The American Dialect Society

Culinary Americanisms Author(s): David Shulman Source: American Speech, Vol. 34, No. 1 (Feb., 1959), pp. 26-32 Published by: Duke University Press Stable URL: http://www.jstor.org/stable/454155 . Accessed: 27/08/2011 17:17
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CULINARYAMERICANISMS
DAVID SHULMAN New York City
F THE MANY WORDS that I have extracted from various sources, I have selected a special groupwhich I designate as culinary Americanismsand which denote foods or drinks.Eitherthe quotations cited for each one antedate the DAE (Dictionaryof AmericanEnglish), the DA (Dictionaryof Americanisms), the NED (New English Dictionary), the NED Sup. (New English Dictionary Supplement),or else the words do not appear in any of these authorities. There may have been valid reasons for omitting some of these words from the lexicons I have consulted. If every name of a new dish or potation were to be recorded, the list might be a formidableone. There is no limitation to the coining. of names for new concoctions, and the number of culinary concoctions or recipes can be limitless. A slight change in the preparationof some well-known sandwich, for example, may evoke various names, such as 'hero sandwich,' 'French dip,' and so on. Every cook or luncheonette owner may change or add names to his menus to suit his own taste or fancy. On one occasion, I found a restaurantfeaturing an 'Eddie Cantor Special.' It consisted of a roll with cream cheese and smoked salmon, which I had always known as bagel and lox. Each chef may take the liberty to name a recipe after any well-known person, place, or ingredient. It creates, no doubt, a difficult task for the editors of an unabridgeddictionary to decide which of these neologisms to include or omit. A determining factor, of course, is how widely accepted they tend to become in literature and speech. I have not attempted to present any origins or explanations for these culinary Americanisms.Because of space restrictions, I prefer to reserve such informationfor a separatearticle. But, it is my belief that the quotations that follow will enable lexicographersto arrive at more accurate etymologies and russe. If the theory holds true that it definitions. Take, for example, charlotte was named after a person, such as Queen Charlotte, the wife of George III, then quotations earlierthan her time should puncture such a theory. Likewise, ' in the term chicken la king, newspaperclippings have attributedthe dish to a certain Mr. King, of Chicago. Perhaps, Dr. Mathews, of the Chicago University Press and editor of the Dictionary of Americanisms,can shed more light on the matter. However, such quotations as I have provided should facilitate the research. It is not to be taken for grantedthat all the expressions listed are Americanisms, despite the title I have selected to head this article. That is a matter of further determination. I have merely tried to confine myself to American

CULINARYAMERICANISMS

27

listedas Americanisms in the works I have literarysourcesor wordsalready consulted. effortsby myselfandother indefatigable Further researchers amongcookin and other books, menus,banquet likely reports newspapers, places, will add and this effort. ratherthan to, on, However, doubtlessly improve present an endless of this I believe out now it is to kind, drag project fitting offerthe followingresults:
" brothwith beatencreamon top ... then lobster la Newberg (I quote from the menu).
ANGWITZER.

LA NEWBURG

(DA, 1905).

1903 Everybody's Magazine. 9: 44/i

We had clam

with some sweet meal, or angwitzer; (a compositionof parched Every warrioris furnished maizeand maplesugar). APOQUINIMINC CAKE. 1836 Mary Randolph, The Virginia Housewife . . . BaltiCakes (caption). more. p. 139 Apoquiniminc besidestheir wheatenrolls, they usuallyhave, in their seasons, Boston.p. 71 At breakfast, or hominy,with a relishof honey or herring. apple-bread, ;d ed. p. 195 Apple Fool (caption).
APPLE-LEATHER APPLE FOOL. 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery... New York. (DA, I877). 1866 Hours at Home. 3: 507/2 Then, think of appleAPPLE-BREAD (DAE, I865). i824 Henry C. Knight, Lettersfrom the South d West.

I8o6 Priscilla Wakefield, Excursions in North America. London. p. 244

andapple-jack. butter,apple-leather,

... New York3d ed. p. 219 Apple Marmalade (caption). Cookery 3d ed. p. 17 x Apple Puffs (caption). for tea or dessert?
BEETROOT

APPLE MARMALADE (DAE, 1832). 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New System of Domestic APPLE PUFF. 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery... New York.

