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    Smart Guide Italy: Grand Tour Rome, Florence, Venice and Naples: Smart Guide Italy, #6
    Smart Guide Italy: Grand Tour Rome, Florence, Venice and Naples: Smart Guide Italy, #6
    Smart Guide Italy: Grand Tour Rome, Florence, Venice and Naples: Smart Guide Italy, #6
    Ebook381 pages5 hours

    Smart Guide Italy: Grand Tour Rome, Florence, Venice and Naples: Smart Guide Italy, #6

    By Alexei Cohen

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    About this ebook

    Smart Guide is the first independent travel publisher to offer digital guides to all of Italy's regions. We also operate a convenient online accommodation service which helps travelers get an insider's perspective on Italy, lower their CO2 impact and save substantially.

    Other titles in the Smart Guide series:
    Rome & Lazio
    Florence & Tuscany
    Milan & Lombardy
    Venice & Veneto
    Naples & Campania
    Turin, Piedmont & Aosta Valley

    LanguageEnglish
    PublisherAlexei Cohen
    Release dateFeb 5, 2012
    ISBN9781465881250
    Smart Guide Italy: Grand Tour Rome, Florence, Venice and Naples: Smart Guide Italy, #6
    Author

    Alexei Cohen

    I fell in love with Italy while watching the movie La Strada in the basement of my university library. Since then I have met and married an Italian, written and edited several guides and enjoyed a lot of pasta, wine and gelato. I live with my family on the outskirts of Rome and cultivate my passion for Italy a little more everyday. Moon Rome, Florence & Venice is my latest book and a result of months of exploration. I look forward to sharing what I have discovered and meeting travelers in Rome to swap stories over a cappuccino.

    Read more from Alexei Cohen

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      Book preview

      Smart Guide Italy - Alexei Cohen

      FOREWARD

      Dear Traveler,

      Congratulations! You are following in the footsteps of poets, painters, students, archaeologists, noblemen and women, adventurers and bon vivants who set out to experience a world of which they had little first hand knowledge. In the early days of the 18th century Grand Tour the journey was long and arduous often involved tutors, guides, translators and even chaperons. It was made by steamship and coal burning trains, in horse drawn carriages and occasionally on foot. But although the means of travel have changed the motivation has not. The curiosity to see ancient monuments and behold Renaissance masterpieces remains strong even in our age of hyper-stimulation. The legendary cities of Rome, Florence, Venice and Naples still hold an intense grip on the traveler’s imagination which can only be satisfied by experiencing them in-person using all the senses.

      Smart Guide is designed to help you get the most from your stay. It highlights all the major monuments and sights of Grand Tour cities and offers practical advice on where to eat, drink and enjoy Italy. We don't just provide great insight though, with Smart Guide Italy B&B you can also find convenient accommodation. Now you can stay in the comfort of an Italian home, get a unique local perspective and save. You’ll find all the options in the accommodations section of your destination city.

      Enjoy the journey!

      Alexei Cohen

      Series Editor

      PLANNING YOUR STAY

      The Grand Tour of old included more than four cities. There were many stops along the way but as most travelers arrived from England, Northern Europe and to a lesser degree the United States they generally began in Northern Italy and gradually worked their way down to Rome or even Naples if they wanted to witness the outer limits of civilization. A tour could last months with some travelers remaining in Italy for years collecting exotic objects, capturing their impressions on paper and letting themselves be inspired.

      Today not everyone has the luxury of taking a month off from their lives to explore Italy and fortunately transportation has made seeing it all much easier. Still a tour isn’t grand if it’s rushed and a minimum of three or better yet four days should be spent exploring each of the destinations. Ideally you will be able to devote two weeks to the venture and give yourself the necessary time to walk through the cities, see their museums, enjoy their unique customs and visit some of the outlying sights. In Rome that could mean taking an afternoon to visit Ostia Antica and in Naples a full day to wander around Pompeii.

