PREPARING THE SITE FOR ESTABLISHMENTOF LAWN
Alawn has a charm on its own. It serves to enhance the beautyof a garden, be it large or small. It enhances the beauty of surroundingobjects, whether they are trees, shrubs or flower beds.The lawn areaneeds to be well drained. If the area suffers from water retention, it may be necessary to lay a soak away or drainage pipes. If a lawn is to be laidaround a newly built house, you can expect the builders to have buriedsome building waste and also to have mixed top and soils. If there is any builder’s sand left, do not dig it in - you need 'sharp sand' to conditionsoil not 'builder’s sand'. Start by removing all large stones, blocks andany obviously non-organic rubbish from the surface.If you are replacing an existing lawn, dig off the existing grass toabout two inches. A lawn grows best on well drained medium loam, if your soil is like this, your preparation can be minimal, but if the soil isclay or sandy, you'll need to do more work. With heavy clay soils, youshould add sharp sand, well decomposed manure, garden compost or rotted leaves. This will improve drainage under the lawn. With sandysoils, you should add well decomposed manure or rotted leaves. Thiswill improve moisture retention under the lawn. The top soil needs to be prepared to give a fine, workable soil to a depth of 4 to 5 inches (10 to12 cm) - if you are adding organic material, you should aim for aminimum depth of 6 inches (15 cm). If the area of the lawn is fairlysmall, it can be prepared by hand using a spade. For larger areas it isworth using a rotavator - borrowing or hiring one if necessary. Whenstarting to prepare the soil, it needs to be not too dry and not too wet.Start by digging or rotavating the whole area to the required depth, breaking down any large clumps of soil and remove any stones or rubbish that you see. When digging, work backwards so you don't treaddown the soil you've just broken up.