APPLE TAPIOCA. 1879 GoldenHours. i 1: 143/1 Do you ever make any 'apple tapioca'

Atolle.Flour of IndianWheat, andwater mixedtogether,to put into Chocolate.

PUDDING.
1842 Brother Jonathan, Supplement. Jan. I. xx/2

ATOLE (DAE, i844). 1672 William Hughes, The American Physitian. London. p. I56 . . . for

exertionsmade him as red in the soul's before the fun was half over his cachichenatory indexas a beetrootpudding.
...

BostonPudding(caption). (captionfor recipe).

BLACK CAP (NED, 1822). 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery New York. 3d ed. p. zo3 Black Caps (caption). Boston. 4th ed. p. 30 BOSTON PUDDING. 1832 Eliza Leslie, Seventy-five Receipts. BROWN BETTY (DA, I864). 1861 American Agriculturist.
20:

373/1

Brown Betty

p. 296 Sour Cream. Smooth, mild, artificiallysoured cream, called butter cream in the Midwest.
CAT-FISH CHOWDER.

BUTTER CREAM. 195z Marian Tracy, Coast to Coast Cookery.Bloomington, Indiana.

347 'Cat-fish chowder' is a dish generally recognized and appreciatedthroughoutthe States. Southern
CHARLOTTE

I866 Captain Flack, A Hunter's Experiences . . . London. p.

... New York. 3d ed. p. i62 A Charlotte(caption). CHARLOTTE RUSSE (DAE, 1856). 1843 William E. Burton,The Yankee amongthe Mermaids. p. 80. Whilst meditatingon the differencebetween his beloved Philadelphia. and his new delight,a CharlotteRusse, he receiveda dish in ancienttimes, the salacaccaby, slap on the shoulder... thumping York.p.
CHICKEN FRITTERS. 1829 W. A. Henderson, Modern Domestic Cookery ...
211

(NED, I855). 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery

New

ChickenFritters(caption).

z8

AMERICANSPEECH

New York. p. 142 Chaw mainis good, too. That's chicken and gingerand mushrooms and bamboosproutsand other stuff ... CLAM CHOWDER (DA, 1836). i8zz (W. Kitchiner) The Cook'sOracle.Boston. p. 365 Clam Chowder(caption).
CLUB SANDWICH

CHOW MEIN (DA, 1927). 1903 Roy L. McCardell, Conversationsof a Chorus Girl.

Girl. New York.p. 69 'All we need is a club sandwichand a bottle of beer, isn't it?' 19r2 New York.p. s;3 A well-madeclub sandwich andPastimes. of Parties Mary Dawson, Book formsan appetizingrefreshment... COFFEE CAKE (DA, i885). 1879 GoldenHours. i : 326/2 Cut up the bread-rye bread,and Germancoffee-cake. bread,wheat bread,Graham CORNED BEEFAND CABBAGE.1875 Isaac Mast, The Gun, Rod and Saddle.Philadelphia.p. 14 Then 'cornedbeef andcabbage.' been sold all over the countryfor making'cream-soda.' CREOLE MUSTARD. 1952 MarianTracy, Coastto CoastCookery. Bloomington,Ind. p. 294 Creole Mustard.A preparedmustard,mild in flavor but more distinctivein taste commercial mustards. thanthe run-of-the-mill CUMBERLAND PUDDING. 1817 M. E. Rundell,A New Systemof Domestic Cookery ... New York. 3d ed. p. 154 Cumberland Pudding(caption). London.p. 38 Dandy DANDY FUNK. 1883 William ClarkRussell, Sailors' Language. funk-A mess made of powderedbiscuit, molasses,and slush. 19z8 Charles G. Pierre, Treatise A Systematic of Sea Terms.Valley Cottage, N.Y. p. 57 Dandy Funk-pudding of crushedhardtack, molassesand slush. and for what the Germanscall delicatessen ... for wine and spiritsshipped, Boston. DEVILLED HAM (DAE, 1897). 1873John Lester, The Atlanticto thePacific. 2 3 . . . with a devilledham,a devilledchicken, a devilled turkey and all the fixings . .. p. DEVILLEDTURKEY (DAE, devilled,1884). 1830 Mary R. Mitford,Stories of AmericanLife. London.2: 262 There were tea, coffee, beef-steaks,oysters, eggs, ham and eggs, with a devilledham, a devilledchicken,a devilledturkey and all the fixings ... ..DUCK STEW. London. p. 3tr 'Can you 1887 FrancisFrancis,Saddleand Moccasin. make a duck stew, Colonel?'I askedlaughingly... Treatise DUMB FUNK. i928 CharlesG. Pierre,A Systematic of Sea Terms.Valley Cottage, N.Y. p. 56 DumbFunk-beef andpotatostew.
DUNDERFUNK sausages, devilled turkeys ... 1873 John Lester, The Atlantic to the Pacific. Boston. p.
23

