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dept=1026 Cheese Connoisseur's Glossary

Technical Terms and Phrases Used to Discuss Artisanal Cheese The world of artisanal cheese is complex and varied, and can be difficult to navigate. To help you guide you in your quest for cheese knowledge, we have assembled this glossary. Here, you'll find definitions and explanations for many of the technical terms used on this site and in the cheese world at large. To supplement your endeavor, don't forget to explore our wine and beer pairings, educational classes, and blog entries. With these tools in hand, you'll soon be the ultimate cheese know-it-all! acid A description used for cheese with sour flavors. affinage (AH-fee-nahj) The craft of maturing and aging cheeses. affineur/affineuse The person behind the maturation and aging of cheeses. ammoniated The term usually used for bloomy or washed rind cheeses, giving off a strong smell or taste of ammonia. annatto A vegetable extract deriving from achiote seeds that is used to color a cheese red, yellow, or orange. artisan A skilled manual craftsperson. artisanal cheese Cheese that has been hand-crafted in small batches according to time-honored techniques, recipes, and traditions. bacteria Microscopic, single cell organisms found everywhere. Bacteria are integral to the production of every type of cheese. They promote complex flavor development, rind growth, and acidification. The large majority of bacteria in cheese are beneficial and non-pathogenic. bacterial surface Used to describe the rind of cheeses such as Munster d'Alsace and Epoisses, indicating a heavy growth of bacteria on the surface and unique flavor. bleu The French word for cheeses that are blue-veined. bloomy rind Type of cheese the rind of which has be coated with Penicillium candidum, allowing it to ripen from outside in. Camembert and Brie are examples of bloomy rind cheeses. bluing Blue mold found in blue cheeses. body The general name for the texture of cheese. Cheese body can be further described alternately as firm, weak, pastry, flaky, close, short. brine A mixture comprised of water, salt, and often some type of spirit. Brines are used to "wash" cheeses, inhibiting mold growth and promoting flavor development. bruised Term used to a describe a cheese that is off-color or possesses dents or other abnormalities. butterfat content

The amount of fat in cheese. buttermilk The liquid remaining after cream is curdled and churned to make butter - similar to whey. calf rennet A substance derived from rennin, an enzyme found in the fourth stomach of a milk-fed calf. It is used to coagulate (curdle) milk. casein The technical name for milk protein. Casein is broken in half by rennet in the production of cheese, forming curds and whey. cave Originally a real cave or cellar. Today, a cave can be a specially calibrated refrigerated cooler used to maintain the precise humidity and temperature levels ideal for aging cheese. cendre Denotes the sprinkling of cheeses with dark vegetable ash commonly seen on young goats' milk cheeses. cheese cloth A cloth, having either a course or fine texture, used to drain cheese curds or line cheese molds. chevre or chvre (SHEV-reh) A cheese made from goat's milk cooked curds A facet of cheesemaking, when cut curd is heated to expel more whey. cream The fatty element of milk. curd The solid portion of coagulated or curdled milk. curing The stage in cheesemaking when the cheese is left to ripen and lose some of its moisture. Also known as affinage or aging. draining When curds and whey are separated, and the whey is allowed to drain off. dry matter The part of cheese consisting of solid (versus liquid) matter. enzymes Enhances the coagulation of milk, along with rennet. eyes The technical name for holes formed in certain cheeses after fermentation, e.g. in Swiss cheeses. farmstead Describes cheese made solely from milk produced on the same farm. fat content The amount of fat in dry matter in cheese. fresh cheese Cheese that has not been ripened or aged. hard cheese Cheese that has been aged, salted, pressed for some time causing it to lose moisture. horizontal tasting (see also vertical tasting) The terms horizontal tasting and vertical tasting come from the wine world. A horizontal tasting with cheese involves tasting similar cheeses side by side, such as tasting various cheddars, or more specifically, several Loire valley chevres, or several blues, etc. These are some of the particularly exciting and educational ways to compare various cheeses side by side. From time to time Artisanal offers cheese tasting classes that employ one of these formats. lactic acid The acid produced in milk or curd during cheesemaking, often as a result of the addition of a bacterial starter culture. lactose Natural sugar found in milk. lactose intolerance A physical intolerance and inability to process milk sugars. It should be noted that lactose is consumed by bacteria in the production of cheese and converted to lactic acid. Most cheeses over 60 days old do not contain any lactose, or only contain trace amounts. Milk allergy is often confused with lactose intolerance. maturation Part of the process of cheesemaking, when the cheese is stored at a certain temperature and humidity for a period of time in order to allow its flavor and texture to develop.

