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-^)i

JOURNAL
OU A

ROUTE,

S.

GosKiLt,
Queen

Printer,

Little

Stiect,

Holbor*

JOURNAL
OF A

ROUTE TO NAGPORE,
BY THE WAY OF

CUTTAE, BURROSUMBER,

THE SOUTHERN BUNJA RE GHAUT,

IN

THE YEAR 1790

WITH AX

ACCOUJfT OF JAGPORE,
AND A

JOURNAL FROM THAT PLACE

TO

BENARES,
BY THE

SOOHAGEE
> ?
i

PASS.

& '

By DANIEL ROBINSON J.ECKIE,

ILLUSTKATED WITH A MAP.

Esq.

LONDON:
PRINTED FOR JOHN STOCKDALE, PICCADILLY.
1800.

ADVERTISEMENT.
J.

HE following flieets are

kept,
;

a Journal

which

my brother,
for

when very young,

perufal

and intended only

the

my

but as

it

appears that
left

route he took

was through a part of India

nell's
it is

blank in Major Ren-

Map, and

laid

down

as

little

known

to

Rurcpeans^
fill

oifered to the Public in

fome meafure to
(hall

the

chafm, until more perfeft materials

be produced

towards completing that celebrated work.

14th April, 1800.

G. F. LECKIE.

ti5v993

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE

NAGPORE,
BY THE WAY OF

CUTTAE, BURROSUMBER, DONGUR GHUR,

AND THE

SOUTHERN BUNJARE GHAUT,

In the Months of March, April, May,
to ihe

3d of June,

1790.

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE,
&:c.

&c.

Sunday y March
UILES.
1

7,

JJEPARTED
arrived at Pulta

from Calcutta

at fix in the eVefling, arid

Ghaut

at nine o'clo ck.

Monday
river.

8.

Halted, and fent the baggage acrofs the

12

Tuefday 9.*

To

Seinkole.

jQ
Q
12
J2

Wednefday 10.
Thurfday
1 1
.

To

Diverhutta.

To

Miapore.

Friday 12.
Saturday 13.

To Dewaungunge.
To Kerpoy.

Sunday 14.
*

To

Midnapore.
face of the country

Any

obfervations

on the

from Calcutta io

Jella-

fore appear as fuperfluous as

a journal from Windfor to Kew

JOURNAL OF A
Monday
15.

miles.

lOl
Halted.
Halted.

luefday 16.

Wednefday 17.
Ihurfday 18.
Friday 19.

To Mookrimpoor.
a fmall village

16

To

beyond Narraingurh.
on the

14
10

Two

miles beyond Dantoon,

banks of a tank.
Saturday 20.
Pafled through Jellafore
S.
;

crofTed the

16

Soobunreka, and encamped to the

Cockerell's detachment.

W
I

of Colonel

My

elephant unfortunately
foot,

run a piece of bamboo into his

and
it

(hould have

been unable
civility

to

have proceeded had

not been for the

of Colonel Cockerell,

who

ordered

me

camp

elephant to Balafore.

Sunday 21.
as

The

road was uneven, over

fields,

and

15

we advanced

into the

Merhattah

territory there

was

lefs

appearance of cultivation and inhabitants.

We

crofTed

two

or three nullahs, or rivulets, and palTed the

to the right
:

Chokey,

or Station of Bufta,

there are
at the

only a few horfemen as a guard.

village of Burrampore,
in

We

encamped

company with Lieutenant

172

MILES.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.

172
Maxwell, Eiifigns Stokoe and Spotifv/oode> Mr. Foriler
having proceeded alone to Balafore, by the defire of
Colonel Cockerell, to
place
fettle

with the foujdar of that

for

regarding
S.

the fupplies

the

detachment.

Courfe nearly

10

Monday

22.

The

road was tolerably good, and the

country bore a more cultivated appearance than v;hat

we faw

yefterday

we

paiTed the village of

is

Ramchuncroffed

derpoor, where there

fort

of

mud

the

Soane

at the

Poolary Ghaut at low water, and arrived

at Balafore at eight o'clock.

Balasore was formerly

a flourlililng port, but their

is

manufactory of the Sanaes (properly Sehun) cloths

very

much

fallen off, both in quality

and quantity

and the

ruinous flate of the Englifh and

Dutch

fadories, with

the infignificance of the Danifli one, feem to fhow that

the trade
was.

is

not of that confequence which

is

it

formerly

The government

directed

by a

foujdar, a civil

officer,

having military authority, named Morah Pundit.

the revenue from Neelgurh, and remits
B
2
it,

He
182

collefts

JOURNAL OF A

whiles.

182
together with the annual tribute from the Rajah of

Mohr

Bunj,

to

Cuttae.

IMorah Pundit

came

to

pay Mr.

Forfter a vifit at the fadlorj,

mounted on an elephant,

and attended by ten horfe and thirty matchlockmen.

He
the

is

tall,

good-looking man, and wears the habit of

Decan Moguls.

Few compliments

palTcd,

and the

converfation turned upon the provifions to be fupplied

for the

detachment whilft
territory.

it

was palling through the

Merhattah

As I had heard much, and

horfenien,
I

feen nothing, of Merhattah

in obferving

was particular

them.

They

ride with very fhort flirrups,

infomuch that

their thighs

are in an horizontal pofitlon with the faddle,

which

is

made of cloths

or filk, according to the ability and fancy

;

of the rider, thickly quilted

and they have a firm

feat.

Their arms are fometimes matchlocks, with fwords and

ihields, but

moft commonly the fpear, which they ufe

with great dexterity.

The country round

pearance, and

about Balafore has a pleafant ap-

my

eye was very

much

relieved

by the 182

<Jb

MILES.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
profpeft of the Neelgarh
to the
hills,

182
after

having been ufed

dead

flat

of Bengal for near four years,

Tuefday 23.

Halted

at Balafore.

16

Wednefday 24.
gonea, where

good road

to the village of

By-

we encamped.

Courfe S.W.
partly through a jungle
;

14

Ihurfday 25.

Road good,

pafTed a large tank to the right on entering the village

of Surrow

proceeded to Kauns Bauns Nudde, where

at the foot

we encamped

of a bridge thrown over

S.

it.

The water
by

of the ftream was excellent. Courfe

and

W.
I could not learn

by

whom

the bridge had been built,

but

it

may

be furmifed during the reign of Aurungzebe,

when

the fplendour of the empire caufed works of this

nature to be performed fo remote from the capital.

Whilft

we were

here,

fome

bearers,

who had been

fer*

vants in Calcutta, brought us fruit and milk, and were

very

civil.

Moft of the bearers

this place

called Balafore bearers

;

come from
212

and

its

environs

fo they cannot

JOURNAL OF A

miles.

12

with any degree of propriety be called Balafore bearers,

as this place belongs to Cuttae.

Friday 26.

Road good;

palTed the village of Simle

17

and Goovindpoor,

to the right

and

left:

came
about

to a
fix

tank
miles

of water, called Ranneka Tallow,

at

from Kauns Bauns.

with
till

This
to

is

the only water to be

met

you come
plain,

Budrue.

Proceeded from thence

to the village

through a
to

open country,

of Budrue

the fouth of which, after eroding the

in a delightful

Soolundee

Nudde, we encamped

mangoe grove.
this place in
:

Mr. Motte remarks, when he paiTed

1769,

that there was a manufaftory of fine cloths

nothing

but coarfe are

now made.
are notorious.

The

thieves of this place

Colonel

Peirce was robbed in the midll of his camp.

We doubled
10

our guards and efcaped.

Saturday 27.

Courfe nearly
the

S.

Palled, at the diftance of a mile, Saut;

bienne
deep.

Ka ToUow

crofied

Toonda Nulla, ankle

left,

PafTed, at three miles, Choracooka, to the

ferai

and went through a ftream and

of the fame name

239

MILES.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
adjoining. CrolTed the lye

239
Nudee, and encamped
to the

weftward of Daumneger, on the banks of a tank of fine

water.
S.

The country
S.

is

woody.

Courfe,

firft

part,

E. latterly

12

Sunday 28.

Road woody
it

to the

Gaimtee

river,

which

we

croiTed

where

was entirely dry.

We

then pafied

through the town of Jangepore, which during the Mogul

government was
are yet

a place of

feme confequence, and there

many

remains of their buildings, particularly

ferai,

mofque and mehl

or

women's apartments, within

the walls, of which the prefent Merhattah officer has

erefted a bungalo.

The

following verfes will point out

the
**

sera;

May

the ftandard of King

Aurungzebe be difplayed
pure

while the world exifts!!!

The

Nawaub

of high

dignity erected a mofque in the town of Jangepore, be-

yond the power of language

to defcribe, from the

dome

of whofe roof the heavens appear low.

bead-tellers
!

Hear,

ye

if

you make

this place

your afylum

for a

night."

251

JOURNAL OF A
As
the conftruftor of this mofque was
hi

miles.

251

Abow

NeiTur
as
its

Khan, the age

date.
is

which he hved

will ferve

The

builder, with the vanity of a

Muflulman,

very extravagant in the praifes of his mofque, though

very ill-proportioned, having a large dome, with

it is

ihort pillars.

We

encamped, havhig

firll:

crolTcd the

Bittunie and CaiToah rivers, in which there was water,

in a
S.

mangoe grove on the banks of the

latter.

Courfe
15

and by

W.
Went
through the village of Burwa,
croiTed a

Monday 29.

pafTed a tank to the

left,

bridge, with four

centre and four corner minarets, and the

Bomine and

Komrea

rivers

croiTed the Gainkel again, pafled through

the village of Arckpore, and encamped about a mile

beyond

it,

in a fine
river.

mangoe

grove, where
S.

we had

the

water of the

Courfe

and by

W.

The

road

from Burwa

to

Arckpore
it

lies in

a fine broad valley, but

;

the cultivation of

appears to be in a neglefted flate

but

when we

confider the fyflem of government of the

native princes,

which pays

little

regard to the ability

266

MILES.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
of the
cultivator,

266
and
the frequent
introcIu6l:ion

of

rapacious
plains

foldiery, deferted villages

and uncultivated

become more matter

for grief than furprife.

14

T^uefday 30.

PaiTed the Burpah and Jeipore nuddees

to the right;

came

to
:

Luckunpoor
arrived at
left

ferai;

palTedGopej-

nautpoor
is

road good

Pudumpoor.

There

a tank of

good water on the

it.

on entering the town,

and one of bad on leaving

We
to

encamped in a manit.

goe grove, a quarter of a mile beyond

10

Wednefday 31.

Road good
little

the
it,

banks of the

Mahanuddy
croffed,

there was

water in
it

and where we
;

at the

Anifa Ghaut,

was fordable

but the

fands,

which are on either

fide of the flream, are deep,

and about three miles

acrofs.

We
we

were met on the

banks of the river by a party of horfemen,

us that the Rajah did not willi

who

told
at

fhould

encamp

Nuyeenah Baugh

but

we

explained to them that

we

were not a part of the detachment, and were going to

Nagpore

upon which we proceeded thither without

opposition.

290

10

JOURNAL OF A
About two
miles from Cuttae, to the weft, at the foot
'

mii-b.

290
situation

ofCuuae.

of a Hhidoo temple, the Cutjoora, feparating

itfelf

from

the Mahamiddy, flows to the fouthward of the town, while

the

Mahanuddy, pafTmg under the

its

fort

of Beerbauty to

the north, bends

courfe to the bay of Coojungh, where,

it falls

together with the Cutjoora,

into the fea, infulating

the fpot in the form of a Delta

(^).

The

land, from the

point of feparation of the waters, on one fide as far as

the town, and to the fort of Beerbauty on the other,

is

defended by a ftrong ftone embankment, which pre-

ferves the place

from inundation
ftone
;

in the rains.
:

It is

great work.

The

is

of the country
is

apparently

a concretion of fand

which

foft

when dug out of

the quarry, and acquires durability by expofure to the

air.

There

are fteps cut in the

embankment, and

feveral

temples on the Cutjoora bank for the convenience of

bathing,

and performing the Poojeh

lies

in the rains.
this

But

the ftream
year.

above a mile off at

feafon of the

There

is

number of

brick and ftone buildings

Building*.

^90

mLEs.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
amongft which
are, the

li

290
Laul Baugh, the reiidence of
the Rajah, iituated on the Cutjoora, furronnded by a high

Hone wall with gateways

feveral rehgious edifices, both

Hindoo and Mahomedan,

mofque,
built

particularly a very

handfome

by the order of Zeebul Niflau Khanum,

Aurungzebe's daughter, during the government of Ek-

raum Khan.

The
is

fort

of Beerbautty, to the north-

ward of the town,

furrounded by a wet ditch, about

is

150

feet broad,

which

fupplled from the

large ll:ones.

Mahanuddy
It is built

by a channel covered with

of

the ftone already mentioned, and the walls do not ap-

pear thick or in good repair.

There

are embrafures for

cannon only
loopholes.
Force.

in the baftions, in the parapet,

and curtain

From
I

the moft accurate information

confifts of

could procure,

found that the whole force

1000 Merhattah
foot,
little

and 150 Seik horfemen, and 500 irregular

better than rabble.
Revenue to Gois

The now

Soubahdar, as he
at

is

ftyled,
''

Rajah

Ram

Pundit,

Nagpore, whither he
c 2

is

generally

fummoned

290

12'

JOURNAL or A
in

MILES.

290
once

two or three years,

is

to give in his accounts.

:

His

tenure

on the footing of that of a farm

he pays the

Rajah of Nagpore 10 lacks of rupees out of the collections,

which

are eftimated at 22 lacks, including

:

what

is

fent

from Balafore

the reriiainder the Soubahdar applies

to his

own

ufe,

the pay of the foldicrs, &c.

&c.

He
is
^

generally returns from Nagpore well fleeced; for he

obliged to

make

confiderable prefents to retalnh

his

is

office

when,

to

make up

own

private loffes, and to realize

falls

the ufual revenue, the blow

with redoubled weight

on the wretched inhabitants of

his dillrifts. at Cuttae,

is

Gowraunois

Rov,

a Bengale

by defcent, born

the in-

flrument he makes ufe of; and fuch

ation that he
his
is

the utter deteftwill not utter

it.

held

in,
it

that a poor

man

name,

for

they fay
lie

brings mifery with

Piles

of fkuUs and bones

a rfiiferable

fcattered in and near the town:

at

fpeftacle!

which humanity fhudders

and the

ftreets are

crowded with beggars ftarved almoll

frequently furrounded

to death.
I

They
fliut

my

tent,

and

could not

my

ears to the cries of wretchedncfs.