      Where you start the tour however is up to you. We’ve started with Rome because it’s the easiest destination to reach and there are many national and low cost carriers that fly there. From the capital high-speed rail service runs up and down the country to Florence and Venice in the north and Naples in the south. Another option would be to fly to Milan, Italy’s second hub, take a train to Venice and then work your way south. You could also rent a car however that eliminates the pleasure of gazing out a train window and admiring Italian landscapes.

      Regarding when to go it’s in your best interest to avoid high season when mass tourism is a distraction and the length of lines multiplies exponentially. As well as being very crowded July and August are also very hot and can make walking tortuous. Major holidays such as Christmas and Easter tend to inundate cities with tourists and pilgrims who make finding accommodation more difficult and expensive. Late spring and early autumn are ideal times for a tour. The weather is good, locals are smiling and the rush to see the Sistine Chapel and Michelangelo’s David is still bearable.

      What To Bring

      The contents of your suitcase depends on the season and length of stay. Beware of overpacking and select comfortable clothing that can easily be mixed and matched. Layers are important in spring and fall when mornings are chilly and temperatures vary throughout the day. A bag with wheels will make getting around airports and to the next hotel easier. Backpacks or handbags are good for storing items you’ll take on daily excursions and should have zippers to dissuade pickpockets. It’s probably best to leave expensive watches at home and travel without any flashy jewelry. A money belt can be useful for storing necessary valuables and cash.

      Some formal clothes may be necessary if you plan on any fine dining or clubbing. Italians generally like to dress up and rarely let their fashion guard down. Flipflops and shorts are fine for the beach but the Swiss Guard won’t permit them inside St. Peter’s. Keep in mind knees and shoulders must be covered when entering religious buildings. Sun glasses are essential during the summer especially if you’ll be doing any driving and baseball hats are useful even if they aren’t often worn by Italians.

      You’ll probably do more walking in Italy than at home and it’s hazardous for your feet to break in a new pair of shoes on cobblestone streets. Bring at least two comfortable pairs especially if you’ll be hiking. If you’re only off for a week it may be useful to buy sample size shampoo, toothpaste, and soap that will keep weight down and cause less damage if they accidentally open. If you do forget something you won’t have a problem finding it in Italy and pharmacies are especially useful for replacing lost toiletries or picking up aspirin. If you take prescription drugs make sure to bring enough and have a copy of the prescription in case you need a refill.

      Most hotels provide hairdryers but if you are staying in a B&B or camping you may want to pack a small one. It should be adaptable to Italy’s 220 voltage. A European plug converter is useful for recharging mp3 players, digital cameras, cellular phones and of course your tablet or e-reader. Adapters can be hard to find in Italy and airports are usually the best place to pick them up. If you’re taking photos the old fashion way stock up on film before you leave as it’s more expensive in Italy. An extra memory card is useful for digital photographers planning on documenting every step of the tour.

      Items like binoculars are helpful for observing the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel, church facades, and Italian wildlife. Pack a pen if you plan on writing any postcards and a notebook for jotting down impressions of hill towns and memories of Italian lunches. Even if you aren’t an artist try sketching the sights or making souvenir rubbings of the ruins you encounter. A good book will help pass the time on long distance train or bus trips or while waiting your turn at the post office.

      You’ll need your passport and a driving license if you plan on renting a car. An international driving permit is not required but it can avoid confusion if you are pulled over. It only costs $15 and is available from any AAA office in the United States and AA office in the UK. Making a copy of vital documents facilitates replacing them should they be lost or stolen. You can also email yourself any important credit card codes or customer service numbers to report stolen cards. Most of all don’t forget to pack your curiosity.

      TOP STOPS

      Rome/Colosseo

      There was only one place to be on a Saturday afternoon in antiquity. Only one place where the bread was free and the spectacle guaranteed. The Colosseo (or Coliseum) was the stage for life and death drama where spectators had a say and affected the course of events with their cheers or jeers. Within these walls gladiators were worshipped like Hollywood stars and tangled with wild animals and each other in epic confrontations.

