It's a good idea to inspect and repair
your roof in autumn, before the hard
weather hits. Then examine the roof
again in spring to assess whatever
damage may have occurred during the
winter. If you discover problems, make
the necessary repairs, following the in\ue000
structions on pages 31-38.
Inspecting from inside. Begin an in\ue000
spection in the attic, using a strong
flashlight, a thin screwdriver, a knife,
and a piece of chalk to examine the
ridge beam, rafters, and sheathing.
Look for water stains, dark-colored
areas of wet wood, moisture, and soft
spots that may indicate dry rot. Mark
the wet spots with chalk so you can find
them easily later on.
If it's necessary to remove fiber\ue000
glass insulation batts to examine the
sheathing, be sure to wear loose cloth\ue000
ing, gloves, goggles, and a respirator
for protection.
Next, turn off any lights. If you see
any holes above you, drive nails or
poke wire through them so they'll be
visible from the roof's surface. (In a
wood shingle roof, small shafts of light
coming in at an angle indicate cracks
that may swell shut when the shingles
are wet.)
Inspecting from outside. When you
examine the roof from outdoors, evalu\ue000
ate the condition of the roof structure,
surface material, flashings, eaves, and
gutters.
To check the roof structure, stand
back from the house and look at the
lines of the ridge and rafters. The ridge
line should be perfectly horizontal, and
the line of the rafters, which you can
assess by looking along the plane of
each roof section, should be straight. If
either sags, call in a professional
contractor\u2014you may have a structural
problem.
Next, inspect the roof's surface.
Before climbing up on your roof, be
sure to read the safety tips on page 30.
If you're at all nervous about going up
on the roof, make the inspection from a
ladder, using a pair of binoculars. Don't
walk on the roof any more than is abso\ue000
lutely necessary; you can easily cause
more damage.
Inspect the flashings for rust spots
and broken seals along the edges. If
you have metal gutters and down\ue000
spouts, look for rust spots and holes.
Then examine the roof surface for
signs of wear, loose or broken nails, or
curled, broken, or missing shingles.
Use a knife and screwdriver to test
the boards along the eaves and rakes.
Scrape out any damage caused by dry
rot, treat with a wood preservative, and
fill the holes with wood putty If the dam\ue000
age is extensive, replace the boards and
finish them to match the existing areas.
Roof leaks usually appear during
storms, when you can't make per\ue000
manent repairs. But you can take some
steps to temporarily divert or halt the
flow of water, as shown below.
Generally leaks begin at a roof's
most vulnerable spots\u2014at flashings,
where shingles are damaged or miss\ue000
ing, in valleys, or at eaves. Often, the
water shows up far from its point of ori\ue000
gin after working its way through layers
of roofing materials and down rafters to
collect in a puddle on the attic or bed\ue000
room floor.
During a storm, trace the course of
water from where it's dripping through
the ceiling to where it's coming through
the roof. Drive a nail or poke wire
through the hole so you can find the
hole later when you get up on the roof.
Once the roof is dry enough,
check it thoroughly looking for weak
spots that indicate a source for the leak.
Keep in mind that the point where a nail
or wire is poking through may be below
the actual source. Make permanent re\ue000
pairs as described on pages 31-33.
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