Circle Update

July 2013

IN THIS ISSUE:

CWW goes to Sicily

Wine Grapes seminar

The 2012 vintage in Bordeaux

Circle Update

July 2013

Circle Update is the newsletter of the Circle of Wine Writers

It is published five times a year: March, May, July, October and December Editor: Jim Budd 34 Frobisher Court, Sydenham Rise, London SE23 3XH tel: 020-8699 3173 Skype: gymbudd email: budmac@btinternet.com Deputy editor: Liz Sagues liz@sagues.force9.co.uk Circle Update is available to external subscribers for 60 a year. The Circles membership list is available in various media from 95. A special joint package of the membership list with frequent emailed updates through the year and a years subscription to Circle Update is available from 135. These options can be viewed at www.circleofwinewriters.org. For more information, please contact Andrea Warren (see below). Membership enquiries should also be directed to her.

Contents
Stuart Walton: chairmans words on England and CWW finances Jim Budd: 4.5 million fraudsters convicted Members news Circle members report on memorable experiences in Sicily: a passion for wine heritage, combined with modern practice With photos by Matt Wilson The CWW Wine Grapes seminar: Richard Bampfield MW reports on the LIWF event and Tom Lewis offers his view

July 2013
3 4 5-6

Issue 113

A surprise from Argentina: Gilbert Winfield discovers Susana Balbos touch with Torronts A tale of two seasons: Jim Budd notes remarkable contrasts in Champagne Will the time ever come for sak: Gilbert Winfield argues the case

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43-44 45 46 47

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Books 1: Its free and easy: Stephen Quinn on iPublishing Books 2: Weve been here: Jochen Erler on a wine guide to Sicily Books 3: Another Kickstarter project Neville Blech appeals for support, plus new and forthcoming titles Other news: including the Roederers short list

28-30 31-32

Bordeaux 1 - Terroir, and cash, is the key: John Salvi MW assesses the difficult 2012 vintage 33-38 Bordeaux 2 - Grands Crus Classs: Gilbert Winfield finds classic pleasures in 2009 and 2010

48-49 50-51

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Circle Officers
Stuart Walton (Chairman) 01803 296903 stuartwalton@hotmail.co.uk Tom Lewis (Treasurer) 07753 149360 tomsk71@hotmail.com Lindsay Oram (Secretary) 01895 633052 lindsayoram@blueyonder.co.uk Angela Reddin (Membership Secretary) 020 8704 1573 angela.reddin@gmail.com Jenny MacKenzie (Webmaster) 020 8878 0044 website@circleofwinewriters.org

Bordeaux 3 - Haut-Brions special birthday: Tom Lewis joined in the party 40-41

Noticed on the net: New Zealand wine beneath the waves, French co-op classified as national heritage and more 52-53 Your diary 54-55

While Circle Update is copyright of the Circle of Wine Writers, copyright of each individual contribution remains with its author (writer or photographer). Cover photos by Matt Wilson, Julys featured photographer (see Matts photos of the CWW Sicily trip pages 7-27). Front: Vines at Cottanera; back: red wine at Firriato Members who wish to send copies of articles in Circle Update to non-subscribers are requested not to forward the full issue. Pdf offprints of specific articles plus cover and contents page are freely available on request from the deputy editor, Liz Sagues. Membership of the Circle of Wine Writers (www.circleofwinewriters.org) is open to accredited wine journalists and other professionals communicating in the media about wine. As such, it is editorial policy to give the editor and each writer for Circle Update freedom to express his or her views. It must therefore be stressed that the Circle as an organisation does not formally associate itself with the opinions expressed by contributors, except where this is specifically stated.

Committee members
Jim Budd, Michelle Cherutti-Kowal, Michael Edwards, Vivienne Franks, Jamie Goode, Richard James, Anne Krebiehl, Herv Lalau, Steven Morris, Angela Reddin (tastings co-ordinator) Andrea Warren (Circle administrator) 01753-882320 andrea.warren@btinternet.com

Circle of Wine Writers 2013

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www.circleofwinewriters.org

Circle Update

July 2013

Will 2013 be a classic vintage for England?

From the chair: Stuart Walton

ack in January, speaking to a wine-tasting group keen to know more about English wines, I declared that what we desperately needed in the UK now was a decent summer. And lo, six months later, the country is basking in official health warnings, soaring pollen counts, estimates of the numbers of dead, and other such jollity. We are reminded again that air-conditioning is still in its infancy in our country, while the advice to Londoners to remember to carry bottled water with them when they get on the tube will be accompanied before long by the injunction to carry oxygen too. Still, the grapes are ripening, so we may be on course for a classic vintage. Earlier this month, your committee met in the swelter and addressed, under the guidance of our new treasurer Tom Lewis, the thorny question of the Circles finances. The steady decline reported to the AGM is obviously something that we cant continue to live with, and we have undertaken to work henceforward within annual budget projections that will enable us to plan what we are going to spend, and then stick to the budget as far as is possible. There will of course

always be contingencies, and we will continue to plan around the big-ticket events such as the Cyril Ray dinner and the Christmas party, but we must inevitably take closer control than we have in recent years. As I indicated at the end of last year, Jim Budd and Liz Sagues will be stepping down as editor and deputy editor of Circle Update in the latter half of 2014. In due course, well run an advertisement for the two posts, and hope to coordinate a smooth transfer of editorial responsibilities, Jim and Liz having kindly indicated that they will be on hand to show the new appointees the ropes. We expect to begin the process of finding their replacements from within the membership this autumn, and so Id like informally to ask you all to give some thought as to whether you might like to take on one of these jobs. Update remains our flagship
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publication, and will continue to play an important part in recording the activities and discussions of the Circle in the future. In June, we received an update from the chief executive of the Benevolent, the drinks industry charity for which the Circle has long been a corporate partner. There are changes afoot in the approach the organisation takes in cases of hardship, which often include severe poverty and even homelessness, as well as serious illness and disability. The intention in future is to take a more localised grass-roots approach to individual cases which, it is hoped, will enable the charity to offer relief to beneficiaries within their local communities. It is rewarding to know that our continued involvement with the Benevolent is contributing to this important work.

Circle Update

July 2013

Guilty verdict on 4.5m fraudsters

From the editor: Jim Budd

y thanks as usual to all contributors. For the second issue in succession we have detailed reports on a very successful CWW trip this time to Sicily. My particular thanks as always are due to Liz Sagues, my deputy editor. In the second half of June and at the beginning of July I spent several days in Southwark Crown Court, London, sitting in on the Nouveau World Wine Ltd/Finbow Wines Ltd fraud trial. Investors lost a total of 4.5 million. The trial started on 16th May and the jury finally concluded their deliberations more than two months later, on 17th July. Because frauds usually stretch over months, probably years, fraud trials customarily take much longer than, for example, a murder trial whose events tend to be confined to a relatively brief time. Fraud investigations and the subsequent trials tend to be hugely expensive both in terms of resources and in the time they take. They also involve the jury members in giving up weeks of their lives to listen to a mountain of evidence. Here you have some of the reasons why despite fraud now being taken more seriously fraudsters still have a good chance of getting away with their crimes. The Finbow proposition was that the company would buy cheap Italian white wine, ship it out to China and make an almost instant 50% profit. It also threw in a promise to buy back the wine from investors in the scheme, if their wine remained unsold after a year, at the original price. It looked like you couldnt lose... You would think that people would be wary, fearing that it all sounded too good to be true. How could the company

afford to buy back cheap white wine after its effective sell-by date? Would it be as easy to sell the wine in China as they were promised? Unfortunately some of the investors were so convinced by the Finbow proposition that they invested huge sums one punter parted with an extraordinary 290,000 and wont be seeing a penny of this again. It was not in dispute at the trial that record keeping at Nouveau and Finbow was scandalously poor non-existent for a considerable time at Nouveau. There was a criminal disregard for investors money, especially as many were persuaded to sink life savings and have now lost everything. At Finbow Daniel Snellings email persona was Aston because he drove an Aston Martin, which indicates that the motivation behind Nouveau/Finbow was to enrich Snelling rather than provide a profit for the investors. Fortunately the jury found Daniel Snelling, the ringleader and serial fraudster, guilty along with his sister, Dina Snelling, and Rebecca McDonald, his cousin. I suspect that McDonald was more pawn than fraudster. They will be sentenced in September and I trust that Daniel Snelling will be given a substantial prison sentence, especially as he chose to plead not guilty even though he had no convincing explanation as to why insufficient wine was bought to match that ordered by the clients.

Again, weather takes a wine toll

2013 is proving to be another tough year for some wine producers with hail decimating crops often in places where
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the harvest was very short last year. In the early hours of 17th June a violent hailstorm caused significant damage to a substantial swathe of Vouvrays vines. Now on 23rd July there are reports of hail and very heavy rain on the Cte de Beaune and early estimates of substantial damage. Sadly a years work can be destroyed in minutes, with often longer-term repercussions: a few minutes that can affect future investment plans and throw business strategies out of the window. No wonder I say no when someone suggests that I might like to have my own vineyard! Contributions to the October issue (114th edition) of Circle Update are greatly welcomed. They should be with me by 4th October 2013. Please send them to Jim Budd, 34 Frobisher Court, Sydenham Rise, London SE23 3XH. Tel: 020-8699 3173, skype: gymbudd, email: budmac@ btinternet.com. Also twitter: Jim Budd@jymbudd, + Google. Please also copy them to Liz Sagues, liz@sagues. force9.co.uk Attached documents should be in Word format or, alternatively, as a simple cut and paste. Update would also prefer to receive press releases by email. Where possible we prefer articles to be accompanied by photos. Please send them in as high a resolution as possible.

Circle Update

July 2013

Members news

Members who we have lost contact with and therefore have removed their details from the membership list: Max Allen, Peter Grogan, Helmut OKnall, David Moore, Kevin Tang, Guy Woodward The Circle currently has 269 members

Congratulations: New members

Email: cabyers-vqa@hotmail.com orcharles.byers@ sympatico.ca Websitewww.chuckbyers.com(personal), www.twoinavineyard.com(television show) Alessandra Piubello Journalist and editor Alessandra is a regular contributor to a number of magazines, which includes Spirito diVino, Look magazine and Cucina Gourmet. She has been writing about wine since 2003. Alessandra has also written two books on food Veronese Traditional Cooking and Veronese Desserts. Her particular interest is wine and food tourism. In addition to her native Italian Alessandra also speaks English and French. Via Merighi 14, 37138 Verona, Italy Mobile: +39 3483546001 Email: piubello@tin.it Skype: a.piubello To three of our members Steve Charters, Julia Harding MW and Jancis Robinson MW who received Jury Awards in the 2013 International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) Awards, and to Jane Anson who received a special mention. Jury Awards: Viticulture category: Jancis Robinson MW, Julia Harding MW and Jos Vouillamoz: Wine Grapes. Economy and law category: Steve Charters: The Business of Champagne - A delicate balance. Collective of authors under the supervision ofSteve Charters Special mention: History and literature: Jane Anson: lixirs premiers grands crus classs 1855 Full details here: http://www.oiv.int/oiv/info/enprixOIV To Hugh Johnson on being awarded the 2013 Lifetime Achievement Award by the International Wine Challenge. Hugh received his award during the IWC Awards dinner this year for the first time held in July. And to all CWW members shortlisted for the Louis Roederer International Wine Writers Awards 2013. For the full list of shortlisted entrants, see Other News, page 50. The winners will be announced in London on 10th September.

We are very pleased to welcome the following new members of the Circle: Chuck Byers Chuck is a freelance journalist, writer, author, lecturer, television producer and host. He also acts as a consultant to restaurants and wineries. He has a Diploma in Oenology, Viticulture, Wine Marketing from the University of Guelph. Chuck has been communicating about wine since 1989. His tv/broadcasting credits are: 1990-93 Wine Companions (Rogers Television), 1995-98 Wine Dining (Rogers Television),2009-11 Adventures in Wine Country (Channel 12/CBC),2011-present, Two in a Vineyard (Channel 12/CBC), Star Choice (Bell Pay For View and Bell Fibe). Chuck has written three books: A Taste Of Durham (Alger Press, 1998), A Matter of Taste (1999) and Rendezvous For Dinner (DeSitter Publications, 2006).He is currently working on a revised edition of Rendezvous For Dinner. He owns wine tour company Vintage Ventures. In addition to English, Chuck is a Maltese speaker. 933 Centre Street North, Whitby Ontario Canada L1N 4V2 Tel:905-666-9418

Members who have resigned:

Susie Barrie MW, Andrea Frost (Born Digital prizewinner) Giles Luckett, Kerin OKeefe, Alastair Peebles, Julia Tickridge.
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Round-up of members news

Jamie Goode recorded Jos Vouillamozs excellent CWW seminar on rare grape varieties given at the London

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July 2013

Members news

International Wine Fair. The video can be viewed here: http://www.wineanorak.com/wineblog/wine-science/videothe-rare-varieties-tasting-with-dr-jose-vouillamoz Lauren Johnson-Bell is writing for France Today, as she explains: I have been taken on at France Today (www.francetoday. com) as their new wine columnist. My first issue is the Aug/Sept issue and will cover one of my favourite regions: the Pays Basque... and a couple of other tidbits. I read this magazine regularly whilst living in France and the new publisher wishes to take it to a more international readership. Jeremy Oliver: message from Jeremy concerning jeremyoliver.com: As many of you have observed, there have been some recent significant changes at the web address jeremyoliver. com. Put simply, I am no longer involved with the company that operates the site, Wine Preference Systems. I am not a shareholder of the company and I have no ongoing role as a contributor. The process that has seen my exit from this company has been an amicable one and I wish it well for its future. Wine Preference Systems is entitled to publish the historic content that it published while I was involved in the business, and until late this year is entitled to use jeremyoliver.com as its principal web address. I am currently working with a Melbourne-based group to develop a new site that we expect to launch later this year. This site will feature all my content and reviews, will be updated regularly, and will also feature a number of innovative functions not shared by other sites. I am very much looking forward to this launch, and to renewing my relationships with my online followers.

Julie Buclez has moved to: Westcott Lodge, 22 Lower Mall, Hammersmith, London W6 9DJ Tina Gellie has moved and now asks for post to be sent to her at the office: Decanter, IPC Media, Blue Fin Building, 110 Southwark St, London SE1 0SU Jamie Goode has a new mobile number: 0752 799 2496 Patricia Green has a new email address: patty@grapetaste.com Rasmus Holmgrd has moved to: Ryesgade 30C st.tv. 2200 Copenhagen N, Denmark New email: rh@holmgards.dk Martin Isark has moved to: 62 Hollinwell Avenue, Wollaton, Nottingham NG8 1JZ Quentin Johnson has a new email address: q@quentinjohnson.com Melanie Jones has moved to: Highcroft, Gloucester Road, Edge, Glos GL6 6ND Tel: 01452 812812 Anne Krebiehl has a new email address: anne@anneinvino.com Jenny Mackenzie has a new email address: website@circleofwinewriters.org Laura Lee Madonnahas moved to: 13 Jasmine St, Yountville, CA 94599, USA Angela Reddin has a new website: angelareddin.wordpress.com Patrick Schmitt has moved to: 51 Pathfield Road, London SW16 5NZ Monty Waldin slight amendment to address: Viale Piave, 32 Torrenieri, 53024 Montalcino (SI) Italy New email: montywaldin@gmail.com Peter Wood slight amendment to address: 20 East Street, St Monans, Fife, Scotland KY10 2AT
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Circle event: Chilean organic tasting

The next Circle tasting will be on 9th September at the Naval Club, 38 Hill Street, London W1J 5NS and will feature the wines of Casa Lapostelle. The tasting will start at 11am. Lapostelles winemaker and oenologist, Andrea Leon Iriarte, will take members through the line-up of wines and the focus will beThe organic wines of Lapostolle and their ageing capability. The Lapostolle vineyards represent, in Chile, 9.3% of the total area of organic certified vineyards and 27% of the total area of biodynamic certified vineyards worldwide by Demeter International. According to current data the companys three vineyards are among the six biggest biodynamic vineyards in size in the world. Andrea Leon Iriarte has served as Lapostolles winemaker and oenologist since 2004. She has had a lifelong passion for wine, which has led her to an adventurous and successful career in the industry. Ultimately her career path landed her the opportunity to craft premium Chilean wines with Lapostolle. Full details will be sent out to members shortly.

... and an invitation

Would you like to help out with the Circle of Wine Writers social media or website? If you are Twitter savvy, a Wordpress whizz, an online editor or blogger and might be keen to assist with a few tweets a week and/or ad hoc website content updating, for example the events and visits pages, contact Jenny at website@circleofwinewriters. org. This invitation is open to all members, based anywhere.

Changes of address, etc.

Nicolas Belfrage has new tel/fax: 020 3602 7336

Circle Update

July 2013

CWW trip to Sicily, 3rd - 9th June, 2013

The Circle of Wine Writers trip to Sicily, organised by Stefano Pataro in conjunction with Gran Via, was very comprehensive both in terms of wineries visited and regions covered on the island. We travelled extensively and saw a great deal of the stunning scenery, architecture and historic remains which make Sicily such a fascinating place. We enjoyed a wide range of excellent indigenous wines and local cuisine. Our hosts at the wineries were extremely hospitable and knowledgeable. We learned a great deal about the country, its culture and food and wine traditions. The passion that all the winemakers and winery owners have for their Sicilian wine production was infectious and we all came away from the trip so much better informed, enthusiastic and highly motivated to continue to promote the wines of Sicily. Stefano Pataro, ably assisted by Simona Governanti, made an enormous effort to show us the real Sicily, and we thank them very much for looking after us with minimal fuss and maximum expertise. Hopefully we will be able to work with Stefano in organising another trip to Italy next year. Vivienne Franks Principal photographer: Matt Wilson

Tuesday 4th June: Angela Lloyd finds the tasting of DOC Etna wines an appetite-whetting introduction
With Led Zepplins Stairway to Heaven running through my head, we climbed the steep and winding road through Castiglione del Sicilia to Castello Lauria, home of Eastern Sicilys regional enoteca. The image of Zepplins famous song could have had something to do with the views of Mount Etna, whose imposing presence dominated at every twist and turn. It could also have been in anticipation of the first tasting of our seven-day journey through Sicily, comprising an overview of the Etna DOC via a selection of wines from six different producers.

Gambino, Feudo Cavaliere, Passopisciaro, Terre dellEtna, Vivera and Pietradolce laid out 19 wines covering the major indigenous grape varieties of the area: Catarratto and Carricante for whites with Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio making up the reds. After an official welcome from the deputy mayor, Signor Stagnitti, it was a question of help yourself for the next one and a half hours. The whites, generally, were more consistent than reds, Carricante marked by appealing honey, orange citrus perfume, with assertive yet balanced freshness lending form and length to the wines juicy succulence. No varietal Carricante was offered, but Gambinos FeudO Bianco 2012 Inzolia-Catarratto blend intrigued with its expressive wild
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scrub and lime-leaf aromas, its richness of flavour cut by a refreshing yet balanced acid. If the reds were less consistent, Nerello Mascaleses versatility and charms were evident in Terre dellEtnas Amore e Psiche 2011 varietal version made in a light, juicy, fresh and easy-drinking style, which illustrated the grapes cherry blossom and red cherry fragrance. Passopisciaros 2011 Nerello Mascalese was altogether more serious, with wonderfully intoxicating cherry perfume, concentration and structure that promises even more pleasure in a few years. I had quickly found my new favourite red variety in this Etna speciality! A word of warning about ageing: we tasted several older wines, reds especially, as the trip progressed; many heading

Circle Update

July 2013

towards seven to eight years old were beginning to oxidise and head downhill. Todays better winemaking will probably see this situation improve, but, for now, drink younger rather than older is probably the best advice. Our appetite whetted, we wended our way down from the castello to our bus, in anticipation of pleasurable and varied tastings of well-known and lesser-known grapes in the days ahead.

Tuesday 4th June continued: Amanda Barnes discovers that past and present meet at Firriatos Tenuta Cavanera Etnea
As one of the older wine regions in the world, Sicily is entrenched in history. Visiting the wineries of the island (or continent as some Sicilian marketing bods like to exaggeratedly call it) you expect to see a fair bit of history and tradition sprinkled among the hillsides. Firriatos Tenuta Cavanera Etnea, snuggled into a hillside on the slopes of Etna volcano, is one of those wineries where you can get a feel for the long history of winemaking combined with modernity. A historic farmhouse and wine press is encased in a modern shell and preserves the story of traditional winemaking while also telling the tale of the modern, commercial approach. We visited the winery in time for lunch and were greeting with an impressive spread of Sicilian antipasti: caponata, marinated local mushrooms, lemon-infused artichokes, and local cheeses and cured meats to mention just a few. A breezy afternoon (typical of Etna, and ideal for cooling off the vineyards and volcanic soil) was perfect for lunch under the mature trees with a glass or two of the bubbly Firriato produces on the other side of the island. After a tour in the vines looking at the soil profiles, we moved into the new/old winery for an extensive tasting of native and international varieties from both Etna and Firriatos other vineyards in the Trapani region. It was a diverse tasting with some vertical line-ups and a great overview of what this island has traditionally made over the centuries and what it will continue to make in the future. Tenuta Cavanera Etnea is an insight into the exciting dichotomy of Sicily: the old and historical native to the island with the new and international outlook, harmonising in the present.
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A circle of wine writers enjoying lunch at Firriato, inside the tasting room, and returning from the vineyard tour.