      Rome/Pantheon

      After nearly 2,000 years the Pantheon barely has a wrinkle. The dome was the widest masonry span anywhere until the New Orleans Superdome was built in 1961. The immense portico entry columns continue to influence architects and are the inspiration for many public buildings around the world.

      Rome/Basilica di San Pietro

      Churches don’t get any bigger than Saint Peter’s but that’s only one reason to visit. The others are Bernini’s colonnades and Michelangelo’s 435-foot cupola. The climb to the top isn’t easy but you can catch your breath while admiring the views below.

      Rome/Appia Antica

      The Queen of roads was built to last and it has. Much of the original paving is still visible minutes from the Circo Massimo where it starts. Along the Appia Antica are remains of power, pleasure, and piety. It now forms the center of a vast park navigable by bus, bike or foot.

      Florence/Duomo

      Imagine the greatest engineering challenge of the 21st century and you get some idea of what the project managers of Santa Maria del Fiore were facing. Fortunately one man had a solution and the result remains outstanding.

      Florence/Baptistery

      They don’t make doors like this anymore. They can’t. The know-how has vanished. Nowadays they send satellites into space. Back in the Renaissance they made Baptistery doors.

      Venice/Grand Canal

      Venice’s main waterway features one ornate palazzo after another. Although you can see parts of the canal from the Ponte degli Scalzi or Rialto bridges, the only way to see it all is on board a vaporetto, water bus that regularly shuttles locals up and down this incredible stretch of Venetian history.

      Venice/San Marco

      It may be a magnate for tourists and pigeons but Venice’s San Marco neighborhood, with Piazza San Marco at its center, took Napoleon’s breath away for a reason. The Basilica San Marco and Palazzo Doge that line the piazza were built to impress and the Gothic architecture that once housed the city’s rulers remains stunning inside and out.

      Naples/Museo Archeologico

      The Museo Archeologico is one of the world’s best archeological museums featuring a comprehensive collection of Greco-Roman artifacts. Spend an afternoon exploring the vast collection of gems, mosaics, frescoes, and ancient Egyptian artifacts.

      Naples/Pompeii

      Pompeii is one of Italy’s most visited attractions. The site however is vast and it’s easy to get intimate with history here. Make sure to save some time to view the beautiful frescoes in the Villa dei Misteri.

      ROME

      Rome isn't a single city. It's many cities in one and walking the cobblestone streets of the historic center is like entering a time machine where ancient ruins mix with Middle Age neighborhoods, and Renaissance piazzas flirt with Baroque fountains. From the terraces of Villa Borghese the collage of domes and bell towers that have been constructed over the centuries seems infinite. There are over 300 churches none of which were built in a day. Diving into this maze of history can be daunting and the secret is not to try to see it all or even pretend that you can.

      The city's two and half million residents seem unfazed by the beauty. They're too busy slaloming through traffic or enjoying an afternoon espresso to notice the Colosseo or Fontana di Trevi. What matters is a good meal and that trattoria on the Via Appia that serves the best cacia pepe (cheese and pepper pasta) in town. Small talk revolves around food rather than the weather which is generally sunny. November is the only exception and a profitable month for immigrants selling umbrellas outside subway stations. Even rain doesn't slow the mopeds down and Piazza Venezia remains hazardous to pedestrians 365 days a year. Clear blue skies return in time for Christmas when shoppers huddle around department store windows along the Corso and super chic boutiques of Via Condotti.

      Globalization hasn't put a dent in Rome's age old routines. Shops close at one o'clock, the Pope blesses pilgrims in St. Peters square on Sundays at eleven a.m., and the daily market in Campo dei Fiori is still going strong. Artichokes appear in Spring, peaches in Summer, and grapes in Autumn. The wrinkled faces behind the stalls say more with their hands than they could ever say with words. Thumb pressed to forefinger and index means what are you doing? It doesn't take long to learn their sign language and order pizza or a cappuccino with a single gesture.

