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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:16 Page 1
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:16 Page 2
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:16 Page 3

Contents 5

Handy Information 5

City transport 11

Museums, Churches 14 14

Cultural Avenue 22

Sights, Sightseeing 26 11
Antiques road show 34 40 26

Music, Theatres, Events 36

Beyond Budapest 38

Medicinal baths, Caves 40 38


Leisure 42

Shopping 46
36
Restaurants, Entertainment 48
42
Maps 6, 24–25

Legend
« Tram A1 Map coordinate
48 6, 24–25,
« Suburban railway ●
1 Site of museum
ç Bus on map
è Castle bus

1 Site of bath,
ë Trolleybus cave on map
1 Metro 1 [1] Photo Publisher: Tourism Office of Budapest
2 Metro 2 the official tourism marketing organization of Budapest
Publication manager: László Paszternák
The following are selected (c) All rights reserved
3 Metro 3 photos submitted to the Edited by Turizmus Kft. · Editor: Brigitta Vajk · Design: András Nász

≥ Phone number Budapest Panorama


photo competition:
¥ Fax (1) p.19, P. Tkalcec; (2) Translation: CHFI Bt.
Cover: Future Card Stúdió · Maps: TOPOGRÁF
ó Opening hours p. 20, (7) p. 31, U. Ishay; Photos: Laya Gelencsér, József Hajdú,
(3) p. 26, R. Vasilev; (4), Hungarian National Tourist Office and Turizmus Kft.
% Admission
(5) p. 26, J. Bunston; (6) The publisher does not accept responsibility for damages arising from any
changes in information contained in this publication.
é Budapest Card p. 26, D. Saunders; (8) p. Publication closed: November 2004
accepted 33, J. Müller. Printing: Szikra Printing House Co.

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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:16 Page 4

Dear Readers
I would like to welcome you to Budapest, a city which not only greets its
guests with a rich history and unique cultural heritage, but also where we,
the residents, can witness day by day its resurgence. That tourism is one of
the most important economic branches of Budapest is evident in the rise in
the number of tourists visiting the capital, and the growth of the quantity
and quality of tourism services. Year on year several dozen new hotels
spring up in Budapest, numerous old buildings are reconstructed, and new
cultural and tourism establishments are born. The capital is made all the
more attractive for being renowned as the location of one of the most
beautiful World Heritage sites, and only Budapest can say of itself that it
has Europe’s largest Parliament, largest functioning synagogue and the
continent’s first underground railway. The visitor will find side by side the
remains of fortresses and buildings from Roman times, still operating
Turkish baths, Gothic and Baroque buildings, and the incredibly rich Art
Nouveau architectural heritage. Not only is Budapest worthy holder of the
title “Queen of the Danube”, but in fact there is not one other capital city
in the world with close on 100 thermal springs and 12 medicinal baths
within its boundaries, where 19 million gallons of thermal water rise to the
surface each day.
Despite the spectacular development, Budapest has preserved its old
charm and magic. It is a city where the pleasing harmony of different
architectural styles and superb structures, the cafés, baths, the gastronomy
and culture, combined with legendary hospitality blend into an
unforgettable experience for visitors. Besides popular programmes and
festivals staged each year the capital’s tourism selection is further enriched
by new, high standard events each season. Tourists can stroll down the
“Pest Broadway”, now taking on a new lease of life, and enjoy a
programme in one of the atmospheric, unique repositories of music calling
to all ages, since there is a choice ranging from live music in the pubs to
the repertoires of the Opera House and the recently rebuilt, magnificent
Operetta Theatre.
So I warmly commend this publication to you, and trust you will find
yourself using it frequently. After careful preparation we compiled it with
great pleasure in the hope that it will allow you to discover what is best in
Budapest.

László Fekete
Director
BTH Budapesti Turisztikai Szolgáltató Kht.
(Tourism Office of Budapest)

BTH Budapesti Turisztikai Szolgáltató Kht. (Tourism Office of Budapest)


µ H–1364 Budapest Pf. 215 • ≥ (+36-1)266-0479 • ¥ (+36-1)266-7477 • E-mail: info@budapestinfo.hu
www.budapestinfo.hu

4 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:16 Page 5

H A N D Y information
Turista információ • Tourist information

INFORMATION OFFICES
Tourinform Main office – Police-info Office
V., Deák tér/Sütô utca 2 (H3) ≥ (36-1)438-8080 ó 8 am–8 pm

Buda Castle
H–1016 Budapest, Szentháromság tér
≥ (+36-1)488-0475, ¥ (+36-1)488-0474
Excursions, sightseeing, World Heritage views, maps, guide services,
general information, car rentals
ó 15 June–15 Sept 9 am–8 pm, 16 Sept–14 June 10 am–7 pm,
1 Nov–31 March Mon–Fri: 10 am–7 pm, Sat–Sun: 10 am–4 pm

Western (Nyugati) Railway Station


≥/¥ (+36-1)302-8580
Left wing of the main station • Accommodation, maps, general information Nonstop information:
ó 15 June–15 Sept 9 am–7 pm, 16 Sept–14 June Mon–Fri: 9 am–6 pm,
Tourinform call centre (24 hours):
Sat–Sun: 9 am–3 pm
(+36-1)438-8080
Budaörs Tourinform hotline (24 hours):
H–2040 Budaörs – AGIP Complex – South ≥/¥ (+36-1)302-8580 (+36-30)30-30-600 from abroad,
Accommodation, maps, general information (06-80)630-800 from Hungary
ó 15 June–15 Sept Mon–Fri: 9 am–7 pm, Sat–Sun: 9 am–6 pm,
16 Sept–14 June Mon–Fri: 9 am–5 pm, Sat: 9 am–3 pm, Sun: closed Internet: www.hungarytourism.hu
¥ (+36-1)488-8661
Liszt Ferenc tér E-mail: hungary@tourinform.hu
≥ (+36-1)322-4098, ¥ (+36-1)342-9390
H–1061 Budapest, Liszt Ferenc tér 11
Accommodation, sightseeing, excursions, special programmes, guide
services, maps, general information, car rentals, World Heritage views,
newspapers, tickets for cultural and sports events, souvenirs.
ó 15 June–15 Sept Mon–Fri: 9 am–7 pm, Sat–Sun: 9 am–6 pm,
16 Sept–14 June Mon–Fri: 10 am–6 pm, Sat: 10 am–4 pm, Sun: closed

Budapest, Ferihegy – terminal 2A, 2B


≥ (+36-1)438-8080, ¥ (+36-1)488-8661 ó 8 am–11 pm

PASSPORT, VISA
Entry with a personal ID card
Citizens of the following countries may enter the territory of Hungary with a personal identification card for
a stay of maximum 90 days, provided the purpose of their visit is not to take up work or to conduct
business-related activities: Austria, Belgium, Croatia, France, Germany, Italy, Liechtenstein, Luxembourg,
Slovenia, Spain, Switzerland.

Entry with passport but no visa


Citizens of European countries (with the exception of Albania, Russia, Serbia-Montenegro, Turkey and the
Ukraine) do not require a visa to travel to Hungary. Citizens of the following countries outside Europe
similarly do not require a visa: Argentina, Brazil, Canada, Chile, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Israel, Japan, Malaysia,
Mexico, New Zealand, Nicaragua, Panama, Seychelles, Singapore, South Korea, USA, Uruguay, Venezuela.
For more detailed information please check the following site: www.kum.hu

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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:16 Page 6

HUNGARY’S FOREIGN REPRESENTATIONS BUDAPEST BASICS


Great Britain 2 Fitzwilliam Place, Climate
Hungarian National Dublin 2 Temperate zone, continental
Tourist Office ≥ (353 1)6612-879 climate, four seasons.
46 Eaton Place ¥ (353 1)6612-889 Hottest months: July, August
London SW1X 8AL E-mail: info@visithungary.ie (temperatures can reach 28–35°C)
≥ (44-20)7823-1032 (general www.visithungary.ie Coldest months: December,
public) January (temperatures can fall as
≥ (44-20)7823-1055 USA low as –15°C)
(profession) Hungarian National Budapest has a relatively high
¥ (44-20)7235-9840 Tourist Office number of hours of sunshine per
E-mail: 150 East 58th Street, annum. It exceeds 8 hours per day
htlondon@hungarytourism.hu 33rd floor, between April and September.
www.hungarywelcomesbritain.com New York, N.Y. 10155-3398
≥ (1-212)355-0240 Time zone
Ireland ¥ (1-212)207-4103 Budapest is on Central European
Hungarian National E-mail: time (CET).
Tourist Office htnewyork@hungarytourism.hu GMT +1 hour
Hungarian Embassy, www.gotohungary.com Summer time (March to the

Low-cost airlines
BUDAPEST IN EUROPE
flying to Budapest (as
at November 2004)

6 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:17 Page 7

middle of October): GMT +2 Budapest facts and figures Buda: comprising one-third
hours Area: of the area of the city on the
525 square kilometres (in a north- hilly, right bank of the Danube
Holidays south direction approx. 25 km, Pest: comprising two-thirds of
Non-working days: national holi- east-west approx. 29 km) the area of the city on the flat,
days (15 March, 20 August, 23 Oc- Population: left bank of the Danube
tober) and 1 May (May Day) plus 1 815 000 Islands (from north to south):
Christian holidays: 1 January, All Population density: Óbuda Island, Margaret Island,
Saint’s Day (1 November), Easter 3456 persons/square kilometre Csepel Island
Mon., Whit Mon., Christmas and Administrative structure: Bridges: nine bridges, of which
Boxing Day (25–26 December). 23 districts two are rail bridges

ARRIVAL IN BUDAPEST

By air Luggage search service: pályaudvar) VIII., Baross tér,


The Airport minibus service is • Ferihegy 2A: (+36-1)296-8108, ≥ (+36-1)413-4610
popular and relatively cheap: for (+36-1)296-7217 Western Railway Station (Nyugati
• Ferihegy 2B: (+36-1)295-3480,
(+36-1)296-7948
Telephone reservations for
MALÉV flights: (+36-1)235-3888
E Airport minibus service:
(+36-1)296-8555

By train
Budapest has direct rail links to
25 capitals. There are more than
50 international connections each pályaudvar) VI., Nyugati tér,
≥ (+36-1)349-8503
Southern Railway Station (Déli

HUF 2100 it will drop passengers


anywhere within the city limits. A
return ticket (HUF 3600) is valid
for six months.
day. Trains depart every three
hours between Budapest–Vienna, pályaudvar) I., Krisztina krt. 37/A,
with a travel time of less than ≥ (+36-1)375-6593
two and a half hours. INTERCITY Information on international rail
links running between the capital links: (+36-1)461-5500,
and the major towns around www.elvira.hu
Hungary are extremely popular All rail stations can be accessed
and comfortable. by the metro (‘Keleti pu.’, ‘Déli
Ferihegy 1 – Undergoing pu.’ stops on Metro line 2,
renovation, opening: Summer By rail ‘Nyugati pu.’ stop on Metro line
2005 There are three major international 3), but MÁV Hungarian Railways
Ferihegy 2A – terminal for all railway stations in Budapest: also operates a Railbus –
MALÉV Hungarian Airlines flights Eastern Railway Station (Keleti information: (+36-1)353-2722.
Ferihegy 2B – arrival and departure
terminal for foreign airlines, By coach
terminal for budget airlines Domestic coach services arrive at
Airport information: and depart from Népliget
Central number: ≥ (+36-1)219-8000, Stadionok
(+36-1)296-9696 ≥ (+36-1)220-6227, Árpád
Flight information: Bridge ≥ (+36-1)412-2597 and
(+36-1)296-7000 Etele Square in Buda

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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:17 Page 8

The Hungarian Highway Code in a safe area; drivers may not


(KRESZ) is based on the Vienna consume any alcohol before
and Geneva Convention, and as driving, and drunk drivers can be
such traffic signs and road fined upwards of HUF 30,000
markings are similar to those (USD 130); the speed limit in
found in other European built-up areas is 50 kph, outside
countries. However, it is built-up areas 90 kph, on main
important to highlight a few key roads 110 kph and on motorways
traffic regulations that tourists 130 kph; use of the horn in
visiting Hungary must observe at towns is only permitted in
all times: use of seatbelts in the moments of danger (despite
≥ (+36-1)382-4910. The front and rear seats is which, unfortunately, Hungarian
international coach station is at compulsory; only mobile phones drivers frequently use their horns
Népliget. fitted with loudspeaker and without proper reason).
Volánbusz Rt. has scheduled microphone may be used in cars, Hungarian Automobile Club
passenger coach services to and and it is recommended that (Magyar Autóklub) 24 hour
from the following countries: drivers making or receiving a call helpline: (+36-1)345-1755
Austria, Belgium, Bulgaria, Czech pull over to the side of the road Roadside breakdown service: 188
Republic, Denmark, France,
Germany, Great Britain, Greece,
Holland, Italy, Norway, Poland,
Portugal, Romania, Slovakia, CURRENCY Forint (Ft or HUF)
Switzerland, Sweden, Turkey, Coins 100 50 20 10 5 2 1
Yugoslavia.
Information on domestic and
international routes:
(+36-1)382-0888

By boat
Banknotes: 200 500 1000 2000 5000 10 000 20 000

Exchanging money
Exchanging money is only
permitted in licensed,
designated places. Do not
take the risk of changing
money on the street. You
are likely to find yourself
Hydrofoils run scheduled services with counterfeit money,
from Vienna and Bratislava to the besides which such
heart of Budapest between April transactions are illegal.
and October. The Hungarian National
There are three large Bank gives official daily
international quays on the foreign exchange and
Danube between Széchenyi currency rates on 23
Chain Bridge and Liberty currencies. Most banks
(Szabadság) Bridge. have 24-hour banknote
Information on Mahart Passnave exchange ATMs. Besides
sailings: (+36-1)318-6042 this there are many credit
card and cash card ATMs in
By passenger car operation day and night.
Of the four motorways and four Banks and travel agencies
highways in Hungary, seven can set (and modify) their
depart from Budapest (motorway own exchange rates, taking the bank of issue’s rate as the basis. Any
No. 8 is the exception). bureau de change has to have the current exchange rates clearly
Drivers are obliged to purchase a displayed. Please keep your exchange receipt in a safe place until
motorway sticker for the you depart the country. Broadly speaking, the best exchange rates
motorways M1, M3, M5 and M7 are to be found close to the rail stations and in the city centre (Petôfi
(obtainable at border crossing Sándor Street). Banks generally give a middle rate, and the airport
points and major petrol stations). and hotel exchange rates are not so competitive.

8 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:17 Page 9

GENERAL INFORMATION INTERNET


Telephone Accommodation Internet cafés are highly


Hungary code: 36, The capital has every category of fashionable in Budapest. The
Budapest: 1, accommodation from luxury following list details just some of
dialling code for hotel to paying guest rooms. the most popular locations
inland calls: 06. Free copies of Accommodation in offering Internet access:
Budapest Budapest can be picked up from
telephone information offices and hotel AMI
numbers are 7 digits, countryside receptions in town. V., Váci utca 40
numbers (including the trunk Other useful information on ≥ 267-1644
code) 8 digits. accommodation can be found on ó 9 am–2 am
If you wish to phone abroad from the homepage of the Tourism
Hungary, first dial 00, wait for the Office of Budapest: CEU NetPont
tone, and then dial the country www.budapestinfo.hu, and in V., Október 6. utca 14
code, town code and continue information offices (for addresses ≥ 328-3506
with the telephone number. and telephone numbers see page 5). ó Mon–Fri: 8 am–11pm,
Public phones operate with 20, Sat–Sun: 9 am–11 pm
50 and 100 forint coins and Postal services
telephone cards. The latter can Internet Café
be purchased in tobacconists, V., Kecskeméti utca 5
post offices, petrol stations and ≥ 328-0292
newsagents. It is cheaper to ó 10 am–10 pm
phone at the weekend, on public
holidays and in the evening. Internet Studio
Mobile telephone numbers are VI.,Dessewffy utca 45
9-digit, after dialling 06; ≥ 20/481-8688
depending on the telephone ó 10 am–1 am
company, the first two numbers
are 20, 30 or 70. Matáv Belváros
V., Petôfi Sándor utca 17–19
Credit cards ≥ 485-6612
The most commonly used credit ó Mon–Fri: 9 am–8 pm, Sat: 10
cards – AMEX, Diners Club, am–3 pm
Cirrus, EnRoute, Euro/Mastercard,
JCB, VISA – can be used to obtain Netcorner Business Center
cash from ATMs in banks and on VII., Rákóczi út 58
the streets as well as to pay bills ≥ 413-1538
in hotels, restaurants and shops.
Emblems on the door of the Westel-Enternet
establishment detail which credit Post offices are generally open V., Váci utca 1
cards are accepted. from 8 am–6 pm Mon–Fri, 8 ≥ 238-7570
am–noon on Sat. There are two ó 10 am–9 pm
post offices close to the rail
stations in Pest with longer Business centres in the major
opening hours: VI., Teréz körút hotels also offer Internet access
51. (open: Mon–Sat: 7 am–9 pm, facilities.
Sun: 8 am–8 pm), VIII., Baross tér
11/C (open: Mon–Sat: 7 am–9
pm).
IMPORTANT NUMBERS
Postal money services: credit
Ambulance: 104
cards (VISA, VISA Electron,
EuroCard/Mastercard, Maestro) Police: 107
can be used to make cash Fire service: 105
withdrawals at all post offices in Universal enquiries: 197
the capital. Post offices also Inland enquiries: 198
exchange Eurocheques, American International enquiries: 199
Express traveller’s cheques and Auto club help number: 188
postal orders. Speaking clock: 180

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Electricity from 7 am–6 pm, Office hours: generally


Hungary’s electricity network clothes shops between from 8 am–4 pm Mon. to Fri.
operates at 230 Volts. Plugs are 10 am–6 pm Mon. to Sat. Post offices: Mon–Fri: 8 am–6 pm,
the regulation continental type. Most shopping centres are also Sat: 8 am–1 pm (for details, see
open on Sun. Postal services section)
General opening times Tesco is open 24 hours a day, Banks: Mon–Thur: 8 am–3 pm,
Shops: food shops are open seven days a week. Fri: 8 am–1 pm

STAYING STREET-WISE

Security in Budapest Health matters, medical assistance


The general public security situation in the capital can Non-stop medical assistance:
be said to be good on an international average, and Falck SOS Hungary ≥ 200-0100
still it is better if tourists are prepared for certain
situations so that they do not end up feeling cheated. Non-stop dental service:
In general the tourist’s wallet is in greatest SOS Dental Service ≥ 267-9602
danger, and so it is advisable when using public
transport, at shopping centres, markets or any other Pharmacies in the capital are well stocked, and
busy area where people are jostling around to pay pharmacists may be able to suggest a medication
extra attention to wallets, purses and bags. for certain complaints.
Taxis are best pre-booked by phone; they are A notice on the door of pharmacies indicates the
cheaper and there is no chance that you will pick up address of the closest 24-hour pharmacy.
the one or two ‘private taxis’ who charge
outrageous fares. (For phone numbers of reputable Pharmacies operating around the clock:
companies, see the Taxi section p. 11.) Teréz Patika:
Always ask for a menu showing all the prices VI., Teréz körút 41, ≥ 311-4439,
before choosing which restaurant to eat at. This way Déli Gyógyszertár:
you can rule out any unpleasantness caused by XII., Alkotás utca 1/B, ≥ 355-4691
overcharging.
Never get mixed up in changing money or
gambling on the street. Carry documents, money
and credit cards in a closed, inner pocket, and don’t
carry a lot of cash around town. Never leave
valuables in your car.