Circle Update

July 2013

CWW in Sicily

Tuesday 4th June continued: Andrew Barrow is rewarded with post-prandial inspiration at Cottanera
Its an oft-heard story. Sons of the winery founder take over, as the olduns retire, with grand thoughts of revival and reinvention. At Cottanera, founded by Francesco Cambria in the mid 1960s, brothers Enzo and Guglielmo (who died in 2008) took on the Etna-based estate in 1990. But the story continues with the newest generation taking a role in the estates development and continuation. At the tasting for CWW members, held at the pink-plastered winery, sons and daughters from across the generations chatted, poured the wines and answered our questions with Italian verve and panache. It is always tricky for hosts and tasters to engage thoughts and tastebuds post-lunch. A particularly sapid meal and morning tasting at Firriato, left me, at least, rather dozy and disengaged. A vote then for the wines, as they certainly focused ones thoughts, inspired and re-engaged the palate. The red Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio and Nero dAvola and the white Inzolia and Carricante are the local Sicilian grapes grown on the estates 55 hectares. These are joined by the more familiar Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. To be offered a Mondeuse (Cottanera LArdenza 2006) amongst these varieties came as a surprise. We didnt plan to plant Mondeuse it just happened. Something different is an attraction to some people. We try to get a style, have the wines not relying on the muscles but on the flavours with complexity, always pursuing the freshness of fruit and acidity. With our new oenologist, from the 2004 vintage, our style changed from big and impressive to what we have now We try to get easy, drinkable wines always fresh, try to produce wines with a longer life. And that style, relying on a natural balance and freshness, comes into play with the wine-bar-style wines of Barbazzale Bianco and Barbazzale Rosso. Young vines,

freshness of the fruit, rounded, fruity, low soft tannins, impact, not cooked fruit, as Enzo explained the rosso version. The red is a 80/20% split of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio. The delusion that these two forms of Nerello were practically one and the same was dispelled as Enzo explained they were two completely different varieties, easy to tell apart from the shape of the leaves. Cappuccio gives great colour, low tannins and specific aromas, but above all its used for the colour. Mascalese has lighter colour but greater structure and good tannins. The lemon-and-grapefruit-flavoured white is a mix of Inzolia and Viogner, fresh, young and lively. Barbazzale, incidentally, translates as goats beard. At the other end of the quality/price scale is the estates flagship wine Etnarosso. Through the different vintages tasted (2005, 2007, 200, 2010) the blend remained consistent, with 90% Nerello Mascalese and 10% Nerello Cappuccio. There is no clonal selection of Nerello Mascalese in the vineyard. So nearing harvest you can taste the difference between neighbouring vines some watery, next plant along perfectly ripe. So to reach ever higher levels of quality Cottanera is engaged in making its own clonal selections. Cuttings are made from the best vines to make its own, unique, selections. But it is a 20-year-plus project. If you can locate a bottle of the Etnarosso 2007 you are in for a treat as this offers a superb combination of structure and balance now, with a little age and from one of the better vintages. But even the latest release, the 2010, offers a fine mouthful with lovely textured tannins. I managed to extract a drinking sample from Mariangela Cambria of the 2010, just to ensure a fully revived palate you understand, before we were rounded up, shown the under renovation winemaking facilities and piled back on the coach
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The Cottanera winery and third-generation daughter Mariangela Cambria. Photos by Andrew Barrow.

Circle Update

July 2013

CWW in Sicily

Sicilian village with Etna volcano in the background.

Tuesday 4th June continued: Jochen Erler enjoys the high-class wines of Tenuta di Fessina
The unusual diversity of wineries visited on our trip was accentuated by Tenuta di Fessina. First of all, it differed from all the other wineries by its size. With its 13 ha of vineyards, Fessina was the smallest winery visited. Like most of the other wineries, its vineyards and its cellars were spread all over the island. We visited Fessinas winery in Rovittello near Firriado in the Etna region. There are 7 ha of vineyards adjacent to this cellar. Another important feature was that all Fessina wines have so far been made without the use of barrique. Thanks to the use of stainless steel and big traditional wooden casks, the wines can express their full varietal character. Nevertheless, there were three barriques in the cellar filled

with Fessinas Musmeci, a traditional blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio.We were told by Diletta, the well-informed PR representative of Fessina, that this wine was used only for adjustments in the making of the final Musmeci cuve. The most striking feature of Fessina winery is its history of only six years. It was created in 2007 by two winemakers from mainland Italy, Silvia Maestrelli from Tuscany and Federico Curtaz from Piemonte, who has been working at the famous Gaia winery. They sought out the best amongst the many abandoned vineyards in Sicily and bought them. They have maintained the original bush plantation of vines, some almost 100 years old, and treat them organically. In their winery in Rovittello, they also preserved the old winemaking installations, which will become a showcase for wine tourists. The few rooms above the old cellar have been carefully restored to their old beauty. Here we had our
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tasting session, after a short visit to the nearby vineyard where Diletta explained the training and pruning of the vines. All the vines here grow on a powdery soil of pure volcanic ash. Having seen the old vineyards, the brand new equipment and the small tanks, and taking into account the high reputation of Gaia, my expectations for the tasting were high. And indeed, the old saying small is beautiful was proven right. The wines of this boutique winery were absolute class. The white Puddara 2011, barrel-fermented Carricantefrom a vineyard planted further away in 1950, has rich fruitiness and soft tannins. It is a good aperitif wine. However, its label is not consumer friendly, The designer was carried away with artistic considerations to the detriment of the labels readability. Fessinas Nero dAvola comes from the Val di Noto, an area traditional for this grape variety. It is labelled Ero. We tasted the 2011 vintage of pleasant freshness, dense fruit aromas and a perfect balance of acidity and tannins, but without the heaviness ofmany other barrique-treated Nero dAvolas made often from overripe fruit. Now to the wines made from grapes grown in Rovittello. Here, Fessina makes two versions of the traditional red blend of Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, both vinified in stainless steel. The first, Erse 2010, was elegant and of great finesse, called by the producer an infinitely feminine wine. The grapes come from a vineyard planted in 1950. Maceration on the skins is rather short for this wine. The second was made under the label Musmeci. Its grapes are grown on vines planted in 1920 and have been, until recently, taken care of by Mr Musmeci. For this wine maceration is a bit longer, but more important it is left for 20 months in large wooden casks. We tasted the 2007 and 2008 vintages, the latter with more length thanks to a stronger expression of its tannins. Today I infinitely prefer the Erse, but in two years or so perhaps the Musmeci. Our visit at Fessina ended with a delicious lunch prepared in the tiny kitchen of the building by a team of three ladies. We applauded them wholeheartedly.

Circle Update

July 2013

CWW in Sicily

Wednesday 5th June: Keith Grainger loses his fear of Mount Etna thanks to Benanti
There are places you visit for the first time and immediately sense the power of nature, of the earth and its forces, and how the people who live and work there are woven into the very fabric of the place. Such is the feeling when we arrive at Cantina Benanti at Viagrande on the south-eastern side of Etna. I wonder just what Is that cloud making the summit? Should we beware? The mountain is the highest active volcano in Europe, two and a half times the height of Vesuvius, and I am aware that it is in an almost continuous state of activity with eruptions not just from the high cones but also from the flanks, from which there have been four eruptions since the year 2000. A shiver goes down my spine as I recall reading about the great eruption which began on 11th March 1669 and destroyed ten villages on the southern flank, with on 15th April the lava flow even reaching the walls of the city of Catania, which re-routed it into the sea. In 1928 the village of Mascali was almost completely destroyed by an eruption from the north-eastern flank. My mood is instantly lifted when we are greeted by the highly energetic Benanti twins, Antonio and Salvino They were born just 10 minutes apart but the differences between them are great enough to give rise to an ideal working relationship. Antonio explains that when the estate was founded by their pharmaceutical-entrepreneur father Giuseppe in 1988 there were no high-quality Etna wines. Having taken advice from professors of oenology from Asti, Burgundy and Sicily they began to plant, initially on the northern slopes. We sip a glass of Noblesse a delightfully crisp and refreshing metodo classico based on Carricante, from 80-year-old vines planted on the eastern and northern slopes at an altitude between 950 and 1,200 metres. The first fermentation takes place part in stainless steel tanks and part in barriques, and the vins clairs stay on primary lees until bottling in spring. Antonio explains that on Etna the Carricante is planted

The Benanti twins, Salvino, left, and Antonio. mostly on the eastern slopes, which have the highest level of rainfall, up to 11 times that of the rest of Sicily. The plantings on the southern and northern slopes (there are no vines on the western side) are of red varieties, with Nerello Mascalese accounting for perhaps 90% of the vines. Etna makes just 1.5- 2% of Sicilys production. The twins are in no doubt that their father was the pioneer of quality wines on Etna and that whilst in the past the company has used international varieties the twins are now totally committed to local grapes for their Etna wines, having sold off vineyards planted with non-indigenous varieties. We never mention the word Sicily Etna has nothing
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to do with Sicily, Antonio expounds. These are mountain wines, and can perhaps be compared with Friuli or Austria. Whilst we are proud to be Sicilian we are prouder to be Etnian. Etna is one of the worlds great wines, but these are slow wines and longevity builds the expression. Salvino reinforces this: We remain true to Etna, using local varieties and through vilification that is methodical yet passive. We walk up into the vineyards. The earth beneath our feet is crumbly black and the light acrid dust kicked up makes me cough and sneeze. I wonder if the lungs of the locals contain a couple of inches if this heavy-mineral-rich volcanic debris, and if a glass or two of Carricante is the ideal medicine for stopping that throaty cough that is already

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evident. Plantings here are dense 8,000-9,000 vines per hectare and the traditional free-standing bush (albarello) training is used. The yield is just 600-800 grams per vine. I ask if in such freely draining soils the vines ever suffer from hydric stress, and Antonio explains that the roots are very deep and it isnt a problem. Many of the vineyards are ungrafted as phylloxera does not survive in these soils. Although there are lots of abandoned vineyards on Etna, giving plenty of potential for expansion, Salvino explains that with a current production figure of c.100,000 bottles they envisage they will not expand beyond a ceiling of 160-180,000 bottles. There is no talk of market share, or of philosophy, and I feel moved to be in the company of people so committed to the concept of wines having a sense of place. Benanti does have holdings in other parts of the island, where the growing conditions are very different to Etna. In the arid climate and clayey soils of Pachino at the southeastern tip of Sicily, Nero dAvola is grown this variety seems to like drought conditions. The Benanti Il Drappo is 100% Nero dAvola, and this variety is the backbone of Magora, which also contains a dash of Syrah, Tannat and Petit Verdot. The delightful passito Il Musico is produced from Moscato grapes also grown in this area. A very different passito, Coste Di Mueggen, is made from Zibibbo on the island of Pantelleria. Our formal tasting (I dont think the word formality can really be used in the Benantis company) focused on the Etna wines. The 2009 Pietramarina, 100% Carricante, got the proceedings off to a delightful start with citrus bloom on the nose and a palate of fresh apple overlaid with almonds. At 12.5% the alcohol was in perfect balance. The reds were all distinctive and exuded that sense of place. I will just remark on my two favourites. The 2006 Il Monovitigno, 100% Nerello Cappuccio (a variety that was until recently facing extinction), showed a mlange of cherry and red fruits together with violets on the nose and a rich palate of soaked berries, shrouded in silky tannins The 2000 vintage of Serra Della Contessa, from the vineyards we had just walked at Via Grande, exuded delightful wild

berry tones overlaid with tertiary notes of cedar and tobacco. And of course to lunch where our sense of place became deep rooted as the wines were married to delightful dishes prepared in the Benanti kitchen. And now Etna is less foreboding, almost serene, and I really dont want to leave. But I can still have the wines. (Benanti is distributed un UK by Les Caves de Pyrne.)

Ancient vine at Benanti and, right, green harvesting at the estate.

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CWW in Sicily

Wednesday 5th June continued: Angela Lloyd encounters a project well worth watching at Valle dellAcate
For six generations, the Jacono family have farmed at Valle dellAcate, a property located in the Vittoria province, along Sicilys south-east coast. The energetic and beautiful Gaetana Jacono represents the current generation running the family business. From the number of women who hosted us during the trip, it is obvious they are a force in Sicilian wine! Francesco Ferreri, who shared hosting duties, is not only responsible for looking after the estates 100 hectares

of vineyard, but is also president of the Consorzio of Sicilys only DOCG, Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Unfortunately, the only one we tasted was the 2010 from Valle dellAcate, a blend of 70% Nero dAvola, 30% Frappato. After a quick look at some soon-to-be-flowering Frappato vines, we walked through the old wine cellar, replete with lagare-like concrete fermentation troughs, basket presses, demi-johns, farming instruments and photos of times past, before descending to what had been the equally cathedrallike barrel cellar below its immense dimensions demanded one spoke in a whisper! The theme Francesco and Gaetana had chosen to present focused on their new project: seven soils, seven

different wines. To more easily inform us about the soils, each type had been individually layered in a large glass tube and by the side of each was the wine best expressed from that soil (pictured on next page). We started with sandy soil, where the vineyard is around 250 metres from the sea. Both Insolia and Grillo grow here; Insolia 2012, herby, creamy notes, was powerful, rich with balanced freshness, while Zagra 2012, 100% Grillo, was much lighter and fresher in texture with clean greengage and white flower aromas. Chardonnay does best on what Francesco describes as poor soil: Bidis 2011, which includes a little Insolia (Gaetanas father disapproved of Chardonnay!) is designed, as are the other international grape varieties tasted during the trip, to encourage wine lovers to try Sicilian wines. Full in colour, with prominent oak aromas and rich creamy banana flavours, it typified an international style we found among most Chardonnays tasted Dark, compact soil with white rocks in the river valley provides Frappato with perfume and freshness; both were evident in Il Frappato 2012, which had a young, beaujolaislike juicy raspberries freshness. Uncomplicated, for youthful quaffing. Soft sandy soil comes in both dark and light types; the former favoured by Nero dAvola, the latter by Frappato, designed to lend power in Cerasuolo di Vittoria. Cerasuolo is the Sicilian word for cherry; the 2010 Cerasuolo di Vittoria blend of 70% Nero dAvola, 30% Frappato lived up to this name with its cherry fragrance. More refined than straight Nero dAvola, it was juicy with a light texture and good freshness, if lacking the depth one might expect from this sole DOCG. Without a few more examples, it was difficult to know whether this was typical of its origin, but it left us wondering if Cerasuolo di Vittoria deserves DOCG status, so surely do Etnas Nerello Mascaleses. A black, compact soil called Il Moro is where Nero dAvola allows for more extraction yet also a velvety texture

Tasting at Valle dellAcate.

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when unoaked. Il Moro 2010 (the wine takes the name of the soil) is pure Nero dAvola. A ripe wine with powerful notes of sage and liquorice, its fruit remained cloaked in the firm grip of the varietys characteristic somewhat rustic tannins. These should benefit from a few years ageing. Syrah does best on light, calcareous rocks, around 150 metres from the sea. Rusciano, 100% Syrah, aged in 500-litre barrels, had pleasant varietal dark red berry and cocoa aromas and supple mouthfeel complemented by gentle tannins. Very drinkable and the type of youthful Syrah found worldwide these days. Finally, the flagship, Tan, named after Gaetanas grandmother, combines 85% Nero dAvola with 15% Syrah, the two co-fermented, but using the juice of Syrah only (colour had been extracted during a cold soak). This pairing forged good complexity with an array of spice, black cherries and liquorice; powerfully built with good balance between solid structure and dense texture with the added dimension of a year in new French oak, its a wine that needs food to show at its best. A further year or two should also be of benefit. This seven soils, seven wines project is fairly new, as is the move to organic viticulture, so progress towards the more elegant, fresh style of wine that is Gaetanas and Francescos goal will be worth watching with interest.

Thursday 6th June Fredrik Schelin likes the entry-level wines at the co-operative CVA Canicatt
When arriving for this visit we met the chef winemaker in the vineyards just below the temple and we had a tasting of their new project. Diodoros 2012 was a barrel sample. I thought that the wine was really nicely structured with cherries, plum, soft tannins and balanced acid. It was a wine with good potential. While I think is the plan is to keep this fruity, fresh, nice wine in the barrels for some time to come before bottling,

I think it should be in bottle now before it gets over-oaked. From the tasting I really enjoyed the entry-level range, with nice fruitiness and clean fresh flavours. The visit was really good and the buffet lunch in the park was excellent. Factsheet provided by CVA Canicatt In the heart of Agrigentos countryside lie lands with an ancient viticultural history, where countless rows of vineyards draw scenic geometries in the landscape. These magic lands are the lands of Nero dAvola, and find their best expressions in the wines of CVA Canicatt. Since 1969, over 480 vignerons united by their love for these lands have pooled their efforts in CVA Canicatt, a
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Wine with relevant soil samples at Valle dellAcate, with Gaetana Jacono explaining them.

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solid entrepreneurial project oriented towards the most demanding international markets. For over 40 years CVA Canicatt has been redefining the concept of viticultural quality, through important investments in technology and management. The work of every single vigneron is driven by a shared philosophy, and projected towards the valorisation of the agricultural and historical traits of one of Sicilys most versed viticultural areas; the results of this passionate work can be found in every one of CVA Canicatts labels. The firms vignerons cultivate over 1000 ha of vineyards, each with unique pedoclimatic conditions and placed in a very prestigious historical and cultural context. The flag-bearer of this context is Diodoros: a wine which comes to life in a vineyard below the Temple of Juno, as part of a project for the valorisation of the Valley of the Temples historical vineyards, undertaken with the authority for this archaeological site. Cultivated grape varieties: Nero dAvola, Nerello Cappuccio, Nerello Mascalese, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Cataratto, Grillo, Inzolia and Chardonnay. Total bottles produced: 900,000. Export quota: 60%. Principal export markets: USA, Brazil, Germany, Switzerland, United Kingdom, Japan, Canada and China. Tasting in an ancient fish pond at CVA Canicatt.
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Thursday 6th June continued: Susan Hulme reports that, as always, something new is happening at Planeta
Every time I visit Planeta there is something new happening. A dynamic attitude and the art of never standing still have taken it from a company that planted its own vineyards only in the mid-1980s to becoming one of Sicilys leading lights. On this, my thirdvisit in the last four years, several things impressed me. For a start, there are some exciting new wines from the Etna vineyards, in particular an innovative twist on the characterful white grape Carricante, to which Planeta has added a touch of Riesling. Then there are the newest plantings at Capo Milazzo near Messina where, with the help of Italian grape variety specialist Professor Atillo Scienza, the company is rediscovering some historic varieties, such as Nocera. And the latest tourist development at La Foresteria really takes its wine tourism proposition to a new level. Planeta has continued to reinvent itself: from a start as Sicilian grape growers, to the creation of hugely successful global brands with international varieties such as the Planeta Chardonnay, it is now investing even more in native Sicilian varieties. But Planeta has worked hard to get where it is today. The family have been farmers and grape growers in the Menfi area since the fifteenth century. More recently, it was our host Francesca Planetas grandfather, who in 1958, along with other grape growers, established Settesoli, Sicilys biggest co-operative. Settesoli has approximately 1,200 members and owns 6,000 ha of vines. The key brands are well known: Mandrarossa in the on trade and Inycon in the off trade have worldwide distribution. Francescas father, Diego Planeta, became president of Settesoli in 1973 when he was just 32 and retired only two years ago. All that time and experience as the head of Sicilys most powerful wine co-operative was not wasted on Diego, who had not forgotten the value of owning vineyards in the right place when it came to creating Planetas own family brand. During the visit, Francesca gave us a telling snapshot

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of the companys history. She explained that her father was always keen to plant more native Sicilian grape varieties because he had a vision for the future, but 20 years ago as a young woman she had to travel the world promoting the wines. She remembers trying to sell Sicilian wines, when after tasting examples of native Sicilian grape varieties, the customer would always say, Thats fine, now wheres your Chardonnay? She remembers almost crying and pleading with her father to plant more Chardonnay. Now things have come full circle: our other host, Patricia Toth, a young Hungarian who is one of six Planeta winemakers, says that although the famousPlaneta Chardonnay is the main entry to the market and a lot of care is taken with it and the other international varieties, they are now experimenting a lot and rediscovering traditional native varieties. Our visit was at Dispensa in Menfi, the hub of the Planeta empire. Having surprised even ourselves by arriving early, we stood around a while in the peacefully exotic surroundings As temperatures soared into the 30s we could feel some of the searing intensity that Sicily gets, especially in these hot southern coastal areas Montalbano country. Dispensa (161 ha) is one of six key areas where Planeta owns vineyards and has a winery. There are holdings at Sambuca di Sicilia (93 ha) also near Menfi, Vittoria (34 ha), Noto (51 ha) near Siracusa in the south east, Castiglione Di Sicilia (16 ha) on Etna and Capo Milazzo (8 ha) near Messina. Each Planeta estate specialises in the local varieties traditional to its area as well as some international varieties. However, Dispensa and the Menfi area are Planetas home ground and the heart of production where the bread-and-butter entry-level brands, La Segreta Bianco, Ros and Rosso, and Planeta Chardonnay are crafted. Planeta has 363 ha in total and the winemakers include Alessio Planeta, Diegos nephew, who works with Francesca and Santi Planeta to run the business nowadays. We had a brief tour of the cellar which is dedicated to the Segreta brand. Here more than 2 million bottles in total are produced, including 600,000 of Segreta Bianco and 500,000 of Segreta Rosso. Significantly, 50% of the entrylevel big brands are made from native grape varieties, so

Francesca Planeta, and the tasting mat.

marketing native Sicilian varieties has always been part of the companys aspirations. It now has 19 native Sicilian varieties planted in various locations and is working closely with Professor Scienza, a leading Italian expert in the DNA of native Sicilian grape varieties, to identify the best terroir for them. On a Master of Wine trip to Sicily last year, Professor Scienza had dropped a viticultural bombshell on us by saying that the Sicilian variety Nerello Mascalese was in fact Sangiovese and Nerello Capuccio was Carignan, but several producers on this trip were reluctant to acknowledge or accept that, perhaps wanting to retain the uniquely Sicilian identity of these varieties. In any case the subject was not raised at Planeta this time. I found myself wondering what the key to Planetas phenomenal success is. It has bought up vineyards strategically in Sicilys key DOCs in order to produce an array of different wines that reflect Sicilian terroir in all its richness. This gives the company a strong claim to being a producer of terroir wines. Yet it has listened to the market when the market demanded Chardonnay, Planeta produced a worldclass Chardonnay. The successful Segreta range attests to an understanding of the importance of brands. And Planeta is one of the few leading wine producers on Sicily who truly understand how to benefit from wine tourism its La Foresteria resort is a beautiful and relaxing place to stay with the added benefits of cookery courses, winery tours and trips to local temples. Then of course there is the enigmatically powerful Diego Planeta, head of the family and the driving force behind the companys constant, almost restless desire for innovation. A line from the Thom Gunn poem On the Move comes to mind, One is always nearer by not keeping still.

