August, 2004
LC124
ISSN 1329-833X

Mulch can belaid on bare soil surfaces to protect the
structure of the soilsurface and to suppress weed growth.
Careful selection and effective placement of mulch can
give increased survival and improved growth of young
plants.

assist seedling growth by suppressing germination of
weeds and grasses which would compete for space,
nutrients and water;

Mulch is most effective when applied at or just after
planting. It is preferable to apply it prior to the spring
growing season and certainly before summer.

Mulching at a radius of 600mm - 1000mm around
seedlings is recommended. It is desirable to kill or remove
existing unwanted vegetation before placing the mulch.
Herbicide treatment, cultivation or scalping are commonly
used methods. The best time to do this is prior to planting.

There are many types of mulch available. They are either
bulk materials which are spread around the seedling, or
mats which are fitted around the seedling. Mulches may be
either organic (derived from living materials) or inorganic
substances.

Combinations of mulches may increase the overall
effectiveness. The disadvantage of one mulch may be
overcome by using it in conjunction with another. A bulk
mulch with a mat mulch often greatly improves reliability
and performance.

Before using any herbicide, read the product label
carefully. Follow all instructions when using
herbicides.

These are durable inorganic mulches, but expensive if
purchased or transported long distances. Fine sand may
repel water when settled.

These are relatively durable mulches. They may repel
water once they have settled down. They may induce
nitrogen deficiency in the underlying topsoil as micro-
organisms \u201ctie-up\u201d soil nitrogen while breaking down the
wood particles.

These are durable mulches. Their cost may limit broad-
scale use. They can also tie-up soil nitrogen but at a lower
rate than for sawdust.

Leaf litter has a quite variable performance and durability
depending on the type used. It is natural looking, may
pack down and repel moisture, but generally it decomposes
readily. It may constitute a source of weed seed.

Compost decomposes readily and adds organic matter to soil. It could be a major source of weed seed. It needs to be regularly \u2018topped-up\u2019.

These are light and easy to spread. They will generally
only last for one season. Shredded paper may repel water
if it is allowed to compacted. Hay may contain significant
quantities of pasture and weed seeds and cannot be
recommended unless it comes from a pure sward and had
been harvested before seed-set.

Generally bulk mulches should be spread evenly to a
minimum thickness of 70mm. This should be increased to
100-150mm where persistent or problem weeds are
present. Trial and error should be used to arrive at a
suitable mulching thickness.

Where organic mulches remain wet for any length of time
(due to poor drainage, high rainfall or over-irrigating) it is
essential that the mulch be kept away from the stem of the
seedling. This is to reduce the potential for collar rot
(fungal attack) and likely death of the seedling.

Water repellent bulk mulches can be improved by mixing
with other mulches with larger particles such as
woodchips, pinebark or gravel.

This is inorganic material of good durability if it is secured
properly. Ultra-violet stabilised plastic is best and the
heavier plastic is preferred. Plastic doesn\u2019t breathe and
moisture may accumulate immediately underneath and
encourage shallow root growth.

This is inorganic material of good durability which
overcomes moisture problem but its cost may be
prohibitive. Peg it down but do not cover it with soil.

It is best to use at least 4-5 sheets of paper. Even so it is
not very durable. Usually lasts just the one season. The
edges need to be secured as it blows away easily. Do not
cover with soil as this will increase rate of decomposition.

This is a durable material which may be organic or
inorganic. It can be difficult to cut and it could be difficult
to obtain. It is oOften available at a local tip.

Although mat mulches are easy to place they often fail
because of inadequate fastening. It is important to at least
secure the corners and desirable to secure edges as well.
Pegs, rocks or soil are frequently used for this purpose.
Pegs need only be short lengths of fencing wire bent into a
\u201cL\u201d or \u201cU\u201d shape. Weighing down with rocks is not really
satisfactory.

Large weeds and grasses with runner shoot may also be a
problem. Runners can often penetrate beneath the mulch
while large weeds may lift it. Careful attention to securing
edges and effective early weed control should prevent this.

Provision must be made to place the mat around the
seedling. Cut one or several slits in the mat. Keep slit size
to a minimum, but large enough to ensure no damage
occurs to the seedling when placing the mat. It is desirable
to have the slit edges overlapping as any opening will
present an opportunity for weed species to grow.

Organic mulches which are largely wood or bark can
draw nitrogen from the soil. This should not affect
fertile soils or where\u201cnitrogen fixing\u201d plants such as
wattles or casuarinas are being used. The problem can
easily be remedied for other young plants by adding a
small quantity of nitrogen fertiliser to the mulch.
Addition of nitrogen fertiliser is likely to increase the
rate of decomposition of the mulch.

In frost prone locations some mulches may actually
increase the risk of frost. A thick dry layer of organic
mulch does not store much heat during the day. At
night it will drop in temperature much quicker than the
adjacent soil surface leading to an induced frost. A
dark coloured mulch will absorb more heat during the
day as will a moist mulch, reducing the risk of frost.

A thick layer of mulch will reduce extremes in soil temperature on a daily and yearly basis while a thin mulch may act quite differently. Black plastic will encourage heat absorption and increase soil