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Bike Riding in the Winter Months
byJuan Salazarwith contributions fromRick Carpenter, Dan Timmerman & Eric Smith
Contrary to many people’s belief, cycling need not be confined to spring, sum-Near Asbury, NJ - 02.07.2009mer and fall. Riding a bike in the winter is not without challenge, but by dressingadequately and carefully planning rides, it can turn out to be a very enjoyableexperience.Here you will find some of what I have learned from tackling on many winterrides, both here in Ithaca and some long distance events in Pennsylvania. Theinformation is from the internet, personal experience and from lessons learned inconversations with fellow cyclists during many hours on the saddle. I have chosento cover four crucial elements: clothing, the bicycle, nutrition and safety. Thesesections are followed by Rick’s tips on winder riding and some important commentsby Dan Timmerman and Eric Smith. At the end I have included links to my favoriteresources. Hopefully you will find lots of useful information for your weekend ride,nighttime rides, and even for the longer commute. After all, daylight hours aremuch shorter in the wintertime. So got out there and bike!
1 Clothing
The main recommendation here is to layer. It is important to have multiple layers of Tour de Solstice - 12.21.2008clothing that allow you to adjust your heat losses to the environment. Start off by usinga base layer that has good wicking properties, absorbing the sweat produced on yourskin. For this purpose merino wool turtlenecks are excellent. Synthetic fabrics are alsoavailable, but I personally prefer wool. Over your base layer you can add one or two extralayers of insulation, such as a fleece jacket. Always choose models that have zippers. Theyallow instant ventilation if desired. The next layer should have wind-blocking properties.When riding a bike, enhanced heat loss occurs because of forced convection. Just feelhow it gets colder on those descents. Therefore it is important that this layer is able toprotect you from the wind but also allow moisture to evaporate. Modern fabrics, such asthose manufactured by W.L. Gore & Associates, are a good option. A cheaper alternativeto Gore-Tex garments are Frogg Toggs foul weather gear. Look for models with backpockets. They are particularly useful for keeping energy bars from turning into inediblehockey pucks. Finally, for your outermost layer I would recommend a waterproof shellwith zippers and a ventilated back, such as the Showers Pass “Double Century” jacketas well as similar models. You might just be around 32F (0
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) and the last thing youwant is to get wet on a cold day.It is also paramount to keep your head warm. The brain is arguably the most impor-tant of your organs, so the body (commanded by the brain) will protect it at all costs, including reducing circulation toother less vital areas if needed. That being said, I wear a balaclava, similar to a full ski mask, but with nose and mouthexposed. There are also models that cover mouth and nose, but I find these annoying to breathe in. The balaclava alsoprotects your ears and neck. Nearly freezing ears can be quite painful. Other options include headbands, earmuffs, helmetcovers and goggles.The experts atRoadBikeRider.comrecommend wearing tights every time the temperature is below 65F (18
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). Al-though the legs do not suffer that much, cold knees get locked up and cause pain. As it gets around freezing, an extralayer is needed. Not to mention you should always wear proper cycling shorts. Do not use your shorts Superman-style,with the tights underneath them. This is not meant to be.Extremities are most vulnerable to the cold. One of the common mistakes made by cyclists is to stuff their shoes withmultiple socks. This would be fine except that usually this is done in an already snug shoe, leading to a compressed foot1
 
where blood does not circulate well, and heat does not arrive properly in the first place. So preferably you should wear athicker wool sock and a bootie to inhibit convection losses. If it gets really cold I use chemical toe warmers that slowlygenerate heat in oxygen-deprived environments, such as in your shoe. My best piece of advice to keep your hands warmis to use mittens or lobster gloves with a liner. Air between the liner and glove material is a good insulator. The bestgloves are separated into an inner insulation component and an outer wind and waterproof shell. When manufacturers tryto combine the two functions, it always seems really difficult to get the inners dry later on. Fingered gloves allow moremobility but also have larger exposed surface area, increasing heat losses compared to mittens and lobster gloves. I findthe lobster glove to be a good compromise. Also, avoid squeezing the handlebar with your hands when riding. Ideally thehands should rest relaxed on the handlebars. The squeezing prevents blood from reaching your fingertips and then it willget cold and painful really fast. The level of discomfort in these areas is largely a function of blood circulation, which canvary significantly from individual to individual. So there are no guarantees.
2 The Bicycle
The snow, slush and sometimes ice on the ground will reduce the friction be-A chilly Sunday ride - 01.31.2009tween the pavement and your tires. This obviously can lead to a fall and possiblyserious injury. Therefore, if you want to ride in the winter, it is vital that you havean adequate bike. That means your tires should be wide enough and preferably beknobby. Studded tires are also a good option if you are likely to find ice on theroads. But plan ahead and get them in the Fall. They are not as common as othertires and may be difficult to come by when you need them. Fenders are also aninvaluable asset on wet and slushy roads. They keep the nastiness away from you.If you want your bike to last, make sure you clean it properly after each ride.Because of the reduced daylight hours, it is likely that a winter rider will even-tually have to make way through the dark. If you do not intend to go fast or donot have any major descents on your route, small battery powered head lights willdo just fine. However, if this is a common occurrence you might consider investingin a dynamo hub, capable of generating enough power to light up the road in front of you and make of night, day.
3 Nutrition
The motto “eat before you get hungry and drink before you get thirsty” is particularly valid in winter. Cold and dryair can take a lot of water out of your lungs. The perception that we are sweating less in the cold can also inhibit waterintake. Increase in heat loss must be compensated by adequate calorie intake. So eat and drink plentifully, especially if your ride will last more than two hours. This can be a problem if the temperature is below freezing. Your water may turninto ice. I suggest using a water bladder close to your body such as a Camelbak when out in the cold for longer than twohours. If you make sure to blow air in the hose or keep it close to your body you should not run into problems. Addingelectrolytes or a pinch of salt to the water will also lower its freezing point.
4 Safety
Plan your rides such that you will encounter convenience stores, restaurants or inhabited areas along the route. Inthat way you will always have a safe harbor not far away. Know when to seek help, don’t be shy! Knock on a door andshare your story with a stranger. It is likely he or she will be inspired by your courage and will provide you with a warmshelter. Avoid riding in uninhabited areas if you are not prepared to do so and ride with a buddy if possible. AlthoughI do not like cell phones, these can be particularly useful in the winter, so take one along. At any sign of hypothermia,such as shivering and loss of coordination, seek a warm refuge. Be visible, wear bright colors (or reflective bands) andhave your bike equipped with blinkies.
5 Rick’s tips
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Winter ride time management
With all the additional preparation & equipment needed, someone new to winterriding should plan on a ride duration of 1 1
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2 times that of summer; i.e., if an 18 mile ride takes you one hour insummer, the same ride might take you an hour and thirty minutes in winter.
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Low Sun angle
Even during “daylight” hours, plan on riding with your lights on. Particularly in early morningand late afternoon, the low sun angle of winter will often make you difficult to be seen by road traffic (due to long2
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