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Mesin 3 silinder segaris, atau lebih dikenal dengan Mesin 3 segaris adalah sebuah Mesin pembakaran dalam dengan 3 silinder yang terpasang sejajar. Kebanyakan mesin 3 silinder segaris memakai sudut putaran sebesar 120 sehingga putarannya seimbang. Meskipun demikian, meskipun mesin 3 silinder ini bisa mengimbangi satu sama lain, tapi pembakarannya tetap menimbulkan getaran karena tidak ada silinder lawan untuk mengimbangi seperti pada mesin 6 silinder segaris. Penggunaan balance shaft akan menghasilkan tingkat kehalusan mesin yang lebih baik.
Banyak mobil Daihatsu juga menggunakan mesin 3 silinder seperti Charade dan Mira/Cuore serta Daihatsu Xenia. Mobil Korea seperti Daewoo Tico, yang basisnya diambil dari Suzuki Alto 1988, dan versi terendah Daewoo Matiz juga menggunakan mesin 3 silinder berkapasitas 796 cc. Volkswagen Group juga diketahui memiliki beberapa mobil yang menggunakan mesin 3 silinder seperti yang digunakan di Audi A2, Volkswagen Polo, Volkswagen Fox, SEAT Ibiza dan koda Fabia. Mesin-mesin ini berkapasitas mulai dari 1.2L dan bertenaga 64 sampai 88 ps. Selain itu, di mesin dieselnya juga menggunakan mesin 3 silinder TDI 1.4L bertenaga 51-66kW (68-89 hp). Mesin ini dilengkapi dengan turbo dan memiliki efisiensi bahan bakar yang luar biasa.
Introduction
A refined engine should be smooth, free of vibration and quiet. These qualities also help the engine to spin freer at high rpm, raising red line, hence power. Engine smoothness depends very much on the basic configuration of the engine design no. of cylinders, how the cylinders are arranged (in-line, V-shape or horizontally opposed) and the V-angle for V-shape engines. In case a less favourable configuration is chosen, probably due to packaging or cost reasons, counter weights or balancer shafts may be used to counter the vibration generated in the price of a little bit energy loss. Strengthening of the engine block, crankshaft etc. can absorb certain level of vibration and noise. Lastly, the use of lower friction parts can further enhance smoothness and quietness.
To smooth the power delivery, all engines must employ a heavy flywheel, using its inertia to keep the engine running roughly at constant speed. Of course, the heavier the flywheel, the smoother the power delivery becomes, but it also makes the engine less responsive. Therefore the pulsation manner of the engine cannot be completely eliminated by a reasonably large flywheel. Therefore we need multi-cylinder engines. While single-cylinder engine fires once every 2 revolutions, twin-cylinder engine fires once every revolution, 3-cylinder fires once every 720 / 3 = 240 crank angle, 4-cylinder fires once every 180 (half a revolution) .... 12cylinder engine fires once every just 60 crank angle. Obviously, the more cylinders the engine has, the smoother the power delivery becomes. This explain why we prefer V12 engines than in-line 6, although both of them achieve near perfect internal balance.
Cause of vibration
Vibration is caused by the movement of the internal parts, especially are pistons and connecting rods. The piston and con-rod move up and down periodically without counter balanced by other means. If the engine is a single-cylinder engine, it will jump up and down periodically as well. In reality, the direction of vibration is not just vertical. Because the connecting rod is not just travelling upward and downward, but also left and right, there is also some vibration in transverse direction; However, compare with piston, connecting rod is much lighter, thus the vibration generated by the left / right movement of con-rod is also much smaller than the up / down vibration by the piston. What about multi-cylinder engines? That's much more complicated than imagined. We'd better to discuss case by case.
YES, the temp sensor from the charade is much thicker than this, but I only mean the connector...
Firing Order
The firing order is the sequence of power delivery of each cylinder in a multi-cylinder reciprocating engine. This is achieved by sparking of the spark plugs in a gasoline engine in the correct order, or by the sequence of fuel injection in a Diesel engine. When designing an engine, choosing an appropriate firing order is critical to minimizing vibration, to improve engine balance and achieving smooth running, for long engine fatigue life and user comfort, and heavily influences crankshaft design.
