In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

The stuff of the insides of the thing youre reading

03. Prolog 06. Preassembly 8-9 Parts Diagram 13. Building the beast 34. Painting the beast 46. Epilog

Acronyms used in this manual GW-Games Workshop FW-Forge World

IP-Intellectual Property

Hubble Telescope Images courtesy of NASA and the Space Telescope Science Institute under free use for public domain. Visit http://hubble.nasa.gov/ and http://www.stsci.edu/resources/ for more information. All other images are copyright 2008 Atom Kahut, Squid Brain Productions. This work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 United States License. To view a copy of this license, visit http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/us/ or send a letter to Creative Commons, 171 Second Street, Suite 300, San Francisco, California, 94105, USA.

In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Mon Historie
Welcome to the second installment of the Jabbas Guide to Building Stuff series. I started my foray into Games Workshops miniatures in the early nineties. Epic! Space Marines changed my hobby life. On the cover you can see my first Titan. Not much has changed since that time. Ive painted over 10 other miniatures! My Warhammer 40K army now consists of more than 10,000 points of Blood Angle badness and one Warhound Titan. I had plans to pickup a Thunderhawk Gunship and a Mars pattern Warhound Titan at the upcoming Games Day. However the recent Forge World newsletter with the sneak peak of the Reaver Titan has changed my mind. Maybe Ill cover that build at a later date I started thinking about making this manual after I opened the box and saw that there were no instructions. But alas I am lazy and often think great ideas which never see the light of day. But the good guys at http://www.miniwargaming.com/ decided to have a painting tutorial competition. This really set in motion me getting off my ass to actually put this together. So if you dont like it, blame them. If you do like it, give me all the credit and go buy stuff from them! Normally my instruction manuals contain photography and iconography lifted from the websites and books (in addition to my own photography). Most IP law is complete and utter bullshit. I dont make any money from what I do, I dont even get widespread recognition like they alleged of people who use copy written material. If Im adding to the content-in fact filling the void left by lack of content, then they should be thanking me. But since Im creating this with the added intention of contest submission-I have stayed legal, this time. Feel free to send this to your friends, take it to Kinkos and print out a full color version. And if you work at Games Workshop or Forge World-you should sneak a copy of this into every Titan box you sell. Regards, Jabbakahut

Prolog

I love Space Marines, and theres nothing wrong with that. Theyre awesome beyond compare. Some people dont understand the reason for the Apocalypse compendium. But for those who started playing Epic Space Marines and then moved to 40K-it has been a dream a long time coming. Ive wanted to field a Epic sized 40K scale army since I first purchase the original Rogue Trader book in 91. Some purists may feel as though Im slighting the Mechanium or Imperial Guard by including a Titan in my Space Marine army. Screw them! The way I see it, the Adeptus Mechanicus has an intimate relationship with the Angels of Death. Techmarines spend year of their training in the Forges on Mars. And it is well within reason for a Chapter to request assistance from the Adeptus Titanicus in handling of extreme situations (during the crusades the ships of the Adeptus Legiones included Titan drop ships).

Once I was convinced of the fluff reason to include this awesome presence in my army, and there were rules which would make it possible (thank-you Apocalypse)-I headed up to the nearest Battle Bunker in Glen Burnie, Maryland. I dropped an insane amount of money and drove home.

In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Prolog
In interest of full disclosure I must admit that Ive never really played 40K. I love the models and the fluff, just havent found a group to play with yet (almost 20 years now, I promise Ill play one of these days). Currently about 55% of my army is out of the box, 80% of that is assembled. About 15% of that has been primed. And only 11 actual models have made it to completion (the last one complete over a decade ago). Along the way Ive painted about a dozen or so other models. So what right do I have to create a painting & modeling guide? Over the years Ive dabbled in just about every creative art. I believe artistry is a skill in itself. I have background in painting of various mediums, drawing, graphic design, and scratch built construction of many different project. The difference between my last 40K miniature and this one are worlds apart. The studying and participation in various art forms will make all other projects that much better.

My kitchen doesnt have food, it has Space Marines.

Youre not going to get Golden Daemon tips in this guide. Im far from a master painter (dare I say Im barely an amateur). But with miniatures Ive learned that you need to be happy with what you can do and work on improving it. If you want a show quality piece, just keep practicing, and practicing, and practicing (or visit the guys at http://www.bluetablepainting.com/). I own every GW hobby book ever produced and I fervorently read eavy metal back in the day. I really recommend checking out the different modeling sections at the http://us.gamesworkshop.com/ website. Ill try to fill in the techniques I used throughout this manual, but Im assuming that you have a basic grasp on modeling to begin with.

Ive got a stupid amount of modeling tools. I went over the basics in my first guide (which can be downloaded or viewed here http://www.scribd.com/doc/2058395/ JGTBS). Again Ill have to assume you have the basic tools at hand. The more you have, and the more specialized they are-the easier things will be. But you dont need to have much. The basics will suffice; hobby knife, hobby saw, sand paper, etc. Dont buy tools from game manufactures. Games Workshop makes great models, but not so great over-charged tools. I love http://www.micromark.com/ -their prices are fair and the selection is phenomenal.

Preassembly

The box is huge and you feel proud walking out with it. It is a conspicuously nondescript box. The only indication that this isnt a box of porno is a small sticker on the side. Its nearly the size of the Space Marine Battle Company box set, but not nearly as pretty. I really wish this came in a box worthier of its contents; there are some great photos on the FW website which they could have used. With the box open, you realize that its only this big due to the packing material. And I must admit that they do a pretty good job of packing everything. I presume this is mainly for those who receive them shipped. Once the pieces are stripped of their cushioning they occupy about the same space as a Land Raider box.

Everything about the Warhound is impressive. The Plasma blaster is as long as a Land Raider. I half considered just mounting it on one! How awesome would that Land Raider variant be? Along side another which sports the Mega Bolter! But that may be a waste of money. So I decided to build the Titan instead.

In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Preassembly
You need a lot of space for this project. I live in a 400sqft one bedroom apartment. My living room is a computer room, and the tiny adjacent kitchen acts as my shop. VERY IMPORTANT! Check to see you have all the pieces. I would even suggest doing this before you drop the cash in the store. Getting replacement pieces is beyond difficult (see the last section of this book).

