Magic of Silk…

Silk, a truly sensuous fabric, is one of my all time favorites. It conjures up images of a sheen pleasing
to the eye and smooth to touch. When you walk draped in a silk sari, the softest of rustles can be
heard by discerning ears.

Silk is the processed, finished product of the natural secretion (a protein fiber) a silkworm produces
to spin around its cocoon. The rearing of silkworms for producing silk is called ‘sericulture’. The
amount of usable silk in each cocoon is small. More than 5000 silkworms are required to get 1 kg of
raw silk to produce the final fabric that you drape.

History…

The silkworm moth was originally a native of China, where sericulture started early. For centuries,
the gathering and weaving of silk- one of the oldest known textile fibers- was a well-guarded secret.
Until AD 300, when Japan and later India, penetrated the secret. Old Testament references indicate
that silk was known during biblical times in western Asia. Caravans carried silk on camelback from
the heart of Asia to Damascus, Syria, the marketplace at which East and West met. All raw silk and
silk woven in Europe came from Asiatic sources until AD 550.

Silk was only one item in the abundant material and east-west cultural exchange that occurred along
the Silk Route. Yet, people all over the world happily accepted and called it the Silk Road, so
christened by a modern French historian. I vividly remember my childhood days in Calicut, a coastal
town in Kerala, eagerly awaiting the “Chinaman’s” annual visit, the pearly white Chinese silk he
brought and the frilled frocks we had made.

Today, China and India are the major producers of silk. As the second largest producer, India
contributes to about 18 per cent of the world’s silk production. India is also the largest consumer of
silk fabrics by way of saris, garments, apparel, quilts, bedcovers, table cloths, curtains, cushion
covers etc. A variety of weaves, designs and patterns have made Indian silk globally popular.

The Indian silk weaving tradition mainly revolves around the sari, and the silk fabric itself is a
ubiquitous part of our culture.

Science …

Over 700,000 families are employed by the Indian sericulture industry. It is mostly concentrated in
Karnataka, Tamil Nadu, and Andhra Pradesh and to a certain extent, Assam and West Bengal. About
70 percent of the country's total silk production comes from Karnataka.

Silk worms are reared in different parts of India, contributing to the numerous varieties of silk we
produce. Five main varieties of silk are available in India, depending on the different species of silk
worms feeding on different leaves. These include Mulberry silk, Tussar silk, Eri silk, Muga silk and
Oak Tussar silk.

Type of silk Procured from Leaves fed upon States produced Details
 Silkworm
Mulberry silk Bombyx mori mulberry Karnataka, Also known as
Andhra Pradesh, commercial silk.
W. Bengal, Tamil Requires large
Nadu, J & K. mulberry
plantations.

Tussar Antheraea asan, arjun, sal Jharkhand, less lustrous than

mylitta, Chattisgarh, mulberry silk, but
Antheraea Paphia Orissa, has its own feel
Maharashtra, W. and appeal. A
Bengal, Andhra mainstay of tribal
Pradesh communities in
India.
Eri Silk, also Philosamia ricini castor North-eastern thick, warm, soft,
known as Endi or states, Assam, rare and very long
Errandi silk Bihar, W. Bengal, lasting, used for
Orissa. preparing
chuddars

Muga silk Antheraea som, soalu Assam known for its

assamensis natural
shimmering
golden yellow
colour

Magic…

Silk saris are among the finest examples of the excellent craftsmanship of Indian weavers. Their
mastery lies in the selection of vibrant, rich and luscious hues, beautiful textures, creation of artistic
floral designs and fine geometry. Silk weaving in India is an industry that is based mostly on
handcraft. Two weavers working at a loom manage to produce about two silk saris in a month. Silk
varieties are often known by the place where they are woven, like Benaras, Kanjeevaram (produced
in Kanchipuram), Dharmavaram, Arni, Mysore, Bangalore, Paithani, Chanderi, Murshidabhad, and
Kashmiri. Andhra Pradesh is famous for pochampally silk saris with geometric designs.

Benaras is one of the leading silk sari producing centers of India. During the Mughal period, weaving
brocades with intricate gold and silver thread designs was the specialty of Benaras. Also known as
India’s “fabric of dreams”, Jamvar, Navrangi, Jamdani are other brocade types from the range of
Benarasi saris. Brocades are also produced in Thanjavur, Tiruchirapally, Madras, Aurangabad, Surat,
Ahmedabad, Delhi, Lucknow, Bhopal and Murshidabad. At times, the richness of brocade is
enhanced by the weaving of verses from the Hindu scriptures or the Koran, thus making it
appropriate for religious ceremonies.
Rich Benarasi silk

Vibrant Kanjeevarams
Mysore Silk

South Indian silk saris are unique in texture and design. Commonly styled into kornad saris, they
originated in Kornad or Tanjore in Tamil Nadu. The best come from Kanchipuram in T.N,
Dharmavaram and Arni in A.P, and Kollegal in Mysore. These saris are woven with the finest silk; in
traditional designs, with special stress on borders and pallavs. A Kanjeevaram sari will always find a
place in every South Indian bride's trousseau, often passed on as heirlooms.
Personal Favourites…

