4l80e Teardown Rebuild and Installation

4L80E TEARDOWN REBUILD and INSTALLATION
Thread Tools 01-242012, 06:29 PM black00ssF L TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro And my 4L80E swap begins Well, to give a background of my story, here's a link to my thread I made when I blew my engine back in November of 2010. Bittersweet night at gville raceway, updated dyno results on new engine To make it short, I blew my stock ls1. Then, after it sitting for a few months I decided to pick up a shortblock on craigslist. After getting it in I found out it had a spun rod bearing. After taking it to the machine shop and getting a quote on fixing that, I got a great deal on an LQ4 shortblock. I added milled heads and a cam and have been running that for awhile now. I then found out I bent the 31 spline strange axles I had launching at 6000 rpms. After finally getting a new set from strange, I decided that sticking with an M6 would be costly. So I sold my t56 setup and am now piecing together a 4L80E setup. The purpose of this thread is to give a play by play of my experience in this swap. There's a few writeups on tech for the swap, but I haven't seen but a few that are geared toward the budget minded of us. I'm gonna try to do this as cheaply as possible, but still having a reliable setup. I'll keep a running tally on this thread of my actual costs for EVERYTHING involved, so those out there wanting to know what it'll take to do this with a budget will have some sort of reference to go by. I'll keep updating the original post when I make new purchases and post the cost. 4L80E $200 ATSG rebuild manual $26.88 Flexplate and Spacer $55 Search this Thread #1
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994
HPTuners $499 MWC 4l80e crossmember $160 Jake's transbrake $450 RevMax Stage 5 Converter $760 making it work with '98 computer $20 Used Direct Drum $90 34 element sprag $46 New reverse band $29.75 various gaskets/seals $53.82 Shifter switch plug $40.27 Th400 Slip yoke $50 Tranny coolers $50 Madman dipstick $85 Misc. wiring supplies $45 Powder coat case $125 Hose/clamps for cooler $50 14 quarts fluid $65 I'll be going with a stock 4l80e (or rebuilding stock one myself). If it needs a rebuild, I'll attempt it myself and picking up a ATSG manual off of Ebay to help along the way. I'll be using a transbrake setup from Jake. I'll be tuning with HP tuners using my '98 pcm and wiring help from Slow67. For the converter, I'm leaning towards getting a non billet lockup from Revmax more than likely to help with cost and the fact I'll only push around 550whp if I go with nitrous. I'll be using a custom crossmember from MWC. I'll be getting a used flexplate and spacer. And probably pick up a lokar dipstick. Today I picked up a 4L80E local that I found on Craigslist. I got it for a whopping $200! It's supposedly a '92 and came from a van. But, it has a full slip yoke (not the bolt on), and has been rebuilt (so probably has new wiring). It is missing a few pump bolts that they "borrowed" for another transmission. It was supposedly running fine when pulled. However, I'll be taking a look at things once I open it up when I install Jake's transbrake. Here are some pics. As I bought her
01-242012, 10:26 PM
#2
DarkFox11 subscribing with a meaningless post. 8 TECH Enthusiast I guess yours will be a bit different than mine in that you have a T56 now, I'll be going from a 60 to an 80, but still.. useful information incoming. Garage is empty, add now
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01-24-2012, 10:30 PM RARON455 TECH Fanatic 1998 Pontiac Trans Am
#3 did this swap last year, didnt do a budget swap though, I spent alot of coin on the best trans and parts I could get.. If you run into a headache, PM me and I will do my best to help... __________________ 1998 white T/A callies stuffed 383 (built by ME), prc heads, ported fast 92, EPS
cam,morels,and the rest of the goodies,pushed by a QTP ford 9" Jakes performance 4l80 with transbrake and tcs billet converter.
Trader Rating: 35 Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Fort Worth Texas Posts: 1,603
Never save anything for a special day, THIS day the Lord has given IS special.
01-24-2012, 10:36 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Quote: Originally Posted by DarkFox118 subscribing with a meaningless post. I guess yours will be a bit different than mine in that you have a T56 now, I'll be going from a 60 to an 80, but still.. useful information incoming.
#4
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct Quote: 2006 Location: Ocala, FL Originally Posted by RARON455 Posts: 994 did this swap last year, didnt do a budget swap though, I spent alot of coin on the best trans and parts I could get.. If you run into a headache, PM me and I will do my best to help... Thanks! __________________
Hoping it will be useful to someone. If I do indeed rebuild this myself, plan on a lot of pictures and a novice writeup on it.
1998 Camaro Z28 4L80E Sold
01-25-2012, 10:16 PM Cam72aro TECH Fanatic Garage is empty, add now
#5 You will love it when its done. I know you already saw my thread so we will see who is in the swap cheaper, lol. Good luck __________________ 02 T/A 408 l92 heads, nw 102mm. strange 12 bolt, 4l80, circle d 3600 gt91 turbo Strange 4.10 12 bolt gear for sale pm me if interested.
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Pearland, Tx Posts: 1,364
01-26-2012, 02:19 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Quote:
#6
Camaro
Originally Posted by Cam72aro You will love it when its done. I know you already saw my thread so we will see who is in the swap cheaper, lol. Good luck Thanks! Yup, your thread help me decide that this could be done for almost the price I'm getting for my T56 setup. This could turn out to be a nice competition, lol.
Also just sent the money for 4L80E flexplate and spacer Trader Rating: 24 __________________ Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994
01-30-2012, 01:29 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro
#7 Alright, did some ordering today. Picked up Hp Tuners from lethal racing ($499, plus $129 for wideband but you don't need the wideband for this swap), Jake's 4l80e transbrake setup ($450 shipped, tax time sale), MidWest Chassis 4L80e crossmember ($160 shipped, returning customer discount :-) ), and after talking to a few converter places I'm told my only real option with a transbrake and nitrous in the future is to go with a Billet setup. Ended up going with a RevMax Stage 5 Billet converter with 4,000 stall ($725) which will more than handle what I'll be doing.
Now I just need to figure out the wiring harness issue. There's a couple sponsors that sell m6->4l80e harness, but they're all $200 or so. Not quite wanting to spend that Trader Rating: 24 much for just a harness. Anyone know of anything cheaper? Join Date: Oct __________________ 2006 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994
01-31-2012, 05:52 PM cabel1 11 Second Club Garage is empty, add now Get a stock auto harness. That's what I did
#8
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01-31-2012, 05:58 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident
#9 The transmission came with the plug and a good amount of wire left on it. Just gonna get wires and pins and extend them myself and make my own harness.
1998 Chevrolet Camaro
__________________
Trader Rating: 24 1998 Camaro Z28 4L80E Sold Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994
01-31-2012, 06:15 PM LongIsland63SS40 9 Launching! Garage is empty, add now Nice post so far Thanks for sharing. Looking forward to your progress. Mike __________________ www.lidragracing.com
#10
Trader Rating: 9 Join Date: May 2010 Location: Long Island, NY Posts: 200
#11 And I guess I can throw the "budget" aspect of my build out the window, lol. Going with the transbrake and the billet converter kinda did that. However, getting a standard "shift kit" (jake's valve body kit is only $110) and a non-billet converter ($300-450) can really take some costs out. I guess the actual cost of the transmission is the only thing left that's actually "budget" now. __________________
#12 Got the pedals in today. Also got the manual and jake's transbrake in the mail. Also got a nice surprise from jake too. He threw in some pump bolts I needed and a set of direct clutches (he knew I would be rebuilding this on my own and I asked him what are some common things that'll need to be replaced). Rest of my week is busy, so it looks like I'll probably get to tearing the tranny down next week. __________________
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 994
02-022012, 10:39 PM black00ssF Here are pics of what i got today L TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro
#13
02-032012, 12:48 AM DarkhorSe_ GL man... SS __________________ TECH GO SPURS GO...99, 03, 05, 07 CHAMPS Fanatic Garage is empty, add now
#14
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02-03-2012, 08:13 AM
#15
DarkFox118 TECH Enthusiast Garage is empty, add now
You're gonna do the rebuild yourself? wow.. I've only been inside a 60E one time (indirectly at that.. I was watching a guy rebuild one..) I have even less idea how it works in there than I did before I saw him work on it. Good luck man! Really tho.. for $200, it's worth a learning experience. Though I doubt you'll have any trouble with it.. __________________ If you don't think I'm strange yet you don't know me well enough.