Ignition
In a gasoline engine, the correct firing order is obtained by the correct placement of the spark plug wires on the distributor. In a modern engine with an engine management system and direct ignition, the Engine Control Unit (ECU) takes care of the correct firing sequence. Especially on cars with distributors, the firing order is usually cast on the engine somewhere, most often on the cylinder head, the intake manifold or the valve cover(s).
Saab B engine, "firing order 1342" marked on inlet manifold. #1 is towards the firewall (right side of picture). When referring to engines, the front of the engine is the part where the pulleys for the accessories (such as the alternator and water pump) are, and the rear of the engine is where the flywheel is, through which the engine connects to the transmission. The front of the engine may point towards the front, side or rear of the car. In most rear-wheel drive cars, the engine is longitudinally mounted and the front of the engine also points to the front of the car. In front-wheel drive cars with a transverse engine, the front of the engine usually points towards the right-hand side of the car. One notable exception is Honda, where many models have the front of the engine at the lefthand side of the car. In front-wheel-drive cars with longitudinally mounted engines, most often the front of the engine will point towards the front of the car, but some manufacturers (Saab, Citron, Renault) have at times placed the engine 'backwards', with #1 towards the firewall. One notable car with this layout is the Citron Traction Avant. This layout is uncommon today. See also: Automobile layout
Notes
1. Before you start, get a big plastic box to put all the bits you take off into. A smaller one with a lid is a good idea for the nuts and bolts you take off. Loads of rags will also be useful for wiping, mopping up oil etc.
2. References to spanner sizes are both imperial and metric. In most cases the fixing are imperial so imperial spanners will be a slightly better fit. 3. Make sure you have plenty of beer in the fridge. You might need it later. 4. Anything which might cause you to shed blood, swear or might otherwise cause you harm is in italics. As is anything which requires particular caution.
Stage 2: Removal of engine components and controls: Again, there is no particular order to follow with this.
Carburettor and inlet manifold 1. Loosen the 11mm/7/16 nut on the end of the throttle linkage and withdraw the cable. Once you have removed the cable, tighten the nut up again so you dont lose it. Tuck the cable behind the brake and clutch master cylinders out of the way. The end of it will hurt like hell if it goes in your eye. 2. Using a 5mm socket undo the choke cable retaining bolt. You can hold the sleeve that the nut screws into to minimise turning. If you dont have a socket or spanner small enough, you can use pliers here too. Remove the bolt and sleeve and put in your nuts and bolts jar or they will drop out never to be seen again. 3. Remove the fuel pipe from the carb. This will be retained either by a cheapo wire clip that you undo with pliers or a jubilee clip. Having removed the clip, pull the pipe off (some fuel will spill out). 4. Remove the fuel overflow pipe. This just pulls off. 5. Remove the crankcase breather pipe. Again, this will just pull off. (If your car has an aftermarket air filter and inlet manifold, this may no longer be fitted.) 6. Remove the vacuum advance pipe from the carb and distributor and put on your pile of bits. At this point you have a choice. You can either remove the carb and manifold as one unit or remove the carb first. Removing them as one unit is more fiddly but probably quicker and means you dont need as many gaskets when you put it all back together. Removing the carb first gives better access to the manifold nuts.
the throttle return spring mounting and use a certain amount of industrial language to get clearance.
Alternator
1. Loosen the two top mounting nuts and bolts. These are usually 13mm/1/2 but could be 14mm/9/16 and the 14mm/9/16 nut and bolt at the bottom. Push the alternator down to slacken the fan belt and remove it from the pulley. 2. Undo the metal clip which hold the multi-pin wiring plug into the back of the alternator and pull the plug out. 2. Remove the nuts and bolts and withdraw the alternator through the grille opening.
Starter Motor
1. Disconnect the thick brown wire with the red tracer by pulling off the large spade connector. 2. Undo the 13mm/1/2 nut on the end of the motor and remove the thick black wired and two bunches of brown wire. Put the nut back on the stud for safe keeping. 3. Disconnect the white cable with the yellow trace by pulling off the spade connector. All the wiring connections to the motor should now be undone. 4. Loosen but do not remove the 14mm/9/16 top mounting bolt. This will be tight and it is not easy to get at so watch your knuckles 5. Remove the bottom bolt (same size as the top one) then remove the top one. Support the motor to stop it falling then remove through the grille aperture. If the motor is stuck a sharp tap with a block of wood will shift it.
6. Replace the bolts in the housing. Note: You may find, as I did, that the bolts were too tight to undo with the engine in-situ. If this happens dont panic. The engine will come out with the starter attached but you might need to remove the horn bracket for clearance.
