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Rig Pumps

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Looking at the Fluid End of the pump

Right side

Left side

The right and left sides of the pumps are determined by viewing the pump from the back of the power end looking toward the fluid end.

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Rod Clamps complete Piston Rod sub Liner Spray Hose

Liner spray system

Liner Bushing

Fluid baffle

Piston Rod

Liner clamp Liner

with the exception of the liner bushing, these are the parts that will be remove to change the pistons and the liner

Fluid end assembly rod chamber

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Removing the components

Piston removal with liner in place: The two-piece piston rod permits removal of a piston without disturbing the liner. Remove the rod clamps and rotate the pump to position where the intermediate rod in the rear stroke position. Remove the sub-rod, rotate the pump and connect back to the main intermediate rotate the pump and pull the piston from the liner. Piston and liner removal as a unit: Remove the forward rod clamp and the liner clamp. Rotate the pump to place the intermediate rod in the rear position. Using the chain hoist as support, back the liner out of the liner pilot bushing with a pry bar, using the collar on the liner and the end of the pilot bushing as the vacuum point, lift the piston and liner as an assembly, using the chain hoist, up and out of the liner chamber.

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Start

Are you sure the covers are held back securely

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Working on the Fluid end

Turn the pump by rotate the pump to place the piston rod at the rear stroke position.

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Removing the rod clamps

The two rod clamps are identical and can be removed using ordinary ring spanner or open wrenches.

With the clamps removed turn the pump back in order to remove the rod sub (or extension rod as many call it)

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The extension can now be remove and cleaned up, you will still need one of the clamps to pull the piston out from the liner, if all you are going to do is change the piston rubbers pony rod

Rotate the pump to position the pony rod in the position where it can be connected to the piston rod, install half of the clamp there is no need to use the bolts

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You can now turn the pump over and pull the piston from the liner. If you have a second piston made up ready (always recommended) once you have checked the liner is in good condition and clean you can install the second one

When running a pump to a program there will often be 5 piston changes to one liner

However in this case will change the head and dress it with 8 pistons heads

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For a matter of interest but has nothing to do with pulling the piston

Body retainer studs Liner Bushing Liner clamp Liner casket Liner clamp Ware Plate

To separate the discharge module from the rod chamber, once the liner and liner clamp have been removed, take off the nut from the liner bushing remove the body retainer nuts and remove the module

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Liner clamp
Use the long and short tee handle wrenches furnished for the liner clamp to facilitate handling and slide it back over the liner

The clamp is hinged at the bottom and once the bolts have been removed the clamp can be lowered or opened up and slid out of the way

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Taking out the liner

Only a fool would attempt to pick up a 5 liner from the sump of a pump they are heavy and the footing is often insecure, use the right tools to pick it out, Never be afraid to say stop and if you work to a pump program there will be no need to rush

The liner will be picked up at least 6 feet then swung out from the pump, under normal condition one would keep well back from a hanging load. When removing the pump liner you may need to get in close, only use cloth or soft line slings with at least three wraps

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Liner sealing face wear plate -

liner pilot bushing

A clear view of the nuts that will need to be removed should you need to separate the discharge module The wear plate is retained by the liner pilot bushing. It contains two drilled and tapped holes to make it easer to handling and removal. Removing the wear plate also exposes the wear plate seal.

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Stripping the piston from the rod

Using a pipe wrench to hold the piston from turning and some weight on the other end, you can brake the locking nut free with a hammer wrench

Before installing the new head, clean the rod free of any grease and any dirt or caked mud

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Ware grove

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Triplex Piston.. Premature swab failure

Fig 1 is a new piston. Look at the wear ring around the middle of the reinforcing back plate is well defined and clear.
Fig 1 Fig 2

fig 2 you will notice the wear grove at the bottom is non existent. This is cause by the piston being force down on the liner.

wear grove good

wear grove gone

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Turning the rod

Some people believe if you turn the rod a 1/4 of a turn every so many hours you can avoided this.

Turning the rod has some merit providing the rod is lined up.

But to run a piston head that is worn flat will cause that swab rubbers to fail faster, this will be indicate by the lack of running hours.

