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Practice of Cotton Fibre Selection for Optimum Mixing

Practice of Cotton Fibre Selection for Optimum Mixing



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Published by: viswa5263 on Mar 18, 2009
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Practices of Cotton Fibre Selection and Procurement for OptimumMixing 
Email- rajn2001@gmail.comTextile and Engineering Institute,“Rajwada”, Ichalkaranji – 416115
In view of todays technology, the process of cotton fiber selection shouldundergo an inevitable transition from the traditional pure art to a sound scientifictechnique. In order to achieve this transition, fiber selection should be integrated into acotton fiber mixing program that attempts to optimise cotton fiber use with respect tocost and quality of end product. A cotton fiber mixing program should be based on fiber information that meets quality requirements imposed by the rapidly developingtechnology and continuous change in customer demand.
Key wordsCotton mixing- Cotton selection - Advanced Fibre Information System
Dynamic approachIntroduction
Raw material is the most important factor influencing yarn quality. To a greatextent it can determine whether a product is good and it is also responsible for thecost factor. Mistakes made at selecting raw material and later at preparing blends,cannot be made up for in further processing, even if all available means are used.Each stage of processing in a spinning mill will proceed properly only if the rawmaterial is uniform and is contained in the acceptable range of tolerance. Subjective andreasonable savings made at purchasing a raw material are still the most effectivemethod of cost reduction available to spinning mills. Proper choice and use of a rawmaterial are the factors that determine whether a spinning mill can operate efficiently,
successfully and competently. After all, it must be understood and taken into accountthat raw materials constitute 50-60% of costs of produced yarns.Traditionally, three fibre parameters have been used to determine the qualityvalue of cotton fibre. These are grade, fibre length and fibre fineness. The developmentof fibre testing instruments such as the High Volume Instrument (HVI) and theAdvanced Fibre Information System (AFIS) has revolutionized the concept of fibretesting. With the HVI it is pragmatically possible to determine most of the qualitycharacteristics of a cotton bale within two minutes. Based on the HVI results,composite indexes such as the fibre quality index (FQI) and spinning consistencyindex (SCI) can be used to determine the technological value of cotton; this can play apivotal role in an engineered fibre selection programme.
Both fiber selection and blending techniques have been based on art andlong experience. In recent years, revolutionary developments have been madein the
of fiber testing with the introduction of both the AFIS (AdvancedFiber Information System) and
HVI (High Volume Instruments). These
,in conjunction with microcomputers, have made it possible to develop scientifictechniques in this critical area. The Engineered Fiber Selection
EFS)developed by Cotton Incorporated represents the program in the area of fibeselection and bale management.
For centuries cotton has had a reputation as the most comfortable fabricand king of the fibres. Cotton is one of the oldest textile fibers known to human kind.The direction of cotton fibre research needs to reflect the position thatcotton, as the world’s most popular natural textile fibre, currently finds itself in.Cotton’s current share of the world textile market is now estimated to be 41.9% withcurrent projections that cotton’s share will decline. Despite a reversal during the late1980s, there has been a continuous decline in cotton’s share of the world textile fibremarket since the late 1960s. For cotton to reverse this trend it needs to becomemore competitive, both in terms of its quality and the diversity of products that it is used
Theory and Practice of Cotton Fibre Selection
The main technological challenge in any textile process is to convert the highvariability in the characteristics of input fibers to a uniform end product. This critical taskis mainly achieved in the blending process, provided three basic requirements are metaccurate information about fiber properties, capable blending machinery, and consistentinput fiber profiles. Over the years, developments in fiber selection and blendingtechniques have been largely hindered by insufficient fiber information resulting from alack of capable and efficient testing methods. Accordingly, art and experience havebeen the primary tools.One of the common approaches was massive blending, in which vast quantitiesof bales were mixed by grade or growth area to reduce variability. These mixed cottonswere then re-baled and fed to the opening line in random order to further enhance themixing effect. The rising cost of labor, storage, equipment, and raw material makes theold blending approach largely impractical.Furthermore, modern warehouses require a more dynamic approach to balemanagement, in which bales may be supplied to the warehouse on an incrementalbasis depending on production requirements, rate of bale consumption, warehousespace and arrangement, and other cost-related factors. In situations where differentprocessing lines involving different spinning techniques are used, stricter warehousebale management is required to meet various end product demands.In recent years, high volume instruments (HVI) and the Advanced FibeInformation System (AFIS) have been developed. Using these instruments, thousandsof cotton bales can be tested for several fiber properties at rates exceeding 150 balesper hour. Data generated by these instruments can easily be utilised withmicrocomputers and powerful software programs. These revolutionary developmentshave led to substantial rethinking of cotton fiber selection, driven by the rising costs of both labor and raw material and the more demanding quality requirements of endproducts.

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