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Dealing With a Dismasting
© 2008 Douglas GouldDismasted sailboats pose some particular risks and challenges for assistance operators.Even in calm weather, a dismasted sailboat is at significant risk as long as the rigging andspars remain connected to the vessel. The spars of most modern boats are made of strongaluminum extrusions, and booms or mast sections become underwater battering rams thatcan poke a pretty big hole in a boat. Meanwhile, a confusion of sheets, halyards, shroudsand torn sails create a real menace to anyone trying to walk around and work on deck.Dealing with a dismasting requires that you allow your inner risk manager to bubble upto the front of your consciousness. In some ways, this may be one of the most risk filledsituations you will ever encounter. Extreme care and diligence, with a healthy dose of caution are required to reach a successful conclusion without injury.In most cases, you will be faced with the job of detaching the entire rig from the vessel,and to do that quickly and safely requires a working knowledge of sailboats in general,and understanding how they are rigged is really important. Being able to identify whichwire or line goes where, and to communicate precisely with others about the all thecomponents while you are taking it apart makes the job go faster and in a logical progression.Many of the industry operators I know are veteran sailors, but for those who are not, findyourself a primer on sailboat rigging, so you will be conversant in the basics before you
 
face the tangled mess on the deck of a dismasting. (seehttp://www.sailingusa.info/parts_of_the_boat.htmfor more information)Approaching a dismasted sailboat must be done with extreme care. When first arriving onscene, you must make at least one complete lap around the casualty just to size up thesituation, and to look for the most logical place to come alongside. The casualty issurrounded with lines and wires, lying just below the surface waiting to snag the unwarycaptain and ruin his day.The majority of rig failures happen when a boat is under sail, which means the sails arealso the water, creating an additional hazard. It has been my experience that the sails areall usually off to one side or the other of the casualty, making your approach decisionseem obvious - but don't let a pile of sail material make this decision for you. Decidewhich side of the casualty will be the safest and most logical based on all the risk factors presented to you.Sections of the broken mast or boom may be rocking in the seas, even appearingcompletely free or loose from the casualty; they are probably hanging by just one or twothreads of what’s left of the rig. A sudden jerk from a passing wake or swell can propelthose pieces in unpredictable directions, like towards your towboat. If possible, have thecrew on the casualty pull everything in tight when you are ready to come alongside.Before you go aboard, assemble a tool kit with the following: two sharp knives, vicegrips, two pairs of pliers, two 8” Crescent wrenches, the biggest bolt cutters you have,one pair of heavy duty diagonal cutters, a couple of large screwdrivers, and a handheldradio. If you have some wire large wire-rope cutters, you will definitely want those. I liketo put all that into a canvas tool bag, one with a zipper closure. You will probably drop atool in the water at some point, so bring spares. A hacksaw may come in handy too.In a perfect world, you would have enough personnel on scene so you could leave anoperator with the towboat, and rather than tying up alongside, the towboat could standoff at a safe distance. Of course, if it
were
a perfect world, the poor sailor wouldn’t have losthis mast in the first place. If you must tie alongside, mind the underwater hazards.When you are ready to put personnel aboard the casualty, have a short safety briefing.Everyone should be wearing a floatation device. No one cuts or disconnects anythingwithout first informing the salvage master. Busted rigging parts and twisted spars canhave very sharp edges. Beware of open hatches. Avoid stepping inside loops of line or wire. Be patient and communicate with each other.Once you are on board, formulate a plan to begin to untangle this mess; but remember that cutting a line
over here
can cause two wires
over there
to unexpectedly fetch up tight.It’s like waking around in a life size pile of pick-up sticks, and if you are not careful, youcan get hurt or tossed overboard.
 
Every situation is different, and each dismasting deserves a careful, methodical thought process to disassemble and secure the pieces. Only do one thing at a time, and confirmthat you have not made matters worse before you begin the next step.We can separate the mess you will find on the deck into two basic categories – standingrigging (stuff that holds the mast up), and running rigging (stuff that controls the sails).Standing rigging is generally 1x19 stainless steel wire, which is relatively stiff and hardto cut, or it might even be solid rod rigging, which is a real pain in the neck.Running rigging is predominately cordage, (rope) that is easily cut with a knife. There aretwo exceptions; the first being wire halyards, usually a soft, flexible wire rope like 7x19,and the second being some of the new high-tech ropes. Both of those can be cut with asmall pair of Felco brand wire cutters.In most cases, your plan will begin with retrieving the sails by removing the mainsailfrom the mast and boom, and the jib from the forestay (assuming it was flying before thedismasting.) If you are lucky, you may be able to simply release (or cut) the halyards and pull the sails on deck. If you are not that lucky, perhaps you can cut the internal halyardswhere they are exposed by a broken section of the mast. Other solutions might includesending a diver down to the masthead to disconnect or cut the halyards. As a last resort, just cut all the sail material away in sections. Keep in mind that a large mainsail can beworth tens of thousands of dollars, so retrieving it undamaged may be worth an extraeffort.Getting the sails off the spars and secured might include cutting some lines, but sheets,outhauls, topping lifts and halyards are completely expendable under the circumstances,so cut them if you need to. Don’t cut any line that is under tension or taught until you aresure exactly what is putting it under stress.At some point, you may have to face a decision about what to save and what to jettison tothe deep. There are many factors one might consider, but in general, the quicker the rig isfree and either secured or gone, the less risk there will be. However, the value of some of the rigging parts, especially rod rigging and roller furling, can be significant. If circumstances allow, both the owner and the insurance company will appreciate efforts tosave what you can.There is one common piece of equipment that is most annoying to deal with, and that isthe roller furling system for the jib, which usually is integral to the forestay.Roller furling allows the jib to be rolled around the forestay using control lines that leadto the cockpit. Large drums, massive swivels and sections of aluminum-extruded track are all assembled around the wire forestay, and access to the bottom of the forestay isusually hindered by the drum and/or twisted pieces of sail track. Disconnecting theforestay requires removal of a large clevis pin located under the furling drum. (see photo)
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