290

'

MiLEr.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.

13

290
I

could not help drawing a comparlfon between the

ftate

wretched

of thefe people and thofe under the pro-

tection of the Britilli

government

and only
I

wifli that
.

Mr. B. could be

a fpeflator of
little

what

have feen,

There
culation,

is

very

fpecie in gold and filver in cirin cowries,

I

and the rents are paid

imagine

the greateft branches of the revenue arc the culloms,

and tax upon pilgrims going

load of filk
is

to Jugurnaut.
;

A
on

bullock-

taxed

at fix

rupees

and

fo

in propor-

tion to the bulk

and value of the load.

;

Pilo-rims

from the
are ge-

Decan pay

fix

rupees

thofe from Bengal,

who

nerally richer, ten;rupees.

in the exaction

They however

are notfevere

when they think

lofs

the party reallv poor i

and they make up their

occafioned by this lenitv

when they
is

find out a wealthy fubjefl: in difguife,

which

frequently the cafe.

Tburfciqy,

April

At

Cuttae,

Friday 2.
Saturday
3.

Ditto.

Ditto.

Sunday

4.

Ditto

290

14

Journal of a
Monday
5.

miles.

290
Enfigii Stokoe
fix

proceeded towards the

fouthward, to

the encamping ground of the detach-

ment.

The
vilit.

Rajah's fon, Sudafheveraou, paid Mr. Forfter a

He

was mounted on a fmall elephant, which he

rode with a faddle, and was attended

by the Dewaun,

the Kelladaur of Beerbautty, the Paymafter of the

troops, &c.

horfemen and footmen.

He is

young man,

black and fhort.

cloth,

His drefs was a fhort jacket of white

with a piece of loofe fine linen thrown over his

fhoulders, filk drawers, and a turban and

handfome

dia-

mond

bracelets.

He

fcarcely fpoke

but the

Dewaun

talked as

much

as four people.

We

received tliem
the

under an awning, and

we were

all feated in

manner

of the Eaft, upon a white cloth fpread upon a carpet.

The ceremony of
ing over, the

the diftribution of otter and paun

up.

bet-

company broke

Tuefday 6.

At
7.

Cuttae.

Wednefday
rived,

Colonel Cockerell's detachment arin the

and

went

morning

to be prefent at the
2^9,0

MILES,

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.

15

290
meeting of the Rajah's fon with the Colonel, and ac-

companied him
the
vifit.

to Laul

Baugh

in the evening, to return

Lieutenant Maxwell and Enfign Spottifwoode

left us,

and joined the detachment, having been relieved

officer

by Lieutenant James Davidfon, the

commanding

the efcort ordered with us to Nagpore.

Thurfclay 8.

At

Cuttae,

Friday 9.

Ditto. Ditto.
Ditto.
Ditto.

Saturday 10.

Sunday

1 1

Monday

12,

J'ufday 13.

Ditto.

Wednefday 14.
Thirfday 15.
Friday 16.
Saturday 17.

Ditto.

Returned the Rajah's

fon's vifit.

At

Cuttae.

Ditto.

Ditring tke time

cool and pleafkat
;

we were

at

Cuttae

it

was
;

In general

the wind from the

S.

E.

but ftormy

and rainy
3

in the night.

Sunday 18.

Crofled the

Mahanuddy

in boats,

and

551

JOURNAL OF A
in a

miles.

293

encamped

mangoc grove

fituated about

W.

and

by N. from Niigeenah Baugh.

Monday

19.

went

into tbe village in the morning,

itfelf

and could perceive where the Cutjoora fcparates

from the Mahanuddy, which

is

to the

fouthward of the

Dewul,

or

Hindoo temple, before mentioned.

20.

I'uejclay

Remarkably cool
it

in the

morning, but

at

twelve o'clock
rofe to
2 1
.

became very

fultry,

and the ther-

mometer

100.

Wednefclay
at

Mr. Forfter received

at

twelve o'clock

night Colonel Cockerell's long-wiflied-for letter, inall

forming him that

the detachment had crofled the

Chilca Lake, that the object of his refidence at Cuttae

was completed, and that he might proceed

'we

to

Nagpore

accordingly marched in a few hours

afterwards.

The firll part of the road was

village,

narrow, and led through the

left.

with the river* to our

Beyond

that,

although
fpots

there

is

a great deal of wood, there are

* By the river
is

fome open

meant the Mahanuddy.

3

307

MILES.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
;

17

307
of ground, which are crowded with game
cocks.
Sec.
lail:

as hares, pea-

The

four miles of the road were full of trees, and

the elephants were ia a fmall degree obftrufted.

We

went under

a gaut, called

Raoutoragurh, and encamped

at the village of Nundeilt, about a mile

beyond

it,

having

Kunderpoor
1

in

our front.
.

Courfe

S.

W.
Noa, Patna, and
and the
latter is

"Thurfday 2 2

The

firft

part of the road was rocky

Ifliea,

and bad.

PaiTed the villages of

firft

Soobunpoor: the two

large.

are fmall,

CrolTed the river in an oblic[ue direftion,

at Simlea, a fmall village.

and

encamped
15

Friday 23.
kie, the road

For three miles, to the village of Cutch-

was narrow, with

trees

on either

fide,

and

frequent openings to the river.

c PafTed the villages of

fix

Berau and Golgong

from Cutchkie, the
rather

the former about

latter nine.

miles diiiant

The
trees.

elephants were

impeded by the branches of

After leaving

the village of Berau the country becomes more open.

The Mahanuddy
334

is

near the road, and to the right; and

,S

JOURNAL OF A
The
valley

miles.

334
there nrc ranges of hills on both fides of it.
is

well cultivated.

We
S.

encamped

at Baidillnvore,

on

the banks of the Nulla, which joins the

Mahanuddy.

Our

courfe was nearly

W.
hill, at

Satnrdav i.

The

elephants went round the

is

i6

the foot of which the village

foot pafTengers kept
in

fituated:
at the

the horfes and

on the road

bottom, which

fome places was very craggy and uneven.

We paffed
andCul-

the villages of Beerpara at three miles, Kurbara at five,

Budumunt

at fevcn,

Pudmawuttie
;

at thirteen,

laub at fifteen, from Baidifliwore

and encamped in a fine

mangoe grove on the entrance

in

into the village of Cuttoo,

which there are two wells

the road was very good,

and near the banks of the

river,

and between Budumunt

it.

and Pudmawuttie partly over the fands of

The

hills

on each

fide

of the river are high, and on the north fide

the ranges are triple.

Courfe S.W.
The merchants
;

Cutloo
the

is

an extenfive market.

of

Decan bring cotton and other

articles

and thofe from

tin,

Cuttae, and the northern circars, import fugar,

3

cop-

350

MH.Fs.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
per,
fait,

19

350
and
filk.

The

trade

Is all

fettled

by a mutual

barter.

The

walls of the houfes are built of red earth,

llrengthened by bamboos in the middle, and they are

difpofed in

more regular form than the houfes

in Bengal,

but are badly thatched.

The

inhabitants drink well-

water, as the courfe of the river lies on the oppofite

bank, and the water

unfit for ufe.
1 2

is

fo

troubled in the rains that

it is

Sunday 25.

Struck off to the

left

through a

field,

and

entered a bamboo jungle, which was ftony and craggy.

The

elephants and loaded cattle kept more to the right

after leaving the field,

and avoided the jungle.

We

then proceeded about two miles over the bed of the

river,

and returned again

to the bank,

when

the road

became
is

better and the hills nearer on each fide.

There

a fingle hill to the right,

which intervenes between the

high, and near
it is

river

and the road

Cundeapara,

it is

a chokey,

called

at

about eight miles difiance from

Cutloo.

After pafiing the village of Lungracunta, a

mile further,
'^62

we encamped
D

in a fpacious
2

mangoe

grove,

zo

JOURNAL OF A
viliacnj

^rri.r.s.

362-

near the
jQows.

of Bealpara, under

Trliicli

the

river

Our

courfe was about

W.
foi-eft,.
t
-r

Mondav
and

26.

The

road lav throuo;h a thick

tlie hills

to the right and left

were nearer than they

were vefterday.

The
in a

people fay tigers arc numerous.

at the entrance into

"We encamped

mangoe grove

the village of Burramool.

is

The

fituation of this place

fide approximating,

very romantic: the

hills

on either

leave only a fmall fpace, through which the

Mahanuddy

flows in a winding courfe, and form the pafs of the Bur-

ramool, which they juftly ftyle the Weftern gate of the

country dependant on Cuttae.

This village, and the ad-

jacent country, called DufpuUah, for about fourteen cofs,

belongs to

Zemindar, whofe ftrong fituation has rendered

him

almoft independent of the Merhattahs : and the pre-

fent Rajah of Nagpore, Ragojee, has given

up the confi-

deration of his peihkufli, or tribute, and conferred

upon

him the

Nifiiaun and Meraukib colours and arms, on con-

dition that he will grant free egrefs and regrefs to his fubjects over his fide of the

Burramool

Pafs.

The Zemindar's
379

HtLEs.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
_

zi

379
vakeel came in the evenino;.

He feemed
us,

rather to deafk. it:

mand

complimentary prefent from

him, that
if

than

but

v/e told

he would go on with us

to the next

llage, at

CuiTumgurh, and behaved himfclf properly, we

let

would not

him depart
at

unfatisfied.

He

left us,

and

promifed to fend guides

twelve o'clock at night,

when

we
21

intended marching.
'Inefday 27.

When we
g^^iides,

arofe,

w^e

fent people into

the village to eet

but thev refufed to come until

It

daybreak, and appeared to be very turbulent.

fortunately moonlight
a
;

was

and the baggage, preceded by

reft

Jemadaur and twelve Sepoys, and followed by the

on without oppofition.

as a rear-guard, v/ent

The

road

for fix miles

for

is

very good, v/ithout any perceptible afcent;

it is

two miles

indiiferent

and the remainder of

is

the diftance, to the fummit, for four miles,

very

rocky and bad, and

for the laft

500 yards very deep.

AVhcn

There
I

are

two

hills

on each

fide of the ghaut.

had arrived within two miles of the fummit the moon

and
as I
-

fet,

had

left all the lights 2

with the baggage I

400

2>

JOURNAL OF A
to feel for the p:\th with

*"^'^^^-

400
was obliged
I

my

hands

when
it

paifed the tank, called Pudumtallai, on the top,

I

was few

dark.

iinderiland that there

it

is

chokey of

pvkes there, and that

is

the eaitern extremity of the

zemindary of the Rajah of Boad, with

whom the Mer-

hattahs have entered into the fame mutual contraft as

with the Zemindar of Dufpulluh.

The

dcfcent from

Pudumtallai to CulTumgurh, near which

is

we encamped,
fort:
it is

(jradual

and

eafv.

There

is

bamboo

out

of the high road.

We were obliged to dig

There
is

for water

on

the bed of a nullah.

a tank in the village,

where the elephants went

bad.

to wafli,

but the water was

inclined to the

Our

courle was irrec^ular, but

we 11 ward.
JVednefday 28.

The

road was good:

we

croiTed the

j2

beds of two nullahs, which were broad, and palled two

villages, the lall called Beinfghorau, at feven miles

from

Cuffumgurh, and encamped

on the banks of the
Ihurjday 29.
river.

at the village of

Pungurha,

Courfe W.

N.Vn'".

The

road was very good, and in ge-

12

424

MILES.

ROUTE TO NAGFORE.
neral led through a thick wood.

45

424
After croiTing the beds
the country

of two nullahs
is

we

paiTed

Ramgurh, where
in a

more open, and encamped

it,

mangoe grove about

river,

two miles beyond

which
ance.
is

clofe

upon the banks of the

rocky and deep, and bears

forty minutes
pafi:

a beautilul appear-

At

four o'clock

A. M. there

was a

total eclipfe

of the moon.

Courfe W.S.W.
We
is
:

10

Friday 30. open.

The

road was excellent and the country

We

crolTed the beds of

at

two dry nullahs, which

palTed

were broad,

about three miles diitance.

by the
in the

village of Quoid, to the right,

which

fortified

country manner with clumps of bamboos

we

ar-

rived at

Boad

at fix

o'clock. Courfe nearly

river takes
is
:

N.W. owing
will be

to a turn

which the

and

it

found

the diretion of the road the river, as water

Saturday,
is

governed by the fituation of

fcarce in that country.

May

i.

Halted
vifit
;

at

Boad.
is

The Rajah

paid us a

he

an old man, and of

very decent deportment: he came in a palankeen, and

had the Chetz, Nilhaun, and Merautib, and a number

434

C4

JOURNAL OF A

milks.

434
of people attending him.

He

is

a Rnipoot,

and

his famil}'

has heen in poficliion of Boad for a long fcries of years.

His country

is

a fine valley,

and the inhabitants appear

to

be rather numerous than othervvife.

Boad extends from

the Burramool Gaut to the eaftward, to the juntion of

the Tail

Nudde with

the

Mahanuddy

to the weil;vvard,
hills

and

is

confined on north and fouth by the

on each
is

lide of the river.

The

villag-e

isfmall: there
objefts I
;

bam-

boo

fort.

The only remarkable

faw were fome

pagodas, dedicated to the

Maha Dcu
light,

the figures carved

on the outfide were very

any thing of the

and better executed than

It
is

fort I ever faw.

curious to obferve,

that in OrifTa the bramins do not officiate in the pa-

godas, but the gardeners.

In

my

walk

this

evening

met with

a bramin, an intelligent

man; he
ill

told

me

that

the Rajah jMuddoo Soodur was very

obeyed, and that

he received no revenue from

fmall

his country,

and only a

amount

in

kind for the

ufe.

of himfclf and family,

villages in the imnic-

which was paid from fome of the

diate vicinity of Boad.

434

MILES.

ROUTE TO XAGPORE.

25

434

He

faid

it

was othervvife during the government of the

Rajah's brother,

who

died about two years ago

he was
tri-

dreaded by

all

the petty Zemindars, and received a

bute equal to

5000 rupees per annum.