Trader Rating: 5 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Douglasville, GA Posts: 590
#16 A trans is simple if you keep the parts that come out in order. Take something out put it on the left side of the table then work to the right. Keep assemblies together until you are ready to work on it. Then finish it and go to the next. Take pictures etc. I have never been into an 80, but have done th400's 350's glides, 60's etc. I will eventually do my 80 when the time comes. Good luck op. __________________ 02 T/A 408 l92 heads, nw 102mm. strange 12 bolt, 4l80, circle d 3600 gt91 turbo Strange 4.10 12 bolt gear for sale pm me if interested.
02-03-2012, 03:55 PM LongIsland63 SS409 Launching! Garage is empty, add now Quote:
#17
Originally Posted by Cam72aro A trans is simple if you keep the parts that come out in order. Take something out put it on the left side of the table then work to the right. Keep assemblies together until you are ready to work on it. Then finish it and go to the next. Take pictures etc. I have never been into an 80, but have done th400's 350's glides, 60's etc. I will eventually do my 80 when the time comes. Good luck op. Exactly breakdown into sub assemblies. When you get stuck, post and the knowledge on this site will get you thru it. Mike __________________ www.lidragracing.com
02-04-2012, 12:00 AM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro
#18 So canceled class + wife hanging out with a friend tonight = me tearing down the 4L80E. Like promised, I took pics of the whole process. I must say though, for $200 I got this thing at a steal. Everything looks great and the clutches look like they were barely used. I haven't gone into the direct drum yet to see what kinda sprag I have. It was much more simple than I thought it would be. The main thing is to stay organized and label things as you go. Anyways, on to the pics/procedure for dis assembly. First of all I highly recommend this manual. The pics and diagrams made taking this thing apart a breeze.
02-042012, 12:01 AM
#19
black00s Next up I removed the TCC/PWM solenoid screen and the intermediate servo assembly. I sFL simply pulled the screen out with some small needle nose pliers. And the servo is simply pulled TECH Resident out. 1998 Chevrole t Camaro
02-042012, 12:02 AM black00s Next up was pulling the forward clutch housing sFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrole t Camaro
#20
Page 1 of La 123> 9 s
Thread Tools 02-042012, 12:03 AM black00s Finally I removed the reverse band assembly. sFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrole t Camaro
Search this Thread #21
02-042012, 02:32 AM eLiT3SnI pEz TECH Enthusia st Garage is empty, add now Great thread man! Word of advice for future reference, removing the parking pawl is not necessary, it's perfectly fine to just keep it in there, it's much less of a hassle that way.
#22
Also, for removing the pump, instead of having to use two pry bars on both sides of it to get it out it comes out quite easily with one pry bar if you use it behind the pump, by sticking it down in the case from behind. There's a little bit of a gap that's perfect for it. Look at the bottom of your picture, just a little down and to the right of that bottom oil pan bolt hole. Please, please, please, don't call it a turbine shaft lol, I don't know why, but I just hate it when it's called that for some reason. It bugs me every time I read it like that For the gasket shit that you used a razor blade on. One thing you can do if available to you is put in a really hot parts washer and let it do it's thing. That alone won't really take it off, but once you let it dry, it becomes much easier. I recommend buying a pumice stone, 2-3 cans of brake cleaner, fine grit sandpaper and some rubber gloves. If you plan to paint the case to make it look really nice (which I would recommend just because) then clean it very well with brake cleaner and a wire scrubber. An air hose is VERY handy to have for that, but not necessary. Use brake cleaner and the pumice stone in nice, even, but firm, strokes on the case valve body. It smoothes the surface, and a practice used by professional transmission builders Once it's all nice and clean, let it wait for about a day, then paint that case, nice and evenly. Be careful with the inside of the bellhousing, and try not to get it inside the case. Once the case is dry, take the sandpaper and sand around the edges of the case, and any excess paint that may be on there will come right off. The edges I'm referring to are like this
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All around the edges where the oil pan gasket goes, then go up and do the front facing edges of the bellhousing and what not, know what I mean? Once you've done that, BLOW THE FUCK OUT OF THAT CASE. If you can, or if you know someone who has a compressor, air hose the hell out of that case, inside and out. Be sure to spray brake cleaner in the inside as well and then blow stuff out of it. It may seem like some annoying prep work but you will have a spotless prepared case that would keep up with or outdo many professional builders. A lot of normal general transmission repair shops don't give a damn, some won't even change your seals on transmissions of yours that they're rebuilding. It's the little things that set it apart. I also recommend using the brake cleaner on the pump and the valve body. Not sure how thorough your kit is for the rebuild, but it should come with new seals and bushings. Once you've taken your pump apart, use a chisel and a hammer (or a flat head and a hammer) and take the seal off the pump face. Since this is a budget build I assume you don't want to buy a seal puller lol. For removing and replacing the bushings, the only method I can recommend with confidence is buying (and then returning ) a bushing driver. Some people might tell you to use the hammer and chisel again to remove the bushing, I say avoid that because you risk damaging the pump bore.
If you don't know, this is a bushing driver kit Basically it's these little metal pieces that look like donuts with a lip on the out part of them. They come in different sizes depending on the bushing size, and the sizes are marked on each "donut". You can tell the proper size by seeing which one perfectly catches the lip of the old bushing and doesn't really give any play. Put the driver into the "donut" and hammer it out. Spray inside the bore with brake cleaner. Once it dries (should be pretty quick) carefully line up your new bushing and double check your driver size. Hammer it in, make sure that you don't go so far the lip of the bushing stick into the pump AT ALL. It would really suck hard if the pump gears caught onto the bushing lip. There's a slightly beveled edge on the inner face of the pump bore if you're looking at it with the inside facing up towards you. Make the bushing is even and is a hair lower than where the bevel ends. I can try to snag you a photo next week of what I mean. Spray the insides of both of the pump halves and use the pumice stone on them again, same deal. Use the pumice stone on the valve body as well, the back side as well. Recommend using an air compressor if you can to clean it. Pretty much an air compressor is the best damn thing you can have to clean and dry transmission parts. Once you've cleaned all of your parts, (do this as thoroughly as you can, gonna need more brake fluid cleaner since you don't have a cleaning area with chemicals and brushes and what not. Brake cleaner is VERY strong though and can do shit most transmission cleaner can't, so it's quite good. Once your parts are all cleaned, and your case is ready, I highly recommend stacking the transmission.
Basically, take a vice clamp and tightly secure your yoke. Build your transmission like that, starting with the output shaft, low ring gear, intermediate shaft, low gearset, snap right etc. Build it all the way up to the pump. It takes a little more time, but it does 2 things 1) You have a better idea of how it's all going to go in the case and it's a nice little bit of practice 2) It helps you look at everything and make sure you didn't leave something out, it's easy to forget something like a thrust washer or a bearing etc. Stacking ensures you got all of your shit straight before actually putting it in the case. Use plenty of Transgel and be careful seating the pistons! Don't chew up the lips! You might also want to buy a feeler gauge (they're dirt cheap, like a couple of bucks) to check your clutch pack clearances, among other things. You're also going to need to find a way to compress the springs that you pulled from things like the direct drum etc.