Distributor (dizzy).
Note. It is not essential to remove the distributor but doing so will stop it getting damaged. Even if you leave it on you should remove the cap and rotor arm. 1. Number the plug leads with Tipp-ex and mark where plug number one is attached to the dizzy. 2. Pull the leads off the plugs and the coil. 3. Release the spring clips holding the cap to the dizzy and remove the cap and leads. 4. In the centre of the dizzy you will see the rotor arm. Remove this and put it in your nuts and bolts jar. 5. To remove the dizzy itself, first, clean around it with a rag and mark the both the engine block and the dizzy where it enters the block with tipp-ex so that you can realign it for timing purposes when it goes back in. 6. Loosen but do not remove the bolt on the clamp which holds the dizzy and slide the clamp out of the way. (Note: if your car does not have an A+ engine the clamp will be different. Check your manual for the removal procedure.) 7. Wobble the dizzy from side to side whilst pulling gently. When it comes free remove it through the grille aperture. 8. Plug the hole in the block with kitchen roll, a rag (or you wifes best tea-towel) to stop dirt or small woodland creatures getting into your engine.
Coil
1. Remove the two spade connectors noting which colour wire goes to which connection on the distributor. The connections should be different anyway but may not be. 2. Undo the upper and lower 13mm/1/2 bolts holding the coil clamp to the bracket and remove the coil. 3. Put the bolts back in the bracket for safe keeping.
Washer bottle
1. Disconnect the two spade connectors. 2. Pull the bottle upwards off the bracket on the inner wing. Empty the water out before it empties itself in your toolbox. Note: Watch your hands on the bracket, the edges are sharp.
Engine stabiliser
1. Remove 13mm/1/2 bolt securing the stabiliser to the engine. 2. Remove the 13mm/1/2 bolt that secures the bracket to the block. Put the bracket on your pile of bits. 3. Remove the nut and bolt securing the stabiliser to the bulkhead. You may need to tap the bolt through from underneath. Put the bolts back in place and throw the stabiliser on the pile.
Bottom engine stabiliser. (attached to engine block under the starter motor). This is easier to remove with the car on axle stands.
1. Undo and remove the 14mm/9/16 bolt securing the stabiliser to the bracket on the gearbox. 2. Pull the bracket down slightly out of the way and put the bolt back through the stabiliser for safe keeping.
Heater air intake. The big plastic tube thing on the nearside inner wing.
1. Working under the inner wing, pull the plastic corrugated pipe off the intake. 2. Using brute force and a certain amount of industrial language, pull the intake out of the hole. Dont worry about breaking it as it is quite sturdy. A fair amount of wiggling and pulling might be needed.
Exhaust Manifold
If your car is fitted with an LCB you should just about be able to get the engine out without taking the LCB off. I managed to and others have too. However, if you dont want to chance it, or if its mullered anyway.. 1. separate the two parts of the LCB at the Y-piece underneath by undoing the clamps (usually 13mm or bolts but not always). 2. Remove the two parts upwards through the engine bay. These can be a nightmare to get apart. Your swearing gland will really work overtime.
Heater valve
1. Loosen the jubilee clip securing the hose to the heater valve. 2. Pull the hose off the valve and tuck it out of the way. Some water will come out at this point. 3. Using a socket or spanner loosen but dont remove the securing bolt at the end of the heater cable. 4. Loosen the screw on the clamp around the cable sleeve. 5. Remove the cable from the tap and tighten up the clamp so that you dont lose the screw.
B. Engine mounts
B1. Drivers side: located behind the wheel. Wire brush the nuts and spray with penetrating oil before you start. The 13mm/1/2 bolts are on the engine bay side at the bottom of the clutch housing and will require a spanner holding them in place whilst a socket is used to undo the nuts under the wheel arch. You cant see the bolts so will have to feel for them. Put the nuts and bolts in your jar.
B2. Passenger side: Same size as the other side. The bolts are underneath the radiator and are very hard to get at. You will need some help for this.
i) Get someone with skinny arms to hold a spanner on the bolts (access via the back of the radiator) whilst another helper to pull the engine forward. ii)Whilst this is going on, undo the nuts under the wheel arch. Put your nuts and bolts in your jar. Note 1. If you cant find two willing helpers you can get at the mounts a lot easier by removing the radiator. This isnt necessary to get the engine out as it mounts to the engine mounting which comes out with the engine but will make like easier if you are a Billy-no-mates.
