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INGREDIENTS:
3" square-drive deck screws1 1/2" Phillips self-countersinking wood screws(exterior grade)Sheet-metal screws for wood with rubber washers5 tubes of clear silicone caulking1 gallon Man O’ War exterior marine varnish1 quart Rust-Oleum aluminum paintMixing bucket for paintPaint sticks for mixing2 rolls of roofing asphalt3 pounds of 3/4" roofing nails2 tubes of Henry’s Asphalt Roof Coating5 10' lengths of 1" x 1" drip-edge metal flashing6 8' lengths of 5/8" “J”flashingCorrugated foam material1/2" particleboard or Sheetrock (optional)Wall insulation (optional)1 36" x 80" door (we used birch)2 satin nickel-plated door hingesLocking doorknob9 concrete piers
TOOLS:
Circular (skill) sawChop sawTable sawElectric drillOrbital sander with 120-grit sandpaper4 sawhorses16' tape measureCarpenter’s squareCarpenter’s pencilCarpenter’s knifeChiselHammerAbrasive metal-cutting blade for circular sawTin snipsCaulk gunString lineString line levelShims5 sheets of 220-grit sandpaper5 smooth-wall foam paint rollersPaint thinnerBlue masking tapeCloth ragsSafety gogglesEarplugsWork glovesClamps
10' X10' MODULARDWELLING
$1,500
Designed by Edgar Blazona
   A   l   l   d   o  -   i   t  -  y   o  u   r   s   e   l   f   a   c   t   i  v   i   t   i   e   s   i   n  v   o   l  v   e   r   i   s   k .   S   k   i   l   l   s ,   m   a   t   e   r   i   a   l   s ,   t   o   o   l   s ,   a   n   d   s   i   t   e   c   o   n   d   i   t   i   o   n   s  v   a   r  y  w   i   d   e   l  y .   A   l   t   h   o  u   g   h   t   h   e   e   d   i   t   o   r   s   h   a  v   e   m   a   d   e   e  v   e   r  y   e   f   f   o   r   t   t   o   e   n   s  u   r   e   a   c   c  u   r   a   c  y ,  y   o  u   r   e   m   a   i   n   r   e   s   p   o   n   s   i   b   l   e   f   o   r   t   h   e   s   e   l   e   c   t   i   o   n   a   n   d  u   s   e   o   f   t   o   o   l   s   a   n   d   m   e   t   h   o   d   s .   O   b   e  y   l   o   c   a   l   c   o   d   e   s   a   n   d   l   a  w   s ,   f   o   l   l   o  w   m   a   n  u   f   a   c   t  u   r   e   r   s   ’   o   p   e   r   a   t   i   n   g   i   n   s   t   r  u   c   t   i   o   n   s ,   a   n   d   o   b   s   e   r  v   e   s   a   f   e   t  y   p   r   e   c   a  u   t   i   o   n   s .   B   e   c   a   r   e   f  u   l   o  u   t   t   h   e   r   e .
 
PAGEDRAWINGSCALECONTRACTORNOTES
1
FloorFrontBackRoofSides
Floor frame
(all wood is 2" x 4")2 120" lengths9 117" lengths2 10
1
 / 
2
" lengths6 14
1
 / 
4
" lengthsDiagram A:Set out four sawhorses in a 10' square on alevel surface. Use the 3" square-drive deckscrews to assemble the two 120" pieces withtwo 117" pieces to make a 10' square. Usescrews on exposed areas to help preventrusting. Assemble the rest of the floor joistusing the deck screws. Screw in the outsidepieces of 14
1
 / 
4
" blocking from the outside in.This blocking will be used to screw down theplywood floor later. Check the remainingblocking dimensions for exact size (about10
1
 / 
2
", depending on wood thickness). Cutthe blocking to the correct size and install.The plywood floor panels will be laid downwhen the building is erected.