Ethereal Chanderis

The state of Madhya Pradesh is famous for Chanderi, produced in a small town of the same name.
Chanderi silks are very light and ideal for Indian summers. These saris are a rare fusion of soft and
contrasting colors. The hand-woven silk has a light, sheer quality that sets it apart from textiles
produced en masse in factories. Its beauty lies in its simplicity, airy feel, narrow borders and well
designed body and pallavs with buttis. Silk saris are woven with thread or zari borders and have zari
and thread work all through the length of sari, giving it an elegant look. These saris impart
sophistication to whoever wears it.

Sturdy Tussars
Tussar silk saris are considered auspicious and valued for their purity and texture. Available naturally,
in shades of pale gold, dark, honey, tawny, beige, cream etc. They are decorated with a variety of
natural motifs. The beauty of Tussar is that with each wash, it becomes better. It is a sturdy silk, fit
for rough use. I have saris, which I bought more than 20 years ago- still in good condition.

Fascinating Patolas

Patola silk saris are the pride of Gujarat and one of the finest hand-woven sarees produced today.
Patolas are created using the ‘resist dying’ technique: The yarn is resist dyed before it is used in
weaving. You get muted patolas as well as saris known for their flaming bright colors and geometric
designs interspersed with folk motifs. A patola sari takes 4 to 6 months to make, depending on how
complicated the designs is. Each fabric consists of a series of warp threads and a single weft thread,
which binds the warp threads together. Each one of the warp threads is tied and dyed according to the
pattern of the sari, such that the knotted portions of the thread do not take up the colours. The end
result is a tremendous richness in colour of the fabric, with both sides of the sari looking exactly
alike. It can be worn either way. In fact except to an expert, a patola looks like a piece of silk fabric,
printed on both sides in the same design!

Ikkat (known as patola in Orissa) is also created using the tie & dye method. The difference is that the
method is applied to the yarn prior to weaving - and hence a far more complex procedure. There are
two - one where the method is applied to the warp only, and the other where it is done on both the
warp and weft. In the latter, the fabric can be used on either side. Andhra Pradesh, Gujrat and Orissa
are the main centers for this kind of work
Silk Bomkai Sambalpuri saris from Orissa are also in single and double ikkat. In contrast to the ikkats
of Gujarat, these saris are sober in color and decorated with curved forms. The pallu of these saris
have floral and animal patterns on them. Sambalpuri textile is essentially handloom.

Heavy Bordered Orissa Silk

Bandhini saree from Jaipur

Bandhini- produced through an ancient method called "bandhej" or tie and dye, is found in Gujarat
and Rajasthan. Designs are created on fabric in natural colour by tightly tying thread around specified
areas. The cloth is then dipped in dye. The thread is removed and the tied up areas retain their
original colour. Hence the name "tie and dye". Repeated processing in the same way leads to multiple
colour designs.

Murshidabad in West Bengal is the home of the famous Baluchari sari. The Baluchar technique of
weaving uses untwisted silk thread for weaving brocades. The pallav of this sari has patterns that
resemble miniature paintings. The motifs are entirely in silver zari. The simple lightweight
Murshidabad printed silks are ideal for regular office wear.

Light printed Murshidabad Silks

How do you ascertain the authenticity of silk?

Take a few threads and burn them. Pure silk will coagulate and leave a black powdery residue with a
faint unpleasant odour.

Silk is graded in deniers, unlike cotton, which is graded in counts. In cotton, the lesser the count the
thicker the material and the higher the count, the thinner the material. While in silk it is the opposite
with the lesser denier yarn producing a finer silk and a thicker denier producing a heavier silk. Check
the weight - the heavier the silk, the longer it will last.

If there is zari work, ask if the zari is pure. Imitation zari will turn black in a couple of years.
Incidentally, "pure gold" zari is a misnomer - it is not gold thread but has at its core, a silk thread over
which silver wire is twisted and then dipped in gold.

How do you maintain your silks?

Good silk is not at all difficult to maintain - and if properly maintained, will last for years. The best
way of washing silk is the traditional way: Just squeeze a few drops of lime in cold water, or use a
mild soap. Never soak silk in soap water. Dip the silk, rub gently, rinse, wring lightly and dry in the
shade. Avoid the use of chemicals - these may damage your silk, and end up reducing its life
considerably. However, many silk saris require dry cleaning, at least the first time.
With time and age, your preferences in saris change. In my case, the flaming, vibrant and heavy
Kanchivarams gave way to light pastel and floral printed Kashmiri silks. These are very easy to drape
and lightweight, ideal for Indian summers. My taste in Chanderis has however, remained unchanged.
In fact, all my old Chanderi silks were dyed recently, to give them a brand-new look. I still enjoy
wearing them on occasions.

Printed / embroidered Kashmiri silks