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№5 May 2009
 
Your sporadically published guide to what’s happening in and around Bishkek 
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Mythical Issyk Kul:
Restaurant GuideTourist MapsWhat’s On
..
40 som/сом
Underwater mysteries
 
Plus:
The Spektator guide to Issyk Kul
Rot-Front: A village of Germans in KyrgyzstanThe lowdown on the Som GangThe adventures of an emigrating dog...and much more!
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 The NCCR North-South is one o twenty National Centres o Com-petence in Research implemented by the Swiss National ScienceFoundation. Created in the understanding that development re-search and cooperation are o primary concern to Switzerland, itcurrently comprises a network o about 400 researchers world-wide. The Central Asia partnership region comprises Kyrgyzstan, Kaza-khstan, Tajikistan and Uzbekistan. Work in this region has beenparticularly challenging as the highly specialised and discipli-nary research tradition inherited rom the Soviet period did notsupport integrated approaches, methodologies and concepts.Since its inception in 2001, eorts by the NCCR North-South andits local partners have had a major impact on inter-institutionalresearch collaboration within the region.
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ww.nccr-central-asia.org
 
Contents
This Month
 
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The spektator is now online at www.thespektator.co.uk 
.co.uk 
What’s On
The pick o the entertainment listings.
27282421410
Restaurants, Bars, Clubs
All the best bars and clubs in town.
Weekend
Crosswords, sudoku, and other things todo over a coee.
The Guide
Issyk Kul Map
Go orth and sunbathe.
Out & About
News and Views
What’s caught our interest this Month?
Exodus Over
Although most ethnic Germans have letKyrgyzstan or Europe, David Trilling visitsthe old German village o Rot Front andfnds that some have decided to stay.
Focus
Restaurant Review: Damashq
Chris Hattayer samples Bishkek’s takeon Levantine cuisine.
16
Issyk Kul: A Slapdash Guide
Don’t begin your Issyk Kul holiday withoutreading our guide to some o the high-lights and pitalls that await the summertourist.
12
The Spektator Magazine
Editor & publisher:
 Tom Wellings(editor@thespektator.co.uk)
Sta writers:
Alex Ward (alexward@thespektator.co.uk), Robert Marks(robertmarks@thespektator.co.uk),Andreas Hedors, Chris Rickleton,Anders Conway, Anthony Butts (an-thonybutts@thespektator.co.uk),Asel Orozalieva
Guest Contributor:
Chris Hattayer
Design:
 Tom Wellings
Advertising Manager:
Irina Kasymova(email: advertise@thespektator.co.uk mobile: 0772 304146)
www.thespektator.co.uk 
Want to contribute as a reelancewriter? Please contact:editor@thespektator.co.uk 
The Spektator Magazine is available at locations throughout Bishkek, including:
(Travel Agencies) Adventure Seller, Ak-Sai Travel, Carlson Wagonlit, Celestial Mountains, Eotour, Glavtour,Kyrgyz Concept,Kyrgyz Travel, Muza, NoviNomad (Bars & Restaurants) Cowboy, Hollywood, Metro, New York Pizza, No1, 2x2, Boulevard, Cofeehouse, Doka, Fatboy’s, Four Seasons, Live Bar, Lounge Bar,Meri, Navigator, Stary Edgar’s Veranda, Adriatico, Cyclone, Dolce Vita, Santa Maria, Golden Bull (Casinos) Europa, Golden Dragon, XO (Hotels) Dostuk, Hyatt, Golden Dragon, Holiday, Alpi-nist (Embassies and
Organisations) The UN building, The American base, The German Embassy, The Dutch Consulate, CAMP
Ala-too, NCCR, The Bishkek Opera & Ballet Society.
COVER PHOTO (by Robert Marks)
Lake Issyk Kul rom Skazka Valley
The Som Gang
We begin a two-part look at the characterswho stare out rom Kyrgyz banknotes.
1814
COVER STORY: Mythical Issyk Kul
Long beore Tolstyak and ice cream, Issyk Kulwas witness to a mysterious and sometimesbrutal past. Tom Wellings investigates.
Gilpo’s Big Adventure
How to export a street dog to Europe.
20
City Map
Don’t get lost.
25
Stued animals
page7
Driedfsh
page 6
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