(DA, 1925). 1903 Roy L. McCardell, Conversationsof a Chorus

CORN ROLL. 1836 AmericanRailroadJournal. 5: z71/3 Corn Rolls (recipe). CREAM SODA (DA, 1889). 1854 American Agriculturist. Dec. zo. 233/3 A recipe has

DELICATESSEN (DA, 1893). I877 Scribner'sMonthly. May. 46/1 ... with an addition

We eat our fill of cold salt junk ... If mushruns low or dundyfunk, 2 /2 Dutch Cake (caption). DUTCH CAKE. 1844TheKitchen Philadelphia. Companion. ... New DUTCH PUDDING. i8 7 M. E. Rundell,A New System Cookery of Domestic York.3d ed. p. 15r DutchPudding,or Souster (caption). in America.London. FLOATING ISLAND NUTS. 1875 Th&i~seYelverton,Teresina the waiter in the most ... a the small for sounds When the 268 order meal, people gong I: mannerto supplythemwith pumpkin floating pie, ice-cream,pickledcucumbers, imperious islandnuts ... GEFUELLTE FISH. 1916 Jack Lait, Beef, Iron and Wine. New York. p. 7 I'd dare Billingsor anybodyelse to findany high spots in that crowd of tired hoipolloifightingfor fish ... a spot to standto get theircornedbeef andcabbage,or gefuellte GermanToast (caption Almanac. GERMAN TOAST (cf. Frenchtoast). 1879 Courant for recipe). in the Wildsof the UnitedStates GOPHER-STEAK. 1856 CharlesLanman,Adventures
. Philadelphia.
2:

(DA, 1892). 1849 Around the Horn in '49. San Francisco, 1928. p. 78

137 ...

a gophar-steak,than which nothing but India-rubber can be

more tough and elastic.

CULINARYAMERICANISMS
GRAHAM BISCUIT (DA, 1873). 1859 American Agriculturist. 18:
150/2

29 (caption

for recipe). BernardB. Smyth, Plants and Flowersof Kansas.Topeka. p. 39 GRAPE JELLY. 900oo and grapejelly need none of it. Crabapple IkeMcCandless and Other Stories. Cincinnati(copyGREASECAKE. 1853G. C. Furber, so as to half cook a thin solutionof flourand water into 'greasecakes.' HAZELNUT KISSES. i85 t Farmer's Almanac and Housekeeper's ReceiptBook.Philadelphia. p. 25/2 Hazelnut Kisses (recipe). Club CookBook.Bridgton,Maine. p. 27 (caption for a HERMITS. 90o2The Calendar right 85sz). p. 3o0/ . . . laying the meat, already fried, out in a little pile on the ground,

kindof cake.) HOREHOUND CANDY (DAE, I840). 1839 Jacob Abbott, Calebin Town. Boston.
.

ouncesof hoarhound candy ... CAKE. i886 Outing.7: 5ss5/ A featureof our evening repastwas HUCKLEBERRY cakes andwine jelly. huckleberry ... New INDIAN PICKLE. 18I7 M. E. Rundell,A New Systemof Domestic Cookery York.3d ed. p. i86 IndianPickle (caption). Jacks (caption).
INDIAN SLAP JACK. 1844 The Kitchen Directory . . .New
.