02-04-2012, 08:28 AM LongIsland63SS40 9 Launching! Garage is empty, add now Great progress and info! Thanks for sharing! Mike __________________ www.lidragracing.com
#23
#24 A lot of good info there elite! I didn't remove the whole prawl, just the bracket. And yes a full cleaning of the case is in order. Luckily I just bought a case of brake cleaner last week when advance auto had a bogo free sale. And my shop has a 6hp/80 gallon compressor :-) .
Keeping the budget aspect in mind. I wasn't planning on a full rebuild unless I needed it. The main reason for opening it up was to instal the transbrake and check for obvious wear/damage. That being said, would it be necessary to replace the bushings if they are in good shape? I haven't bought a rebuild kit yet, as I was waiting to see the condition first. Would I be ok with just a basic kit that replaces Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 just mostly the seals?
Location: Ocala, FL __________________ Posts: 994
02-04-2012, 12:55 PM eLiT3SnIpEz TECH Enthusiast Garage is empty, add now Quote:
#25
Originally Posted by black00ssFL A lot of good info there elite! I didn't remove the whole prawl, just the bracket. And yes a full cleaning of the case is in order. Luckily I just bought a case of brake cleaner last week when advance auto had a bogo free sale. And my shop has a 6hp/80 gallon compressor :-) . Keeping the budget aspect in mind. I wasn't planning on a full rebuild unless I needed it. The main reason for opening it up was to instal the transbrake and check for obvious wear/damage. That being said, would it be necessary to replace the bushings if they are in good shape? I haven't bought a rebuild kit yet, as I was waiting to see the condition first. Would I be ok with just a basic kit that replaces just mostly the seals? Perfect! You are very well equipped to clean this bad boy 100%. Use the air blower on every thing! Word of advice again, when cleaning anything with planetaries (the little spinning gears), do not blow on the planetaries directly to the point that they start spinning EXTREMELY fast and they make a little high pitched whooshing sound. It wouldn't be necessary but it can't hurt. A lot of rebuild kits will come with bushings, and if it were me, I'd buy a kit that has all new seals, clutch packs (highly
recommended High Energy OEM packs, not Red Altos), new steels, bushings, and gaskets. It might be an extra couple hundred dollars but it is highly recommended, as this will extend the life of your transmission and enable it to hold more power than it could with the old stuff. You said you bought Jake's Transbrake right? If so, you're going to need to do a few hydraulic modifications for it, which will also benefit your transmission. Read all this -> http://jakesperformance.com/4L80_T-b...struction.html I know I know I know it sucks ass to go over what the budget originally intended and it may seem like paying more money for more hassle, but it really truly is worth knowing that your transmission will easily outlast your engine.
02-04-2012, 02:42 PM White.Lightning TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 52 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 2,532 Great write up man! In for updates and to learn something.
#26
I'll be doing an 80e swap later this year, but I am sourcing my trans from a builder. Good luck! __________________
1998 T/A Mods/Pics
02-04-2012, 04:29 PM
#27
black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro
I'm really debating on just leaving this as is. Just do the modifications I need for the transbrake, putting in the new direct clutch pack, and just putting it back together. It really looks like this thing was gone through just before it was taken out of the vehicle it came from. I can snap pictures next time I'm out there and show everyone. The thrust bearings looked great and the clutches barely looked used with no hotspots.
Labor is not a problem for me. I have a "shop" with a couple friends where we have a tranny jack and lift. Wouldn't take but a couple hours to pull it out if I needed to do a proper rebuild. I know it'll be easier to do it now, but it looks fresh as is. I compare it Trader Rating: 24 to tearing down a 2,000 mile engine, but replacing everything in it since it's open Join Date: Oct anyways (I know that's not a direct comparison since there are parts/bolts that can't 2006 Location: Ocala, FL be reused during assembly). __________________ Posts: 994
02-04-2012, 04:54 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Just found this little gem, http://mattw2.dyndns.org:81/pics/Clo...wTo/index.html
#28
Nice little writeup on rebuilding it. I do have one question though. Looks like he was able to do everything without special tools, except for the 4th clutch lip seal installer. Is there a way to install the 4th piston and roller clutch without tearing up the seals? __________________
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994 1998 Camaro Z28 4L80E Sold
02-05-2012, 08:58 AM White.Lightning TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 52 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 2,532 I've had this thread bookmarked for a while now: http://helpwrench.com/forums/showthr...amp-pictures-1 Lots of info in there as well __________________
#29
1998 T/A Mods/Pics
02-06-2012, 09:11 PM eLiT3SnIpEz TECH Enthusiast Garage is empty, Quote:
#30
add now
Originally Posted by black00ssFL Just found this little gem, http://mattw2.dyndns.org:81/pics/Clo...wTo/index.html Nice little writeup on rebuilding it. I do have one question though. Looks like he was able to do everything without special tools, except for the 4th clutch lip seal installer. Is there a way to install the 4th piston and roller clutch without tearing up the seals? You definitely don't need special tools. The only things I can think of right now are a special device to compress the springs on the direct drum and forward drum so you can take the snap ring off and put the snap ring back on. You do need a lip seal installer for the pistons. There is more than one piston that needs to be installed, all of them have seals. You MUST use some kind of lube, either transmission fluid or Trans-Gel, and use the lip seal installer to properly seat them. It can be tricky, especially for your first time and you can damage seals fairly easily if you're not careful. Always start with the lip seal installer on the inner seal of the piston, then outer. Not sure what you mean about installing the low roller clutch without tearing up the seals. It just drops into place in the reaction carrier, very simple and no seals to worry about I haven't read the whole guide but there are two things the guy does I highly do not recommend. #1 Don't twist the pistons into place and "use the lip sealer tool if necessary" that's a good easy way to damage the seals, trust me. If it could be done like that, there would be no need for lip seal installers. The seals could easily catch on the walls of the drum and tear. #2 Don't bother taking apart the springs, since I'm guessing you are not using the Transgo kit. I notice he does a few things I differently, but that's on him I suppose. Definitely gives you a pretty good idea of what's what and what to do.
02-06-2012, 09:47 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Quote:
#31
Originally Posted by eLiT3SnIpEz You definitely don't need special tools. The only things I can think of right now are a special device to compress the springs on the direct drum and forward drum so you can take the snap ring off and put the snap ring back on. You do need a lip seal installer for the pistons. There is more than one piston that needs to be installed, all of them have seals. You MUST use some kind of lube, either transmission fluid or Trans-Gel, and use the lip seal installer to properly seat them. It can be tricky, especially for your first time and you can damage seals fairly easily if you're not careful. Always start with the lip seal installer on the inner seal of the piston, then outer. Not sure what you mean about installing the low roller clutch without tearing up the seals. It just drops into place in the reaction carrier, very simple and no seals to worry about I haven't read the whole guide but there are two things the guy does I highly do not recommend. #1 Don't twist the pistons into place and "use the lip sealer tool if necessary" that's a good easy way to damage the seals, trust me. If it could be done like that, there would be no need for lip seal installers. The seals could easily catch on the walls of the drum and tear. #2 Don't bother taking apart the springs, since I'm guessing you are not using the Transgo kit. I notice he does a few things I differently, but that's on him I suppose. Definitely gives you a pretty good idea of what's what and what to do. You're slowly but surely convincing me to do the whole rebuild myself, lol. I have an array of hand clamps (the type he used) and c clamps, so I think I can throw something together to compress the springs. And yes, no transgo kit, so no need to
take apart the springs. It would be a simple seal and clutch replacement. __________________
02-06-2012, 09:53 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Quote: Originally Posted by White.Lightning I've had this thread bookmarked for a while now: http://helpwrench.com/forums/showthr...amp-pictures-1 Lots of info in there as well Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994
#32
Yup, that's in my bookmarks as well. That one is a little more common and has come up on a few searches that I've done on rebuilding these things. I just found the link I posted after doing some more in depth searching. __________________
02-072012, 05:13 PM black00s Ok, got a little work done today, got some parts in the mail, and found a problem. sFL TECH Resident First up, new parts! Got the flexplate, spacer, and bolts. 1998 Chevrole t Camaro
#33
02-072012, 05:20 PM black00s sFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro
#34
Also, I'm stuck on a decision on what to do for the cooler. I got a couple offers in the air right now to buy some used coolers, then having to fab up my own lines and fittings for the tranny. Or, there's an all in one kit on Jeg's website that includes a nice B&M cooler and AN lines/fittings. http://www.jegs.com/i/B-M/130/70266K...rentProductId= I'd probably spend about $75-100 on a used cooler, fittings, and hose to make it work, but it won't be AN lines like the kit above. I think it's almost worth the extra bucks just to have the nice cooling with the secure lines. __________________
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: 1998 Camaro Z28 4L80E Sold Ocala, FL Posts: 994
02-07-2012, 10:53 PM eLiT3SnIpEz TECH Enthusiast Garage is empty,
#35 Case looks super clean man! I was going to come in here and chime in that I would also recommend a 34 element sprag, but it looks like you already beat me to it! lol.
