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Water Wave MechanicsII-1-i
Chapter 1
EM 1110-2-1100
WATER WAVE MECHANICS
(Part II)1 August 2008 (Change 2)
Table of Contents
Page
II-1-1.Introduction
............................................................II-1-1
II-1-2.Regular Waves
.........................................................II-1-3
a.Introduction
...........................................................II-1-3
b.Definition of wave parameters
.............................................II-1-4
c.Linear wave theory
......................................................II-1-5(1)Introduction.......................................................II-1-5(2)Wave celerity, length, and period.......................................II-1-6(3)The sinusoidal wave profile...........................................II-1-9(4)Some useful functions...............................................II-1-9(5)Local fluid velocities and accelerations.................................II-1-12(6)Water particle displacements.........................................II-1-13(7)Subsurface pressure................................................II-1-21(8)Group velocity....................................................II-1-22(9)Wave energy and power.............................................II-1-26(10)Summary of linear wave theory.......................................II-1-29
d.Nonlinear wave theories
.................................................II-1-30(1)Introduction......................................................II-1-30(2)Stokes finite-amplitude wave theory...................................II-1-32(3)Subsurface pressure................................................II-1-34(4)Maximum wave steepness...........................................II-1-35
e.Other wave theories
....................................................II-1-36(1)Introduction......................................................II-1-36(2)Nonlinear shallow-water wave theories.................................II-1-36(3)Korteweg and de Vries and Boussinesq wave theories.....................II-1-36(4)Cnoidal wave theory................................................II-1-37(5)Solitary wave theory................................................II-1-41(6)Stream-function wave theory.........................................II-1-50(7)Fourier approximation -- Fenton’s theory...............................II-1-50
 f.Wave breaking 
........................................................II-1-56
 g.Validity of wave theories
................................................II-1-56
II-1-3.Irregular Waves
........................................................II-1-59
a.Introduction
..........................................................II-1-59
b.Wave train (wave-by-wave) analysis
.......................................II-1-65(1)Introduction......................................................II-1-65(2)Zero-crossing method...............................................II-1-65(3)Definition of wave parameters........................................II-1-66(4)Significant wave height.............................................II-1-68(5)Short-term random sea state parameters.................................II-1-68(6)Probability distributions for a sea state.................................II-1-70(7)Wave height distribution............................................II-1-74
 
EM 1110-2-1100 (Part II)1 Aug 08 (Change 2)
II-1-iiWater Wave Mechanics
(8)Wave period distribution............................................II-1-75(9)Joint distribution of wave heights and periods............................II-1-76
c.Spectral analysis
.......................................................II-1-77(1)Introduction......................................................II-1-77(2)Description of wave spectral analysis..................................II-1-80(3)Examples of frequency spectra........................................II-1-85(4)Wave spectrum and its parameters.....................................II-1-85(5)Relationship between H
1/3
, H
s
and H
m0
in shallow water....................II-1-88(6)Parametric spectrum models..........................................II-1-88(7)Directional spectra.................................................II-1-93(8)Wave groups and groupiness factors...................................II-1-95(9)Random wave simulation............................................II-1-97(10)Kinematics and dynamics of irregular waves.............................II-1-98
II-1-4. References and Bibliography
............................................II-1-99
II-1-5. Definitions of Symbols
.................................................II-1-116
II-1-6. Acknowledgments
.....................................................II-1-121
 
EM 1110-2-1100 (Part II)1 Aug 08 (Change 2)
Water Wave MechanicsII-1-iii
List of Tables
PageTable II-1-1.Classification of Water Waves.......................................II-1-8Table II-1-2.Boundary Value Problem of Water Wave Theories (Dean 1968)...........II-1-50
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