Lost your passport?


You should report the loss of your passport to the
following authority:
Budapest and Pest County Directorate of the
Office for Immigration and Citizenship
Address: H–1117 Budapest, Budafoki út 60
≥ 463-9165, 463-9181
Open: 24 hours
If your passport is stolen, you must report the loss
to the local district police headquarters.
Emergency services: ≥ 107 or 112.
Tourinform telephone enquiries – Tourist Police:
438-8080

Left luggage
In Budapest left luggage counters and coin-
operated lockers are to be found at the rail
stations. There are two non-stop left luggage
counters at both the Eastern (Keleti) and the
Southern (Déli) Railway Stations, while the Western
(Nyugati) Railway Station has a left luggage
counter open from 5 am-midnight, and lockers
available 24 hours a day.

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CITY
transport
TRANSPORT IN THE CAPITAL

Public transport Single ticket (2004: 145 Ft): valid


Budapest has an efficient public for bus, tram, trolleybus, metro,
transport network made up of cogwheel railway for the entire
more than 180 bus, 14 trolleybus, length of the journey, as well as the
29 tram, and three metro lines. In suburban railway within the
general the buses, trams and administrative limits of Budapest.
trolleybuses operate between 4.30 The ticket has to be purchased
am and 11 pm. The three metro beforehand, and validated in the
lines intersect at Deák Square in ticket stampers found on the public
the centre of town. Metros run at transport (on the metro, either
2-15 minute intervals from 4.30 before you enter the metro or on
am to 11.10 pm. the platforms) before the trip starts.
The local suburban train (HÉV) It is worth finding out about
can be used to travel out to the different ticket types available
Csepel Island in the south of the (transfer ticket, day ticket, 3-day
city, and to nearby Szentendre, tourist ticket, metro section ticket,
Gödöllô and Ráckeve. metro section transfer ticket,
Maps sited at the entrances to metro transfer ticket etc.) as these
metro stations give a can save you money. The
comprehensive overview of the Budapest Transport Authority
entire public transport network in (BKV) has published a free
Budapest. Conditions of travel brochure in English and German
are also included, in German and entitled Information (available
English. from hotel receptions, Tourinform
offices), and which gives detailed
Tickets information about the types of
May be purchased at metro tickets and costs. Information can
stations, ticket machines, also be found on the following
tobacconists and newsagents. It is Internet site: www.bkv.hu requested to show your ticket on
perhaps best to buy your tickets Information on public all public transport or at exit
at a metro station because there transport: 06-80/406-611 points of the metro by ticket
you have a choice of several types Ticket controls:
of ticket and various passes. you may be

TAXIS
Budapest taxis have yellow number plates and a taxi and then calling them because a taxi ordered by phone
sign in yellow. (Any vehicle without these features is is cheaper than one called on the street.
operating illegally.) The total charge that has to be Budataxi: 233-3333, Budapest Taxi: 433-3333,
paid by the passenger is made up of three separate Central Hotel Taxi: 322-3344, Citytaxi: 211-1111,
parts: the basic charge which is irrespective of how far Expo Taxi: 205-5555, Fôtaxi: 222-2222, Rádiótaxi:
the journey is (maximum HUF 300 during the day, 377-7777, Taxi 2000: 200-0000, Tele 5: 355-5555,
maximum HUF 420 at night), a per kilometre charge 6x6 taxi: 266-6666.
which depends on how many kilometres are covered All cars must have a taximeter installed, and
during the journey (maximum HUF 240 per kilometre these also print out a receipt. Taxi drivers are
during the day, maximum HUF 336 at night), and the required to give an invoice on request.
waiting charge. The larger taxi companies work with Tipping: in general 10% of the fare is acceptable,
rates far lower than the maximum charges listed above. but this naturally depends on how satisfied the
It is well worth noting down their telephone numbers, passenger is with the service.

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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:17 Page 13

you leave your car in


BUDAPEST CARD — a P+R car park. P+Rs
Launched in 1997, this city card are generally found
is the tourist’s “best friend” for at metro stations
2- or 3-day (48 or 72 hours) city and bus termini
sightseeing tours. Children (Pest side of Árpád
under 14 travelling with the Bridge, Nagyvárad
card holder are also entitled to Square, Örs vezér
the benefits the card offers. The Square, Népliget
card includes a colour etc.), from where
prospectus (over 100 pages) in travellers can then
four languages with details of easily access public
how to use the card and all the transport for the
services and benefits that are onward journey.
available. Cards may be purchased in around 250 Cars parked illegally will be clamped by the
locations across the capital (airport, hotels, travel Municipal Public Roads Department. Any car fitted with
agencies, tourist information offices, main metro a wheel clamp will also have an information sheet in
stations), and in travel agencies abroad. several languages stuck to the windscreen to inform the
The Budapest Card provides the following driver how to go about having the clamp removed.
services:
• free travel on Budapest Transport Company Car parks and garages
(BKV Rt.) public transport Multi-storey car parks are generally open 24 hours a
• free admission to 60 museums and other day; most larger hotels also have an underground
important sites (Zoo, caves in Buda, Matthias garage. Some of the larger car parks: Krisztina Garage
Church) behind the Hotel Mercure Buda (I., Kosciuszko Tádé
• discounted city sightseeing tours by bus and boat utca), V., Aranykéz utca 4–6, V., Szervita tér 8, VII.,
• discounted tickets for folklore and other Nyár utca 20, Corvin Multi-storey Car Park (VIII., Futó
cultural programmes utca 52), Páva Multi-storey Car
• discounts offered in spa baths, restaurants, Park (IX., Mester utca).
shops, airport minibus, car rental and numerous
other places
Price: HUF 4700 (48 hours)
HUF 5900 (72 hours)

inspectors who wear armbands and have a badge


with photograph (they generally operate in pairs, but
there may be 4-5 inspectors on the metro). For this
reason, please keep your ticket until the very end of
your journey or until you have left the metro station.
Fines: if you travel without a valid ticket or pass or
if you contravene the conditions of travel, you have
to pay a fine. On-the-spot fine: HUF 2000; payment
by money transfer within 30 days: HUF 5500; fine
for payment by money transfer after 30 days: HUF
11 000. (2004 prices!)

Parking
The capital is sectioned into several parking zones,
and different parking fees are charged according to Rent-a-car
the zone (between HUF 120 and 400 per hour). A selection of the larger car rental companies:
Parking must be paid for between the hours of 8 am- Americana, Avis, Budget, Hertz-Mercure, LRI Airport
6 pm Mon. to Fri., and 8 am-noon on Sat. (Parking is Rent-a-car.
free on Sun.) On parking, a ticket must be purchased In general, all companies require that the person
from the nearest ticket machine for the entire period renting a vehicle is at least 21 years old, has had at
the car is to be left. This ticket should be displayed least one year’s driving experience, has a valid
behind the windscreen. Minimum parking time: 15 driving licence and passport.
minutes, beyond which the ticket machine gives a All the major rent-a-car companies have an office
ticket for the amount of time equivalent to the sum at the airport, and brochures on rent-a-car options
of money inserted. Maximum waiting time: 2-3 are available from hotel reception desks and
hours. For longer periods, it is recommended that Tourinform offices.

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[1] [2] [3] [4]

[5] [6] [7]

M U S E U M S , Churches
Most museums are closed on Monday. Budapest History Museum – B3
Admission charges show the lowest and highest Castle Museum 2 ●
rates. There may be several variations between I., Szent György tér 2 ≥ 225-7815 ó 10 am–6 pm
these two extremes, from student tickets to group (10 am–4 pm between 1 November and 28
rates. Prices valid to the end of 2004; admission February), closed Tue. —
charges are likely to increase in 2005. Collection of archaeological finds in Budapest.
— Budapest Card holders can visit over 60 Budapest in the Middle Ages: development of
museums free of charge or at a discounted rate. settlements from the Roman age to the 13th
century. The medieval Buda royal palace: collection
Aquincum Museum and Ruins [2] 1 ● E1 of original objects, seals, glassware, weapons,
III., Szentendrei út 139 ≥ 250-1650 tombstones. Gothic sculpture from the royal palace.
ó Tue–Sun: 9 am–5 pm, (Closed between 1 Nov. Budapest in modern times: historical moments in
and 14 April) — the life of a metropolis.
è Castle bus % HUF 250–800

Museum of Military History 3 ● A3


I., Tóth Árpád sétány 40 ≥ 356-9522
ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm (10 am–4 pm between
1 October and 31 March) —
A rich collection of weapons from the days before
the Turkish wars to the 20th century. Collection of
uniforms, flags, maps, ammunition and 28,000
coins. Memories of pilots who emigrated after the
Second World War. The exhibition “Thirteen Days,
about the 1956 Revolution”, is well worth viewing.
è Castle bus % free

Hopp Ferenc East Asian Art Museum 4 ● C2


VI., Andrássy út 103 ≥ 322-8476
Relics of the civilian town of Aquincum dating back ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm —
2000 years. Roman remains, collection of frescoes, The collection based on 19th century art collector
reconstructed organ from Antiquity, sculpture of Ferenc Hopp’s collection of 4000 items of East
Fortuna Nemesis, Hercules and Diana mosaics. Asian, and primarily Japanese and Chinese, objects
« from Batthyány Square towards Szentendre today has around 19,000 art objects. Among the
% HUF 200–700 pieces on display in the art collector’s former house

14 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:17 Page 15

are important Japanese medieval art items and Cologne art collector couple Irene and Peter
Chinese bronzes and porcelain-ware. Ludwig. A visit provides an overview of the past 50
1 Bajza utca ç 4 ë 70, 78 % 150–300 HUF years of universal art, and contemporary Hungarian
art from the last 10 years.
Museum of Applied Art [3] 5 C4 ● è Castle bus % HUF 300–600
IX., Üllôi út 33–37 ≥ 456-5100
ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm — Transport Museum 9 ● D2
The beautiful Art Nouveau building XIV., Városligeti körút 11 ≥ 273-3840
(with Zsolnay ceramics on the roof) ó Tue–Fri: 10 am–5 pm, Sat–Sun: 10 am–6 pm
designed by Ödön Lechner and Gyula (closes one hour earlier from October to May) —
Pártos is one of the most attractive One of Europe’s oldest transport history
sights in the capital. Major collections and collections. Its model railway material is world
art objects: Oriental rug collection, wall famous. Permanent exhibitions over 8,000 square
hangings, Esterházy treasury, 17th century metres include: 100 years and today, 100 years of
aristocratic costumes, Art Nouveau glassware, Italian Hungarian motoring, A century of Hungarian state
majolica, Zsolnay ceramics, French furniture, shipping, History of Motoring, History of steam
Augsburg Baroque goldsmith’s work. locomotion, History of urban transport.
3 Ferenc krt « 4, 6 % Permanent exhibition: « 1 ë 70, 72, 74 % free
free, temporary exhibition: HUF 300–600
Hungarian National Gallery [7] 10 ● B3
Kassák Lajos Memorial Museum 6 ● B1 I., Dísz tér 17 ≥ 375-8584
III., Fô tér 1 ≥ 368-7021 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm — ó Tue–Sun.: 10 am–6 pm —
Exhibition in the former Zichy Mansion on the art of The collection of 10,000 art objects sited in wings
Lajos Kassák, leading artist of Hungarian avant-garde, B, C and D of Buda Castle Palace covers the period
poetry, painting and literary editor. The museum’s from the foundation of the state to the present day.
new permanent exhibition: 20th century Hungarian Permanent exhibitions: Medieval and Renaissance
art, from the legacies of Hungarian authors. lapidarium, Gothic wood carvings and tableaux,
ç 6, 86 « 1 « Árpád híd % HUF 100–150 Late Gothic winged altars, Renaissance and Baroque
art, Habsburg palatine crypt, 19th century painting
Kiscell Museum 7 ● A1 (Gyula Benczúr, Mihály Munkácsy, Viktor Madarász,
III., Kiscelli utca 108 ≥ 388-7817 Pál Szinyei Merse) and sculpture (István Ferenczy,
ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–4 pm — Miklós Izsó), 20th century painting (József Rippl-
The museum building was constructed for the Rónai, Tivadar Csontváry Kosztka, Béla Czóbel) and
Trinitarian order in the 18th century, while it was later sculpture (Béni Ferenczy, Ferenc Medgyessy).
transformed into a Baroque mansion and even served è Castle bus % Permanent exhibition: free,
as a hospital. Today it is one of the museums of temporary exhibition: HUF 300–600
Budapest in perhaps the most picturesque of locations,
surrounded by woods at the foot of the Óbuda Hills. Its Hungarian National Museum 11 ● C3
exhibitions embrace two major areas of collections from VIII., Múzeum körút 14–16 ≥ 338-2122 ó Tue–Sun: 10
the Budapest History Museum: modern urban history, am–6 pm (10 am–5 pm from November to May) —
and the fine art collection of the Municipal Gallery. The museum (founded in 1802) was based on the
« 17 ç 60, 165 % HUF 200–600 numismatic, book and document collections of
Count Ferenc Széchényi, and the number of art
objects now exceeds one million. The huge national
collection has occupied its present site, a neo-
Classical building designed by Mihály Pollack, since

Museum of Contemporary Arts – B3


Ludwig Museum Budapest 8 ●
I., Buda Castle Palace, wing A
≥ 375-9175 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm —
The Hungarian contemporary art collection of
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:17 Page 16

1846. Permanent exhibitions: History of Hungary Óbuda Museum 16 ● B1


from the foundation of the state to 1990, III., Fô tér 1 ≥ 250-1020 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–7.30 pm
Lapidarium-Roman stone finds. The collection in the Zichy Mansion includes historical
3 Kálvin tér « 47, 49 ç 15, 9 % Permanent documents and relics of the industrial history of Óbuda
exhibition: free, temporary exhibition: HUF 400–800 and surroundings, running from Roman times to the
20th century. One can view Art Nouveau interiors and
Hungarian Natural History Museum 12 D4 ● toy and game collections in its permanent
VIII., Ludovika tér 6 ≥ 210-1085 exhibitions, as well as wrought-iron decorative
ó 10 am–6 pm, closed Tue. — work from old Óbuda houses.
This imposing neo-Classical building « Árpád híd « 1
together with the courtyard has hosted % HUF 200–300
the museum’s mineral and rock collection
since 1995. Permanent exhibitions: Man Museum of Fine Arts [6] 17 C2 ●
and nature in Hungary, Treasures from XIV., Dózsa György út 41 (Heroes’
the mineral collection, Time track-rock Square) ≥ 469-7100
park in front of the museum. ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–5.30 pm —
3 Klinikák % Permanent exhibition: free, The core of the museum material
temporary exhibition: HUF 600–1200 derived from the superb collection of paintings
formed by the Esterházys and donated in the 1870s.