Country open, and
fine road.

17

Sunday
village of

2.

PaiTed the

Comarhara
Crofl'ed
:

to the right, at about four miles

from Boad.

the

Sunklee
is

Nuddee, a

clear
it,

ftream, ankle deep

there

a fort

and a village near

lide.

called Mirzadhore, fituated

on the hither

From

thence the road

a great

lies

through
:

a thin foreft, in

which I faw
it

number of deer
to a plain,

when we had

got clear of
is

we

came on

on which Byraghur

fituated; but
fai'ther,

finding no flicker

we proceeded two

miles

and

encamped under the fhade of fome peepul and dauk

trees.

There
;

is

a jeel
is

and a well of water, which are

both bad but there

did not fee
till

a tope near the river fide, which

we

we had encamped.

The Rajah

of Boad

had
at

fent a

man

along with us, and ordered the people

Byraghur

to fell us provifions;

and

we

received great

451

26

JOURNAL OF A
from
all

MtLEs-

civility

his people.

Our
was

courfe for the firR part

was due

W.

latterly S.

W.
in general open,

Mo't'idaj 3.

The country was

it

and
the

13

where there was jungle

right

thin.

The
croffed

hills to

and
at

left

were

diftant.

We
at

the

Baug

Nudde

about four miles from Byraghur, and nine

it

miles beyond

the Tail

Nudde,

its

confluence with

the

Mahanuddy,

three quarters of a mile to the S.E. of

Sohnpoor, near which

we encamped

in a pleafant

man-

goe tope.

Our

courfe was nearly

Pirrit

W.

and by

S.

The

Rajah,

Singh, a hoy of about ten years

vifit in
is

of age, came and paid us a

the evening.
in the

The

management of
Dewaun, an

all

the bufinefs

hands of the

OrilTa bramin.

They complain much of

army under the com-

the licentioufnefs of a Merhattah

mand

of Bundhoo Jee, the nephew of

;

Maipuh Raou,
entreated

the governor of Ravpore

and the

Dewaun

Mr. Forller

to reprefent their fituation at

Nagpore, and

procure redrefs.

The

inhabitants

of the

countries

which we have

464

MILES.

ROUTE TO

NAGPORI'^,.

27

464
hitherto paiTed through flyle themfelves Woreas, or natives of OrilTa.
-a

They

are a fierce people, and polTefs

;

confiderable

degree of perfonal courage

they are
:

commonly armed with bows and

latter are generally carried

arrows, or fwords

the

naked, and are broad

at the

end and narrow

in the middle.

They have

a rooted an-

tipathy againft the Merhattahs, and frequently boaft of

,

the numbers they have

for

flain.

The

latter are too ftrong

them

in the plain, but

they can

make themfelves

very formidable to cavalry in the woods.

16

Tuefday 4.
pore, which
is

We

ftruck out of the ufual road to

to

Naggo by

by Sumbulpoor and Saringurh,

diilrit,

the Burrofumber

which

is

{horter

by

fix flages

than the former.

After

we had got

clear of the
trees.

town

our road led through a jungle of low

When we
twelve

had travelled

fix

miles

we came

to a tank and a village,

:

to the left of the road,

called Baunkberja

at

miles another tank and a few huts.

We croiTed the beds

is

of feveral dry nullahs, and water

in

general

to be

found by digging

for

it.

After going through an extent

E 2

480

a8

JOURNAL OF A

mh-es.

480
of nineteen miles of jungle and wood, and pafllng two
deferted villages,
I

arrived at Luchinpoor, and fat

down

in expeftation that the party

would come up

but after
that

waiting two hours, a fervant came and told

Forller

me
It

Mr.

had encamped four miles

I

in the rear.
fort,

was then

exceflively hot, and

rode up to the

and requefted

the Kelladar to give

me

flicker

he gave

me

an out-

houfe to remain
civil,

in,

brought
let

me

milk, and was very

It is
is

but would not

me go

into the fort.

is

of
a

mud.

The country round about

open

there

ftream of water about half a mile to the north of the

fort,

and

a tank of fine

water near

it.

remained

till

near five o'clock, and returned where Mr. Forfter was

encamped under fome peepul-trees.

They

had- been

obliged to dig for water in the bed of a nullah.^

courfe was

Our
1

W^
5.

and by N.

Wednejday

We pafled through lefs jungle tb-day.

;

%-

The

hills to

the right fcarcely difcernible

thofc to the

left near.

We
4

palTed a deferted village, after having

travelled

about ten miles, and encamped at another

492

MILES.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE
deferted village, called

29

492
Tintulgoun,
fituated

on the
is

banks of the

Aung Nudde,

oppofite to which there

another village, called Dongrapalle.

the

The channel of
There
which
is

Aung Nudde

is

about

200 yards broad.

are only pieces of ttanding water at this feafon,

are very good.

The guides informed me

the fource

to

the welhvard, at a great diflance.

to

The

country appears

have been cultivated to the extent of fome miles round

this village,

and

it is

only a few months fince the inha-

bitants

have

fled into the hills,

which was

at

the ap-

proach of Bundhoo Jee's army.

12
iChurfday 6.

The

road lay through an open country.

After advancing about four miles,

we came

to

Hurbunga,
it,

which we found

totally deferted;
in

and a mile beyond

we faw Moorfond

the fame condition.

fell

Here the
faid

guides from Lucheep

on their knees, and

they

would go on

if

we

ordered them, but that they would

return at the peril of their lives.

They

pointed out

the road, which was flraight and well beaten, and

we

went on alone

to a village called Saulebautte,

where we

504

30

JOURNAL OF A
nixiiler

milks.

504'
found one family, and we pciTuaded the
after

of

it,

much

entreaty, to fliow us the road to the next vil-

lage.

He

conducted us to Phafur, where we procured

two men, who brought us on to Doorka.

This village
I

did not appear to have been long deferted, and

imagine

the people mull have

left it at

our approach.

We
we

in-

llantly placed a guard of

Sepoys to prevent our fervants

for

from pulling down the houfes

firewood

and

fent

the Bunnies, or grain people, with the guides, to

village about three miles off, called Huldee,

where they
I

got plentifully fupplied with every thing, and

perfuaded, that
this
if

am

any Englifli gentlemen were to travel

way

again, they

would not

find the people appre-

henfive of being plundered.

I recollecSt at

Sohnpoor,
us, there

amongft the number of perfons collefted round

was a bramin. who made the

followino- obfervation in

the courfe of fome converfation

Said he, "

we had with him

beyond
traft
fea,

You

are natives of a region

and

have made yourfelves mailers of a large

ill

of country

India,

and we are

fitting

round you without dread and

504

MILES.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
in an

31

amicable manner.

When

the Merhattahs,

who

profefs the
tory,

fame religion

w^ith us,

come
;

into our terri-

we

feek for refuge amongil the hills

our herds and

flocks are

plundered by them, and our temples even

not

left

unviolated."

I could not help feeling a

degree of force in the bra-

min's fentiments, though he might have intended what CD O

'

he

faid

only as a compliment

and

was happy

to find

the people in general impreffed with a good opinion of the juftice of the BritiHi government in India.
courfe to this village was weir.

Our
is

N.
left,

B. There are feveral roads which turn off to the

but the high road

in a tank,

is

that to the right.

There
is

good water

and the
it.

Aung Nudde

about

half a mile to the north of

12

Friday'].

The

road was good:

thofe to the
left

the

hills

to

the

right difcernible,
crofTed the

more

diltant.

We

bed of the Moneadur Nullah about two miles

at fix.

from Doorka, and the x\ung Nudde

fur-ther

Two miles
got-

went through Auglypore, where our people

i^

516

32

JOURNAL OF A
:

mii.es.

fupplied with grain

pafled

by Babopaulle, where there

at a defcrted vil-

were only a few huts, and encamped

lage,

two miles beyond

it,

called TellingapauUe, to the

Touthward of which

is tlie

Aung Nudde.

The country

was

in

general open, and appeared favourable for cul-

tivation,

and where there was jungle

fine

it

was

thin.

We

faw feveral herds of deer with

Courfe to Auglypore
Saturday
8.

branching horns.
S.

W.

from thence

W.
16

Palled Sarungpore at nine miles from

TellingapauUe, and Jumlah (where the Bunnies got fupplied with grain), at twelve, and

encamped

at

Donga

Ghaut, to the
the

S.

W.

of which

we
is

again

met with

Aung Nudde.

The

country

open, there are

marks of

cultivation in

many

places,

and we faw fomq

firfl

lar^e droves of cattle.

Our
W.

courfe for the

ten miles

was N.

W.

latterly S.

Sunday

9.

CrofTed the

Aung Nudde

pafTed Poalat

13

goun

to the left, at about

two miles, and Bobra

feven. CrofTed the bed of the

Komrea Nudde

at ten,

and

encamped

in a fine grove of bur, tamarind,

and peepul

545

MILES.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
trees,

33
is

545
called Burkale, near

which there

a jeel of

water.

The

road was good, and lay in general through

a thin jungle.

The

hills to

the

left

very near.

Courfe
The
road
a

w. s.w.
20
Mo7iday 10.

CroiTedthe Komrea Nudde.

from thence had a wild appearance, and led through

forefl over a

low ghaut

at

the foot of the

hills for

near

eight miles, at which diftance the road leads off to the

left to

the hill on which the Burrofumber Rajah lives.

is

There

no water to be met with except

in

one place, near

two miles beyond the road which leads

to

Burrofumber.

Mr. Forfter and myfelf having procured guides, took

one, and proceeded

beyond the people but he, miftaking

;

the road,

conduced us

to a fmall village, inhabited

by

mountaineers,

who

fled at our appearance, but returned

again in about two hours, making a moft hideous noife,

dancing, and beating their axes on the ground.

We

judged the ihouting would bring more

only a few fervants with us,
a retreat without bloodlhed

and, as
it

we had

we thought
:

befl to attempt

but
F

we found

at this

crilis

S^S

.7<j,

JOURNAL OF A
gone to water about half a mile
off,

mtlus.

that the horfes were

and that thefe favages were ready to draw their bowihings, and
reftrain

we were

obliged to prefent our firelocks to

them.

In the

mean time our

on
it

horfes

coming up,
In the rear

we

fent the palankeens

firlV,

and kept

ourfelves on horfeback, as

was the only quarter from.

and we fortunately got into

which they could attack

us,

the high road, after going through two or three miles of

bamboo

jungle, which

they

fired,

no doubt with an

intention to cut off our road.

Their language was alit

moft unintelligible to us

but

fliouM appear from the

frequent ufe of the word " Burgah" that they took us

for Merhattahs,

which

it

implies, and perhaps expefled

that

we

fliould

plunder their village.

We

found the

people encamped on the banks of the Teeree Nullah, a

running ftream, which flows to the right.

a

There was

good fliade. Our courfe was S.W.

N. B. There

is

water to the right and

left

of the

road for three miles before you

come

to the nullah.

Travellers ought to be careful in going through this

567

MiiEs.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
country
:

3j

the

hills

are full of robbers, and they are a

daring fet of fellows.

We

ought to have flopped

vifit

at Burrofumber, to have

received a

from the Rajah.

A prefent of fome broadto be

cloth and a

few trinkets might have difpofed him

favourable to Europeans in future, and been inltrumental

to
J

keep

this

road always open in cafes of emergency.

"Tuefday

1 1.

Our road was very good and

broad, and

the country

more open.
at

We

left

the

hills,

and crolTed

the Auno;

Nudde

about half a mile from the Teeree

Nullah

and

at a lliort diflance

beyond

It

we

fell in

with

a party of Bunjaree people, v/ho had fifteen bullocks

loaded with
fully,

grrain,

&c.

they returned with us cheer-

and brought us to a place called Mufankoonda,

village,

where there was no

deep
hole.

but

fliade,

and water in a

This place belongs to the Sumbulpoor

country, which feems to intrude itfelf here between

Ruttunpoor and Burrofumber.

The Teeree Nullah

forms the weflern boundary of the

Berea Rajah's country (the Burrofumber Rajah).

577

'

36

JOURNAL OF A
There
is

miles.

577
a village called Hurrinbaub, about four miles
to the left of the

from the high road

Teeree Nullah,
fall

which

is

held facred by the Hindoos on account of a

;

of water

and the bramins who

refide there have four

villages allotted

them by the Rajahs of Berea, Patna%

and Sarunorurh.
Wednefday 12.
defcent.

Fine open country, with a gradual

15

Crofled a fmall nullah, in which there was

water, and a nudde called Joong.

for about fix miles afcended,

Our road from thence

at Soor-

and we encamped

mul, inhabited by Gondesf

courfe for the
firll

The water
and by
S.
;

is

bad.

Our
on

part

was

W.

and

latterly

W.
*
him.
'\

and A

W.

and by N.

jungle Rajah in the vicinity of the Berca one, and dependant

Gondwauna,

or the country of the Gondes, extends from about

fcventy miles north of the

the
diftri<Sls

Narbudda

as

low down to the fouthward as

of Nagpore and Ruttunpoor.

The

natives are

a hardy, quiet

people, and good cultivators.

fowls,

They

profefs thcmfelves

Hindoos, but eat

and do not abftain from

bull.

flefh in general, except that of the ox,

this part

cow, or

When

Aurungzebe reduced

of the Decan he

obliged numbers of them to

become Muflulmans,

wiLESv

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
l%urfday
IT,.

37

592 lO

The

road good.

Went

through feme
at

jungle

pafled the village of Caufebara,

at four,

two miles
at a

from Soormul, and Pauplie

place called Pundrepauney,

and encamped
is

where there

fome {landfirll:

ing water in the bed of a nullah.

Courfe,

part

W.

and by N.

latterly
is

N. and by

W.
map on
the high
lies

N.

B. Nurrah
is

laid

down

in the

road.There

a place bearing that

name, which

off the high road, to the left

beyond Caufebara; none

on the road we went.

o

Friday 14.
thin jungle
:

The

road was good, and led through a

at the foot

we encamped

of a rock near

a village called

Khullaree. Courfe

W.

and by N. and

N. and by
j^

W.
For the
;

Saturday 15.

firft

ten miles the road led

a fine, exten-

through a thick jungle

five,

we then entered

cultivated plain, with the villages of

to the right

Mahfawen
thefe

and Beejpor

and
is

left

beyond

we

pafled Karora,

where there

a tank of water, and en-

626

357933

3*

JOURNAL OF A
at Balfoura, at

>fit.E3.

