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SEPTEMBER 8, 2012 Still a mixed route. Be prepared for newly fallen snow or ice on shaded aspects and ledges. The upper snowfields can be avoided, but watch for verglas on the slabs below them!
JULY 20, 2012 The Koven Route is now a mixed route with both hard snow and rock in the main couloir.
JULY 14, 2012 The lower couloir is mostly rock, and the upper couloir is still mostly snow. The snow aprons around the summit block are still there, but they are melting away at the edges. Ice axe and crampons recommended.
7/14/12
7/14/12
7/14/12
JUNE 30, 2012 Koven Couloir - as viewed from from the top of Disappointment Peak - appears to be continuous snow in the upper couloir. The lower weakness is likely wet rock.
JUNE 14, 2012 Don't underestimate the initial difficulties encountered in the first (lower) cliffband. Choose either wet, loose kitty litter scrambling on rock or wet rock/snow/ice in steep chimney. Good hard snow conditions exist in the couloir and on the aprons leading to the summit block.
The upper east face snow aprons - 6/14/12 MAY 31, 2012