      Italy's capital and largest city is laid back compared to Milan where finance and fashion are king. There's always time to enjoy an aperitivo after work before facing the evening rush hour. With only two subway lines congestion is guaranteed but work on a third and fourth line are underway and will eventually speed up getting to the stadium in time to see Rome's football teams in action. Half of all the graffitti on city walls is sprayed by fans denigrating their rivals. Romans are more interested in getting a good night's sleep than staying up all night and restaurants outnumber bars or clubs. The best entertainment is sitting in a piazza gazing at the architecture and trying to guess what century your in.

      It's easy to focus on Rome and forget there is a region outside of the city. Although Lazio is often overlooked that doesn't mean there’s nothing to see. Both nature and culture compete for attention and provide the key to understanding Rome. For it's in Northern Lazio that the Etruscans reigned while Rome was still a backwater. The tombs of Cerveteri offer insight into this civilization, which was in many ways ahead of its time. The volcanic lakes glimpsed on the approach towards Leonardo Da Vinci airport are the sight of idyllic towns and provide a pleasant break from the pace of the capital. Further south are some of the areas cleanest beaches and a small archipelago off the coast that is a good introduction to Italy’s many islands.

      History

      Rome didn't start out as the eternal city. It started out as a quite place near a river with a few hills. It was an attractive spot for Iron Age settlers searching for food and safety. The first buildings were not the marble and travertine ruins of the Forum but timber huts on the Palatino. Time passed, numbers grew, tribes merged and before anyone knew it the area was thriving.

      The first centuries were influenced by the Etruscans who occupied the area of Northern Lazio and ruled the town until 509 b.c. when they were expelled and a Republic was founded. The next 500 years saw the steady growth of the city. One-by-one the peoples of the Italian peninsula were conquered or absorbed before attention was turned overseas. It was during this period that Rome's first roads were built, the Punic Wars were waged and won against Carthage, and Spartacus’ rebellion nearly changed the course of history.

      Cesare's assassination in 44 b.c. marked the beginning of a new age and it took 17 years of civil war before his adopted son Augusto eliminated the competition and declared himself emperor of Rome. The Empire increased the city's growth both in territory and splendor. The brick of the Republican age was replaced with marble and the city took on new dimensions. Subsequent emperors used architecture to influence public opinion and insured a legacy, which has survived up to this day.

      No empire is eternal however and invading Goths and Vandals put an end to 1,200 years of glory in the 5th century a.d. The centuries that followed marked a drastic decline in population and prestige. Even the Papacy could do little to save the city from feuding families and recurring invasions. The city had to wait until the 16th century a.d. and the ideals of the Renaissance to rediscover itself. Popes and aristocrats began to recognize the city's potential and hired artists and architects to build churches and palaces. It was the beginning of a rebirth, which has continued to the present day.

      SIGHTS

      Rome isn’t easily divided into neighborhoods. There is no east side or west side, no left bank or right bank with distinct characteristics. Sights are scattered throughout a center where antiquity mixes with Renaissance, Baroque, modern and more. Roman ruins are concentrated in the Fori (Forums) but temples are standing in the Jewish ghetto along the Tiber River and near Piazza Navona. Via del Corso is the main thoroughfare leading to the Tridente, home to the Fontana di Trevi, Piazza di Spagna, as well as the city’s most exclusive boutiques. Above the Spanish Steps is Villa Borghese

      from where Rome’s church domes can best be observed. Across the rooftops is St. Peter’s and to the left is Campo dei Fiori that transforms from a market during the day into one of Rome’s liveliest squares at night. From there it’s only a short walk to the narrow medieval streets of Trastevere on the other side of the Tiber. Outside the Aurelian walls that once encircled the city are Via Appia Antica and a glimpse of Roman countryside. The utopian neighborhood of EUR, with its lake and symmetrical buildings, lies to the south while the 2,000-year-old town of Ostia Antica awaits near the sea.