626 camped
which place we found httle {hade
and bad water.
Sunday 16.
cultivated plain

Courfe N. W.
The
:

road, as yefterday, led over a fine

13

crofled the

Mahanuddy
is

at

two miles

from Ballbura; the channel

about 300 yards broad.

PafTed the villages of Pauragoun and Aring, at three and

fix

miles beyond

it.

The

latter

is

a large and flourifliing

Sec.
it.

place,

where there are many merchants, weavers,.

is

There

a moflr extenfive
in a fine

girm of mafigoe -tree's ndaf

We

encamped

mangoe grove on
to the

the banks of

a tank near Rewa.

Courfe

Mahanuddy N.W.

from thence

W.
whom
and
I

All the perfons with

have had any conconcur in

verfation, both at this place

at Balfoura,
is-

faying that the fource of the

Mahanuddy

about thirty

gond

cofs,

equal to

20

Englifli miles, to the S.

W.

from
in a

hence, at a place called Sehawa, and that

field at the foot

it rifes

of a

hill.

Monday

17.

The

road led over the plain.

Piffled
I

16

Nowagoun

at fix miles

from Rewa.

It

was dark, but

^SS

witBs.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
could perceive trees and a tank.

^
is

There

number of

villages fcattered all over the plain, but

none that either

affords water or ibelter fufficient for a large party.

We

encamped

to the eaftward

of Raypore on the banks of

a tank, called

Bygenaut Ka Tallow, the only good tank

near the place.

Tue/clajy

Courfe W. and by
Halted
at

S.

latterly

W.

18.
is

Raypore.

Raypore

a large town, and

numbers of merchants
There
is

and wealthy people refide there.

lower part of the walls of which

is

a fort, the

of ftone, the upper

of
is

mud

it

has five doors and feveral baftions.

There

a fine-looking tank built round with mafonry, but the

is

water

bad.
is

Ruttunpoor
and

in general a
its

very

fertile, fine

country,
rice,

may

be ftyled, from
thefe

plentiful

produce of

the

Burdwan of

parts.
is

The widow
and

of Bembajee,

Moddajee's brother,
fpet
is

Hill alive,

all oftenfible re-

ihown
is

to her;

but the executive part of the go-

vernment

in the

hands of Mayput Raou, a bramin

colleftions of

from Nagpore.

The

Raypore, including

^SS

4.0

JOURNAL or A
loaded cattle, are only 70,000 rupees, and

iii.ij

tlie toll vipon

tliofe
tlie

of

all

Ruttunpoor not above 1,50,000.

During
to

government of Bembajee the revenue amounted

or fix lacks of rupees
;

five

but

was unable

to learn

the caufe of this aftonilliing decreafe.

The

people were

remarkably
orders that

civil

for

it

feems the Rajah had givea

with every thing

we

iliould be fupplied

we

wanted.

^,{^edfief day

i().

Plain and open country.

CrolTed the

14

Kharavn

river eight miles

from Raypore, and palTed the

;

village of

Komrie a mile

further

to the right of

which

there

is

a roadlea<ding to Nagpore by the LanjeePafs, and

left

another to the
latter,

by the Dongur Ghaut: we took the

five miles, to the village of

and advanced about

Suriickdeh.

There

is

no

fhelter,
S.

but a ilream of good

water near.

Courfe W. and by
20..

and

latterly

S,

W.
12

Ihurjday
villages,

Plain

open country: pafled

feveral

and crofled a nullah, in which there was fome

ftanding water.
lage of Doorg,

We

encamped near the

fort

and

vil-

There

are feveial fields of paun,

and

68?

MTfLEs.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
the adjacent

41

681
country appears
well
cultivated.

The

Komalilidar, or head
vifited us,

man

of the place, came out and

civil.

and was very

Courfe W. and by
Sheo Nudde

S.

and
1 2

latterly
\

W.
.

Friday 2

Plain open country.

After travelling a
;

mile and a half,

it

we

croiTed the

they fay

takes

its

rife

from the fouthward, about

fifty miles,

and

falls into

the

Mahanuddv

at

'"

* * * *.
It
is

There was
about 250

no ftream, but pieces of ftanding water.

yards broad.
Piepurfain.
villages,

There

is

a village on the banks, called

The

plain

from thence

is

crowded with
is

the largeft of which, called Purfool,

feven

miles from Doorg.

We flopped at Hurdwah. Courfe

half,

S.W.
1 2

Saturday
pafTed

2 2

After advancing a mile and a

we

Mohurrimpoor.

We then began to approach the

little

jungle, and paffed the village of Caufepaul; a

way
on

beyond which we turned

our
left

to the right, leaving Bclhare

hand, and encamped on the banks of a tank of

705

41

JOURNAL OF A

mjle^.

very muddy, bad water, near the fmall village of Porinna.

Courfe W. and by
Our road
S.

S.

and

S.

W.
For the

Sunday 23.
firft

led through jungle.

S.

i*

three miles

we went W. and by

and

for five miles

nearly

W.

after

which we turned out of the high

at

road to the

left,

and encamped

the village of Cheepa,

where we got provided with

day.

grain,

and remained

all

We

marched again

in

the

evening, and the

road led through a foreft of large trees.

is

Dongur Ghur

off the road

to the right, about

eight miles from

;

Cheepa.

There was formerly

a fort there

but both

that and the village are in ruins.

We encamped on the
it,

banks of a dry nullah, two miles beyond

in

which we

were obliged
ably good.

to dig for water.

S.

The

road was remark-

Courfe

W.

and

latterly

W.
There
is

Dongur Ghur appears

hills
is

to be one of the fouthernmoft

of the range of which Lanjee forms a part.

no afcent or defcent of confequence, and there

hills

number of detached

fcattered

round about.

This

range appears to extend from the north to the fouth-wefl-,

723

WILIS.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
and
forms
the
natural
diviiion

4j

between Nagpore

and Ruttunpore, or Chehtees Ghur.

The Rajah

of

Ruttunpoor was called the Rajah Chehtees Ghur, or the

Rajah of the Thirty-fix Forts,
bulpoor
is

as the

Rajah of SumRajah of

llyled

Rajah Autaragurh, the

Eighteen Forts.

14

Monday

24.

We

found, that though the road

we

were upon led

villages to be

diret to

Nagpore, yet there were no

;

met with

we

therefore, after croffing

the bed of the nullah on the banks of which

we had been

encamped, ftruck off through the

eaft,

foreft to the fouth-

and got into another Bunjaree road, for there are

that bear that

many

name, and travelled nine miles

nearly fouth-weft, to the Jhoora Nullah, in which there

is

a fine fi:ream of water

is

near

it

the village of Mahl-

dongra

fituated, to the left of the road.

We

pro-

ceeded to Bunjaree, about eight miles further, and en-

camped.

There

is

plenty of water in large holes, which

appear to have been

made by the

torrents during the rains.

Mr.

Forfter pitched under a paukur-tree, the branches of

737

44

JOURNAL OF A
bells,

miles.

737
which were hung round with old
jaree people offer

which the Bun-

up

to

CauUe, the goddefs of deflruction,

been fortunate.

when

their journey has

Out of

a frolic

I offered

up

a tin canifler, and infcribed the date of our

it,

encampment upon
There
carried
are evident

and Mr. Forfter

facrificed a goat.

marks of cultivation ha\'ing been

diftant period in the country

on

at

no very

we

came through, and

feveral fpots

of ground appear to

have been cleared of their wood

Bunjaree
its
is

for that purpofe.

it

fo

very high a fpot of ground, that

caufes

neighbouring rivers to take very different courfes

from each other.

miles, the

To

the foutli-well of

it,

about eleven

Baug Nudde runs and

into

joins the Bein

Gunga,

which

falls

the

Gunga Godaveri, which difemMafulipatam.

bogues into the fea

Jhora

at

To

the eaft the

Nudde meets
into the

the Sheo

Nudde

before noticed,
itfelf into

and runs

Mahanuddy, which empties

the fea at the

Huejday 25.

Bay of Coojungh.

The

firft

part of the road led through a

thick foreft, feveral fpots of which were however quite

MILES.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
clear of
hills,

4c

748
wood, to the village of Doortura, when the
to the right

which were

and

left,

became

nearer,
to be

and feemed to form a femicircle.

They appear

detached from thofe of Lanjee and Khyraghur.

road onwards was irregular, and winding amongft

The
hills

and woods, without either any acclivity or declivity, and

admits of the paffage of country
loofe ttones,
cattle in a
carts.

There

are

fome

which would be troublefome

to

loaded

dark night, but

we were

favoured by the
vil-

light of the
lage,

moon.

After paffing a deferted fmall

to the right,

we encamped on
is

the bank of the

Baug Nudde.
bottom
is

There

only fome Handing water; the

rocky.

The

general inclination of our courfe

was

to the fouthward, but very irregular.

We

were in

great want of grain, and the cattle and people had only
half allowance.

14

JVednefday 26.

The

firft

part of the road led through

a thinner foreft than

what we had pafled through yefleft.

terday, with ranges of fmall hills to the right and

At
762

three miles from the

Baug Nudde we

crofled the

46"

JOURNAL OF A
in

miles.

762
Goredau,

which there was water, and pafled

a deferted

village of the

fame name.

The

jungle from thence to

thick, and

the village of Huldee,

the road flony, with

fix miles,

became more

fome

acclivity.

We

procured

guides from thence, and proceeded to Cheefgurh, which

is

iituated in a fine cultivated valley,

it is

and there

is

a tank

of water, but

muddy, owing

to the buffaloes

which

wallow

in

it.

Our

courfe was winding, but upon the

to the fouthward.

grood deal whole we came a o

"thurfday 27.

The

road for a mile was very good,

14

when
left,

arriving at the foot of a hill

we

turned off to the

hill,

and went over a narrow road on the ridge of a

with a precipice for a few hundred yards to the

left.

The

furrounding trees were fmall and flunted in their

growth, from the parching heat of the rock.

As we

advanced the road became

better,

and

at feven miles

from Cheefgurh there

is

an open fpot of ground, where

we faw

a Bunjaree

encampment; they have the water of

is

the Gaurvey Nudde, the fource of which

near.
till

Onyou
776

wards there

is

nothing but

wood and

jungle,

MILES.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
come
by
the
to Poulandre,

4^

776
which
it

is

an open fpot furrounded

hills.

We

pafled

to the right,

and proceeded to
fhade, but

Gaurvey Nudde, where we had good

were

obliged to dig for our water.

Our
it

courfe was very

winding, but inclined to the weftward.

10

Friday 28.

The

road led through a jungle and be-

tween

hills for

eight miles,
at

when

became more open,

and we encamped
live lake

Nowagoun.

Near

it is

an exten-

of water, which you fee to the right of the road

to the village
hills to
:

for

two miles before you come

deep hollow between the
is

it is

fituated

in a

the eaft and weft,

and
ters

confined by a bank to the northward.

it

The waby
feveral

of

are diftributed through the village

it Is

fmall channels, and

of great ufe to the cultivators

firft

on the dry
12

plain.

Courfe,

part

W.

latterly S.

W.

Saturday 29.

The road

led through a thin jungle.

pafTed Cheefa, and

At

feven miles from

Nowagoun we
:

at ten

Chandgherri, or Saungherri
I

the

laft is

the mofl:

populous place

have feen fince

j

I left

Cuttae.

There

is

a fort and a large tank

we encamped beyond it, on

the

"798

; ;

48

JOURNAL OF A

miles.

banks of the Chilbun Nudde, off the high road,

pleafant

mangoe
30.

grove.

Courfe

nearly

W.
10

Monday

Sheikh

Mahomed
fafliion,

Ally, with a party

of Sepoys, dreffed after our

and fome horfemen,

came out
Sheikh
to
is

to

meet us from the Rajah of Nagpore.

man, and has always been

The

a polite old

fent out

meet the

Encrlifli.

The

road led throuoh a thin o

jungle.

At

three miles from the Chilbun

village,
is

we

palTed a
it

wretched jungle
to Kenary,

and four miles bevond

came
is

which

large:

from thence the country

at

more open.
fliade

We

encamped

Maungley, under the

of fome mangoe-trees, planted in a row on the

a chan-

edge of a ftream of water, which flows through

nel cut to fupply the furrounding fields
:

it

comes out
a

of a large tank, as at Nowagoun.

There
to

is

Hindoo

temple on the bank of

it.

Courfe

Kenary

W.
20

from thence

S.

W.
The
road lay through a thick jungle for
carried

"Tuefday 31.

fome miles.

Mr. Davidfon and myfelf were

out of the road through the ignorance of the guides

828

MILES.

ROUTE TO NAGPORE.
when we found
it

49

828
again

we

palTed Kafulbarry at nine

miles from Maungley, Chiely at eleven, and Adara at

thirteen.

The
open.

country from Kafulbarry to the Beird-

gunga
ter,

is

Where we

crolTed there
;

was
is

little

wa-

but

it

was fweet and

clear

the channel
to Beltoa,

300 yards

broad.

The
is

country beyond

it

where we en-

camped,
villages.

a plain, finely cultivated,

at

and covered with

Beltoa, but

There was bad water

good

fhade.

Courfe W. and by N.
i.

14

Wednefday^ yune

The

road for near two miles led

croffed the

through a thin jungle.

When we

Aum

Nudde we found

the country more open,

the plain

finely cultivated, and a great

number of villages.
in

We

encamped

in a

mangoe grove near Kohy,

which there

was a well of good water.

8

Courfe W.
:

Thurfday

2.

The
is

road led over the plain, the proit

duce of which

wheat

was highly
all

cultivated.
it.

There

is

a great
at
3.

number of

villages

over

We

encamped
10
Friday

Teetur, in a mangoe grove.

Plain richly cultivated, and covered with
IT

860

50

JOURNAL OP A ROUTE TO NAGPORE.

fine villages.
eaft

We encamped

In a

mangoe grove

to the

of Nagpore.

iV".

B. Our hours of travelling, until the

3d of May,

were from two o'clock in the morning to feven, eight,

or nine, according to the length of the
fl:age
:

from the

23d of
fet,

May we

ufed to march half an hour before funat nine or

and encamp

ten o'clock.

