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Barrel Fitting by Harold Hoffman

Barrel Fitting by Harold Hoffman

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Published by Norm

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Published by: Norm on Oct 28, 2012
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial


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Copyright (c) 2000 Harold HoffmanWe have many good Mini and other books on Gunsmithing, Knife making, History, Out of date, and Crafts books. The purpose is to give you the basic information on subject that iscovered here. I hope you enjoy and learn from these Ebooks. H. Hoffman All rights reserved. No parts of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any formor by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or anyinformation storage and retrieval system, without the written consent of the publisher.
Action Books
7174 Hoffman Rd.San Angelo, TX. 76905Phone/Fax 915-655-5953Home SiteEmail 
Harold Hoffman has through his 30 plus years of experience as a Gunsmith, Toolmaker and Custom Knifemaker has passed on to you through his books information that soon may be lost or forgotten. His booksare not intended for the person wanting to make a complete firearm, but for learning basic shop toolmaking.The information found within his books is for instructional purpose only. -- The titles DO NOT actualcover gun repair on firearms, but how to make needed parts for firearms which is about 40% of all gunrepair. Without this information you will be severely limited in gun repair. He first started gun repair whenhe was 18 years old doing minor repair for the farmers and local hunters in the Bucklin, Kansas area. Hismain interest was how to make rifle barrels, as he was an avid hunter. Moving into a bigger shop he bought a lathe and proceeded to learn how to use it. He wanted to find out how to make rifling buttons torifle barrels, tool making, and learn everything about making barrels.Over the years he became an expert toolmaker and how to build most everything that was needed in theshop. The information found in his books will show you how to make most of the equipment and toolsneeded in most shops. After an eye accident he quit Gunsmithing and started writing books on everythingthat he knew. He had so much difficulty finding any information that he wanted all this information that hehad learned in over 30 years to be available to everyone otherwise it would be lost. His books are nowabout the only books available on Gunsmithing/Tool making, as most publishers do not publish Gun or Gunsmithing books anymore.
One of the major operations on guns is barrel replacement. When the new barrel is a factorystandard for the gun in the case this is usually a simple job on rifle or shotgun, as thesefactory barrels practically always screw right up to the proper place. All gunsmiths usually dosome barrel fitting, to keep factory-made arms in use. The arms manufacturers do not sellbarrels for high-powered rifles, but require that the actions be sent them so they can fit andhead space the actions. Nearly all .22 rim-fire barrels and lever action rifle barrels are easilyfitted, with very little machine work.Removing the old barrel is not always so simple. If it is an octagon barrel, remove the tubular magazine. If the rifle is so equipped, and withdraw the breech bolt far enough so the extractor clears its slot in the end of the barrel by a safe margin. Next, place copper jaw-facings on thebench vise jaws and grip the barrel tightly in the vise, with the receiver close to the jaws. Padthe sides of the receiver with sheet lead or copper and place a heavy crescent wrench (atleast a 24”), on the receiver, being careful to place it as close to the front edge of the receiver as possible. This is done to avoid crushing in the thin sides of the receiver back of thereceiver ring:The finished barrels as ordered fit the old receiver as they come. Often you may find an oldreceiver, which allows the new barrel to turn and go past the index mark so sights will not lineup. If it turns in only little past, or just lining up without tension on the wrench, it is possible toset the barrel in tightly by removing it and carefully peening the shoulder of the new barrel.This swages the metal out so that it will offer greater bearing surface against the front of thereceiver.If the barrel goes too far past for lining up by peening, the best thing to do is to make awasher of thin shim stock to go around the barrel shank between the shoulder and thereceiver. If the barrel will not screw in to the index, you can file or take oft a little in the lathe,which will take an even amount off all the way around. If the work can be done on the lathe it isbetter, but be careful to only take only a very little oft at a time. What ever you do, do notremove metal from the front of the receiver back always work on the barrel. If you have apin-in unthreaded barrel that fits loosely, due to a worn pinhole. Set the barrel in tight againstthe receiver, clamp it there the best way you can and drill out the receiver and the barreltogether for the next size larger pin.

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