p. [23

.. and then you go from there into the apothecary's, and ask them to give you two

York. p. 59 Indian Slap

Within... New York. JERSEYWONDERS (Kind of cake). 1857 R. K. Philp,Inquire p. 4z/1 Jersey Wonders.The oddity of these 'wonders'consists solely in the mannerof cooking and the shapeconsequent. JOE BUNKER (DA, only as a nicknamefor an American). 1877 GoldenHours. 9: before this 328/2 . . . lemonade,sardines,'Joe Bunkers'--oh, how these things disappear insatiablelittle crowd.
LADY BALTIMORE CAKE (DA, 1913).

London. 1: 103 . . . an he'll gib you noting but hoe cake an sassafras an jangolango tea ...

Almanac. JAMES CAKE. I879 Courant (Captionfor recipe.) JANGOLANGO TEA. (i844) Uncle Sam (pseudonym), Uncle Sam's Peculiarities.

IRISH STEW. 1834 The Housewife's Guide.

. New York. p. 23 Irish Stew (caption).

custards ...

Pastimes. New York. p. z233For this purposea chocolate layer cake or a Lady Baltimore cake leads. Hours. 2z:44/1 All the class waited for the lemon LEMON CUSTARD. I88o Golden LEMON DROP (NED Sup., 1870). 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New Systemof Domestic Cookery ... New York. 3d ed. p. 224 Lemon Drops (caption). LILLIAN RUSSELL. 1908 John Murrayand Mills Miller. The Round-Up.New York. p. z7 One night in Chicago,one meal, a dinnerendingwith a 'LillianRussell' (peachesor applepie coveredwith ice-cream)as dessert ... LOBSTERA LA NEWBURG. 1898 National Magazine.8: 203/I Bates woke up and wanted to call for lobstera la Newburg . . . and every other delicacy he could think of. LOX. 1916Jack Lait, Beef,Ironand Wine.New York.p. 7 I'd dare Billingsor anybody else to findany high spotsin that crowd of tired hoipolloifightingfor a spot to standto get their cornedbeef and cabbage,or gefuellte fish or lachs... 8: 148 We lost the 'mackerelsteak' MACKERELSTEAK. 1859Student andSchoolmate. had madeup theirmouths. for which some of the excursionists chickens fricasseedwith corn are elegant; and corn fritters, or 'mock oysters,' as Bertie
calls them ... MOCK OYSTERS. 1878 Golden Hours. 1o: 510o/2 There's corn soup, is real nice; and

19g2

Mary Dawson, Book of Parties and

in the Wildsof the UnitedStates MOOSESTEAK. i856 CharlesLanman,Adventures ... 2: 496 'Moose steak for dinnertomorrow,'said Old Joe in great glee. Philadelphia.
MOTTO-WAFER (DAE, motto-candy, 1876). 1904 Everybody's Magazine. 11: 184/I

Last come the candiesamidstwhich are fascinating motto-wafers...

30

AMERICANSPEECH

MRS. LINCOLN'S PIE. 1863 Mark Seaton, Autographletter. Beaufort,S.C. Aug. 17 'I am getting tired of hardtack or Mrs. Linconspies as we call them . . .' MULLIGAN STEW (DA, I907). 1906 RoundTable. May 27. 162z/ 'Here you are ... bringin some Mulligan.' NEW ENGLAND PANCAKE. 1817M. E. Rundell,A New System Cookery of Domestic Pancakes(caption). New York. 3d ed. p. 163 New-England NEW ENGLAND WEDDING CAKE. 1837 (F. H. McDougall) The Housekeeper's Book. WeddingCake (caption). Philadelphia. p. 40oNew England Boston. p. Ii/I 'Ef yer NIGGER-EYEBALL. i88o J. O. Kaler, After Darkin Boston. don't like boloney,me an' Patsey'llbuy a whole lot of peanutsan' nigger-eyeballs, an' give yer all yer kin eat.'
NUGEY.

OYSTER CRACKER (DA, 1879). 1873 Kansas Magazine. 3: 273/2 department was poorly supplied . . . four small oyster crackers.

clean dickey, and go andtalk as sweet as nugey, or molassescandy ... ORANGE FOOL. 1817 M. E. Rundell,A New Systemof DomesticCookery ... York. 3d ed. p. 196 OrangeFool (caption).