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CWW in Sicily

In a small but significant way, Planetas level of enterprise and market nous is reflected in the unusual tasting sheets it provides large-scale paper maps of Sicily, indicating Planetas six main vineyard locations; the circles where the wines are placed are stamped with the details of each wine. Not only is this a clear and useful tool for the tasters but it also firmly imprints in the mind the nature and extent of Planetas holdings. As to the tasting itself, we tasted 14 wines from across all six estates. All were fresh, well made and attractive and some were really stunning. These are a handful that stood out for me: Eruzione 1614 Carricante 2012 DOC Sicilia. 95% Carricante and 5% Riesling. Not yet DOC Etna because the grapes are grown at a higher altitude and outside the officially allowed zone, but things may change as the Etna DOC evolves. The star of the tasting for me. Mid-lemon, slight heady, lemon oil notes with delicate white flowers on the nose. On the palate it opens a little broad, round and soft with an impression of honey and white flowers, but this is quickly contrasted by a laser-like focus of steely lemon and mineral notes. The dab of Riesling makes for a richer mid-palate and refines the already high acidity and tautness of Carricante. Beautiful wine, still young and not fully formed crystal clear and pristine. Cometa 2011 DOC Sicilia. The first Cometa was bottled in 2000 but for the first two years the grape variety was kept secret as Fiano was not allowed officially in the DOC or IGT. The example I tasted here was much better than any I had previously tried in the UK. The wine is kept on fine lees until February after harvesting in September. No oak. Mid-lemon, green-toned. White peach and melon aromas with a slice of orange zest on the nose. Very clean and pure flavours, honeydew melon, creamy texture, balancing fresh acidity, no bitterness, medium to full-bodied. Creamy, soft, succulent and fresh, very enjoyable. Eruzione 1614 Nerello Mascalese 2011 IGT Sicilia. Like its sister white this is not allowed in the Etna DOC because it is outside the official zone. Vines are from 2008-2009 but Planeta has now found a corner of 70-year-old vines

so things may change. This wine is currently quite a light and delicate version of what it may become. Its one to watch. Light ruby Pinot Noir-like colour, nose bit quiet with some light floral red fruits. Light weight, delicate red fruits. I liked the very gentle handling of tannins, which with Nerello Mascalese can easily get a bit rustic around the edges. Delicate Pinot Noir-like flavours, red fruits, but needs more concentration and fatness on the palate. Santa Cecilia 2009 DOC Noto. 100% Nero dAvola from Noto and very near to the town of Avola, where this variety originates. The upper level of soils here are very chalky, as in Champagne. A local yeast MB21; no new oak. Dark ruby, first impression on the nose is dried roses. Sweet round attack followed by juicy acidity and a long fresh finish. Very smooth, harmonious and well balanced with plum, bitter cherry, dark chocolate and sage flavours. Fine, gravelly texture tannins complete the picture. Nicely handled, understated and subtle. Passito di Noto 2011 DOC Noto. 100% Moscato Bianco, 180 g/l residual sugar and 9.5% alcohol. Picked mid-August, followed by 40 days of open-air drying, then a long, slow, cool fermentation for 120 days! Bright green gold, delicate aromatics, lemon Turkish delight, spice and honey on the nose. Same flavours follow through on palate but with pink grapefruit and crystallised lemon peel too, cut with lively, acidity on the finish.

to dinner and were hardly ever back in our rooms before 11pm. Now I know touring vineyards isnt hard physical work, but you do have to at least try to stay on the ball and to focus on the visits that have been arranged and truthfully it is sometimes hard to stay focused after four winery visits, tastings and a long lunch. Such was the splendour of the landscape that we saw in Sicily, though, that I really did not find that a problem at all, and our visit to the Enoteca Strade del Vino Terre Sicane was a real treat as it gave us a little glimpse of Menfi, which seemed a very attractive and real Sicilian town. We were taken to the vinoteca straight from having visited Planeta and I was thrilled to notice that the beautiful

Thursday 6th June continued: Quentin Sadler discovers Menfi a hidden corner of Sicily and the Enoteca Strade del Vino Terre Sicane
Being on a CWW trip is a real privilege that allows us to visit places that we would probably otherwise miss, and on the trip to Sicily I was constantly filled with wonder at what we saw and experienced. I know many people imagine our trips as some sort of free holiday, but that is very far from the case. We were usually on the coach by 8am and kept going right through
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Dinner at Planetas Ulmo Estate, fine ending to a fascinating day in Menfi.

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building was actually called the Casa Planeta and had been one of the Planeta family homes in the nineteenth century. Nowadays, though, it serves as the hub for the local wine and restaurant industry. The services include wine tasting and product knowledge courses not just wine either, as beer, chocolate, bread, salami, honey, pasta and rice are covered as well. First off we enjoyed a little breather in the peaceful courtyard before going inside to the tasting room to try wines from six local producers. Azienda Agricola di Prima, Azienda Agricola di Montalbano, Cantine de Gregorio, Cantine Settesoli, Lanzara and Entellano are all interesting producers who make wines in the Menfi area from a wide array of grapes. Traditionally the area produced small amounts of Catarratto, Trebbiano, Inzolia and Grillo for local consumption. Recent years have seen a massive expansion in grape growing and diversification of wine styles and today Nero dAvola is the speciality grape with Chardonnay, Merlot, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon providing support either on their own or in blends with the Sicilian varieties. Nero dAvola and Syrah blends seem very popular here, as do Inzolia and Chardonnay blends, and we tasted quite a few of these combinations. Rather excitingly Cantine Settesoli even produced a palatable Fiano and Chenin Blanc blend, a supple Nero dAvola-Cabernet Franc and even a pure Petit Verdot. Cantine de Gregorio, though, gave us perhaps the biggest thrill of the tasting with its 2012 Bianco di San Lorenzo which is a blend of Incrocio Manzoni and Inzolia. Professor Luigi Manzoni was in charge of Italys oldest school of oenology, in Conegliano, during the 1930s and he crossed many different grapes to create new varieties which are collectively known as the Incrocio Manzoni. The one used in this wine was more correctly called Manzoni Bianco, or Incrocio Manzoni 6.0.13, and is a cross of Riesling and Pinot Blanc. This was a great opportunity to taste a wide range of wines from an unusual area and so helped to bring this relatively hidden corner of Sicily to our attention.

Friday 7th June: Miyoko Stevenson appreciates the detail at Feudo Arancio
Having left Resort il Vigneto, the second-day visit in Sambuca di Sicilia started with a visit to Feudo Arancio, whose estate building is located on top of a gentle hill surrounded by vast vineyards. The building is a sort of a big spacious Roman villa: very impressive. We were welcomed at the entrance by Andrea Pizzo, Gruppo Mezzacoronas PR director. In front of the building with a panoramic view of the huge vineyards, Andrea introduced us to the Arancio estate. Although it was established in 1904 as a traditional estate, it was almost reborn in 2001 with the passionate mission of producing high-quality wines attractive to both the Italian and International markets. The group erected the new estate building and replanted the vineyards, with vast investment, optimising natural conditions and efficiently using natural resources, at the same time limiting the environmental impact and preserving regional resources. The new winery is completely equipped with high-tech modern facilities.
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From this time the company applied green management, respecting the surrounding environment by limiting use of chemical treatments as much as possible, recycling all plant waste as fertiliser, reducing the amount of commercial fertiliser used in the field, etc. It invested in the installation of solar panels to produce hot water for the cleaning and sterilisation of the winery, and photoelectric panels that

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provide 80% of the electricity needed. Conversely, in order to maintain a cool temperature in the winery, half of the winery is constructed below ground level to take advantage of the natural cooling effect of the earth. As a result, in 2002 it was the first Italian winery to receive the Eco-Management and Audit System certificate. Feudo Arancio has two estates; the other is in Acate (Regusa) in south east Sicily totalling 690 ha and planted with both local (Nero dAvola, Grillo, Inzolia) and international varieties. The company aims to produce high quality, varietal wines at ex-cellar prices between 4 and 10 wines that express the Sicilian terroir. The total annual production is 5 million bottles, of which 80% is for export. Main export markets are USA, Germany and Japan plus 48 other countries. We tasted seven wines, and Maurizio Maurizi, one of Feudo Arancios two winemakers, explained each to us. Inzolia 2012 (entry level). The Inzolia vine prefers hot and windy climates and sandy soil, when it can provide elegant wines. It has big berries and big bunches. Inzolia is harvested in the first week of September in order to keep its acidity. It is pressed very gently at 0.3 bar, fermented at 18oC for 12 days, refined on its lees for four months, filtered, stabilised and bottled. The wine is pale yellow, clean and of mid intensity, redolent of fresh citrus fruit and green apples with a hint of apricot, with 13% alc. Grillo 2012 (entry level). Grillo is the most-planted white varietal in Sicily and was historically used to make Marsala. FAs Grillo clone has smaller bunches than common Grillo and can produce higher-quality wine. This clone was planted in sandy soils in sunny areas. As the ripe grapes easily lose their acidity, they are harvested at night, kept chilled, and fermented at 17.5oC for 10 days. The must is refined on its lees for five months, carefully protected from oxygen. The wine has pale lemon colour, clean and fresh nose, mid acidity and a fresh pear and pineapple fruit character with a buttery texture; 13% alc. Balanced and harmonious. The label for these two wines evokes Arabic arts and crafts, expressing Sicilys historical background when Regusa was occupied by the Arabs some 1300 years ago.

The estate name is prominent: Feudo means land in English and Arancio is one of Sicilys names for oranges. Dalila 2012. A blend of 80% Grillo and 20% Viognier. After harvesting in mid-September, the Grillo bunches are destemmed and 70% of the grapes are soft pressed. The other 30% undergo maceration on the skins for 12 hours at 10oC, decantation of the must at 12oC for 24 hours. Addition of selected yeasts and fermentation at a controlled temperature of 16oC for 10 days followed by maturation in stainless steel. The Viognier is harvested in the first week of September, destemmed and soft pressed, decanted at 12oC for 24 hours, selected yeasts are added and it is fermented in three-year-old barriques with light toasting, then matured in oak for eight months with periodic batonnage. The wine was very impressive. It has the freshness of Grillo and the roundness and softness of Viognier. The colour is deeper than the first two wines, it has beautiful nose of lychee, lemon, white and yellow flowers, a good balance and structure with mid+ intensity on the palate and a long finish. Nero dAvola 2011. Carefully produced by avoiding oxygen. Intense ruby colour, and intense pure red berries,

Roof tiles, typical in Sicilian villages

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cherry and pomegranate on the nose, mid acidity and mid body, with generous red berries with soft tannin. Aromatic and elegant. Cantadoro 2009. 80% Nero dAvola and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon. Nero dAvola is fermented using selected yeasts at 24-25oC for 14-16 days, malolactic fermentation using selected bacteria, maturation for 12 months in two-yearold lightly toasted French barriques. Cabernet Sauvignon is fermented and macerated using selected yeasts at 2628oC for 16-18 days, malolactic fermentation with selected bacteria, matured for 12 months in three-year-old medium toasted French barriques. It has more body and depth than the previous wine. Deep colour, very aromatic with red berries and black berries with hint of liquorice and tobacco. Rich and elegant. Hedonis 2007. This, FAs top red wine, carries the name of the god of pleasure and is a blend of Nero dAvola and Syrah, fermented separately at 25-27oC. The wine is then blended and aged in new French oak barriques for 16 months with refinement in the bottle for a minimum six months. An intense ruby colour with hint of violet. Complex and sweet nose of ripe cherries and wild berries with hint of coffee and chocolate. Rich and full-bodied yet soft tannin with concentrated fruit. In order not to extract excess tannin from Syrah, the skins are removed during fermentation, and fermentation is completed without skin. Hekate Passito 2010. 50% Moscato, 50% Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Viognier, etc. Hekate means god of youth. Ripe grapes are picked and hung on training wires, to undergo a natural withering process of about four to six weeks. Wind and the suns heat are essential to create sweetness and flavour. By the end of September/beginning of October the grapes are completely dried out, and are then pressed, fermented in stainless steel tanks for 7-8 months and aged in bottle for four months. The wine has golden colour, lowish acidity, concentrated white peach, dried apricot, honey, dried flowers and herbs. The final note is persistent with balsamic vinegar and sweetness. 12.5% alc and 140-150g/litre RS. After the tasting, we briefly visited FAs winery.

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CWW in Sicily

Friday 7th June continued: Quentin Sadler at Donnafugata, for wine, woman and song
Like all good winery visits and indeed wines it started in the vineyards. Standing in Donnafugatas Contessa Entellina estate near Sambuca di Sicilia I was taken aback by the sheer beauty of the place. I had never been to Sicily before and every time we de-bussed I was thrilled by the variety and vitality of the landscape. The wild flowers in particular fields of scarlet poppies intermingled with vibrant yellow, purple, pink and blue flowers were everywhere made my heart sing. So, here we were at Donnafugata, a winery I knew about only vaguely and even then mainly because of its lovely labels. We were greeted by the lively and animated Jos Rallo I found it really hard to take good photographs of Sicilian winemakers as they never seem to keep their hands still. Jos is the daughter of Giacomo and Gabriella Rallo, whose family have produced Marsala for more than 150 years and who created the Donnafugata estate, to produce premium still wines, in 1983. The wonderful name by the way means fugitive woman or woman in flight and refers to Maria Carolina, Queen of Naples and Sicily and sister of Marie-Antoinette. In 1799 she fled the invading Republican French troops under General Napoleon Bonaparte and found refuge in the country estates of a noble. These same estates are now home to the Rallos vineyards and in Giuseppe di Lampedusas great novel, The Leopard, he christened them Donnafugata, and the name was adopted by the Rallos as an evocative name for their winery. Donnafugata appears to be one of those wineries as all the best ones are that never stands still, but continually evolves. Originally a Marsala producer, it then became trailblazer of fine Sicilian wines made from international grape varieties, before becoming champion of indigenous Sicilian grapes and creating an experimental project, with other growers, to pinpoint the perfect site for each grape variety to thrive in Sicily.

A birthday serenade for Keith Grainger from Donnafugatas Jos Rallo. The cool interior of the winery gave us shelter from the searing heat of the sun and we were treated to an informative presentation about the estate and a terrific, comprehensive tasting of the wines. The quality was high, sometimes very high, but certain wines stood out from the crowd: Vigna di Gabri. This single vineyard Vigna di Gabri in Contessa Entellina is a blend of Ansonica, the Marsala grape, with some Chardonnay, Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc and Catarratto, 85% fermented in stainless steel vats, 15% in second-use French oak barrels. The 2002 was wonderfully deep and rich with pithy citrus, wild flowers and pine nut notes, while the dry palate offered dry honey, herbs, a waxy texture, citric acidity and touch of saltiness
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on the long sapid finish. I liked this and the fresher, more creamy, less waxy 2011 as well. This wine, and vineyard, is named in honour of Joss mother Gabriella Rallo, whose signature graces every bottle. Apparently Gabriella believes that Ansonica is capable of producing quality table wines as well as Marsala and so she created this vineyard and wine. Jos seems very proud of her mother, especially that she was the first woman in Sicily to put on boots and supervise her workers in the field. It is clear that Gabriella has green fingers for things other than vines too, as the gardens she created around the winery and family house are stunningly beautiful and peaceful.

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CWW in Sicily

NV Donnafugata Brut Metodo Classico: This Chardonnay and Pinot Noir blend was my favourite Sicilian sparkling wine of the whole trip. Interestingly, the grapes are purposely grown on high north-east facing slopes which protect the grapes from the sun and so preserve their acids. It was nicely balanced with good fruit and acidity as well as complexity from 28 months ageing on the lees. For me, though, the wine highlight of this visit was the sweet Zibibbo wines of Pantelleria. I have long been fascinated by this volcanic island that though politically a part of Sicily is nearer to Tunisia than Italy. The main grape here of course is Moscato or Muscat of Alexandria, but they traditionally call it Zibibbo in these parts as it came here via North Africa and apparently zibibb means dried grapes in Arabic. Donnafugata makes two very different styles: Kabir DOC Moscato di Pantelleria is an aromatic and attractive Moscato with a light, fresh character there is even a little touch of frizzante to it and I enjoyed the 2011 vintage of this wine as well as its lovely label.

Altogether more serious, more complex and hedonistic but no less pleasurable is the amazingly concentrated Ben Ry DOC Passito di Pantelleria. This extraordinary wine is made from grapes that are harvested in August and dried in the sun for three to four weeks. Then in September they pick another load of fresh, but very ripe grapes and start a normal fermentation. At this point the dried grapes are destemmed by hand and added in batches to the fermenting fresh Moscato so that they impart their deeper flavours, higher sugars and great complexity. The fermentation finally stops around the end of November and the wine is then aged in bottle. I was instantly seduced by the complexity and stunning figgy and salty caramel richness of the 2004, while the orangey panforte-like 2006 was very nearly as complex give it time. The 2010 was altogether fresher and more straightforward, but still delicious and I am sure will age to be just as memorable as its older siblings. Sadly I have yet to visit Pantelleria, but it seems to be

a place of heroic viticulture like Santorini, Cinque Terre and Ischia. It must be back-breaking work tending these lowlying 100-year-old bush vines, harvesting them by hand, drying the grapes in the sun, harvesting another lot and then fermenting them for the best part of three months, but it all seems to be worth it. I didnt want to leave, but all things must pass, but first there was the no small matter of lunch. The lovely people of Donnafugata had prepared a wonderful buffet for us and we enjoyed this in the leafy shade of Gabriellas garden. At Susans instigation Jos sang for us she is a fine singer who has even recorded a CD and as luck would have it she chose to serenade our very own Keith Grainger with An Older Man is Like an Elegant Wine and rather aptly it was the day after his birthday. The whole visit was a great experience and a privilege to get an insight into this beautiful estate and to witness at first hand the passion and love its owners have for their land and what they do.

Arriving at Donnafugata. Below, Sicilian ladies sewing in the sun.

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CWW in Sicily

Tenuta Rapital: remote, beautiful but also modern. Photos by Andrew Barrow.

Friday 7th June continued: Andrew Barrow finds modern technology, but no Wi-Fi, at Tenuta Rapital
A warm welcome at Tenuta Rapital; beaming smiles and hearty handshakes from the Comte de la Gatinais and his wife. They had been following our exploits, tastings and lunch at Donnafugata via twitter, with more than a little envy one feels. I think they hoped our twitter reports would continue but, surprisingly for a company so focused on technology, they could offer no Wi-Fi! As Laurent Bernard, the comte, explained: We are rather remote here we havent seen a postman for five years! The estate lies to the south of Palermo, PalermoMonreale being the official region, with great swathes of vineyards surrounding the winery. Through the high bluepainted metal fence these vineyards swept up the hills in clean, clearly defined blocks, the very top of those verdant hills dotted with great white bladed wind turbines. Under the strong sun, the comte pointed out the various blocks: There is Chardonnay... That triangle block is Syrah, next to it Nero dAvola Rapital is an authentic name, it comes from the Arabic Rabidh-Allah, river of Allah

for the stream that flows through the vineyards, and shows that this land has been cultivated since antiquity. Perusing the company promotional literature a certain disappointed ripple ran through the room on the realisation that the suave, terribly cool white-suited gentleman pictured between the vines and the floatingly gentle young lady gazing wistfully over the sun-kissed vineyards and provocatively squeezing a bunch of grapes so the juice runs into her open mouth were not members of the family. Just models hired for a day The estate has essentially been rebuilt from the ground up. An earthquake 30 odd years ago levelled everything. Technology was put as the focus: mechanical harvesting, introduced yeasts for total control of the wine-making process, fully controlled temperatures, specific selection of vine clones, and so on. And how does this emphasis on technology and the application of the most modern techniques manifest itself in the wines? The opening salvo of whites a 100% Grillo (Rapital Grillo 2012), an aperitif-style Grillo/ Sauvignon/Viognier blend (Bouquet 2012) and a Grillo/ Catarratto/Chardonnay blend (Piano Maltese 2012) were exceptionally clean and precise. Very easy-drinking, with
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the last wine showing greater texture and better length. This precision and focused style, a house style perhaps, came through on the reds too. Of the six reds sampled, it wasnt just the native varieties that showed well. While the 100% Nero dAvola (Camporeale 2012) had an amazing aroma full of cherries, red fruits and a touch of the balsamic plus a juicy, approachable, palate, it was the Syrahs that impressed. First up was Nadir 2011 with its captivating, rustic tannins and prune-to-berry-led flavours, a 100% Syrah, followed by the pinnacle of the estates output, Solinero 2012 (another 100% Syrah). The comte explained that the estates Syrah plantings, while of the exact same clone, reveal remarkable differences from three different plots. The Tenuta Rapital Solinero is made only in the very best years. In fact it has been made only three times over the last seven. Solinero is a highly defined three-hectare vineyard and the companys precision (I hate to use the word again, but it is so apt for the overall Rapital philosophy) results in a powerful, velvety wine with a polished elegance and good complexity. Peppery, raspberry flavours to the fore. We could have lingered longer; but a tight schedule and further vinous adventures beckoned.