      Walking the cobblestone streets of Rome’s historic center is like entering a time machine where ancient ruins combine with Middle Age neighborhoods, and Renaissance piazzas flirt with Baroque fountains. From the terraces of Villa Borghese, the collage of domes and bell towers that have appeared over the centuries seems infinite. Diving

      into this maze of historic sights can be daunting and the secret is not to try to see it all or even pretend that you can.

      Some of the best activities in Rome can be enjoyed at no cost and don’t require much planning. Tossing coins into the Fontana di Trevi or hanging out on the Spanish Steps are free and can be done 24 hours

      a day. There are only a few streets in Rome’s centro storico (historic center) that are actually straight and it’s not uncommon for locals to get lost. That’s actually part of the fun and often more rewarding than struggling to find your location with gps or a map. Signs aren’t that helpful (except to major sights) and there’s always a constant

      flow of travelers between Piazza Navona and the Pantheon. Keeping an eye out for landmarks such as the enormous Vittorio Emanuele monument in the center and the Tiber River that snakes its way through the city are helpful for staying on track.

      FORUMS, PALATINO AND CAPITOLINO

      The Forum is where it all happened. For nearly one thousand years this narrow stretch of former swamp and the adjacent hills was the center of the Western world. Here in the basilicas, temples, and stadiums deals were truck, senates convened, masses met, and triumphs displayed. Where to start is a trick question but an overview of the entire sight is a good beginning. From the Capitolino the entire Forum stretches out before you like a postcard from history that never ceases to astound. Everywhere are hints of splendor and power, the physical reminders of a civilization that has had a lasting impact.

      The main route into the Forum is the Via Sacra from which the Arco di Settimio Severo, the Curia, the Tempio di Venere, and more recent churches, are visible. For centuries the Forum was covered by earth and it was only in the 17th century that Popes and archeologists began to uncover the area in search of antiquity much of which is now preserved within the Museo Capitolino.

      At the beginning of the Via Sacra is the Colosseo, another good starting point for exploring the area. Along the Via dei Fori Imperiali, which cuts the Forum in two, are the Imperial Forums built by a succession of emperors in the hope of preserving their names for posterity. They succeeded and the remains of Trajan’s Markets and Column are testimony to Roman ambition.

      Anyone who was anyone in antiquity lived on the nearby Palatino hill. It was a short walk from the Forum and provided a prime view of the Circo Massimo where chariot races were regularly held. This is where emperors slept starting with Augusto who was born on the hill and where legend has it a she-wolf suckled Romolo and Remo, the founders of the city.

      Colosseo

      Anfiteatro Flavio, better known as the Colosseo or Colosseum (Piazza del Colosseo, tel. 06/774-0091, Mon.-Sat. 9 a.m.-6:15 p.m., Sun. 9 a.m.-1 p.m., €9 combined with Palatino) was ancient Rome’s largest amphitheater and where Romans came to be entertained. It is as impressive today as it must have been when it was inaugurated in a.d. 80 with 100 consecutive days of festivities. Ironically, Flavio died before his stadium was completed and his son Tito used the opening ceremonies as a way to improve his sagging popularity. Within its arches over 50,000 citizens regularly flocked to witness the entertainment of the day. Remarkably it took only eight years from conception to completion and has survived regular pillaging by generations of builders looking for a convenient source of stone. Its steady restoration began in the 19th century when pioneer archeologists and the Catholic Church began to recognize its historical significance. It was only in 1875 for instance that the underground service passages were discovered.

      Today the Colosseo teems with visitors and those hoping to make a euro off the masses. It costs €5 to pose with one of the modern-day gladiators circling the area and slightly more for a guided tour. Lines to see the interior which, served as a cow pasture in the Middle Ages and once housed a barbershop, are long. Roma Pass (€25) allows quick access as well as transport and discounts to other museums. It's worth making early morning and evening visits when crowds thin and the stadium’s travertine surface takes on different tones.

