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fashion
storing tips
Hanging
Always pick-up your vintage piece by the hanger and invest in padded hangers or well-shaped wooden hangers. Protect delicate designs with cotton dust covers.
Cleaning
Source a specialist dry cleaner who will be sympathetic to the delicate nature of many vintage fabrics. Sew cotton dress shields into sleeved dresses and tops to prolong the garments life and protect against perspiration.
Pressing
A steamer is a good investment for gently removing creases and refreshing items.
Displaying
Vintage mannequins not only look fabulous; they are also great for displaying vintage nds. Look for Stockman or Kennett & Lindsell mannequins on eBay or at www.vintagestylemannequins.co.uk.
A selection of shoes from Bambah on Jumeirah Beach Road in Dubai. Amy Leang / The National
Cataloguing
fashion, the popularity of certain eras is directly inuenced by developments in the media, music and art worlds. While TV programmes such as Sex and the City introduced a wide audience to serious designer bling and vertiginous Jimmy Choos, it is the recent popularity of Mad Men, set in the 1950s and 1960s, that has really captured peoples imagination and provoked many designers, including Prada and Marc Jacobs, to create collections paying homage to the shows era. The main female characters, Betty Draper and Joan Harris, epitomise ladylike glamour and have singlehandedly consolidated the demand for retro glamour from both modern and vintage collections. As Carmen Haid, the director of the pioneering online vintage retailer Atelier-Mayer (www.atelier-mayer.com) conrms: I sold many dresses to clients inspired by Mad Men and I can imagine that Madonnas up-andcoming Wallis Simpson movie, WE, will create another vintage trend. Yet while vintage fashion, which is traditionally defined as being pieces that are at least 25 years old, can be readily sourced in Europe, America and Tokyo, it has only just started making its mark signicantly in the UAE, with a handful of retailers, such as Bambah (www. bambah.com, opening next week on Jumeirah Beach Road) and The Vintage Parlour, leading the way. Id been collecting vintage fashion for almost seven years before deciding to open a boutique in Dubai, reveals Maha Abdul Rasheed of Bambah, whose stock includes Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin, Christian Dior and Nina Ricci finds. My vintage pieces are sourced from all over the world and every piece has a story. With the revival of timeless vintage, there is definitely potential for this to expand in the UAE within a couple of years, which is something I am looking forward to. Over in Abu Dhabi, the Australian vintage aficionado Judith Hanley opened Vintage Parlour (www.myvintageparlour.com) last year, and her extensive collection is available to clients at her home-meetsshowroom by appointment. Celebrity advocates of vintage, such as Kate Moss and Chlo Sevigny, exert a signicant inuence on the fashion philosophies of women today, says Hanley, proving that vintage fashion is accessible, and most importantly, contemporarily relevant. Collaborating with a select group of international collectors and trusted authorities on vintage, her collection of mint or near-mint frocks range from delicate Edwardian lace and silk nightwear, through antique Japanese kimonos, to 1960s cocktail dresses although, she adds, she has a penchant for the elongated draped gowns pioneered by Madeleine Vionnet, and Ive sourced a beautiful 1930s Lucien Lelong silk crpe couture gown for my wedding. Atelier-Mayer, which recently opened a small showroom in Londons chi-chi Connaught Village, was quick to recognise the potential for vintage sales in the region and organised a trunk show at the Royal Mirage Hotel in Dubai last year an interesting test for the market. Everybody who came loved the pieces, especially the big-name labels, such as Chanel and Christian Dior. Vintage accessories were also popular, particularly with women who had never shopped vintage before, remarks Haid. Another source for high-end buys are the international auction houses specialising in vintage fashion. Kerry Taylor, of Kerry Taylor Auctions (www.kerrytaylorauctions. com) at Sothebys, is a leading authority. The next sale, scheduled for March, features a line-up of covetable pieces including a white lace gown made by Catherine Walker for Princess Diana in the 1980s. According to Taylor, who regularly ships vintage garments to overseas clients, wearing vintage makes a woman stand out. Theres so much fashion on the high street that all looks the same and vintage is the ultimate in re-using and recycling it is extremely green. Dubais multi-brand boutiques such as S*uce, in the Village Mall, and Valleydez, at Wa, have tapped into the vintage zeitgeist. Like the Paris concept store Merci and the online phenomenon Net-a-Porter, Valleydez is following in S*uces footsteps and adding vintage pieces to its rails this month. Our customers come to Valleydez because of the hand-selected range of clothes that they cant nd anywhere else in the UAE, says the
If you are a serious collector you may want to consider cataloguing and photographing your vintage treasures digitally or using simple index cards.
A 1958 dress by Jean Desss, left, and a 1970 Balmain Couture gown from William Vintage.
shop manager, Cherry Cumberland. Theyre after unique brands and cutting-edge fashion and our vintage range, sourced in Paris and London, will offer the best of both worlds. Its not just those looking for an alternative to the malls that seek out vintage fashion: todays leading designers are often seen perusing the rails in international vintage stores, such as Didier Ludot (www.didierludot.fr) in Paris, Virginia (+44 (0)20 7727 9908) in London, and markets such as Camden and Saint-Ouen in search of inspiration. Understanding the considerable influence past designs have on modern creations, Hanley also offers access to her collection as a learning resource for fashion designers and students in the UAE. Vintage Parlours archives are comprehensive and inspiring, as they chronicle the iconic silhouettes from the 1900s to 1970s, she explains. One of my primary objectives is for my collections to be an inspiration-source for both emerging and established UAEbased designers. Quality vintage holds an elusive je ne se quoi, making it just as desirable today as in its prime.
Sizing
buying tips
Vintage fashion is often smaller than modern standards as it often pre-dates size standardisation introduced in the late 1950s. Dont be put o by a label or the lack of one; always try on pieces and keep a note of your measurements.
tears can often be invisibly mended. Also check zips, buttons and buttonholes. Lost buttons can be replaced with vintage buttons and zips can also be replaced depending on the structure of the fabric surrounding the original zip. Only you can determine if the style, condition and price are right for you.
Labels
Keep an eye out for collectable labels such as the major couturiers and pioneering designers including Ossie Clarke, Mary Quant and Halston. Designer labels have changed over the years and there are also a lot of fakes out there so you need to be savvy. Check out the online Vintage Fashion Guild Label Resource at www. vintagefashionguild.org.
Price
It is diicult to set a xed price on vintage fashion as you are often investing in one-o pieces. Get familiar with the eras and designers you are most interested in and look online for an idea of street value.
Alterations
Body shapes and silhouettes have changed over the years, so you may want to tweak the design of your vintage nds to ensure they t perfectly. Many vintage retailers oer this service. If you have bought vintage privately or at a fair and youre not condent doing the alterations yourself, cultivate a good seamstress with a feel for vintage fabrics.