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Friday 7th June - Saturday 8th June: Amanda Barnes is in noble company with the counts of Tasca dAlmerita
You are home! Corrado Maurigi said as we arrived. If only! would have been my response, not from being tired on the last stop of the week but because the Regaleali estate of Tasca dAlmerita is a place of sublime beauty. Lolloping hillsides striped with green vines and studded with white sheep set the scene for this beautiful large farmhouse in the centre of Sicily. If my home was like this I dont think Id leave, not even to pop out for milk. And actually popping out for milk at Regaleali isnt necessary, because the whopping 500 hectare estate encompasses not only 55 wine varieties in the vineyards, but also orchards, vegetable patches, a thick forest and flocks upon flocks of sheep. At dinner we reaped the rewards of the familys sustainable farming approach with divine homemade ricotta, delicious lamb and stuffed aubergine with lashings of estateproduced olive oil. Yes, life is dolce in Sicily In a perfect aristocratic fairytale, the estate is owned by a family of counts and two noble brothers still run the show with their 70 staff members and 200 seasonal workers spread across five vineyards. The largest vineyard is the Regaleali estate in Valledolmo with a wide variety of native and international varieties; at the Capofaro estate on Salina in the Aeolian Islands the family produces Malvasia in a nice floral and peppery dry wine and a sweet passito version; from Mozia (San Pantaleo) island in the Stagnone Lagoon near Marsala comes a Grillo; from the central region of Monreale there are a range of varieties; and finally in the portfolio is Etna wine too, from Nerello Mascalese. The crown is the Regaleali estate, though, where we were staying the evening and where there is a cookery school as well as seven family rooms for guests to stay overnight. A delicious dinner, then a vineyard tour and extensive tasting in the morning all flew by and before you knew it we were back on the coach with the sad realisation that Tenuta Regaleali wasnt our home It was for one night though, and that was certainly a highlight of the trip.

Corrado Maurigi: And all this is where our wines come from...
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CWW in Sicily

Saturday 8th June continued: Rebecca Murphy samples sweet temptations

Our last tasting of the trip was an opportunity to explore sweet wines and Marsalas. The tasting was in a meeting room at the Ada Hotel with no producers in attendance. The wines were arranged by producer with a technical sheet was provided for each. Since the wines were of varying sweetness and alcohol levels, but only three tech sheets gave sugar measurement, I used stated alcohol levels to develop a tasting strategy. We were offered three Sicilia IGT wines. Tenuta Gorghi Tondi, Sicilia IGP, Grillo dOro 2010 was a botrytis-affected Grillo fermented in stainless steel with four months in French oak barrels and four months in bottle before release. It was quite lovely with aromas of honey and apricot, intense flavours in the mouth balanced with vibrant acidity. The next, Fondo Antico, Sicilia IGT, Vino Passito Baccadoro 2009, was confusing, because it was listed as a passito, but nothing in the tech sheet suggested drying of the grapes. In my notes I remarked on aromas of

months in oak was dense and rich with aromas and flavours of dried apricots and raisins with hints of vanilla. Pellegrino, Duca di Castelmonte, Passito di Pantelleria DOC, NES 2010 saw no oak. It was less dense that the Florio, sweet with dried pineapple and peach aromas and flavours. For me, the most impressive wines were the Marsalas, because, in the United States, we mostly see Marsalas marketed for cooking. As a matter of fact, at one of our previous visits where Left, part of the guesthouse at we tasted a Grillo table wine, our Regaleali; right, a fox steals host related his US importers Matt Wilsons breakfast biscuit. admonition not to tell potential buyers that Grillo is one of the grapes in Marsala, since it is considered a cooking wine. raisin, with clean ripe fruit and moderate acidity. We were very fortunate to have been presented two The most unusual of these wines was a sweet Syrah, Alessandro di Camporeale, Sicilia IGT, Vendemmia Tardive different Vergine Marsalas. Vergine means that the only Kaid 2009. The grapes are harvested when they are addition made to the base wine is the fortifying alcohol. Cantine Pellegrino, Marsala Vergine DOC Riserva Dry quite ripe and spend 15 months in Allier oak casks. It had blackcurrant and cherry aromas and flavours, sweet with 1981, made from Grillo and Cataratto, showed savoury, nutty, sea-breeze salty aromas, dried fruits and roasted moderate acidity and quite chewy tannins. We had examples of two classic DOC passito wines almond flavour, bone dry on the palate. Florios Baglio Florio from islands off the Sicilian coast: Malvasia delle Lipari from Marsala Vergine DOC 1998 (Grillo) had aromas of dried the Aeolian Islands in the north east and Pantelleria in the figs, and toasted hazelnuts. It was dry with flavours of dried south west. Fenech, Malvasia delle Lipari DOC, Passito fruits, with notes of vanilla and liquorice. Then came Cantine Pellegrino Marsala Superior Bio 2010 (95% Malvasia delle Lipari, 5% Corinto Nero) was, according to tasting list, an organic wine, though the Ambra DOC 1985 (Grillo and Catarratto), also impressive producers tech sheet made no mention of organic. It was with more sweetness and fine delicate flavours including very aromatic with dried apricot, fig, peach and pineapple candied orange zest, vanilla and roasted nuts. From Florio and rich yet delicate in the mouth. Florio, Malvasia delle we sampled Donna Franca Marsala DOC Non-Vintage Lipari DOC 2009, also primarily Malvasia delle Lipari with (Grillo). It was aged ten years in 300-litre barrels and one a small amount of Corinto Nero, aged five months in oak year in bottle before release. It was quite rich and satisfying barrels, was amber, almost orange in colour with rich and with a lovely balance of sweetness and acidity. In all, it was a very brief but educational picture of some honeyed dried fruit flavour. Florio, Passito di Pantelleria DOC 2009 with eight of Sicilys most iconic wines.
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CWW in Sicily

A foodie overview of the trip: Amanda Barnes rummages through gods larder
Some people call Sicily gods kitchen and its not hard to see why. A bountiful coast filled with creatures coming from the Mediterranean Sea and coast of Africa; an agriculturally rich land of sunny climes with cool coastal areas as well as sub-tropical heat; and a history of immigration and culinary influences from Greece, Africa and the Arab world Sicily is bound to have good food. During our week on the island we gained an insight into Sicilian cuisine, as well as a few extra pounds around the belly Maybe its easiest to sum up our foodie experiences by breaking it down into courses, and there were many. Typical in Italy, any dining experience kicks off with antipasti and with such a splendid array of food it can be quite a challenge to remember to leave room for the other three courses. Abundant in Sicily is fresh produce, so as expected we found a range of marinated, infused, stuffed, roasted, grilled, toasted, carpaccio-ed and simply sliced vegetables such as aubergine, mushrooms, olives, peppers, tomatoes and artichokes. Caponata is a traditional Sicilian preparation of tomatoes

and aubergine which was splendid splodged all over homemade bread. An exemplary dish that showed the heavenly quality of Sicilys produce was the simple fennel and orange salad: fresh fennel finely sliced with juicy orange segments and a splash of olive oil. This can be executed to perfection on the island, but requires the fresh, just-from-Nonnastree oranges which are so sweet and fragrant that no doubt Gabriel Garcia Mrquez would have found diamonds in them. Among the antipasti we often found more street-foodstyle dishes, such as the crispy rice balls known as arancini which are stuffed with a ragu, meat or cheese. Another fried typicality is panelle, a chickpea fritter, which is simply a soft warm morsel which helps you swig down some more Carricante. Probably the favorite antipasti for everyone was the fresh cheese, though: homemade ricotta that was so creamy and fine I would have smeared it on my face without hesitation; fresh buffalo mozzarella that oozed delicious buffalo milk; and hard cheeses ripe with salty maturity. Key to survival in Sicily is not over-indulging in the antipasti, though because the courses get bigger. Primo piatto was often pasta. Always cooked to a perfect al dente it came with simple sauces which proved why less is more.

Whether fresh tomato sauce graced with a blushing leaf of basil, or the deep earthy flavour of sea urchin, its tough to resist either way. Then, when you feel your belly button is about to shoot across the table, out comes the main course. We had homereared lamb (great with a rich Nero dAvola), baked fish with juicy baby tomatoes, and pistachio and marzipan stuffed squid among other delights. The fertile island can pretty much give you most ingredients, but the key to Sicilian cooking is simplicity. Finally it was on to dessert. Famed for bringing cannoli into the world, Sicily abounds with this typical sweet dessert: a cylinder of fried pastry (sometimes sprinkled with almonds) stuffed with fresh ricotta cream and often topped with chocolate or pistachios on the ends. Its not possible to just eat one. Another sweet treat native to the island is granita. Believed to have originated from Etna snow being flavoured with lemon, this sorbet-style frozen dessert is wonderfully refreshing and best served alongside some of the abundant stone fruit and cherries. Follow it all up with a dense and intense espresso, and you will understand why they say god would pick Sicily for his kitchen. Its just dripping with flavour.

From left: The most amazing Burrata cheese at Benanti winery; great dessert of marscapone and fresh wild strawberries; cannoli.
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Members moments...

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... and scenes of Sicily

All trip photos by Matt Wilson unless otherwise credited.

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Richard Bampfield MW reports on the CWW seminar on unusual wine grapes, at the LIWF on 20th May 2013

The long and ever- growing history of the wine grape

The seminar audience. All photos by Jim Budd.

start this with a certain amount of trepidation, fully aware that Dr Vouillamoz covered so much ground in his presentation that this report could well fill as many pages as the already fabled Wine Grapes which inspired this seminar. And yet he presented effortlessly and with such mastery of both English and his subject that he was constantly engaging and kept perfectly to time. How Swiss... For those who might not make it to the end of my tasting notes, I am keen to point out that this was a remarkable event, very much one of the I was there kind. From a tasting point of view, it is unlikely that such a collection of extremely rare wines will ever again be assembled. What was even more impressive was the way Dr Vouillamoz presented them: combining great insight into the wines themselves with inspiring, personal descriptions of the characters who made them. He talks with a highly infectious enthusiasm and his constant search for the ampelographic truth has an Indiana Jones-like quality about it. I have no doubt that he

will become a highly sought-after and popular speaker, not least because one senses that his lifes work is only just beginning. Firstly a bit of background on Dr Jos Vouillamoz who, to most of us, is a less familiar figure than his partners on Wine Grapes, Jancis Robinson MW and Julia Harding MW. He did his post-doctorate studies with Carol Meredith at UC Davis in 2002 and it was Meredith who recommended Dr Vouillamoz to Jancis when she was planning to update her book on vines. The rest is history. In a brief introduction before tasting, Dr Vouillamoz was keen to explain what a grape variety really is: to an ampelographer and geneticist like himself, Pinots Noir, Blanc and Gris are all one grape variety, but in different mutations. Once the differences in the mutations can be seen with the eye, we call them clones. The older the grape variety is, the higher the number of clones. Each new grape variety develops from a seed and needs a mother and
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father, hence the detailed diagrams of grape parentage in the book. He also expressed his interest in the chronology of languages and its relevance to his research. The root of the word wine actually predates Indo-European languages; and, as we know that Indo-European languages date back 9,000 years, this means that wine must have existed more than 9,000 years ago. He pointed out that 42 countries claim indigenous grapes: Italy has the most, followed by France, with the audience being pleased to hear that even the UK has an indigenous grape Muscat of Hamburg, which was bred in the UK. That puts England in last place, alongside Peru and Thailand, just behind Malta and Turkmenistan eerily reminiscent of the Eurovision Song Contest. Since publication of Wine Grapes, there has been an online competition to find new indigenous grapes to add to the 1368 already in book. The number has already risen to over 1400!

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A couple of statistics I managed to note about the book itself: it weighs 3.07 kilos and, possibly to justify its scale, just one diagram shows 156 grapes that have the same pedigree. However, according to Dr Vouillamoz (can I abbreviate to Dr J from now on?), there is a limited number of founder varieties, perhaps only 13.

not especially helpful. Citrus and notes of almond, so at least it smells of wine not cheese. Textured, balanced acidity, with a fine, lingering, floral finish. Would be outstanding with raclette. Grk 2011 Branimir Cebalo, Korula, Croatia Less than 50 ha. Has only female flowers so needs pollination and is planted alongside Plavac Mali. Very difficult to cultivate. Gark in Greek means bitter. Grk is related to Tribidrag, which is the parent of Zinfandel and Primitivo (and Plavac Mali). In case you were wondering, Carol Meredith has made a Californian Tribidrag... well, of course she has. Branimir Cebalo produces 2400 bottles per year on the island of Korula. Expressive aromas of melon and honey, yellow fruit with an underlying resinous character. Round, textured, well balanced acidity, with a long, slightly bitter finish. Rather good. Kolorko 2010 Paaeli, Hoky, Turkey From Thrace in Western Turkey. No DNA profile, Dr J knows nothing about it nor does anyone else! 200 bottles of 2010 - dont look out for 2012, crop destroyed by powdery mildew. Rescued in 2005, Paaeli the only producer. Has to be pressed very gently. Barrel-fermented. Fresh, waxy, resinous aromas. Highish acidity, resinous character persists, leading to a bitter, bruised-apple finish, not dissimilar to a flor-influenced wine. Biancolella Vigna del Lume 2012 Antonio Mazzella, Ischia, Italy There are 293 ha of Biancolella in Campania, although this is from Ischia where it is related to San Lunardo. Vineyards on slopes, near the sea, no roads nearby. They press the grapes in caves near the vineyards then transport the must (or fermented wine? might make more sense than my notes do...) by boat to the cellars on the mainland. 6000 bottles per year, all produced by one couple.
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On to the tasting...
Versoaln 2009 Castel Katzenzungen, Sudtirol, Italy Made in part from possibly the oldest vine in the world which, astonishingly, covers 350 sq metres and could be 350 years old. 500 bottles per year produced. Marked by pronounced acidity with aromas of green apple, wet stone and a note of white pepper. According to Dr J, reminiscent of Gouais Blanc which, of course, plays a starring role in the Pinot Pedigree Diagram in the book. 0rleans Gelb Rudesheimer Berg Schlossberg 2011 Georg Breuer, Rheingau First mentioned in 1539. Descended from Gouais Blanc, therefore a half sibling of Chardonnay, Riesling, etc. 1300 vines exist. Considered extinct after 1921. Rediscovered by Helmut Becker. Only Knipser and Breuer have commercial plantings. Breuer produces 400 bottles per year. Anne Krebiehl pointed out that this variety was probably planted around the perimeter of vineyards to deter grape robbers from advancing further. Scented nose, green apples, white peach, fennel. Excellent fruit definition, apple and fennel flavours persist. High acidity, light, delicate, very fine. According to Dr J, like a mix of Furmint and Riesling. Lafnetscha 2011 Chanton Kellerei, Visp, Switzerland First mentioned in 1627 in the Valais. 1.5 ha planted only four producers. Parents are Humagne (Valais) and Completer (Ticino). 700 bottles per year made only by the Chanton family who also make a pure Gouais Blanc. My note reads that this smells Swiss, which I realise is

A serious business: Oz Clarke.

Lifted aromas of peach, pineapple and honeysuckle. Wonderful fruit on the palate, even a note of tannin, tastes just off dry with flavours of dried apricot, leading to a long, mouth-watering finish. Outstanding wine tastes like you always hope Condrieu will. Dreamy wine with an equally dreamy story. Callet Negre de San Colonia 2010 Vins Toni Gelabert, Mallorca, Spain Callet means black in the local dialect. 134 ha in Spain. This wine spent 13 months in French and American oak. Still purple, very youthful. Fine, scented, fruit and spice, with oak playing a supporting role. Juicy and balanced with rounded, soft tannins. Fresh and easy, although there was a sense that the oak made it harder to get to grips with the variety.

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Wine Grapes

Areni Karasi 2011 Zorah Wines, Rind, Armenia Nothing known about its history, its parentage or surface area. Areni is also the place where the oldest cellar (and oldest shoe!) has been found dating from 3000 BC. Pips and tasting cups found. 20,000 bottles produced. Made in amphorae, French and American barrels. The winemaker, Zorik, presented the wine. What started as a hobby has now become a challenging but satisfying lifestyle. Trying to make an authentic wine, which is hard because most of the traditions in Armenia are lost. So it is slow work trying to rewind traditions and match with the latest savoir-faire. Trying to combine the mentality of an exSoviet, rural community with modern technology. Constant work on field selections. Main natural resource in Armenia is rock! Under the Soviet era, Armenia was categorised for brandy production, so the tradition of amphorae-ageing for wine was lost. Zorik now working with the younger generation to bring it back. They have rediscovered vineyards, ungrafted (no phylloxera), at 1600 metres. Lots of work to do refinding and documenting traditional Armenian vines. Fascinating aromas that combine very pure black cherry fruit with earthiness and spice. Fine and delicate on the palate, with a peppery edge, elegant and appetising. Freshtasting tannins and real character. As Dr J calls it (with evident affection), a gypsy of a wine. Raboso Piave Gelsaia DOCG 2009 Piave Malanotte Az. Agr. Cecchetto, Veneto, Italy Raboso probably means acidic in the local dialect. Confraternita del Raboso Piave founded in 1996. All these producers interested in preserving local heritage. Cecchetto family produce 7000 bottles per year. 20% passito method. New and used barrels. The local joke is that it needs three people to drink it one to persuade a second to drink it and a third to pick the second up after he has done so! (Due to tannin and acidity) Deeply coloured, with fragrant, tobacco aromas. Plenty

to cider, which could be construed as positive or negative depending on ones outlook. Kisi 2011 Pheasants Tears, Georgia Very little information on this seductively named grape because there is not much in the way of historical documents. Not in English anyway. Only 50 ha planted. Dr J pronounced, with evident disappointment,We dont know the parents of Kisi!. But one has the impression he intends to find out. Made in amphorae underground. Made like this for 8000 years. Absolutely natural. No SO2 because polyphenols released during fermentation protect it. Six months skin contact, indigenous yeasts. Made by Jon Wurdeman. 3500 bottles per year. Bright, mid to deep gold. Aromas of camomile according to Dr J. Dry, genuinely tannic. Acidity appears on the low side. Something of an acquired taste, which was a shame as it was clear the audience was well disposed towards Kisi.

Zorik Zorah of fruit, with high acidity and firm and ripe, but not aggressive or drying, tannins. Dried fruit character and liquorice on the finish. Should age very well. Gringet Amphore 2010 Domaine Belluard, Haute-Savoie, France Apparently it is important to state that Gringet is NOT Savagnin (not that it is a distinction that has been keeping me awake at nights). 15 ha planted, only in Haute-Savoie, with Domaine Belluard the only producer. It makes 1200 bottles per year. Two months skin contact in amphorae, above ground. Orange wine. Cloudy. Soapy, bruised apple aromas, note of jasmine. Dry and untamed, some tannin, maybe some minerality. My note reads this is to wine what scrumpy is
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Dr J

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Tom Lewiss view on the seminar

Should obscurity be celebrated?

hat does a wine made from one of the worlds most obscure grape varieties taste like? Does the degree of obscurity of the grapes that go into the wine make it a better or less good wine? Are obscure grape varieties a symbol of diversity and heritage to be celebrated and preserved or the oenological equivalent of dinosaurs or minor composers who merit no more than a footnote in history. I am still undecided on these points; I want to see diversity and variety in wines, but I am not interested in obscurity for its own sake, in wine tasting as a competitive, acquisitive, box-ticking exercise of grape varieties. The whites Versoaln 2009: light sandy yellow, green apple and mineral nose; peachy and waxy, with ripe tropical fruit and some spiciness. Light with good acidity. Rudesheimer Berg - Schlossberg Orleans 2011: Golden sandy yellow, floral and marzipan aromas, very high acidity

initially, leading to salinity and minerality with some yellow stone fruit. Persistence and a touch of almond bitterness on the finish. Lafnetscha 2011: fermented in stainless steel, medium straw colour, floral nose with almonds and green apples, high acidity and dense structure; white pear fruit and some sweet spice. Grk 2011: Deep golden sandy, aromatic, toasty nose; melon, honey and toastiness with some orange peel aromas. Fresh acidity. Kolorko 2010: Barrel fermented, then aged in glass demijohns. Golden sandy yellow, with volatile aromas of nail polish. Prominent sharpness, on the palate, quite challenging, with bitter lemon and pink grapefruit; zesty, bitter finish. Vigna del Lume 2012: Medium golden straw, tropical fruit and sweet spice, pineapple and honeysuckle with some dried apricot. Well-balanced with a persistent finish.