Once all the pieces were free-I spread them out based on approximately where they might end up. I had to guess. Why? Because this thing has no instructions! The folks at the Battle Bunker were able to include a 2 page pamphlet on the topic. The Forge World website isnt the easiest to navigate, but you can find the instructions at www.forgeworld.co.uk/warhound.pdf I only call them instructions in the loosest sense. Its more like a tip guide. Gives you some pointers here and there, but nothing to really help you with the monumental task which you are about to undertake (and Ive skipped enough steps in this guide to disqualify it from being a manual).

Rear body piece (which attaches to the hips) Rear carapace vent Carapace wing

Exhaust pipes (not shown)

Head assembly

Plasma Blastgun

Carapace wing servitors

Interior head details Interior body details

Body elevator

Rear toe and ankle joint Ankle pistons Ankle socket Toe knuckle (different from rear knuckle) Knuckle pistons

Toe piston Middle toe (longer one) Right & left toes

In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Parts Diagram
Main body piece Carapace wing Rear carapace vent Vulcan Mega Bolter Void shield projectors Rubber hose Interior lights? (I put one on the outside at the rear of the Titan, the other went to the Hose fittings

Body top vent/engine assembly (interior, exterior & servitor cover hatches)

Hips/cod armor

Hip pistons

Thigh & greaves

Hip/leg ball joint Hips

Knee

Lower leg greaves

Lower leg with ball joint Knee pistons (I dont remember what the crossed out ones were for. I was missing one set of pistons-I cant for the life of me figure what happened to these other unknown pieces). Plasma chambers (I got 8 for some reason) Hose fitting fixture mounts (attach to weapons) Main body access

I can only guess that they presume you will figure it out along the way. And by cross-referencing different photos from the website I was able to (mostly). But even then-it wasnt until recently that I realized that the servo skulls actually attached to the various servo-arms and guns. And really, 500 bucks and you couldnt make a nice detailed manual? Im doing it for free. To be fair, they seem really busy; theyve had the notice on the website for six months now that Currently due to high demand there is a delay in
shipping orders. Due to the unprecedented demand for certain models delivery may take longer than four weeks. So I guess theyre at least being honest. But already Im getting too political

The details in the schematic for construction of the foot are invaluable. This is by far the most complex part of the model. Depending on how you assemble it; youre looking at 152 pieces. Of which 68 are both feet! To put that in perspective, the Land Raider is only 66 pieces (not including the detail/marinethrough-hatch tree).

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Youre probably use to using a polystyrene cement (like the GW one) for plastic models (which actually melts the plastic together). With the metal models you have to use superglue. You could use superglue with resin (do not use polystyrene cement), but I decided to step it up due to the size weight of this model. I did a quick experiment with various Loctite adhesives and the Elmers Ultimate glue. Hands down formula 416 won out. You can pick this up at various hardware stores or check out the website http:// www.loctite.com/

Notice how in the end I wasnt able to fully break the bond, I could only chip away at the surface while the bonded side remained. Working with resin is a completely different game than plastic or metal. Both FW and GW offer some tips which can be found here http:// www.forgeworld.co.uk/resinmodels.htm and here http://us.games-workshop.com/games/40k/apocalypse/painting/forgeworld/default.htm

Starting from the bottom up I cleaned all the pieces and attempted to get a good dry fit. The molds from FW are a bit suspect. Some pieces are flawless in their fit and finish, some without any mold lines to speak of. Yet some will contain mold shifts that are nearly impossible to fix. The flashing (the thin resin membranes) is pretty easy to clean up. Every large piece suffers from air-bubbles (which you would think they could fix by purchasing a $700 vacuum pump, but I guess theyre busy designing stunning models). Some vents can easily be cut with a hobby knife or clippers, but some will need a hobby saw. You want to be careful with this part, many times I nearly cut off an important part of the model or completely left a ventthinking that it was suppose to be there. When sanding, be sure to use some sort of breathing apparatus (see: cover). Apparently resin dust is very bad for you. Even when using the mask I could later feel the resin in my lungs. Trust me, dont mess around with this stuff.

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I wanted to get all the sanding and shaping done before I washed the pieces. This way I could get all the dust off of the model before assembling. Washing this thing became the bane of my existence. I ended up trying half a dozen different cleaners. I suppose its possible that I received a model which happened to have an unusual amount of release agent left from the mold. But this stuff would just not clean up. This is problematic since it will prevent the primer from bonding to the resin (which was an entirely different headache). This means your final piece will be flaking paint-not good.

Be careful not to cut off any fingers you may need in the future (hint: thumbs are important)

I tried every tip I could find (with the exception of using a high sugar based drink like coke). I used dish soap, dish degreaser, floor cleaner, countertop cleaner, window cleaner. I tried soaking, dipping, spraying. I used sponges, scour pads and cleaning brushes. Some parts were fine, and some would never come clean. The detail in the model also prevents using sandpaper in certain areas. In the end I did the best I could and moved forward. I recommend a strong cleaner (the degreasers worked well), spray and scrub with a sponge and brush, soak and repeat. Resin is porous (filled with little holes), so give everything a couple days to dry.

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There is something cool about Titan pieces drying next to dishes.

In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Assembly
You could conceivably construct different sections at the same time. For example; building the feet and the carapace at the same time (which is how I did the painting). This being my first Titan, I just started from the bottom and worked up. But while youre waiting for the glue to set-feel free to start on other areas. Just keep everything from the waist down in one build (critical to get the balance of the Titan correct). I should note that I wrote all of this post the completion of the build. Its only in hindsight that Ive been able to thoroughly analyze the Titan build on a meta-level. I feel reasonably comfortable telling you to just build the legs whichever way you want and that due to the incredible design-everything will work out. The amount of pivot points and areas of articulation is staggering. Its conceivable that no two Titans would ever have the same pose. As long as you put a little thought into it all-everything should be fine. But for the purpose of this elucidation I will attempt to explain how these 90+ parts will form the base of your Titan.

Feet
I suggest playing with the feet for a while, dry assemble them into various poses to understand how all the joints work and where the balance feels right. I built the first foot flat so that I could get an idea of how everything goes together and provide a stable platform in which to base the rest of the model. With the foot flat you will have the pistons in the mid extended position. I attached each toe segment then pinned the entire length in two sections. The GW staff from the Battle Bunker strongly suggested pinning. And I totally agree. With a model this big and heavy you want as much protection and support as possible. I feel that my Titan could easily survive being knocked over on the table without any damage. By the end the legs contained about 20 pins.

