successfully and competently. After all, it must be understood and taken into accountthat raw materials constitute 50-60% of costs of produced yarns.Traditionally, three fibre parameters have been used to determine the qualityvalue of cotton fibre. These are grade, fibre length and fibre fineness. The developmentof fibre testing instruments such as the High Volume Instrument (HVI) and theAdvanced Fibre Information System (AFIS) has revolutionized the concept of fibretesting. With the HVI it is pragmatically possible to determine most of the qualitycharacteristics of a cotton bale within two minutes. Based on the HVI results,composite indexes such as the fibre quality index (FQI) and spinning consistencyindex (SCI) can be used to determine the technological value of cotton; this can play apivotal role in an engineered fibre selection programme.
Both fiber selection and blending techniques have been based on art andlong experience. In recent years, revolutionary developments have been madein the
of fiber testing with the introduction of both the AFIS (AdvancedFiber Information System) and
HVI (High Volume Instruments). These
,in conjunction with microcomputers, have made it possible to develop scientifictechniques in this critical area. The Engineered Fiber Selection
EFS)developed by Cotton Incorporated represents the program in the area of fiber selection and bale management.
For centuries cotton has had a reputation as the most comfortable fabricand king of the fibres. Cotton is one of the oldest textile fibers known to human kind.The direction of cotton fibre research needs to reflect the position thatcotton, as the world’s most popular natural textile fibre, currently finds itself in.Cotton’s current share of the world textile market is now estimated to be 41.9% withcurrent projections that cotton’s share will decline. Despite a reversal during the late1980s, there has been a continuous decline in cotton’s share of the world textile fibremarket since the late 1960s. For cotton to reverse this trend it needs to becomemore competitive, both in terms of its quality and the diversity of products that it is used