Earthy Appeal

By Lisa Turner

Lumpy, bumpy, often covered with dirt, the lowly sweet potato

seems wretchedly unsophisticated in the glamorous world of leafy

greens. Humble and dense as they are, they’re not as immediately

alluring as tender stalks of baby asparagus; lined up next to the

elegant endive, they're downright homely. But hailing from deep within

the mysteries of the earth, sweet potatoes are nurturing and reliable in

a way other foods of a more frivolous nature could never hope to

match.

Part of their ingenuous charm is their solid lineup of nutrients.

Sweet potatoes contain a wealth of vitamins and minerals, including

vitamins A, C and K, potassium and B vitamins, as well as fiber, which

reduces the risk of cancers of the colon and rectum, and reduces

cholesterol. They’re rich in beta carotene, a potent antioxidant that

helps prevent heart disease and cancer, especially breast cancer and

cancers of the bladder, cervix, prostate and lungs. A carotenoid-rich

diet regulates blood sugar levels, and may reduce the risk of insulin

resistance. Beta carotene also protects against diseases of the eye,

including macular degeneration.

Nourishing as they are, the culinary appeal of the sweet potato is

discounted--the regrettable result of a long history of faulty preparation

techniques. They’re forever saddled with a longstanding and

unfortunate alliance with marshmallows, in the clumsy casseroles too

familiar to holiday tables, or (worse) burdened by Karo syrup in the

usually cloying and graceless sweet potato pie.

Handled well, though, sweet potatoes have a rich, sweet

earthiness unmatched by few other vegetables. Treat them well: cube

and slowly roast them, enveloped in olive oil, garlic and minced

rosemary, cover them with a comforting blanket of curry-laced coconut

milk; or shred them and gently sauté with chopped walnuts, ground

cinnamon and cardamom, and other fragrant spices. Or feature them

in the earthy, simple recipes below, designed to celebrate this most

humble of vegetables.

[SIDEBAR]

I Yam What I Yam

What’s a yam? And what’s a sweet potato? For the nit-pickers

and would-be botanists, both yams and sweet potatoes are

angiosperms (we cal those flowering plants), yams are a monocot—a

plant that has one embryonic seed leaf--and belong to the

Dioscoreaceae family. Sweet potatoes are a dicot--a plant having (you

guessed it) two embryonic seed leaves--and are from the

Convolvulacea or morning glory family

For the foodies and regular folk, yams are more closely related to

lilies and wild grasses. They’re starchier and mealier than sweet

potatoes, and their flesh is often pale and dry. The skin of sweet
potatoes range in color from pale yellow to deep red, purple or brown,

and the flesh has a richer, deeper flavor and more moist, yielding flesh

when cooked. Those softer sweet potatoes are often labeled as yams in

the average supermarket.

The name confusion began, regrettably, during the era of

slavery, when African slaves labeled sweet potatoes “yams,”

since they closely resembled the starchy tuber native to their

homeland. The name stuck. There’s still a great deal of confusion

about the issue, especially in the South, where there’s a great

deal of confusion about essentially everything.

It’s a non-issue, really, since you’ll have to go out of your

way to find yams; unless you’re in an international market, the

lumpy, bumpy tuber you’ll usually find is the sweet potato,

regardless of what it’s called in the common grocer’s bins.

[RECIPES]

Parsnips and Sweet Potatoes with Hazelnuts

Serves 4

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small red onion, minced

1 pound sweet potatoes, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 pound parsnips, cut into 1/4-inch slices

2 small cloves garlic

1 tablespoon fresh thyme

1/4 teaspoon white pepper

1/2 cup chopped hazelnuts

Fresh thyme for garnish, if desired

In a large, heavy skillet, heat oil; add onions and cook, stirring

frequently, until just tender, about 3 minutes. Add parsnips and toss or

stir to coat with oil. Cover and cook over medium-low heat for about 5

minutes, stirring frequently; add parsnips and garlic, cover and cook

for 7 more minutes, or until just tender, stirring frequently (add a few

tablespoons of water, if needed to bottom of pan during cooking). Stir

in thyme, white pepper and hazelnuts, and cook for 1 minute longer.

Transfer to a serving dish, garnish with fresh thyme sprigs, and serve

hot.

Honey and Spice Roasted Sweet Potatoes

Serves 2 to 4

Olive oil

2 tablespoons butter

1/2 cup honey

2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper

1/2 teaspoon coarsely-ground black pepper

2 large red–skinned sweet potatoes, cut into 1/2–inch cubes

 Preheat to 400°F. Lightly coat a large baking sheet with

canola oil. In a small saucepan, melt butter; add honey and

spices, and stir to mix well. Remove from heat and let cool

slightly. Place sweet potatoes on baking sheet and pour honey

mixture over them; mix with hands to coat well. Spread mixture

in a single layer and roast for about 15 minutes, stirring

occasionally. Turn baking sheet around in oven and roast for an

additional 15 minutes, or until tender. Remove from oven and

serve hot.