add now One thing to remember when putting the race back on the drum after you've installed the sprag, the race must NOT be able to turn counter clockwise. IT should only be able to spin clockwise. That mean you put the race on backwards, so if that happens just take it off and flip it over and try again Trader Rating: 1 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Haltom City, TX Posts: 621 Again, be super careful with the piston installation! Can you see how the walls of that direct drum would just love to fuck with you and tear up your lip seals? Make sure your lip seals are facing the correct way as well!
#36 Errgghhh. I'm still Torn on what to do about the cooler. I know the case is 1/4 NPS thread. However, there is a consensus that 1/4 NPT will work as long as you don't gorilla torque it down and crack the case. That being said, I can pick up a 11x6x1 1/2 B&M cooler and some hose for $30, then I'd just need some more hose, 1/4 NPT to barb fittings, and some hose clamps to make it work. That might be close to around $50. OR I can just get a kit like the one I posted above but spend about $170. I don't think the cost is worth it for the 1% chance I have that a cooler line could pop off. I'd double clamp the fittings as well. Any input from anyone? __________________
02-08-2012, 11:08 AM White.Lightning TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 52 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 2,532 I'm going all out on my cooler..... (1) 11x11 B&M bar/plate cooler w/ 1/2 NPT female connections http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70274/ (1) Flex-A-Lite 10" fan http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FLX-390/ (2) 1/2 NPT to 6AN fittings http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220649/ (4) 6AN hose ends http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220690/ (15') 6AN hose http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-230615/ (1) 4L80e rear trans cooler fitting- w/ 3/8 NPT http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-00046340a.htm (1) 6AN to 3/8NPT steel fitting, 90 degree, welded to above (after clocked) http://www.summitracing.com/parts/AER-FBM2620/ (1) 4L80e front trans cooler fitting http://www.transmissionpartsusa.com/...-00035340b.htm (1) 6AN to 1/4NPT steel fitting, 90 or 45 degree (not sure yet), welded to above http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FRA-582206/
#37
So basically its a 6AN hose, converting to 1/2NPT at the cooler. The trans fittings apply to the later model 4L80's with the trans cooler holes further apart. The older style case has the trans cooler holes kind of right next to one another. When using the newer style case, you really need to fab this 90 degree fitting to have enough room. Some have tried to bend a steel tube and it makes me cringe. Looking at your pics, it appears you have the older style trans case and will not need to purchase those 90 degree steel fitting and weld them. You should just be able to grab a 2nd set of AN to NPT fittings to plug into the trans case. If I'm spending all this money on a 4L80 conversion, might as well do the cooler right since it will keep the trans alive.
ETA: Mightymouse thought of the rear fitting idea a while ago.... i finally found the perfect 4l80 rear fitting And his build thread: my 4l80/yank/supercooler/m6 conversion __________________
1998 T/A Mods/Pics Last edited by White.Lightning; 02-08-2012 at 11:14 AM..
02-08-2012, 11:10 AM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Quote: Originally Posted by White.Lightning If I'm spending all this money on a 4L80 conversion, might as well do the cooler right since it will keep the trans alive. This is the thought my mind keeps coming back to __________________ Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994
#38
02-08-2012, 11:16 AM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro BTW, looking at your list, I think this will make life easier http://www.sweetperformance.com/prod...&productId=496
#39
That'll get rid of some of the complications of adapting the cooler fittings to AN lines. __________________
02-08-2012, 11:18 AM White.Lightning TECH Addict
#40 ^^^^ Sweet! Thanks for the link. I just need to make sure a 90 degree hose end will
Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 52 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 2,532
have enough room to be installed. ETA: A reliable source said there is NOT enough room to run those adapters and a 90 degree hose end. Oh well. Back to Mightymouse's proven method! __________________
1998 T/A Mods/Pics
Page 2 of Last <1 2 3 4 > 9 Thread Tools 02-08-2012, 11:47 AM JRENIGAR TECH Resident Garage is empty, add now Search this Thread #41 Damn, you have been busy. I have built a couple of 60's before and they are quite a bit different on the inside from this 80 your doing. It looks much more heavy duty in the gears, clutches, and everywhere else. I wonder where the fine line is between the 60 and 80 for holding hp and what the weight between the two are? Does it use more hp to run than the 60? Sorry to hijack, now I will go ... __________________ 99 Z-28, A4, 3.23, Hooker Lt's,custom oryp, custom cb, ls6 intake, ported TB, Intercooled Vortech v9-g trim, Racetronix pump n harness, Siemens 60's, dyno tune, 450/438.
Trader Rating: 4 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Wynne,
ar Posts: 843
02-08-2012, 11:53 AM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Quote:
#42
Originally Posted by JRENIGAR Damn, you have been busy. I have built a couple of 60's before and they are quite a bit different on the inside from this 80 your doing. It looks much more heavy duty in the gears, clutches, and everywhere else. I wonder where the fine line is between the 60 and 80 for holding hp and what the weight between the two are?
Does it use more hp to run than the 60? Sorry to hijack, now I will go ... Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 ....waits for Jake or Slow67 to jump in.... Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994 But, the 80 is nothing like the 60. The 80 is based off the Th400 and many parts interchange. The actual weight difference according to Jake from Jake's transmission is about 30-40lbs dry and with no converter. Being that my 9.5" is not really different in weight than what would go in a 60, I can deal with that weight increase. __________________
02-08-2012,
#43
12:09 PM DarkFox118 TECH Enthusiast Garage is empty, add now whats the comparison from a t56 to an 80? (assuming your weight comparison is from a 60 to an 80 that is..) So it looks like for people going from ls1/60 to LQ/80 they'll be picking up about 120 pounds.. or 1 light passenger on their vehicle weight. Not bad really when you consider the abuse the 80 can take, and the budget power potential from an iron block lsx motor. __________________ If you don't think I'm strange yet you don't know me well enough.
Trader Rating: 5 Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Douglasville, GA Posts: 590
02-08-2012, 12:36 PM JRENIGAR TECH Resident Garage is empty, add now
#44 Would an 80 from a 6.5 diesel engine work or would it have to be from a gasser? Reason Im asking is I can get the trans in working condition for $150-$200. __________________ 99 Z-28, A4, 3.23, Hooker Lt's,custom oryp, custom cb, ls6 intake, ported TB, Intercooled Vortech v9-g trim, Racetronix pump n harness, Siemens 60's, dyno tune, 450/438.