Palace of Arts [1] 13 C2 The grandiose neo-Classical building in Heroes’
XIV., Dózsa György út 37, (Heroes’ Square) Square has housed the collection (now around
≥ 363-2671 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm — 100,000 art works) since 1906. The museum has a
The largest exhibition gallery in the country, a broad collection of foreign art from Antiquity to the
defining neo-Classical structure in Heroes’ Square. present day. In addition to the Egyptian, Greek and
It does not have its own collection, but its regular Roman collections, the Italian collection, which
temporary exhibitions feature mainly the gives a comprehensive overview of Italian schools of
contemporary arts, and the works of artistic painting from the 13th to the 18th century, is very
groups. rich. The jewels of the Spanish collection are seven
1 Hôsök tere ç 4 ë 75, 79 El Greco works, and among 19–20th century
% HUF 300–600 masterworks French painting is most
comprehensively represented.
Nagytétény Mansion Museum 14 ● E2 1 Hôsök tere ç 4 ë 75, 79 % Permanent
XXII., Kastélypark utca 9–1 exhibition: free, temporary exhibition: HUF 400–800
≥ 207-5462 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm (10 am–4
pm between 1 November and 14 March) — Statue Park [5] 18 ● E2
Not only Budapest’s, but indeed one of the XXII., Balatoni út (road No. 70)-corner of Szabadkai
country’s finest Baroque-age palaces. The mansion, út ≥ 424-7500 ó daily: from 10 am–dusk —
built on 15th century Gothic foundations, took on its Multi-ton socialism: mega-statues removed from
present form in 1766. Today the mansion forms public parks and streets around the capital,
a part of the Museum of Applied Art, and its monumental representations of the period of
rooms have a magnificent collection of socialism in Hungary (Lenin, Marx, Engels,
European furniture (around 300 pieces, Soviet soldiers etc.).
single items and suites) dating from the 15th ç 14, 114, 50 % HUF 200–600
to the 19th century.
ç 3 % Permanent exhibition: free, Vasarely Museum 19 ● B1
temporary exhibition: HUF 200–400 III., Szentlélek tér 6 ≥ 388-7551
ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–7.30 pm —
Museum of Ethnography 15 ● B2 The museum is named after Hungarian-
V., Kossuth tér 12 ≥ 473-2400 born painter Gyôzô Vásárhelyi who
ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm — moved to Paris in 1930 to work, and who
One of Europe’s largest specialist museums as Victor Vasarely gained world fame as
with around 139,000 Hungarian and 53,000 the founder of the op-art movement. His pictures use
international art objects. The former royal court, a sharp colours, geometric forms and optical illusions.
magnificent building sited opposite Parliament, The exhibition material encompassing the entire
combines Renaissance, Baroque and neo-Classical oeuvre of the artist is selected from 400 works
elements. Permanent exhibitions: Traditional culture bequeathed to the Museum of Fine Arts.
of the Hungarian people, From primitive societies to « Árpád híd « 1 % free
civilization.
« 2 2 Kossuth Lajos tér ë 70, 78 % Permanent Jewish Museum 20 ● C3
exhibition: free, temporary exhibition: HUF 250–700 VII., Dohány utca 2 ≥ 342-8949 ó Mon–Thur: 10

16 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:17 Page 17

am–5 pm (10 am–3 pm between 1 November and Bible Museum C4


14 April), Fri, Sun: 10 am–2 pm — IX., Ráday utca 28 ≥ 217-6321
The museum, built in fitting style and attached to ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–5 pm —
the uniquely beautiful Dohány Street Synagogue, 3 Kálvin tér ç 15 % free
has an unparalleled collection of Judaica. Permanent
exhibitions: Devotional objects for Jewish Budapest Exhibition Hall B3
celebrations, Everyday objects, History of the V., Szabadsajtó utca 5 ≥ 318-8097
Hungarian Holocaust. ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm —
2 Astoria ë 74 « 47, 49 % HUF 400–1000 (The « 2 ç 5, 8, 7 3 Ferenciek tere % HUF 150–300
price of admission includes entry to the museum
and synagogue) Citadel B4
XI., Gellérthegy, Citadella sétány ≥ 466-5794
ó 9 am–9 pm
Interior courtyard: “Past and Present of Gellért Hill”,
“St. Gellért Memorial Park”, “Waxworks 1944,
bunker and exhibition”
ç 27 « 18, 19, 41, 47, 49, 118 % HUF 0–1200

MEO Contemporary Art Collection 21 ● E1


IV., József Attila utca 4–6 ≥ 272-0876 ó Tue–Thur,
Sat–Sun: 11 am–6 pm, Fri: 11 am–10 pm —
MEO Contemporary Art Collection plays a unique role
in presenting Hungarian contemporary fine art.
Hungarian contemporary artists and outstanding
figures from the world of international fine art Dorottya Gallery B3
regularly stage exhibitions in the galleries (over 2600 V., Dorottya utca 8 ≥ 266-0877 ó 1 Sept–30 April:
square metres of floorspace) of the MEO’s extravagant Mon–Thur: 1–7 pm, Fri–Sat: 11 am–7 pm —
complex. These displays provide the art-loving visitor 1 Vörösmarty tér 2 3 Deák tér « 2 % free
with a memorable and lasting experience.
3 Újpest–Városkapu % HUF 200–600 Budapest Gallery Exhibition House B1
III., Lajos utca 158 ≥ 388-6771
OTHER MUSEUMS, EXHIBITION ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm —
HALLS, GALLERIES « Árpád híd « 1 % HUF 100–200

Agricultural Museum C2 Ernst Museum B3


XVI., Vajdahunyad Castle ≥ 363-1973 ó Tue–Fri: 10 VI., Nagymezô utca 8
am–5 pm, Sat.: 10 am–6 pm, Sun.: 10 am–5 pm — ≥ 413-1310
1 Széchenyi fürdô ç 4 ë 70, 72, 79 ó Tue–Sun: 11 am–7 pm —
% HUF 200–500 « 4, 6 (Oktogon) 1 Opera
ë 70, 78 % HUF 250–500
Ambulance Service Museum B2
V., Markó utca 22 ≥ 350-3737/4188 Ferenc Liszt Memorial Museum and C3
ó Mon–Sun.: 9 am–1 pm — Research Centre
3 Nyugati tér « 4, 6 % HUF 50–100 VI., Vörösmarty utca 35 ≥ 322-9804
ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–6 pm, Sat: 9 am–5 pm —
Arany Sas (Golden Eagle) Pharmacy Museum A3 1 Vörösmarty utca ç 4 % HUF 180–370
I., Tárnok utca 18 ≥ 375-9772 ó Tue–Sun: 10.30
am–5.30 pm (10 am–3.30 pm between 1 Fire Service Museum F1
November and 28 February) — X., Martinovics tér 12 ≥ 261-3586
ç 16 è Castle bus % free ó Tue–Sat: 9 am–4 pm Sun: 9 am–1 pm —
ç 9, 32, 62 « 3, 28 % free
Béla Bartók Memorial House E1
II., Csalán út 29 ≥ 394-4472 Flag Museum C3
ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–5 pm — VIII., József körút 68 ≥ 334-0159
ç 5 (to the Pasaréti Square terminus) % HUF 150–400 ó Tue–Sun.: 11 am–6 pm — « 4, 6 % free

www.budapestinfo.hu 17
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:17 Page 18

Foundry Museum E1 Hungarian Electrical Engineering Museum B3


II., Bem József utca 20 ≥ 202-5327 ó 1 March–31 VII., Kazinczy utca 21 ≥ 322-0472
October: Tue–Sun: 9 am–4 pm 1 November–28 ó Tue–Sat: 11 am–5 pm —
February: Tue–Sun: 10 am–5 pm — 2 Blaha Lujza tér ë 74 % free
2 Batthyány tér ç 11, 60, 86 « 4, 6, 19, 41 % free
Hungarian National Television B3
Gallery of the Óbuda Society Circle B1 Museum of the Technical and Programming TV
III., Kiskorona utca 7 ≥ 250-0288 ó Tue–Sun.: 2–6 pm V., Október 6. utca 9 ≥ 269-2265 ó Tuesday: 10
« Árpád híd % HUF 100 am–2 pm, Thursday: 2–6 pm,
Saturday: 10 am–2 pm
Gizi Bajor Museum of Actors and Actresses B1 1 2 3 Deák tér ç 15, 16, 105 % free
XII., Stromfeld Aurél utca 16 ≥ 356-4294
ó Thur–Fri: 2–6 pm, Sat–Sun: 10 am–6 pm
ç 102 « 59 % Groups welcome: HUF 1000–2000

Holocaust Memorial Centre C4


IX., Páva utca 39 ≥ 455-3320, 455-3333
ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm
« 4, 6, 30, 30A
3 Ferenc körút
% free

KOGArt House [7] (Kovács Gábor Art Foundation) C2


VI., Andrássy út 112 ≥ 354-3820 ó 10 am–6 pm
% HUF 400–800

Magyar House of Photographers


(Mai Manó Ház) B3
VI., Nagymezô utca 20 ≥ 473-2666 ó Mon–Fri: 2–7
pm, Sat, Sun and holidays: 11 am–7 pm —
ë 70, 78 1 Opera « 4, 6 (Oktogon) % HUF 200–400

House of Terror Museum C3


VI., Andrássy út 60 ≥ 374-2600 ó Tuesday–Friday:
10 am–6 pm, Saturday–Sunday: 10 am–8 pm —
1 Oktogon « 4, 6 ç 4 % HUF 600–1200
(1)

Medieval Jewish Prayer House A3


I., Táncsics Mihály utca 26 ≥ 225-7815
ó 1 May–31 October: Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm —
ç 16 è Castle bus % HUF 150–400

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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:17 Page 19

Miksa Róth Memorial House C3 Stamp Museum C3


VII., Nefelejcs utca 26 ≥ 341-6789 VII., Hársfa utca 47 ≥ 341-5526 ó Tue–Sun: 10
ó Tue–Sun: 2–6 pm am–6 pm —
ç 7, 78 2 Keleti pályaudvar % HUF 60–150 « 4, 6 ë 74 % HUF 50–100

Museum of Crime C3 Telephone Museum A3


VIII., Mosonyi utca 7 ≥ 477-2183 I., Úri utca 49 ≥ 201-8188
ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–5 pm — ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–4 pm —
2 Keleti pályaudvar ç 7, 7, 173, 78 « 24 ë 80 è Castle bus % HUF 50–100
% free
Textile Museum B1
Museum of Hungarian Commerce and A3 III., Lajos utca 136–138 ≥ 367-5910
Catering ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–4 pm —
I., Fortuna utca 4 ≥ 375-6249 « Tímár utca ç 6, 86 % HUF 250–300
ó Wed–Fri: 10 am–5 pm, Sat, Sun: 10 am–6 pm —
ç 16 è Castle bus % free

National Geological Museum D3


XIV., Stefánia út 14 ≥ 267-1427 ó 8 Jan–21 Dec:
Thur, Sat, Sun: 10 am–4 pm —
2 Népstadion ç 7 ë 75, 77
% HUF 150–250

Pál Molnár-C. Studio A4


Museum
XI., Ménesi út 65 ≥ 385-3637
May be visited by prior
arrangement
ç 27 « 61 % free Tomb of Gül Baba E1
II., Mecset utca 14 ó 1 May–30 Sept: Tue–Sun: 10
Petôfi Literary B3 am–6 pm 1–31 Oct: Tue–Sun: 10 am–4 pm
Museum ç 91
V., Károlyi Mihály utca 16
≥ 317-3611 Trafó Gallery House of Contemporary Arts C4
ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm IX., Liliom utca 41 ≥ 456-2040
3 Ferenciek tere ç 15 ó Mon–Sun: 4–7 pm
% HUF 110–280 « 4, 6 3 Ferenc körút % free

Postal Museum B3 Underground Railway Museum B2


VI., Andrássy út 3 V., Deák Square-pedestrian underpass
≥ 269-6838 ≥ 461-6500 ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–5 pm —
ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm — 1 2 3 Deák tér « 47, 49 ç 9, 16, 105
ç 4 1 Bajcsy Zsilinszky út 2 3 Deák tér % cost of a tram ticket (HUF 145)
% HUF 50–100
Varga Imre
Ráth György Museum C2 Collection E1
VI., Városligeti fasor 12 ≥ 342-3916 III., Laktanya utca 7
ó Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm — ≥ 250-0274
1 Bajza utca ç 4 ë 70, 78, 79 ó Tue–Sun:
% HUF 200–400 10 am–6 pm —
« Árpád híd
Semmelweis Museum of Medical History A3 % HUF 200-400
I., Apród utca 1–3 ≥ 201-1577
ó Tue–Sun: 10.30 am–5.30 pm — Zoltán Kodály Memorial Museum and C2
ç 5, 78, 86 « 18, 19 % free Archives
VI., Kodály körönd 1 ≥ 352-7106
Sport Museum C2 ó Wed: 10 am–4 pm,
XIV., Dózsa György út 1–3 ≥ 252-1696 Thur–Sat: 10 am–6 pm, Sun: 10 am–2 pm —
ó Mon–Thur, Sat–Sun: 10 am–4 pm — 1 Kodály körönd
2 Stadionok « 1 ë 75, 77 % free % HUF 100–200, free on Sunday

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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:17 Page 20

Róth. The church treasury preserves 17–18th century


liturgical objects.

Dohány Street Synagogue [4] B3


VII., Dohány utca 2 ≥ 342-8949
ó Mon–Thur: 10 am–5 pm (10 am–3 pm between
1 November and 14 April),
Fri, Sun: 10 am–2 pm —
2 Astoria ë 74 « 47, 49
% HUF 400–1000 (The price of admission
includes entry to the museum and synagogue)

[8]

CHURCHES,
ECCLESIASTICAL COLLECTIONS
Inner City Franciscan Church B3
V., Ferenciek tere
Open to visitors every day
In the 13th century a monastery and church stood (2)
on the site of the present-day church, while its
current decorative Baroque form was given in the The glorious building in Byzantine-Moorish style is
18th century. The frescoes speak of the talent of Europe’s largest synagogue. It was built by Viennese
Károly Lotz and Vilmos Tardos Krenner. The architect Ludwig Förster in the middle of the 19th
Baroque main altar and the statues decorating the century. One of Budapest’s most imposing historical
altar are particularly attractive. monuments, it is faced in white and red brick, with
3 Ferenciek tere a wealth of ceramic decorative elements and two
onion-dome towers. The museum has an
Inner City Parish Church B3 unequalled collection of Jewish-related items from
V., Március 15. tér 2 the Roman period to the 20th century.
≥ 318-3108
Open to visitors every day during church services Lutheran Church B3
3 Ferenciek tere « 2 V., Deák tér, ≥ 483-2150 ó daily 8 am–6 pm
The oldest church in Pest, built in the 12th century in National Lutheran Museum:
Romanesque style on the site of the grave of martyr Tue–Sun: 10 am–6 pm
Bishop Gellért. Nothing remains of the original ç 4, 9 « 47, 49 1 2 3 Deák tér
church; over the centuries it took on Gothic In line with the Puritanism of Protestant churches
features, and during the 17th century it was used by
the Turks as a mosque. Following a fire in 1723 it
was rebuilt in Baroque style, but the interior has
neo-Classical features too. Main sights: Gothic
chapel, neo-Gothic carved pulpit, 15th century
Italian frescoes and 20th century main altar.

Inner City Calvinist Church B4


IX., Kálvin tér
Open to visitors every day
« 47, 49 3 Kálvin tér ç 9, 15 ë 83
Built in the 19th century in neo-Gothic style, its four-
column portico at the main entrance was built by
József Hild. The organ loft and pulpit were also built
to his designs. The church has renowned stained
glass windows designed by the master artist Miksa

20 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:17 Page 21

the building, a striking feature in Deák Square, is


characterized by the typical simplicity of early neo-
Classicism. Although the church was built between
1797–1808, its final facade with tympanum
supported by Doric columns was completed only in
1856. Its superb acoustics make it a popular
location for evening organ concerts. The adjacent
National Lutheran Museum has an interesting
exhibition revealing the history of the Hungarian
Reformation.

St. Stephen’s Basilica [8] B3


V., Szent István tér ≥ 317-2859
ó daily 9 am–5 pm (in winter: 10 am–4 pm)
1 Bajcsy-Zsilinszky út 2 3 Deák tér
The largest church in Budapest. Its 96-metre-high
dome affords a view over virtually the entire city.
Building started in 1851, and then in 1867 the work
was taken over by Miklós Ybl, the greatest architect
of the day, and finally concluded in 1905 by József
Kauser. The neo-Classical building holds the greatest
reliquary of the Hungarian people: the mummified
arm, the Holy Right, of King St. Stephen, after
whom the basilica is named. Among the church’s
famous works of art are sculptures by Alajos Stróbl,
and a painting by Gyula Benczúr: St. Stephen
dedicating the country to the Virgin Mary.

Serbian Church B4
V., Szerb utca 2–4 Open to visitors every day
3 Kálvin tér
Built by Serbian settlers in Baroque style in 1698. Its
interior is patterned on the plan of Greek Catholic
Matthias Church A3 churches: a wooden railing separates the women’s
I., Szentháromság tér ≥ 355-3657 church from the church for men built one step
ó daily 6 am-8 pm, ecclesiastical history exhibition, lower down. Pictures in the iconostasis (1850) show
daily: 9.30 am–5.30 pm — Italian Renaissance influences.
è Castle bus
% HUF 270–550
Budapest’s most attractive and most famous
Catholic church, which due to its unique siting
largely defines the view of the Castle quarter as seen
from the Pest side.
The royal cathedral, the Church of Our Lady, was
built in several stages between the 13th and 15th
centuries. Today’s neo-Gothic form was given by
major reconstruction work directed by Frigyes
Schulek in 1896. Frescoes and stained glass
windows in the church were made by some of the
age’s finest artists (Károly Lotz, Mihály Zichy,
Bertalan Székely).
The marvellous collection of the church includes the
lapidarium, reliquary, coronation relics and the
treasury with goldsmith masterpieces and church
textiles.

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CULTURAL avenue
Welcome to Europe’s most diverse ●
17
Cultural Avenue!
You are invited to a remarkable
walking tour in Budapest.
No fewer than 18 museums, a host
of theatres running different shows,
the State Opera House, Basilica,
Synagogue, Funfair and Zoo are located
along Budapest’s Cultural Avenue. Select
from whatever interests you most!
The Cultural Avenue runs right through
the centre of Budapest between the
World Heritage Buda Castle district and
City Park. Concentrated along this axis are
most of the capital’s prominent sights,

cultural
insti-
tutions,
cafés,
theatres and
confectioneries,
not to speak of the
entertainment
quarter in City Park.
People of all ages will
find something to enjoy on
the Cultural Avenue.
Discover another – unique –
side to Budapest!