We

fhould

have been unable

did,

to

have gone through the countries we

had we not had grain people and bullocks of our

own.

ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE,
Sec,
SCQ,

JNaGPORE,
capital of

fituated in

79 46

eaft longitude
is

from

Greenwich, and 21^ 49' north

latitude,
little

the prefent
to

Gondwauna*,
owing

name

known

Euit

ropeans, perhaps

to the

remote Ctuation of

from our fettlements, and

having been difmembered
territory in India, at

the

Rauj f of that name

before

we

pofTeiTed

any

which time the comparatively con-

fined ftate of the affairs of the

Company did

not lead to

geographical inquiries.
*

The

three ancient capitals of

Gondwauna were Gurry Mudlah, Gurry

*****,
-j-

and Deogur.
of a Raujah
is

The dominion

called a Rauj,

that of a

King

is

de-

nominated a kingdom.

52

ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE.
I

have taken no fmall degree of pains to afcertain the

;

boundaries of Gondvvauna

and though
I

I will

not pretend
is

to fay that the information

have procured

in

every

refpedl exaft, yet

it

may

ferve to give a general idea of

the extent of the country.

It is

not amifs to obferve, that the people of this place

are

by no means communicative, and very circumfpeft

Europeans, and
to collect
it

in giving information, particularly to

has coft
trifling

me

no fmall decree of trouble

what

information this account contains.

is

Gondwauna

bounded on the north-eail by an ima-

ginary line, drawn from the town of Beihare to the city

of Ruttunpoor
ginary
line,

on the fouth-eaft by fuch another imavillage

drawn from Ruttunpoor through the

of Soormul (fituated about five cofs to the north-eall of

Nurrah, which
tion of the
"Weft

lail: is

laid

down

in the

map), to the junc;

Oordah and Beingunga

river;

rivers

on the fouth-

by the Oordah

and on the north-eaft by

it

that chain of mountains which' feparates

from Malwa.

When Gondwauna was partly reduced by Aulumgwer,

ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE.

53

he obliged a great number of the natives, together with

the Rajah, to embrace the

Mahomedan

rehgion

and

the country remained for a feries of years in this fituation, the

as lord

Rajah paying a
:

fort

of homage to the Moghul,

paramount

when,

in the beginning of the pre-

fent century,

Ragojee Bhoofhla, defcended from the

great Sevagi, reduced the greateft part of

to the fouth of the

Gondwauna,

Nurbudda, with the province of

which he treated the Gonde
as
it

Eerar.

The

lenity with

Rajah deferves particular mention,

fhows a

trait

of

humanity
of

in the

Merhattahs worthy of the higheft pitch

civilization.

He

not only abftained from

all forts

of

perfonal violence, but allotted three

lacks of rupees

annually for the

fort for

Gonde Rajah's maintenance, and

by no means
as a

the

him

to live in,

confinement.
flill

Burhaun Shah, the fon of the con(]uered Rajah, has

handfome allowances, and the

fort to live in

and the

confidence which the late Moodajee placed in

great
:

him was
it

for

what could be

a greater

mark of

in the

aft, than putting his

family and

women

under his

54

ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE.
when he went upon any
did.
fur-

charge

warlike expedition

which he conftantly

Ragojee was the founder of Nagpore, which he

rounded

\vith a rampart,

it

being only an infignificant

it.

village appertaining to the fort prior to his capture of

It is fituated

on a

fine

high plain, which

fine

is

richly culhills

tivated,

and produces

wheat, and bounded by

to the north-wefl

and fouth.

The Nag Nudde,

name
to

a rivulet

running to the fouthward, gives

the town.

The
tiles,

houfes are generally meanly built and covered with

and the

flreets are
is

narrow and

filthy.

The

only

good building
and now
built

the palace, begun by the late Moodajee,

finilhing

by

his fon,

the prefent Rajah

it is

of a blue ftone dug out of a quarry in large

fkirts

blocks on the weflern

of the town.

The

prefent

Rajah, however, has deflroyed the grand efFeft which

would have been produced by the flone

mixing brick-work in the building.
large

alone,

by
is

inter-

There

a very

and deep tank* near the weft gate, called

* Pond.

Jumma

ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE.

55

Tallow, three fides of which are handfomely built up

with mafonry

and the Rajah has

a foundery to the

fouthward of the town, called Shukerderri, where he

cafts tolerably

good

brafs guns.

Thefe, with fome few

in

gardens of the Rajah's, neatly laid out

walks planted

with cyprefs-trees, and interfperfed with fountains, are

the only places of note at Nagpore.
It

{hould appear that Major Rennell (Memoir, fecond

edition, 4to.

page 12)

is

not perfeftly clear with regard

{late,

to the idea he has

all

formed of the Merhattah

that

the chiefs

owe

a fort of obedience to the Paifliwah,

refembling that of the

German

Princes to the Emperor.

in the
call

The

account

heard from the

is

Dewaunf

Durbar

4!

was, " That there

a perfon

whom

they

the repre-

fentative of the Rauj,

who is
all

kept

in the fort

of Sattarah,

and he

is

treated with

imaginable refpeft
is

when he
only upon

makes

his

appearance at Poonah, which

;

particular occalions

and when

at Sattarah

he

is

fupplied

with every luxury, and magnificently attended.

f-

On

MIniiler.

X Court.

S6

ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE.

the demife of this image of governtnent the handfcme

foil

of fome poor
Paifliwah
is

man

is

chofen to fupply his room.

to the

The

prime miniller

Merhattah
in chief

ftate

the Rajah of Nagpore, Sec.

commander

of the

armies

and they,

as well as the reft of the chiefs, call

;

themfelves fervants of the Rauj

and none acknow-

ledges the leaft immediate authority of the Paiiliwah, but

they are

all

bound

in cafes

of neceffity to render mutual

affiftance to

each other, for the public good of the con-

ftitution."

But the

fine

extenfive country which the

Paiiliwah occupies, together with the advantage of play-

ing the Sattarah puppet, will always give

him

influence

with the other

chiefs.

The

prefent Rajah, Rogojee Bhooflila, the grandfon

of the Conqueror (Ragojee the Firft was fucceeded by

his eldeft fon, Jannojee,

who was fucceeded by

his bro-

ther Sabage,

who was

flain in battle I

by Moodajee, the

father of the prefent Rajah.

have not the particulars

of their

hiftories),

does not feem to be either adapted to

is

civil or military

bufmefs ; he

generally drelTed plainly

ACCOUNT OF NAGPORL.
in white,

57

but wears collly diamonds and pearls

is

his

behaviour
is

courteous to ftrangers.

His great penchant

for elephants

and mares.
I

He

has about 200 of the

;

former, the finell

ever beheld

and they are fed

Sec.

fo

fumptuoufly with fugar-cane, treacle, ghee,

and

not unfrequently fowl pallow, that they become almoft

mad

with

luft,

breaking their chains and doing great

is

mifchief,
fport.

which

coniidered by the Merhattahs as fine

The

principal people about the

Rajah

are,

his

brother,

Munnea Bapoo,
Caulloo, the

a very quiet

young man

Bhowaunny
and
his

Dewaun, a

flirewd old fellow,

nephew, Pondrang, the commander and pay;

mafter of the army

Siree

Dhur, the Monihee

and
con-

Mahadajee Lefhkery, the Rajah's confident, who

sulted on
all

is

occafions.

The Rajah
pay of which,
is

does not keep up above 10,000 horfe, the

as is the

cullom among

all

native princes,
battalions of

irregularly

diilributed.

He

has
;

two

Sepoys, armed and clothed like ours

and although they

formerly belonging

have been drilled by black

officers,

58

ACCOUNT OF NAG PORE.

Nabob of Lucknow,
or our fervice, yet
I

either to the

they go through their exercife very badly, and

think they will be able to

do not

make

Hand

againll

any body

of native Sepoys difciplined by European oiKcers.

I

have heard that the

including

total

coUedlons of the Rajah's

dominions,

Ruttunpore

and Cuttae,

only
I

amount

to feventy lacks of rupees per

annum.
is

will

not, however, pretend to affirm that this

I

exaft,

though
for the
it,

do not think

it

can

much exceed

that

fum

Rajah's country, notwithftanding the great extent of

does not contain a proportionable quantity of cultivated land to that which

It
is is

walle and occupied by forefts.

is

generally fuppofed that Nagpore

the capital of
inhabitants

Berar.

This

is

evidently a miilake.

The

of Nagpore talk relatively of Berar as an adjoining

province, as

we do

of Bahar to Bengal
is

and

it

has been

(hewn
is

that

Nagpore

a city of late date.

I

Elichpour

the capital of Berar, by the accounts

it

have received
city,

from the natives, who reprefent

and much larger than Nagpore.

as a

very ancient

ACCOUNT OF NAGPORE.

59

A cuftom prevails in this town, which I cannot

taking notice
of,

forbear

becaufe

it

ferves to prove that long-

ufage will give a plaufibility to things feemingly the

moft prepofterous.

The bramins and

beft people at

Nagpore have women attendants upon

their families,

whom

they breed up from their childhood, and are called

Butkies, or Slauls.

They

attend on their mafters and

miftrefles during the day-time,

and are permitted

to

go

to

any man they pleafe

rich,

in the

night; fome of them

in general

become very

and they are

very hand-

fome, fine women.

Nagpore,
Auguft 20, 1790.

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
FROM

NAGPORE TO BENARES,
Y THE WAY OF

THE SOUHAGEE
1790.

PASS.

vmmmmmmmmB^m

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE^
&c. &c.

Monday, September
MILES

6,

1790.
at

-Left

Nagpore, and encamped

Kampty, imme-

diately after having crofled the

its

Kanaan Nudde^', below

junction with the Coila

is

Nudde.

The

fource of the

Kanaan Nudde
it falls

about 100 miles to the weftward, and

at or

into the

Beingunga

near the Lanjee Ghaut f.

;

It is a fine

ftream of water, but not deep

it

flows to

the right.

The

road was good, and led through culISI.

tivated fields.

Courfe
The
-}-

and by E.

15

Tuefday

'].

road was good, and led through fine

cultivated fields of jowaurt.

* Small river.

We

encamped

at

Ram-

pafs, or defile.

% Sort of grain.

24

64

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
is

mii.es.

24
tegh, which, amongil the Hindoos,
for they inform a place held facred
:

you

that

Ram

collefted his
at

army

there

prior to his expedition againll

lon.

Rawun
all

Lenka, or Cey-

The Hindoos

fuppofc

Europeans to be de-

fcended from Rawun, and they believe Ceylon to be an

immenfe mountain of

gold,

invifible

to

them.

The
and

place where the Hindoos offer

up

their facrifices

devotions

is

on a

hill to

the right of the high road, upon

is

which

a dewul, or temple,

erefted.

Courfe

inclining
little

half a point to the eallward of north, with very

deviation.

Wednefday
try

8.

For the fpace of two miles the coun- i^f

after

was open;
in

which we paffed through

trees

a thick

foreft,

which there were many

to

of teek and

fifToo*,

which brought us

Dongertaul; to the right of

which we encamped, near

a well of

good water, where

we had good

{hade

alfo.

We

crolfed the beds of

;

many
how-

rivulets in the jungle f,

fome of which were broad

* Both durable kinds of wood, particularly the former.

\
4

Wood,

or foreft.

Hindoftaune word.
39^

MILES.

FROM NAGPORE TO
ever,
I

BENARES.

65

391
did not inquire into their names, as they can only
at a

have water in them

time

when

the torrents pour

down from

the

hills,

when they

are found dry at this

feafon of the year

and

their courfes mull: confequently

even then be very

iliort.

Courfe very

little

to the eaft-

ward of north.
12
lljurfday 9.
at feven miles
;

Pafled the village of Ghurra to the

croffed the Pitaur

left

Nudde

(the

bed of
little

which

is

broad and rocky, and contained only a

water), at a fliort diftance

beyond the
left,

village,

and pafled

the village of Souwaufa to the

at nine miles

from

Dongertaul, and arrived at Paunehdhaur, fo called from

five ttreams

running together, two of which

we

crofl^ed,

and encamped on the banks of the fecond.

The

road

led through a thick foreft, with the exception of a

cultivated fields near the villages above noted, and

few was

rocky, with a fmall degree of afcent.

Courfe N. and
tree,

by E.
Whllft
I

was

fitting at breakfaft

under a

an old
feet,

man
Sii

eighty years of age threw himfelf at

my

66

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE

miles.

and told

me

that

liis

Ton's wife

was

afflicted

with a ter-

rible diforder,

which had

baffled the fkill of all the village

to give

doftors,
I told

and requeiled
I

me

him fome medicine.

him

was entirely unacquainted with medicine,

fhould be able to do his daughter-in-law no
in his requefl,
I I

and feared

good; but he perfilHng

file fliould

confented that
fliocked to fee

be brought:

when how was

fo

a beautiful

young woman, who was

!

reduced that fhe

could not fland without aid

in the jugular vein,

She had a violent pulfation

faid

and

flie

her menfes had long

pills,

been flopped.

gave her thirty mercurial

as I

and
it

de fired her to take two every night;

thought

probable that they might remove any obftruftions, from

which

it

appeared to

me

her diftemper proceeded

foul that they

and

I fincerely wifli

from
I

my

may

produce a

happy

effeft,
I

which

have no right to exped from

my

ignorance.

cannot exprefs the gratitude of the old

;

man and
with

his fon

they brought

me
it

comfits,

and flayed
difficulty

me

for

an hour talking, and

was with

they would leave me.

WILES.

FROM NAG PORE TO

Friday 10.
Pafled the village

BENARES.

67

61

of Koorie at eight

miles from Paunehdhaur.

foreft,
is

The
;

road led through a thick

and was rocky and bad

and beyond Koorie there

a fucceffion of ghauts,

of the fame

name with

the

village,

which alternately afcend and defcend; but the

acclivity being lefs than the declivity,

you get

into a

higher country, which brings you to

Magaum, where we
cultivated
fields

encamped.
round the

There
village,

is

number of
is

and the country

open.

We
7

had a great deal of rain

at this place.

Saturday 11.
three miles from

PalTed the village of Gopaulpore at

Mogaum.

The

road led over a plain,

to be well cultivated,

open country, that did not appear

but was covered with grafs, which feemed to be referved

for the large herds

of

cattle,

which we faw,
a mile,

to feed

upon.