Under normal pumping condition, one head should accommodate six swab rubbers and have a life span of 1700-2100 hrs

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Dressing the head

As a new liner is installed a new piston head and swab rubber should be installed with it and the hours reset to zero the objective is to get as many hours from the piston and liner.

The first piston head is normally complete with swab rubber, retainer and snap ring and will just be made up to the rod.

The snap ring that hold the swab retainer plate is very strong and needs a good hit to get it started out of the grove, use a cold chisel.

It is designed with a flat end and a tapered end use a thin flat chisel under the tapered section and the club hammer the ring will then spring up.

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Too install a new swab

Installing a new rubber: make sure the piston is clean and dry and free of grease slide the rubber over the piston and install the retaining plate.

Fit the snap ring so that the fat end is the first to be punched in. place the nose of the flat nose chisel and place it firmly on the snap ring. Be sure to check the snap ring is firmly in place before installing the complete piston on the rod

Give it a solid hit with the club hammer then follow up by going all the way around. Finally check the ring is all the way in

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Triplex Piston.. Complete

Swab Rubber Hex snap ring Standard Piston Rod and swap parts

Piston Extension Piston clamp Rod

Piston Head

Swab retaining plate

Locking Nut

Piston Rod Rod Connecting Stud

Not standard

Piston Complete

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Triplex Piston.. Complete

Piston Head O Ring Most rod have an extension rod that will either be held in Swab Rubbera clamp or a stud. place using Hex snap ring By removing the extension rod it makes it possible to change piston quickly thus reducing the risk of hole problems such as stuck pipe or cutting falling back and packing off the Swab string retaining plate

Piston Piston Head Complete Extension Rod Rod Piston clamp

Piston Rod Complete

Piston Complete

Locking Nut

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Triplex Piston..

Sizing for Volume output

The triplex has three pistons, a complete cycle of all three rod is used to work out the capacity per stroke. All working out in this course will be the old oil field units. In the case the pump output pre stroke will be in barrels US

Lst

Lst = Diameter of liner inc. D = Length of Stroke inc. Cof = 0.000243

Formula= Lst

( D2 )

Cof

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Triplex Piston.. Premature swab failure

Premature swab failure is often caused by rod misalignment. Rod misalignment is often course due to lose clamps or badly lined up from the power end and the pony rod. The derrickman should look after the fluid end and he and the mechanic look after the power end.

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pony rod
cross head

pony rod

guide plate The pony rod links the piston to the power end of the pump and is connected to cross head. The cross head move over a guide plate. If this guide plate is worn or out of shim it will force the piston down on the liner. Wearing the under side of the piston head.

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Triplex Piston.. Premature swab failure

When making up the extension rod to the piston rod the mating end must be clean and dry. Any grease must be removed

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Triplex Piston.. Premature swab failure

Understanding your pump means to understand the associated equipment. The most important being the pump gauge

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The Triplex Pump

When the pump is running properly there should be little if any fluctuation in pressure

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Obstruction under Valve

Any fluctuation in pump pressure should be taken as a warning to a pending problem. Here we can see something is wrong and from the fluctuation the indication is that something is under a valve

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Fluid end

Installing the liner

Power End The liner seal goes in this end use plenty of copper coat

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Install the liner clamp When working with liners never use a steel sling to pick them up use braded sling with at least two wraps,

Check the liner gasket is install and grease the outside of the liner before installing
Install the liner

Be aware this clamp is heavy so use the 2 lifting T that screw into the top

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Starting the piston back in

There's not a lot of room to move around, get comfortable before picking up the rod an piston, line it up with the liner

Use plenty of grease when installing the piston, It wont last long when the pump is running, but it sure makes getting it into the liner a lot easer

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Use the power end

One man can drive the piston home using the power end of the pump

However before re-connecting insure the connections are free of grease

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Again using the power end pull the pony rod back and insert the extension rod rotate the shaft until all the rod are connected then install the clamps

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connect the liner spray hose to the piston rod, connect the hose to the outlet at the bottom of the liner chamber. This is a quick connect coupling and must be snapped in place.

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Clean the liner chambers as required. The normal "by-pass" of drilling mud will settle in the bottom of these chambers. Remove and clean the sump whenever the coolant becomes contaminated and requires changing.

