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ONEIt always was a crazy idea. Taking a solo trip across the USA, that is. But crazyenough, I suppose, to suit the times. Back then, in the winter or early spring of 1970, Iwas a student at the Central School of Art in London. I remember the occasion quitevividly. With a few fellow students, I was enjoying a not-untypical boozy lunchtime ata local pub, the Princess Louise pub on High Holborn, moving on, after a beer or two,to a smaller establishment along the street. Here, we sat at a table at the front of the pub, bathed pale afternoon light and wreathes of cigarette smoke. The conversationwas flowing. The topic: what to do during the summer break. Various ideas weretossed around, until a concept emerged that perfectly captured the alcohol-fuelledzeigeist of the moment. We should, all four of us, embark on a journey by car fromEurope, via the USSR, to China. Of course, in those days the idea of travelling aroundthe USSR was almost impossibly exotic, and for various political and logisticalreasons, all but practically impossible. But naturally that only added to the allure.I remember we spent some time, well into the afternoon, discussing possible routesfor our grand expedition. One of those present, James, blond-haired and floppy-fringed great-great-nephew of legendary Victorian actor Sir Herbert Beerbohm Tree,had access to a Landrover. And so it was decided that this would be the vehicle thatwould transport us on our marvelous adventure. We riffed enthusiastically on the prospect of driving for thousands of uninterrupted miles across the Russian Steppes,vodkas in hand, the uninhibited horizons of our own imaginations, and further pints of London Pride, fuelling spectacular visions of the vastness stretching before us.James, it must be said, was the perfect captain for such a voyage. He had the looks, hehad the charm. And most of all, of course, he had the Landrover. The fact that he wasan old Etonian, impossibly charming and naturally skilled in matters of diplomacyand statecraft, were also points in his favour. He was, I recall, the only person I ever met who could successfully pick up girls on the London underground. And then therewas his heritage. I had never heard of Beerbohm Tree before James had explained atsome length, on our first day at the Central, why it was he preferred to be called 'Tree'and not the surname he was born with. Not that he came across as big-headed. He justwanted everyone to know their place in relation to his.James had a seemingly endless supply of unlikely and fascinating anecdotes. Hisfather, he told us, had lost an arm during the war, and was now a fitness fanatic. Jamesdelighted in recalling an incident in which his father had lost control of his rowingmachine, and had been catapulted across the room. On another occasion, Jamessuddenly announced, at the conclusion of an early evening's drinking, probably at thePrincess Louise, that his cousin, Alan, was a sound engineer at Abbey Road Studiosand had been working on the latest Beatles album. Why didn't we go around to hisMaida Vale flat and just, well, hang out? Alan often brought tapes back from thestudio, James said. We could sit around and listen to the Beatles at work, completewith studio banter, bum notes and maybe a few previously unheard masterpieces aswell.It was like having an invitation to listen in on God chatting with the angels before youwere actually dead. Within minutes we were trotting out of the pub and into the greasydarkness of a cold and wet winter's night, heading for the Holy Grail, which in this
 
instance happened to be a large ground floor flat at the end of a Georgian terrace inMaida Vale – just a stone's throw from Abbey Road Studios, as it happened. Jamesrang the bell. There was no reply. He rang again. Still no reply. We wouldn't get tolisten to the angels after all. James seemed unperturbed. He reached into the pocket of his greatcoat, rummaged a little, and took out a key. Two clicks, and we were in.'Looks like Alan's working late,' said James, switching on the light. 'We can just hangaround, see if he shows up'.We were in a large sitting room, maybe twenty feet by twenty feet, high-ceilinged inthe Georgian style. But what made the room so remarkable was the way James'scousin had decorated it. He had somehow got hold of three massive Westminster Bank street posters from an advertising campaign that was current at the time. It showed anidyllic sweep of grassy field stretching to a blue-skyed horizon, with an oak tree prominent in the centre. With the posters covering three of the walls, entering theroom was like stepping into a rural landscape. The effect was as wacky as it was breathtaking. You could almost smell the dew on the grass, feel the cool summer  breeze on your face.It was otherwise a bachelor pad fairly typical of the time. Not much furniture. A rather grubby kitchen with a week's worth of unwashed dishes stacking up. We cracked openthe flagon of cider we'd bought en route, and waited for Alan to show up. But henever did. Years later, I discovered that the Alan we were waiting for was AlanParsons, would find fame in his own right as a progenitor of New Age music with theAlan Parsons Project later in the decade, and who indeed worked as an assistantengineer at Abbey Road in the late 1960s and early 1970s. (He also went on to work on a number of seminal albums, including Dark Side of the Moon.)The Beatles album he was working at while we were waiting for him that evening wasthe band's final opus,