The reds Negre de San Colonia 2010: Dark purple, sweet oaky spice, vanilla and coconut, red fruits and tobacco on the palate; fresh acidity, supple tannins and a long finish. Karasi 2011: Dark purple with truffles, mushrooms and cigar; some yeasty pungency and dark fruit. Mid-palate of blackberries and vanilla custard, grippy firmness with orange zest bitterness on the finish. Gelsaia DOCG Piave Malanotte 2009: Almost opaque, complex nose of rich, dark dried mixed fruit and tobacco. Sweet ripe fruit, it feels big and grippy, full-bodied with ripe, red-tea tannins. Grippy finish with some liquorice aromas. The orange wines Gringet Amphore 2010: A slightly cloudy pale orange colour, sweetly pungent and spicy nose. Floral orange blossom and jasmine, lanolin texture, tannins and minerality, with some aniseed and persistence on the finish. Kisi 2011: Bright golden orange, the colour of brandy; floral aromas with camomile, straw and herbs. Musky, smokey palate, chewy tannins and dried apricots. Overall, the presentation left me with more questions than answers. The questions were, of course, all rhetorical and aimed

A selection of wines from the seminar.

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Circle Update

July 2013

Wine Grapes

at myself how I feel about wine, about homogeneity and obscurantism but they were unresolved. To have so many rare / borderline extinct grapes at a single tasting is perhaps a once in a lifetime opportunity but for me, something was missing. Two questions from the audience were the lightning rod for my nagging sense of disquiet one attendee noted that grapes become obscure either because they make bad wine or because they are hard to vinify; as all the wines tasted were good, was the difficulty for the wines we had tried in the making of the wine? A second person added that the fact that these wines taste palatable must be due in part to modern methods of wine making that a century ago would not have been available, so what we experienced must have been very different to how the wines had historically tasted. As can be expected, all the wines were indeed good yet, whilst not mainstream, they were generally recognisable, almost familiar in style. My tasting notes do not contain any

especially unusual descriptions and had I been given them to taste blind, I would not have had any sense that they were amongst the rarest in the world. So, is rarity and obscurity of itself a good thing and if not, does that inevitably make homogeneity a good thing? If there is a reason why we listen to Mozart more than to Salieri these days, it is the same reason as why the dinosaurs died out. If Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon are the Mozart and Beethoven of wine, does that make these rare grapes obscure dinosaurs with no reason to exist any longer? Is my glass of Grk merely a museum-piece curio, a fossil relic from an earlier age? And yet, over-familiarity with, say, the opening bars to Mozarts 40th symphony or Beethovens 5th symphony renders them dull and predictable, part of the aural furniture. We demand variety as well as quality and predictability. It would be nice to argue that these grapes represent a sense of individuality, a refusal to conform to modern global standards and yet, whilst perfectly good and interesting, they had none of the challenging wackiness of wines made from far less obscure, in some cases quite mainstream varieties. To me, the obscurity of the grape variety is a chimera it is but one piece of the puzzle and the human story of how the grapes are grown and the wine made and aged is its fascination. Dr Vouillamozs presentation focused more on the stories of the grapes their origins, background, parentage, acreage and less on

Jamie Goode, whose recording of the seminar is available here: http://bit.ly/10q8zpi

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the stories of the people who make them, and how and why they persist in maintaining varieties on the verge of extinction. In its ambition the breadth of tasting 12 obscure wines from different regions and countries the presentation perhaps lost a chance to provide some depth, the stories of the wines. For it is one thing to preserve a grape variety, but it is another to understand that varietys heritage, to pass down the story of what it is and why from generation to generation. Like assimilated urban immigrants, these wines had some back story, but ironically did not show enough individuality and character to enthuse me about their continued survival. Character, where it was evident, came more from production method than from the innate qualities of the grape. So whilst the grapes were obscure, the wines themselves generally were not. The conclusions I come to are: obscurity of grape variety for its own sake is meaningless; rather we should celebrate diversity in wines. Just as a mainstream grape can be made in an unusual style, so an obscure grape can be made in a mainstream style the character of a wine comes as much from its geography and how it is made as from the grape variety; there is an historic affinity between certain grapes, regions and production methods (sherry, ripasso, vin jaune, Champagne and so on) that gives a heritage to a wine. Together, these are what give a wine a sense of place and individuality. And so it comes back to the people behind the wine and the choices they make to choose to plant a certain variety in a particular place, to make it into a particular type of wine according to a certain method. The story of the grape, its origins and parentage, can only ever be a part of the story of a bottle of wine and perhaps wines made from the rarest of grapes have an in-built disadvantage here; for the greatest grape varieties have a versatility that permits endless, subtle distinctions that grapes grown only in very limited quantities are unable to display.

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July 2013

Bordeaux 1: John Salvi MW assesses the 2012 vintage

A year where terroir/soil truly mattered

actually rather dislike these brief adjectival descriptions of a vintage, BUT in 2012 terroir/soil was decidedly paramount. Thus the tantalising title! Various properties have come up with more exotic ones. Palmer says a concerto in three movements, Vieux Chteau Certan says a classical English vintage with a classical Bordeaux climate, rac et equilibr and Pichon Baron says a fight on all fronts. Many simply say a year of contrasts. I will start by making a statement about which I am now totally convinced. In difficult years you can make great wine, with very few exceptions, only if you can sell it at a great price. I repeat in difficult years. Cosseting the vine like a much-loved baby costs a great deal of money. Green pruning, thinning and deleafing are luxuries, as Denis Dubourdieu once said to me, and cost a fortune. Putting only 33% of the production into the first wine is almost a sinful luxury, especially if you do not have a second or third wine. State-of-the-art equipment for sorting the grapes (perhaps the greatest advance of recent times) runs into hundreds of thousands of euros: vibrating tables, optical sorting machines, new ultra-performing destalkers, and now chlorophyll sensitive sorters, all permitting only perfect, identical, ripe and healthy grapes to enter the fermenting vats. Many people praised the virtues of the optical sorting machine this year where extremely severe selection was needed, as its optics can throw out any grapes that have even a tinge of green in them and are therefore not perfectly ripe.

Chteau Lafite. All photos by Jim Budd. All this explains why the majority of growers, who are not fortunate enough to be able to afford all these luxuries, have great difficulty in making great wine in very difficult years, and 2012 was certainly one of the most difficult years in living memory. Forty or 50 years ago it would have been totally impossible to make fine wine and such a vintage would have been a disaster! The remarkable, ultra-severe, perfected sorting procedures that have been developed over the past few years have made such a vintage possible and 2012 needed the very severest selection. We can say, before going any further, that 2012 was not a great year overall, with a few notable exceptions. A very good one in a number of cases, but not a great one. There were numerous faults and errors, as we shall see. However, making great wine is an art, like fine sculpting, fine painting or fine music. There are few great artists and this is as true of wine as it is of the other fine arts. Therefore it is no surprise if there are correspondingly few great wines. Let us, as we do each and every year, look at the structure and quality of this difficult vintage, which as always
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is basically the result of the weather conditions and the climate, together with my hobby horse terroir/soil, skilfully handled by man.

Terroir/soil

The factors involved in fine wine making are both multitudinous and complex, but one factor that played an important part this year was decidedly terroir. A word interpreted differently by many, but which I am sure my readers understand. Drought resistance was a major factor and clay and calcareous soils that best resist drought conditions fared best. Those soils that retain moisture were less affected by the hydric stress and had less shut-down and in some cases no stoppage at all. The grapes, particularly the earlier-ripening Merlot, were able to reach full maturity in a year where on less water-retentive soils the Cabernet could well have done with another week before harvesting. This was an important point in the final composition of the grapes and we shall come back to it again and again.

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Bordeaux 2012

Cabernet versus Merlot

This is a relatively useless exercise, but so many people want to say this is a Cabernet year or this is a Merlot year. It is not really very helpful in an area as varied as Bordeaux and with so many different soils and microclimates. There are people saying that 2012 is a Merlot year, but if we look at Lafite, Mouton and Latour we see that the percentage of Cabernet in the first wine is one of the highest ever and the grapes were picked in perfect condition and at perfect ripeness. Lafite had 91% Cabernet Sauvignon in the first wine, Latour 90.2% and Mouton 90%. Also it is fascinating to compare Palmer and Margaux, which are contiguous and which both made two of the very finest wines. Palmer has 48% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot, and 13% is vin de presse. It is supremely feminine, whilst Margaux has 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and only 10% Merlot. Purity, elegance, refinement, said Corinne Mentzelopoulos! At Brane

Cantenac neither the Cabernet Franc nor the Carmenre was put into the first wine as they did not ripen sufficiently to satisfy them.

Ripeness

We have already talked about this. The wonderfully ripe and rich Merlot, which of course ripens earlier than the Cabernet, had all the time needed during the fine August and September to reach optimum maturity, often at 14 of alcohol or more and considerably more than the Cabernet. The latter was wonderful on the finest and earlierripening terroirs and with mature and old vines with deep root structures that were able to resist the severe drought, not suffer any stoppage or shut-down and mature fully to give magnificent fruit of optimum maturity. It was poor, unripe, harsh and in some cases disastrous on later-ripening terroirs, where carrying too many bunches, not sufficiently green-pruned or thinned out, with shallow root structures and

sadly on young vines. Here tannins remained unripe. Leaf removal, bunch thinning (in some cases twice), removing double buds and third clusters as well as secondary shoots, and tying off were all of great importance this year where ultra-meticulous work in the vineyards has never been so vital. Perhaps we should just clarify that September had only eight days of rain, to a total of 59.4mm. However only a tiny 2.6mm fell during the first 20 days, which was when the dry whites were picked under perfect conditions. The rest fell between the 21st and 26th, which was not good for those who started their red vintage. October had 21 days with rain to a total of 115.5mm. As only 29.1mm of this fell up to the 17th inclusive absolutely everybody claims to have finished by then. This because no less than 71.9mm fell on the three days from the 18th to 20th. The 14.5mm that fell on the seven days between the 21st and 31st therefore concerned only the sweet white wines! An interesting and individual case that shows how one year can impinge on another is Chteau Palmer. It did not have the same difficulty achieving fully and totally ripe Cabernet as did many. Why? Partially, of course, because of the poor fruit set at flowering reducing the yield, but primarily because of the hail in 2011, which caused the chteau to prune exceptionally severely and drastically during the 2011-2012 pruning season and therefore meant a much smaller potential crop than the usual yield from the very outset of 2012.

Colour
Chteau Palmer: severe winter pruning helped towards fully ripe Cabernet in 2012.
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There is not so very much to say about this except that the wines this year are deep coloured, vivid and intense. Some producers feared that the grapes with thicker skins would have less easily extractible colour and therefore coldsoaked, in other words did a pre-fermentation maceration. Naturally, colouring matter forms part of the phenolic compounds and if the phenolics in the later-ripening Cabernets were not completely ripe then it would be normal that the colour would not be easily extractible. For the very ripe Merlots, as I have already said the colours were deep,

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July 2013

Bordeaux 2012

dark and intense and became soluble with no trouble at all. Colour is soluble in an aqueous solution, whilst tannin becomes soluble only in the presence of alcohol.

As always tannins are a very major factor and this year more important than ever. A huge amount of work was needed to get them smooth, concentrated and crisp. Successful wines had a rich tannic substance with both precision and elegant concentration. Extraction had to be very gentle indeed to keep them silky, enhance fruit expression and not overextract. There was a long gap in many vineyards between physical ripeness (acidity and sugar) and phenolic ripeness and this year there was no hang time as there was last year. Although the Merlot ripened fully and was in many cases super ripe with fine concentration, rich, exuberant and with notes of cassis and blackberries, the Cabernet had real problems in ripening on less early-ripening terroirs and often did not achieve total phenolic maturity. I think this is the greatest failing of the 2012 vintage. By mid-October the ripening power of the sun has become very weak and this year to boot the bad weather arrived from the 18th. Henri Lurton at Brane Cantenac said any over-confidence or willingness to harvest in extreme conditions of over-ripeness was severely punished. Fortunate were those who were able even to consider overripeness in their Cabernets. Phenolic compounds include colouring matter as well as tannins and Palmer says that the August lack of water as well as nitrogen allowed the vine to focus its energy on developing the phenolic compounds and the anthocyanins.

Tannins

Domaine de Chevalier, one of many properties to make fine dry white wines in 2012. the acidities at optimum levels. Also, close to harvesting time the large variation between day-time and night-time temperatures, as well as helping to develop flavour and bouquet compounds, helped retain good acidity levels. because of the Merlots that were generally fully ripe, but because of the Cabernets that were often not. Palmer is a good example. The Merlots frequently had just over 14 and the Cabernets just over 12, with a resultant alcohol strength of around 13. Haut-Brion, although picking early as always (17th-27th September for Merlot and 1st-9th October for Cabernet Sauvignon), found the Cabernet hard to ripen and has its highest-ever percentage of Merlot in the final wine 65.5%! Some producers did cold soaking where they had thick skins and wanted to help the extractability, but this affected tannins and colour more than alcoholic strength. It was the difficulty in ripening and therefore the lack of total ripeness that kept the must weights down in the Cabernets. Nobody was worrying at all about these lower strengths as too high alcohol levels have been becoming a serious problem here in Bordeaux over the last few years. In the final

Sugar

Acids

As you will see below, the wonderful dry white Bordeaux had perfect acidities as long as they were not picked too late (after 20/09). Basically acidities were NOT one of the problems in the red wines this year. The cooler, wet weather in October, together with the drought of summer and therefore the lateness of the ripening, combined to keep

Not a word I like to use when talking about red wine, but of course I mean the amount of sugar in the grapes per kilo of juice and therefore the must weight. Just over 17 grams of sugar transform into 1 alcohol during fermentation. It is not something that was talked about much, but this year a number of growers chaptalised, something that nobody has needed to do now for several years. There is absolutely nothing at all wrong with chaptalisation as long as it is done sparingly, correctly and legally. The alcohol levels overall were very considerably lower than in 2011 or over the last few years. This was not
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Circle Update

July 2013

Bordeaux 2012

analysis alcoholic strengths for the most part were exactly what producers would have liked them to be this year. It is very important to note that the relatively early cessation of vegetative growth allowed better maturation by giving more sugar to the grapes. One remarkable wine was Latour with 90.2% Cabernet Sauvignon and only 12.8 a new Latour!

Fruit

Domaine de Chevalier Blanc and the white wine of Chteau Margaux. They are close to divine. A purity of fruit, an elegance, finesse, harmony, sugar-acidity balance, freshness and gracious expression of fine fruit of the very highest order. A joy! However, what was vitally important everywhere was to pick the grapes before the acidity levels started to fall. Generally speaking this was done. In this category there are many very fine and great wines.

This is of vital importance this year. Pichon Baron, and others, said everything this year was aimed at keeping the freshness of the fruit. The freshness and abundance of the fruit did not come without effort and any over-maturity of the Merlot would have been disastrous. To keep this freshness the vignerons had to fight fungus attacks, coulure and millerandage. Attacks of both downy and powdery mildew were fierce in spring. However, the variation in September between day-time and night-time temperatures helped keep it fresh, crisp and energetic. Low yields also helped keep the grapes healthy and therefore with good fruit.

Press wine

This used to be rough old stuff which we drank in-house when I worked at Palmer 50 years ago. Now it is given great importance and a number of top producers spoke at length about it this year. Several said that the optical sorting machine had greatly improved its quality. Chteau Palmer used up to 13% in the Palmer and no less than 18% in the Alter Ego. When as good as this it lends structure, body, colour and density to the wine and must be regarded as a prime element in the production of the very finest wines.

In Pessac-Lognan, and indeed in almost all the dry white wine vineyards, the vintage took place, almost entirely, during the first 20 days of September (Haut-Brion white 4th14th September), two weeks later than in 2011. The weather was both dry and sunny. Ideal! Hot by day and fresh by night, favouring the retention of perfect acidity levels and developing fine flavours and aromas. The grapes were perfectly healthy, due to the dryness. This year they

Dry white wines

Chteau dYquem: no first wine in 2012. had no rot at all. They could be picked rapidly and under perfect conditions. Yields were small for Sauvignon but more or less normal for Semillon. Some of these are GREAT wines and I use the word advisedly. I cannot help but mention Haut-Brion Blanc,
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The sweet, botrytised wines had a fearsomely complicated year and a hair-raising vintage. The twin problems were summer drought and autumn rains. The extreme dryness of mid-July - August created severe hydric stress, except on calcareous soils where water reserves are always greater. By the time the dry white vintage was finished not a trace of noble rot had appeared. It arrived with the rains of 21st-26th September (56.8mm). Fortunately for Barsac it developed more rapidly on its calcareous soils and less rapidly in Sauternes. Barsac started to vintage at the beginning of October. Naturally the noble rot developed more slowly as the season advanced and in much of Sauternes insufficiently. Picking, by tris, continued more or less until end October, but was stopped in the middle by heavy rains on the 18th-20th. Finally heavy rains at the beginning of November brought harvesting to a close and what had not been picked had to be discarded. As mentioned above, on calcareous soils it was possible to make small quantities of wine with very pure noble rot, but still relatively light. A number of the great Sauternes properties, including Chteaux dYquem, Suduiraut and Rieussec, decided not to make any first wine at all. Nary a drop! Other producers have complained about this, saying that if great properties renounced making a vintage it gave the whole region a bad name. However, Sandrine Garboy at Chteau dYquem told me that it was really impossible. She said that yeasts and bacteria had developed that usually never normally do so and that one of these was the one that makes Roquefort cheese! Thus very small quantities of good botrytised wines

Sweet white wines

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Bordeaux 2012

have been made by a number of properties, but overall the wines are relatively light, even if clean, pure and sweet.

Resum

It is very hard to sum up. Just to show how varied and heterogeneous it was Denis Dubourdieu and most growers are talking about thick skins and large berries, whilst Cos dEstournel claims thin skins and small berries with rapid extraction of anthocyanins! The wet harvest carried a continuous threat of botrytis, but the low yield helped maintain health in the grapes. Merlots were ripe, concentrated and exuberantly cassis, whilst the Cabernet were the crux of the whole 2012 problem, ripe or unripe depending on the many factors mentioned here. As already said, where the vines and grapes were of optimum age, ripeness and health, and on the finest and earlier ripening terroirs, some magnificent wines have been made. Unfortunately these are in the minority. Loville Barton says severity, austerity, precision, strength!

white and Merlot and the best Cabernet. Not for a lot of Cabernet. Paul Pontallier of Chteau Margaux cites four requirements for great wine: 1. Early ripening terroir 2. Old vines with deep roots 3. Perfect terroir 4. Precision, elimination, selection (very costly) Three of the features of the 2012 vintage, according to Denis Dubourdieu, were large berries, irregular maturity and protracted flowering and colour change, thanks to wet conditions during flowering and nouaison.

Winter

vine was unable to catch up, development remained behind average and led up to a very late flowering right at the end of it. This was both late and protracted under poor weather conditions. There was both coulure and millerandage and old vines lost a lot of crop. Mid-flowering was 11th June, the same as 2008, and with 2008 the latest over the last 10 years (but a touch earlier in Saint Emilion and Pomerol). This added up to a wet spring with the rain finally stopping around 20th June, having caused severe attacks of mildew from the flowering onward, which was to be found on the leaves but also sadly on the flowers. Fungicides worked well but bio growers lost a lot of crop, especially on the Merlot. From 22nd June summer temperatures set in.

Denis Dubourdieu has formulated five criteria needed to produce the perfect vintage. How does 2012 measure up against these and how did the weather shape and structure the 2012 vintage? 1. Early and rapid flowering. Not achieved. 2. A touch of hydric restraint during the formation of the fruit after flowering, thanks to warm dry weather to assure excellent flowering, predisposing homogenous maturation and limiting the size of the grapes. Not achieved. 3. For red wine. Sufficient hydric limitation before and after colour change to stop vegetative growth. Almost achieved. Stopped vegetative growth allows all the goodness from the roots to go into the grapes, not into the vegetation. 4. For red wine. Slow maturation thanks to a dry August and September, but without excessive heat. Achieved. 5. Fine weather with reasonable heat and little or no rain during the vintage, allowing optimum maturity of each parcel without dilution or rot. Fully achieved only for dry

Weather conditions shaping the vintage

December was mild and wet, the antithesis of 2011, with 174.9mm of rain on 25 days and 78 hours of sunshine. January was dry and cold with 53.4mm of rain and a miserable 58 hours of sun. February was a brutal month, desperately cold with 19 frosts, five falls of snow and an average temperature 4.9C lower than normal. Also dry with a mere 6mm of rain. March was dry again, going into spring. Moueix describes this period as, contrasted mild, very cold, lots of rain, drought. Over the five winter months total rainfall was 30% less than the average.

