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G RADIENT M E S H T U TO R I A L
H O W TO D R AW T H E R E D B E L L P E P P E R
- I N T RO TO THE MESH-
A t t hi s p o i n t I would like to stress the fact that you may want to use your ow n
p h o t o g r a p h y o r sketches as reference. You don't want to fall into any legal i s s u e s
l a t e r, o r re c e i v e any negative feedb ack from someone who might recognize y o u r
s o u rc e .
I f y o u ' re re n d e ring directly from a photo, before taking the picture it is impo r t a n t t o
c o n si d e r y o u r composition, consider approaching your subject at a different a n g l e ,
a n d c o n s i d e r y our lighting. (Remember, make it interesting!) Also, once you' v e g o t
d i g i t a l f i l e s o f your photos, you may want to retouch them in Photoshop befo re y o u
b e g i n re n d e r i n g. Don't be afraid to brighten up your image, remove unneces s a r y
s h a d o w s o r o b jects, or even change the color scheme to make it more excit i n g .
- MESH BASICS-
T h e re a re o n l y a few parts to the m esh tool that you should become familiar w i t h . Yo u
a l re ad y k n o w what anchor points are, but within a mesh they work a bit diffe re n t l y.
T h e y a re n ’t j u s t to create an outer shape anymore. They are the basis of all t h e c o l o r.
T h i s i s s o m e t h ing that makes the mesh so interesting, the way the colors ra d i a t e
f ro m e a c h a n c hor point & blend into one another so perfectly. There are only a f e w
w a y s t o m a n i p ulate & control this blending illusion, and that is with the anch o r
“ a r m s ” , w i t h t he in-between lines, and with the anchors themselves. [See (A)]
R e a d y, F re d d y ?
S T E P 1 – C re a ting Outlines
R e a d y f o r y o u r first big mesh secret? I never use just one mesh within a rend e r i n g . I
l i k e t o w o r k w i th smaller, simpler m eshes and basically “blend” them togethe r.
R e m e m b e r - y our audience will never see what goes on “behind the scenes” , s o g o
r i g h t a h e a d & l ayer your heart away with shapes.
U s i n g y o u r p e n tool, draw over the main red section of the pepper. Keep in m i n d t h a t
t h e m e s h d o e s n’t work well with cor ners, funky shapes & hard edges. The m e s h w i l l
f o r m t o w h a t e ver shape it’s created in - so create the contour as round & sim p l e a s
p o s s i b l e b y u s i ng your Bezier curves. Put your first shape on its own layer & l a b e l i t
“ F ro n t ( l e f t ) ” . [See (C)]
G o ah e a d & c reate a shape for the other large section of the pepper to the r i g h t .
M a k e i t a s ro u nd as possible. When you’re done, place it on a layer BELOW t h e m a i n
s h a p e s o n o o ne will see the overlap once the rendering is complete. Label t h i s l a y e r
“ F ro n t ( r i g h t ) ” . Continue drawing over the remaining layers & label them as f o l l o w s :
B e h i n d F ro n t ( Right), Behind Front (Left), Back (Left), and Back (Right). [See (D)]
A l s o d r a w t h e stem & put it on its own layer labeled “Stem”. In this tutorial, w e w o n ’t
b e p u t t i n g a m esh on it. It’s simple & flat enough to recreate as a non-mesh v e c t o r
w i t h s o m e re a l ly nice old fashioned gradients. [See (E)]
S T E P 2 – B a c kup!
N o w t h a t y o u have your outlines, select it all and copy & paste it into one m o re l a y e r.
C a l l i t “ J U S T I N CASE”. Go ahead & hide that layer until you need it later. FY I : Yo u
m a y n o t n e e d i t but it’s always nice to have something to fall back on in cas e y o u
n e e d t o s t a r t o ver. (I made this its own step because it is a vital one – a lifes a v e r i n
s o m e c a s e s ! ) [See (F)]
S T E P 3 – A d d i ng Color
O n c e y o u ’ re d one with this step, holy crap — you’re ready for the mesh!
L i k e I ’ v e s a i d before, there are many ways to go about using the mesh tool. I ’ m g o i n g
t o w a l k y o u t h rough the easiest possible route. It starts off a bit confusing, b u t b e a r
with me.