26


12

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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:17 Page 23

●1 Museum of Military History


●2 Hungarian Museum of
Commerce and Catering
●3 Museum of Music History

17
●4 Buda Castle Labyrinth
●5 House of Hungarian Wines
●6 Telephone Museum
●7 Matthias Church
●8 Ruszwurm Confectionery
●9 Golden Eagle Pharmacy Museum

10 House of Traditions

11 Funicular Railway

12 Hungarian National Gallery

13 Budapest History Museum

14 Semmelweis Museum of Medical
History

15 Chain Bridge

16 Gerbeaud Café

17 Four Seasons Gresham Palace
Hotel

18 Millennium Underground
Museum

19 Erzsébet Square Cultural Centre

20 Synagogue

20 ●
21 Merlin Theatre

22 St. Stephen’s Basilica

23 Postal Museum

24 Czech Cultural Institute

25 Austrian Cultural Institute

26 Hungarian State Opera House

27 Mûvész Café

28 Goethe Institute

29 Hungarian House of Photography

30 Ernst Museum

31 Budapest Operetta Theatre

32 Moulin Rouge

33 Jókai Square and Liszt Ferenc
Square

26 ●
34 Academy of Music

35 House of Terror Museum

36 Ferenc Liszt Memorial Museum

37 Lukács Confectionery

38 Puppet Theatre

39 Kodály Memorial Room

40 KOGArt House

41 Hopp Ferenc Museum

42 Museum of Fine Arts

43 Palace of Arts (Mûcsarnok)

44 Skating Rink and Boating Lake

45 Gundel Restaurant

46 Hungarian Agricultural Museum

47 Municipal Zoological and
Botanical Gardens

48 Széchenyi Thermal Baths

49 Grand Circus

50 Funfair

51 Museum of Transport

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LEGEND

Motorway Information Office

Main road World Heritage site


Secondary road
Railway Church
Industrial railway
Synagogue
Suburban train (HÉV)
Museum
Metro station
Ruins
Built-up area, road, important
building Monument from the
Turkish period
Park, footpath
Monument, statue

Pedestrian zone, pedestrian street Theatre

Medicinal bath, swimming pool


Vacant area, business area, steps
Hotel
Sports ground
Market
Airport Botanical garden

Boat station Parking


Multi-storey car park
Coach station Underground garage
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 26

(3) (4) (5)

(6)

SIGHTS, sightseeing
SIGHTSEEING PROGRAMMES is packed with museums, for instance the Castle
Leaflets published by travel agencies specializing in Museum, Museum of Military History, Ludwig
city sightseeing tours around Budapest are available Museum displaying contemporary art, and the
from hotel reception desks and information offices. Hungarian National Gallery. The view from the
Visitors have a choice of sightseeing by bus, boat or Royal Palace across the Danube is breathtaking.
on foot. In addition to the traditional 12-16- Despite being rebuilt in neo-Gothic style, Matthias
language bus sightseeing tours the following special Church has managed to preserve its interior layout
programmes can also be recommended: trips first shaped 700 years ago. Once the church where
around Parliament, the Opera House and royalty was crowned, today its excellent acoustics
Ethnographical Museum, a walk in the Buda Castle, make it an ideal venue for organ concerts. Its
historical Pest, Jewish memories in Budapest, collection of ecclesiastical vestments is famous, and
Budapest by night, and the Red Star tour (features there is also a replica of the Hungarian Holy Crown
from communist times). preserved in the treasury. The pale masonry of
Boat sightseeing trips titled “Danube Bella” and Fishermen’s Bastion serves as a fine backdrop to
“Danube Legend” are organized by Legenda Kft. Matthias Church. Close by is the Hilton Hotel,
(≥ 266-4190).
Further information on city sightseeing
programmes is available on the web page of the
Tourism Office of Budapest (www.budapestinfo.hu).

ONLY ONE DAY?


WHAT YOU MUSTN’T MISS...
Budapest holds a front-ranking position among the
most attractive cities of the world. It successfully
combines a centuries-old architectural and cultural
heritage with the latest features of modern life;
cherished historical memorials are steadily regaining
their original forms (in line with available resources).
Anyone who has just one day to spend on
sightseeing around the capital needs a well-planned
programme. It would be a pity to miss the Buda
Castle, Danube embankment and Andrássy
Avenue, all World Heritage sites. The Castle district

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5) awarded the Hotel of the Year prize at the time it


was built. In summertime the Hilton café and
terrace are popular places to relax.
The most attractive parts of the Danube
embankment can also be observed while on the move.
Tram No. 2 travels the entire length of the
embankment, and a return trip affords an excellent
platform from where we can pick out the most
important buildings: departing from Jászai Mari Square
we soon arrive at Parliament, and then a little further
down the view of Matthias Church, Fishermen’s
Bastion and the Royal Palace unfolds across the river.
The tram rattles past one bridge after another,
including Chain Bridge, the oldest in Budapest.
Leaving Elizabeth Bridge behind, Gellért Hill
dominates the Buda scene, and then the marvellous
old Gellért Hotel and Spa Bath hove into view at
the foot of Liberty Bridge on the Buda side.
6) The Citadel (formerly a fortress, today a
museum), the most important lookout point in the
city, sits atop Gellért Hill and offers an unrivalled
panorama of World Heritage Budapest including the
Buda Castle district and both sides of the Danube
embankment. At the end of our tram ride stands
the new National Theatre on the Pest side close
to Lágymányos Bridge. On the return trip (on the
right-hand side) we have the dignified University

of Economics, behind which is the remarkable


Central Market Hall. Further back into town we
pass a series of top class hotels and the Vigadó,
whose concert hall and lobby are as dramatic as the
external view. The Gresham Palace, which has
been transformed into
a luxury hotel (Four
Seasons), and the neo-
Renaissance building of
the Hungarian
Academy of
Sciences, stand on
Roosevelt Square.
Andrássy Avenue is a key element in the Budapest
city plan. An early underground railway (in fact the
very first on the continent) still runs the length of
the Avenue; stations on the line have preserved
their original designs created 130 years ago, and
small exhibitions at each station detail the most
interesting buildings of the age. Our tour concludes
at Heroes’ Square where it is worth devoting time
to the world-famous collection of Spanish masters
and other treasures in the Museum of Fine Arts,
or the contemporary exhibitions staged in the
Palace of Arts on the opposite side of the square.

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OUR WORLD HERITAGE medieval castle walls; it affords a superb viewpoint


In 2002 the UNESCO World Heritage committee over the city. Right alongside, and happily alloying
enhanced the capital’s standing among the already the old with the new, stands the luxury Hilton
existing eight World Heritage locations in Hungary Hotel built over 25 years ago. The hotel courtyard
(Hollókô, Budapest, Pannonhalma, Hortobágy, Pécs, encompasses the cloister of a medieval monastery,
Tokaj, Aggtelek, Lake Fertô). This means that now inside which are the remains of an ancient church;
Andrássy Avenue and its historical environs join theatrical performances are held here each summer.
the Castle district and Danube embankment as The former Royal Palace and its attendant
holders of the prestigious World Heritage award, buildings represent an organic, and yet at the same
although it is true to say that local residents and time a separate part of the Castle quarter. The
visitors consider the award fully deserved, Budapest several historical sections, which were severely
being – in their eyes – one of the most beautiful damaged during the Second World War, have over
capitals in the world. the intervening years found new functions. Most
The Castle quarter represents the core of the wings of the palace have been turned into
ancient town and an area guarding some of the museums, and the National Széchényi Library is
most important historical monuments in the also here. Sándor Palace, once the residence of
country. And although in the 800 years since its the prime minister, is now the office and residence
foundation it has been hit by virtually every disaster of the president of the republic.
imaginable – earthquake, fire, siege and world war – The Royal Palace and its fine buildings form a
its beauty continues to shine through and its single entity with the rows of Danube embankment
medieval monuments are a delight. On entering the houses under Castle Hill, with Rudas Baths, built
quarter visitors generally get the impression they in 1566 by Pasha Sokoli Mustafa and once a cultic
have travelled back in time to a completely centre due to its proximity to a nearby Dervish
different, calmer age, where the gateways of monastery, as well as the cliffs of Gellért Hill and the
Baroque houses reveal Roman-age stones and finely bridges spanning the Danube. Among the latter,
carved sedilia from the age of chivalry. Underneath the oldest is Chain Bridge built in 1849, the most
the feet lies a vast labyrinth of caves, which graceful is Elizabeth Bridge, one of the earliest
served as a military station for 20,000 German suspension bridges, and the newest bridge on the
soldiers during the Second World War. One of the scene is Lágymányos, which diverts a considerable
defining buildings of Budapest, the over 700-year- amount of traffic away from the inner city. The
old Matthias Church, stands in Szentháromság century-old building of Parliament, built by Imre
(Holy Trinity) Square. Its Gothic tower and the Steindl in neo-Gothic style, defines the view on the
opposite side of the Danube. Behind this one can
see the dome of Budapest’s largest ecclesiastical
building, St. Stephen’s Basilica. Not far from this
stands the dignified edifice of the Hungarian
Academy of Sciences on the Pest end of Chain
Bridge, and beside it the Art Nouveau Gresham
Palace which has been completely renewed to
function as a Four Seasons luxury hotel. The
marvellous panorama is rounded off by the line of
hotels on the embankment and the grand old
Vigadó.
Andrássy Avenue and environs make up a
unified architectural form dating from the late 19th
century, despite which there are still clearly defined
sections to it. It was named after the former prime
minister who had done much to make Budapest a
true metropolis. The cream of Eclectic architecture is
to be seen along the Avenue, including the
backdrop of Fishermen’s Bastion make this one outstanding Opera House and many beautiful
of the most commonly photographed monuments. tenement blocks with intimate inner courtyards,
Over the course of centuries the church was the statues and fountains. But it is not only these
scene for many coronations, then it served as a buildings which are worthy of attention; the
Turkish mosque from 1541 before being re- Avenue’s environs boast a huge variety of
consecrated. Inside, the earthly remains of King Béla architectural styles and interesting sights. The near
III and his wife lie in a carved sarcophagus. The rich 2.5-km-long Avenue was inspired by the boulevards
collection of ecclesiastical art attracts many visitors of France, and it originally had a separate lane
each year. Fishermen’s Bastion was raised in neo- reserved for gentlemen out riding.
Romanesque style on the foundations of the (continued on page 30)

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(continued from page 28) SIGHTSEEING OVER 3 DAYS,


One of the special features of Andrássy Avenue is OR WHERE YOU
barely visible on the surface. The only give-away is the SHOULD GO IN BUDAPEST
occasional wrought iron balustrade leading We hope that Budapest will captivate you, and you
underground... Continental Europe’s first sub-surface have the chance of staying in our capital for at least
railway was built under the road, and the more than three days. But if you’ve already seen the Castle
125-year-old underground is still carrying passengers district, Danube embankment and Andrássy Avenue,
today along a line only slightly longer than the don’t despair: there are plenty of other things to see
original. There is a stop at and do!
the Opera House, the Parliament stands head and
creation of Miklós Ybl in shoulders above its neighbours on the
Italian Renaissance style. The Pest side of the river. Whether we are
building’s exterior is talking of its external neo-Gothic
imposing, the interior is appearance or its interior, there is but one
breathtaking, and its rich decoration and superb word to describe it: stunning. Today it
acoustics attract the greatest singers, dancers guards the Hungarian Holy Crown, Orb
and conductors from all over the world. After and Sceptre, while the 1004-year-old
Oktogon the museum visitor comes across a vast mantle, another part of the coronation
grey edifice, the House of Terror Museum set up in regalia richly embroidered with gold thread, is
the former headquarters of the dreaded state police. preserved in the Hungarian National Museum. Not
Inside is a permanent exhibition dedicated to the far from Parliament is St. Stephen’s Basilica, the
many victims of fascism and communism in Hungary. largest ecclesiastical building in Budapest and
Villas along the Avenue are named after their one- repository for the relic the Holy Right Hand of St.
time owners or designers. This is where you’ll find Stephen, Hungary’s first king. The Basilica’s dome
the East Asian Art Museum, established in the affords a superb all-round view of the city. One of
former home of Ferenc Hopp who collected most of the finest historical monuments in the capital, the
the works on display, and then bequeathed them to Opera House, stands on Andrássy Avenue. It is well
the nation. The embassies have residences in equally worth visiting not only for its brilliant performances
imposing villas. A fine Bauhaus building stands at but also for the magnificent grand stair and lavish
the corner of Munkácsy Mihály Street; this is the interior design. Buy tickets for an evening of
recently renovated Hotel Andrássy, designed by entertainment there. You’ll be able to enjoy the
Alfréd Hajós, Hungarian swimming champion at the classics or contemporary music in the form of opera
1896 Athens Olympic Games. The neo-Renaissance or ballet performed nearly every day of the week. It
Hungarian College of Fine Art also stands on will be a memory you’ll always treasure.
Andrássy Avenue; a memorial museum established However, should the history of transport, rare
in the former flat of Zoltán Kodály, one of the vehicles and the like, be more to your taste, then
greatest Hungarian composers of the 20th century, we can recommend the Transport Museum. The
can be accessed from Kodály Circus. collection, set up in a museum in City Park, displays
Andrássy Avenue terminates at the Millennium a whole variety of items from veteran cars to a
Monument erected to mark the thousandth space module. The museum’s model collection –
anniversary of the Magyar Conquest. Archangel incredibly detailed scale models of locomotives,
Gabriel stands atop the huge column, at the foot of carriages and ships – is spoken of around the world.
which are sculptures of the seven tribal chieftains. Life-size, working locomotives, the real thing, are on
The semi-circular pantheon surrounding this display in the Hungarian Railway History Park
ensemble has depictions of famous kings, generals (indeed, you can even try your hand at driving
and great historical figures. In the foreground is the one). The Park boasts around 100 fully functioning
memorial to the Unknown Soldier. Most visiting locomotives from the early days of steam up to
heads of state and government pay their respects at more modern times. Each year the legendary Orient
this monument. On one side of the square stands Express also makes several stops here.
the Museum of Fine Arts with a Spanish Aquincum is packed with memories of the
collection unrivalled outside Spain, and opposite the Roman period. The town was the seat of the
Palace of Arts, home to temporary exhibitions. province, and its excavated ruins allow one to
City Park Lake behind Heroes’ Square tempts conjure up in the mind an image of the once
the visitor to take out a boat in summer and skate in thriving centre complete with baths, amphitheatres
winter. The entertainment and cultural centres in and military encampment. An extensive furniture
City Park (Zoo, Funfair, Municipal Grand Circus, exhibition in the Nagytétény Mansion Museum
Széchenyi Spa, Vajdahunyad Castle built on a mini covers periods which came long after the Romans
island, the museums of agriculture and transport as had left: superb Renaissance, Baroque, Biedermeier
well as Petôfi Hall) are the capital’s favourite tourist and neo-Classical furniture. Budafok, famed for its
destinations. wine-making, lies not far from Nagytétény. Millions

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of litres of the very finest sparkling wines and select King Béla IV built a castle here after the Tartar
reds and whites lie maturing in the cavernous cellar invasion, and he chose this spot as the seat of royal
system hereabouts. A tour of the cellars combined rule. The Castle quarter on Castle Hill stands 180 m
with wine tasting takes at least half a day. above sea level. It is around 1.5 km long and in
A trip out to the Statue Park will prove an places it is 500 metres wide. It boasts three
unforgettable experience. Gigantic statues and churches, six museums, many historical buildings,
memorials erected during Communist times and monuments, streets and squares, a theatre, four
collected from all parts of the country (although hotels, numerous atmospheric restaurants, cafés,
largely from around the squares and streets of the galleries and gift shops. Breathtaking panoramas
capital) after the change of regime have been open from the Fishermen’s Bastion and the
brought together to make a stunning collection promenade in front of the National Gallery.
probably unique in the world.
Budapest is a spa city. Travellers were writing Royal Palace B3
about its remarkable medicinal waters in the 1500s. I. district Castle quarter – è Castle bus, Funicular
One of the Turkish baths built around that time is One of the symbols of the nation, the palace has
the Rudas, and it still employs some of the original witnessed wars and occupation from the 13th to the
fittings today. Gellért Spa is the most elegant in 20th century. The Turks occupied it, as did the
(7)

town, offering a bubble bath, open-air wave pool,


thermal pools and medical services to very high
standards.
Of course one’s tour, trip to a museum or spa
wouldn’t be complete without enjoying a fine meal
in one of the many excellent restaurants of the
capital, or coffee and cakes in an equally outstanding
confectionery. Budapest is proud of the Százéves
(100-year-old) Restaurant, which actually is well
past the magical century. In fact the Alabárdos,
Aranyszarvas (Golden Hind) and Kárpátia are
also getting on in age. Their furnishings and style are
delightful, and each serves traditional Hungarian
cuisine made to order, just as is the case in the
famed Matthias Cellar (Mátyás pince). Among
the confectioneries, the once renowned Hauer has
reopened on Rákóczi Road, and Mozart on Erzsébet
Boulevard serves the creme de la creme in cakes and
desserts. Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty Square and the
Zsolnay confectionery in the Béke Hotel are
elegant and old world, with delicacies served on fine
Hungarian porcelain.
We hope that in the course of getting to know
Budapest you’ll discover for yourself: you just can’t
help falling in love with this city.

Castle quarter and Castle Hill A-B3


I. district (Buda) – è Castle bus ç 16 Funicular
Part of the World Heritage. Due to its excellent
features it was settled as early as the 13th century;

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Habsburgs, it was destroyed three times and then holding the Hungarian Holy Crown and apostolic
rebuilt, each time in the architectural style of the double cross. Quarter-circular colonnades extend to
age. Today’s neo-Classical style was taken on after both left and right of the column. Between the
the Second World War. The building hosts several pillars of the colonnade are figures of the ‘greats’
distinguished institutions: the Hungarian National from Hungarian history, while the butt piers are
Gallery, Budapest History Museum, National embellished with emblematic sculptural ensembles
Széchényi Library and the Ludwig Museum. (work, welfare, knowledge, honour and peace). The
Tomb of the Unknown Soldier is positioned in front
Fishermen’s Bastion A3 of the monument. The magnificent buildings of the
I., Szentháromság tér – è Castle bus Palace of Arts and the Museum of Fine Arts to the
A relatively youthful structure next to Matthias right and left of the monument enhance the fine
Church. Building started in 1895 on the designs of architectural entity of Heroes’ Square.
Frigyes Schulek. It was sited on the place of the
medieval fish market and the walls protected by the Parliament B2
guild of fishermen, whence the name. The neo- V., Kossuth Lajos tér ≥ 317-9800 – Visits by guided
Romanesque bastion has only ever had a decorative tour only. – 2 Kossuth tér ç 15 « 2 ë 70, 78
role: it is a popular place to look out over Pest. The largest building in the country, the permanent
site of the national assembly, Parliament sits on the
Liberty Statue B4 Danube embankment with its entrance looking out
XI., Gellérthegy – ç 27, 86 « 18, 19, 41, 47, 49, 118 over Kossuth Square. The neo-Gothic building is the
The 14-m-high statue, the work of work of architect Imre Steindl, and was constructed
outstanding architect Zsigmond between 1884–1902. It has 691 rooms, is 268 m
Kisfaludy Strobl, was raised in 1947 in long and its cupola rises 96 m into the air. The
memory of the country’s liberation. And staircase is embellished with fine frescoes by Károly
even though the post-war period also Lotz and sculptures by György Kiss. The painting
marked the start of Soviet rule, the statue The Conquest by Mihály Munkácsy, the greatest
on Gellért Hill was not removed even after Hungarian painter, hangs in the congress chamber.
the change of regime since it had become Since 2000 the general public has been able to view
an indelible part of the cityscape. There are the Hungarian coronation regalia here: St. Stephen’s
two other sculptures at the foot of the Crown, the sceptre, orb and Renaissance sword.
female figure holding aloft the palm of
victory: one is an allegory of progress, the other the Hungarian Academy of Sciences B3
fight against evil. V., Roosevelt tér 9 – « 2 ç 16
The oldest and most significant building on
Hungarian State Geological Institute D2 Roosevelt Square. Its perfect neo-Renaissance design
XIV., Stefánia út 14 – 2 Stadionok ç 7 came from the studio of Berlin architect Stüler, and
One of the capital’s finest Art Nouveau buildings. It it was built between 1862–64. The grand gala hall
was designed by Ödön Lechner and built in 1899. decorated with pictures by Károly Lotz is also used
Its light blue ceramic roof and blue Zsolnay ceramic for staging concerts. There are lecture and session
decoration harmonize with the yellow-brown rooms, and a valuable scientific library. Allegorical
façade. Three figures can be observed on the sculptures in the imposing foyer and on the façade
middle roof crest holding a globe. There is a rock are the work of Miklós Izsó and Emil Wolf.
and mineral exhibition in the Institute.
Gresham Palace B3
Heroes’ Square C2 V., Roosevelt tér 5–6 – « 2 ç 4, 16, 105
XIV, City Park – 1 Hôsök tere ç 4 ë 79 This Art Nouveau building was commissioned by
The most spectacular square in the capital, sited at the Gresham Assurance Company, London, and
the entrance to City Park. Anyone coming up built in 1907 on the basis of designs by the brothers
Andrássy Boulevard sees from afar the 36-m-high József and László Vágó and Zsigmond Quittner. The
column in the centre of the Millennium memorial, most modern luxury apartments and offices of the
on top of which is a statue of the Archangel Gabriel day were established in the building. The Palace
features several statues, one of which (at the top of
the facade) is a bust of Sir Thomas Gresham,
founder of the London stock exchange. The Four
Seasons, the capital’s most exclusive luxury hotel,
opened here in 2004.