Beyond Gopaulpore, about

we

pafled

through a thick jungle, which ends before you come to

Chowree, where we encamped.

about this village, which
appearance, with
hills to
is

The

country round

populous, has a beautiful

it,

the north and eaft of

2

at

751

68

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
d'lllai

miles

a confiderable
is

ce,

which leave a

fine plain, that

well cultivated, and interfperfed with fome fine large

trees.

There was

a great deal of water on the road,

its

and

my

tent

was double

ufual weight,

owing

to the rain

of yellerday, which occafioned the

llaae.

(hortnefs

of

the

Courfe N.
1 2.

Sunday

PafTed the village of Jnte at five miles

at (ix i^which has
falls
its

lo

crofTed the

Gunga

fource

feven
;

miles to the eallward, and

into the Btia

Gunga)

and pafTed the village of Dawule at eight, and cnc-Mnped

at Narrailah,

where there

is

a t;nk of

good

-vnter.

The
e

road led over a plain, and was very

late fall

m.'

of

rain.

There

are ranges of hiii^

't

and

left.

Courfe N.
13.

Monday

The

road led through a plain

;'^*-ry,

15^

which was, however, uncultivated, and was very roc^y

and flony, with an eafy acclivity
\

aiKl

we

crofTed lotre

nullahs % the banks of which were fleep.

At eleven milts

from Narrailah you came to Seunee Ciiowparah, ner.r

* Cuts, or water-courfes,

97^

i^Es.

FROM NAGPORE TO
which the country feems

BENARES.

97I
to be well tilled.

69

We

then

went through the town of Chowparah, and

Bein Gunga,
in the

croffed the

middle of
full

it,

the ftream of which

;

was

rapid,

and the bottom

of rocks
a

it

was, how-

ever, (liallow:

we encamped on
is

plain

beyond the

town.
iron,

This place

famous

for
is

the

manufacture of

a great quantity of which

is

imported into our

provinces, and

chiefly inhabited

by Afghans, more

of 15

whom

Ihall

be faid hereafter.

Courfe N.
fiilt

Tuefdav 14.

The

road for the

hills,

five miles

was

winding amongft the

and over low ghauts, which

a

were very llony, and carried us

ward.
ftony,

good deal
to

to the eall-

Onwards,

for

four miles,

Sajepoore,

was
this

though better than the former

part.

Under
is

village runs the Beejna, the

bottom of which

rocky,

and the ftream rapid,

is

at this feafon
rills

of the year, whiclx

increafed by

many

that pour

down

its

rocky
;

banks, with a noife that has an agreeable eife^b

fource
is

its

about ten miles to the wellward, and

into the

it

ultiI

mately

falls

Bein Gunga, but at what place

3

112

70

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
to learn.
;

mii.ks,

was unable
to

We

proceeded

fix

miles furtlier,

Lucknadown

two miles and

a half of the road to

which

led over a barren, rocky country,

and we palled

over one ghaut that was rather fleep.

into
a plain,

We

then got

open country, that appeared

laft

to be well
little

cultivated.

Courfe

eight miles north, with

deviation.
lage,

The
extent

country from Dongertaul to this

vil-

an

of feventy-one

miles

",

is

held
chief,

in

jaguerf by

Mahommed Umme

Khan, a Pitan

to

whofe father the great Ragojee, or Ragojee the

granted
it

Firll:,

in

reward

for fervices

during his redulion of of Berar.

Gondwauna and

the northern parts

Ma-

hommed Umme Khan refides at Seune, eight miles to the

eaihvard of Chowrie, and he feems to pay
tion to the
little

atten-

Rajah of Nagpore

for although I

had a

couple of the Rajah's jafouHs, or hircarahsj, with me,

*
I

am
and

ignorant of the breadth of

Mahomincd
it is

Umme

Khan's jaguer

from E.
miles,
'\-

t(j

W.
in

but do not imagine

any where equal to twenty

moft places
is

much

lefs,

grant of land

called a jaguer.
fpies.

^ Running footmen, or

ll2i

MrtBSv

FROM NAGPORE TO

BENARES.
I fliould

71

with his perwanneh, direling that

be provided

with guides, yet they were obliged to get a fecond per-

wanneh from Mahommed Umme,

by the Rajah's
exprefs order.

to

whom

they went

This feems to argue an

ftate

internal weaknefs in the

Merhattah

alluded

to,

that I

had no idea

of,

and appears to proceed from the

;

unwariike difpolition of the prefent prince

could a handful of Pitans
do- againft thofe

for

what

columns of

horfe with which the Rajah might overwhelm

them ?

The
with

above accounts for the number of Pitans to be met

in the countries

we have

paffed through,

who

for

the moft part are adherents to the Jaguerdar*.

12

Wednefday 1$.
try,

The

road led through an open coun-

with

little

jungle, and was not fo ftony as yellerday,

lefs,

and the afcent

except
in

but

it

did not appear to be cultivated,

infio--

the immediate vicinitv of three or four

nificant villages

we

palTed.

At

four miles from

Luck-

nadown you come

to a ftream called the Shur

Nudde,
of

which forms the northern extremity of the

* Holder of the jaguer.

territory

1241

72

JOURNAL OF A PvOUTE

mile?-

I24J
the Rajah of Nagpore, and the fouthern boundary of
that of BaUajee.
I

We

encamped

at

Doombah, where

found a party of Pitan horfe belonging to Ballajee,

to quell

which had come from Jubbilghur,

turbances
party

fome

dif-

among

the Gondes.

The Jemadaur of
and was

the
re-

came and
civil,

vifited

me

in the evening,
if

markably

and faid that

the rain ceafed in the

morning

(for

it

had poured

all

day),

he would accomhis

pany

me

for five or fix miles

with fome of

horfemen.

Courfe N. and by E.
Ihurfday i6.

The

road was very bad and

muddy
counfour

I2

where there were no

try,

flones, leading over a plain

grafs.

which was wild and covered with

At

miles from

Doombah we

paiTed the village of Buckery;

and

five

miles further

we went

over a ghaut, which

was

(hort but rather fteep,

and covered with loofe round

difficult to the

flones,
tle.

which made the afcent

tent

loaded catfallen

My
my

was

fo

wet and muddy, having

was obliged

about

ears in the night, that I

to feek

flicker in the village of Raichore,

where

fortunately

MILES.

FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES.

73

1361.

procured three empty houfes, purpofely erecled for the

ufe of travellers,
lage,

by the Mode,

or grahi-fellcr of the vil-

who

permits people to put up in them on condition

that they will

fell

buy

their grain of him,

which ha feems

to

dearer on that account.

;

Courfe

to the ghaut nearly

north

after

which the winding of the road carried us

a great deal out of our right direftion.

The Jemadaur

of horfe was

fo obliging as to

fend

me

three Sippahys* to conduct

me all the way to

natives

Jubbilghur.

They were

Bonedalas,
fine

or

of

Bundelkund
the

one of them, a

ftout

fellow, fung all

way

with a loud voice, that you might have heard him.

at the
I

diftance of a mile,

was mightily pleafed that

and
told

entered into converfition with him,

me

that he
I

would accompany

me

to Calcutta if I pleafed.

Friday 17.
the
Ikirts

The

road was very bad, and led through

for the

of a

forell:

mofl part of the way.

We

palTed over

many low

ghauts, covered with round

ftones,

which made the afcent and defcent of them

* Soldiers.

147-i-

74

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
tlie

miles.

I47J
rather difiicult to

loaded cattle,

and one of

my

bul-

locks

fell in

the road.

At

fix

miles from Raichore

we
is

pafTed through the village of Cheriapaunre,

which

decent place, and clean.

We

got

flielter in

the village

of Peprea, in fome thatched houfes belonging to the

grain-fellers

of the place, on the fame conditions as

it

yellerday,

which

muft be allowed are very eafy.

;

Courfe N. and by E.
Saturday 18.

and N.E.

latterly.

The

road led through a thick jungle,

the right, to the banks of the
oppofite
to

with a range of

hills to

Nerbudda, which we
Ghaut, and got fhelter
built

crofTed
in a

Tilwaurre
tiled
ferai,

moft excellent

by order of

Ballajee for the

accommodation of

travellers.
fo well

The

fource and courfe of the

that
it is

Nerbudda

are

known,

needlefs to
It is

make any
for

further

obfcrvations on the fubjeft.

famous

being the

ancient

northern

boundary of the countries of the

Decan
as the
.to

and

is

held facred in thefe parts by the Hindoos,

is

Ganges

to the eaftward.

was rather furprifed

find the river fo narrow (for an idea

may

be formed-

MILES,

FROM NAGPORE TO
of
its

BENARES.
acrofs
it,

75

155^
breadth from

my having fired a piftol

the

ball

of which reached the oppofite fhore),expe6ling, from

the

room Major Rennell has given

broader; however,
I

it

in his
it

Map,

to find

it

much
as
all
it

underttand

acquires breadth

goes to the weflward, and the narroweft part was in

It is

probability chofen for the purpofe of a ferry.

now
is

deep, but fordable in the dry months; the bottom

rocky

and perhaps

it

may

be navigable to very near

this to

its

fource in the rains.

cafe,

But fuppofing

be really the

what does
it

it

fignify? for the wild country through

its

which

runs,

from

fpring at Surgooja to the Hoiliun-

gabaud, or Hufnabaud Ghaut, the haunt of ferocious

animals, feems to forbid that
its

ftream fhould ever mur-

mur under

the weight of boats loaded with the wealth

of merchants.
8
at

Courfe N. E.
The
road led through an open country:

Sunday 19.

four miles from Tilwaurre Ghaut there are large

pieces of rock on the road, that have a romantic ap-

pearance

and there are feveral wells and a tank on the

L 2

163*

,76

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
Goflieyn''^',

miles.

i63^
hlglnvay, built by a

whofe remains

are buried

on one of the
this

hills

of the range to the right.

Beyond
an an-

we

paffed through the

is

town of Ghurra
a mint, in

it is

cient place, and there

which an

inferior

rupee, current through Bundelkund, called Ballafhahy,

is

coined.

ilrong party of horfe

is

always flationed

here.

The

road was good between Ghurra and Jubbil-

ghur, which

we

paiTed through, and

(kirts

encamped on the

bank of

a tank

on the

of the town.
Jubbilghur.

Courfe N.E,
who
has lived
fitting
;

Monday
I

20.

Halted

at

got up early in the morning, and went to the top of

to vifit a Sidh, or a

a rock,

Bhyraghe,
I

in a cave there for thefe three years.

found him

on a deer's fkin fpread on a

defired

fort

of wooden bed

he

me
a

to

come

into his cave,

I

and

I fat I

down

near

him on

mat which

found fpread there.

drew from

his converfition that

he was a Decan bramin (any Hindoo

may become

a Sidh, or a

Bhyraghe, or

Gofheyn), that

he had travelled over a great part of India, and was well

*

rcligior.s

man

of the Hindoo

tribe.

163Z

MILE*.

FROM NA.GPORE TO BENARES.

acquainted with

7;

1631

many

Englilli charaftcrs

and he ran

out into a long euloglum on the virtues of Mr. HalHngs,

under whofe aufpices, he

tranflated into

laid,

the Shafter had been

thirty fer\ants

EngHih.

had twenty or

with me, and he feemed pleafed with

particularly alked
vifit

my

vifit;

he
to

me

whether

had come purpofely

I

him, or had fallen in with his cave in hunting.

really true, that I

told
to

him what was

fee him.

had come purpofely

His countenance feemed to brighten

at hear-

ing this; which fhows that the moft reclufe are not free

from vanity

and

think myfelf, that

it

is

nothing but

motives of vanity that incites thefe people to give up

worldly
affairs,

that they

may

be revered almoft like

gods, for
tioufnefs

many

of

them

are difcovered to riot in licen-

under the mafk of fandity:

is

and

it

feems,

v/hen the matter

fimplified, to be

one mode of getting

bread in this country, as a flioemaker or a taylor, but

more

certain than following either of thole

I

two emplov-

ments.

prefented

him with
on

four rupees at parting,

which brought o
i63i

a fmile

his auftere

brow.

Gonefli
3

73

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
Aumil*
I

mit.es.

i6^i '3J
PLindlt, Ball:ijee's
at this place,

vlfitedme
a turban,

he

was very pohte:

paper,
t-\vo

prefented

him with

iome

pencils

(which they are mucli delighted

;

with), otter

and paun

and he

faid

he would fend his

people with
territory.

me

to conduct

me

through his mailer's

The country round

by
hills,

Jubbilgliur
is

is

a fine plain,

bounded

part of

which

referved for the pallurage of

cultivated.
firft

cattle,

and the remainder well

'Tuefday 21.

The

road for the

two miles was

16

very good, and we pafied through the village of Adhartal.

Onv/ards
in

we

got amongil overflowed

to

fields,

which

fome places were up

my

faddle-flaps in

water; and the road continued thus for

fix miles,

when

we crofied

the Pereat

Nudde, and got into higher ground,

that lafted for three miles, until

we had

pafied through

the extenfive village of Punaghur, beyond which the

load again became bad, and led through

fields.

'We

encamped

at

Bhooraghur, on the edge of a large lake

* Governor, or coUedlor of the revenues.

179^

MILES.

FROM NAGPORE TO

BENARES.

79

of water, in a fine mangoe grove.

paiTed through

The

country

we

was very well

cultivated,
is

and the great

quantity of water on the road

owing

to the breaking-

up of the monfoon, which has been attended with

great deal of rain to the north of the Nerbudda.
plain was

The

bounded

to

the right and left by

hills.

Courfe N.
12
Weclnefclay 22.

The

road for four miles was very

good, which brought us to Goofulpore, a large and clean

place
parts
;

beyond which we got

into fields, that in

to

fome
keep

were under water, and we were obliged

on the bund, or embankment.

Goofulpore

At

three miles from

fource of

we

croiTed the Herrin

Nudde, the

which

is

in the hills to the

fields to

eallward.

We

proceeded

through

Sahorah, a large village, where

we

encamped

in

a fine

mangoe

grove.

The country we
by
hills:

pafied through was a plain furrounded

cultivated ftate of the former of
ful

the rich
a beauti-

which exhibited

piAurefque contraft with the barren rocklncfs of the

latter.

Courfe N. and by E.

J9U

So

JOURNAL OP A ROUTE
I

miles.