Overall an unstable spring led to a late and uneven flowering and favoured early fungus attacks. March had just 31.3mm of rain, was mild and enjoyed 72 hours of sunshine. April was a thoroughly miserable month, cool and very wet with 178.8mm of rain. The very opposite of April 2011 which was the hottest and driest on record. Budding was relatively late, taking place between the end of March and mid-April, much later than 2011 (28/03 in Pomerol and 31/03 in Saint Emilion). We had general frosts on 16th-17th April. Lafite and close-by vineyards had hail on 24th April, and in Graves there was also a frost on 9th May. Latour talks about spring mineralisation! May was relatively favourable and very dry with just 28.3mm of rain and 258 hours of sunshine, but the
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Spring

On 26th and 27th June temperatures reached more than 30C (34.6C on 27th). Rain amounted to 64.8mm and sun to 221 hours. However, July was very cool with record low temperatures and was the fifth coldest over the last 30 years. It had 46.8mm of rain and 249 hours of sunshine. Happily the relative dryness was sufficient to dry out any fungi. We continued with increased lateness. Really hot weather started only on 8th August. It was very dry and dry enough to almost stop growth and favour maturation. Just 18.7mm of rain all month and there were 249 hours of sunshine. The middle of August was totally dry and brutally hot, culminating with a blistering 39.1C on the 17th. It remained hot, sunny and dry for the rest on the month, although the heat was considerably more moderate. Hydric stress was felt quite seriously. The vine had slowed down from the beginning of August, but stopped (where it did stop) only around the 9th when the brutal heat struck it. Cheval Blanc says that 2005 had a similar drought and that from 27th August to 15th September weather conditions were identical to 2000. It was the hottest August since 2003 and the fifth driest over the last 50 years. From the 7th to 31st only four days were under 25C and 11 were above 30C. At this stage, in spite of the spring rains and the

Summer

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July 2013

Bordeaux 2012

cool early summer, a measure of hydric stress, that had been noticeable from bunch formation, was accentuated during colour change (around 12th August) and much of the maturation period. Some days of peak heat caused chaudage or burn. The effects of hydric stress were important for 2012 during colour change and should not be minimised. Knowledge and skill were required. This year many did two green prunings; the first in July to clear any millerand grapes and bunches too closely packed together; the second after colour change to get rid of any green grapes. Severe deleafing was also required to control the abundant July vegetative growth, although growth had now stopped. The colour change, around the 12th (14th at Latour) as stated above, had been around three weeks later than 2011. Now the vine caught up a bit, but not much, as the bursts of intense heat that caused burn also accentuated stoppage on the most exposed vines. Heterogeneity increased even further. One can say that the slow and difficult colour change, especially with Cabernet, and the resulting increased heterogeneity, are vital factors in the make-up of the 2012 vintage. From the 15th it was essential to green prune and thin out still green grapes, a painful task on an already small crop. However, if not done then unripe grapes at harvest time would give vegetal tastes to the wine. Latour still had some green grapes at the beginning of September. Here we come back to those who had state-of-the-art sorting equipment and those who could not afford such luxuries. The ideal would have been for the vine to stop growth a week earlier at the beginning of colour change. The last days of summer and the first 20 days of September were lovely, warm, relatively dry, sunny and ideal. Here comes a very important factor talked about elsewhere: a large variation between day and night temperatures, which favours both the development of aromatic expression and the synthesis of the anthocyanins. This was a boon!

Autumn and vintage

Now we sort the men from the boys! On gravel soils, with

little water reserve, on young vines with shallow roots and on vines carrying too much fruit the vines stagnated. Some suffered temporary maturation stoppage. Vines with deep roots and on calcareous or clay soils had much better resistance to the persistent hydric stress and matured regularly and well, which explains perfectly the magnificent wines produced on great terroirs. Mouton Rothschild says that by end-September the total rainfall since 1st January had been 435mm instead of the 50year average of 589mm (-26%). This is an important point. The weather changed dramatically from 21st September. In came wet weather and an early autumn. Overall, as mentioned earlier, September had 59.4mm of rain and 228 hours of sunshine. October was less sunny and wetter than normal with very heavy rains on the 18th-20th. Total rainfall was 115.5mm (long-term average 93mm) and sunshine 119 hours (long-term average 143 hours). Generally speaking, the Merlot vintage started around 25th September and the Cabernet two weeks later. It is interesting to note that the vintage started in 2012 at Brane Cantenac the same day that it finished in 2011. Here we have to repeat ourselves because it is what made the fine wines in 2012. Vines with not too many bunches, vines that had resisted the drought for one or other of the reasons already mentioned, vines correctly green pruned not too late, vines whose late grapes had been eliminated, all these ripened fully and satisfactorily, BUT, and here we are talking about a very large percentage of the red wines of 2012, many required at least another week to mature the Cabernet fully and did not get it. These ended up with thick skins and feeble extractability as well as frequently rough and unripe tannins. Where the rain thinned the skins the grapes became more sensitive to botrytis, which made it more difficult to wait for maturity. It was the sandy gravel soils that suffered most. On the other hand, in the less good wines, acidities were sometimes on the low side. There are also vegetal flavours in those unripe wines. To be briefly technical, Denis Duboudieu attributes this to the isobutylmethoxpyrazine content being above perception level.
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Finale

This is an extremely long report this year, but I have tried to cover in some depth the complicated situations that confronted producers throughout the growing season. I hope I have been successful. I would just like to reiterate that skilful growers, who did the right thing at the right time and listened to their vines, have produced some truly remarkable wine worthy of any and every wine lover.

Acknowledgements

Profound thanks must go to Denis Dubourdieu for providing a great deal of the material in this article, to the Union des Grands Crus for inviting me and organising the en primeurs tastings for the press, to Bernard de Laage de Meux of Chteau Palmer for help and support, and to Steven Spurrier of Decanter for organising many of the chteaux visits.

John Salvi MW

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July 2013

Bordeaux 2: Gilbert Winfield at LAssociation de Grands Crus Classs de Saint-Emilion tasting, London, 5th June 2013

Classic and balanced wines

he annual tasting of Saint-Emilion Grands Crus Classs took place at the trendy and spacious Altitude 360 in Pimlico. This year, vintages on show were 2009 and 2010, so the growers had little to apologise for. That said, Ch. Faurie de Souchard was one of those hit by hail in May in 2009, Thibaud Sciard, presenting the wines, described to us the difficulty of losing 90% of his crop as a result. Otherwise, the wines were largely as expected, with only good surprises, really. The reputation of these two vintages is well known, not only due to the comments of a certain American with the same name as a pen, but also because of the interest and buzz that two magnificent vintages in a row creates; everyone has written about them. Dont you love Bordeaux euphemisms? Classic is a word often wheeled out to excuse unripe wines from a poor year; this time, though, it seems to work for the 2010s. They are anything but unripe, and have a deep coloured, dark fruited spicy character, and aniseed freshness. Balance is used in a different context, often to justify high alcohol, and again the sceptic in me wakes up when I hear it. However, I tasted all three of Jacques Capdemourlins 2010s, Chteaux Balestard le Tonnelle, Cap de Mourlin, and Petit Faurie de Soutard (please note the similar spelling to Faurie de Souchard, above; they are indeed two different chteaux, its just part of that adorable French complication). Part of my note to the Balestard la Tonnelle reads: A huge mouthful of tannin and acidity, balanced by ripe and generous black fruit. Thierry Capdemourlin pointed out alcohol levels of 15, 15.5 and 15.5%, in order, for these

three wines, but talked of the balance, and my note confirms this. The alcohol didnt stand out in any of these, nor in any of the other wines I tasted on the day. My tasting notes are repetitive. Big, ripe, soft-fruited 2009s, with red, sweet Merlot fruit, lowish acidity, and velvety tannins, drinking well now, and more angular, serious, spicy (both words versions, I suspect, of classic, a word I dont really use) 2010s, with a huge mouthful of tannin and acidity, balanced by ripe and generous black fruit. Have I said that before? Another common theme appears to be the consultant Michel Rolland; hes everywhere. I recently read a cartoon book called Robert Parker: Les Sept Pchs Capiteux (The seven heady sins), by Benoist Simmat and drawn by Philippe Bercovici, which blames Big Bob with Michel Rolland for homogenising the flavour of Bordeaux and creating a Parker taste (capiteux, in the title, translates as heady while capitaux is deadly, which would be the more familiar expression). Its a great book, by the way, very witty (if you are a wine nerd, otherwise you wont understand it) but it hasnt been translated. It is, of course, satirical, but most of the Rolland-consulted wines seemed to show a full, chocolaty, extracted character, and high alcohol (none
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less than 14%), but those are also characteristics of both vintages. The three from Capdemourlin above are all consulted by his laboratory. One exception to this was Chteau Grand Corbin dEspagne. Franois dEspagne, the very affable owner, explained that he was fully organically certified, and trying out biodynamic production. He tried to point to this fact in the otherwise very well-presented fact sheet that accompanied each estates page, but it wasnt there. He remarked that, although he did inform them, the association must have omitted to print this information. His wines of both vintages showed a charming harmony, with easy acidity, melted but prominent tannins, and yes, great balance, even classics. They were still 14% (2009), and 14.5% (2010). It was an enjoyable and informative tasting of two great vintages. If the following one features 2011 and 2012, a different set of euphemisms will come to the fore. Anyone who hasnt been living on Mars for the last few years will be familiar with the financial sectors descriptors of choice: challenging and difficult. Bordeaux has added a new variant to these two for the 2012 vintage: a winemakers vintage (but arent all vintages)? Maybe the turnout will be lower for that one.

Circle Update

July 2013

Bordeaux 3: Tom Lewis reports on an event to celebrate a wine with

A most particular taste

n 10th April 1663, diarist, Cambridge-graduate and upwardly-mobile man-about-town Samuel Pepys wrote to have drank a sort of French wine called Ho Bryen that hath a good and most particular taste I never met with, thereby inventing the tasting note. Haut-Brion, the only Bordeaux first growth based outside the Mdoc, was purchased in 1935 by US financier Clarence Dillon, and is now run by Prince Robert of Luxembourg after Dillons granddaughter married into the family. To mark the 350th anniversary of this earliest recorded assessment of the wine, Cambridge University Wine Society arranged a celebration dinner, starting with a talk by Dr Jane Hughes, Samuel Pepys librarian and fellow of Magdalene College, on Pepys, the diary and the 1660s. Pepys a shoemakers son who went to Cambridge and from there made a highly successful career for himself in what was then the equivalent of the civil service was something of a chancer with a taste for the high life. His diary records that on the same day as he tasted the Haut-Brion he also bought some fashionable gloves and pendants. The talk on the diary was followed by a reception and viewing of the entry itself (unintelligible to most as Pepys wrote in shorthand) and an earlier factual record by Charles IIs cellar master in Magdalene Colleges Pepys library. In Pepys day red Bordeaux, popular in the fourteenth century, was deemed inferior to Rhenish wine. But two things brought about an improvement in Bordeauxs fortunes. In exile at the court of Louis XIV, Charles II acquired a taste for

The Charles II cellar book, 1660-1661 with the establishing of the Pontacs Head, Londons first fashionable eating-house, which also acted as a distribution outlet for the wine. I asked Prince Robert about his approach the marketing and running of a business whose history goes back 500 years and whose product is available only in very limited quantities yet is considered to be the greatest of its type in the world. It all comes down to heritage and quality, he replied: I am interested in history and I want to make the best wine I can. And a quick look around suggests this balance is not an uncommon approach once-great brands had almost unlimited amounts of heritage, but when quality fell below an acceptable level for too long the business was sold to

Bordeaux that he brought back to England with him along with the restoration, while the march to war with the Dutch, the main shippers of Rhenish wine, interrupted supplies from Germany. The 1660s were perhaps not too dissimilar to the 1960s a time of growth and expansion accompanied by a colourful explosion in cultural hedonism and lifestyle; there were coffee houses, smoking and an exciting new beverage called tea. Pepys mention of Haut-Brion is more than just a matter of record, then; it is symbolic of a new level of sophistication and a focus away from generic mentions (Bordeaux) and on to individual producers (Ho Bryen) that led to the 1855 classification. The diary note was, in a sense, the first building of the brand of Haut-Brion, a process that continued
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Circle Update

July 2013

Haut Brion 350 years on

someone with the resources to reinvigorate the brand by restoring quality. As Prince Robert notes, the biggest economic decision he takes each year is how much of the first wine to make. And, over the years, quantities of the first wine have reduced significantly (down from 21,000 cases in 1982 to 8,000 in 2010) alongside improvements in quality (the chteau was one of the first to introduce stainless steel vats for vinification in 1961). The reception, on a sunny spring evening in the college cloisters, featured a Pol Roger 2002 while the finale of the evening was a candlelit dinner in the college with wines from the domain. As Prince Robert explained in his summing up at the end of the dinner, to drink Haut-Brion with someone who does not appreciate it is always sad.

My tasting notes of the wines: La Clart de Haut Brion 2009: blend of Semillon and Sauvignon, 50% La Mission Blanc, 50% Haut-Brion Blanc, just 1,000 cases made; wonderful palate length, complexity and balance. Feels extremely elegant and precise. Very good indeed. Chteau Haut-Brion Blanc 2003: a very hot year, so picked early to maintain freshness. Starting to tire a little already, the fruit has mostly faded and it lacks the weightiness and length of the 2009. Good fresh acidity. Chteau Haut-Brion 1989: still dark in the glass, with few signs of age. Incredible, complex secondary aromas of leather, bell pepper, soy and well-hung game with good fruit; wonderful freshness matched with elegance and precision. Very good indeed and then some.

Chateau Haut-Brion 1995: lots more ripe fruit on the palate and much less evolution amazingly youthful for a wine at almost 20 years and feels to have much more life left. Very good. Le Clarence de Haut-Brion 2008: this could easily be the top wine at any other tasting, but coming after the poise and refined elegance of the previous reds, it feels too young to be drinking now; lots of primary ripe fruit feels like a slap round the chops. Good. Clarendelle Amberwine 2003: lovely dessert wine with peachy, beeswax aromas, waxy texture and plenty of concentrated botrytis. Long on the palate with good fresh acidity; reminds me of a Ruster Ausbruch from Austria, but with just a touch more levity. As expressive and lithe as a ballerina. Very good.

The Cambridge dinner and, far left, Clarence Dillon. All photos courtesy of Domaine Clarence Dillon.
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Circle Update

July 2013

Gilbert Winfield on tasting with Susana Balbo, in London on 11th June 2013

A different take on Torronts

he life of a wine taster can be humdrum. You go to tastings, most of the wines are OK, you write some notes Occasionally, though, something happens that makes you say Im really glad I did that, and the seminar presented by Susana Balbo, winemaker from Dominio del Plata in Argentina, was one such moment. The Torronts and Malbecs presented that day were an eye opener (for me, at least)! The Malbecs were excellent, and, as intended, showed regional differences, but it was the Torronts that were a revelation. Those people in the UK who have heard of Torronts (and it isnt as though it has the fame of its fellow Argentinian speciality, so they are not that numerous) have seen almost exclusively the very commercial supermarket version of this grape, pleasant, but thin, with no substance, and often with a rather confected taste. That had certainly been my experience, which makes it all the more fortuitous that I attended this tasting. Susana Balbo taught me at least that Torronts is a naturally evolved crossing of Muscat dAlexandrie (which, considering its aromatics, is no surprise) with Criolla Chica (which, if you have heard of it, is). In fact, this second

Susana Balbo. Photo by Andy Christodolo (Cephas).

grape is more familiar to most as the Chilean Pas, a thin red grape. The result, she said, is a grape which maintains acidity, useful in its best habitat in Salta, from where all three we saw came, but one that is difficult to stabilise because of its richness in proteins. She makes these wines in a rich, complex style, very different from most. The first of the Torronts was Crios 2012, from Calchaquies Valley. This is unoaked, like most, but with much more depth and precision of aroma than any I have tasted. Fresh and vibrant, with floral, elder flower and ripe citrus and gooseberry aromas, reminiscent of Sauvignon, and a rich but ripe tangy acidity on the palate. Really superb. Then we had Ben Marco Torronts 2012, barrel fermented in 50% new high-toast French oak. I imagined a confected combination of boiled sweet flavours, bubble gum, and vanilla, with a harsh thin palate, but the reality was entirely different. Sure, the vibrant aromatics of the first wine
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were toned down, but what resulted was a classy, floral, caramel-scented wine, with ripe citrus and yellow peach nose, very reminiscent of Viognier, and a harmonious, rich, creamy palate refreshed by crisp acidity. We were also treated to Susan Balbo Late Harvest Torronts 2010. This is just what it says: harvested in the late autumn, selecting overripe but not botrytised grapes. It showed great balance and depth, with pineapple, spice, crystallised oranges, and a lovely ripe but tangy citrus palate, with oily richness. Susana also showed us four Malbecs from different terroirs, commercially bottled as a blend, but served individually for our tasting. All were 2012 vintage, and all produced with the same regime, featuring 10 months in light-toast new French oak. Agrelo, in Luyan de Cuyo, showed spice and dark fruit, spice and chocolate, and a sweet fruit, a big wine. Vista Flores, in Tunuyan, was more restrained and perfumed, fresher. Better balanced, in my view. Gualtallary, in Tupungato, was more syrah-like, I thought. Black cherries, a hint of aniseed, with ripe, firm tannins. Altamira, in San Carlos, was a more delicate flower: floral, elegant, with red and black fruits, firm tannins, and a fresh, Bordeaux-like style. A blend was made, according to Susanas recipe, featuring about 40% of the Gualtallary wine, for structure, and near equal amounts of the others, for diverse elements. It gave Phil Crozier, the very enthusiastic director of wine at Gaucho where the tasting took place, the chance to exercise his measuring cylinder, but I found the blend a disjointed beast 30 seconds is not a sufficient time for the flavours of four different wines to marry. Would you get your blend right the first time?, Susana was asked. Never, she replied. Theres always improvement to be made. This was clearly not the first time she had done a wine presentation, as there was little improvement to be made there. So, next time you dismiss Torronts as a frivolous variety making cheap and cheerful wines, remember that there are versions with much more interest than that.

Circle Update

July 2013

Jim Budd spends 24 hours in Champagne

A tale of two seasons

Late 2013 flowering in Champagne; below, Jean-Pierre Mareigner, chef de cave at Gosset. All photos by Jim Budd. t is difficult to imagine two springs in northern France more different than 2011 and 2013. In 2011 the flowering was amazingly early: the first signs of flowering in the Loire were in early May. In Champagne it was over by the end of May. In stark contrast 2013 saw a winter that extended well into May and even threatened a return during June, making everything very late. So late that the flowering in Champagne had only just started when I spent 24 hours there over 1st and 2nd July as a guest of Champagne Gosset. In 2011 the fine weather continued into mid-June before it broke and was replaced by cold and wet. 2013 appears to be doing the reverse with a hot July, which should have ensured that the late flowering was quickly and successfully completed. Unfortunately the recent hot weather, which has extended even up to the highlands of Scotland, has been accompanied by the almost inevitable hailstorms, with the Cte de Beaune badly hit on the afternoon of the 23rd July. In 2011 the harvest in Champagne started from 19th August the earliest start since 1822. This year the Champenoise will have no need to cancel their summer holidays as this years harvest may well not start until early

October, if you allow 100 days from the flowering to picking. Julys high temperatures, however, may have speeded things up a bit. Even so the earliest date wont be until the end of September. We met at St Pancras on the Monday morning and took the Disneyland Eurostar direct to Marne La Valle. Here, rather than troop off to meet Mickey, Donald and assorted friends, we were taken up the autoroute A4 to our hotel in Reims. This gave us time to spend a couple of hours in the Montagne de Reims having a look at the vineyards. It was noticeable that while some of the vines had begun to flower there were others that had not yet started. Dinner was with Jean-Pierre Cointreau, CEO of Champagne Gosset and Cognac Frapin, at le Millnaire. Conversation was wide ranging and included an interesting comparison between Vinexpo the 2013 edition had not long closed and ProWein. Cointreau explained that Gosset had attended ProWein from the very beginning. I hadnt realised that ProWein was created initially by Sopexa. There was little doubt that Cointreau finds ProWein more useful, but as his is a French company he also needs to be at Vinexpo as well we will go to Vinexpo for a long time. The next morning it was off to Gossets premises in
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Circle Update

July 2013

24 hours in Champagne

The entrance of Gossets elegant new premises in Epernay, and some of the cellar content. Epernay. Gosset is the oldest champagne house: founded in 1584. Then, of course, it made still wine, so Ruinart is able to claim to be the oldest producer of champagne. Until 2009 Gosset was based in Ay but in 2009 it bought the former mansion of the Trouillard family, from Laurent Perrier. Although Gosset still has the premises in Ay, the administration is now in Epernay along with a considerable amount of the stock held in the galleries underneath the house and garden. We were taken through the Gosset philosophy, some 2012 vins clairs and most of the Gosset range by JeanPierre Mareigner, who has been the chef de cave here since 1983. Mareigner owns 25 ares of his own vines 25 ares more than Gosset, which buys from 200 growers spread across 60 villages, the grapes pressed at 60 centres. Before we left to catch the train at Marne la Valle we had lunch at Hostellerie La Briqueterie. I have fond

memories of this hotel that date back to 1978 when Carole, my partner, and I took our first and only coach wine tour and stayed here. The tour was well organised by the Sunday Times Wine Club and the time was split between Champagne and Paris two nights in each if I
remember rightly. Unfortunately our return to London went with a 90-minute hitch. The Eurostar that we were due to catch from Lille Europe had broken down in Brussels and arrived 90 minutes late. Spending more than 10 minutes in the minimal Eurostar waiting room at Lille makes you start to consider that the Eurostar waiting room at Paris Nord might be palatial! My thanks to Champagne Gosset for reminding me why I have long liked its characterful and well balanced wines.
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Circle Update

July 2013

Gilbert Winfield completes a trio of tastings with IWC award-winning sak, London, 16th July 2013

The task: to reach a wider audience

he IWC award-winning sak tasting at the pleasantly cool Japanese Embassy was a welcome relief from the swelteringly hot weather radiating from the pavements of Piccadilly. Despite the limited awareness of sak among the general public, the place was heaving with sak lovers, enjoying the class and freshness of decorated, high-quality, chilled saks. Theres a feeling that the category needs to reach a wider audience, but no-one seems to know how to achieve that. Sam Harrop MW, champion of Japanese sak and one of the sak chairmen of the IWC, was effusive: What we need is to get the wine trade behind this to create sales. Its about to happen. I really hope hes right. I tasted saks from all over Japan, served by enthusiastic and helpful producers who had come all this way for this occasion: delicate, pale saks from Dewazura Brewery in Yamagata, a more intense Junmai Daigingo from Asahi Shuzo in Yamaguchi, full-bodied yet citrus Omachi rice sak from Fukuchiyo Shuzo in Saga. There were also two oddities, exotic koshu saks, aged to reveal flavours much more akin to sherry than sak: from Enoki Shuzo (The king of Koshu, according to Harrop) in Hiroshima, a Koshu Kijoshu aged for eight years, which showed amontillado sherry flavours, very nutty, and gunflint aromas, and from Katoukitchibee Shouten in Fukui, Born Koshu, aged for 10 years in French oak, with caramel, smoky and aldehydic palate with a sweet attack, yet dry finish, similar to a dry oloroso. I had never come across a sak aged so long in oak, but we are all still novices in this field, even after several years of study.