Note 2. If your car has had a recent engine change you might find that it has engine mountings fitted with captive nuts on the engine bay side and bolts going through from the inner wing. These are much easier to remove because you dont need to hold a spanner in the engine bay. You are now ready to start lifting the engine out but there are a couple of things you need to do as you lift.
D. Disconnect the speedo drive: located on the end of the engine on the passenger side.
i) Check that everything (except the speedo drive) is disconnected and that wiring etc. is tucked out of the way so it cannot snag. You can now lift the engine up until you can get at the speedo drive (where the thick black cable connects to the engine). As you lift, either get a helper to make sure that everything is clear, or stop frequently and check yourself. Note, if you left your LCB on the car check that it isnt hooked up on the diff housing. You may need to pull the engine slightly towards the front of the car as it goes
up for clearance. ii) Once the drive is accessible, undo the knurled nut holding it to the gearbox. You will probably need to use mole grips for this. iii) Once it is undone, raise the engine until it is clear of the front panel, keep checking that nothing is snagged or caught. iv) Once the bottom of the engine is higher the front panel, pull the crane back so that the engine is away from the car. Once clear, slowly lower the engine until it is about 12 inches from the floor. You can then move the engine to where you want it as it will be more stable in this lower position. Slowly lower the engine to the floor (do it fast and you will crack the sump). Job Done. All you need to do know is fit another engine!!!
Refitting
As they say in the best workshop manuals, refitting is the reverse of removal. That might be the case when bolting starter motors back on or refitting plug leads, it doesnt apply quite so well when refitting an engine. These notes will point out some of the pitfalls of putting the engine back in your beloved Mini to, hopefully, make it go that bit more smoothly. 1. The first stage is to attach your rope of chain as described above. If you are working in a garage or anywhere else where headroom might be restricted, put your crane as low as the hook will go and have as little slack in the rope/chain as possible. This will ensure that you have enough room to get sufficient height to clear the front panel without hitting the ceiling. 2. Once the rope/chain is on start lifting the engine, making sure that it goes up level rather than being higher at one end or the other. Once high enough, roll the crane so that the engine is roughly in the right place over the engine bay and lower it until you can reconnect the speedo drive. DONT FORGET TO DO THIS BEFORE YOU LOWER THE ENGINE INTO PLACE. Access is very difficult with the engine bolted in. 3. Once the speedo drive is connected, you can begin to lower the engine. If you left your LCB in place, make sure that the engine is going down past it rather than on top of it. Keep lowering until the engine is almost in position. 4. You now need to put the driveshafts back into the diff housing. To do this you have to push them onto the splines in the diff past the snaprings which hold them in place. The theory is that you push the shaft towards the diff and pull the engine towards the shaft. Once one side is in you can do the other side. However, I failed miserably.
5. Instead, I followed the Haynes procedure for releasing the balljoint on the passenger side to get one driveshaft out of the way. I then put the other shaft onto the spline and lowered the engine into place. The weight of the engine was enough to push the shaft past the snapring and into place. The other shaft was pushed into place once the engine was fully lowered and the suspension bolted up again. 6. Engine mountings. Once the engine is almost in place, you might find it helpful to push a screwdriver through the mounting bolt hole in the inner wing and through the corresponding hole in the mount itself. Once the holes are aligned you can refit the bolts. The earlier comments about the passenger side mounting apply equally when refitting. 7. Once the engine is physically bolted in you have to refit everything you took off earlier. There is no particular order in which you have to do this but you might find it easier to refit the gear selector and stabiliser before you refit/bolt up the exhaust manifold as you will have more room to work. 8. If you are re-using the old Roll Pin for the gear linkage, Philster recommends that you use a small jubilee clip to cover the holes where the roll pin goes in place. These pins have been known to work their way loose and fall out. Leaving you stranded at the roadside, in the dark at daft o'clock in the morning, miles away from home. 9. Once everything is refitted check that everything is connected up as it should be then you are almost ready to fire up. Before you do, make sure that you have remembered to put some oil in the engine. Cranking it over with the ignition system disabled will allow some oil pressure to build up before you go for launch. Charging the battery is not a bad idea either because if the engine you have put in is freshly rebuilt, it might be quite tight and unwilling to spin on the starter.