I847 The AmericanJoe Miller. Philadelphia. p. z15 Wash your face, put on a

New

Our commissary

of Domestic Cookery... New York. 3d ed. p. 17o Oyster Patties (caption). PAN CREAM. 1952 Marian Tracy, Coastto CoastCookery.Bloomington, Ind. p. 295 Pan

OYSTER PATTY (DAE, I8z8; NED, no date). I817 M. E. Rundell,A New System

Cream.Thick creamskinnedfrom the top of fresh milk.

PEACH CHIPS. 1836 Mary Randolph, The Virginia Housewife ...

Peach Chips (caption). PEACH MARMALADE. 1836 Mary Randolph,The VirginiaHousewife... Baltimore. (caption). p. 156 Peach Marmalade PEMMICAN (DA, pimmecon,1791; pemmican,1824). i8o6 Priscilla Wakefield,ExLondon.p. 349 ... they poundinto pemmican,somethinglike in North America. cursions pottedmeat.
PEPPERMINT DROP (DAE, 1843; NED, 1878). 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery... New York. 3d ed. p. 224 Peppermint Drops (caption). PHILADELPHIA SCRAPPLE. x912 Mary Dawson, Book of Parties and Pastimes. New York.p. 267 Philadelphia Scrapple(menu). PILOT BISCUIT (DA, 1944). 1884 Outing. April. 4: 9/1 And, as I lay before the fire 1904 Outing. 45: 536/z . . . his two pairs of ... I munched a round pilot-biscuit ...

Baltimore. p. I56

Germansocks and the pilot biscuit in his hands,completedthe comic sketch. (DAE, pilotcracker, i88o). POORBOY SANDWICH. 195z New OrleansItem. 2/28 'Way back yonder when a poorboy sandwich was just that--namely, a five-cent filling of bread, meat and mixed pickles for a poor boy ...' sausages. pork cartridges... n. 'Cartridges,' PRINCETON COLLEGEPUDDING. 1817M. E. Rundell,A New Systemof Domestic ... New York.3d ed. p. 153 PrincetonCollege Puddings(caption). Cookery PUCHERA. 1885 Outing.March. 5: 412/1 First there was vermicelli soup; then a heapedon a large platter, and composed of meat, palatablekind of stew called puchera, a and beans, carrots, maize, variety of other vegetables... gourds, ... Cookery QUAKING PUDDING. 1817 M. E. Rundell,A New Systemof Domestic New York. 3d ed. p. 154 QuakingPudding(caption). RED BEAN. 19o3 Everybody's 9: 8/I Here we met Blake, a husky young Magazine. fellow with a world of good cheerin his make-up,who gave us excellentbread,some wellcooked red beans, andan apple-pie. ROAST-CORN (DA, 1848). 1842 (N. S. Dodge) Sketches of New England.New York. p. x3 The berryingpartiesin the dull days of July; the roast-cornfrolics ... furnishsources
PORK CARTRIDGE. (I865) Civil WarHistory. March, 1958. p. 24 We sometimes got

of enjoyment...

CULINARYAMERICANISMS

3x

RUFFLES. 1875 Th&rese Yelverton, Teresinain America. London. z: 351 We were also

able to obtain wholesomebread,in place of the fearfully doughy compoundsknown as 'ruffles'and 'doughnuts.'
SARATOGA CHIP (DA, I88o). t88o Golden Hours. I2: 314/1 So Bert's dinner that day consisted of. . . a Saratoga 'chip' . . . SARATOGA POTATOES (DA, Saratoga fried potatoes, 1876; DAE, 188o). 1877 Golden Hours. 9: 187/2 Saratoga Potatoes (recipe). SAUCE ROBERT. 18t7 M. E. Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery... New York. 3d ed. p. 131 SauceRobart,for Rumpsor Steaks (caption). SAVANNAH RICE CAKE. 1817 M. E. Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery

