THE

JEWELRY
GUIDE
© 2009 Michael Sucar
This Guide will provide you with useful information and
guidelines that will assist you in recognizing, choosing
and buying jewelry all over the world.

International Ring Sizing (UK, Europe, Japan, USA)

Jewelry Measurements
Precious Metals
Common Jewelry Terms
International Ring Sizing
(UK, Europe, Japan, USA)
Diameter: internal diameter in millimeters
Circumference: internal circumference in millimeters

UK Europe Japan USA Diameter (mm) Circumference (mm)

0 11.54 36.25
A 11.90 37.38
0 12.00 37.70
A1/2 12.10 38.01
B 12.30 38.64
1 12.37 38.86
B1/2 12.50 39.27
1+1/4 12.58 39.52
C 12.70 39.90
0.15 1+1/2 12.78 40.15
C1/2 0.53 12.90 50.53
0.84 1 1+3/4 13.00 40.84
1.00 13.05 41.00
D 1.15 13.10 41.15
1.50 2 13.21 41.50
D1/2 1.78 13.30 41.78
1.88 2 13.33 41.88
 2.00 13.37 42.00
2.13 2+1/4 13.41 42.13
E 2.41 13.50 42.41
2.76 2+1/2 13.61 42.76
2.91 3 13.66 42.91
E1/2 3.00 13.69 43.00
3.42 2+3/4 13.82 43.42
F 3.67 13.90 43.67
3.98 4 14.00 43.98
4.00 14.01 44.00
4.14 3 14.05 44.14
F1/2 4.30 14.10 44.30
4.74 3+1/4 14.24 44.74
G 4.92 14.30 44.92
5.00 14.32 45.00
5.02 5 14.33 45.02
5.40 3+1/2 14.45 45.40
G1/2 5.55 14.50 45.55
6.00 14.64 46.00
6.02 3+3/4 14.65 46.02
6.06 6 14.66 46.06
H 6.18 14.70 46.18
6.68 4 14.86 46.68
H1/2 6.81 14.90 46.81
7.00 14.96 47.00
7.12 7 15.00 47.12
7.34 4+1/4 15.07 47.34
I 7.44 15.10 47.44
7.97 4+1/2 15.27 47.97
8.00 15.28 48.00
I1/2 8.07 15.30 48.07
 8.16 8 15.33 48.16
8.63 4+3/4 15.48 48.63
J 8.69 15.50 48.69
9.00 15.60 49.00
9.20 9 15.66 49.20
J1/2 9.32 5 15.70 49.32
K 9.95 5+1/4 15.90 49.95
10.00 15.92 50.00
10.27 10 16.00 50.27
K1/2 10.58 5+1/2 16.10 50.58
11.00 16.23 51.00
L 11.24 5+3/4 16.31 51.24
11.30 11 16.33 51.30
L1/2 11.87 6 16.51 51.87
12.00 16.55 52.00
12.34 12 16.66 52.34
M 12.46 16.70 52.46
12.56 6+1/4 16.73 52.46
13.00 16.87 53.00
M1/2 13.09 16.90 53.09
13.16 6+1/2 16.92 53.16
13.41 13 17.00 53.41
N 13.72 17.10 53.72
13.85 6+3/4 17.14 53.85
14.00 17.19 54.00
N1/2 14.35 17.30 54.35
14.44 14 17.33 54.44
14.51 7 17.35 54.51
O 14.98 17.50 54.98
15.00 7+1/4 17.56 55.00
15.48 15 17.66 55.48
O1/2 15.61 17.70 55.61
15.76 7+1/2 17.75 55.76
16.00 17.83 56.00
P 16.23 17.90 56.23
16.45 7+3/4 17.97 65.45
16.55 16 18.00 56.55
P1/2 16.86 18.10 56.86
17.00 18.14 57.00
17.15 8 18.19 57.15
Q 17.49 18.30 57.49
17.59 17 18.33 57.59
17.77 8+1/4 18.39 57.77
18.00 18.46 58.00
Q1/2 18.12 18.50 58.12
18.40 8+1/2 18.59 58.40
18.62 18 18.66 58.62
R 17.75 18.70 58.75
19.00 8+3/4 18.78 59.00
R1/2 19.38 18.90 59.38
19.66 9 18.99 59.66
19.69 19 19.00 59.69
S 20.00 19.10 60.00
20.38 9+1/4 19.22 60.38
S1/2 20.63 19.30 60.63
20.73 20 19.33 60.73
20.98 9+1/2 19.41 60.98
21.00 19.42 61.00
T 21.26 19.50 61.26
21.67 9+3/4 19.63 61.67
21.76 21 19.66 61.76
T1/2 21.89 19.70 61.89
 22.00 19.74 62.00
22.33 10 19.84 62.33
U 22.52 19.90 62.52
22.83 22 20.00 52.83
23.00 10+1/4 20.05 63.00
U1/2 23.15 20.10 63.15
23.59 10+1/2 20.24 63.59
V 23.77 20.30 63.77
23.87 23 20.33 63.87
23.99 20.37 63.99
24.28 10+3/4 20.46 64.28
V1/2 24.40 20.50 64.40
24.91 24 20.66 64.91
24.97 11 20.68 64.97
W 25.00 20.69 65.00
25.60 11+1/4 20.88 65.60
W1/2 25.66 20.90 65.66
25.97 25 21.00 65.97
26.00 21.01 66.00
26.22 11+1/2 21.08 66.22
X 26.29 21.10 66.29
X1/2 26.92 10+3/4 21.30 66.92
27.01 26 21.33 67.01
Y 27.51 12 21.49 67.51
28.02 21.65 68.02
28.05 27 21.66 68.05
Y1/2 28.20 12+1/4 21.71 68.20
Z 28.77 12+1/2 21.89 68.77
28.99 21.96 68.99
29.12 28 22.00 69.12
Z1/2 29.43 22.10 69.43
 29.49 12+3/4 22.12 69.49
Z+1 29.99 22.28 69.99
30.15 29 13 22.33 70.15
Z+1+1/2 30.69 22.50 70.69
30.81 13+1/4 22.54 70.81
31.00 22.60 71.00
31.19 30 22.66 71.19
Z+2 31.31 22.70 71.31
31.47 13+1/2 22.75 71.47
Z+2+1/2 32.01 13+3/4 22.92 72.01
32.26 31 23.00 72.26
Z+3 32.57 23.10 72.57
32.76 14 23.16 72.76
33.01 23.24 73.01
Z+3+1/2 33.20 23.30 73.20
33.32 23.34 73.32
33.29 32 23.33 73.29
33.42 14+1/4 23.37 73.42
Z+4 33.83 23.50 73.83
33.98 14+1/2 23.55 73.98
34.33 33 23.66 74.33
Z+4+1/2 34.46 23.70 74.46
34.71 14+3/4 23.78 74.71
34.99 23.87 74.99
Z+5 35.08 23.90 75.08
35.40 34 15 24.00 75.40
Z+5+1/2 35.71 24.10 75.71
36.00 15+1/4 24.19 76.00
Z+6 36.34 24.30 76.34
36.43 35 24.33 76.43
36.69 15+1/2 24.41 76.69
Z+6+1/2 37.00 24.51 77.00
37.31 15+3/4 24.61 77.31
37.47 36 24.66 77.47
Z+7 37.60 24.70 77.60
38.00 16 24.83 78.00
Z+7+1/2 38.23 24.90 78.23
38.54 37 16+1/4 25.00 78.54
JEWELRY MEASUREMENTS