I9li
forgot to take notice yefterday, that the hills to the

north-weil of Bhooraghur produce iron ore.

In the evening the Rajah's Aumil, a Merhattah Pundit, vilited

me, and was very

civil.

ThurfJay 23.
fo bad, that

After travelling a mile the road became

obliged to take a long fweep to the
fields,

r2'

we were

weftward to avoid overflowed

and we did not get

three
miles; after

into our right courfe again for near

which the road

us to the

for

two miles was very good, and brought

juil above-

Baugh Nudde, the ftreamof which,

crolfed,
is

where we

confined by a wall to preferve the

water in the dry feafons, for the purpofe of religious

ablutions,

and the Poojeh,

;

at

fome dewuls, or temples,,

above the

on

its

banks

and the waters

in the rains rifing

level of the height of the wall

make

a beautiful foamino;

cafcade.

Adjoining to the

Nudde we

pafied through

the village of
/kirts
foreft,

Koowau, which has

a large lake

on the

of

it.

The remainder of
hills to

the road led through a

left,

with

the right and

and we pafTed two

at

or

three

fmall villages.

We

encamped

Cawriah.

203

Mioes.

FROM NAGPORE TO
The
firft

BENARES.

8i

20-3

part of the road, as has been obferved, carried

us confiderably to the weftward; for four miles

we went

nearly N. and by E. and the remauider

N.E.

We mull
I

have gone over

at

leall:

fifteen miles

of ground, but

have

fet

down

the meafured dirtance as given

this road in the

me by

Mr.

Forfter,

who went

dry weather, and

of courfe was not obliged to go out of his way.

12

Friday 24.
fields,

The

firft

part of the road led through

to the ea ft ward.

and carried us

good deal

At

fix

miles

from Cowriah we

crofted

the

Kutteehna
continued

Nudde, which Hows from the

eaftward.

We

to pafs through a cultivated country,

hills to

with a range of

the right, which breaks oif abruptly before

you

come

to the

Bhora Nudde, v/hich we

crofted,

and imme-

diately got into the

town of Belhary, where we engrove.

camped
by E.

in a

mangoe

Courfe
old

latterly

N. and

Belhary

is

a very ancient town, and the northern ex-

tremity of Gondwauna.

The

Gonde

fort

ftill

re-

2151

iz

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
made fome
ad-

mii.e<^.

215J
mains, to which the Mcrhattahs have
ditions

and

alterations.

Saturday 25.
a ghaut, or pafs,

The

firfl

five miles

of the road led over

the afcent to which was eafy, and

flat

covered with huge

flones

the defcent in fome

;

places was rather abrupt, and very craggy

and nearly

at

the foot of the ghaut, on the right-h^nd (ide, are the

remains of an old

fort,

which appears

to have

been de-

figned to guard the palTage.

As we advanced we fome-

times palTed through jungle, and fometimes through

field
;

but the former feemed moll to prevail.

at

We

encamped
by N.
;

Chakah.

Courfe

over the ghaut E. and

latterly

N. E.
ends the territory of Ballajce in thefe

At
])arts
:

this village

his country extends

from Calpee on the banks

of the Jumna, where he himfelf refides, to thirty miles

to the fouth of the

Nerbudda,
fifty

vv'here it acquires a

breadth

of two hundred and

miles more to the eaftward

than any other part of his dominions, including the ancient

Gonde

forts

of Gurra

Mundlah and Gurna Baund227I

WILES.

FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES.

hoo. the

8;;

227J
His fon, Abhau Sahib, refides at
Sagiir,

and has

management of the fouthern

parts

of his father's

country.

They

fay he

is

a very

debauched young man,

and we

may

well fuppofe his manners mufl: have more

or lefs a detrimental degree of influence on the country

under
flate

his

charge

however,

if

we make

the flouriUiing

of the villages

we have

feen,

and the appearance of

the inhabitants, a criterion for our judgment,

we cannot
Bal-

fuppofe any material oppreflion to have exiftence.

lajee flands next in rank to Ragojee, the

Rajah of Nagis

pore, amongft the Merhattah chiefs, or princes, and

well fpoken of by his fubje6ts.

He

is

entirely at the

mercy of the
Calpee, and
in the

Paifliwah, whofe agent always refides at

is

continually
his mailer.

making

exorbitant

demands
Belhary

name of

Ballajee's

Aumil
I

at

was abfent

in the country yefterday

when

arrived,

and

did not return until night,

when he

fent a polite meffage,

excufing himfelf from vifiting me, and ordered four

Sippahys and a Chobdar* to conduct

*

me

to this place:

fervanl for thein,

who

carries a lilvcr or a

wooden

flick.

227

84

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
I

miles.

227^
and
muft acknowledore havino: received
all

uncommon

attentions from

Ballajee's people.

Sunday 26.

Tiie road led through a plain country,

;

15

covered with thin jungle

and
fort.

at five miles
I

from Cha-

kah we paffed
to fend

Bonedala

had the precaution

on a horfeman before me. to acquaint the people

that I fliould pafs in the courfe of the night, and defired

them not
was the

to be alarmed, wifliing to

make them fuppofe

flrongeft party.

They

talked of fearching

my
fure

baggage, which
his mafter

my horfeman told
to,

them he was very

as

would not fubmit

;

he was not carrying

merchandife

and

all

my

things paffed unmolefled

fix

myfelf, with a
rear.
I

Nayk and

Sepoys, bringing up the

continued to march flowly along with

my

ele-

phant,
till I

8cc.

through a country tolerably well cultivated,

at

had paffed through the village of Dhowrah,

twelve miles from Chakah, v/hen the fun becoming very

hot, and the
further,

wind

in

my

back,
I

pullied

on three miles

to Bunjaree,
I

where

had not arrived half an

hour before

heard that

my

elephant had been detained

2425

MILES.

FROM NAGPORE TO
by 300
or

BENARES.

8j

2425

400 matchlockmen, who

infifted that I fliould

return to
to

Dhowrah

which

was advifed by no means

this
I

comply with by the people of

affuring

place

and the

Zemindar
fent a
if

me

of prote6Vion,
tell

remained, and

Nayk and

four Sepoys to

the Bonedalahs that

I lliould

they did not releafe

for

my

elephant

fend to
this,

Chunar

an

efcort.

They would

not attend to
;

and the Nayk and four Sepoys returned

two Sepoys,
remaining
I

who had
with her

always guarded the elephant,

:

ilill

and they drove away the elephant.

at

wrote

to Colonel Brifcoe,
efcort of

Chunar Ghur,

to

fend

me

an

two companies of Sepoys,

the

in the evening

Roupee Kowaus,
entice

Dhowrah-man,
I told

fent a
it

horfeman

to

me

to return.

him

that

was cuflomarv,
firft

as well as his mafter's bulinefs, to have

vifited
I

me

not like a robber, to detain

felf paffed

my

elephant after
to

had myI

on.

told

him

go away; that

had

taken

my fteps, and he might do as

attended bv a

he plealed. Laul Jee,

the Zemindar of this place, vifited

me

in the evening.

He came
242*

number of matchlockmen with

86

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
matches, and I drew up my Nayk and
1 fix

miies.

242^
lighted

Sepoys

with their bayonets fixed, though

treachery.
civility,

did not fufpe6t any

He
faid

behaved with the greatell degree of

he would bring

and

my

elephant the next

day.

gave him otter and paun, and he retired into

his fort,

where he

faid I iliould find proteftion in cafe

of

neceflity.
I

learned that the country

is

torn and fliaken

by

in-

teftine

commotions.

The

barber, the flioemaker,

is

the

taylor, the clown, all

have guns, and there

no ap-

pearance of the cultivator.

has a tannah,
cxations

Every petty fcoundrel who

the road,

or llation,- on
traveller

makes

unjuft

upon every

whom he

can overpower.

Courfe

N.E.
is

Bunjaree
tent,

a pleafant village

and though

had no

yet

was completely

flieltered

from the rays of

the fun in a fine orrove of mans^oe and tamarind trees.

'

The Juphaow Nudde

village,

runs through the middle of this

S.

and has

its

fource in the hills to the

filli.

W.

It

produces plenty of excellent

242^

-ii-Ej.

FROM NAGPORE TO
Monday
men, went
2-].

BENARES.

8y

242* Laul Jee, with an hundred matchlockevenhig, accompanied by a fervant on

in the

whom

could depend, to endeavour to get

I

my elephant
Rajah Dhohis

releafed.

began to think Laul Jee

I

is

not better than

his neighbours.

wrote a Perfian

letter to

kul Sing at Callenyer, reprefenting the infolence of

fervant's conduct, and
'tuefday 28.

demanding
is

redrefs.
I

Laul

not yet returned.

under-

ftand they
\

want

to extort a thoufand

rupees from me.

have fent word to

my

fervant not to agree to give a

at

farthing in

my

name, and

any

rate not

more than an

hundred rupees.

They

told

my

fervant that
:

my camp
it

bafkets were full of gold mohrs

falfe
;

he replied,

was

and dared them

is

to force
civil,

the padlocks.

The
and
to

Dhowrah-man
wanted a
give him.

more

fent his compliments,

drefs

which

had peremptorily refufed

Wedncfday 29.
fervant, a

The Dhowrah-man
fpirit,

fo

worried
in

mv
the

bramin of high

from early

morning
242^

until evening,

and was
3

fo exorbitant in his de-

88

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
4000
;

mh-es.

242 s
mancis, wanting

rupees, that he could not withhold

hlmfelf any longer

he

faid,

"
*'

Take twenty
and
releafe
it

rupees,"
matter's
fliall

throwing them on the ground,

my

elephant inttantly, or you will repent

when you

be bound hand and foot, and carried to Calcutta. "

Incenfed the
fio-n

This

Dhowrah-man

(o

much,

that he
to fall

made
on

a
.

to his people,

and they were ready

my

fervant,

who

at

one leap cleared hlmfelf from the crowd,

daring any one of his people to
alloniflied at this,

and drew

his fword,

attack him.

They were
fit

and defired
After

him again to

down, and come

he
fatlsfied

to

fome terms.

a great deal of talk,

both Laul Jee and the

Dhowrah-man with 100

rupees, and brought a written

I fliould

order to the Tannadars that

not be

Hopped
fliall

and

my

elephant and baggage arrived.

We

be

two days before we get out of the country under

plunderer's charge,

this

and

am

not wholly unfufpicious

of treachery; however,
are refolved, if

my

Sepoys are firm, and

we

we

find the road flopped, to

make

a pafjufl-

fage with our arms, or periili in the attempt.

The

'M 242

MILES.

FROM NAGPORE TO
nefs of

BENARES.

89

2421

my

caufe,

and the meannefs of the charafter of

is

Roupee Kawaus, who

by

caft a barber,

has armed

my
12

foul with a degree of fortitude, not to be daunted

by thefe plundering mountaineers.

Ihiirfday 30.

The
;

road led through a broad valley,

with
in a

little

jungle

the country, as

may

be furmifed,

is

neglefted

ftate

of cultivation.

We

paiTed three

or four villages, and

lately

encamped

at

Ajwine, which has

totally deferted in

been plundered, and

I

almoll:

confequence.
Courfe,
firft

could not

get
;

rupee changed.

part E.

and by N.

latterly

N.E.

The

plunderer of this village has fent

me

word, that

the plunderer of another village will attack

him

in the

courfe of the night.

have put two fentinels on guard,

and ordered
to fire

all

my

people to fleep on their arms, and

to

on any perfon who attempts

come near

my en-

campment.

No

difturbance in the courfe of the night,

except that occafioned by the noife of the village people

to frighten a
tisrer,

who

killed a bullock within

600

yards of

my

tent.

254^

JO

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
Friday, Ocioher
i.

m".es.

254*

The

road led through an un-

11

cultivated country, with forell and

wood

in

many places.

At

fix

miles from Ajwine

is

we

pafTed the village of CuUie,

at

near which there

a fort,

and encamped

Bhugunpore,
firft

at the foot of the pafs

of that name.

Courfe,
me

part.

E. and by

N.

latterly

N. E.
in the evening,

The Zemindar,
and was very

a bramin, vifited
:

civil

he

faid,

he was very fure that

if

Rajah Dhokul Sing would be very much difpleafed

he

knew
all

had been detained an

;

inftant.

Thefe people are

minute
vifited

thieves
I

the Zemindar,

who

this

me,

and

thought appeared to be a decent man, has fent a

meifage, defiring

me

to

decamp and march

inftantly, as

the Dhowrah-man's people are alTembling to attack

in the night.

me

This

is

a trick to get

me

into the pafs

while

it is

dark, where a dozen matchlockmen, behind

trees in the

wood,

may

obitruft

my
I

party, while the

village people plunder

my

baggage.

have told him I

anj

much

obliged to him for his information, and fhall

till

(lay here

morning, and

am

quite prepared for an

MILES.

FROM NAG PORE TO BENARES.

an attack.
night.

91

65^

We

all

fleep

upon our arms agani

to-

The
all

rafcal

of a Zemindar kept up an incefTant firing

the night, and

made

his

people halloo in the woods,

I

with an intention to terrify me.

guard, and gave
lefs

put two fentinels on

them

particular orders not to fire un-

any body approached

I

my

camp.

The

event proved

what
2

had judged, no attack.

.

Saturday 2

arofe an

hour before

funrife,

and ordered

my baggage to be loaded and driven oJfF;

two horfemen, and the

and myfelf, with

Nayk and

fix

Sepoys, remained

fome time on the ground

Zemindar.

to obferve the

motions of the

He

fent a couple of fellows with fwords in

their hands, to tell

me

he had the guard of the

to proceed.
I told

pafs,

and

would not permit me

mailer was a

them

their

mean

fcoundrel, to fend at that time and

;

make any
man's

objeftions

and upon fliowlng the Dhowrah-

pafs,

they went away.

The

road for five miles

led through the pafs; and although the afcent and de-

fcent were both eafy, yet I think cannon could not be

2

86i

92

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
difFiculty.

miles.

286i

drawn over the rocky road without great There

Is

a chokey, or guard of a couple of matchlockpafs.

men, on the top of the

tivated,

We

then got nito a cul-

plain country, and pafTed feveral villages,

at

and

encamped
to which,

Amirpatam

two miles before you come

ends the territory of Bundelkund.