mold

molding

When added artificially to a cheese, mold describes a fungus or fungiform bacteria necessary for the development of the cheese. It manifests either internally or on the surface. Cheese can also develop mold spontaneously or naturally, usually on the rind of a cheese. This mold is usually beneficial or innocuous, but can be harmful as well. Typically, darker-colored molds are beneficial or harmless (blue, gray, brown, dark orange). Avoid consumption of bright yellow, red, or jet black molds. A step in the cheesemaking process in which curds are poured into wood, metal, cloth, or plastic molds, containing holes to allow for drainage. These molds help determine the final shape of the cheese.

paraffin

The type of wax used to coat cheeses, providing protection during transport and to discourage surface mold growth. paste/pate The interior of a cheese. pasteurization The process of heating milk to destroy pathogenic (and beneficial) bacteria, rendering the milk "clean". The typical method employed is HTST or High Temperature, Short Time. Milk is held at a temperature of 161.5 degrees Fahrenheit (or 72 degrees Celsius) for at least 15 seconds. Penicillium candidum A mold often added to soft-ripened cheeses that promotes the growth of a white, bloomy rind. pressed cheeses Cheeses that have been pressed to further expel whey. Gouda and Parmigiano-Reggiano are popular examples of pressed cheeses. pricking The process of piercing a cheese with long needles in order to introduce the air necessary for certain types of fermentation, usually blue mold growth. rennet A plant or animal derived substance that contains the enzyme rennin. Rennet is crucial to the coagulation of milk in the cheesemaking process. Traditionally, rennet was derived from the lining of the fourth stomach of an unweaned ruminant animal (e.g. a calf, kid, or lamb). Today, microbial, plant-derived, and GMO varieties represent the majority of the market. rennetting The step in the cheesemaking process in which rennet is added to coagulate (curdle) the milk. rind The outside of a cheese. The rind acts as a barrier between the cheese and the outside environment, while also imparting a flavor of its own. ripening The process of maturing a cheese. Artisanal Premium Cheese specializes in ripening cheeses to their full flavor potential. salting When salt is added during the cheesemaking process to draw out liquid, enhance flavors, and stave off pathogenic bacteria growth. Different types of cheese require salting at different stages of the production process. skim milk Milk from which part or all of the fat (cream layer) has been removed. soft cheese Unpressed, high moisture cheeses that are aged for relatively short periods. Camembert and Brie are popular examples of soft cheese. starter The bacteria added to milk at the very beginning of the cheesemaking process. The starter serves to acidify the milk, speeding along coagulation, and also adds to the complexity of flavor. tangy Often used to describe the flavor of goat's milk cheese. Tangy flavors are often related to cheeses that are higher in acid. Toma (Italy)(TOMA) Toma is a soft or semi-hard, Italian cow's milk cheese. It is made primarily in the Aosta Valley and Piedmont regions of Northern Italy. Toma varies with region and locale of production. The Toma Piemontese variety from Piedmont has Protected Designation of Origin status under EU legislation while the Toma di Gressoney, produced in a restricted area of the Aosta Valley is officially recognized as a Prodotto agroalimentare tradizionale. Toma di Locana, Toma Val di Lanzo, Toma veia, Toma di Gaby, Toma di Battelmatt, Toma del Pesio, Toma del Maccagno to name a few which are recorder in Pierre Androuet dictionary of