All Jewelry Dimensions are in millimeters unless noted otherwise.

Rings
Bracelets
Pendants
Necklaces
Earrings
Brooches
PRECIOUS METALS

PLATINUM

The platinum group metals (PGM), comprise six closely related metals: Platinum,
Palladium, Rhodium, Ruthenium, Iridium and Osmium. Platinum has a deep luster and a rich,
white color. It is rarer, heavier and denser than all precious metals and considered to be more
valuable than gold.
Platinum is often used to set the most valuable gems to produce the finest jewelry because it
holds gemstones most securely and it neutral color enhances the brilliance and depth of
diamonds and precious stones.
In the United States platinum is usually marked: PT or PLAT
In Europe, it is marked: 950 or PT950
Platinum Group Metals (PGM):
Palladium (Pd)

It is a relatively rare and soft, silvery white metal. When used in jewelry, it is alloyed with gold to
create white gold. It is also used to make setting.

Rhodium (Rh)

It is a brilliant silvery white metal that is used as a plating agent on platinum and white gold to create
a white very hard coating.

Ruthenium (Ru)

It is a grayish-white metal that has a high resistance to wear and is used in the manufacture of jewelry,
porcelain, etc.

Iridium (Ir)

It is a white, brittle and extremely hard metal. The alloy, which contains about 10 percent iridium and 90%
platinum, is much harder than pure platinum. Alloys containing larger percentages of iridium are used in
making precision and standard instruments, surgical tools, pen points.