Front frame
(all wood is 2" x 4")2 108" lengths3 110" lengths1 80
3
 / 
8
" length1 23
1
 / 
8
" lengthDiagram B:Use the deck screws to assemble the outsiderectangle with two 110" and the two 108"pieces. Assemble the inside portion startingwith the remaining 110" horizontal piece.(Use the 80
3
 / 
8
" piece as a guide to determinewhere to screw in the 110" horizontal piece.)Now screw in the 80
3
 / 
8
" piece in the correctlocation to create the entryway, which
must
be perfectly square to install the door. Screwin the remaining 23
1
 / 
8
" piece. Note that thisopening is the same width as the door opening.
Back frame
(all wood is 2" x 4")2 96" lengths3 110" lengths4 80
3
 / 
8
" lengths2 11
1
 / 
8
" lengthsDiagram C:Assemble the outside rectangle using two110" and 96" pieces. Lumber markingsshould face in. Screw in the remaining 110"horizontal piece using an 80
3
 / 
8
" piece as yourguide.Now screw in the 80
3
 / 
8
pieces. Cut twoscrap pieces of wood at 20
7
 / 
8
" to use as aguide between the studs. Working from theoutside in, alternate from side to side. Thecenter dimension will be slightly different.Screw in the two 11
1
 / 
8
" pieces at the centerof the opening.
Side frames
(all wood is 2" x 4")2 113
3
 / 
16
" lengths2 96" lengths2 108" lengths4 113" lengths6 80
3
 / 
8
" lengths2 18
3
 / 
4
" lengthsDiagram D:The directions for assembling the right andleft sides are the same. If you’re cutting yourown wood, cut all pieces except the 113
3
 / 
16
”for both right and left sides. Screw the 96"and the 108" pieces to the 113" piece tomake a “U” shape. Attach the remaining113
3
 / 
16
" horizontal piece using the 80
3
 / 
8
"lengths as guides to determine the exactpositioning. Screw in the 80
3
 / 
8
" pieces start-ing at the back (Fig. 1). Cut two scrap piecesof wood at 22
1
 / 
2
" to use as guides betweenthe studs. Measure and cut the angled hori-zontal piece (113
3
 / 
16
"). Now screw it in. Cutthe 18
3
 / 
4
" piece with one 84° angle cut. Fitinto place and screw together from the topon the side that will not have Plexiglasinstalled so the screws won’t show through.
Roof frame
(if using
1
 / 
2
" wall paneling orSheetrock, use these dimensions)2 73
1
 / 
2
" lengths4 112" lengths (if not covering walls withsheetrock or paneling, use 4 113" lengthsinstead)6 22
1
 / 
2
" lengthsDiagram E:Screw the two 73
1
 / 
2
" pieces to the outside112" horizontal pieces to create a rectangle.Screw in the two remaining 112" piecesusing the 22
1
 / 
2
" pieces as spacers, thenscrew in the 6 22
1
 / 
2
" pieces.
FRAMING
Tip:
If you’re cutting the wood yourself,use a chop saw for all the pieces exceptthe 10
1
 / 
2
" lengths. Note that only two ofthe nine 117" lengths will be exposedwhen the building is done, making thisa good place to use the wood that hasdings or is not quite as pretty as the rest.
Tip:
You can use the 14
1
 / 
4
" pieces toachieve the correct spacing in the floor joist. Work from the outside in, leavingtwo 10
1
 / 
2
" spaces in the center.
Tip:
Use the straightest and least-damaged wood for the front wall. Makesure all lumber markings are hiddenfrom view.
1
ABDEC
The first step in building your MD100is to assemble the four walls, thefloor, and the roof frame.