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Once all the toes were pinned into place I dry fitted the pistons. When cleaning the pistons I retained the greatest length possible to allow for whatever pose I might have in mind. Estimate the length needed by placing them in the approximate position. Then cut off a little less, try again, the piece should barely not fit. Sand or shave slivers off until the fit is perfect. The mold shifts on the cylindrical pieces are the worst (see crude caver drawing #a). The problem is that you cant really leave it alone (as it wont fit into the corresponding hole). If you try to gap fill it-it will be too big to fit. I just shaved them down as little as possible. The best solution would have been to cut the entire thing off and use some aluminum tubing to make new ones.

I suggest completing one full toe first. Once one is connected to the ankle you will be able to compensate for any changes with the unglued toes. I didnt do this for one of the toes and now it doesnt touch the ground.

Notice that there are many parts which will need a shave to fit properly. Also see how I almost ran out of shaft length. Trim as needed.

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You can get away with building the feet any way you like without much consideration for the rest of the model, the legs and hips joints will be able to compensate for most variations. Just realize that the Titan will rely on two legs for balance, and these legs are dependent on four toes. I believe that you could get away with a half stepped foot using only the three forward facing toes for stabilization. But for sake of ease I suggest using all the toes for support. And if you want to make a giant base for your Titan, you could have one foot in the air coming down to crush your enemies! Just be sure to use some really big wire to armature on the stable leg.

In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

For the second foot I went a little more adventurous. Will Hayes has designed an incredible model here. The feet can be positioned in any number of ways, and the way it all goes together ensures that nearly whatever pose you conceive of will work. I used a slightly lifted position. I didnt want to go for a full step since I didnt want to base the model and I needed the full support of both feet. You can see that some of the toe knuckles are so extended that I nearly ran out of piston length. Once they were glued I drilled through their entire length to provide one pin for support. The bent knuckles require a couple pins to secure to the ankle socket. You want to do a lot of dry fitting for these complex pieces which will support the entire model.

Just check out the level of detail!

Most of pinning is about making estimations. This can be intimidating if youre just starting out. It would be nice if there was some mathematical equation which could remove any uncertainty, but thats just not in the spirit of the hobby. When you start building models you will be scared to guess or experiment (at least I was). But learning to use your gut when it comes to modeling has been the most important skill for me. I guess I wouldnt recommend getting all crazy with experiments when building a $500 model, but in the end its about having fun.

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Pinning is a rather simple process. I use various sizes of brass rod to do my pinning, but the size you use for figures is just too small for a Titan. I wanted this thing to be heavy duty. I made a trip to the hobby shop to pick up some larger stuff for the Titan. Take the brass wire and estimate how much youll be using by holding it up to the pieces to be pinned-then cut a little extra (always cut a little more length than you need, trimming more is easy, stretching brass is hard). Using a hobby drill or Dremel, drill a hole in the first piece. Often times it will be imperative that you take into account how the two pieces will mate (see crude cave drawing #1). Anymore I just eyeball it. If youre off by some you could put a slight bend to the brass rod or just over bore the hole with a larger drill bit. It can be a bit complex with odd shaped mating surfaces (i.e. any ball joint or curved surface).

Lining up the second hole can sometimes be problematic. A good tip is to use a shorter piece of rod in the hole already drilled, slap on some paint and mate the pieces. BAM! You now know approximately where the corresponding hole needs to be (you will still have to gauge the angle yourself).

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Just completing a foot was a reason for celebration. Its good to reward yourself for these small steps. Each time I reached a milestone I patted myself on the back, you need that to keep going, its a long build. I spent a couple months on this project (which you could realistically complete in a week if you worked every day on it).

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Legs

As long as youre not going for some crazy pose, the legs are pretty easy. I wanted my Titan to be at full stance/stride. The easiest way to go about it is to aim for the hip socket to be above or slightly in front of the ankle sockets. Any deflection in one direction of one leg needs to be mirrored opposite in the other leg (see crude cave drawing #2). This is easier done than said (yes I wrote it that way). You will build one leg in its entirety and then the second (like the toes-you will be able to compensate for variance in one when building the other).

Dont fret; this is a well balance model. Using one foot and the three leg sections just dry fit different positions until you find something you like, and then glue one leg together (not the ankle socket yet). Once I had one leg completed I drilled and pinned the two joints. Now the complex part, it would be nice to have four hands, but alas Im not a mutant. We need to find the position in which to glue the completed leg to the ankle socket. Note: I swear this sounds more difficult than it actually is. As long as youre not going for a difficult pose-you could just glue the ankle of the first leg and compensate for variation with the positioning of the second leg.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Legs
Take the two feet, one glued leg and the three remaining leg pieces. Now dry fit everything together as best as possible (I dont use blu-tac, but it would be useful during this step). In one hand youll have the completed leg and foot, you can roll the leg in the ankle socket to find the angle in which you want the leg to finally rest. In the other hand you will have the three leg pieces and the other foot, you want to approximate the corresponding position needed to get a good balance (the actual position of the unassembled leg isnt too important right now, you just want to make sure your not extending beyond the range of positions). Your goal is to find a leg position which will put the hips halfway between the two feet and remain level. Unfortunately while assembling this I didnt think to take photos, so youll have to rely on my crude descriptions and drawings. Once youve found a satisfactory stance, glue the ankle. Just drop the unassembled leg pieces and remember how the other leg is standing. Lift it up, drop some glue in, and put it back into the same position the best you can and wait for it to dry (alternately you could blu-tac the unassembled leg and still move the other leg while the glue is drying).

Once the first leg is completed the second is much easier. Repeat the process to find the joint angles which will work best for balance and trueness (level of the hip joint). Once the second leg is glued (again not to the ankle yet), dry fit together. Now you want to find a stance which will leave the hips level and halfway between the two feet (see crude cave drawing #3). Dump some glue into the remaining ankle socket and hold the position together until it dries a bit.

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With the two legs completed I pinned two pins through the bottom of each foot into the ball socked (you could counter sink the pins and gap fill the hole if desired). Then I glued the five ankle pistons to each leg. I had bore out the holes a bit to get a good fit on the tiny sockets; some of them were missing the sockets completely. I broke one of the ball joints off applying too much pressure. This was a quick fix with a tiny pin.