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Typical K-P Series Pulsation Dampener

Valve Guard With Lifting Eye Charging Valve Pressure Gauge

Compressed Nitrogen at 1/3 of the pumps maximum pressure

Cover Plate Diaphragm

Diaphragm Stabilizer

Drilling Fluid from pump

Body

Gasket

Graphic and much of the impute courtesy of the Hydril Company

Bottom Plate

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The lifting cap used for removing the top cap and protecting the gauge and feeder valve. This cap should always be on and bolted down while the pumps are running

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Reset Relief Valve

For most drilling people the reset relief valve would normally be called the Pop-Off valve
The most important point to remember is to read the manual that is supplied with the valve on your rig,

This lesson will concentrate on the RR Reset Relief Valve type CX

Manufacture RR Valve, Inc.

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Line from charge pump

Line back to pit

reset relief valve

Bleed off line The relief valve is used as a safety valve on slush pumps, mud manifolds and other equipment to protect against damaging pressure surges. Bleed off valve

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Installation and operation

All reset relief valves must be installed in a vertical position with the reset handle at the side to operate properly due to the need to lubricate the seals in the dual hydraulic chambers. The valve is set at the desired relief pressure by means of the adjusting nut at the front of the valve. A manual release button in the bonnet assembly permits easy and rapid opening of the valve regardless of line pressure. The position of the release button indicates whether the valve is open or closed.

Relief pressure can be set at any value over the entire range of the valve.

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When the preset pressure is exceeded, the valve snaps to the fully open position. After pressure is relieved, a tripfree reset lever closes the valve.

This is accomplished by pulling back on the reset lever, the indicator will show the valve to be in the fully set mode.

If the pump is to go back on line be sure to check the outlet on the discharge to see if there is a leak

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Heat exchanger (lub system)

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Back flush system

Fluid enters the liner chamber

Fluid leave the liner chamber after lubricating and cooling the system then is pumped from the trough and trough the heat exchanger

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Line from pump

out

In

From sump to pump

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The system uses a 3 hp motor to drive a 1 by 1 pump

Piston rods with an internal back-flush (rod lubrication system) will require periodic inspection to ensure that entry ports, drilled holes and nozzle ports are free of contaminant matter and scale build-up.

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As the back-flush fluid circulates, contaminant matter, congealed drilling fluid or solids can plug up the port and reduce the circulation output, reducing the flow capacity to the point that it impacts piston and liner life.

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Before adding clean coolant, remove the two draining plugs on the front of the sump tank sand flush the sump out with fresh water. Dirty coolant will increase wear and shorten the life of the coolant pump.

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Always locate it so to allow the spray better alignment on the liner. Make sure the spray nozzles are positioned properly for the size liner being used. Also install nozzles in the positions for the next smaller liner size if one exists.

Check the liner-piston coolant on a regular base, doing so will give an early indication of the possibilities of a swab beginning to go, Add coolant as required and replace if dirty.

SPRAY MANIFOLD OR DRILLED PISTON ROD - Check the spray nozzles on the liner spray manifold or holes in drilled rod daily. Clean them if clogged to insure an adequate coolant-lubricant supply for the liner and piston.

The flow should be check to see that it covers the complete length of the stroke

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The rubber pistons needs 10 gal/min minimum for each piston, polyurethane pistons needs 14 gal/min minimum for each piston, any less may have a major impact piston life.

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Oil System

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Dip stick and suction to the oil pump, oil to be checked daily and topped up as needed

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Oil pump

Feed and discharge lines leading from the pump to the filter

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Out of the heat exchanger

Into the heat exchanger

Cooling water leads Into the heat exchanger

Hot oil From the pump gos

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Main entry point for the oil pump into the power end

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Flow path From the power end

Flow path From the power end

Flow path From the fluid end

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Pinion shaft on the right side of the pump

From the inspection plate at the fluid end

From the power end with the main cover removed

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Pinion shaft on the left side of the pump

From the inspection plate at the fluid end

From the power end with the main cover removed

Main entry point for the oil pump into the power end

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The Bull gear from above the pump

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Crankshaft - gear - connecting rod

connecting rod assembly

the gear
crankshaft

Left side of pump right side of pump

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Lifting the crankshaft tools

The pad-eye is made to fit under the main shaft and is held in place using two stud bolts

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Lifting the crankshaft

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