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Trails & Techno_Text_December 23

Trails & Techno_Text_December 23

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Published by Patrick Archer
Trails and Techno: A South American Odyssey is the tale of two young Americans dodging Corporate America long enough for a 30-day, 120-beats-per-minute journey through Argentina, Chile, Boliva and Peru.

http://trailsandtechno.com
Trails and Techno: A South American Odyssey is the tale of two young Americans dodging Corporate America long enough for a 30-day, 120-beats-per-minute journey through Argentina, Chile, Boliva and Peru.

http://trailsandtechno.com

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Published by: Patrick Archer on Jan 18, 2009
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial

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05/10/2014

 
Edgar picked us up on
Calle Jerusalén
in front of the
Nuñez 
promptly at 5:00 for a twenty-minute ride to the airport. Despite having shuttledlocals and tourists around town all night, he greeted us with the samecheerful disposition that had drawn us to his taxi last night. The morningdrive gave us the opportunity to see
la segunda ciudad más importante del Perú
in broad daylight. Not wanting us to leave his hometown withoutsome sense of 
La Ciudad Blanca
’s history or beauty, Edgar drove pastseveral historical sites and explained their significance. In thedistance, we could see the sun rising abovethe peaks of three volcanoes: the Chachani,the Pichu Picchu and the Misti.Edgar explained that the Spaniardsfounded Arequipa in the 1540s and that many of her colonial buildings were built using 
 piedra de sillar 
from thesurrounding volcanoes. Some of the temples, especially the
Iglesia de laCompañia
and the
 Monasterio de Santa Catalina
, were as impressive asthey were old. We arrived at the airport minutes later and were the first two peoplein line at the
 AeroPeru
counter, strictly adhering to that airline’s policy that passengers arrive two hours ahead of their scheduled departure time.The wait was another long one as the six-man
 AeroPeru
 
tripulación
didn’tshuffle in until around 7:00. After check-in, we hit the lone concoursegift shop in hopes of a little breakfast and perhaps an
I Survived A Night in Arequipa
T-shirt. Unfortunately, they were fresh out of souvenir threadsand the morning fare did not look overly appetizing. Ditto for the warm beverages in the drink cooler:
InkaKola, Coca-Cola
and
 jugo de naranja
.Finding a refrigerated beverage in Perú, or just ice for that matter, is a tall order dueto the country’s sky-high utility rates andlow per capita incomes.
141
 
lunes23 de diciembreArequipa a Cusco, Perú
x
D L M M J D L M M J D L M M J D L M M J D L M M J V V V V V
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 
 
8 9 10 11 12 13 14 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 
Destino:CuscoModo: Avión y TaxiDistancia:623 kilómetros
x
 
sentir como las huevas:to feel horrible.mate de coca:Strong tea brewed with cocaleaves from the Peruvian highlands. Thisbeverage can be easily prepared using smalltea bags that are sold in most Peruvian
kioskos 
and
supermercados 
.residencia:boarding house, residence, lodge
 After an hour’s wait in the
salón de desembarque 
, we boarded the flight toCusco. On the way out to the tarmac, wecaught a glimpse of a large blue sign bidding
Feliz Viaj
to all departing passengers. TheSpanish farewell lost a little something inthe English translation, but we stillappreciated the send-off sentiment.During the course of the flight, we went from Arequipas arid terrainat 2,300 meters above sea level to more rolling, rocky terrain enshroudedin fog at 3,500 meters. The requisite
 AeroPeru
lemon drop gave us a fullday’s supply of vitamin C, but the citrus zing would not begin to prepareus for the sudden change in altitude. Our elevated status would becomeevident the second that we emerged from the cozy confines of thepressurized cabin.
!
142
Standing on the gusty tarmac of Cusco’s
 Aeropuerto Velasco Astete 
, we both looked and felt totally 
como las huevas.
In fact, the last time thatI could remember feeling this D.O.A. (Drained On Arrival) was on thetrain platform last Thursday morning in Santiago.Inside the Cusco terminal, the tourist hustlers were kept at bay thanksto a city ordinance that requires them to stand behind counters: a practicethat should be adopted in tourist traps worldwide. Andy went to one of the counters to ask about a placeto stay while I was drawn to thesweet aroma wafting from a
 Mate de Coca
stand. Though I was already familiar with the
Cusco InternationalLeaving ArequipaApurimac Valley
 2 2 2 2 2,,,,, 30 30 30 30 300 0 0 0 0 etetetetetersersersersers 3,0 3,0 3,0 3,0 3,0000000 0 0 0 0 etetetetetersersersersers 3,50 3,50 3,50 3,50 3,500 0 0 0 0 etetetetetersersersersers
Changes in AlChanges in AlChanges in AlChanges in AlChanges in Al titude  titude  titude  titude  titude 
 
143
magical properties of 
 yerba mate 
, the
mate de coca
elixir was new to me. I quickly deciphered the large,cardboard placard on the
mate 
bar which hadbeen penned to assuage the minds and stomachsof gringos like me. “GOOD TO THE ALTITUD(sic)! ” was written in large block letters. Without hesitation, I ordered up a tall herby oneand chugged it on the spot.
 Andy did the same and,miraculously, we both felt like a hundred pesos.
Brains and veins fortified with warm
mate 
, we walked outside andhailed a cab into town for ten
nuevos soles 
. Thedriver was going to take us to three spots, but we were instantly sold on the second jointupon arrival. The
Residencia Los Marqueses 
wasan enclosed two-story stone fortress with a beautiful courtyard, brick archways and hand-carved wood railings. The second-story railings wereadorned with potted plants and asmattering of silver and gold Christmasdecorations.We checked in at 8:30. The owner was a robust, matronly type named Lida. After giving us our key, she served us afull breakfast. She was a lovely woman who told us that the hostel, with its two-meter thick walls, dated back to thesixteenth century.
Señora Lida
runs thehostel with the aid of her twenty-oneadopted children: sixteen boys and fivegirls. The dining room was right nextdoor to our bedroom, so the breakfast-to- bed commute was a short one. Theroom had old hardwood floors and wassimply decorated with two beds, nightstands, and a wicker rocking chair. Thebeds were softer than Amazonquicksand, and we both slept soundly until noon.
LosResidencia Marqueses

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