Courfe
28
at

E. and by

N.
3.

Sunday

The
we

road led through a fine cultivated

:

country, and

palTed feveral villages

encamped

Reewah.
his

Courfe

E. and

by N.

The Rajah

fent

Dewaun immediately on my

arrival,

with orders to

fupply
vifit

me

with what

wanted, and to

tell

me

he would

me

the next day.

4.

Monday
to

In the morning the Rajah fent the bramin

dreffes his viftuals,
it

me, who
I

with twenty rupees

to take, and give

which

was informed

was cuftomary
it
:

the bramin ten per cent, out of

followed.

the Rajah foon after

fifty

He
fat

is

a fhort, flout

man, aged about

years

he

with

me

about an hour, and afked a

I

numgave

ber of queftions about England and Calcutta.

I

314^

MILES.

FROM NAGPORE TO
him
fix

BENARES.

93

yards of fcarlet cloth, a piece of Kimkhauf*,

a piece of muflin, and otter and paun.

Rajah Ajeet Sing

is

the

Maha

Rajah, or Great Rajah

;

of Bundelkund, Bogilcund, and the Singars

the Rajah of Bundelkund
is

and though

entirely independent of,

and more powerful than Ajeet Sing, yet he muft be

inftalled in his

government by the

latter,

who

bellows

the honorary infignia.

The

influence of the foldiery

is

fo great, that there

is

not a fingle Jemadaur or officer in the Rajah's fervice

but what has a jaguer of one or two villages for his fupport
;

by which means the country

little

is

entirely divided

among them, and

remains for the Rajah's ownex-

pences, except what arifes from the cuftoms of

Reewah,

and the revenue of the land

it
:

in the

immediate vicinity of
is

notwithftandlng which, and that the Rajah

conis

fiderably in debt, no fort of exaflion or oppreflion

permitted to be exercifed over the Reyots, and he

is

very

much

beloved by

all

his

fubjefts.

The

Rajah's

* Gold wrought cloth.

314^

94

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE
is

milrs.

houfe

in the fort,

which is of

ftone,

and very extenfive,

re-

and furrounds the houfes of the moft wealthy and

putable
large.

inhabitants

of the place.

The

fuburbs are

Under the

fort runs the

Bichea Nudde, which

has

its

fource twenty miles to the eaftward, at a place

called Gore,

and

is

joined by the Beher

;

Nudde from
fall

the

weilward, juft above the town

and both

into the
relate
-v^ith

Tauwuns Nudde near

at this place,

the Souhagee Pafs.

They
refuge

that

when Humaioon fought

the

Rannah of Oodyepoor from the arms of

the ufurper,

Shere Shah, Choole Begum, one of his wives,

who was

then with child, for greater fecurity was fent to the anceftors

of Ajeet Sing, at Baundhoo, a flrong fortrefs

to the fouth-weft of
flie

twenty or thirty miles

Reewah,

when

almoll immediately on her arrival

;

was taken

with the pains of labour

but the aftrologers infilled

that the delivery Ihould be deferred for

a great king

two hours, when

poor

would be produced.
for

The

Begum

was hung up by the legs

the appointed time, after

314^-

MiLHS.

FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES.

which fhe was
born.
let

95

down, and the mighty

Acbar*''

was

In

remembrance of the above anecdote, when

Ajeet Sing received Shah

Aalum

after his flight

from

Shujah

Ud

Dowleh, and made an offering of the town

of Mercundpoor to the king, and one of his wives was

delivered of a fon, he was called Acbar Shah.
flill

He

Is

in exiftence at Delhi,

and the taxes of the above

town, amounting to 800 rupees per annum, are regularly

remitted to him.
Tuefday 5.
I

returned the Rajah's

vifit.

He

ordered

the great gate of the fort to be thrown open, which at

other times

is

always

lliut,

and received
fon,

me

with a great

deal of cordiality.

faw his

a fine
I

handfome
it

young man, aged about twenty-five.

had

hinted to

me

that he
llir

was

fo

much

in debt, that

he was fcarcely

able to

for the Importunities of his creditors.

The
and a
the

Rajah gave
turban,
*

me

a piece of

filk,

a piece of muflin,

otter

and paun.

In the evening I fent

The

third prince of the dynafty of Tamerlane, that fat

on the throne

of Hindooftan.

314^-

g6

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE

miles.

Rajah's fon a turban wrought with gold, and a fmall

looking-glafs fet hi agate, and ornamented with ftoncs.

The Dewaun

foon after

came

to

me

witli three letters,

addrefTed to the Zemindars on the road, ordering

them

not to obftruft

my way
me
The

and the Rajah fent two Hir-

carrahs to condudl

to the foot of the

Souhagee

Pafs.
23

Wednefday
country, with

6.

road led through a fine cultivated

many

fine tanks,

and

at twelve miles

from

Reewah we

pafled through

Raypore, a large place.

infignificant

We

croffed feveral rivulets,

which were too

at

to trace,

and we encamped

Mungaouma, on

the banks
is

of the
miles

Sino-re

Nudde, the fource of which

and
it

fixteen

off,

in the hills to the S. .

falls into

the

Tauwuns

river after taking a north-wefterly direction.

little

Courfe very

to the

N. of E.
is

The

ufual road to Mirzapoor from hence

;

through

the country of the Singrahs

to o-o

but Ajeet Sing advifed

as

me

by the Souhagee

Pafs,

they are a turbulent

people, and

my

guard

is

not Ibong.
i'2

I'burfJay 7.

The

road led through a country re-

349'

M^irs.

FROM NAOrORE TO
markably well
fickle.
It

BatsARES.

gy

3495
cultivated,

and the harveft ready

for the

may become

a qiieftion, and fubje^t matter

for furpriie, his

that Ajeet Sing {hould be (o poor,

is

when
is

country

fo

well cultivated

but the cafe

this,

that all his foldiers have affignments of lands for their fupport, as

we have

before obferved, and are themfelves

as

remarkably attentive to agriculture,

they receive no

pay

and you

will fee Rajpoots

and bramins working

at

in their

own

fields.

We encamped

Ghur,

in a

manE.

goe tope, near a

1

tank'-"

of fine water.

Courfe N.
our road;

Friday

8.

Eight miles of the road led through

difficulty

fields,

and

it

was with

we found

when

we
is

arrived at the Souhagee Ghaut, the afcent to which

;

very eafy, but ftony, and continues for eight miles

is

the defcent

remarkably abrupt and rugged for the fpace

it

of near a mile, at

was with the utmoft

difficulty

my
en-

elephant got down.

right,
is

At

the foot of the ghaut, to the

is

a ftone well, but the water

at a village half a mile
*

bad.

We

camped

further, bearing the

pond.

3671

9?

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE

mile?,

fame name with the ghaut.

the ghaut

367^
Courfe to the fummit of

N.E.

defcent E.

My people returned from

fent a very

HuUea, where they found Dhokul Sing: he

polite letter, exprefiing his difpleafure that

my

elephant

had been detained, and a perwaneh* to the Khowaus

to releafe
fully
it

immediately.
arrive at

I fliall
;

write to

him more

when

Benares

and requell that the

TOO rupees may be taken away from the Khowaus, and

diftributed

amongft the poor of the village of Dhowrah.

Saturday 9.
fields,

The

road for feven miles led through

15

and brought us to the junction of the Balun

with the Tauwuns, or Tonfe.
hills to

Nudde

We
off,

croffed the

former, which comes from the the latter has

weft,
its

the fouth-eall;
to the fouth^

fource a great
into

way

and

falls

the

Ganges below Allahabad.

The Tauwuns Nudde

ritory of Ajeet Sing.

terminates Bogilcund, the terto the

Courfe

Balun Nudde N. E.

The

road onwards to the village of Khere led through a

fine cultivated country.

Courfe
3

E.

The

Foujdar, on

* Written order.

zUl

MILES,

FROM NAGPORE TO
the part of Laul

BENARES.
the

95

3821

Oodwunt

Singh,

Nowaub's Ze-

mindar of the
ing,

diflrict

of Maurra, vifited

me
me

in the even-

and brought two people toconduQ:

to Maurra.

15

Sunday 10.
found
it

The

road led through

difficulty.

fields,

and we

with the greateft

The

country was
vil-

remarkably well cultivated, and we paiTed feveral

lages.

Our

courfe

was very irregular; but from the

range of

hills to

the right, which run nearly eaft and

Diaia,

weft, I imagine the village of

where we en-

camped,
16

to bear about E.

and by N. from Khere.

Monday

11.

The

road led through a fine cultivated

country, and

we

palTed

many

villages

encamped near

Maurra.

there learned that Rajah

Ram

Ghollam

Singh had paiTed the Ghauts, with 900 matchlockmen.

and 200
relief.

horfe,

by the

delire of

Mr. Duncan,

to

my

Two

or three hours after I arrived at this place,

Laul

Oodwunt

Singh, the Zemindar, fent a profufion of

eatables for the entertainment of myfelf and people,

and twenty or thirty rupees, which

his

I diftributed

amongft

people

who brought
o 2

the things.

He

foon after

4131

ICO
vifited

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE

wu.rs.

me

himfelf,

and

prefented

him with an AuruiiIn

gabad turban and cumurbund worked with gold.

the evening
I

received a letter from Mr. Duncan, giving

laid

mc
lief,

an account of the plan he had

down

for

mv

re-

which

at

once difplays his accurate judgment, as

well as humanity, in the promptnefs of his exertions

which

I ihall

ever

remember with

g-ratitude.

T'liefday

12.

Rajah

Ram
me

Ghollam Singh (who had

I

repaffed the Ghauts

on hearing that
in

had gone by the

Souhagee

Pafs)
I

vifited

the morning, and reat Beejapour,

quefted that

would Hay a day with him

which

promifed to do.

On

parting

prefented

him
Laul

with a Guzarat and an Arungabad cumiirbund.

Oodwunt Singh was very

him, which
putting
I

deflrous that I fhould vifit

I

wifhed to avoid, as

knew

it

would be
fo fre-

him

to a needlefs expence; but

I

he fent

quently that

could not avoid

it.

He met me
wanted

at the

door, and conducted

me

into a fmall upper room,

to give

and

was very

polite.

On

parting, he

me

large parcel of cloths and ihawls, a horfe, and a bag of

w^i-ES.

FROM NAGPORE TO BENARES.

money.
I

loi

4221
told

him

it

was not cuftomary

for Englldi

people to take fuch things, and begged he would excufe

me.

He

faid l^e

was not

Zemindar of the Company,

but of the Nowaub, and

infifted that I fliould take fom.e

part of the things, and I accepted a pair of fhawls and

a piece of kimkhaub.

In the evening I fet off for

Beejapour, and encamped there.

The Rajah met me

I

on horfeback half

a mife

from the town, and

until

could

not perfuade him to leave

me

my

tent was pitched,

and

had

lain

down.
I

Wedne/day 13.

had a violent fever on

me

all

the
I

night, and the Rajah

came

to fee

me

in the mornino-.
for

had heard that he had made fuch long llages

my relief,

that his horfe dropped on his arrival at Beejapour, and

I offered I

him the

bell horfe I had, with furniture, but

it.

could not perfuade him to accept

At eleven o'clock

A. M. relieved from the fever by

a profafe perfpiration.

The Rajah
tainment.

fent a

number of

eatables for

mv

enter-

In the evening the Rajah

came

to

condua me

to his.
o

4221

loi

JOURNAL OF A ROUTE,

&c.

mileb.

houfe, and was remarkably polite and attentive.

On

42 2 J

parting he wanted to give

I
I

mc

Ihawls, See. and a horfe

requelled he would excufe me, but he infifted that

ihould

accept of

fomething, and I

took

piece

f kimkhaub, and went home.

The Rajah accom-

panied me, and brought the horfe along with him, which

he

infifted
it

on

my

accepting

told

him

would ac-

cept

on no other terms, than that he would take a

horfe I had, in return, and a Hindooftany fword,
at laft agreed to
:

Decan

which he

and the Rajah's horfe

is

fuperior to mine, though I gave

'T'hurfday 14.

800 rupees
in the

for

him.
jg

The Rajah came

morning, and

infifted
all

on accompanying

me

to Mirzapore,

and he rode
fir-

the
'^'

way with me.

fet

On

parting

gave him a

peach

with jewels, which had been prefented to

me

by the Rajah of Nagpore, on

Friday 15.

my

leaving that place.

To
*

Benares, by Dauk, or poft.

02

An ornament

for the head,

466^

THE ENP.

The

The following vaJuahk Works

are,

or fjpeedily will be, publ'ijhed by

JOHN STOCKDALE.
The
Star denotes fuch as aic juft publiftieU.

of the Helvetic Confederacy, from its Origin to its late Diffolution. By Joseph Dedicated, by perSec. R.S. and principal Librarian at the liritidi Muleiim. Elegantly printed on liiperfinc wove paper, and hot-pLefled. In 2 vols. miffion, to his Majerty. Price a/. 2s. 4.to. illuftrated with a Map of SvviHerland, &c. Such gentlemen as wifli to be pofleffeJ of the above will jilcafe to give early orders, as it is not probable Mr. Stockdale will go to fuch an expenceof paper and print in any future edition which he is confident the acknowledged merit and vr.liie oi the work will loon render necefiary. Third Vohimc of the Hiftory, Civil and Commercial, of the Britifli Colonies in the Welt Indie-. By Bryan Edwards, Efq. F. R.S. &c. 4to. IlluHrated with a Portrait of the Author, and other Plates. Odes of Anacreon. Tranflated into Englilli Verfe, with Notes. By Thomas Moose, Efq. Elegantly printed on fine wove paper, and hot-pielled. Jn i vol. 4to. of the Middle Temple. Price i/. is. illuftrated with plates. * Journal of a Route to Nagpore, by the Way of Cuttae, Burrofumber, Do:ignr Ghur, and the Southern Bunjaree Ghaut, in the Year 1793: with an Accouiit of Nagpore, and a [ournai from that Place to Benares by the Soohagee Pais. By Daniel Robinson LEc.Mt, Efq. \a Price p. 4to. illuftrated with a map. By Bryan EdHiftory, Civil and Commercial, of the Britifli Colonies in the Weft Indies. wards, Efq. Dedicated, by permiflion, to his IMajefty. In 3 large vols. 8vo. iliultiated with

^^

TTISTORY

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