Sam Harrop MW These saks are varied, interesting drinks, worthy of a wider audience. A quick internet search gives the picture among the mutiples: Waitrose sells Sawanotsuru Deluxe Sak, with no product information other than it is made from rice and water (which is reassuring; no rocket-fuel mentioned). Tesco seems to have dropped the distinctly ordinary Choya sak it used to sell, thank goodness, but shows Doragon sak, which isnt even Japanese its made in the Netherlands. I gave up the search in despair after that. At present, a few enlightened independent retailers and western restaurants sell interesting ones, but the bulk of the sales come from the niche corner of Japanese restaurants, which puts it a way away from mainstream. An interesting market comparison is provided by Oke Nordgren, a Swedish sak importer and on the sak panel at the IWC. He has been importing wine in Sweden for ages, but discovered sak, and, after a few years dealing in both, in 2007 started devoting all his time to fine Japanese sak. He, too, sees himself on a learning curve: Since devoting myself full time to this wonderful drink, I have tasted more than 5500 saks, he said, and I am still learning. The producers, too, are learning to make saks more attuned to western palates, fruitier and fresher.
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I paraphrase, but that is the gist of it. The Swedes are more inquisitive and nerdy about wine, and this rigour has moved into sak. Go to the website of the Systembolaget, the Swedish alcohol retail monopoly, and you find no fewer than 12 different saks, both Japanese and American; and bear in mind this is a government-run, boring and oldfashioned retailer with stores in every village and town in Sweden. Sweden is still well behind the US in terms of awareness and availability, but even so it is in a different league to us. Americans include a huge Japanese population, which has driven their sak interest, but the Swedes dont; no, they have Oke Nordgren, sak champion of the Swedish wine trade, spreading the gospel to good effect. We have Sam Harrop, among others, but the gospel so far seems to have spread out from its Japanese base only to a niche of wine nerds like myself. We talk a fair amount about sak, I even present a sak tasting occasionally to interested amateurs or at the launch party of a Japanese car, but how many cars can you launch in any given year? I would love Sam to be right that sak is the Next Big Thing (he didnt say that, by the way, I just wanted to see what it looks like). The wine trade needs to rally round this wonderful, interesting product. Sure, there is customer resistance; its an acquired taste, best served with food; many people still think its a spirit; it doesnt cost 4.99 a bottle; or theyve only experienced the warmed rocket fuel previously masquerading as sak. Blossom Hill is an easier sell. Sak is a hard sell, but I have had brief moments of intellectual reward when I serve a chilled gingo-style, fragrant sak with a simple, unctuous, perfectly oily slice of salmon, and see a flash of recognition in my audiences eyes: so thats what he was banging on about! Oke treated us to a five-minute rapid-fire summary of the effects that the different operations in production have on the final taste of a sak (and there are, believe me, a lot of them; its complicated). If youre ever bored or lonely one evening, give me a call, and Ill fill your evening with sak facts, he promised. Maybe we need to take him up on his offer.

Circle Update

July 2013

Books

Stephen Quinn on creating an iBook

Its free and easy

ost wine writers have a collection of stories they have written, yet often those words gather dust after publication. Their words often sit for years on computers or in someones databases. Now free software, available since last year from Apple, offers wine writers a chance to recycle those words and make some money. Here is a recent example. My friend Annabel Jackson has been writing a wine column for a website for some years. But after her column is published, it sits in the archive of the website. Some months ago she gave me a thumb drive with a years worth of weekly wine columns. With that text I created my first iBook, using Apples iBooks Author software. Note that the software is available only for Macintosh computers. I used the software to combine Annabels words with a collection of photographs I have taken of vineyards in

China. We then made some videos of Annabel interviewing winemakers and former wine course students from Macaus Institute for Tourism Studies -- where she teaches wine appreciation. The completed iBook, which sells for 4.99, was published in early June. It is called Wine-Life Lessons and it is available at https://itunes.apple.com/us/book/winelife-lessons/id654701913?mt=11 Apple takes 30% of the price of the book and the writer gets 70%. Best to keep the price of the i-Book low. An iBook costing 4.99 could sell a lot of books. And 70% is a much better commission than the 6% to 8% I got from traditional publishers. Since June I have set up a business helping people publish their print content as multi-media i-Books. I teach them how to use the free Apple iBooks Author software on a Macintosh computer to create
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multi-media documents. And I teach them how to make the videos and other visuals that are embedded in the multimedia book. Here is a breakdown of the stages of the process: Write the manuscript. Self-edit the manuscript (if you cannot pay someone else to do it). Take and assemble photographs. Make videos (using an iPad and the iMovie app, which costs GBP 3). Use iBooks Author to assemble the book (with a primer on typography and publication design). Look at tips for publishing to the iBooks store. Choose a suitable price. Freemium? That is, should I give away a sample chapter Use social networking to market and sell your iBook. To repeat, this technology empowers wine writers to become multi-media publishers. I am available to help CWW members publish their words. Contact me atsraquinn@gmail.com Annabels book is reviewed on page 48

Circle Update

July 2013

Books

We have received a request for donations of unwanted wine books from Jonas Andersen, the restaurant manager of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia

Jochen Erler reviews a book which links to the latest CWW trip, reported on pages 7-27

A very worthy library, but it has no books

Message from Jonas: Im the restaurant manager of Gustu in La Paz, Bolivia. Gustu is founded by the Danish chef Claus Meyer (co-founder of Noma). It is a development project as well as a restaurant. Gustu Food School opened in spring 2012 and the restaurant on 4th April 2013. At the moment we have 32 students, all poor, marginalised, indigenous Bolivians. Some of the requirements for selecting the students are: minimum five members in the family, maximum one income per four members, no family savings, etc. Overall our group of students are poor, some physically or mentally disabled, some abused, some homosexual (and kicked out from home), some orphans. And they are the friendliest, most amazing, hard-working Bolivians, who want to learn everything there is to learn about food and wine. The students will work in all areas of the restaurant; kitchen, bakery, bar, waitering, events, wine sales, etc. They will also receive classes in management, entrepreneurship, law, industry history, gardening, etc. with the aim that they will be able to start their own restaurants with an understanding of the importance of all different areas. Gustu is a project by MeltingPot Foundation whose objective is pushing the Bolivian food movement equal to the Peruvian and Danish food movement. The Bolivian food movement is supported by local government as well as different embassies and NGOs in Bolivia. Denmark went through a food revolution over the last 10 years, putting focus on local ingredients, fresh innovative cooking and health, resulting in Noma being worlds best restaurant for three years in a row. Lima restaurant scene boomed under the same manifest as the Danish food movement, resulting in Lima being awarded world capital of gastronomy 2013, Astrid&Gaston climbing to No 18 on the list, etc. This movement will happen in Bolivia. We have a library on the top floor in Gustu, unfortunately without books (We have one book, The World Atlas of Wine, that Jancis Robinson MW has been so kind to send down here.) Our plan is to fill up the library with wine books, cooking books, bartending books, etc. Getting a hold of wine books is practically impossible here. I would really like the students to learn about more than Bolivian wines. It would be a massive help and support to the students if you could donate a few copies of your books to the library. If your books have been published in Spanish we would of course prefer that edition. The students are receiving English classes during their entire education, so English editions are very welcome as well. DVDs or other educational material would also be a big help. I can be contacted on JAndersen@ RestaurantGUSTU.com We hope you can help. Further reading: http://www.meltingpot-bolivia.org/ http://www.bloomberg.com/news/2013-03-08/noma-owneropens-gustu-in-bolivia-to-replicate-no-1-copenhagen.html http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/2013/jun/13/gustu-restaurantla-paz-bolivia-review If you are able to donate some books please send them directly to Jonas Andersen, GUSTU, Calle 10 no. 300, Calacoto, La Paz, Bolivia
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Of history, people and of course the wine

The World of Sicilian Wine by Bill Nesto MW and Frances Di Savino, University of California Press 24.95, 320 pages. Published March 2013. Available at Amazon for 22.45 or 19.08 for the Kindle edition It is hoped that the various reports about the Circles trip to Sicily will generate interest in learning more about the wines of this island. Here is the right book to do so. The World of Sicilian Wines consists of two books in one. Its first 80 pages, written by Frances di Savino, a student of the culture of Italy, are devoted to the history of Sicily, with emphasis on the importance of wine in the social and political life of the Sicilians. The chapter about the development of co-operatives in Sicily highlights their role in the EUs failed struggle to contain the wine lake in Europe by distilling the overproduction of wine. The main part of the book was written by Bill Nesto MW, an expert on Italian wine. He describes the wineries and their wines, the different wine growing areas and the influence of some winemakers from mainland Italy. All the wineries visited and all the grape varieties encountered by our group are discussed in detail by the author.

Circle Update

July 2013

BooksBooksBooksBooksBooks
News
Neville Blech is using Kickstarter to raise money to finance a new printed version of Wine behind the Label. The last printed version was in 2008 but there have been subsequent downloadable versions. From Neville: Many people have been asking me when the printed version ofWine Behind The Labelwill return. Well, it will, as soon as we can garner enough money to cover the costs of producing it. I have launched a campaign through Kickstarter and with your help, you will be among the first to own the latest edition of this highly acclaimed insider guide to the best wine producers in the world. To see what it is all about, go to http://www.kickstarter. com/projects/1704172512/wine-behind-the-label-9thedition-revised-and-upda Further reminder from Neville: With just a few days left before the deadline (10th August) for this campaign, I would like to draw your attention to the BIG rewards. These are the 500 pledge (limited to 20) and the 1,000 pledge (limited to 10) Apart from getting your 10 copies of the book and 10 copies of the e-book, the cellar management CDROM, etc., there is also the opportunity for two people to attend the Launch Party (the 500 pledge) and the Launch Party AND the five-course dinner for two (the 1,000 pledge). Food will be created by Sonia Blech, the first woman in the UK to win a Michelinstar. I have stated on the rewards page that you will have a chance to sample some of the fruits of our labour. That is of course, some decent wines. Some will be at the party and some at the dinner, but here is a list of what we intend to trot out: Ch. Anglus 2005, Les Astiers 2005, Neville Blech Ch. Loville Barton 2000, Branon 2000, LApparita 1996, Cardinale 1997, Lokoya Howell Mountain 1997, Marajollia 2004, Phelps Insignia 1991, La Spinetta Barbaresco Valeirano 1999, Ch. Rol Valentin 2004, Stags Leap Wine Cellars Fay Vineyard 1997, Ch. Valandraud 2000, Roberto Voerzio Barolo Brunate 1999, Roberto Voerzio Barbera Pozzo dellAnnunziata 2000, Stonestreet Legacy 1996, Clos Nardian 2005, Gosset Grande Rserve Champagne, Ch. Rabaud Promis 2003, Bauduoin Coteaux du Layon Maria Juby 1997. If you think this cuts the mustard for you then do go tohttp://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1704172512/winebehind-the-label-9th-edition-revised-and-updaand press the green button!
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Recently published
Members James Hallidays Australian Wine Companion 2014, Hardie Grant Books, 22.99, 768 pages, pbk. The 2014 edition features 4009 full tasting notes, and ratings, drink-to dates and prices for a further 2207 wines. If youre a member of WineCompanion.com.au, the new tasting notes are available now on the website. There are 1396 winery profiles, including 94 new wineries; there is a listing of the best wineries of each region in three grades. This is complemented by the best of the best wines by variety, and a new feature: Wine of the Year. Annabel Jackson: Wine-Life Lessons, MOJO Media Insights, 4.99, 51 pages. Available from iTunes. Videos and photos by Stephen Quinn. This interactive book is a selection of Annabels writings about wine. It is based on questions she encountered while teaching wine appreciation in Hong Kong and Macau from 2006-13. It includes video interviews with winemakers, including Eddie McDougall and Tersina Shieh, and her students. Subjects include learning to smell, encounters with acidity, vanilla flavours and oak, strength of a wine and what is tannin. Benjamin Lewin MW: Claret & Cabs: the Story of Cabernet Sauvignon, 45 ($47.30), 500 pages Claret & Cabs surveys the nature of Cabernet Sauvignon and its blends from everywhere it is grown, ranging from the history of Bordeaux to the challenge of the New World. Extensively illustrated with colour photographs and maps, Lewin analyses the changing character of Cabernet Sauvignon, the differences between pure varietals and blends, and the styles of different regions. The book includes profiles of leading producers and has tasting notes from current and past vintages as well as vintage assessments. http://www.vendangepress.com/ClaretFrontFlap.htm

Circle Update

July 2013

Books

Mark Ridgwell: Spirits Explained, Mixellany, 12.95, 287 pages, pbk. After an initial chapter on the principles of distillation, there are chapters on explaining vodka, tequila, gin, other flavoured white spirits, rum, brandy, liqueurs, eaux-de-vie, Irish whiskey, American, Canadian, Japanese and Scotch whisky. At the end of each chapter there is a quiz. In 1999 Mark set up Taste & Flavour, which is a network of expert speakers on spirits. For the book his advisors included Nicholas Faith and Ian Wisniewski.

Forthcoming titles
August Pierre Galet: Dictionnaire des Cpages et de leur synonymes, Ellbore Editions/Sang de la Terre, 98. In French, this is effectively a complete update of Galets Dictionnaire encyclopdique des cpages published in 2000. Now 93, Galet has updated this in conjunction with the publisher. September Stephen Beaumont and Tim Webb: Pocket Beer Book 2014, Mitchell Beazley, 12.99. Dalwhinnie Scotch whisky distillery. Photo by Jim Budd iPad Mini through Apples iBookstore at 14.99 and will be followed by several more to complete, update and extend Inside Burgundy. (Inside Burgundy: The Annual Report 2014 will be published in November.) This is the second in a series of interactive eBooks following on from the Cte de Beaune. For Cte de Nuits, Jasper Morris has been tramping world-famous grand cru vineyards to plot an entirely new departure: five neverbefore-seen, interactive plans that show precisely where each wine estate has its vines. Jasper comments: It was a fascinating task, working out who owned which plot. The most challenging was Richebourg where figures quoted by other authors on how holdings were split between the two parts of the vineyard, Richebourg and Veroilles, didnt seem to add up logically. So I prowled round the vineyard and was able to discern the exact detail of each plot by the differing viticultural practices of, for example, one member of the Gros family compared to another. Anorak stuff perhaps, but deeply satisfying. The Cte de Nuits includes new videos and interactive maps.
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Non-members
Tony Abou-Ganim and Mary Elizabeth Faulkner: Vodka Distilled, Agate Surrey, $22.95. The first part of Vodka Distilled is dedicated to explaining the history, context, styles, and method of production for vodka. The middle part of the book features 28 vodka cocktails including the Cosmopolitan, Moscow Mule, Bloody Bull, and the Vesper. It concludes with profiles and reviews of different kinds of vodka. Tim Federle: Tequila Mockingbird: Cocktails with a Literary Twist , Running Books, $15, 160 pages. The idea is to connect classic cocktails with classic literature The Postman Always Brings Ice, Vermouth the Bell Tolls, and 100 Beers of Solitude. There is also a section of non-alcoholic drinks Franois Morel: Pierre Galet: LAmplographie de Terrain By Ellbore Editions/Sang de la Terre, 38. In French, a biography on the life and above all the work of the ampelographer Pierre Galet. Accompanied by a set of CDs of recent recorded interviews with Galet. http://www.sangdelaterre.fr/pierre-galet--l-ampelographiede-terrain_135_126.html Jasper Morris MW: The Cte de Nuits eBook, Berry Bros & Rudd. This interactive book is available now on iPad and the new

Oz Clarkes Pocket Wine Book 2014, Anova Books Nicholas Faith: The Story of Cognac, the greatest Brandy in the world, Infinite Ideas. This is the third, thoroughly revised, edition of Nicks book on Cognac, previously published by Mitchell Beazley, and will be published by Infinite Ideas as part of its series on wine and spirits, following on Port and the Douro by Richard Mayson. Hugh Johnsons Pocket Wine Book 2014, Mitchell Beazley. October Tim Hampson: World Beer, DK, 20. Hugh Johnson and Jancis Robinson MW: World Atlas of Wine (7th edition), Mitchell Beazley, 40, 400 pages. Adrian Tierney-Jones: 1001 Beers, Octopus, 20, 960 pages. Updated edition. 2014 April Lauren Johnson-Bell: Climate Change and Wine, Burford Books in New York. There should also be a UK edition in 2014.

Circle Update

July 2013

Other news

Media
Drinks writers run Ardbeg Half Marathon in memory of Alan Lodge A team of more than 20 drinks writers and representatives of Scottish whisky distillery Ardbeg are to take part in the annual Islay Half Marathon on 3rd August to help raise money for the National Brain Appeal in memory of Alan Lodge of The Spirits Business who died from a brain haemorrhage aged just 29 last year. Runners include: Chris Losh, editor of Imbibe, Richard Siddle, editor of Harpers, Olly Wehring, editor of justdrinks.com and Richard Woodward, freelance drinks writer. To donate: http://uk.virginmoneygiving.com/fundraiser-web/ fundraiser/showFundraiserProfilePage.action?userUrl=The ArdbegHalfMarathon_AlanLodge&isTeam=true or http://bit. ly/17OZHPc http://www.harpers.co.uk/news/drinks-writers-run-ardbeghalf-marathon-in-memory-of-alan-lodge/347663.article or http://bit.ly/16cTK9c http://www.harpers.co.uk/news/drinks-writers-run-ardbeghalf-marathon-in-memory-of-alan-lodge/347663.article Louis Roederer International Wine Writers Awards 2013 shortlist On Wednesday 10th July the Roederer Awards judging panel met at the Maisons Marques et Domaines headquarters in London to discuss in detail their scores for the entries in the Louis Roederer International Wine Writers Awards 2013. Despite a series of computer crashes, late nights and weekends spent marking to ensure all the scores were ready on time, the panel were alert and sharp-witted and spent a number of hours in good-humoured debate as to whose submissions were worthy of making it on to the shortlist for 2013. Charles Metcalfe, chairman of the judges, concluded: We had more entries this year than ever before and the
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Deaths
Peter Lehmann,18th August 1930 - 28th June 2013 Peter Lehmann, the Baron of the Barossa, member of the Order of Australia and pioneering figure in the Australian wine industry, died peacefully in hospital on 28th June after a long illness at the age of 82. Born in Angaston, Barossa, Peter worked for Yalumba and Saltram wineries before setting up his own business in 1979 in a bold move to protect the threatened livelihoods of many Barossa grape growers. When Australias bulk wine market collapsed in 1982, Peter rallied again by embracing the bottled wine business and creating Peter Lehmann Wines. Today this business works with over 140 growers across the Barossa Valley to produce a range of more than 40 wines. During his time at Saltram, Peter was among the first to react to a growing consumer demand for fruity white wines, a focus he continued to develop under his own label with the help of chief winemaker Andrew Wigan, who worked with Peter from 1976 onwards. Read the rest: http://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2013/06/ peter-lehmann-dies-aged-82/ 28th June, 2013 by Gabriel Savage See also: http://www.decanter.com/news/winenews/584127/obituary-peter-lehmann http://www.guardian.co.uk/lifeandstyle/2013/jul/11/peterlehmann

sheer quality of the entries in several categories made for lively debate before we decided on the winners. The effort put in by such a distinguished panel of judges mirrored the quality of some of the submissions and there was a remarkable degree of unanimity in the scoring, although picking the overall winners was a lengthier task. By lunchtime, the shortlist was agreed upon and the judges were rewarded with a glass of Louis Roederer Cristal 2005 followed by a delicious lunch at Chez Bruce which was complemented by the wines from 2013 category sponsors Domaines Ott, Ramos Pinto, Domaine Faiveley and Meerlust Estate. An invitation-only awards ceremony will take place to announce the winners at the Royal Academy of Arts on Tuesday 10th September 2013. This year's shortlist: Category 1 the Artistry of Wine Award 2013 Rocco Ceselin (roccostudio.net) Matt Wilson (http://www.mattwilson.cl) Alisdair Nicol (http://coastalinsight.com) Jon Wyand (http://www.jonwyand.co.uk) Alain Proust (www.alainproust.com)

Circle Update

July 2013

Other news

Michel Joly (http://micheljoly.viewbook.com) David Eley (http://www.agoodnose.com) Category 2 Meerlust Estate Emerging Wine Writer of the Year 2013 Simon Woolf various from www.timatkin.com / www. palatepress.com / www.themorningclaret.com Lucy Shaw articles from www.drinksbusiness.com Ella Lister articles from www.finewinemag.com Rupert Millar articles from www.drinksbusiness.com Evan Dawson articles from www.palatepress.com Category 3 Ramos Pinto Online Wine Columnist / Blogger of the Year 2013 Blake Gray articles from www.palatepress.com Alex Hunt articles from www.jancisrobinson.com Kate Thal articles from www.greenandbluewines.com Sarah Abbott articles from www.timatkin.com Robert Joseph - articles from www.timatkin.com Joe Wadsack articles from www.joewadsack.com Category 4 Domaine Faiveley International Wine Book of the Year 2013 Pomerol Neal Martin Sherry, Manzanilla & Montilla: A Guide to the Traditional Wines of Andalucia Peter Liem and Jesus Barquin Wine Grapes Jancis Robinson MW, Julia Harding MW, Jos Vouillamoz The Finest Wines of Germany - A Regional Guide to the Best Producers and Their Wines Stephan Reinhardt Bordeaux Legends Jane Anson Category 5 Domaines Ott International Wine Website of the Year 2013 www.timatkin.com entered by Tim Atkin MW www.thewinedoctor.com entered by Chris Kissack www.wine-pages.com entered by Tom Cannavan www.wineanorak.com entered by Jamie Goode www.palatepress.com entered by David Honig www.wine-searcher.com entered by Rebecca Gibb

Category 6 International Wine Columnist of the Year 2013 Tim Atkin MW columns from Off Licence News Michael Fridjhon columns from Business Day, South Africa Francis Percival columns from The World of Fine Wine David Schildknecht columns from The World of Fine Wine Tom Bruce-Gardyne columns from the Glasgow Herald Nina Caplan columns from the New Statesman Category 7 International Wine Feature Writer of the Year 2013 Margaret Rand various features from The Drinks Business/Decanter/World of Fine Wine John Stimpfig The Financial Times, How to Spend It Tim Atkin MW various features from Imbibe/Decanter/ The World of Fine Wine/Gourmet Traveller Wine Jamie Goode various features from The World of Fine Wine/Nature Michael Edwards The Drinks Business Joanne Gibson Classic Wine, South Africa The panel of judges Charles Metcalfe (chairman), Susy Atkins, Neil Beckett, Andrew Jefford, Anthony Rose, Patrick Schmitt

Bordeaux) becomes vice president of the CIVB. With his brother, Farges runs the 95-hectare estate Chateau De LEnclos in the Entre Deux Mers, which is vinified by the local co-op. Companhia Das Quintas appoints Worontschak as group winemaker Companhia Das Quintas (CDQ) has appointed John Worontschak as group winemaker on a consultancy basis to oversee production in the groups six winemaking facilities. CDQ has a wide-ranging portfolio and sells more than 500,000 cases of wine per year. Worontschaks role will be to work with the separate winemaking facilities to craft wine styles for export and to consolidate production facilities, working closely with the sales and marketing department. He began his new role this month in preparation for the 2013 harvest. Fladgate buys Wiese & Krohn The Fladgate Partnership has purchased the brand, stocks and vineyard holdings of Wiese & Krohn in a deal that includes exceptional stocks of aged tawnies and colheitas dating back to 1863, plus Quinta do Retiro Novo in the Rio Torto Valley in the Douro. Wiese & Krohn has been owned and run by the third generation of the Falco Carneiro family. Its stocks include around 5 million litres of port, which are currently stored in six cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia and one in the Douro. Following the purchase, these stocks, its operating systems and the team at Wiese & Krohn will be fully integrated into The Fladgate Partnership.