I was missing one of the knee pistons and had to improvise (see also: bitches and moans). I just grabbed some brass rods, pins and that weird power cylinder from the 40K box set. Did some trimming and jammed it all together. I hate working with green-stuff. This scratch build worked well enough. Attach the hip ball joints into the legs. To get the rotation correct just estimate while holding the hips, the ball sockets which attach the hip pistons should approximately line up. I pinned the ball to the legs by drilling through the side directly into the other piece. Shoved a rod in the hole, clipped it a little short, filled it with glue and shoved it back in. If everything has gone well you can now glue both legs into the hips and have a level balanced platform in which to rain destruction down on your foes! I pinned the hip in place by drilling through the flat crotch area which was to be covered by the cod-plating.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Working with Magnets

I started this project with the great idea of using neodymium-iron-boron (NdFeB) magnets to attach key joints. This was a great idea but there were some problems along the way. These magnets are incredibly strong. I bought them from http://www.rare-earth-magnets.com/ These are the same magnets you want to use if youre making a magnetized army tray. Although the fast that glue wont bond to them is a bit of a problem. I trimmed down the hip joint which fits with the torso and glued a one inch magnet onto both pieces. These magnets are super smooth. Since they are not porous, glue doesnt like them. To secure them properly I also had to coat the magnets with green-stuff, effectively encasing them into the model. I only figured this out after an incident with one of the weapon mounts. This works perfectly for the hips (which give me the option to rotate my Titan). These magnets are so strong that this is as close as you can plance them without an interaction. That vise is a Dremel MultiVise and it is awesome! Its like 30-40 bucks. I picked up a second on after seeing how great they work. Youll need a hobby saw, or in this case a jewlers saw, tocut through enormous vents.

I didnt have a photo of the magnet encased in green stuff for the hips, but here you can see it in the body.

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The weapons affix with three points; the shoulder and two conduits. I thought I could make it work, especially with the rubber conduits which would allow for weapon travel/swing. Ill show you what I tried and the flaws. Personally I recommend just hard mounting the weapons (like I ended up doing anyway).

Here was the plan; use the NdFeB magnets at the fix points. The hoses would virtually connect themselves (I admit for the short time it worked-it was very cool). I measure the thickness of the carapace and found that on the outermost hose connection I would need to drill all the way through. I thought this would be okay since it would only leave a cylindrical extremity which wouldnt look too out of place. The fixtures were just big enough to house the corresponding magnet (make sure you dont install a magnet backwards, getting them out can be very difficult). I then attached the rubber hose lengths to be cut later.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

I then bored holes into the arms and carapace to house the large magnets. I positioned the weapons at a relatively level position and glued the sockets in place. I put two pins, one on either side, drilling through the side and filling the holes and socket with greenstuff (sorry, I could only find one photo of this, and it wasnt good). If you plan on documenting your builds, you cant take too many photos, try to remember to take one every step of the way. I had over 300 photos and still missed some very important steps. When taking photos of miniatures there are two things to keep in mind; use a tripod and learn your macro function. Oh yeah, and use plenty of light, and make sure you touch-up your photos in an editing program. I guess thats four things to remember.

Notice the glue which remaind behind after the magnet decided to leave.

The magnets seemed to be large and powerful enough to hold the arms on. But if you plan on doing this, use the largest magnets you can get, then use even larger ones. The problem came from when one piece got to close to a piece of metal and flew magically into it. These magnets are very brittle; it shattered to pieces and ripped it out of the carapace (because it didnt care about being glued). This may have been solved by securing the magnets with green stuff like I did the hips. After two days of fiddling with it in a vain attempt to get it to work and after drilling a hole nearly through the carapace-I scrapped the idea. I covered up the hole with a piece of plastic and decided to hard mount it all. It was a neat idea, but as long as you have hips which swivel-youre covered.

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Body

There is no lying; the carapace/body was a bitch of an assembly. Again I believe due to the molds and the size of these pieces. I dont know if there is a Titan which has a good fit to the body, mine certainly didnt. The first thing to do is fit the servitors into the missing section of the right and left shoulder carapaces. I had no intention of painting any of the interior detail. If you do (god knows why), I suggest painting all the interiors before proceeding. I glued every hatch and access closed. Theyre not made like the Land Raider with cool pivot points. If you want stuff to open, youll have to figure out how to pin your own joints. The way the entire upper body fits together virtually prevents this. In the end I had to use some heavy duty camps, pinning and green-stuff just to get the body together. The additional headache of making the interior viewable would have tested my patience. Im pretty good at mods, I dont recommend it-but if you decide to do the interior-more power to you.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Body

Next I fixed the vents to the back. I presume the only reason they didnt jus include them in the mold was to provide a big vent in which to fill the molds with resin. And these vents are huge! It took a combination of hobby saw and power sander to get them into a reasonable size. Be careful if you use a power sander, it will burn through resin like it was nothing (dont forget the respirator!)

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Once both wings of the carapace are completed you need to do a lot of dry fitting and cutting/filing/sanding. The front torso piece is a tough fit. Trial and error, shaving down obstructions, and dry fitting to each wing. This is where the bulk of the weight will be. I used three pins on each wing. Two in the middle and one right through the front.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Notice that the model wont align properly unless you force it, pinning this helps secure it beyong the glue bond.

When pinning these areas, you want to pick a spot and drill the most level straight hole possible. Then using a length of pin which is too short, dab some paint on it, line it up for a dry fit and viola! You have the mark of where you need to drill the corresponding hole. Once the two pins were in place I drilled a third hole through the front off the Titan into each wing and pinned it there. With the pins complete I clamped and glued the hell out of it.

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Fitting the top vent proved to be a bit difficult since the rest of the model isnt true (straight). I wanted to put grating over the open slots which meant I needed to paint the engine before sealing it under the grating. I cut some mesh and glued it to the underside of the top. I didnt do anything fancy for the paint; undercoat, some boltgun metal and some color on the hoses. I sanded the sides of the insert down a bit to get a good tight dry fit into the cover. Add some glue and clamps.

Arms

Once the top was completed I glued it to the carapace. I trimmed the exhaust stacks to fit and glued them to the back as well. The weapons were pretty easy. Youve got the arm, weapon and various details (plasma chambers & hose fittings). Holding the weapons in place I estimated the length to hose to use (go a little extra, you can always trim later). Also a couple pins in either side of the socket.

