HANDLOOM CONSTRUCTION A Practical Guide for the Non-Expert

Written and IllustratedByJoan KosterPublished and Distributed by:Volunteers in Technical Assistance, Inc.VITA

HANDLOOM CONSTRUCTION A Practical Guide for the Non-Expert

Written and IllustratedByJoan KosterPublished and Distributed by:Volunteers in Technical Assistance, Inc.VITA1600 Wilson Boulevard, Suite 500Arlington, Virgnia 22209 USATel: 703/276-1800 . Fax: 703/243-1865Internet: pr-info@vita.orgACKNOWLEDGEMENTSVITA acknowledges, with deep thanks and appreciation to theauthor, this very special contribution to its developmentwork.Handloom Construction was written and illustrated by JoanKoster--educator, anthropologist, artist and weaver.Koster, a long-time VITA Volunteer, has provided assistancethrough VITA to loom builders and weavers around the world.VITA is very pleased to be able to offer a portion ofKoster's work collected in one manuscript.Special thanks go also to VITA Volunteer Virginia Palmerfor her review and comments, to Margaret Crouch and LaurelDruben of the VITA staff for editorial work, to VITAstaffer Carolyn Marcus, whose skill at layout and pagedesign so well highlighted the author's excellent work, andto VITA Volunteer Kit Cone, for typesetting services. Mt.Rainier, Maryland USA1979

TABLE OF CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION1 Which Loom to Build?Fibers: Choice and PreparationWhat Products to Weave?HANDLOOM CONSTRUCTIONThe LoomsTable I

Table IITable III2 A Weaver's Dictionary3 The Simple Frame LoomMaterials NeededConstructionHow to Weave on a Frame LoomVariations of the Simple Frame LoomHow to Weave on a Pegged Loom4 The Inkle LoomMaterials NeededConstructionSet Up the Loom for WeavingHow to Weave on an Inkle LoomSteps in Weaving5 The Foot-powered LoomPit Loom VersionMaterials NeededConstructionFree-Standing Loom VersionMaterials NeededConstructionThe Moveable Parts for Both Loom DesignsWarp the Foot-Powered LoomHow to Weave on a Foot-Powered LoomSteps in Weaving on Both Looms6 The Weaver's ToolsThe BeaterThe RaddleThe ShuttlesThe SkeinerThe Skein WinderThe StretcherThe Warping Board for a Foot-Powered Loom7 Weaves, Patterns and Finishing TouchesPlanning the FabricKeeping RecordsFacingswarp-faced weaveweft-faced weavebalanced weave