Trade notices
New president for CIVB Producer Bernard Farges, 49, was elected president of the Bordeaux Wine Council (CIVB) at the councils general assembly on 15th July 2013. In accordance with the constitutional status of the CIVB, Bernard Farges will take the lead of the interprofessional council for a three-year term. He succeeds Georges Haushalter, a ngociant. Allan Sichel, president of the Bordeaux Trade Federation (Fdration du Ngoce de
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Circle Update

July 2013

Noticed on the net

Some bits and pieces on the net that have caught the editors eye. In the main these are extracts with the URL given for the full item. (You may need to copy and paste some of the longer URLs)
Sauvignon Blanc lost at sea Wine Spectator, 18th July 2013 Ageing wine under the sea has been a trending fad in recent years, but the ocean seems to be getting more than its intended share of New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. Last year, the 775-foot, 50,000-ton cargo ship Rena wrecked off the coast of New Zealand, taking down 4,000 cases of Astrolabe Sauvignon Blanc with it. Now an even larger cargo ship, MOL Comfort, has broken in two off the coast of Yemen and sunk with thousands of cases of Saint Clair Family Estate Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir aboard. http://www.winespectator.com/webfeature/show/id/48692 La consommation franaise de vin en CRH LAmour du Vin, 22nd July 2013 Rcemment, le C10 a ralis une nouvelle tude sur des internautes majeurs ayant au moins une fois dans lanne consomms dans un CRH (caf, htel, restaurant). Ce sondage permet de distinguer quelle consommation en fonction de lge, du sexe ou bien encore de la rgion. http://www.lamourduvin.com/blog/le-monde-du-vin/chiffresconsommation-francaise-en-vin-lamour-du-vin.html First wine co-operative in France to be classified national heritage Jane Anson, Decanter.com, 19th July 2013 Les Vignerons de Tavel, a co-operative cellar in the rosonly appellation of Tavel, has become the first wine cooperative in France to be declared part of Frances national heritage for its architecture. http://www.decanter.com/news/wine-news/584173/ first-wine-cooperative-in-france-to-be-classified-nationalheritage Wine grape prices strengthen Alex Sampson,weeklytimes now, 23rd July 2013 Wine grape production in the Southern Hemisphere is up and wine grape prices have strengthened, according to Rabobanks Wine Quarterly report. The 2013 Australian wine harvest is estimated at 1.83 million tonnes, up 10 per cent on last year. Chile, South Africa and New Zealand are expected to harvest record crops. Rabobank senior analyst Marc Soccio said the extended heat wave at the beginning of the year had little effect on the crop in hot inland regions that contributed roughly 60 per cent of what will be the largest crop in five seasons. http://www.weeklytimesnow.com.au/ article/2013/07/23/577534_horticulture.html rages! dsespoir! le blog de Vincent Pousson, 23rd July 2013 QuandMto Francea publi son alerte orange, il tait malheureusement trop tard. Lorage, les orages frappaient depuis une demi-heure dj la Cte dOr, en loccurrence, un des fleurons de son vignoble, la Cte de Beaune, du nord de Meursault Aloxe-Corton. De la grle et de
52

la pluie mle, selon les premires informations (ce qui pourrait tre unmoindremal car la grle sec fait toujours des dgts plus importants). Beaucoup deau galement, des trombes deau, comme le montrent ces images queNicolas Rossignola prises dans ses vignes de Volnay, et du vent. http://ideesliquidesetsolides.blogspot.com.es/2013/07/ orages-o-desespoir.html Nayan Gowda winemaker without portfolio Jancis Robinson/FT, 20th July 2013 (but this is longer) Nayan Gowda is 42 and one of a new breed of latecomers to the world of wine. He came back to his native England in 2007 after four years immersion in an oenology degree in Australia and is still living out of a suitcase. He is not proud of this. Ladies prefer a more stable gentleman, I know, he comments ruefully. Since learning the ropes of winemaking at the relatively mature age of 35 he has overseen vintages in Australia, New Zealand, Germany, Hungary, England, France, Ukraine and Kazakhstan. Ukraine was fun. Kazakhstan was not. He was essentially engaged to turn around a vanity winery there. When he arrived, he found the tanks that should have been ready for that years harvest filled with the last three vintages. The owner was a politician who saw wine as a way to the top. Having registered the names of the president and his family as wine names, the politician asked Nayan if he thought he could make a fair copy of the presidents favourite wine. Nayan said he thought he probably could, and was then told the presidents favourite wine was Petrus... http://www.jancisrobinson.com/articles/a201307101.html Castel loses trademark infringement case in China Nina Fan Feng, Decanter.com, 18th July 2013 French wine merchant Castel has lost its lengthy legal battle over the companys trademark in China. The case was a trademark infringement lawsuit brought against Castel by the Chinese wine distributor Panati Wine (Shanghai) Co Ltd regarding the Chinese trademark

Circle Update

July 2013

Noticed on the net

Kasite, the phonetic rendition of Castel in Chinese. http://www.decanter.com/news/wine-news/584172/castelloses-trademark-infringement-case-in-china In contrast Chteau Ausone and Barrire Frres have both recently won trademark cases in China. http://www.decanter.com/news/wine-news/584186/ chateau-ausone-wins-trademark-case-in-china A walk in the Savoie vineyards Brett Jones, the Wine Maestro, 23rd July 2013 For the last six yearsVins de Savoie, this year celebrating the 40th anniversary of becoming anAOC (appellation dorigine contrle),have organised the annualLa Balade Gourmandedans les Vignesin a different wine region within Savoie. We were invited to join a group of journalists to accompany more than 2000 other participants on a very hot Sunday in July. http://www.thewinemaestro.co.uk/5034/a-walk-in-thesavoie-vineyards/ Chablis part 3, Geoffroy, Moreau, Sguinot-Bordet and more Richard James, winewriting.com, 1st July 2013 On-foot has been regrettably dropped from Chablis: final destination 3..., as predictably more efficient transport was required this time to spread the net a little wider. See Chablis on foot part 1: Chablis Wine Awards and Chablis on foot part 2: Droin, Chablisienne, Long-Depaquit, Fvre for previous ramblings around Chablis and catching the drift. http://www.winewriting.com/2013/07/chablis-part-3geoffroy-moreau-seguinot.html Is wine expertise illusory? Jamie Goodes wine blog, 26th July 2013 Theres been a lot of chat, of late, on whether or not wine expertise is illusory. The media loves the idea that the wine trade is an elaborate fraud, perpetuated by people who are more-orless making it up when they taste wine. People outside the

wine trade find the idea that experts cant tell the difference between cheap and expensive wines quite hilarious. and somewhat reassuring: if the experts cant tell the difference, then neither can we, they think, and this means that theres no need to be spending lots of money on expensive bottles. The Emperor has no clothes. http://www.wineanorak.com/wineblog/wine-science/is-wineexpertise-illusory Au restaurant, les clients prfrent le vin au verre La Revue du Vine de France, 4th July 2013 Daprs une rcente tude, les 2/3 des clients des cafs htels restaurants choisissent le vin au verre au dtriment de la bouteille entire. Les Franais prfrent largement prendre unverre de vin( 64%) au restaurant plutt quune bouteille de vin(27%). Cest la conclusion qui ressort dune tude mene rcemment pour le compte du rseau C10 spcialis dans la distribution de boissons en htel-restaurant. Le phnomne saccentue avec les jeunes gnrations, puisque les moins de 25 ans plbiscitent le verre 77% quand les plus de 50 ans sont 32% rester fidles la bouteille. Parmi les explications cette tendance, les consommateurs mettent en avant la moindre prise de risque (43%), la volont de boire modrment (31%) et la possibilit de tester plusieurs vins (20%). http://www.larvf.com/,restaurant-vinverre,2001118,4314399.asp?xtor=EPR-2 Pinault of Chteau Latour buys Napa estate Nick, Bordeaux Undiscovered, July 29th 2013 Chateau Latours owner, Franois Pinault, has purchased the 65 hectare Araujo Estate in Napa. Araujo lies in the north east Napa Valley, just east of Calistoga and dates back to 1884. It had been owned by the Araujo family since 1990 and Michel Rolland was their consultant oenologist. http://bordeaux-undiscovered.co.uk/blog/2013/07/pinaultof-chateau-latour-buys-napa-estate-a-look-at-latoursexpanding-empire/
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Kmmel: A little of the Muirfield spirit Will Lyons, The Wall Street Journal, July 11th 2013 On the wild, windswept dunes of Scotlands ancient links courses there is one ritual that helps the amateur golfer ward off first-tee jitters. The secret lies not with the order in which they set up their clubs, nor with a glass of malt whisky, but in a slightly curious, aniseed-flavored spirit whose origins lie near the Baltic Sea. Known in local golfing circles as the putting mixture, Kmmel has been served in the clubhouses of some of Scotlands most venerated courses for decades. http://online.wsj.com/article/SB1000142412788732485370 4578587402768615418.html?KEYWORDS=WILL+LYONS Wine quality: Talking the elusive vin de terroir blues Randall Grahm: Been Doon So Long, July 22nd 2013 Ive been asked to talk about the somewhat abstract notion of quality... Of course, every winemaker or winery owner thinks about or should be thinking about quality in some sense, but I believe that any discussion of quality should have a context and arise from a larger value system or a philosophical aspiration. I tend to think about quality in a very immediate existential sense, ie it is that elusive thing you must figure out how to express in your wine, lest you perish rather sooner than later. Certainly, these days, it seems that unless you are on an upward trajectory of wine quality, you are likely doomed (or in my instance, dooned) to the slag-heap of wine history. The only other alternative, it seems, is to find an ascendant rapper who happens to be particularly sweet on your sacchariferously over-achieving red wine and let nature take its course. http://www.beendoonsolong.com/2013/07/wine-qualitytalking-the-elusive-vin-de-terroir-blues/ Keeping sheep in vineyards after bud break Paul Franson, Wines & Vines, July 29th 2013 Holistic farming advocate tells Napa Valley Graperowers sheep can trim vines www.winesandvines.com/template. cfm?section=news&content=119732

Circle Update

July 2013

Your diary...
My thanks to the WSTA Wine Trade Diary and to the various companies who have sent in details of their forthcoming tastings. All venues are in London unless otherwise stated. Please remember that a listing in Your Diary does not constitute an invitation. Members will naturally wish to wait for an invitation or to contact the organisers for one. Due in part to the time it takes to transfer the information from the WSTA diary into Circle Update, and the increasing number of Circle members who live outside the UK, we are reducing the number of UK tastings listed. We will concentrate on generic tastings and wine shows. The WSTA Trade Diary is also now available as a free iPhone app. The WSTA can be contacted on 020 7089 3877. The interactive wine trade diary is available at www.wsta.co.uk August 31st: Sud de France Joie de Vivre Festival, South Bank, London. Details: http://www.festival-suddefrance.com September 3rd: Berry Bros & Rudd, Italy Grand Tour 2013 Tasting, Lindley Hall, Vincent Square, London, from 14:00. 4th: Fells annual tasting, One Great George Street, London. Michele Collingham: mc@fells.co.uk 4th: Decanter Awards presentation dinner, Royal Opera House, London. Emma Salter: emma_salter@decanter.com 4th: Liberty Wines premium Australia tasting. events@libertywines.co.uk

5th: Media tasting the 2013 Cape Winemakers Guild Auction. Kate Jonker: kate@capewinemakersguild.com 6th: Aldi press tasting: alditeam@clarioncomms.co.uk 9th: Circle of Wine Writers Casa Lapostelle tasting, Naval Club, London 10th: Liberty Wines portfolio tasting, Oval Cricket Ground, London. Fran De Paoli: events@libertywines.co.uk 10th: Awin Barratt Siegel Wine Agencies portfolio tasting, One Great George Street. Lesley Gray: lg@abswineagencies.co.uk 10th: Louis Roederer International Wine Writers Awards presentation. Marie Laurent-Trammell: marni@mmdltd.co.uk 11th: Jascots autumn press and trade tasting, Royal Society of Chemistry, Burlington House, London. jascots@westburycom.co.uk 11th: Laithwaites wine press tasting. fiona.galtens@laithwaites.com 11th-12th: The Beautiful South generic tasting: Argentina, Chile and South Africa 17th: SITT Autumn, RHS Lindley Hall, London. Julie Cresswell: Julie@sitttastings.com 17th: Institute of Masters of Wine 60 anniversary dinner
th

23rd: Absolutely Cracking Wines from France. Ysaline Godet: ysaline.godet@sopexa.com 24th: Thorman Hunt autumn tasting. Delphine Brua: delphine@thormanhunt.co.uk 24th: The Wine Society press tasting. Victoria Morrall: victoria@dillonmorrall.com 25th: WSTA annual conference. Louise Vaux: louise@wsta.co.uk 25th: The Dirty Dozen. www.dirtydozentasting.co.uk 25th: Lea & Sandeman portfolio tasting 26th: Bunch tasting. Anna Bell: anna.bell@corneyandbarrow.com 26th: Pays dOc press & trade tasting. Chloe Delanne: chloe.delanne@westburycom.co.uk 27th: Mot Hennessy autumn tasting. Mary Rochester Gearing: rsvp@mhuk.co.uk 27th: Wines from Spain Awards 2013 tasting. Alison Dillon: Alison@dillonmorrall.com 30th: Hatch Mansfield, BAFTA, 195 Piccadilly, London. Rachel Hollinrake: rachelhollinrake@hatchco.uk October 1st: Wines of Sicily tasting, Altitude, Millbank Tower, London SWIP 4QP.. 1st-2nd: Waitrose autumn press tasting. Bethan Davies: bethan_davies@waitrose.co.uk 7th: The Three Wine Men, The Parc Hotel, Cardiff. Sarah Johnson: sarah@jkmarketing.co.uk 9th: Wines from Rioja. Lowri Robjohn: lowri.robjohn@thisisphipps.com 9th: Morrisons wine event. morrisons@focuspr.co.uk 10th-11th: M&S autumn press tasting

18th: Craggy Range ten years of Te Muna. Rebecca Fraser: rebecca.fraser@louislatour.co.uk 19th: Crus Bourgeois 2011, 11 Carlton House Terrace, London SW1Y 5AH. 10:30-17:00 Seminar in morning by Stephen Brook register with Louise Hill. Approximately 200 wines from Mdoc, Haut-Mdoc, Listrac-Mdoc, Moulis en Mdoc, St Estphe, Margaux, Pauillac and St Julien. Louise Hill: louise@phillips.co.uk. 19th: Armit Wines annual tasting. Rhian Rosser: rrosser@armitwines.co.uk 19th: VDP Rheingau tasting
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Circle Update

July 2013

Your diary

14th: Les Caves de Pyrne, Spanish tasting. Amy Morgan: pr.events@lescaves.co.uk 15th: ASDA autumn winter press tasting 16th: Sainsburys winter press tasting. Emma Hurley: emma.hurley@sainsburys.co.uk 18th: Majestic Wine press tasting. Emma Raper: eraper@majestic.co.uk 21st: Great Sherry tasting. Angeline Bayley: angeline@bespokedrinksmedia.com 22nd: Fizz, The Sparkling Wine Show. Ben Campbell-Johnston: ben@campbell-johnston.com 22nd: France Summit 2013. summit.registration@wrbm.com 23rd: Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux 2011 vintage. Sue Glasgow: sue@spearcommunications.co.uk 24th: Tesco autumn press tasting 25th-27th: EWBC Return to Rioja conference. ewbc.vrazon.com/a-return-to-rioja-for-ewbc-2013 25th-27th: The Food & Drink Show, Kings Hall Pavilions, Belfast. Details: http://foodanddrinkshowni.com/ 29th: Berry Bros & Rudd, autumn portfolio tasting, Pickering Cellar, 3 St Jamess Street, London, 09:0015:00 November 2nd: The Three Wine Men, Leeds. Sarah Johnson: sarah@jkmarketing.co.uk 5th: New Zealand new release tasting, London. Sarah Shepherd: sarahs@nzwine.com 7th: Institute of Masters of Wine annual claret tasting 11th: Louis Jadot 2012 en primeur tasting. Rachel Hollinrake: rachelhollinrake@hatch.co.uk

23rd-24th: Three Wine Men, Manchester. Sarah Johnson: sarah@jkmarketing.co.uk 28th-30th: Interwine China 2013, Guangzhou (South China). Katharina Eifel: Katharina@merebo.com December 2nd: CWW Christmas party, Swiss Ambassadors residence 3rd-4th: International sparkling wine symposium, Denbies Wine Estate, Dorking, Surrey, UK. Speakers include Essi Avellan MW, Tom Stevenson, Richard Smart, Maurizio Zanella, Olly Wehring and Jan Konetzki. Fully inclusive tickets 345: www.sparklingwinesymposium.com 7th-8th: The Three Wine Men, London. Sarah Johnson: sarah@jkmarketing.co.uk 2014 January 8th: Liberty Wines Burgundy tasting. Alessandra Andreani: events@libertywines.co.uk 14th: Charles Taylor Wines: 2012 Burgundy tasting. Louisa de Faye Perkins: Louisa@charlestaylorwines.com 14th-15th: French Wine Discoveries tasting. Anne-Catherine Vigouroux: cricket@wine4trade.fr 15th: Corney & Barrow Burgundy tasting 20th: WSTA awards and presentation ceremony. 21st: New Zealand annual trade tasting, London. Sarah Shepherd: sarahs@nzwine.com 22nd: Liberty Wines annual portfolio tasting 23rd: New Zealand annual trade tasting, Dublin. Sarah Shepherd: sarahs@nzwine.com 27th-29th: Millsime Bio, Montpellier 30th: Wine Australia trade tasting. Emma Harrison: emma.harrison@wineaustralia.com
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February 3rd-5th: Salon des Vins de Loire, Angers. www.salondesvinsdeloire.com 4th: Austrian annual trade tasting. Caroline Lloyd: London@advantageaustria.org 6th: French Independent Wine Growers, London. Lysanne Desroches: lysanne.desroches@ubifrance.fr 24th-26th: Vinisud, Montpellier. www.vinisud.com/index.php/en March 3rd: France Under One Roof 3rd-5th: Bordeaux Vinipro, new fair featuring wines from South West France to run on alternative years to Vinexpo. Details: http://www.bordeaux-expo.com/en/ourevents/trade-events/1716-bordeaux-vinipro.html 5th: Wines of Portugal annual tasting, Lindley Hall, London. Emma Overall: emma@cubecomm.co.uk 17th: California Wine annual tasting 20th: 25th Wines from Spain annual tasting 23rd-25th: Prowein, Dusseldorf 28th-30th: International Wine Tourism Conference and Workshop 2014, Tbilisi, Georgia. April 10th-14th: Vinitaly, Verona 30th: Emerging Regions tasting June 2nd-4th: London Wine Trade Fair, Olympia