cheese of the world. History: The word toma does not appear in the Italian dictionary. However, the most complete lexicons do contain the expressions "promettere Roma e Toma" (to promise heaven and earth) and "capire Roma per Toma" (to take Rome for Toma). In either case, the word was coined solely because it rhymed with Roma. The name may have developed from the old French term tumer, which means to fall. In the case of the cheese, it may refer to the dropping of the rennet into the milk to make it curdle. Whatever the origin of the name, the cheese itself is ancient. Pantaleone da Confidenza discussed it in his Summa Lacticinorum, which was published in 1477 in Turin. Tomme / Tome (French) (TOME) Tomme is a type of cheese, and is a generic name given to a class of cheese produced mainly in the French alps. Tommes are normally produced from the skim milk left over after the cream has been removed to produce butter and richer cheeses, or when there is too little milk to produce a full cheese. As a result, they are generally low in fat. There are many varieties of Tommes, which are usually identified by their place of origin. The most famous of these is Tomme de Savoie. Other Tommes include Tomme Boudane, Tomme au Fenouil, Tomme de Crayeuse, Tomme d'Aydius and Tomme du Revard. Tomme de Montagne is a collective term for the upland varieties, e.g. Tomme de Savoie but not Tomme de Beaujolais. Tomme is traditionally used to make aligot, an Auvergnat dish combining the melted cheese and mashed potatoes. The Tome des Bauges AOC are made in both, farm or dairy. When they are made in farm they are named Tome fermiere des Bauges, instead of just Tome des Bauges. Tomme (Swiss) Tomme Vaudoise is a melting soft cheese speciality from the Vaud canton and the Geneva region. Cheese connoisseurs appreciate the round, mild taste of the young cheese and the distinctive, rustic taste of mature Tomme. It has a rather thin rind covered with white or red mould, and is creamy in consistency. Tomme Vaudoise is a splendid addition to any cheeseboard and can also be eaten as a dessert or as part of a meal, for instance with vegetables or a salad. Molded as a small disk of 75g to 125 g (4 oz) according to the Swiss Cheese Marketing Board. triple crme (CREHM) Cheese that contains more than 75% fat in dry matter (e.g. Pierre Robert and Brillat Savarin). uncooked cheese Cheese produced where the milk is only heated to 36 degrees Celsius and coagulated at a slightly lower temperature. Milk used to produce 'cooked cheeses' is heated to a much higher temperature. Examples of uncooked cheeses are Cantalet and Fromage de Savoie. unpasteurized cheese Cheese made from milk that has not been pasteurized. Often called raw milk, cheese made from milk that has not been pasteurized must be aged at least 60 days before it can be sold. vegetarian rennet Rennet derived completely from fungal, bacterial, or floral sources rather than from livestock. The cardoon thistle, for example, is often used as a source of vegetarian rennet. vertical tasting (see also horizontal tasting) The terms vertical tasting and horizontal tasting come from the wine world. A vertical tasting with cheese involves tasting the same cheese at various ages, from as young as possible (just barely cheese) also described in The Cheese Plate as stage 1, to well-aged, if not overripe. This is one of many fun ways to compare various cheeses side by side. From time to time Artisanal offers cheese tasting classes in one of these particularly exciting formats. washed-rind cheese Used to describe a type of cheese that is washed periodically in a brine solution in order to promote rind growth and develop flavor. The rind may be washed in water, brine, cider, beer, spirits, wine, etc. Each type of wash imparts its own unique flavor. Examples of washed-rind cheeses are Epoisses and Munster d'Alsace. whey The liquid portion of the milk left when milk is curdled. High in protein and carbohydrates, it is often fed to hogs, or reheated to produce ricotta cheese.

http://www.eatwisconsincheese.com/cheese/Glossary.aspx

Acid
A descriptive term for cheese with a pleasant tang and sourish flavor due to a concentration of acid. By contrast, a cheese with a sharp or biting, sour taste indicates an excessive concentration of acid which is a defect.