Trader Rating: 4 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Wynne, ar Posts: 843
#45 Yes, you probably won't have the 12 o'clock bolt hole to bolt up to an LS engine. But that's not really an issue to worry about. __________________
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 1998 Camaro Z28 4L80E Sold 2006 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994
02-08-2012, 12:46 PM JRENIGAR TECH Resident Garage is empty, add now
#46 Sounds good, I just didnt want to buy a trans that wouldnt work as this would be for a future build. I havent needed to do any research on this issue but the opportunity just presented itself today. I probably have little time to act on it if ya know what I mean. Thanks... __________________ 99 Z-28, A4, 3.23, Hooker Lt's,custom oryp, custom cb, ls6 intake, ported TB, Intercooled Vortech v9-g trim, Racetronix pump n harness, Siemens 60's, dyno tune, 450/438.
Trader Rating: 4 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Wynne, ar
Posts: 843
#47 In general '91-up works as long as they're not from a Jaguar, lol. There's just little differences that need to address depending on which one. __________________
02-08-2012, 09:11 PM eLiT3SnIpEz TECH Enthusiast Garage is empty, add now
#48 I cleaned and packaged up your drum for you today, and because I'm such a nice guy I even drilled the hole in the drum for you for the dual feeding process I'm looking forward to seeing this build progress! The weight difference between the 60e and the 80e is about 35 pounds. Not sure what JRENIGAR means about the fine line between the two transmissions holding power.
Trader Rating: 1
Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Haltom City, TX Posts: 621
02-08-2012, 09:24 PM JRENIGAR TECH Resident Garage is empty, add now Quote: Originally Posted by eLiT3SnIpEz I cleaned and packaged up your drum for you today, and because I'm such a nice guy I even drilled the hole in the drum for you for the dual feeding process I'm looking forward to seeing this build progress!
#49
Trader Rating: 4 Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Wynne, ar Posts: 843
The weight difference between the 60e and the 80e is about 35 pounds. Not sure what JRENIGAR means about the fine line between the two transmissions holding power. I was trying to say, If you have xxx hp and the 60 goes bye bye, should you invest in a 80 or just rebuild the 60 to hold said hp? Ok, will a modded 60 hold 600rwhp reliably or is say 525-550rwhp the majic # to where there isnt much more to do to keep the lil sucker from going out again? Would 550rwhp be a good # to invest in an 80 and all the extra work involved or can the 60 churn right along with no sweat at that hp? Damn, I almost think "Im" drunk, but Im not... Me words right now. Kids, "Just Say No"... __________________ 99 Z-28, A4, 3.23, Hooker Lt's,custom oryp, custom cb, ls6 intake, ported TB, Intercooled Vortech v9-g trim, Racetronix pump n harness, Siemens 60's, dyno tune, 450/438.
02-08-2012, 10:19 PM
#50
Quote: Originally Posted by eLiT3SnIpEz I cleaned and packaged up your drum for you today, and because I'm such a nice guy I even drilled the hole in the drum for you for the dual feeding process I'm looking forward to seeing this build progress! The weight difference between the 60e and the 80e is about 35 pounds. Not sure what JRENIGAR means about the fine line between the two transmissions holding power.
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct Sounds great!! Haha, didn't even put two and two together that you were the same 2006 Location: Ocala, FL guy I talked to on the phone yesterday. It makes sense with your knowledge of these transmissions, lol. I'll be sure to keep this going and updated every step of the way. Posts: 994 __________________
02-08-2012, 10:38 PM
#51
Jake's Performance Quote: LS1Tech Sponsor Garage is empty, add now Originally Posted by eLiT3SnIpEz I cleaned and packaged up your drum for you today, and because I'm such a nice guy I even drilled the hole in the drum for you for the dual feeding process I'm looking forward to seeing this build progress!
Trader Rating: 1 Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 770
The weight difference between the 60e and the 80e is about 35 pounds. Not sure what JRENIGAR means about the fine line between the two transmissions holding power. The hole in the drum is a bleed to prevent centrifugal apply and speed transbrake release. It has nothing to do with dual feeding. __________________ GM Racing Automatics from the company that designs the parts, not just another parts assembler. www.jakesperformance.com Racing Automatic Transmission Tech www.race-trans-tech.com
02-09-2012, 12:28 AM eLiT3SnIpEz TECH Enthusiast Garage is empty, add now Quote:
#52
Originally Posted by black00ssFL Sounds great!! Haha, didn't even put two and two together that you were the same guy I talked to on the phone yesterday. It makes sense with your knowledge of these transmissions, lol. I'll be sure to keep this going and updated every step of the way. lol nah man, that was Mike, our shop manager. He knows about 50 billion times more than me about transmissions, I'm fairly new myself to be honest, a greenhorn you could say. I mostly breakdown transmissions, ship stuff and do other general things while putting along with my training. An extreme crash course in transmission training that still takes many months if not years. As you know breakdown is the easy part, putting it back together and CORRECTLY, is the challenge. That's why I'm excited to see your thread go along, we're both kind of learning together. I figured I'd just throw my little pieces of tips and reminders to help you out there! Quote:
Originally Posted by Jake's Performance The hole in the drum is a bleed to prevent centrifugal apply and speed transbrake release. It has nothing to do with dual feeding. As you can see, boss man here helps me quite a bit along the way, and I have quite a long road ahead of me, despite all that I have learned. Couldn't ask for a better teacher though!
02-112012, 09:29 PM black00s sFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrole t Camaro
#53
Was out at the shop for most of the day. Did a few transmission related things, but most of my time was spent cleaning up the undercarriage of the car (long story, but there's undercoating all under it that makes it look nasty. Anyways, started to make my own wiring harness using the plug that came with the tranny.
02-122012, 09:50 AM Cam72ar o TECH Fanatic Garage is empty, add now
#54
The only thing I would have done was upgrade to the later style plug. Otherwise it looks like you got it going your way. I drove mine to and from work yesterday. Put about 40 miles on it. I am getting the motor and trans tune slowly but surely to where I want it. I love being able to put the shifter in drive and it shift on its own. Its almost like my truck but with about 450 more hp, lol. You stomp it in 4th and it downshifts to 3rd and boost comes up and the car goes. I know I am on borrowed time with my junkyard 80, but when it starts slipping I will pull it apart and fix whats broken. Between this thread and the links its helpful information. Keep the info coming. Josh __________________ 02 T/A 408 l92 heads, nw 102mm. strange 12 bolt, 4l80, circle d 3600 gt91 turbo Strange 4.10 12 bolt gear for sale pm me if interested.
02-12-2012, 09:54 AM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet
#55 I agree about the plug, but didn't realize it was the later style until I started looking for the wiring/colors/location on the diagrams I have. But it is a budget build and it
Camaro
will work this way, lol. __________________
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ocala, FL 1998 Camaro Z28 4L80E Sold Posts: 994
02-12-2012, 10:00 AM Cam72aro TECH Fanatic Garage is empty, add now Budget my arse, lol. Mine is budget, but yours will be done right once. __________________ 02 T/A 408 l92 heads, nw 102mm. strange 12 bolt, 4l80, circle d 3600 gt91 turbo Strange 4.10 12 bolt gear for sale pm me if interested.