Central Market B4
IX., Fôvám krt. 1–3 – ç 15 « 2, 47, 49
The largest market in the capital, and the most

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attractive. It was built in 1890, designed by Samu French Institute B4


Pecz. Following its complete restoration in 1994 it I., Fô utca 17
has become one of the most popular and visited ç 86 « 19, 41
shopping sites among tourist circles. The imposing Of the contemporary
building of the University of Economics stands close buildings in Budapest this
by, at the Pest foot of Liberty Bridge. centre of French culture
built to the plans of George
Statue of St. Gellért B4 Maurios in 1992 takes a
XI., Gellérthegy – ç 7 « 18, 19, 41, 47, 49, 118 leading position. Although
designed to fit the form of
other blocks along the Danube embankment, details
of the building are radically modern. One
interesting feature is that the Institute is adjoined to
the inner courtyard of the neighbouring house with
a glass wall, thus anyone sitting in the buffet is
witness to the everyday comings and goings of a
typical Budapest apartment block.

Elizabeth Bridge B3
ç 5, 7, 7, 8, 78, 86, 173, « 2, 18, 19, 41, 118
The statue of Bishop Gellért, who died a martyr in In the year of its
the 11th century, stands opposite Elizabeth Bridge construction (1903)
on the south side of Gellért Hill. According to it was the world’s
legend this is the spot from where pagans pushed longest suspension
the missionary bishop, sealed in a barrel, down into bridge, a record it
the Danube. The striking statue is enhanced by the held until 1926. The
semicircular colonnade behind and the natural bridge was named
spring which rises to the surface at this point, and after the wife of
which turns into a waterfall below the statue. Emperor Franz Joseph, Hungary’s beloved Queen
Elizabeth. German troops blew up the original
Westend City Center B2 bridge in 1945. The new bridge was designed by
XIII., Váci út – « 4, 6 3 Nyugati pu. ç 6, 26, 91 Pál Sávoly and built in 1964.
At the end of 1999 the Western Railway Station,
unique in Europe, designed by Gustave Eiffel and Liberty Bridge B4
ranked as one of the most outstanding historical « 2, 18, 19, 41, 47, 49, 118 ç 7, 7/A, 15, 86
monuments of the capital, saw a new “neighbour” Originally called Franz Joseph Bridge, it was
move in next door: the stunning modern complex constructed in 1899, and following the destruction
called the Westend City Center. The complex of all the Budapest bridges in 1945 this was the first
(which has had a decisive impact on shaping the one to be rebuilt (1946) since it had suffered the
cityscape) has a 14-screen cinema, offices and least damage. During rebuilding all its decorative
60,000 square metre shopping centre (with motifs were retained: the mythical Turul birds, royal
waterfall in the vestibule). The 200-room Hilton coat of arms etc.
Budapest Westend, the latest Budapest hotel in the
Hilton chain, is integrated in the mega-complex on Chain Bridge B3
a site looking onto Váci Road. ç 4, 16, 86, 105 « 2, 19, 41
The capital’s first bridge, a historical monument, has
MOM Park A3 attracted many tourists
XII., Alkotás utca – ç 8, 139 « 61 to Budapest:
This large residential estate, shopping and photographs or film (8)
entertainment centre (inaugurated September of it illuminated at
2001) takes its name from the Hungarian Optical night, with the
Works (Magyar Optikai Mûvek – MOM) factory imposing
which once occupied the site. However, today the Buda Castle
only memory of the works is the former MOM rising in the background, make for a breathtaking
House of Culture built in socialist realism style on sight. Count István Széchenyi commissioned William
the plans of Károly Dávid Jnr. and which can be Tierney Clark to design the bridge and engineer
seen standing on the corner of Csörsz Street. The Adam Clark (no relation) to build it. Construction
park is the work of architects Antal Puhl and Tamás lasted from 1839–1849. The bridge did not escape
Noll, and is built according to the best traditions of the destruction of the Second World War, and it
classical modern Hungarian architecture. was rebuilt in 1949, on its 100th anniversary.

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ANTIQUES road show

[1]

ANTIQUES STREET the one her family had when she was young. The
PACKED WITH TREASURES association sparked memories of bygone days, which
Budapest’s street of galleries first began to coalesce just finally grew into a novel and then a popular stage play.
off Margaret Bridge around 10 years ago. A stroll Among the 21 shops and galleries on Falk Miksa
down just two blocks of Falk Miksa Street reveals more Street, some specialize in certain areas and some sell
than 20 shops and galleries stuffed with bric-a-brac, a kaleidoscope of antiques. Some are just 20 square
curios and objets d’art. (As an interesting aside, metres of shop floor, others are three-storey
politician and publicist Miksa Falk has gone down in emporiums. Most prop their doors open to entice in
history books as the person who taught Queen the curious, and many hold auctions of museum-
Elizabeth, wife of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph, to quality pictures, sculptures and other outstanding
speak Hungarian.) The items on display (and the art objects. Among the bigger companies there are
prices) are so tempting that not many have a couple who specialize in the works of a chosen
managed to walk from one end of the street to artist or stage temporary exhibitions of the finest
the other without at least seriously considering paintings by a particular school, thereby
making an “investment”. Lace-like delicate spreading the word and bringing to the
porcelain, silken carpets, carved or inlaid attention of the general public the oeuvre of
furniture, all are handcrafted masterworks. In artists who have sunken into obscurity. For
fact, the choice can sometimes be a bit example, the Kieselbach Gallery gives a
overwhelming. It is as though each piece comprehensive overview of modern Hungarian
has its own story to tell and is just waiting painting from 1919 to 1964.
to be discovered. One may be able to The street is often busy (and all the more so
conjure up in the mind images of the artists before the major holidays) with shoppers looking for
who created the old crochet-work curtains something really special for a loved one: perhaps an
and filigree-lace tablecloths, or even the Art Nouveau brooch or a cast iron wall-mounted
superbly worked wardrobes and tables. But sink (which, by the way, today has a new function as
who was the little girl who played with the delightfully a plant-holder). This is truly the place for a “made-to-
costumed doll over a century ago? How many sat in measure” gift! However, even slow days in Falk Miksa
this turn-of-the-century, squat swivel barber’s chair Street are interesting. Collectors pop their heads around
upholstered in leather. Who was the beauty captured the doors to check out the ever changing displays,
so vividly by this deft-handed painter? Where could perhaps in the hope of finding that object that will
this charming landscape be that calls to us so complete a missing gap in the collection, before their
evocatively? What convoluted route did this silver eye is taken by something else... Then there are others
candlestick take finally to end up in this shop? Then who just enjoy trawling through the shops, learning
again, it’s always pleasurable to mull over where such about the styles and periods, getting simple pleasure
and such a piece would go in the house. A famous from handling old peasant faience kitchenware, ancient
Hungarian writer once glimpsed a sugar bowl in one colanders, the thick green glass of soda siphons,
of the shops and bought it because it was the same as pharmacy jars, Murano chandeliers, Pakistani or Afghan

34 www.budapestinfo.hu
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hand-knotted wool or silk rugs, glorious Herend than a few thousand forints at most, there are some
porcelain and old horological timepieces, all the valuable rarities out there too. However, sorting the
creations of skilled hands from bygone days. 24-carat gold from fool’s gold requires not only a
good eye but some considerable luck too. A trip to
TREASURE, TRASH AND TRINKETS the flea market will almost certainly mean you’ll
AT ECSERI FLEA MARKET come across a painting, piece of porcelain or some
other antique which would look really good at
The largest second-hand market in Budapest, the flea home and be a pleasurable souvenir of Budapest.
market on Nagykôrösi Road, may be located some But don’t forget to bargain, because this is all part
distance from the centre of town and yet most tourists of the game! Tip: before getting down to
find the journey out there well worth the time. Known negotiations, decide the maximum price you’ll pay
by the locals simply as the “Ecseri”, the bustling and stick to it. You should never forget that most
market is an experience not only for those with a fixed dealers make their living selling to tourists...
aim but also for those who just want to do some “stall The Ecseri is a treasure trove of objects for serious
shopping”. After all, it is great fun to browse collectors and browsers alike because it is a gathering
through so many bits and pieces in the hope point for items from all over the Carpathian Basin
of turning up the occasional gem: including sub-Carpathia, Transylvania,
from trinkets to Art Nouveau Upper Hungary and the Vajdaság.
furniture, from black and white Moving further afield, some traders
greetings card to a silver fob travel all the way from Belgium
watch, from an early camera to and France, but mixed among
paintings of all schools and the stalls are Africans too selling
qualities, the Ecseri has it all. And antique silver. But Ecseri is not
more! Antiques, violins, gramophones, only about antiques because there
books, porcelain, old fashioned irons, are also stallholders selling leather
rugs and carpets, old soda siphons, pens, jackets and jeans at prices that put
dinner services, medals, militaria, lace... the downtown shops to shame. So whether
This is a cavalcade of old and new, the you come to buy or to browse, you’ll not be
superb and the showy, the glorious and the kitsch. Old disappointed by what you find here. And if you find
bronze pestles and mortars, bottles with marble stoppers, you really don’t need anything today, don’t leave
lead soldiers and military honours speak of bygone ages. empty handed! They do say the local lángos (fried
No wonder then that the visitor sometimes feels as dough smothered in sour cream, cheese and other
though time has stood still for a few decades. toppings) is the best in town.
The ramshackle market with absolutely no “extras” is
a world away from the modern, glitzy, air-conditioned „Ecseri” Flea Market
shopping malls of today. The Ecseri takes shopping to a 1194 Budapest, Nagykôrösi út 156 ≥ 282-9563
different level where passion is part of the story. Sellers ó Mon–Fri: 8 am–4 pm, Sat: 8 am–3 pm
are often eager to strike up a conversation with Access: tram 4 or 6 from Blaha Lujza Square to
potential buyers, extolling – at length – the virtues of Boráros Square, and then bus 54 to the market
their wares and spicing up bargaining with raised voice
and argument. The visitor can also claim that this is not Budapest Antique Market [1]
merely a shopping expedition but culture too. After all, Corner of Dévai utca and Kassák Lajos utca in
the variety of ancient wooden troughs, copper Budapest’s XIII district (close to the Western
watering cans and 100-year-old furniture on display can (Nyugati) Railway Station and Lehel Market)
be likened to a trip around an open-air ethnographical ó every day of the week from morning to late
museum! Gramophones, porcelain dolls and teddy evening
bears are jammed in between chests of drawers, “A Town within the Town – Past in the Present!” The
armchairs and oil paintings. Stands packed cheek by Budapest Antique Market preserves not only the
jowl with each other and overflowing with knick-knacks past of Hungary but that of Central Europe too. It
of every conceivable kind give one the sense of represents a remarkable hub for antiques in the
wandering an oriental bazaar. capital, offering a secure, friendly and pleasant
Every one of the items on sale has its own story. environment where buyers can browse the stalls for
And perhaps this very fact gives the market its the antique piece of their dreams. Around 90 shops
remarkable and sometimes mystical air. There is and 40 stands are located on the two floors of the
plenty of jewellery of the sort that grandmother recently renovated, 4000-square-metre market.
probably wore for large family get-togethers, dinner It permits specialist collectors to establish an accurate
services into which the Sunday soup was ladled year picture of the market for antiques in Hungary – styles,
after year, and violins with strings worn thin by quality, prices etc. – in one place, while tourists can also
generations of youthful Menuhin wannabes. enjoy the programmes, exhibitions and auctions
Although most items won’t set you back more regularly organized at the Budapest Antique Market.

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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 36

[2]

[1] [3] [4]

MUSIC, THEATRES, events


Hungarian classical and folk music is world-renowned. The names and works of Béla Bartók, Zoltán Kodály and
Ferenc Liszt have won Hungarian culture a considerable reputation. The concert halls of the capital attract not
only the best Hungarian artists, but also the greatest performers from every corner of the world. Each year the
Budapest Spring Festival and its counterpart the Budapest Autumn Festival host the very best of Hungarian and
international music, theatre, film and fine arts.
High standard opera and ballet performances of the Hungarian State Opera House and the Erkel Theatre
consistently play to full houses, and the audience can experience classical works of music in their original tongue.
The most famous Hungarian opera, Ferenc Erkel’s Bánk bán, and Béla Bartók’s beautiful ballet The Miraculous
Mandarin feature on programmes virtually all year round.
Aside from the successful operettas of Imre Kálmán, Pál Ábrahám and Ferenc Lehár (Countess Marica, Csárdás
Queen, Land of Smiles) playing in the renewed Budapest Operetta Theatre, the programme is also spiced with
popular musicals (Funny Girl, Sound of Music). The world famous musical Phantom of the Opera can be seen in
the Madách Theatre all year round. Several other theatres also feature Hungarian and foreign musicals on their
repertoires. The Merlin Theatre and IBS International Buda Stage most frequently perform works in English or in
other languages featuring Hungarian and foreign artists.
Globetrotting Hungarian folklore ensembles (State Folk Ensemble, Duna Artists Ensemble, Rajkó Ensemble etc.)
regularly take to the stage of the Buda Vigadó and Duna Palace.
The five-language monthly programme guide Budapest Panorama with detailed information on all the capital’s
cultural events and leisure opportunities is well worth scanning if you have just arrived in Budapest.
Complimentary copies of Budapest Panorama can be found in hotels and information offices.

MAJOR BUDAPEST THEATRES AND Arts Palace C4


CONCERT HALLS (National Concert Hall)
IX., Komor Marcell sétány 1
Hungarian State Opera House [4] B3 « 1, 2, 24 ç 23, 54, 103 « Csepeli HÉV «
VI., Andrássy út 22 ≥ 353-0170 Ráckevei HÉV % Charges vary
1 Opera ç 4
% HUF 300–6300 Pest Vigadó [3] B3
V., Vigadó tér 2
Academy of Music C3 ≥ 318-9167
VI., Liszt Ferenc tér 8 ≥ « 2 1Vörösmarty tér
342-0179 % Charges vary
« 4, 6 ë 70, 78
% Charges vary Erkel Theatre C3
VIII., Köztársaság tér 30 ≥ 333-0540
National Theatre [1] C4 ç 7 % HUF 400–2600
IX., Bajor Gizi park 1
≥ 476-6868 Budapest Convention Centre A4
« 2 ç 23, 54, 103 « Csepeli XII., Jagelló út 1–3 ≥ 372-5700
HÉV « Ráckevei HÉV ç 139 « 61
% HUF 1000–2500 % Charges vary

36 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 37

Millenary Park A2
II., Lövôház utca 39 ≥ 438-5312 BUDAPEST EVENTS – 2005
« 4, 6 % Charges vary (Preliminary programme)

Budapest Operetta Theatre B3 1 Jan New Year’s Day Gala Concerts


VI., Nagymezô utca 19 ≥ 353-2172 18 March–3 April Budapest Spring Festival
ë 70, 78 % HUF 850–5500 20–29 April Dance World Festival
10–19 June 10th International Danube Carnival
Duna Palace B3 18 June Bridge Festival and Danube
V., Zrínyi utca 5 ≥ 235-5500 Water Carnival
ç 15 « 2 % Charges vary 25–26 June 6th Budapest Equestrian Festival
25–26 June Budapest Farewell (Búcsú)
Thália Theatre [2] B3 2–27 July ‘Budafest’ – Buda Castle
VI., Nagymezô utca 22–24 ≥ 312-4230 summer evening performances
ë 70, 78 % HUF 850–5500 from opera to jazz
2 July–14 August Summer on Chain Bridge
Madách Theatre C3 (Sat–Sun)
VII., Erzsébet körút 29–33 ≥ 478-2041
« 4, 6 % HUF 400–8500

Comedy Theatre B2
XIII., Szent István körút 14 ≥ 329-2340
« 4, 6 ç 6, 26, 91 % HUF 300–2400