Acrid
A term used to characterize cheese that is sharp, bitter or irritating in taste or smell.

Affine
(1) The French word meaning to finish or refine. A washed-rind cheese, for example, may be affine au marc de borgogne, meaning the rind has been washed with marc, a white brandy made from grape pomace during curing. (2) The process of curing cheeses. (3) One who finishes or cures cheese would be an affineur.

Affineur
One who cares for the aging of cheeses.

Aftertaste
The last flavor sensation perceived after tasting a cheese. Pronounced aftertastes usually detract from the pleasure of a cheese.

Aged
Generally describes a cheese that has been cured longer than six months. Aged cheeses are characterized as having more pronounced and fuller, sometimes sharper flavors than medium-aged or current-aged cheeses.

Aging
Often referred to as curing or ripening, aging is the process of holding cheeses in carefully controlled environments to allow the development of microorganisms that usually accentuate the basic cheese flavors. See Curing and Ripening.

American
A descriptive term used to identify the group of American-type cheeses which includes Cheddar, Colby, granular or stirred-curd, and washed or soaked-curd cheeses. Monterey Jack is also included in this group.

Ammoniated or Ammoniacal
A term describing cheese that either smells or tastes of ammonia as a result of being overripe or mishandled (i.e., held at fluctuating temperatures). This condition may afflict the rinds of cheese varieties with white mold (bloomy) rinds, such as Brie, Camembert and Chvres. A hint of ammonia is not objectionable, but heavy ammoniation is.

Annatto
A natural vegetable dye used to give many cheese varieties, especially the Cheddars, a yellow-orange hue. Annatto is odorless, tasteless and is not a preservative.

Appearance
A term referring to all visual assessments of cheese, from its wrapping, rind, color and texture, to how it looks when handled, broken or cut.

Aroma
A general term for the odor or scent of cheese. Cheese may lack aroma or display aromas, which range from faint to pronounced, depending upon the cheese variety. Aroma is closely allied to flavor, although cheese with a distinct odor may exhibit a mild flavor while cheese lacking odor may present a strong flavor. Aromas may also specify particular tastes

or scents, such as fruity, earthy, oily and nutty. The cheese rind may have a different odor than its interior. The aroma of any cheese is most distinctive when the cheese is first cut into.

Aromatic
A descriptive term for cheeses with distinct, pronounced aromas.

Artisan
A term describing cheese made in small batches, often with milk from a limited number of farms. Having unique texture or taste profiles developed in small sealed production or by specialized producers.

Assertive
A term indicating the presence of a pronounced taste or aroma.

Astringent

DEVELOPMENT OF A CHEESE TEXTURE LEXICON AND CORRELATION WITH RHEOLOGICAL MEASUREMENTS

by M.A. DRAKE, V. D. Truong, And C.R. Daubert Dept. Food Science & Technology, Mississippi State University, Mississippi State, MS 39762-9805
Texture and mouthfeel are important quality factors in cheese. Texture quality can be evaluated by judges trained to use the American Dairy Science Association (ADSA) scorecard. Here, texture is evaluated by hand and is defect-oriented. Alternatively, texture can be evaluated using a texture profile panel. Panelists are trained on selected universal mouth texture attributes that have been correlated with instrumental texture methods. There are drawbacks with both of these texture analysis methods including nonlinearity of the ADSA scale, and lack of cheese references and no correlation to traditional ADSA terms for the texture profile method. The objectives of this study were: to develop a texture lexicon for cheese using both hand and mouth evaluated terms with universal cheese anchors, and to correlate these terms with rheological measurements. Twelve different experimental and commercial processed and natural cheeses were evaluated. A sensory panel (n=10) identified nine mouth-evaluated terms and six hand-evaluated cheese texture terms with cheese references. Instrumental texture measurements were conducted using a TA.XT2 Texture Analyzer, a VT550 Haake viscotester, and a Bohlin VOR rheometer. Following multivariate analysis of variance and individual analyses of variance, consensus plots of sensory data and the relationship between sensory and instrumental data were explored using generalized procrustes analysis (GPA). : Sensory panelists were able to differentiate all cheese types using the developed terms (P<0.05). Mouth-evaluated terms were highly correlated with identical hand-evaluated terms (r = 0.95). GPA of sensory results generated three dimensions which described 38, 20, and 17 % of the variance, respectively. Rheological tests also differentiated the twelve cheese types (P<0.05) and showed high correlation with dimensions 1 and 2 of the GPA. Hand and/or mouth-evaluated descriptive terms can be used to differentiate cheese texture. Rheological tests can discriminate among cheeses in a similar way as human assessors.

