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How To Build A Neck Jig
 
(by Matt Vinson)
Originally taken from www.guitarfrenzy.com
 
The neck jig is a very important tool to have. It can be the difference betweenhaving a good playing guitar or having one that plays great. I will explain inanother article on why and how to use the neck jig. For now, we areconcentrating on how to construct yourself one. Here is a list of things you needto build one:
 
Neck Jig Parts List
 
Description
 
Where I Purchased
 
Quantity Part #
 
Price per unit
 2x4 (8ft) local hardwood store 1 none -16"x24"x1" flat board local hardwood store 1 none -1/4-20 threaded inserts www.mcfeelys.com1 package(10)3606-STS 4.02Knobs (1/4-20) 1" stud www.mcfeelys.com 4 JKA-2510 .776mm driver for inserts www.mcfeelys.com 1 3606-STD 9.95Dial Indicators www.harborfreight.com 2
623-0VGA
 13.99Ratchet Strap Tie Downs local hardware store 2 none -Plastic Caps local hardware store 4 none -Mini Jack www.stewmac.com 1 3592 3.828" long eyebolt 1/4-20 local hardware store 1 none -1/4-20 pan head machinescrewlocal hardware store 2 none -small strap (lash strap) local hardware store 1 none -1/4-20 nuts local hardware store 6 none -1/4-20 washers local hardware store 6 none -drywall screws local hardware store 1 box none -3/8" steel rod (3 ft piece) local hardware store 1 none -
 
 The first thing you'll want to do is cut the main board to 16"x24" or whatever size youwant the neck jig body to be. I find that to be big enough to jig acoustics, bass, orwhatever guitar you want to jig. So after it's cut out you will draw a centerline down themiddle of the board which is 8" from the side in this case. Next, cut the 2x4 to around 51"long and draw a centerline all the way down the top of it. Also on this neck jig, I cutanother 16" piece of 2x4 to go across the back of the neck jig to make it stable instead of using levelers. The 16" 2x4 was marked in the center and the 51" piece was marked at oneend in the center of the board. You can attach these two boards with some drywallscrews, making a T shape out of the boards. Now you can align the top board and screw itdown to the 2x4's, using your centerline as a guideline. The 16" 2x4 board should alignflush at the end with the board. See the picture below. You can't see the back board butyou can see where it was screwed down by looking at the top board.
 
 As you can see in this picture that the board was attached on top of the 2x4, which isdifferent than the ones Stew Mac sells, but since I wasn't going to use the 4" swivellevelers I needed all the height I could get. In the photo above you can also see that thecenterline on the 2x4 was drawn and had been drilled after the board was attached with a3/8" drill bit at 4 different key locations. You will make 4 marks on the 2x4 at the centermark, measuring from where the board is attached at the top. The measurements I usedmeasuring from the board is: 1st mark (4"), 2nd mark (8"), 3rd mark (12.5"), 4th mark(18.5"). The reason I used these are because I took measurements from Stew Mac's Jig,by watching video's and looking at pictures using guitars necks as a reference. In allactuality though you could have used more rods if you wanted to. After they have beenmarked you can use the 3/8" drill bit and drill all the way through the board at thoselocations. These are for the steel rods to go through. Now you can cut your steel rods intofour 9" pieces and place the plastic cap on the ends. Next, take speed square and using thetop marks as your guide draw 4 lines down the side of the 2x4 so you can drill out a holefor the threaded inserts. The lines should be on the right side of the 2x4 looking at it fromthe 2x4 end. These inserts will let the knob stud contact the rod to keep it in place whentightened. After the line is drawn you will mark down 1-1/2" and will make the centerline for drilling the 3/8" hole needed for the threaded inserts. Look at the picture below toget an idea of what I'm talking about.
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Brilliant Matt, just brilliant, i´m gonna built me one instantly. Thank´s for the great effort you must have went throgh to do this Best regards from Bjarne, Denmark

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