G o ah e a d & t u r n it into outline mode (V iew > Outline, or command Y). FYI: I n o rd e r
f o r t h i s t o w o r k correctly, you have to begin using the mesh BEFORE tur ning i t t o
o u t l i n e m o d e . If you try to use the mesh after the fact, it won’t work. [See (I)]
Yo u ’ l l n o t i c e t hat you can now see the photo through your shape. This is wh y i n S T E P
1 w e t u r n e d o ur photo into a template. (In outline mode, you can still see te m p l a t e
l a y e rs a s i s . ) T his is how you will get your colors & mesh points as accurate a s
possible.
T i m e t o s t a r t c licking away - but be aware that you can only add points to e x i s t i n g
m e s h l i n e s . D o n’t get frustrated! Just try & work with it. [See (J)]
N o w f o r s o m e basic guidelines. Wh ile adding mesh points, focus on the ligh t s &
d a r k s . D o n ’t t r y to add points for the “in-between” color values. Usually the m e s h w i l l
t a k e c a re o f t h at for you. [See (K)]
U s e y o u r e y e d ropper as you go along. (Or you can wait until the end.) Simpl y s e l e c t
o n a n i n d i v i d u al mesh anchor point (with either your direct select tool or y o u r
g r a d i e n t m e s h tool), and use your eyedropper on the color that it’s sitting o n o r
d i re c t l y n e x t t o . (ZOOM IN if you need to!)
S o m e t h i n g t o keep in mind also is that you have to trust the colors your ey e d ro p p e r
p i c k s u p . S o m etimes they appear to be raw & just plain wrong, but keep goi n g
a n y w a y. I n re a l life, shadows can be practically any color – green, grey, blue , p u r p l e ,
e v e n y e l l o w. I f later the color still appears to be unnatural, change it.
T h e re a re a c o uple of major benefit s to outline mode. One, you can work rig h t o n t o p
o f t h e p i c t u re , adding mesh points & picking your colors simultaneously. Two , y o u
c a n f l i p b a c k & forth with your shortcut keys (command Y) to see your prog re s s a s
y o u g o a l o n g . This technique, by the way, may be considered “cheating”, bu t i t ’s a
g re a t & e a s y method to lear n how t he mesh works.
S T E P 5 – R e p eat!
O n c e y o u ’ v e f i nished with your “Front (Left)” mesh, hide that layer & begin w o r k i n g o n
“ F ro n t ( R i g h t ) ” using the same technique. Remember to start your mesh befo re y o u
t u r n i t t o o u t l i ne mode. [See (L)]
R e p e a t t h i s p rocess with all your layers, minus your “Stem” layer. Remembe r t h a t n o
o n e w i l l e v e r s ee whatever’s directly behind the shapes that are in front. Wh a t ’s
i m p o r t a n t i s t h at you train your eye to pay attention to where the color chan g e s o n
e a c h s h a p e , w here light meets dark. Trust your photo. [See (M)]
O n c e a l l y o u r mesh shapes are completed, and you have your layers tur ned b a c k o n ,
y o u m a y n o t i c e that the edges of each shape don’t quite match up to one an o t h e r. A n
e a s y t r i c k t o g et all your shapes to look more natural when they are all toge t h e r i s t o
o n c e a g a i n t a k e advantage of your eyedropper. Zoom in as close as you can & s e l e c t
t h e v a r i o u s p o i nts along the edges. One by one, grab the closest color to th e s h a p e
n e x t t o i t . T h i s should “smooth out” your pepper tremendously.
S T E P 7 – F i n i s hing Up
Yo u m a y b e a s king yourself why I h ave chosen not to put a mesh on the stem . Yo u
c e r t a i n l y c a n i f you want to. But, you see, none of my renderings are ever en t i re l y
m e s h . F i n a l d e tails are always traditional flat vectors. It’s just my style. But f e e l f re e
t o re n d e r i t a n y way that you wish. You can view how I did it in the final file t h a t I ’ v e
p ro v i d e d ( “ f n i s hedpepper.ai”). [See (N)]
C D
E F
G H
J K
L M