ACID or ACIDIC
A term used to describe a cheese with a lightly sourish flavor.

AFFINAGE and AFFINEUR

The aging of cheese to its optimum maturity. Affinage is an expertise separate from cheesemaking. It is an analogous division of labor to the agriculturalist who grows the grapes and the winemaker who creates the wine. The affineur manages the cave* in which the cheeses are aged. Fine restaurants noted for their cheeses and which offer many different cheeses, like Picholine and Artisanal in New York City, have a full-time affineur to ensure the cheeses offered to diners are at peak development (a point) for their enjoyment.

Daphne Zepos, Director of Affinage at Artisanal Cheese in New York City, where she tends to the aging and care of more than 300 cheeses. Photo courtesy Artisanal Cheese.

*In the industry the French pronunciation, cahve, is used. While some farmstead cheeses in Europe are aged in the same rock caves used 1,000 years ago to acquire the bacteria and other environmental elements that provide their distinctive qualities, todays aging caves are state-of-the-art units that allow for different temperature zones and other settings that accommodate the needs of different types of cheese.

AGED CHEESE Except for the fresh cheese group, all cheeses are aged, or ripened. The longer they are aged, the harder the paste becomes (thats the main edible portion under the rind) and the more pronounced (sharp) the flavor. Some cheeses are made to age for two years or longerAsiago, Cheddar, Gouda and Parmigiano-Reggiano, for example. Others age for just a few weeks to several months before they are ready to enjoy. See maturation.

ALPAGE
Refers to cheeses made from Alpine meadow milk.

Aged cheeses: Gruyre, Emmenthaler, Grana Padano and Cheddar. Photo courtesy Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board.

AMMONIATED
Certain cheeses past their prime and overripe, particularly soft cheeses such as Brie and Camembert, can smell and often taste of ammonia. They are still safe to eat.

ANNATTO or ACHIOTE
A natural food coloring derived from the ground seed pods of the achiote tree (Bixa orellana, also known as the Lipstick Tree), native to Central and South America. The seeds are lightly peppery with a hint of nutmeg. Cheese is naturally the color of the milk from which it is made. Some traditional cheeses once had a natural orange hue caused by the vitamin D that cows ingested from grazing on green plants. But commercial cheeses are made from milk from cows that arent permitted to graze. Even with fine cheese, winter milk comes from cows that are fed silage (forage plants that are stored in a silo); the cheeses that result from this milk are white. This variation persuaded some cheesemakers to color their cheeses so they would look uniformly nutritious.

Annatto seeds, also called achiote for the achiote tree on which they grow. Photo courtesy Wikimedia Commons.

The earliest cheese colorings were carrot juice and marigold petals. For the last century at least, cheesemakers who wish to use color have used annatto instead. It is used in cheeses such as Brie and Cheddar, in butter and margarine and in custard powder (and has numerous non-dairy applications, such as smoked fish). While annatto adds a slightly sweet and peppery flavor to recipes, it does not impact the flavor of the cheese.