#56
02-12-2012, 10:02 AM
#57
Quote: Originally Posted by Cam72aro Budget my arse, lol. Mine is budget, but yours will be done right once. Haha, budget as in I'm not paying for a $3,000+ 4l80e and can almost do it for the price of the 6 speed parts I sold. __________________
02-12-2012, 10:17 AM Cam72aro TECH Fanatic Garage is empty, add now Quote:
#58
Originally Posted by black00ssFL Haha, budget as in I'm not paying for a $3,000+ 4l80e and can almost do it for the price of the 6 speed parts I sold. I gotcha. Mine was budget as in as cheap as I could do it. __________________ 02 T/A 408 l92 heads, nw 102mm. strange 12 bolt, 4l80, circle d 3600 gt91 turbo
Trader Rating: 24 Strange 4.10 12 bolt gear for sale pm me if interested. Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Pearland, Tx
Posts: 1,364
02-12-2012, 10:21 AM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Quote: Originally Posted by Cam72aro I gotcha. Mine was budget as in as cheap as I could do it.
#59
I was thinking of doing the same thing as you...but I kept thinking, lol. I wanted a shift kit and saw jakes VB kit. Then I saw his transbrake setup which includes the VB mods for not much more money. Then I decided I might wanna run nitrous. The combination of nitrous and the transbrake brought me out of the realm of a budget converter and had to go billet, lol. That's most of my build right there. For the cost of Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 just the transbrake I could of had both a decent converter and the VB kit. But, it's a Location: Ocala, FL good thing I went with the transbrake, or I wouldn't have opened up the tranny and seen the cracked direct drum! At least I'm saving money on an actual rebuild and Posts: 994 making my own wiring harness! __________________
02-12-2012, 10:48 AM Cam72aro TECH Fanatic
#60
Garage is empty, add now
Quote: Originally Posted by black00ssFL I was thinking of doing the same thing as you...but I kept thinking, lol. I wanted a shift kit and saw jakes VB kit. Then I saw his transbrake setup which includes the VB mods for not much more money. Then I decided I might wanna run nitrous. The combination of nitrous and the transbrake brought me out of the realm of a budget converter and had to go billet, lol. That's most of my build right there. For the cost of just the transbrake I could of had both a decent converter and the VB kit. But, it's a good thing I went with the transbrake, or I wouldn't have opened up the tranny and seen the cracked direct drum! At least I'm saving money on an actual
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Pearland, rebuild and making my own wiring harness! Tx Posts: 1,364 Things happen for a reason. It would have sucked to put it together and it not go into gear or be slipping. I am very lucky that mine works. Screw nitrous go procharger or turbo. I am considering selling my procharger eventually and going 91mm turbo. I guess I like working on this heap, lol. __________________ 02 T/A 408 l92 heads, nw 102mm. strange 12 bolt, 4l80, circle d 3600 gt91 turbo Strange 4.10 12 bolt gear for sale pm me if interested.
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Thread Tools 02-12-2012, 12:57 PM eLiT3SnIpEz TECH Enthusiast Garage is empty, add now Quote:
Originally Posted by Cam72aro Things happen for a reason. It would have sucked to put it together and it not go into gear or be slipping. I am very lucky that mine works. Screw nitrous go procharger or turbo. I am considering selling my procharger eventually and going 91mm turbo. I guess I like working on this heap, lol. Trader Rating: 1 Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: Haltom City, TX Posts: 621 Noooo! That Procharger is a huge reason why I'm such a fan of your car!
#62 Nitrous is only for a quick fix while I'm in school. One of my buddy's in our shop has a generic wet kit he said I could use. Then after school I'll be going f/I. I really like that modular turbo kit, or go with an f1a kit. __________________
02-12-2012, 02:47 PM
#63
slow67 TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now
Quote: Originally Posted by Cam72aro You stomp it in 4th and it downshifts to 3rd and boost comes up and the car goes. FYI, I would recommend putting the shifter in 3rd when your makin power. It brings on the over-run clutches to help out the overdrive roller clutch. __________________ Black 2000 SS Camaro Jake's Performance 4L80E w/ Jake's Transbrake.
Trader Rating: 2 Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: DFW Posts: 2,249
02-12-2012, 03:32 PM White.Lightning TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 52 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 2,532 Quote:
#64
Originally Posted by slow67 FYI, I would recommend putting the shifter in 3rd when your makin power. It brings on the over-run clutches to help out the overdrive roller clutch. So are you saying drop it into 3rd, then shift into 4th? Or just run it in 3rd to redlinelike you are running a TH400 w/ a 1:1 ratio. __________________
1998 T/A Mods/Pics
02-12-2012, 03:42 PM Cam72aro TECH Fanatic Garage is empty, add now Quote:
#65
Originally Posted by slow67 FYI, I would recommend putting the shifter in 3rd when your makin power. It brings on the over-run clutches to help out the overdrive roller clutch. Thanks for the advice. I have romped on it a few times with bringing the shifter down to 3rd and done it with the the shifter in 4th. I will quit stomping it in 4th now. It was only to about 5100 rpms and 10psi so it probably didnt hurt too much, hopefully. __________________ 02 T/A 408 l92 heads, nw 102mm. strange 12 bolt, 4l80, circle d 3600 gt91 turbo Strange 4.10 12 bolt gear for sale pm me if interested.
02-12-2012, 03:44 PM Cam72aro TECH Fanatic Garage is empty, add now Quote: Originally Posted by eLiT3SnIpEz Noooo! That Procharger is a huge reason why I'm such a fan of your car!
#66
Trader Rating: 24
I like the procharger, but I think I am going to get annoyed with the whine at idle. Thanks for the flattering comments. . . I am worried about slipping the belt later on when it starts making more boost. I will give it a year or so and see what happens. __________________ 02 T/A 408 l92 heads, nw 102mm. strange 12 bolt, 4l80, circle d 3600 gt91 turbo
Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Pearland, Tx Posts: 1,364
Strange 4.10 12 bolt gear for sale pm me if interested.
02-13-2012, 09:27 AM slow67 TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now Quote: Originally Posted by White.Lightning So are you saying drop it into 3rd, then shift into 4th? Or just run it in 3rd to redlinelike you are running a TH400 w/ a 1:1 ratio. Like a th400 to redline (unless you need more speed than 3rd will give you, and know the risks). Trader Rating: 2 Join Date: Nov 2004 Location: DFW Posts: 2,249 Quote:
#67
Originally Posted by Cam72aro Thanks for the advice. I have romped on it a few times with bringing the shifter down to 3rd and done it with the the shifter in 4th. I will quit stomping it in 4th now. It was only to about 5100 rpms and 10psi so it probably didnt hurt too much, hopefully. If the car still drives normally in the D4 position, then you probably haven't hurt anything. __________________ Black 2000 SS Camaro Jake's Performance 4L80E w/ Jake's Transbrake.
02-13-2012, 11:50 AM black00ssFL TECH Resident
#68 Alright, ordered a MadMan 4l80e dipstick this morning. Did some researching and it
seems that's the best option. It's just like the stocker and locks, without any of the filling problems that some people have with the lokar. It's cheaper too! I also have a cooler lined up somewhat local (jacksonville) that I'll be buying from a member here shortly. It'll be a B&M stacked plate, and I'll be using his fittings from his old TH400 setup, and running my own hose.
That should pretty much do it with big purchases. Only thing really left is miscellaneous items like wiring, sheet metal for covering the hole, fluid, etc. Now I Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 just need to find the time to get this thing rocking. Location: Ocala, FL __________________ Posts: 994
02-13-2012, 11:52 AM White.Lightning TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 52 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 2,532 Quote:
#69
Originally Posted by black00ssFL Alright, ordered a MadMan 4l80e dipstick this morning. Did some researching and it seems that's the best option. It's just like the stocker and locks, without any of the filling problems that some people have with the lokar. It's cheaper too! I'll have to see how yours works out __________________
1998 T/A Mods/Pics
02-13-2012, 04:44 PM Cam72aro TECH Fanatic Garage is empty, add now Quote: Originally Posted by slow67 If the car still drives normally in the D4 position, then you probably haven't hurt anything.
