Now take the fuselage and cement the wing inits place, cutting the trailing edge at the center andcementing it flush to the bottom of the fuselage lowerlongeron. Do the same with the leading edge and themiddle main spar, at the same time making sure thatthe wing tips have four degrees of dihedral in them.The dihedral should be 1-1/8" at each wing tip. Next,cement in the few extra pieces of light balsa betweenthe wing ribs and the fuselage, as shown in thephotos. Glue two pieces of balsa 1/8" x 1/16" x 5 and3/8" long at the landing gear rib.
The elevator is constructed the same way asthe wing. Follow the dimensions on the drawing. Takea piece of fine silk thread and split it three ways. Splitseveral yards of this thread in this way and cementthe thread lines running along the wing, rudder andelevator. Pull these lines fairly tight, watching carefullythat the various surfaces are not warped in tighteningand cementing. These lines with the right tension helpto prevent the film surfaces from sticking together onthe ship. The wing has four of the lines running alongthe top ribs and three along the lower ribs; theelevator has two on the top and two on the bottomsurface.
The scale block measures 8-1/8" x 3/8" x 5/8".If using a higher pitched propeller remember that it willturn slower than a lower pitched propeller on the samepower. The finished prop blades should taper from3/32" at the hub to 1/32" at the tip. The blades may bemade a little thinner by cutting them out of a hardergrade of wood.
Wing and Landing Gear Struts
These struts are cut out of 1/16" sheet wood.All are 1/4" wide. The front wing struts are 2-1/8" long.Rear ones are 2-1/4" in length. The two landing gearstruts are 4-1/16" long. Sand all struts with finesandpaper. The front wing struts are glued later aboutone inch from the leading edge of the wing on the ribthat the landing gear is glued to. The rear ones are1-1/4" from the trailing edge of the wing. Examinephotographs for details in placing.
At first glance it would seem that it is difficult tocover this ship with film. It's not, though, once one isused to handling microfilm. Take the body with thewing attached to it and prepare to cover the body first.Lest we forget, have plenty of film sheets on hand.Lay a sheet of film out horizontally suspendedbetween two chair backs.. Use a soft wide brush toapply a coating of water to the first side of the body.Brush this water or saliva from the nose to the tip ofthe rudder. Don't spare the water for it will evaporatelater. Cut a small hole in the sheet of film slightlylarger than the wing section. Being careful, slide theuncovered wing half down through this opening andlay the body on the film. Using a red-hot wire, slice outthe top section of the film and while cutting around thebody side roll the body towards the uncut film andmake sure it has stuck to the body all the way around.At least one-half of the body can be covered in thisway.Repeat the procedure to cover the other bodyside. If a few openings or holes are present they maybe covered with film patches. The secret of covering around or oval fuselage with film is in rolling the wetbody over the film slowly and at the same time, whilecutting the edges with the iron, noting that the tensionis not too great in stretching the film. For if it is, thefilm sheet will split and then it would be better to startover again if a very neat ship is desired. All in all, it's acase of knowing how to control the "shake in one'snerves" to go with the film operation.When the body and the rudder is completelycovered start the wing. Cover the bottom of the wingusing a sheet slightly longer than the wing span andwider than the width or chord. Moisten the bottom ofthe wing and place it on this film sheet. Cut out with ahot wire as was done on the fuselage. Cover the topsection of the wing in halves, one-half at a time,placing the film as close to the body as possible. Nextcement the two elevator halves to the fuselage. Coverthe top and bottom of both with film.Then cement the landing gear, all struts inplace and the wing wires which are thread. And thereis a beauty of a model ready for flying. Go to it!
Flying the Model
This ship should weigh close to three tenths ofan ounce minus the rubber motor. With the motor,which is four strands of 3/32" flat brown rubber, aboutfour-tenths of an ounce. Test the ship with a short,lighter motor first. When it takes off it will tend to turnin a sharp circle with the prop torque; that is, towardthe left. Straighten out the circle a bit by warping thetrailing edge of the left wing down and turning therudder about one-eighth of an inch toward the right. Ifthe model tends to be tail heavy add a small amountof clay in the nose block until it is balanced correctly.The center of gravity on the model should come aboutthree inches back of the leading edge of the wingclose to the bottom of the fuselage. Glide the shipabout six inches from the floor and if the glide iscorrect wind the motor about three hundred turns for atest flight. The writer's model consistently turned inflights from one to two minutes. A high time of two