AOC (APPELLATION dORIGINE CONTRLE)

Controlled designation of origin, the AOC mark guarantees, among other things, that the cheese originates from a specific region of France and has been produced in a traditional way. There are 35 types of cheese carrying the AOC mark, which guarantees that: (1) The cheese was produced within a specific geographical area, from milk from specific herds of animals in the same area and partly matured there. (2) The cheese was made using strictly defined methods that have been handed-down over several centuries. (3) The characteristics of the cheese that have been precisely defined its size, type of rind, texture and minimum fat contentare adhered to strictly. (4) The producers submit themselves to review by a public control commission, which guarantees the authenticity and quality of the products. See also D.O. and D.O.P.

Selles-sur-Cher was the first chvre to be designated AOC, in 1975. It is made of raw goats milk. Photo courtesy ArtisanalCheese.com.

 POINT
Pronounced ah-PWAN in French, point refers to a cheese which is at the peak (the point) of its development, at the perfect stage to be consumed. The cheese is generally aged by an affineur, to bring out the finest characteristics in color and texture as well as the allimportant taste. In English, say at peak instead of at point.

AROMA
A cheeses scent, which can vary from faint and milky (fresh cheeses), to lightly aromatic, to pungent and overpowering. While most strong-smelling cheeses will also be strong-tasting, this is not a hard and fast rule: Limburger, Brick and Liederkranz have distinctive aromas, but are not overly strong-tasting cheeses unless well-aged.

Limberger may be the most famous stinky cheese. This washed rind cheese, or aromatic, was originally created by Belgian Trappist monks. It originated in the historical Duchy of Limburg, which is now divided between modernday Belgium, Germany and Netherlands. In the 1880s, New Yorker Emil Frey copied the recipe for Limburger and created Liederkranz. This pasteurized cows milk cheese has a tangy, creamy, Brie-like flavor with an incredibly pungent aroma. You can buy it from iGourmet.com.

AROMATIC
Another word for a washed rind cheese, such as Epoisses, Livarot and Munster. See washed rind cheese.

ARTISAN CHEESE
Artisan cheese refers to cheese that is produced in small batches, with particular attention paid to the traditional cheesemakers art. As little mechanization as possible is used in the production of the cheese. Artisan cheeses may be made from any type of milk; flavorings and inclusions (nuts, fruits, herbs, flowers, etc.) may be added. See also farmstead cheese for the difference between artisan cheese and farmstead cheese.

ASH-COVERED
After they are molded into shape, some goat cheeses are dusted with a fine powder of charcoal ash, traditionally from oak but today often vegetable ash. These are known as ash-covered goat cheeses (or chvres). Originally, the ash was used to protect the delicate cheeses during transport. While some people think it is now decorative in these days of modern transportation and refrigeration, the ash actually makes the cheese ripen more quickly. With the Valenay goat cheese at the right, the ash-covered variety is a bit creamier than the plain cheese of the exact same age; in general, the cheese gets creamier with age.

Valenay, named after a town in Frances Loire Valley where it is made, is shaped like a pyramid with the top cut off (in fact, it is sometimes called Pyramide). This classic French chvre is available plain or coated with wood ash. You can buy it from ArtisanalCheese.com.

ASIAGO
One of the most common Italian cheeses, Asiago is a grana-type cheese, made from cows milk. It is a sweet curd, semi-cooked cheese in the grana group, a group that also includes Grana Padano and Parmigiano Romano. (Grana is the Italian word for grain; it refers to a coarse-grained cheese.) Typically pale yellow in color, Asiago has a mild, cheddary, nutty flavor; it gets more flavorful and more crumbly as it ages. See a comparison of Asiago, Grana Padano and Parmigiano-Romano.

Asiago cheese with figs. Photo courtesy Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board.

BANDAGE-WRAPPED or BANDAGED
A cheese that has been wrapped in cloth, generally instead of wax. After the curds are removed from the press, the pressed cheese is wrapped with a sterile cloth bandage; the cloth becomes an indeible part of the rind. This is a technique used with fine Cheddar. See the photo of Fiscalini Bandage-Wrapped Cheddar on the next page.

BARNYARDY
A term often used to describe a cheeses aroma and sometimes its taste: Aged goat cheeses are often barnyardy. It is considered a positive characteristic of the cheese.