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Head
For the head I wanted to put some plastic in the windows so you could see through them. I wanted a dark or color tint to hide the fact the interior isnt painted. You can buy transparency printer paper from any office supply store. Or you can just take any printed image to Kinkos and have them put it on a transparency. I figured I would try a color fade from one side to the other. It was just a matter of cutting a piece, trying to fit, and trimming as needed. In the end it worked well. It didnt matter as I later had problems with the undercoats and painted over the windows. But it was a good idea at the time.

I toyed with the notion of putting LEDs in the model. But I really didnt want to extend this project more than I already had. There was also the issue of providing a battery compartment, and spot for a switch. I also felt it would be too difficult to put LEDs in such a small space. But then I found some crazy guy online who had put LEDs in his Tau, Necron and Space Marines. In their heads for their eyes! So clearly its more than possible.

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The head consists of top, bottom, neck, hose fittings and interior detail. I glued the neck on and put the interior bits in then glued the top down. If you dont glue the top on, it doesnt seem to fit very well (there is a gap that could only be closed with glued and clamps). But if youre so inclined, this may be another good spot for magnets.

There are a few options with the interior that took me a while to figure out. You can have the Princep in the Titan or a vacant seat. There are two wall panels, two additional tech priests, each seat has a headrest and a control stick. The control sticks are to use if you put your Titan crew on foot (took me a while to figure that one out).

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They provide enough icons that I had some left over for other miniatures. Likewise I used some misc bits from the good ol bits-box. Threw on a Land Raider name plate, Imperial command communicator, Space Marine communicator and a pair of shackles from the first generation Rhino. I knew the Imperial com would be the first to break off, and sure enough right after applying the second to last coat of mat finish it snapped. I pinned it back in place, now Im just waiting for the areal to break off.

For some final details I cut up the iconography which was included. You can really see the detail level achieved in these pieces. Games Workshop has made leaps of advancement in the manufacturing of their plastic miniatures and the level of detail which was once only obtainable through pewter casting. If you compare the GW and FW Baneblade tanks you can see that resin is still superior, but I dont see why they can create more super-heavy vehicles in plastic. If Titans were a mere hundred bucks a piece, I would field 5 for the cost of 1 resin model. How awesome would that be? In the meantime Ill be waiting for the plastic Thunderhawk Gunship. The flashing on the icons can be pretty bad. You could just trim away most of it. But some of the smallest icons looked unnaturally thick by doing this. Instead I just used my finger and sand paper on a flat surface to wear away the back until only the icon was left. I also trimmed the boarder from the Mechanium insignia. I tried to assemble my own Mechanium badges, but they were so large that they would be more fitting on a building.

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The D-rings which hang from the cod-armor needed to be drilled out. I have the compulsion to mod every miniature, even in the most subtle ways. That way nobody will have a miniature like mine. I decided to hang the loose chain included in the box from this cod-armor with no banner. Instead I used the Rhino shackles on the Vulcan Mega Bolter and made the banner to hang from that.

I personally favor using old metal putty tubes to make my banners. Theyre stiff yet still malleable, easy to create a cloth like drapery. Snip the top to create attach points and cut the bottom to indicate wear. Cut some brass rod and attached the banner and remaining chain length. Add some icons and purity seals.

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Throughout the rest of the model I attached various icons here and there. Most of which was concentrated on the leg armor greaves and carapace.

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I was finally far enough that the model was starting to resemble a Titan

Painting

The guys at the Battle Bunker said that they fully assembled the Titan before painting it. I dont know how people do that, I have a difficult enough time painting when there are no other parts in the way. For this reason I left the major components unassembled for painting. I was looking at five major component sections (legs, carapace, Mega Bolter, Blastgun and head) and six armor sections (shin greaves, thigh greaves, cod-armor and neck armor). Just to be sure about the cleanliness of the model (I had been handling it with pizza-greasy hands and drilling bits here and there not to mention the horrible attempts to gap fill with oil laden green-stuff) I gave it one final wash before attempting the undercoat. I say attempt because finding a spray which would adhere to the resin was a major headache. Two indicators presented themselves during the assembly. First was the vent/engine assembly which I had previously painted. And second was the head which I had sprayed before I inserted the windows. Both of which were showing signs of extreme wear in just handling of the parts. I went to scrape the surface of the head and found that the paint pealed off like sunburned skin. Not good.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Painting
This first attempt was using the Games Workshop Chaos black primer. At first I used an older bottle; I tried a new can just to be sure. No help. Next I tried a Krylon Plastic Fusion spray primer. I wasnt smart enough to try it on a small piece; instead I figured it had to work! Nope, and I spent the better part of the next two days trying to clean off the paint. I found a brass brush worked the best with minimal damage to the surface of the model. This also helped later on in providing a surface with micro abrasions for the paint to cling to. You really want to use some 300-600 grain sand paper on the flat rough areas before you prime. I cannot stress this point enough.

Souring the net for tips on priming resin; I found that many places suggested using an Auto primer. I headed to Autozone and picked up some Dupli-Color vehicle primer. This time I was smart enough to try it on a small flat piece. Still no good. Finally I tried the basic Krylon grey Primer. A winner! After a couple of light coats I switched back to the Chaos Black primer (paint will almost always stick to paint), I wanted to work up from a black base coat. Even down the road I found some areas where the adhesion didnt take. A couple coats of paint and plenty of mat finish was my final solution.

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I like to do my painting quick and dirty. And unless you have a great amount of concentration, its the only method for a model this large. In the beginning I was experimenting and working on details, but by the end I just wanted it to be finished. Im not a Golden Daemon painter and I never will be. It can be very demoralizing to look through a magazine and think you can replicate that level of painting when youre just starting out. My oldest issues of White Dwarf dont have many color photos. But looking at issues in the early nineties you can see that even the Golden Daemon winners were merely clean painted by todays standards. Start with the basics and build your skills from there.

I like the easy stuff, dry brushing and ink wash. I was going to give some tips on brush selection and paint choice, but the guys at http:// www.40kradio.com/ have been doing a podcast with a Hobby University series. Really good in-depth stuff. They spent an entire episode talking about brushes, and each episode after that has been dedicated to a different manufacture of paint. I cant begin to touch their knowledge of the matter and I highly recommend checking them out.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Here are my general tips; I use Citadel paints, theyve come a long way over the years. I started with the headache of oil paints back when I first painted (early 90s), acrylic is hands down the way to go. With a model of this scale I found that I could paint non-stop. By the time I finished one detail the other was already dry.