#70
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Feb Strange 4.10 12 bolt gear for sale pm me if interested. 2006 Location: Pearland, Last edited by Cam72aro; 02-13-2012 at 05:36 PM.. Tx Posts: 1,364
Its does. I drove it a while in od after I made a fews pulls in it. Thanks for the help. __________________ 02 T/A 408 l92 heads, nw 102mm. strange 12 bolt, 4l80, circle d 3600 gt91 turbo
02-13-2012, 08:52 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet
#71 So the Drum, gaskets and seals, and slip yoke came in the mail today. Since I had a little time I stopped by the shop to put back together the clutch assembly part of the
Camaro
direct drum. And since I was in a rush I forgot my camera, so I had to make due with my Iphone camera. First off I removed the second seal on the center support as per instructions for the transbrake to complete the dual feed setup.
02-13-2012, 09:21 PM armyinfantry3id Teching In Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 0 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: ocala, fl Posts: 19
#72 looking good man, hope the build goes good. im gonna need to get the HP tuners from you in about a week, my LS1 swap is almost done...and i got that window ready for you! __________________
95 Z28, LS1 Swap, custom paint, ebay special longtubes, magnaflow catback, K&N cold air intake, Torq Thrust M special edition rims, BMR K Member, BMR Lower A-arms, hotchkis lowering springs
#73
Originally Posted by armyinfantry3id looking good man, hope the build goes good. im gonna need to get the HP tuners from you in about a week, my LS1 swap is almost done...and i got that window ready for you!
I was just thinking about that window an hour ago or so, lol. I was supposed to come get it last Thursday. I ended up hurting my shoulder at the gym and went to the Dr. Thursday and forgot all about it, I'll give ya a text tomorrow. Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 __________________ Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 994
02-14-2012, 12:17 AM armyinfantry3id Teching In Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 0 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: ocala, fl Posts: 19
#74 hey its cool...im getting tires put on the "beater car" in the morning so weds. would be better, btw this window is on me! __________________
02-16-2012, 10:21 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Haven't gotten a whole lot done the past couple of days. Still waiting on my 34 element sprag to come it. But, I did get some parts in the mail. connector for the shifter
#75
02-16-2012, 10:33 PM LongIsland63SS40 9 Launching! Garage is empty, add now Thanks for the updates and progress. Details on the slip yoke? Dim from the end to the center of the u joint? Thanks, Mike __________________ www.lidragracing.com
#76
02-16-2012, 10:38 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Quote: Originally Posted by LongIsland63SS409 Thanks for the updates and progress. Details on the slip yoke? Dim from the end to the center of the u joint? Thanks, Mike
#77
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct
7.9". Just a standard th400/1350 yoke. Since my transmission is splined all the way, I may be alright. I may have to cut it down, doubt it though.
2006 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994
__________________
02-16-2012, 11:51 PM Jake's Performance LS1Tech Sponsor Garage is empty, add now Quote: Originally Posted by black00ssFL
#78
I hope you used some type of lip seal installer tool to install the piston. You can't just push the piston in, no matter how much lube. The seals must be worked into place so they don't get cut or rolled. Be sure to air check it. Sit it on the center support, block one of the feed holes, and blow air in the opposite. Be sure the clutches apply and no air leaks are present. __________________ GM Racing Automatics from the company that designs the parts, not just another parts assembler. www.jakesperformance.com Racing Automatic Transmission Tech www.race-trans-tech.com
#79 I just used a general lip seal tool that I got with the seals/gaskets I ordered. The manual shows a different tool and I figured that was some sort of alignment tool to line up the piston. I'll be sure to check it when I get the case back. __________________
02-17-2012, 06:18 AM
#80
White.Lightning TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 52 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 2,532
Looks like some good progress! -In regards to the trans coolers- I recommend the bar/plate one (black) over the tube/fin. There was a few threads about how the bar/plate cooler is superior. Also, add a small fan to it and you'll never have trans temp issues. -The madman dipstick looks great! Mine should arrive Monday. Are you going to powder coat that as well? -What part number is your slip yoke? I was looking at the Strange U1650 one. -I might have missed this, but what shifter are you using? I was going to use a stock A4 shifter. __________________
1998 T/A Mods/Pics
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Thread Tools 02-17-2012, 08:54 AM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Quote:
Camaro
Originally Posted by White.Lightning Looks like some good progress! -In regards to the trans coolers- I recommend the bar/plate one (black) over the tube/fin. There was a few threads about how the bar/plate cooler is superior. Also, add a small fan to it and you'll never have trans temp issues. -The madman dipstick looks great! Mine should arrive Monday. Are you going to powder coat that as well? -What part number is your slip yoke? I was looking at the Strange U1650 one. -I might have missed this, but what shifter are you using? I was going to use a stock A4 shifter. I'm going to try just running both inline, with the fluid going to the tube/fin first and then the stack plate, and then going back to the transmission. not gonna powder coat the dipstick, it's nice and clean as it The part number on my order was 3-3-5551X NCB. It's not a strange or anything, just a NOS replacement. I'm using the stock shifter. As part of the sale of my t56, I got the guys pedals, shifter and cable, and center console. __________________
02-20-2012, 10:15 AM black00ssFL
#82
TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro
Haven't forgot about this thread!! Spent some time with a motorcylce I've been working on this weekend. '87 Honda Shadow VT1100. Sat for 6 years, so been doing the normal maintenance stuff, and took the carb off and began a rebuild. That'll make my first engine build over the summer, first tranny work with this build, and first carb rebuild with the motorcycle too. That's a lot of first for one year, lol.