      The Coloseo can be reached quickly via the Metro B stop of the same name but makes more of an impression when approached from a distance along Via dei Fori Imperiali.

      Three Arches

      Whenever a consul, general or emperor obtained a significant victory it was customary to celebrate a triumph. These could last weeks and were often accompanied by vows to build temples, libraries, or forums. Some edifices such as columns and arches also served as propaganda to remind citizens of an emperor’s prowess. The Arco di Constantino (Between Via di San Gregorio and Piazza del Colosseo) commemorates a victory over rival Maxentius at the Ponte Milvio in 312 b.c. and incorporates sculptures plundered from other monuments. It spanned the Via Triumphalis where military processions once passed and is now protected from overeager sightseers by an iron fence. Proximity to the Colosseo makes it appear small but stand close up and its imposing stature becomes apparent.

      Two other arches remain standing in the Forum. The Arco di Tito (Via Sacra, tel. 06/699-0110) was built by the Roman Senate to honor victories over the Jews. If you scan the sculptured relief carefully you’ll spot the menorah and other spoils Tito brought back from Jerusalem. The Arco di Settimio Severo (Via Sacra) was built to celebrate Emporer Severo’s 10th year in power. Above it there once rested a chariot pulled by four bronze horses. It’s in excellent condition and provides a welcome bit of shade on hot summer days.

      Foro Romano

      Foro Romano (Roman Forum) (Via dei Fori Imperiali, tel. 06/3996-7700, daily 9 a.m.-1 hour before sunset, €12) was the center of ancient Rome and the place where all roads led to. It lies on both sides of the Via dei Fori Imperiali in the shadow of the Colosseo. The area is flat and can best be observed from the Palatino and Capitolino hills nearby. The highest concentration of Rome’s archeological treasures are located here and there are several entrances to the sight.

      This was the Manhattan of the ancient world. It began as a chaotic mix of food stalls, temples, and civic buildings, and was gradually replaced by high-rise basilicas and monuments under the Empire. Subsequent leaders did their best to out-do-themselves in a constant series of renovation and building projects. As land was scarce they were forced to lay their foundations in the area now known as the Fori Imperiali (Imperial Forum). Cesare, Augusto, Traiano, and Constantino all immortalized themselves here.

      What remains may look like a marble junkyard but all it takes is a little imagination to recreate the magnificence which once existed. If you want to see a scaled-down model of the entire ancient city visit Museo della Civilta Romana (EUR, Piazza G. Agnelli 10, tel. 06/592-6135, www.museociviltaromana.it, Tues.-Sun. 9am-2pm, €6.50). You can also watch a 5D reconstruction of the forum at the Time Elevator Cinema (Via Santissimi Apostoli 20, tel. 06/9774-6243, daily 10:30am-7:30pm, €12).

      The Curia is where the Roman Senate once met and lies at the northwestern edge of the Roman Forum. It’s a faithful reconstruction of the building begun by Cesare after a fire destroyed its predecessor and was completed by his adopted son in a.d. 29. The replica is based on Diocleziano’s plans and although the original bronze doors were moved to the Basilica of San Giovanni in Laterano the marble has remained and illustrates daily life during Traiano’s dynasty. It’s a good place to see what the Forum was like in its heyday and many visitors miss the mosaics that are under their feet.

      Cesare revolutionized the Forum, which had become cramped and overcrowded. First he had Cicerone (Cicero) purchase land for a small fortune then on the battlefield of Pharsalus in 48 b.c. he vowed to build the Tempio di Venere. What was initially intended as a simple addition soon laid the pattern for the Fori Imperiali which are across the street from the Curia.

      Foro Augusto (Forum of Augustus) is adjacent to Cesare’s and was built to mark the defeat of his stepfather’s assassins Bruto and Cassio. The centerpiece is a temple dedicated to Mars the Avenger of which a short flight of stairs and four Corinthian columns are still visible. Nearby is the high wall

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