When I first open a new pot of paint I always put in 1cc of water and a penny (which Ive recently switched to using little glass marbles instead), and I cut the label so that I can keep track of which Blood Red has already been opened.

The penny (or any other non-reactive object you put in the pot) will aid in mixing when you shake the paint up. I switched to a glass marbles because I found the pennies eventually lay flat in the pot and lose their effectiveness. Ive read of paint mixers made with old orbital sanders. A clever idea, but a little extreme in my opinion. As long as youve got a good rattle in the pot-a minute of shaking will do the job.

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Brushes are not a permanent tool, they are consumable. The better you take care of them the less often you will need to replace them. Even with popper care brushes will deteriorate. I used about 7 different brushes while painting the Titan, about half of which were new. Two of the new brushes are getting close to dry-brush retirement based on the amount of use while painting this monstrosity.

Too be fair, the better looking bruch is sable which is of higher quality than the other one.

Keep the metallic paints apart from non-metallic paints. Both use the same substrate (water), but where as the regular paint merely contains pigment, the metallic paint actually has metal particles in it. Change your water when going from one to another, some people may go so far as to use different brushes. I just thoroughly clean the brushes when going from metallic to non-metallic.

On the left is a close-up of water after using a metallic paint, you can see the particles floating. On the right is a paper towel-which also shows the specs of metal. And this is me droaning on becuse I need to fill two pages.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Laying the color

Resin has a very rough texture. This works great for armor and metal. My first step was to do a heavy dry brush with boltgun metal on most of the legs and any other area I felt would look good as bare metal. I threw in some other metals for the different pistons and details. I tried using some blue ink to give the metal a titanium look. I dont know how I feel about this, I guess it worked. I wanted my Titan to look new (as new as a war machine can look). It was going to be a Titan that has only seen a few thousands years of battles (verse the 10K worth of most Titans). The best part of this was when a friend came over and saw the project; he asked why I didnt paint it more fresh looking. I guess looking at 10,000 years of war has warped my perception of what a new Titan should look like. To finalize the legs I used some black ink and some red ink for rust effects. The hobby painting section at the GW website has a neat little page that gives you quick tips on painting metal by selecting the desired result.

Watch out for signs of brush breakdown. And when a bruch finally dies, make it a good ol drybrush.

I considered putting some thought into a pallet, deciding which part should be a different color. But in the end I just picked a base color and went from there. I wanted to create some sort of connection with the Blood Angles; I went with Scab Red for the main color. I figured this would make up most of the models armor coverings. I started with all the leg armor pieces. The black undercoat kept the red very dark. I used 2-4 coats to achieve good coverage.

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I find that painting is all about touch-ups. When I started painting my favored techniques was dipping the miniature in paint and calling it good. I hated touching-up. With oil based paints you have to wait hours before applying the next color, never mind fixing mistakes. Getting used to touchups is the best advice I can think of. I would do a coat of scab red and then touch up other areas with chaos black, back and forth until I was happy. I added some edge armor wear with the extremely simple technique of adding a streak of chaos black filled slightly in with boltgun metal. I finished the lower greaves with some ink to add grime near the feet. Once all the armor was completed I glued it to the legs.

You can see where the primer still didnt fully take & my laziness as a painter comes out in some areas which I thought wouldnt be visible.

A simple quick layering for the banner, ink wash applied after the script. I doubt EXIM means anything, I guess it would be a number in Latin.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...
Painting the armor took a very long time. There is just no way about it. I needed 2-4 coats to get the desired coverage over the black and there is a lot of surface area here. I estimate that its comparable to the Land Raider. Again I didnt put much thought into what part would be what color. There were some things that I changed my mind on along the way. Just roll with it.

Once I had the legs complete I decided that another nice nod to the Blood Angles would be to give the Titan a blue helmet like their heavy support troops. I didnt plan on where paint would begin and end, I would just paint until I felt it looked right. I would occasionally check out the photos of other completed Titans, but I really feel you should just roll with it. I used the Blue foundation paint (which did do the job of coverage in one coat). Dry brushed some Ultramarine blue and highlighted a bit with enchanted blue. I then added some more of the boltgun metal on black for wear/scars. I picked out some details on the nose. Added some stuff to the left side of the head. Its rather difficult to paint scribbles that resemble writing-I pretend that Im outside in the cold. I also had to add a pin to the neck and drill a hole in the body at this point.

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In painting the top I realized that there was no way around it, I needed to do more gap filling. The thing about green-stuff is that is sucks. I dont know how the pros do it. I can sculpt pretty well with some Super-Sculpy, and filling gaps is pretty easy with regular model putty (I prefer the Model Master red putty you see in some of the photos). I may eventually try the grey-stuff, but the green stuff seems to only work for organic shapes and models. Either way the gaps between the wings of the carapace and the center vent assembly were too much to bear. So I filled them in and gave it a couple coats of paint, not great but better than a giant gap. The engine stacks in the back had a horrible gap that had to be dealt with as well.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...
Along the way I decided to add some warning lines on certain access hatches. I tried it free hand at first, but decided to make it look cleaner by masking instead.

With the body I needed to find a way to hold it so I wasnt constantly rubbing areas while I rotated it to paint another side. The magnetic hips came in handy a couple times for this. Most of the time it was sitting on foam and I used lint free wipes to rest my hand on the model. Eventually the two main colors started coming together. Once the bulk of that work was completed I could start picking out the details. Dry brushed the black trim with some boltgun metal, painted some pipes and rivets.

The Aquila is a good example of me not having any idea of what I wanted to do. It started black, then I tried silver, but that was too bright. I added some other metallic paints and eventually washed with ink and found myself surprisingly pleased with the overall effect.

I attached the head, neck armor and hoses. I painted the hoses before installing them. Just used a base color, add a thin highlight down the length of the color, and then washed it all with black ink. I used about 40% more length than I needed. Once one side was glued I just twisted the rubber until the slack was taken up by the curl.

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The Plasma Blastgun followed suit of the Mega Bolter. The only real dilemma was weather to use the blue style plasma, or the green style plasma. I didnt want the weapon to be competing with the head so I went with the green. Dark green, light green, a little yellow and thats it.