Merlin Theatre B3
V., Gerlóczy utca 4 10–23 July ‘Budafest’ – Summer Symphonic
≥ 317-9338 — Concerts at the Basilica
« 47, 49 1 2 3 Deák tér 29–31 July Formula–1 Hungarian Grand Prix
% HUF 600–1800 3–19 August 14th ‘Budafest’ Opera and Ballet Festival
10–17 August Sziget (Island) Festival
Trafó House of C4 18–21 August Crafts Festival
Contemporary end of August Budapest Parade
Arts 19–21 August Danube Embankment Festivities
IX., Liliom utca 41 end of August –
≥ 456-2051 early September Jewish Summer Cultural Festival
« 4, 6 3 Ferenc körút 4 September 19th Nike Budapest International
% HUF 500–2000 Half-marathon
4–14 September 14th Budapest International Wine and
Buda Vigadó B3 Sparkling Wine Festival
I., Corvin tér 8 ≥ 201-3766 8–11 September Wine exhibition and fair in Buda Castle
« 19, 41 2 Batthány tér 6 Sept.–2 Oct. Men’s and women’s Graeco-Roman
% Charges vary and Free-Style Wrestling World
Championship
TICKET ORDER: 2 October 20th Kaiser’s-Plus Budapest International
Marathon and Race Festival
Ticket Express 14–23 October Budapest Autumn Festival
V., Andrássy út 18 19–23 October Vienna–Budapest Supermarathon
ó Mon–Thu: 9.30 am–6.30 pm 26 Nov.–24 Dec.
V., Deák Ferenc utca 19 (Book and music store) Budapest Christmas Fair in
ó Mon–Sat: 10 am–7 pm Vörösmarty Square
II., Lövôház utca 2–6 (Mammut 1 Shopping Centre)
ó Mon–Thu: 10 am–6 pm, Sat: 10 am–1 pm
Central customer service: 312-0000
Phone ticketing: (06-30)30-30-999 30 December Seasonal concert by the 100-member
Internet booking: Gypsy Orchestra
www.tex.hu, 30–31 December New Year’s Eve – in the main squares
www.eventim.hu, of the capital
www.ticketexpress.hu, 31 December European New Year’s Eve – Gala and
www.musicmix.hu ball in the Opera House
Information: jegy@tex.hu Further information: www.budapestinfo.hu

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[2]

[3]

[1]

[4]

BEYOND Budapest
JUST OUTSIDE BUDAPEST A further 20 km north and the traveller comes to
Whatever point of the compass we choose to follow, Esztergom [1], former royal town. Each year this
there is always something of interest to discover more than 1000-year-old settlement (founded 973)
beyond the border of Budapest. For instance, travel – the first capital of the country, site for the baptism
north and the nearest places of note are Szentendre into the Christian Church of our first king, where
(see separate article), Visegrád and Esztergom. the pagan rebel Koppány was cruelly executed and
Visegrád [2] is a synthesis of the past, present and his quartered remains hung on the city walls, seat of
future. At one time the border of the Roman Empire, kings and archbishops for centuries – attracts
the limes, ran past the settlement; you can still see the around 1 million visitors. Today the castle is a
ruins of Roman watchtowers along the Danube. The first museum, and its reconstructed grand hall the
king of Hungary, St. Stephen, established a stewardship location for scientific conferences and conventions.
here and raised the archdeacon’s church, the The most decorative part of the castle is the
foundations of which still stand on Castle Hill. The view frescoed Royal Chapel. Hungary’s largest church,
from here is superb, encompassing the incomparable the Basilica, stands atop Castle Hill. Its red marble
Danube Bend. Not far away is the imposing citadel and chapel, built on the commission of Archbishop of
the huge keep which takes its name, Solomon’s Tower, Esztergom Tamás Bakócz, is ranked as one of the
from the myth that once King Solomon was held finest works of art to have survived in Hungary from
captive here. It is a fact however that during the Middle the Renaissance. The Cathedral Treasury with its
Ages the royal crown was kept under lock and key here. remarkable collection of ecclesiastical masterworks
Today the tower is a museum with a display of always attracts crowds. There is a statue of St.
archaeological treasures. The towering Royal Palace Stephen not far away, and the recently rebuilt Mária
originally raised in Gothic style and later, during the Valéria Bridge also contributes to the delightful view
reign of King Matthias, rebuilt in Renaissance style has a of the surroundings. The Christian Museum in the
fountain which ran not with water but with wine during Primate’s Palace has a valuable collection of
VIP meetings. This too is a museum, one of the main medieval Italian paintings, gobelins, faience and
features of which is a reconstruction (supported by the porcelains.
British) of the masterpiece red marble Hercules fountain. Let’s return to Budapest and then set off in a
Exhibitions have been set up in some of the halls of the south-westerly direction. We are in for a trip back in
restored palace; period replica furniture can be seen in time... several thousand years! Visitors to
the one-time prince’s suite. The palace gardens have Százhalombatta come upon Iron Age relics of the
been replanted with flora identified from excavated so-called Hallstadt culture. More than 100 tumuli
fountains. Each summer a knight’s tournament, strong preserve the remains of Iron Age dwellers who lived
man competition and medieval crafts fair are organized hereabouts. Huge pyres were set ablaze on the
in Visegrád. Danube embankment in honour of those recently

38 www.budapestinfo.hu
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[2] deceased, and their ashes were then hidden away in of spectacular sights and a fascinating artistic presence.
the mounds made to carefully planned designs. One Longobard cemeteries and Avar memorials are to be
such grave has survived in pristine condition, found here, and there is a particularly strong Serbian
allowing archaeologists to reconstruct accurately the culture all around, brought here by Serb communities
burial customs of yore; deep in the tumulus visitors fleeing a Turkish onslaught in the late 17th century.
can trace (aided by sound and light effects) the Most of the houses which once belonged to wealthy
course of a burial ceremony as performed 4000 years merchants are now museums, but the Greek Orthodox
ago. What’s more, it has been possible to reconstruct churches still function and visiting hours are fixed for
not only the burial ceremonies but the everyday life times between masses which dazzle the onlooker in all
of Iron Age society too: house reconstructions, their Baroque pomp, as does the Rococo iconostasis.
furnishings and clothing, and the very meals eaten in All the listed houses in the centre have found new
millennia past. The third Sunday in every month from functions: a restaurant famed throughout Hungary
May to September is given over to a Family Day operates from the attic of one, and in another the
when groups and individual visitors will find the visitor is served fine cakes and coffee specialities in a
archaeological park offering special family-oriented cosy café. There are gourmet delicacies for the body
programmes. and enchanting exhibitions for the mind. In fact the
Martonvásár [5] lies close to the M7 motorway galleries, workshops, exhibition centres and museums
30 km from Budapest. This tiny [5] just come one after the other. Seven
settlement became famed or eight galleries deal with the
throughout Europe thanks to the marketing of art. If anyone becomes
[4] hospitality and love of music of particularly interested in any one of
the resident Brunswick family. the artists, a studio visit can be
Indeed, Ludwig van Beethoven arranged. An exhibition of works by
was a regular guest and music Lajos Vajda, Dezsô Korniss, Endre
teacher at the attractive Brunswick Bálint and Piroska Szántó is set up in
mansion built originally in Baroque the Hunyadi Street old merchant’s
and later rebuilt in neo-Gothic house, No. 1 Vastagh György Street
style. Today Martonvásár remains preserves ceramics by Margit Kovács
a centre for the Beethoven cult: a whose works have enjoyed
museum set up in the mansion international acclaim for many
preserves items related to the decades, while the art of Jenô
great composer, while each Barcsay is displayed in Dumtsa Jenô
summer outdoor concerts are Street. Not far from here, an unusual
staged in the delightful grounds. museum shows just how far a skilled
Finally, if we leave the capital heading northeast, artisan can extend the boundaries of his trade. The
after 30 km we arrive in the town of Gödöllô, Marzipan Museum displays how far the plasticity and
renowned for its association with Queen Elizabeth, wife colouring of this marvellous and delicious sweetmeat
of Franz Joseph, emperor of the Austro-Hungarian can – in the right hands – be moulded into just about
Monarchy. The restored Baroque palace, originally the any shape one could imagine. These works of art stay
Grassalkovich Mansion, was the favourite residence of locked up in the display cases, but many more can be
the queen, familiarly known by the Hungarians as sampled at the confectionery next door.
Sissy. This truly imposing palace lovingly restored to its It would be easy to spend a whole day strolling
original glory has a fascinating exhibition and regularly about the town and along the Danube embankment,
hosts cultural events and festivals. taking lunch and perhaps an afternoon coffee and
cake, and yet there is still another important place to
SZENTENDRE, TOWN see. Szentendre is home to the first (and still the
OF ARTISTS AND SKANZEN [4] largest) skanzen or open-air museum in Hungary.
This neat town with a decidedly Mediterranean feel to This park displays the continual development of
it lies barely 20 km from Budapest (suburban trains vernacular architecture from all the regions of
departing from Batthyány Square every 20 minutes Hungary in the form of original buildings typical of
reach it in 30-40 minutes), and it has gained a solid their area carefully dismantled and rebuilt in their
reputation as a popular tourist excursion spot. new home, the Szentendre skanzen. The rooms
Szentendre has preserved its 18–19th century compact come fully furnished with period furniture, linens and
and unified layout. Its picturesque setting on the beautiful needlework characteristic of the region in
Danube, its architecture and historical monuments all question, the kitchens display fireplaces and pots and
contributed to the formation over the years of colonies pans, the pantries have original containers for foods,
of painters, sculptors and artists who lived and still live sacks and wickerwork baskets, while the stables are
today in Szentendre. Indeed, the very air seems to full of all the essential equipment for animal
stimulate the creative juices! The town warmly husbandry. Museum experts revive the everyday life
welcomes the visitor, indulging them with its multitude and holidays of the old peasant way of living.

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[2]

[1] [3]

MEDICINAL BATHS, caves


Budapest is a city of medicinal baths. Although baths Lukács Medicinal Baths and A-B2
from Roman times (2nd century) have been uncovered Swimming Pool 3 ●
in Budapest, the true bathing culture was initiated II., Frankel Leó u. 25–29 ≥ 326-1695
during the period of Turkish occupation in the 16th and ó Mon–Fri: 6 am–7 pm, Sat–Sun: 6 am–5 pm
17th centuries. Even today there are four Turkish baths In addition to the medicinal bath section of the
in the capital (Rudas, Rác, Király, Császár), each one a bathing complex built in the 19th century, the
masterpiece of Ottoman architecture. swimming pool is also very popular, attracting
Admission charges show the lowest and highest rates. writers and artists among its regular clients. The
There may be several variations between these two 1800-square-metre park with trees, many of which
extremes. Prices valid to the end of 2004; admission are centuries old, is an ideal place for relaxing.
charges are likely to increase in 2005. « 17 % HUF 1400

Gellért Spa Baths 1 ● B4 Rác Medicinal Baths 4 ● B3-4


XI., Kelenhegyi út 4–6 I., Hadnagy utca 8–10
≥ 466-6166 Under reconstruction. Estimated opening in 2005.
ó Mon–Sat: 6 am–7 pm,
Sat–Sun: 6 am–5 pm — Rudas Medicinal Baths and swimming pool 5 B4 ●
One of the most popular I., Döbrentei tér 9
baths for tourists coming Under reconstruction. Estimated opening in 2005.
to Budapest. The medicinal
spring here was already Széchenyi Spa Baths 6 ● C2
famed in the 13th century. The spa is decorated with XIV., Állatkerti út 11 ≥ 363-3210
a wealth of original Art Nouveau furnishings, artistic ó Men’s and women’s thermal baths, swimming
mosaics, stained glass windows and sculptures, pool: daily 6 am–7 pm (October–April: 6 am–5 pm)
although the interior of the hotel built alongside has One of the largest bathing complexes in Europe, the
lost many of these fittings over the years. premier medicinal bath of Pest. Its thermal springs
ç 7, 7/A, 86 « 18, 19, 41, 47, 49, 118 were discovered in 1879; they are the deepest and
% HUF 2400–2900 hottest (74–75° C) thermal wells in the capital. The
neo-Baroque baths were built in 1913, the swimming
Király Medicinal Baths 2 ● B2 pool in 1927. The open-air sections with their
II., Fô utca 82–84 ≥ 201-4392 pleasantly warm waters are equally popular in winter.
ó Women: Mon, Wed, Fri: 7 am–6 pm, Men: Tue, 1 Széchenyi fürdô ë 72 % HUF 1300–2200
Thur, Sat: 9 am–8 pm
It is believed that a start was made on building the Aquincum Corinthia Hotel 7 ● B1
bath by Pasha of Buda Arslan in 1565. It is one of Budapest, III., Árpád Fejedelem útja 94 ≥ 436-4130
the few remaining monuments from the Turkish ó all year round, weekdays: 7 am–10 pm
times, receiving the visitor in all the original Located in a pleasant environment by the Danube, this
magnificence of a period Ottoman palace of elegant spa hotel offers guests swimming and thermal
bathing. pools, steam bath, sauna, jacuzzi and Scottish shower.
2 Batthyány tér ç 60, 86 % HUF 1000 « 1 ç 106 % HUF 2000–4200

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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 41

Danubius Thermal Hotel Helia 8 ● B1-2 OTHER BATHS, SWIMMING POOLS


XIII., Kárpát utca 62–64 ≥ 889-5800 ó 7 am–10 pm
The Scandinavian-style 4-star spa hotel on the Pest Császár–Komjádi Swimming Pool 10 ● A2
side of the Danube embankment offers guests a fan- II., Árpád fejedelem útja 8 ≥ 326-1478 ó Mon–Sat:
tastic panorama of Margaret Island and the Buda 6 am–1.30 pm, Sat–Sun: 6 am–7 pm
Hills. The popular fitness centre has four pools, sauna, ç 6, 60, 86 % HUF 500–800
steam bath, workout room and sunbathing terrace.
ë 79 % HUF 3000–4800 Csillaghegy Strand-Swimming Pool 12 ● E1
III., Pusztakúti út 3 ≥ 250-1533 ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–6
Danubius Thermal Hotel Margitsziget, pm, Sat–Sun: 7 am–4.45 pm
Danubius Margitsziget 9 ● B1 « Csillaghegy % HUF 800–1000
XIII., Margaret Island ≥ 889-4700 ó 6.30 am–9.30 pm
The old and modern buildings of these two hotels Dagály Medicinal Baths, Swimming Pool,
positioned on picturesque Margaret Island, the most Strand Baths 13● B1
[3]
attractive park in Budapest, are the ideal places for XIII., Népfürdô utca 36 ≥ 452-4500 ó
those seeking rest and relaxation. Far from the noise May–September: 6 am–7 pm October–April:
of town, and yet within easy reach of the downtown, Mon–Fri: 6 am–7 pm, Sat, Sun: 6 am–5 pm
they offer guests every comfort and service (including « 1 – Árpád híd ç 133 % HUF 1200–1400
a swimming pool and four medicinal pools).
ç 26 % HUF 4800–5800 Hajós Alfréd Sport Swimming Pool 15 ● B2
XIII., Margaret Island ≥ 450-4200 ó open-air pool:
Pálvölgy Stalactite Cave 24 ● A1 6 am–1.30 pm, indoor pool: 6 am–3 pm
II., Szépvölgyi út 162 ≥ 325-9505 ó Tue–Sun: 10 ç 26 % HUF 2400–2900
am–4 pm —
A superb cave in the Buda Hills open to tourists. It has Nyéki Imre E1
interesting stalactite and stalagmite formations (some Swimming Pool 17 ●
resembling an elephant and crocodile). Its air is XI., Kondorosi út 14
recognized as having a medicinal effect. ≥ 208-4025,
ç 65 % HUF 350–450 208-4026
ó Mon–Fri:
Szemlôhegy Cave 25 ● A1 6 am–8 pm,
II., Pusztaszeri út 35 ≥ 325-6001 Sat–Sun:
ó 10 am–4 pm, Tuesday closed — 6 am–7 pm
The cave, formed as a result of natural tectonic ç 7A « 47 Albertfalva, Kitérô % HUF 370–660
movements, is the other cave in the Buda Hills accessible
to tourist groups. Its remarkable formations (peastone) Palatinus Strand Baths 18 ● B4
were created in areas where thermal water permeated XIII., Margaret Island ≥ 340-4505 ó May–Aug.: 8
the limestone. Its cool, moist air has a curative effect for am-–7 pm, 1–12 Sept: 10 am–6 pm —
those suffering from respiratory problems. ç 26 % HUF 1300–1500
ç 29 % HUF 400–600
Paskál Strand Baths 19 ● E1
Castle Cave 26 ● A3 XIV., Egressy u. 176/C–G ≥ 252-6944 ó May–
I., Országház utca 16 August: 8 am–7 pm, 1–15 Sept: 10 am–7 pm
This natural formation comprising a cave network ë 77, 82 % HUF 800–1000
under the Castle Hill plateau enjoys protected
status. It has a unique standing among the caves of Pünkösdfürdô Strand 21 ● E1
Hungary since it is the largest travertine cave system III., Királyok útja 272 ≥ 388-6665 ó May 15–August
in the country. Closed for renovation 31: 9 am–7 pm
è Castle bus departing from Moszkva tér « Pükösdfürdô % HUF 900–1100

Buda Castle Labyrinth 27 ● A3 Római Strand Baths 22 ● E1


I., Úri utca 9 ≥ 212-0207 ó 9.30 am–7.30 pm — III., Rozgonyi P. utca 2 ≥ 388-9740 ó May–Aug.: 8
Hidden to a depth of several storeys under the Buda am–7 pm 1–15 Sept: 10 am–6 pm
Castle district, a labyrinthine network of chambers was « Római fürdô ç 34 % HUF 1300–1500
eroded half a million years ago, and its separate parts
were linked up over past centuries. Visits will find sections Újpest Medicinal Baths and E1
with cave paintings. Programmes are staged day and Swimming Pool 23 ●
night, from trials of courage to labyrinth ring dancing. IV., Árpád út 114–120 ≥ 369-3194 ó Mon–Fri: 6
è Castle bus departing from Moszkva Square am–7 pm, Sat–Sun: 6 am–1 pm
% HUF 2400–2900 ç 20, 96, 120, 25A, 104 % HUF 800–900

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[3] [4]
[1]

[2]