Osmium (Os)

It is a bluish-white, brittle metal. Osmium and platinum alloy is used for standard weights and measures.
GOLD

Gold is a beautiful and imperishable metal. It was one of the first metals to be mined
because it commonly occurs in its native form (100% Pure) Pure (100%) gold is too soft, and it
is usually mixed with other metals (gold alloys) to make it stronger and more usable for
jewelry. The metals that are mixed with pure gold for strength can also modify the color of gold
resulting in different shades of yellow, white, and pink.

KARATS – Indicates the pure amount of gold in the metal. Abbreviation: kt

USA: 37.5% 41.7% 58.5% 75% 100%

USA: 9kt 10kt 14kt 18kt 24kt
World Wide 375 417 585 750 999
 PRICE - The following are some of the factors that determine the value of a gold jewelry
piece.

· weight: gold is sold by weight - grams(gr) or pennyweights(dwt), the heavier the piece, the
higher the gold content, therefore it is more expensive.
·design: designer jewelry is more expensive, especially if it is a one of a kind piece.
·finish: special finishes to the metal such as matte, or sand-blasted finish add to the cost of the
gold jewelry piece.
SILVER

Silver is the most reflective and affordable of the precious metals.

Sterling silver is the standard of quality for articles containing 92.5% silver and 7.5% copper.

Vermeil is a gold plated sterling silver.

MARKS - percentage of pure silver
· General -Sterling Silver
·American - 925
·European - 935
·French - 800
·Russian - 88 or 84
COMMON JEWELRY TERMS

Blemish
Imperfections found on the surface of a Diamond.

Brilliance
describes how well a diamond reflects white light.

Carat
is a unit of weight measurement used for weighing diamonds. One carat equals 0.2 grams or 200
milligrams. 142 carats equals one (1) avoirdupois ounce.

Clarity
measures the degree of visibility of surface blemishes or internal inclusions of a diamond.
Cloud
Minor inclusion appearing milky rather than dark or ash like, only minimally detracting from the
stone's appearance.

Color
measures the tint or internal color of a diamond, ranging from colorless to light brown or yellow.

Crown
refers to the upper domed surface above the girdle of a cut diamond. The angle of the crown
between the girdle and the table is considered acceptable at between 30.0-37.0 degrees. Crown
height is considered acceptable when between 11.0-16.2% of the girdle's diameter.

CT or CTS
Stands for total carat weight of singular stone.
CTW
Indicates the total diamond carat weight of the jewelry item.

Culet
is the end point of the pavilion, finer being considered better, however a sharp point is susceptible
to chipping.

Cut
refers the shape (round, square, emerald, pear, oval, marquis, etc.) and proportions of a cut
diamond.
Depth
is the vertical height of the diamond from the table to the cutlet. Considered acceptable when
between 57.0 to 65.0% of the girdle's diameter.
Eye Clean
Diamond appears to be free of surface blemishes and inclusions to the naked eye. Diamonds
graded SI-2 or better will appear to be eye clean.

Facets
are the small polished plane surfaces of a cut gem stone. A brilliant (round), full-cut diamond has
56 facets, while stones under 3 points can have as few as 16 (single cut).

Finish
Refers to the quality of the diamond's polish and symmetry.

Fire
Describes the intensity and diversity of the light spectrum (rainbow colors) emanating from a
diamond.
Fluorescence
Refers to the emission of photoluminescence by a diamond detectable under a black light. Blue
fluorescence can enhance a diamonds color, but other colors are considered less desirable.

Girdle
refers to the edge where the crown and pavilion of a cut diamond meet, marking the maximum
diameter or width of the diamond. A girdle width of between 2.0-4.0% of the girdle's diameter is
considered acceptable. Too sharp or thin a girdle increases the likelihood of chipping.

Girdle Diameter
is the diameter of the diamond at the point where the crown and pavilion meet. Other dimension
characteristics of a cut diamond are expressed as a percentage (%) of the girdle diameter.

Included
refers to the internal defects of a diamond, appearing as ash like flakes, cracks, clouds, or other
imperfections.
Make
Describes the diamond's cut and proportions.

Pavilion
is the tapered under half or base of a cut diamond below the girdle. The angle of the pavilion from
the girdle to the cutlet is considered acceptable when between 39.7-41.7 degrees. Pavilion depth
is considered acceptable when between 41.5-45.5% of the girdle’s diameter.

Point
is a unit of weight equal to 1/100 of a carat, 100 points equaling one carat, and written as 1.00
carat.

Polish
Describes the luster of a diamond's exterior finish.
Symmetry
Describes if the diamond is true to its desired shape and is in balanced proportions.

Table
is the flat top surface of a cut diamond. Table diameter is considered acceptable when between
51.4-66.0% of the girdle's diameter.

© 2009 Michael Sucar