Rice Cakes (caption). ... New York. 3d ed. p. 237 Savannah Alaska.Pacific Coast SteamshipCo. 54 Herringroe is to SHAD ROE. I888 All about thenativeSitkanswhatthe shadroeis to thedwellerson the Susquehanna andthe Potomac...
SHELAH. 1844 The KitchenDirectory ... New York. p. 70 Shelah, or Quick Loaf Cake

(caption). SHERMAN'S PIES. (i865) Civil War History.March, 1958. p. z4 And oh! the rations that they brought,they did delight the eyes/ Of men whose only luxurieshad long been or 'hard-tack.' 'Sherman's hard-bread, pies,' the regulation pies.' n. 'Sherman
SHOE-STRING POTATOES (DA, 1931). 19r4 Christy Mathewson, Pitcher Pollock.

New York.p. 298 What do you say to a chop and some shoe-stringpotatoes and a salad? Months'Cake (caption)... A nice loaf of cake which can be kept for six monthsor longer. SNOW-BALL CAKE. 1902 The CalendarClub CookBook. Bridgton,Maine.p. z2 SnowBall Cake (caption).
SNOW BREAD. 1836 American Railroad Journal. 5: 271/3 Both this and the snow SIX MONTHS' CAKE. 19oz The CalendarClub CookBook. Bridgton, Maine. p. i4 Six

breadbake very well in a stove.

SNOWDRIFT. SNOW DRIFT CAKE.

Snowdriftand Snowflakeare simplygroundPop-corn. ..

1902

1883 Grocer'sCompanion. . . Boston. p. 112 The articles known as The Calendar Club Cook Book. Bridgton, Maine. p. 17

Snow Drift Cake (caption).

SNOWFLAKE.

Snowdriftand Snowflakeare simplygroundPop-corn. . SOFT-TACK (DA, 1890). (1865) Civil War History.March, 1958. p. 24 n. 'Soft tack,' of flour,excepthard-tack. any compound
SOURINGS.

1883 Grocer'sCompanion . . . Boston. p. I12 The articles known as

we foundto be an abbreviation 2: I37 The term of sourings, which is Philadelphia. sowins a dish of poundedcorn madesour by bakingin the sun ... ed. p. 15r Dutch Pudding,or Souster(caption).
SOUSTER. i8t7 M. E. Rundell, A New System of Domestic Cookery...

1856 Charles Lanman, Adventures in the Wilds of the United States . .

New York. 3d

.. Winnipeg. zd ed. p. 43 Spotteddog, plumpudding.(NED, no date. Also, spottedDick, 1849).

SPREAD (DA, i886). x866 Hours at Home. 3: 507/2 A late rebel told me that, while STRUDEL. I916 Jack Lait, Beef, Iron and Wine. New York (copyright 1915). p.

SPOTTED DOG (NED Sup., 1928). 191t John Sandilands, WesternCanadianDictionary

he went to a farm-house with Lee upon the Gettysburgh one day and demanded campaign, some 'spread,'as they call marmalade in that matter-of-fact country.
12

Alec foundBillingsrollinga cigaretteinto brown papertill it was finishedand looked like a strudel. for using by gaslightto eat before seven your breakfast But shouldyou have no inclination of succotashsteak . . you can remainin your own room. SUGAR HOUSE SYRUP (DAE, x88I). 1836 Mary Randolph,The Virginia Housewife
SUCCOTASH STEAK. 1875 Th&'rse Yelverton, Teresinain America. London. i: 279

32

AMERICANSPEECH

. . . Baltimore.p. 154 The sugarshouldbe the best doublerefined; but if the pureamber sugarhouse syrup fromthe West Indiescan be got, it is greatly superior. .. T-BONE STEAK (DA, 1934). 1928 Papers.Mich. Acad. of Sciences,Arts and Letters.
10: 329/x

the name of cinnati. p. 39 But they must not forget the excellent condiment. . .under 'tomatoketchup' . .
TOMATO MARMALADE.

T-bone steak, tenderloin steak. TOMATO KETCHUP (NED, 1896). 183i H. L. Barnum, Family Receipts .. . Cin1836 Mary Randolph, The Virginia Housewife .

. Balti-

more. p. I62 TomatoMarmalade (caption).