Solar Dehydrator

Solar Dehydrator Illustrated Plans

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Solar Dehydrator Illustrated Plans

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Solar Dehydrator Illustrated Plans

Post by WCE on Oct 31, 2004, 7:41pm

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Solar Dehydrator Introduction

Post by WCE on Nov 3, 2004, 10:44am

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Solar Dehydrator Illustrated Plans

The WCE Portable Solar Dehydrator

Design, Plans and Illustrations by Dan Jincks

Copyright Walnut Creek Enterprises 1998-2004

Introduction

The Walnut Creek Enterprises Solar Dehydrator is a unique innovation in dehydratordesigns. It uses the power of the sun to dry large loads of herb, seed and foods. The dryingis accomplished in the shade without sunlight burning the vitality out of your herb or food.Sunlight is converted to circulating hot dry air to accomplish the dehydration. A typical fullload is about 100 square ft. of drying space. About 10 times that of “home dehydrators”.Its solar efficiency is unusually high due to a number of interrelated innovations. Thoughlarge in capacity, the efficiency allows a wonderful portability to be built into the design.A reality of solar powered devices are those not-so-solar days and of course the nights.Slower static drying is designed in to continue without any sun and a simple electric heaterinterface allows rapid drying without respect to the sun.In December 1999 a new section was added about adapting the dehydrator for winter use.Not only can you effectively dry herb and food during sub-freezing sunny weather, you cando it indoors and heat the room as well. Its convection air flow requires absolutely noelectric or other energy to bring in hot air. Probably the most amazing aspect is that itdoesn’t cost hundreds of dollars - and you can build it yourself. A practical piece of

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Solar Dehydrator Illustrated Plans

equipment that’s practical to build and use.

Solar Dehydrator Frame

Post by WCE on Nov 3, 2004, 10:46am

Building the Frame

The shape of the dryer base may at first seem complex and require fancy carpentry. This isnot the case. You’ll need a crosscut saw, electric hand held circular is recommended,though a manual saw will do. The recommended joining technique is deck (or drywall)screws driven with a variable speed reversible electric drill, with a Phillips magnetic driverbit. This technique is fast and creates solid joining. Drilling holes for screws isn’t evennecessary with softer woods like pine. Nails are not recommended unless you clamp andglue the joints as well. This would add considerable time to the construction since the gluemust set up between steps.You’ll also need a framing square, combination square, tape measure and long straightedge. The lumber used in these plans is 1 x 3 (3/4 x 2 1/2) firing strips. 1 x 4 or highquality 1 x 2 can also be used. We tried to specify dimensions so any of these can be used.20 - 8 foot boards should build the frame, screen lid and probably a few drying screens - if you plan your cutting carefully.The paneling over the frame will require most of 3 - four by eight foot sheets. We chose1/8” Masonite as the best compromise between weight, strength, durability and thermalcharacteristics. Plywood and flake board can be used, but keep in mind that more thicknessequals more weight. (Be sure to use exterior grade) Sheet metal is not recommended sinceit dissipates heat out of the unit in an efficiency defeating manner - unless you add a layerof insulation.If you were to use 2 x 4s and 1/2” plywood, the extra weight would require heavy dutywheels and probably change portability into a 2 man operation. You would about triple theweight! When built as suggested, one person can tote it around on fairly uneven ground -even with 12 loaded screens.

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