Welcome to Scribd, the world's digital library. Read, publish, and share books and documents. See more
Download
Standard view
Full view
of .
Look up keyword
Like this
1Activity
0 of .
Results for:
No results containing your search query
P. 1
Hamptons Magazine: Silver Lining

Hamptons Magazine: Silver Lining

Ratings: (0)|Views: 18|Likes:
Published by roodeloo
The American Dream is thriving at Silver's, a Southampton mainstay since 1923.
The American Dream is thriving at Silver's, a Southampton mainstay since 1923.

More info:

Published by: roodeloo on Jul 26, 2013
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial

Availability:

Read on Scribd mobile: iPhone, iPad and Android.
download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
See more
See less

11/07/2013

pdf

text

original

 
silver lining
THE AMERICAN DREAM IS THRIVING AT
SILVER’S
,A SOUTHAMPTON MAINSTAY SINCE 1923.
 
BY MATTHEW WEXLER PHOTOGRAPHY BY ERIC STRIFFLER
CLOCKWISE
 
FROM
 
BELOW
: Fresh Burrata andbasil with red ripe tomatoes; alfrescodining at Silver’s; Garrett Wellins isSilver’s third-generation chef/owner.
T
here was a time when you could buy an authentic Cuban cigar at Silver’s, now one of Southampton’s most nostalgic and notable res-taurants. Years later you might find military fatigues, British woolens, or electronics. Today, you’re more apt to indulge in that East Endclassic, a lobster roll (with 21st-century prices), and a glass of rosé.Manning the kitchen (and the front of house and everywhere in between)is Garrett Wellins, third-generation owner of the quaint bistro that sits idyllically tuckedaway on Main Street’s south end. Wellins, a good-humored multitasker who could start a side career as a double for Garry Shandling,has been in the business since he was 8 yearsold. With a smirk, he says his dad told him,“Come to work or I’ll kill you.” He’s beenthere ever since. While Wellins started bydoing small chores like stocking candy and magazines, his role evolved asSilver’s continued to reinvent itself through the years. The restaurant’s well-polished history dates back to 1923, when Wellins’sgreat-aunt and her husband established themselves in Southampton astailors for Bergdorf Goodman. They encouraged his grandparents, whohad been operating a not-so-successful cigar store in New Jersey, to movethe operation to the East End. Silver’s CigarStore was incorporated and flourished forthe next 40 years as the local smoke shop, at one point carrying more than 500 interna-tional newspaper and magazine titles. Uponentering the restaurant, the original humi-dor still stands proud, but it is also a reminder that the American Dream can
continued on page 66 
Silver’s was a modestmenu, but my dad waseager to survive andlooking to createsomething more unique.”
GARRETT WELLINS 
    C
   E
    L
  E
 B
R
A
T  
I   
N   
G    
64
HAMPTONS-MAGAZINE.COM
THIS WEEK: MIDDAY MEALS
 
   P   H   O   T   O   G   R   A   P   H   Y   B   Y   T   K  ;   I   L   L   U   S   T   R   A   T   I   O   N    B   Y   T   K
ABOVE
:
The lobster roll at Silver's is served with a mound of tail meat atop an EliZabar brioche bun.
BELOW
: The lemon tart is a favorite sweet treat at Silver's.
continued from page 64
SOME THINGS NEVERCHANGE
You might think that Silver’s vintage 1911 NCR cash register isan heirloom dating back to the store’s original inception. Notso. Wellins bought the antique several years back, thinking itwould add a touch of nostalgia to the restaurant. Themaximum the till can ring up is $69.95, which should beenough to keep the price of that lobster roll in check.
sometimes have a rude awakening. The lethal combination of the New York City newspaper strike (1962),the New York City transit strike (1966), and the relocation of the local post office caused what Wellins refers to as a “mercantile vacuum” on MainStreet, and his father was forced to rethink the business model or close upshop. He spent his last $5,000 to purchase a secondhand soda fountain andSilver’s was—once again—reborn. “It was a modest menu, my dad had noformal training,” recalls Wellins, “but he was eager to survive and looking to create something unique.” The historic building, which dates backmore than 100 years, reveals black and white linoleum floors, a bar made froma thick slab of marble, finely polishedbrass fixtures, and cream-colored wallsthat hold not Norman Rockwells, but original paintings by Wellins’s mother,Bess Silver. Trained as a dancer, Wellins’smom “always had some kind of art thing going,” he says. “She was a draftsman dur-ing World War II and eventually studiedat the Corcoran College of Art & Designin Washington, DC.” The paintings of dancers and nearby estates (which can bepurchased for the right price) add anotherlayer of local flavor to the restaurant, but it is the fresh, European-inspired menu that keeps customers coming back.“I did most of the grunt work when we went into the food business,” says Wellinsof his culinary training. “I worked with a 
continued on page 68 
lot of good chefs and did some catering. I got interested in French pâtis-serie. The menu evolved simply, but we put a European spin on it. Myfamily is of Russian heritage, so we have borscht on the menu. When wearrived in Southampton we were some of the few ‘Red Sea’ pedestrians” (a reference from Monty Python’s
 Life of Brian
). The menu relies on fresh, simply prepared ingredients, and the pricepoint doesn’t shy away from the fact that Silver’suses only the best. Carb-free din-ers beware: an irresistible chunkof warm, toasty bread will arrive,drenched in fruity olive oil andspiked with garlic and fresh pars-ley. You will not be able to resist it and with good cause. It’s theperfect accompaniment to creamyBurrata, basil, and tomato. Thisalone could be lunch, but then you’dbe missing out on the restaurant’ssignature seafood dishes. The lobsterroll may carry a hefty price tag, but the heaping mound of tail meat on anEli Zabar brioche bun ($40), lightlydressed with mayonnaise and chopped
Silver's menu has evolved frommodest beginnings to moresophisticated lunch offerings.
66
HAMPTONS-MAGAZINE.COM
TASTE

You're Reading a Free Preview

Download
scribd
/*********** DO NOT ALTER ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE ! ************/ var s_code=s.t();if(s_code)document.write(s_code)//-->