 Abbey Road 
. Months later, under very different circumstances, Iwould get to hear the album for the first time. But that's another story, and one that Icould never have imagined that rainy winter's night in Maida Vale.On another occasion, at James’s instigation, we piled into the Landrover and drove off to Brighton. I suppose I saw the outing as a sort of dry run for the proposed trip toChina, albeit in miniature and minus the waving grasslands of the Steppes. Theostenisble motivation for the journey was to visit James’s sister, a student at BrightonArt College, who turned out to be as spectacularly blonde and beautiful as Jameshimself. After touring the college, and basking in James’s sister’s eye-poppingBotticellian aura, we piled into the Landrover and headed back, ending up late at nightin an Indian restaurant near Paddington Station, where James tried gamely to persuadeus that the chicken curry we were eating was in fact stewed cat. It is an indication of his powers of persuasion that, for a terrible moment, we almost believed him.So, yes, James would have been the ideal commander for such an ambitious trip. But,alas, it was not to be. As we came to the end of our year at the Central, our attention became focused on other things. It became clear that of our proposed expeditionarygroup only James would remain at the Central, studying theatre design, as I recall.Chris, a friend from my home town in South Wales who had come up to the Centralwith me, also put trans-Asianic ambitions on the backburner to pursue his studies at
 
 Newport Art College. As for me, I was told my work had failed to reach the requiredstandard for a place at any London college, let alone the Central. This was partly, Isuppose, through lack of talent, but mostly, I think, because I had spent most of myyear pursuing other things. Music, parties, and adolescent dreams of revolution. I believe I sensed the world was changing, and that restricting myself to the mundaneevery-dayness of attending college, or at least applying myself while I was there, wassomehow counter-revolutionary. Our fourth expeditionary member, James's sidekick,an amiable, dark-haired lad whose name escapes me, had found a place at Chelsea, or Camberwell, I don't remember which.Either way, it became clear as we moved into our final term, that our dream adventurewas destined to remain just that. Without the pals, and without the Landrover, Chinaand the USSR would remain an escapade too far. But gradually, another possibility began to crystalise in my mind. During that year in London, and for some time beforethat, I had become fascinated by what I saw as the rise of a radical alternative societyin the United States. On a smaller scale, there had been similar developments in theUK. At times it seemed that virtually everyone, even school friends who just yearsago had been pill-popping mods, supported the revolutionary overthrow of societythrough a combination of LSD, rock n roll and dole handouts. But all that paled beside the social upheavals that were rocking America, fuelled by the Vietnam War onthe one hand, and increasingly radical demands for social justice from Black Americans, most notably the Black Panther Party, on the other.Without doubt, the rather pallid immitation of the American model that I espoused -not that it seemed particularly pallid at the time - had infused my time at the Central. Iremember, not long before leaving the college for the last time, daubing the walls withrevolutionary slogans in red watercolour paint (that I knew would wash off). For acollege project that had asked us to imagine and illustrate an imaginary future for ourselves, I had envisaged myself ending up as a Cuban revolutionary. I wore my hair long, in what could be taken as an approximation of the windswept style immortalised by Che in the famous photograph. I had taken to wearing a long, anarchist-styleovercoat with turned-up collar. The imaginary passport photo glued into myimaginary biography showed me leering at the lens, flashing a 'v' sign, the photo-flashthankfully bleaching out most of the pimples that by then had become one of my mostdistinctive features.It was, without doubt, an imaginary world I was living in, one in which anythingseemed possible. It bore little if any resemblance to the 9-to-5 drudgery that I felt surewas something a battle-scarred revolutionary hero would never have to endure. Howwrong I was on that score. 'Revolutionary hero' was one job description that wouldnever find a place on my desperately unimpressive curriculum vitae. But at the time,with revolution an ever-present spectre on my personal horizon, going out in a ButchCassidy & the Sundance Kid kind of way, all guns blazing, reactionary elements onthe backfoot, seemed a desirable, even likely, possibility. If only in my mind.But, then, England in those days was a markedly different world than the one it has become. In those days, everything appeared to radiate outwards from the momentouscultural revolution that was rock. Politics, literature, theatre, art: all seemed to beginand end within the parameters of the mesmerising, all-encompassing rock musicuniverse. And at the top of the heap, as they had been for seven years or more: the
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