NGK(Japan) BMR7A BP2E BP2E BP2ES BP2ES BP2H BP2HA BP2HS BP-4 BP4E BP4EA11 BP4EFS BP4ES BP4ES BP4ES11 BP4ES-L11 BP4EY BP4EY11 BP10EVX,V W9EP W9EX-U W9EP W9EX-U W9FP W9FP-UL W9FP-UL W14PR-U W14EX-U W14EX-U11 T16EPR-U W14EP-U W14EX-U W14EX-U11 W14EX-U11 W14EX-U W14EX-U11 DENSO W22M-U IRIDIUM POWER IRIDIUM TOUGH IW31 IT16 VT16 NGK(Japan) BP5HS BP5S BP6E BP6EA BP6EA11 BP6EFS BP6EFS-13 BP6EK BP6EK BP6EK-A BP6EKN BP6EK-N BP6ES BP6ES BP6ES BP6ES11 BP6ES11 BP6ES11 BP6ES13 DENSO W16FP-U W16P-U W20EP-U W20EX-U W20EX-U11 T20EP-U T20EP-U15 W20ETR-L W20ET-S W20ET-S W20ETR-L W20ET-S W20EP W20EP-U W20EX-U W20EP11 W20EP-U11 W20EX-U11 W20EX-U13 IWF16 IW20 IW20 IW20 IT20 IT20 IW20 IW20 IW20 IW20 IW20 IW20 IW20 IW20 IW20 IW20 IW20 IW20 VW20 VW20 VW20 VT20 VT20 VW20 VW20 VW20 VW20 VW20 VW20 VW20 VW20 VW20 VW20 VW20 VW20
BP4FS BP4H BP4HA BP4HS BP4HS10 BP4HSA BP5E BP5EA BP5EA11 BP5EA-L BP5EA-L11 BP5EFS BP5EJ BP5EK-A BP5EKN BP5ES BP5ES11 BP5ES11 BP5ES11 BP5ES13 BP5ES-A BP5ESZ BP5ET BP5ET10 BP5EVX,V BP5EVX11 BP5EY BP5EY11 BP5FS BP5HA
T14PR-U W14FP-U W14FP-UL W14FP-UL W14FP-UL10 W14FP-UL W16EP-U W14EX-U W14EX-U11 W16EX-U W16EX-U11 T16EPR-U J16AY W16ET-S W16ET-S W16EXU/W16EP-U W16EP11 W16EP-U11 W16EX-U11 W16EX-U13 W16EXU/W16EP-U W16EP-U W16EPB10 W16EPB10 W16EX-U W16EX-U11 T16P-U W16FP-U
ITF16 IW16 IW16 IW16 IT16 IT16 IW16 IW16 IW16 IW16 IW16 IW16 IW16 IW16 IW16 IW16 IW16 IW16 IW16 IW16 IW16 ITF16 IWF16
VW16 VW16 VW16 VT16 VT16 VW16 VW16 VW16 VW16 VW16 VW16 VW16 VW16 VW16 VW16 VW16 VW16 VW16 VW16 VW16 -
BP6ESZ BP6ET BP6EVX,V BP6EVX11 BP6EY BP6EY11 BP6FS BP6HS BP6HS10 BP6HSA BP6HVX,V BP6S BP7E BP7EFS BP7EFVX BP7EK-N BP7ES BP7ES11 BP7ES11 BP7ET BP7EVX,V BP7EVX11 BP7EY BP7HS BP7HS10 BP7HVX,V BP8ES BP8EVX,V BP8H-N10 BP8HS BP8HS-10
W20EP-U W20EPB W20EX-U W20EX-U11 T20P-U W20FP-U W20FP-U10 W20FR-L W20P-U W22EP-U T22EP-U IT22 W22ETR-L W22EP-U W22EP11 W22EP-U11 W22EPB W22EP-U W22FP-U W22FP-U10 W24EP-U W24FP-U
IW20 IW20 IW20 IW20 IW20 IW20 ITF20 IWF20 IWF20 IWF20 IWF20 IW22 IT22 IT22 IW22 IW22 IW22 IW22 IW22 IW22 IW22 IW22 IWF22 IWF22 IWF22 IW24 IW24 IWF24
VW20 VW20 VW20 VW20 VW20 VW20 VW22 VW22 VW22 VW22 VW22 VW22 VW22 VW22 VW22 -
BP5EFS-13 T16EPR-U15