LEISURE
PARKS, HILLS, Tabán B3
NATURE PROTECTED AREAS The hilly area between Gellért Hill and Castle Hill is
steeped in history. Today its extensive park and a
Margaret Island [2] [3] B1-2 few old buildings bear witness to the life this one-
The historical monuments on this slender island time centre enjoyed. Celts and Romans settled here,
running between Árpád Bridge and Margaret Bridge and its thermal springs prompted the Turks to
date back to the 11th century. The capital’s most establish baths here (the Rudas and Rác thermal
beautiful park is on the island, and visitors strolling baths of today). From the 17th century Serb, Greek
around come across a variety of interesting structures and Roma refugees lived in its small streets. The
(the UNESCO-protected Water Tower, musical well, arcaded terraces of Castle Garden (Várkert) standing
Open-air Stage, Church of St. Michael) and ruins at the foot of Tabán and looking out onto the
several centuries old (nunnery where Margaret, Danube were designed by Miklós Ybl, foremost
daughter of King Béla IV, lived, and the remains of Hungarian architect of the 19th century. Today
two churches belonging to religious orders). And open-air festivals and concerts are regularly staged
there is still more: a strand, swimming pool, two in Tabán.
hotels and a variety of restaurants and buffets. – ç 26 ç 5, 78, 112 « 18, 19, 41, 118

Gellért Hill B4 City Park C-D2


A popular excursion destination for Budapesters and The largest green belt expanse on the Pest side, a
tourists due to its attractive park and superb panoramas favoured place for family outings, weekend
from the viewing terraces. The sights on the hill recall entertainment and those looking for the tranquillity
individual periods in history: the statue of Bishop St. of nature. After draining and planting trees across
Gellért that of pagan times, the Citadel that of Habsburg this marshy area (centuries early a royal hunting
oppression after the 1848–49 War of Independence, domain), an English-style park was established here
and the Liberty Monument towering over the city the in the 19th century. Towards the end of the century
period after the Second World War. The Citadel, the magnificent buildings and monuments (Museum of
most important lookout point in the city, sits atop
Gellért Hill and offers an unrivalled panorama of World
Heritage Budapest including the Buda Castle district and
both sides of the Danube embankment.
The Cave Church (south side of the hill), opened in
1926 and built on the Lourdes pattern, was
reopened in 1989.
ç 7, 7A, 86 « 18, 19, 41, 47, 49, 118

42 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 43

Fine Arts, Palace of Arts, Millennium memorial, programmes projected on to the dome (diameter: 23
Vajdahunyad Castle) were erected for celebrations m) with pop or classical music accompaniment.
marking the thousandth anniversary of the Magyar « 1, 1/A ç 103 3 Népliget
Conquest. City Park offers entertainment of all kinds
and for all generations: Funfair, Zoo, Grand Circus, SPORT
museums, spa bath, boating lake and skating rink. Entertainment and health sports are becoming every
ç 4 1 Hôsök tere, Széchenyi fürdô ë 70, 72, 75, 78 more popular in Budapest. Dozens of joggers, young
and old, are to be seen in the capital’s parks (and
Buda Hills E1 primarily on Margaret Island) from morning to
(Széchenyi Hill, Sváb Hill, János Hill, Hármashatár Hill) evening. Besides the Hajós Alfréd National Sports
[4] A mecca for nature lovers and excursionists, the Swimming Pool, the most popular pool on Margaret
Buda Hills (400-500 m) lie to the northwest of the Island, there are more than 25 other strands,
city centre and offer visitors excellent air and swimming pools or medicinal baths in the capital. The
endless forests with well marked tourist trails. In city is networked by many cycle paths, and in winter
addition to walking and cycling, the most popular (between December and March) the City Park lake is
means of getting around for tourists include the transformed into Central Europe’s largest open-air
cogwheel railway (from Szilágyi Erzsébet Avenue to skating rink (in summer it functions as a boating lake).
Széchenyi Hill), the narrow-gauge railway which The Buda Hills are generally suitable for skiing and
(apart from the locomotive) is operated by children sledging between December and February.
(from Széchenyi Hill via János Hill to Hûvösvölgy), The following is a list of just a few of the near
and the chair-lift running up and down János Hill, countless fashionable sport offers around town.
which when the weather is fine offers a
breathtaking panorama of the city. BOWLING
2 Moszkva tér, and then Cogwheel railway or Mammut Bowling Club
Chair-lift II., Lövôház utca 2–6 ≥ 345-8300
ó Sun–Thur: 10 am–1 am, Mon, Fri–Sat: 10 am–3 am
Sas Hill nature protected area A4 % HUF 450–750
XI., Tájék utca 26 ≥ 319-6789 Strike Bowling Club
ó 15 March–15 June and 1 September–15 October: XI., Budafoki út 111–113 ≥ 206-2754
Sat–Sun: 10 am–4 pm ó Mon–Thur: 2 pm–1 am, Fri–Sat.: 2 pm–3 am
Visits with guide only! % HUF 450–750
This 266-m-high dolomite rocky block set in the heart Westend Bowling Club
of the Buda side is home to a variety of rare and unique VI., Váci út 1–3 (Westend City Center) ≥ 238-7040
flora and fauna, and represents an unparalleled, nature ó Sun–Thur: 10 am–1 am, Fri–Sat: 10 am–3 am
protected formation in the centre of this metropolis of % HUF 400–700
2 million. Visitors are permitted to enter in spring and
autumn, and with luck may glimpse the yellow and FITNESS CLUBS
lilac flowers of the protected iris, the Hungarian Astoria Fitness Studio
meadow saxifrage, the Buda hare’s tail grass, the St. V., Károly körút 4 ≥ 317-0452
Stephen wild pink and the common horsetail. Among ó Mon–Fri: 6.30 am–11 pm, Sat–Sun: 8.30 am–11 pm
the local fauna it is worth highlighting the Pál Kitaibel % HUF 900
Pannonia lizard, which despite its tiny feet moves in Hotel Stadion (Danubius Premier)
snake-like fashion, and the “bull spider” (the only place XIV., Ifjúság útja 1–3 ≥ 889-5282
in the world this arachnid can be found!) which is ó 6.30 am–11 pm % HUF 1900–2900
instantly recognizable with its four black spots on a red Moveland-Mammut 2 Shopping Center
abdomen. It is often to be seen basking in the warmth II., Lövôház utca 2–6 ≥ 345-8544/45/46
of the sun on bare rocks. ó Mon–Fri: 6.45 am–10.45 pm,
ç 8, 8A Sat–Sun: 8 am–7.45 pm % HUF 2000
Park Hotel Flamenco
Népliget D4 XI., Tas vezér utca 7 ≥ 889-5761ó Mon–Thur: 7 am–12
The largest park on the Pest side, founded in the pm, Sat–Sun: 9 am–9 pm % HUF 2400–4300
1860s. Located to the southeast of the city centre,
the 5-km-long, 112-hectare park filled with trees,
flowers and grass is a pleasant place to stroll. Statues
and memorials line the paths. The ‘Centenarium’
park-established to mark the 100th anniversary of the
unification of Pest and Buda-forms a part of Népliget.
The Planetarium, an establishment of national
significance, is also sited here. Visitors can learn more
about the wonders of astronomy, or enjoy laser
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 44

Római Fit-Forma Studio GOLF


III., Monostori út 31 ≥ 453-2901 ó Mon–Fri: Old Lake Golf Club
7 am–10 pm, Sat–Sun: 8 am–4 pm % HUF 1100 Tata (40 km west of Budapest)
≥/¥: (06-34)587-620 ó March–10 November
FOOTBALL 8 am–dusk % HUF 8000–13 000
Round Hall Academy Golf Club-Driving Range
XIV., Stefánia út 2 ≥ 251-1222 Budakalász, Lupa Szigeti út 4 ≥ (06-30)944-1185
ó daily: 6 am–10 pm ó daily: 9 am–9 pm % Charges vary

GO-CART RIDING
Budaring Go-Cart Petneházy Horse-Riding School
XI., Budaörsi út (at the Floracoop flower market) II., Feketefej utca 2 ≥ 397-5048
≥ (06-30)311-9856 ó Fri–Sun: 9 am–4 pm % Charges vary
ó 11 am–11 pm % HUF 1500–2000 Favorit Riding Club
Eurocenter Go-Cart XVI., Mókus utca 23 ≥ (06-30)966-9992
III., Bécsi út 154 ≥ (06-30)206-4206 ó Tue–Fri: 2–6 pm, Sat–Sun: 9 am–4.30 pm, closed
ó Mon–Fri: 2 pm–11 pm, Sat–Sun: 12 am–11 pm Mon. % Charges vary
% HUF 1500–1800
TENNIS
SKATEBOARD, ROLLER SKATING Mini Garros Tennis Club
Görzenál XIV., Csömöri út 21/A ≥ 363-6800
III., Árpád fejedelem útja 46 ≥ 250-4800 ó Daily, weekends too, from 7 am until dusk
ó March–November: daily 9 am–6 pm % HUF 2100–3200
Római Tennis Academy
III., Királyok útja 105 ≥ 240-8616
ó 9 am–10 pm % HUF 2200–3800
Szépvölgy Tennis Centre
III., Virág B. utca 39–41 ≥ 388-1591
ó 7 am–10 pm % HUF 4600–5300
Városmajor Tennis Academy
XII., Városmajor utca 63–69 ≥ 202-5337
ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–10 pm, Sat: 7 am–7 pm, Sun: 8
am–7 pm % HUF 2700–4400

CHILDREN’S PROGRAMMES
Children who want to play, get about and enjoy
themselves will find Budapest has plenty to offer.
SQUASH Budapest’s leisure opportunities – from the Funfair to
A & TSH puppet theatres – are broad and exciting, irrespective of
I., Pálya utca 9 ≥ 356-9530 ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–11 whether it is raining or sunny, winter or summer, inside
pm, Sat–Sun: 9 am–9 pm % HUF 2400–3500 or out. The following are just a few ideas from the great
Aktív Squash Club programmes available for kids:
XIV., Tábornok utca 7 ≥ 251-3322
ó daily: 7 am–11 pm % HUF 2900–3900 Funfair [4] C2
Aréna Fitness XIV., Állatkerti körút 14–16 ≥ 363-2660
XIII., Váci út 178 (Duna Plaza) ≥ 239-4356 ó Apr–Sept: 10 am–8 pm Oct–March: only Sat and
ó Mon–Fri: 6 am–11 pm, Sat–Sun: 8 am–10 pm Sun: 10 am–7 pm —
% HUF 2400–3200 1 Széchenyi fürdô ë 72 ç 4 % free, Sat–Sun: HUF 300
Arnold Gym
III., Szépvölgyi út 15 ≥ 250-4259 Municipal Zoo and Botanical Garden [1] C2
ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–11 pm Sat–Sun: 9 am–10 pm XIV., Állatkerti körút 6–12
% HUF 1900–2900 ≥ 363-3797
City Squash & Fitness ó Jan, Feb, Nov, Dec: 9 am–4
II., Marcibányi tér 13 ≥ 325-0082 ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–mid- pm, March, April, Sept, Oct: 9
night, Sat–Sun: 8 am–10 pm % HUF 2000–4000 am–5 pm, May–Aug:
Top Squash-Mammut Shopping Center Mon–Thur: 9 am–6 pm,
II., Lövôház utca 2–6 ≥ 345-8193 Fri–Sun: 9 am–7 pm —
ó Mon–Fri: 7 am–11 pm, Sat–Sun: 8 am–9 pm 1 Széchenyi fürdô ë 72 ç 4
% HUF 2300–4500 % HUF 900–1300

44 www.budapestinfo.hu
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 45

Budapest Panorama Balloon B2 Municipal Grand Circus C2


(Roof garden of the West End City Center) XIV., Állatkerti körút 12 ≥ 344-6008
XIII., Váci út 1–3 ≥ 238-7623 ó please make enquiries on the above number
ó Mon–Fri: 10 am–10 pm, ç 4 1 Széchenyi fürdô ë 72 % HUF 900–1900
Sat–Sun: 10 am–12 pm —
3 Nyugati tér « 4, 6 % HUF 2000–3300 Aquaréna Mogyoród aquapark F1
Mogyoród, Vízipark út 1 (next to Hungaroring
Buda Castle Labyrinth b3 racetrack)
I., Úri utca 9 ≥ 212-0207
(for details, see p. 41) —

Hungarian Railway History Park D1


XIV., Tatai út 95 ≥ 428-0180 —
ó 10 am–6 pm, closed Mon.
Exhibition of railway locomotives, steam
locomotives and rail carriages. Daily locomotive and
carriage display, velocipede line-inspection car,
chance to operate a model railway, regular ó 1 May–30 Sept: Mon–Sun: 9 am–7 pm
children’s programmes. Also: drive a steam 1.5-km over- and underground chute, 8 pools
locomotive (under supervision, of course!) covering a total 3500 square metres, 26 slides,
ç 30 % HUF 300–900 acrobat pool, slow river, cave, jacuzzi
% HUF 3400–13,000
Chair-lift E1
Zugliget–János Hill ≥ 394-3764 Tropicárium-Oceanarium, Campona E2
ó Apr–Sep: daily 9 am–5 pm Oct–March 10 am–4 XXII., Nagytétényi út 37–45 ≥ 424-3053
pm Closed every odd Mon. — ó daily: 10 am–8 pm —
ç 158 % HUF 200–400 Anyone interested in the world of water and
rainforests will want to see Hungary’s only fantastic
Buda Castle Funicular Railway B2 indoor “fauna paradise” covering an area of 3000
Operating between Clark Ádám Square square metres. Gaze in awe at the seven sharks each
and Buda Castle a metre-and-a-half-long as they glide around the
ó daily 7.30 am–10.30 giant aquarium. These are the kids’ favourites!
pm. N.B. No service on ç 3 (from Móricz Zsigmond Circus), 14, 114 (from
even Mon Kosztolányi Dezsô Square). % HUF 900–1500
ç 4, 16, 86
« 19, 41 Transport Museum D2
% HUF 500-600 XIV., Városligeti körút 11 (For details, see p. 15) —

Cogwheel Railway E1 Planetarium D4


II., Szilágyi Erzsébet fasor 47 ≥ 355-4167 X., Népliget ≥ 263-1811 ó daily except Mon:
Trains run from 5 am–11 pm 9 am–4 pm — 3 Népliget % HUF 940
« 56, 18, 118 % HUF 0–145 F
Stroll-bikes
Children’s Railway E1 XIII., Margaret Island, Palatínus strand ≥ 966-6453
Széchenyi Hill and Hûvösvölgy ó 10 am to dusk (weekends only between
≥ 395-5420 1 Nov–31 March) ç 26 % HUF 800–1200
ó daily between May–August —
the railway operates on Tue and Sun in September Brigóhintó family pedal ‘bikes’
ç 56 « 56 % HUF 80–150 Japanese Garden ≥ 329-2746
ó 8 am–dusk, holidays: 9 am–dusk —
Palace of Wonders B2 ç 26 % HUF 820–3480
XIII., Váci út 19 ≥ 350-6131
ó Mon–Fri: 9 am–5 pm, Sat, Sun: 9 am–6 pm — PUPPET THEATRES
This unique interactive playhouse proves to young Budapest Puppet Theatre
and old alike that the world is a fascinating place. VI., Andrássy út 69 ≥ 341-2166
Children are invited to watch “Palace of Wonders” ç 41 Vörösmarty utca % Charges vary
experiments, and to gain an appreciation of the
world around them through scientific games. Kolibri Theatre
3 Lehel tér, and then a 5 minute walk VI., Jókai tér 10 ≥ 312-0622
% HUF 650–700 « 4, 6 ç 4 1 Oktogon stop % Charges vary

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SHOPPING
[1] [2]

Just as in any metropolis anywhere in the world so shops marketing the very finest quality Hungarian reds
too in Budapest there are thousands of temptations and whites. Famous Szamos marzipan is available
to get out and shop, although it’s not a bad idea to in Párizsi Street, and the confectionery’s ice cream is
know beforehand what is especially worth taking outstanding too. And since the number of shops that
home as a souvenir and which are the best quality can be squeezed onto the street level is finite,
Hungarian products. enterprising Hungarians have moved underground:
Our shopping expedition starts in József nádor three shopping centres have been created out of old
Square where a visit to the Herend shop is like cellars. One shop in Fehérhajó Street sells healing
stepping into an exhibition of the finest applied arts. minerals, and in the middle of Váci Street others trade
Herend porcelain is, quite rightly, one of the industries in antique furniture, porcelain and kid’s clothing. In
Hungary is most proud of. Over the years Herend the meantime don’t forget to direct your eyes
hand-painted vases, plates and dinner services have upwards occasionally: most of the buildings in the
won several gold medals at world expos. One pattern heart of town were raised in the late 1800s, among
is named after Queen Victoria because the now- them there are several outstanding examples.
famous butterfly design was first made for her. In a The Csók Gallery on the corner of Pesti Barnabás
similarly fashion, a Persian motif is named after Sissy, Street displays and retails works by modern
empress of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and a Hungarian artists, but if you are interested in
remarkable bird pattern is linked to the Rothschilds. antiques, you’ll find them here too. Kígyó (Snake)
Just a block away, on entering Vörösmarty Square Street is gradually turning into a street of porcelain:
we are faced with a choice: do we drop in to two shops selling the finest Hungarian porcelain face
Gerbeaud, the most distinguished café in the each other across the street. The speciality of the
capital, with its delicious teas, coffees and cakes, or Zsolnay porcelain factory is its eosin glaze, a
head to the other side of the square and the Luxus technique rarely employed in Europe. This iridescent
department store selling global brand name glaze with its golds, greens and (more uncommonly)
clothing as well as Hungarian gifts and perfumes? blues covers Zsolnay statues, plates and ash trays,
Whichever you choose, you won’t be disappointed! while dining sets are characterized by an attractive
ivory hue to the porcelain. The Herend shop sells
ALONG VÁCI STREET single pieces, sets and statues patterned on classics
Váci Street linking Vörösmarty Square with Fôvám created by the old factory established 176 years ago.
Square represents the main artery of the inner city. Replacement pieces can also be ordered.
A stroll down “Váci utca” takes one past jewellers, At Elizabeth Bridge an underpass takes us on to
perfumeries, brand name clothes shops from Marks the continuation of Váci Street. Passing the
and Spencer to Cottonfield, a C&A store, boutiques Downtown Auction House (Belvárosi Aukciósház),
and bijouteries. it’s fascinating to scan the regularly changing
But leave time for the foreign language bookshop collection of shopwindow “treasures” small and
selling translated works by several Hungarian authors. large. Visit the Folkart Centrum at Váci Street 58
Then again, don’t forget to slide off down one or two for just the right gift to remind you of your stay in
of the side streets: you’ll discover boutiques and wine Hungary.