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...
When gluing the weapons to the carapace wings I was worried about the strength of the joint. I would have pinned it if it wasnt for the magnets already imbedded into the arms. I started with the hose fittings, doing each one in turn and letting it dry. Most of these still had the magnets which made it a little difficult to position them exactly as I wanted. With the Mega Bolter I barely had enough hose length to get it all to work. If you left extra like I said-you could now trim it to the designated length. Or do like I did with the head and create a couple loops. I had plenty of slack on the Blastgun and just let it hang where it would. To fix the main hard point I first sanded down the paint to get back to bare resin (which would facilitate the best bonding surface). I repeated this on the weapon as well. I put as much glue in the joint and around the edges as I could without it squishing out or potentially dripping down. I then had to make some sort of jig to let the thing dry for a few hours. Normally I dont wait all that long before fiddling with a glued piece. But since this was going to be the weakest link in the model, and I used as much glue as I could (which extends the curing time), I let it sit for a few hours. Sometimes a jig is complicated and requires ingenuity, other times its stupid simple.

This is a good reason to write down on paper what you intent to put on the model. I forgot what I originally intended, but it was a real Latin word, then I misspelled it on the third letter and decided to just throw in some random Latin sounding letters.

Once I had a couple pieces complete I took them outside for the finish spray. Even though I wasnt able to use the magnetic mounts for the arms, they came in handy when I want to have a gun hanging from my light fixture, or needed to spray the weapon. Titan base, I didnt do one. The only reasons to base your Titan is for use in a diorama or if you want a crazy pose. I did think about making the Titan drop pod Then I came to my senses.

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Epilog

One of the intended purposes of this guide was to try and give you the sense of what its like to build one of these machines of war. Hopefully when the time comes for you to build yours-you may already have some ideas of what you want to do differently. Models become easier with repetition. Ive already got some ideas on what I want to do with my Mars Pattern Titan and the Reaver Titan. The fruition of all these Titans will end with a scratch build for the Warlord Titan (because really, what can you do with an Imperator Titan?) I was so excited to get to building this that I didnt spend as much time as I should have cleaning the parts. I tend to blame that on the Forge World molds though. You really should strive for the best dry fit possible. I may try to magnetize the weapons on the other Titans. Just remember to go powerful and large. As long as you secure the magnets beneath something (as in the green-stuff encasement), everything should be fine. I highly suggest purchasing one of these if you get a chance to. It may not really be worth the cost, but it is very fun and quite a centerpiece for an army. Will Hayes and his team did an incredible job with the Titan. I feel the need to really laud them for my complaints in the next section will make me sound mean and bitter (which I am). I dont regret buying this, and I will continue to patronize Games Workshop and Forge World in the future. So should you! Remember, theoretically the more people that you get into this hobby, the more the price should go down (I doubt that GW would let that happen though).

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

Epilog
Thank you for deciding to consume something I created. This is my second modeling guide. I hope that you found this guide somewhat useful. If not, then I hope you found it a little entertaining. If not, then I hope you at least liked the photos. If not, well, if not then youre really obsessive for reading it to the end with no reward and you can go screw yourself! Cheers! -jabbakahut@hotmail.com

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The Titan beautifully designed model. One last thing. mechanics of howisitacomes together is superb. ButThe details are stunning. The I cant help but feel a bit cheated by Forge World. It shouldnt surprise me, Games Workshop has deteriorated in many ways over the years. I love their models, I love their fluff (go pick up the Horus Heresy series if you get a chance-you will not be disappointed). The advancement Games Workshop has made in plastic miniatures is incredible. Ive gotten use to the expensive cost of buying the latest GW model. Ive diligently upgraded over the years to keep current (ironic since I dont even play the gameyet). Forge world is a division of Games Workshop. And its been touted as the premium line of the really cool stuff. My complaint can be boiled down to one important factor; customer service. I feel rather cheated in this department. Remember, more than $500 spent on 1 model. It has been packaged as cheaply as possible; even the cardboard box it comes in is cheep. Its like the boxes of crap you see in the dolor store. Oh yeah, no instruction manual? Its odd to pay so much for a highly detailed resin model, that also has such egregious mold shifts, bubbles in the resin, mold release that doesnt seem to come off (maybe thats not their fault though), and as well designed as it seems, parts of it hardly fit together. Not to mention the headache of communicating with them. As you saw in the photos-my Titan was toeless for a while, in addition to missing the knee pistons. To be fair, my Titan came with all eight toes, its just that one of them belonged to a Mars Pattern Titan. The following is the correspondence I went through. The best part is of course in the end

1/4/08 Purchased Wold Class Titan from Wayne at the Glen Burnie Battle Bunker. 410-590-8675 6711 Baymeadow Drive Glen Burnie, Maryland 21060 1/7/08 I realized my toe was wrong and contacted the Battle Bunker. 1/11/08 I packaged up my incorrect Titan Toe and include a description of my missing knee piston and sent it off to the Battle Bunker. I proceeded to call back every week for the next four weeks for updates. 2/12/08 Wayne at the Battle Bunker suggests that I contact Forge World directly because although Forge World is part of Games Workshop, he has an exceptionally difficult time getting a hold of them himself.

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Bitches & Complaints

Through the Games Workshop site at http://us.games-workshop.com/games/40k/apocalypse/painting/ forgeworld/default.htm ... If for some reason youre missing a piece, either contact Forge World through their web site www.forgeworld.co.uk so that they can send you a replacement piece or go back to the store where you bought it and see if they will contact Forge World for you.

So you head to Forge World website, and after searching for a while you find this;

Q4. Can I contact you with questions regarding rules for Forge World models? A4.If you have any rules suggestions or feedback about Imperial Armour rules then please e-mail them to us at ImperialArmour@games-workshop.co.uk Please Note: This e-mail address is not for sales, events enquires or customer service problems. For them please use the Forge World e-mail address, you will get a far faster response. This address is for game related feedback and will be read by the Imperial Armour Editor, not the Forge World sales guys. Also, due to format problems we cannot send out rules via e-mail, so please dont ask for the rules for specific vehicles. We get lots of requests and we have to turn them all down, sorry.

I love that they tell you not to use this address for problems, but then they dont give you an address to use. Priceless!