 
PAGEDRAWINGSCALECONTRACTORNOTES
2
8 6' pieces4 111" pieces (cut to size)
Side walls
Start from the bottom and center the 72"metal siding between the two horizontal2" x 4"s (Fig. 2). Place the siding flush to theoutside edge of the 2" x 4"s. Lay out the foursheets so they fit evenly between the 2" x 4"s.Overlap the siding, tucking each lower sheetunder the upper sheet, to prevent water fromseeping in. Fit the “J” flashing along the edgeof the corrugated metal. Mark and cut to size(about 82
1
 / 
2
") with tin snips (Fig. 3). Fit theflashing into place. From the bottom, carefullypush in the corrugated foam material(Fig. 4). Screw in the bottom portion of thecorrugated metal using the sheet-metalscrews. Screw right through the metal sidingand into the 2" x 4". Working from the bottomup, screw in the corrugated panels.(Screwsshould be 19" to 20" apart.) Screw down theside and flashing, slightly angling the drill totuck the screw under the flashing.
Back wall
Starting from the bottom, lay out the 120"corrugated metal. One edge of the metalshould be
1
 / 
2
" from the outside edge. The cor-rugated metal will overhang the other side.Screw in the side that doesn’t need trimming,following the instructions for the side walls.Trim the metal to 111". Use a straight 2" x 4"to mark a line on the steel. To prevent thesteel from getting scratched, cover the goodside of the line with masking tape, includingwhere the skill saw will rest (Fig. 5). Set thedepth of the blade to cut only the metal, butdon’t worry if it roughs up the 2" x 4" slightly.Trim the metal. Assemble the “J” flashingand corrugated foam, and screw into place.
METAL SIDING
2 43
EXTERIOR PLYWOOD PANELS
(all 3/4
"
thick)
6 75
Tip:
To ensure a perfectly straight cut,use a long piece of wood as a guide forthe saw. Mark a line where you want tocut. Measure the distance from theedge of the blade to the edge of the bot-tom plate on the saw. Clamp the long,straight piece of wood to the piece to becut. Make sure the straight wood is thesame distance from the cut line as theedge of the blade to the bottom plate ofthe saw. To cut, run the saw along theclamped piece of wood (Fig. 6). After allthe pieces are cut, use the orbitalsander and 120-grit sandpaper tosmooth the surface and edges. Bevelthe top edge to help prevent splintering.
Floor
2 4' x 8' pieces2 2' x 4' pieces1 2' x 8' piece1 2' x 2' piece
Roof
3 48" x 81
1
 / 
2
"3 48" x 63"
Sides
1 42" x 82
1
 / 
21
"1 42" x 20" x 42" x 24
3
 / 
4
"(trapezoid)2 72
1
 / 
2
" x 20" x 72
1
 / 
2
" x 12
1
 / 
2
"(trapezoid)
Back
2 12
1
 / 
2
" x 55
5
 / 
8
"
Silver-staining the plywood and door.
Usea paint stick to mix the Rust-Oleum. In abucket, thin half of the Rust-Oleum with anequal part of paint thinner. Use a foam rollerto apply the mixture evenly to the plywood,including edges (Fig. 7). (Don’t apply thepaint in direct sunlight as it will dry up fast!).Let the stain saturate the wood for 5 min-utes. Use a clean, dry rag to remove excesspaint, wiping in the direction of the grain toavoid a streaky look. Repeat these steps forboth sides and edges of the door. Let piecesdry overnight.
Applying clear finish to plywood and door.
Apply three even coats of Man O’ War (realname!) finish to all exposed surfaces of theplywood, including the door. Allow each coatto dry overnight. After each coat has hard-ened completely, lightly sand by hand with220-grit sandpaper (taking care not to sandthrough your sleek new coat).
Installing plywood siding.
After all threecoats of the Man O’ War finish have beenapplied, place one wall frame face-up on thesawhorses. Set the plywood into place andalign all pieces. If everything fits togethercorrectly, removethe panels and set aside.Lay down a
1
 / 
4
" bead of clear silicone caulk-ing where the plywood will be installed.Carefully set the plywood in place and screwit to the frame every 12" to 20". Wipe offexcess silicone globs with a damp rag.Continue until all of the plywood siding hasbeen installed.
It’s best to assemble this on sawhorses for easy access to both sides of the wall.
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