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CENTRAL MARKET HALL


Continuing up Váci Street, we finally reach the ever-
buzzing Budapest Central Market Hall [1] with its
incredible variety of quality foods. Encompassed within a
building more than 100 years old, the market with its
paprika garlands, strings of garlic, the fruits, vegetables,
and on the first floor the flower-sellers and snack bars
offering true tastes of Hungary create a kaleidoscope of
colours, sounds, aromas, sights. Typical Hungarian
merchandise, for instance the world famous Tokaj
Aszú, is to be found in the market. The remarkable
bouquet of the “Wine of Kings, King of Wines” is given
by the grapes being left on the vine to shrivel in the sun,
during which process they sweeten and wither. The
number of puttony (panniers) which go into a barrel
gives the Aszú’s puttony number, and the more puttony,
the sweeter (and more expensive) the wine is. It’s
important to note that it is a dessert wine, ideal served
with cakes and sweet dishes. Tokaj Szamorodni and
Furmint come in sweet and dry versions. Unicum is
one of the top bitters spirits in the world. Its absolutely
unique flavour derives from a secret blend of aromatic
herbs. Apricot and plum brandies faithfully preserve
the scent and flavour of the fruits they are distilled from.
Whether marketed tinned or in an earthenware pot,
Hungarian goose liver is excellent, and Herz and
Pick salamis are similarly “hungaricum” products!

SHOPPING MALLS
The plaza [2] opens up a different sort of entertainment
and shopping experience. Virtually everything can be
found in one place, the shops are open, enticing one to
wander around, try out the scents, feel the quality of
materials, try on clothes and so on. The most successful
malls tempt the buyer in with some special feature,
whether this be a waterfall Tropicarium, or Western-
style setup. One of the malls actually has a tethered
balloon on the roof, giving passengers an unforgettable
view of the city and surroundings. Plazas, generally
open throughout the weekend too, have become the
favoured haunt of the young. Over the past few years
malls have been springing up all over the capital, most
at major intersections and metro stations (Western
Railway Station, Váci Road, Könyves Kálmán Boulevard,
Bécsi Road, Margit Boulevard etc.).

Folkart Centrum
V., Váci utca 58 ≥ 318-5840 ó 10 am–7 pm
www.folkartcentrum.hu
Hungary’s largest folk handicrafts shop selling a
huge range of authentic hand-made items,
embroidery, hand-woven fabrics, costumes,
pottery, porcelain, wood carvings, flasks,
traditional painted Easter eggs and other gifts
from every ethnographical region in Hungary.

House of Hungarian Wines


I., Szentháromság tér ≥ 212-1031 ó midday–8 pm
700 different types of wine from 22 Hungarian
wine regions. Wine tasting of 55 fine wines.

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RESTAURANTS
[1] [2]

[3]

THE BUDAPEST GUIDE RECOMMENDS: Cyrano****


Cost of average two-course meal per person,
V., Kristóf tér 7–8 ≥ 266-3096 ó 11.30 am–midnight
including service but without drinks: Healthy eating: poultry, fish, plenty of vegetables,
* = less than HUF 2000, ** = HUF 2000-4000, *** = steaks and Hungarian dishes
HUF 4000-6000, **** = over HUF 6000 Fausto’s ****
VII., Dohány utca 5 ≥ 269-6806 ó midday–3 pm,
RESTAURANTS, CAFÉS 7–11 pm, closed Sunday and holidays • Italian cuisine
Admirál ** Fortuna***
V., Belgrád rakpart 30 ≥ 318-0723 ó midday–11 pm I., Hess András tér 4 ≥ 375-6857 ó daily midday–4
Hungarian cuisine • Sited on the Duna embankment pm, 7 pm–midnight
Alabárdos**** Hungarian and international specialities
I., Országház utca 2 ≥ 356-0851 ó midday–4 pm, Fuji Japanese Restaurant***
7–11 pm, closed Sunday • Hungarian cuisine II., corner of Zöldlomb Street and Zöldkert Street
Aranybárány** ≥ 325-7111 ó midday–11 pm • Sushi open kitchen
V., Harmincad utca 4 ≥ 267-0213 ó midday–midnight Fülemüle***
Hungarian and international dishes • Lamb dishes a speciality VIII., Kôfaragó utca 5 ≥ 266-7947 ó Monday–Friday:
Arany Kaviár **** midday–10 pm • Hungarian, European, Jewish cuisine
I., Ostrom utca 19 ≥ 201-6737 ó 6 pm–midnight Gambrinus***
Russian cuisine V., Váci utca 20 (Hotel Taverna) ≥ 485-3100
Aranyszarvas** ó 7 am–midnight • Royal Menus
I., Szarvas tér 1 ≥ 375-6451 ó midday–11 pm Gundel**** [1]
Game dishes a speciality XIV., Állatkerti körút 2 ≥ 468-4040 ó midday–4
Bagolyvár ** pm, 6.30 pm–midnight • Cuisine famed throughout
XIV., Állatkerti út 2 ≥ 468-3110 ó midday–11 pm Europe served in historical surroundings
Home-made cooking, Hungarian dishes Kaltenberg Bavarian Royal Brasserie and
Belcanto**** Restaurant**
VI., Dalszínház utca 8 ≥ 269-3101 ó midday–3 pm, IX., Kinizsi utca 30–36 ≥ 215-9792 ó midday–midnight
6 pm–2 am • Famous singers, singing waiters – Buffet Snacks, fish, Hungarian dishes, substantial Bavarian
breakfast and lunch cooking
Biedermeier *** Kárpátia****
VI., Mozsár utca 12 ≥ 331-8942 ó midday–3 pm, 6 V., Ferenciek tere 7–8 ≥ 317-3596 ó 11 am–11 pm
pm–midnight • Traditional international cuisine Traditional and modern gastronomy in a Renaissance milieu
Café Pierrot*** Kéményseprô (Chimneysweep) Restaurant**
I., Fortuna utca 14 ≥ 375-6971 ó 11 am–1 am VI., Dózsa György út 106 (Hotel Liget) ≥ 269-5316
Intimate atmosphere, piano music in the evening ó April–Oct: 11 am–11 pm, Nov–March: midday–3 pm,
Choice of international dishes 6–10 pm • Nearly 100 Hungarian and international specialities
Cascade *** Képíró***
XII., Szarvas Gábor út 8/D ≥ 275-1039 ó midday– V., Képíró utca 3 ≥ 266-0430 ó Mon–Fri: midday–3
midnight • Mediterranean and Hungarian cuisine pm, 6 pm–midnight, Sat: 6 pm–midnight, closed Sun
Centrál Café and Restaurant** Varied and gourmet French and international cuisine
V., Károlyi M. utca 9 ≥ 266-2110 ó 8 am–midnight Kisbuda Gyöngye***
Take early morning breakfast or late evening supper in III., Kenyeres utca 34 ≥ 368-6402
a refined milieu ó Monday–Saturday: midday–midnight
Columbus Pub** Comfortable, homely surroundings
V., in front of the Hotel InterContinental on the embankment Virtuoso cuisine full of ideas and with real home-made
≥ 266-9013 ó midday–1 am • International cuisine flavours

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Kispipa*** Vadrózsa****
VII., Akácfa utca 38 ≥ 342-2587 ó Monday–Saturday: II., Pentelei Molnár utca 15 ≥ 326-5817
midday–1 pm • Hungarian and international dishes ó midday–3 pm, 7 pm–midnight
Kogart Restaurant & Café*** Small Baroque villa offering a romantic dinner setting
VI., Andrássy út 112. ≥ 354-3830 ó 10 am–1 am Remete Rstaurant (Hotel Remete)
Elegant milieu, high-standard service. International III., Remetehegyi út 91. ≥ 250-3437 ¥ 368-4248
and dietary dishes, excellent Hungarian wine cellar Private functions, goulash party, barbeque
Mágnáskert ***
II., Csatárka út 58 ≥ 325-9967 ó midday–midnight CONFECTIONERIES
International cuisine Daubner Confectionery
Matthias Cellar**** II., Szépvölgyi út 50 ≥ 335-2253 ó 9 am–7 pm
V., Március 15. tér 7 ≥ 318-1693 ó 11 am–1 am Gerbeaud Confectionery [3]
Hungarian cuisine V., Vörösmarty tér 7 ≥ 429-9000 ó 9 am–9 pm
Múzeum Café and Restaurant*** Hauer Confectionery
VIII., Múzeum körút 12 ≥ 267-0375 ó Mon–Sat: midday– VIII. Rákóczi út 47–49 ≥ 323-1476 ó 8 am–11 pm
midnight • Elegant milieu, Hungarian and international flavours Lukács Confectionery
Náncsi Néni Vendéglôje** VI., Andrássy út 70 ≥ 302-8747 ó weekdays: 9
II., Ördögárok utca 80 ≥ 397-2742 ó midday–11 pm am–8 pm, Saturday, Sunday: 10 am–8 pm
Family-style restaurant with a large garden Mûvész Café
Lion Well Restaurant – Gerbeaud House VI., Andrássy út 29 ≥ 352-1337 ó 9 am–midnight
V., Vörösmarty tér 7 ≥ 429-9023 ó midday–3 pm, Ruszwurm
6–11 pm • Classically elegant, international cuisine I., Szentháromság tér 7 ≥ 375-5284 ó Monday–
Pest-Buda*** Friday: 8 am–7 pm, Saturday–Sunday: 8 am–8 pm
I., Fortuna utca 3 ≥ 212-5880 ó midday–11 pm Taverna-Zsolnay Café
Hungarian and international cuisine V., Váci utca 20 ≥ 485-3100 ó Mon–Fri: 9 am–10
Pilvax** pm, Sat–Sun: 10 am–10 pm
V., Pilvax köz 1–3 ≥ 266-7660 ó midday–midnight Zsolnay Café
Delicious Hungarian dishes, historical wines VI., Teréz körút 43 (Radisson SAS Béke Hotel)
Premier Restaurant & Terrace** ≥ 889-3900 ó 10 am–9.30 pm
VI., Andrássy út 101 ≥ 342-1768 ó midday–11 pm
International cuisine
Régi Sípos Halászkert** [2]
III., Lajos utca 46 ≥ 368-6480 ó midday–midnight
Family-style inn, Hungarian fish dishes
Remiz***
II., Budakeszi út 8 ≥ 200-3843 ó 9 am–1 am
Close to the tram depot, family-style catering. Dishes cooked on lava
Rivalda***
I., Színház utca 5–9 ≥ 489-0236 ó 11.30 am–11.30 pm
Modern European, international cuisine
Robinson***
XIV., City Park Lake ≥ 422-0222 ó midday–4 pm,
6 pm–midnight • International, Mediterranean cuisine
Rosenstein***
VIII., Mosonyi utca 3 ≥ 313-3492 ó Mon–Sat midday–
11 pm • Home-made cooking, traditional Jewish dishes
Sörházpince – Gerbeaud House**
V., Vörösmarty tér 7 ≥ 429-9022 ó midday–11 pm
Rustic furnishings • Snacks, grilled specialities
Spoon Café & Lounge***
V., in front of the Hotel InterContinental on the
embankment ≥ 411-0933 ó midday–midnight
A spoonful of pleasure on the elegant “ship restaurant”
Százéves (100-Year-Old)***
V., Pesti Barnabás utca 2 ≥ 318-3608 ó midday– midnight
• The oldest continually operating restaurant in town •
Traditional Hungarian cuisine to the very highest standards
Új Sipos Restaurant**
III., Fô tér 6 ≥ 388-8745 ó midday–11 pm
Hungarian, international flavours

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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 50

MUSIC AND DANCING VI., Nagymezô utca 17 ≥ 373-0577


Alcatraz** ó daily from 9 am–4 am
VII., Nyár utca 1 ≥ 478-6010 New Orleans**
ó Sun–Wed: 4 pm–2 am, Thur–Sat: 4 pm–4 am VI., Lovag utca 5 ≥ 268-0802 ó Tue, Thur–Sat:
Cotton Club*** 3–12 pm
VI., Jókai utca 26 ≥ 354-0886 ó midday–1 am Old Man’s***
Fat Mo’s** VII., Akácfa utca 13 ≥ 322-7645 ó 3 pm–4 am
V., Nyári Pál utca 11 ≥ 267-3199
ó Mon–Tue: midday–2 am, Wednesday: midday–3 am, CASINO
Thur–Fri: midday–4 am, Sat: 6 pm–4 am, Sun: 6 pm–2 am Las Vegas Casino
Janis’ Pub** V., Roosevelt tér 2 ≥ 317-6022 ó nonstop
V., Királyi Pál utca 8 ≥ 266-2619 ó Mon–Thur: 4 E-mail: info@lasvegascasino.hu
pm–2 am, Fri–Sat: 4 pm–3 am, Sun: 6 pm–2 am Website: www.lasvegascasino.hu
Jazz Garden** Tropicana Casino
V., Veres Pálné utca 44/A ≥ 266-7364 V., Vigadó utca 2 ≥ 266-3062 ó 11 am–6 am
ó Mon–Fri: midday–1 am, Sat–Sun: 1 pm–1 am E mail: info@tropicanacasino.hu
Moulin Rouge*** Revue – Cabaret – Restaurant – Cafe Website: www.tropicanacasino.hu

RESTAURANTS IN RÁDAY STREET AND LISZT FERENC SQUARE (please see the two maps)
For those looking for a quick lunch or a brief coffee ●
4 Buena Vista
and chat in between excursions or sightseeing, Liszt Ferenc tér 4–5
here are two recently redeveloped and “cool” ó Mon–Fri: 8 am–1 am, Sat–Sun:10 am–1 am
locations which come fully ● 5 Pesti Est Café
recommended: one is Liszt Ferenc Liszt Ferenc tér 5 ≥ 344-4381 ó 11 am–2 am
Square off Andrássy Avenue not ● 6 Birdland
far from Oktogon, the other Liszt Ferenc tér 7 ≥ 413-7983
is Ráday Street which ó 11 am–midnight
starts from Kálvin Square. ● 7 Café Miro Grande
Both places are packed with Liszt Ferenc tér 9 ≥ 321-8666
cosy restaurants, bars, cafés and a ó 9 am–1 am
youthful clientele. From a single star ● 8 Café Vian
to 4-star, you’ll find every kind of Liszt Ferenc tér 9 ≥ 268-
restaurant here serving everything from 1154 ó 9 am–midnight
traditional Hungarian to Chinese and even ● 9 Passion
Argentinean cuisine. Liszt Ferenc tér 10 ≥ 268-0199
ó 11 am–midnight
LISZT FERENC SQUARE: ● 10 Mediterrán Café
●1 Menza Liszt F. tér 10 ≥ 344-4615 ó 11.30 am–midnight
Liszt Ferenc tér 2 ≥ 413-1482 ó 10 am–midnight ●11 Le Roy Café
●2 Pompeí Liszt Ferenc tér 10 ≥ 411-0915 ó midday–midnight
Liszt Ferenc tér 3 ≥ 351-8738 ó 12 am–1 am ●
12 Karma
●3 Incognito Liszt Ferenc tér 11 ≥ 413-6764 ó 9 am–2 am
Liszt Ferenc tér 3 ≥ 342-1471 ●
13 Vörös Oroszlán Teaház
ó Mon–Thur: midday–midnight, Fri–Sun: 2 pm–2 am Jókai tér 8 ≥ 269-0579 ó 11 am–11 pm

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Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 51

RÁDAY STREET: ●
19 Jaffa Café
●1 Memoár Café Ráday utca 39 ó Mon–Fri:10 am–1 am, Sat: 1 pm–2
Ráday utca 1–3 ≥ 218-8698 ó 10 am–11 pm am, Sun: 4 pm–midnight
●2 Costes Restobár ●
20 Calvin
Ráday utca 4 ≥ 219-0696 ó midday–midnight Kálvin tér 8 ≥ 215-1215 ó 10 am–midnight
●3 Vörös Oroszlán Teaház ●
21 Pata Negra
Ráday utca 9 ≥ 215-2101 ó 11 am–11 pm Kálvin tér 8 ≥ 215-5616 ó 10 am–midnight
●4 Soul Café & Restaurant ●
22 Café Intenzo
Ráday utca 11–13 ≥ 217-6986 ó midday–1 am Kálvin tér 9 ≥ 219-5243 ó 10 am–midnight
●5 Ráday Drive 911
Ráday utca 11–13 ≥ 219-5452
ó midday–midnight
●6 Red Café
Ráday utca 14 ≥ 216-5628 ó midday–midnight
●7 Vörös Postakocsi
Ráday utca 15 ≥ 217-6756
ó 11.30 am–midnight
●8 Fotocella Gallery & Café
Ráday utca 17 ≥ 215-3248 ó 10 am–midnight
●9 Chinese Restaurant
Ráday utca 18 ≥ 218-9546 ó 10 am––10 pm

10 Prince of Persia
Ráday utca 21 ≥ 216-0566 ó 11 am–midnight

11 Shiraz Persian Restaurant
Mátyás utca 22 ≥ 218-0881 ó midday–midnight

12 Paris, Texas
Ráday utca 22 ≥ 218-0570 ó 10 am–3 am

13 Pink-Cadillac
Ráday utca 22 ≥ 216-1412 ó 11 am–1 am

14 Time Café
Ráday utca 23 ≥ 476-0433ó 11 am–1 am

15 Togana
Ráday utca 29 ≥ 217-6625 ó 11 am–midnight

16 Coramia
Ráday utca 31 ≥ 219-5233 ó 11 am–midnight

17 Star Café/Restaurant/Internet
Ráday utca 34 ≥ 215-2738 ó 10 am–midnight

18 Castro Bistro
Ráday utca 35 ≥ 215-0184 ó 9 am–midnight
Budapest Guide – angol 12/9/04 10:18 Page 52

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