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But more looking and finally I found something that might work! I HAVE A QUESTION ABOUT MY ORDER. If you have a question about your mail order please either telephone our mail order line or send us an email to fworderenquiries@games-workshop.co.uk. Please note it may not be possible for us to answer emails straight away. When making a query about an order please let us have as much information as possible, (e.g. name of person who placed the order, address of person who placed the order, name of person to whom we were sending the order, address of person to whom we were sending the order, when the order was placed, how the order was placed etc.) Forge World products can be purchased through a number of different ways: Forge World Products can be purchased direct from any of the events that we attend, and also from the following stores. If you want a specific model its best to phone the store before travelling to ensure the item is in stock. Canadas HQ store now stock Forge World product, 2679 Bristol Circle, Unit 2&3, Oakville, Ontario, L6H 6Z8, Canada (tel: 905 829 3295) Warhammer World, Games Workshop HQ, Lenton, Nottingham, England, NG7 2WS (tel: 0115 916 8410) Games Workshop Factory Shop, Glen Burnie, MD, USA (tel: 410 590 8675) Notice how that last place is where I purchased my Titan? But at least there is an email address in that first sentence!

Original MessageFrom: Atom Kahut Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 4:06 PM To: fworderenquiries@games-workshop.co.uk Subject: Recent Titan purchase I recently purchased the LUCIUS PATTERN WARHOUND TITAN (WOLF CLASS) from the Games Workshop Battle Bunker; Games Workshop Factory Shop, Glen Burnie, MD, USA. To my dismay one piece was absent and one was incorrect. I contacted the store which I purchased the model and sent them in the mail the incorrect piece and a photo of the missing piece. A month passed. To no avail, they were not able to replace the piece or get me the missing piece. They indicated that they will be sending the piece back to me soon. Although I love the model, my experience has not proven to be a good one. Im attempting to seek what other option are available. If needed, I can provide a copy of the receipt and photos of the missing/incorrect pieces. r/Atom

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In the dull grey of the near presenf there is only building stuff...

A week goes by without me hearing anything, but luck has it that I had found another email address!
Original Message From: Atom Kahut Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 6:24 AM To: forgeworld@games-workshop.co.uk Subject: FW: Recent Titan purchase

I emailed the address below a week ago, Ive yet to hear any response. So Im trying a different one. Ive been trying to get something straightened out with your brethren at Forge World. Please tell me you can help. This has been going on since the beginning of January, below are the emails Ive sent to the two different F.W. addresses one and two weeks ago.

I waited another week without any reply. I was also call the Battle Bunker every week to get any updates. Finally I emailed someone at Games Workshop and got a reply!

From: Atom Kahut [mailto:atomkahut@gmail.com] Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 2:32 AM To: US Customer Service Subject: FW: Recent Titan purchase

Ive been trying to get something straightened out with your brethren at Forge World. Please tell me you can help. This has been going on since the beginning of January, below are the emails Ive sent to the two different F.W. addresses one and two weeks ago.

3/1/08 called Wayne, he said the original toe I sent would be leaving Monday to be returned to me.
Original Message From: John Spencer [mailto:John.Spencer@Games-Workshop.com] On Behalf Of US Customer Service Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 3:00 PM To: Atom Kahut Subject: RE: Recent Titan purchase

Hello, We have talked with the Glen Burnie bunker and they are aware of your problem and just waiting on replacement parts to arrive from Forge World. Thanks! John Spencer Customer Service Specialist

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Oddly enough I got another email only 4 minutes later

From: Tom Gruhala [mailto:tom.gruhala@Games-Workshop.com] Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 3:04 PM To: atomkahut@gmail.com Cc: US Customer Service Subject: Missing Titan Pieces Mr Kahut,

My Name is Tom Gruhala and I am the Manager of the Games Workshop Battle Bunker in Glen Burnie. I have been made aware through customer service of your issue with the Missing Toe and the Twin Leg Strut for the Lucius Pattern Titan you purchased. After a conversation with a member of my staff you spoke with less than a two weeks ago in ref with this issue I am writning to inform you that the toe is being sent out VIA UPS on Tuesday March 4th, 2008. However after searching through multiple kits and sources we here at the Bunker do not currently have a spare or replacement strut to send you. This is because we like you rely on Forgeworld proper to send us any additional pieces to correct errors. We are currently awaiting replacement parts for other kits in addition to yours and rest assure as soon as the piece arrives we will post it out to you ASAP. Thank you for your patience Tom Gruhala

Bunker Manager

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Well, March 6th I finally got my missing Titan toe But its the wrong toe! I dont know how you screw that up. I included a photo and even stated that the two wasnt the middle one. I didnt care at this point, my build had been waiting for primer for a while now. So yes my Titan has two big toes on his right foot. Nobody will ever notice. And here I sit writing this near the end of April and I havent even heard about the pistons I was missing (not that it matters at this point), although I did get an email from Forge World recently. Gee, thanks guys (two months later).

Original Message From: Stuart McQuarrie [mailto:stuart.mcquarrie@games-workshop.co.uk] On Behalf Of Forge World (UK) Sent: Wednesday, April 23, 2008 6:48 AM To: Atom Kahut Subject: RE: Recent Titan purchase

[DO NOT REPLY REPLIES TO THIS E-MAIL ADDRESS WILL NOT BE ANSWERED]
Dear customer, Thank you for contacting Forge World we sincerely apologise for the delay in responding to your e-mail. Due to current high demand, we have been unable to respond to e-mails for some time and have encouraged customers, wherever possible, to contact us by telephone. Contacting us by telephone ensures that your query is resolved as quickly as possible, allowing us to get all the information we need in order to help you - something that is not always possible with a single e-mail. We hope that your query has been resolved by other means since you initially sent your email to us, but if not, please call our sales and customer service team on +44 (0) 115 916 8177. We are open between 9am 6pm, Monday Friday, UK time, and will be happy to deal with any queries you may have. We thank you for your custom and your patience. Kind regards, Forge World

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References

Games Workshop http://us.games-workshop.com/ Micromark hobby tools http://www.micromark.com/ Blue Table Painting http://www.bluetablepainting.com/ Forge World www.forgeworld.co.uk Mini Wargaming http://www.miniwargaming.com/

Working with resin. http://www.wikihow.com/Prep-and-Paint-Cast-Resin-Models http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/resinmodels.htm http://us.games-workshop.com/games/40k/apocalypse/painting/forgeworld/default.htm Original Jabbas Guide to Building Stuff (vol. 1) http://www.scribd.com/doc/2058395/JGTBS My YouTube Channel http://www.youtube.com/user/Jabbakahut

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