Anyways, sprag was not in stock and should be shipped out today from Tampa (hour and a half away). And supposed to get the case back from powdercoating on Wednesday. In the mean time I can get some wiring done, mostly stuff that's in the how to's here on tech on getting the shifter to work in an M6 car. Also gonna install Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 the wideband and pillar pod/gauge as well. Location: Ocala, FL __________________ Posts: 994
#83 ....and the snowball effect is in full swing. There's a "0411" pcm for sale local to me for REALLY cheap. Now I'm pondering swapping to a '99-up computer since I'm doing all this work anyways and retuning. Only thing is I've already wasted 2 credits downloading the stock file on my '98 (shoulda just been patient and waited until I really needed to tune it). So I'd waste another 2 credits getting into the new pcm, and another 2 for a segment swap to make the gas tank work. But, I still need to use 2 credits for a full write with an auto OS as is for the '98 pcm. So, it comes down to a bunch of time and wasting 6 total credits for a newer pcm (which is auto already), or keep what I got with a '98 pcm and just use 4 credits. __________________
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#84 Alright, I was wrong on the cost. Just sent an email to hptuners. They don't charge for a segment swap. So either way I'm looking at 4 credits. Seems like a no brainer to me right? __________________
02-20-2012, 01:24 PM White.Lightning TECH Addict Garage is empty,
#85 I looked into this a while ago. I think there is more to it than just swapping a PCM and re-pinning. I think it involved all new stuff- gauge cluster, interior harness,
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engine/trans harness. That's if you wanted everything to work like stock. The main issues between the 98 vs. 99-02 cars is the coolant temp sender and the fuel sender. I'd do more research before picking a route. __________________
1998 T/A Mods/Pics
#86 Those issues are if you are trying to use a '99-up pcm AND harness. If you just repin the '98 harness to work with the '99-up pcm, you'll only lose the fuel gauge, which can be fixed with a segment swap. Before the segment swaps, people would just swap the whole gastank/sender. __________________
02-20-2012, 01:30 PM White.Lightning TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 52 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 2,532 Oh ok. Cool. __________________
#87
1998 T/A Mods/Pics
#88 Ya, just spent the last hour and a half researching the swap. Some sensors are different on the '98 cars since the cluster reads off sensor and not serial cable from pcm. So while it doesn't make a difference when repinning for a new computer, using a newer harness will complicate things. Plus, I gotta pin in some new locations for the trans harness anyways, why not add a couple hours of torture by removing, labeling, and replacing pins, lol. __________________
02-20-2012, 01:38 PM White.Lightning TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 52 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 2,532 What is the purpose of running the 99-02 segment then? Did I miss this? __________________
#89
1998 T/A Mods/Pics
#90 Faster processor, custom OS ability, more tables, more resolution in VE, etc. Not really a big deal, as the '98 computer can handle what I got....but for the long run why not? It's gonna cost me the same anyways since I need another 2 credits to write an auto OS. __________________
02-202012, 01:45 PM White.Ligh Oh ok. Well take some good notes and pictures. I might end up doing the same!!!! tning __________________ TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 52 Join Date: 1998 T/A Mods/Pics Mar 2005 Location: Philadelph ia, PA Posts: 2,532
#91
02-212012, 05:49 PM black00ss FL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Got a few things done today, and got my MWC 4l80e crossmember in too. Here's the crossmember
#92
02-21-2012, 07:16 PM White.Lightning TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 52 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 2,532 1998 T/A Mods/Pics
#93 Good progress on the wiring. You should make a little schematic showing what pins were moved, what wires were added, etc. __________________
#94 The wiring to get the shifter to work is easily available searching and in the two main "a4-m6/m6-a4" swap threads that everyone refers to. I just forgot that I'm still using my m6 harness....so I don't have those wires. As far was the wiring to get the 4l80e running, I'm not at liberty to give that info out. It's very inexpensive to get that info from Slow67 and is more than worth it when compared to everything else in the swap. __________________
02-22-2012, 05:52 PM john59 On The Tree Garage is empty, add now Hi Guys I swapped an LS2 4L80 into my 89 S10 Blazer, these came in handy. 6an or 8an http://www.towersracingparts.com/servlet/Categories
#95
Trader Rating: 2 Join Date: Sep 2004 Location: Stuart, Florida Posts: 178
Great write up by the way __________________ 01 Corvette Vert. Vararam CAI/4.10 Rear/Hardened Shafts//Ported 90mm Throttle body/Fast Intake/224/228 581-588-112/TSP 2.5-5.3 milled to 59cc/.040 Cometics/PRC Dual Springs/Hardened pushrods/B&B Catback/Kooks Headers 1 3/4 with 3" off road Xpipe/Z06 sway bars/ Double Drilled Discs/Bilstein Shocks /Lowered 1989 S10 Blazer 2Dr. LS2/4L80 and 8.8 Ford Rear in the works and almost done
#96 Stopped out to the shop today and again discovered that I don't have the connector for the tcc release/brake switch cause of my m6 harness. Well, 3 years of law school paid off and I began researching. Finally I discovered the part number. It's ACDelco
PT483 just in case anyone needs to know, lol.
I found it on rock auto for about $18......or I will just hit a junk yard tomorrow. Then all I need to do is run another wire/pin to the pcm and the other side to an ign 12v source. Found the reverse and neutral safety wires, so just gotta wire those in. __________________
02-22-2012, 09:12 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Quote: Originally Posted by john59 Hi Guys I swapped an LS2 4L80 into my 89 S10 Blazer, these came in handy. 6an or 8an http://www.towersracingparts.com/servlet/Categories Great write up by the way Trader Rating: 24 Thanks. I'm just sticking with the old NPT fittins, rubber hose, and tranny cooler Join Date: Oct setup. 2006 Location: Ocala, FL __________________ Posts: 994
#97
02-23-2012, 01:52 PM RedRocketZ28 12 Second Club Garage is empty, add now
#98 Thanks for keeping the thread updated with detailed pics. I just scored a 94 4L80E with less than 80k miles on it for $200. I will be tackling this in the next couple of months. __________________ 2001 Z28 M6 1SC - Turbo LQ4 in the works... 2000 SS M6 #5445 - Sold 11/4/10
Trader Rating: 13 Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Des Moines, IA Posts: 994
02-242012, 12:25 AM black00ss FL TECH Resident
#99
Ok....busy busy busy wiring day. Went to the local junk yard and picked up the plug for the brake switch, even let me have it for free! (minus the $1 they charge to get in). So I got ALL of the wiring issues done and dealt with. The two main things you'll be dealing with if still
using an M6 harness is the PNP wire from the pcm and the brake switch into the pcm. Here's how to do it (sorry no pics): PNP wire: This one is fairly "simple". Unplug the connectors from the pcm and locate which pin is the pnp wire. Get a 20g primary wire, put a pin on it, run it through the firewall grommet under the PCM, and connect it to the corresponding switch on the shifter.
Brake switch: a little more tricky. Get the 4 prong plug using the p/n I listed above, or from a junk yard. Now one wire needs a 12v ignition source, and the other goes to the pcm. Again, I made one 20g wire with a pin, pinned it in the proper location on the harness, then ran the Trader Rating: 24 wire through the grommet and to the switch. Now for the ignition source. Conveniently, Join Date: there's an ign power source in the interior fuse panel. Search in the stereo section to find out where. I used just a male flat blade with a fused wire and ran it to the other wire on the Oct 2006 Location: switch. Then I tested it out with the trusty circuit tester. It should have 12v normally, and no Ocala, FL power when the brakes are pushed. Posts: 994 During that an getting other wiring done (also wired in my a/f gauge and LC1 kit), I got to go pick up the case from the powder coater.
02-242012, 06:28 AM White.Light I was going to grab some 100W terminals... ning TECH http://www.lsxtune.com/shop/product_...roducts_id/497 Addict Garage is empty, add And some 20ga TXL wire... now http://www.lsxtune.com/shop/product_...oducts_id/1540 Trader Are they the right terminals? I searched and found one source that mentioned 100W. Rating: 52 Join Date: Thanks Mar 2005 __________________ Location: Philadelphi a, PA Posts: 2,532
#100
1998 T/A Mods/Pics
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02-24-2012, 09:07 AM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Those look the same as I got. I ordered my from here http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...KPJzAguLJEg%3d __________________
#101
02-25-2012, 09:53 AM White.Lightning TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 52 Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Philadelphia, PA Posts: 2,532 One last question regarding the wiring....
#102
Do you need to put these on when inserting the terminal into the PCM connector?
__________________
1998 T/A Mods/Pics
#103 Nope. Only thing you may need is a crimper made for crimping those pins. I got by with a small needle nose and was careful. __________________
02-27-2012, 09:20 PM Sarg TECH Resident Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 6 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Atlanta, GA Posts: 860
#104 Great thread! One question I had, do the early transmissions (or a th400 for that matter) just bolt in without any adapters or anything of that nature?
#105
Originally Posted by Sarg Great thread! One question I had, do the early transmissions (or a th400 for that matter) just bolt in without any adapters or anything of that nature?
You'll have 5 or 6 bolts line up on the bellhousing. You won't have the 12 o'clock bolt. The 80e will need a custom crossmember or modified manual crossmember. And, you will need to notch the underside of the car on the tunnel to make room for the plug. Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 __________________ Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994
02-28-2012, 08:01 AM Sarg TECH Resident Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 6 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Atlanta, Right, but no spacer or adapter for the torque converter? Or do you just need a custom converter of some sort to adapt the early style 80e to a ls?
#106
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#107 You'll need a 4l80e specific converter and a spacer for the flexplate. I forget the part number, but it's used with trucks and used to come in a kit from GM with a new flexplate, spacer, and bolts. __________________
#108 ....Still waiting on the 34 element sprag, supposedly shipped out today. I don't have much free time this week, and I go out of town for 5 days starting Saturday. So it'll probably be another 2 weeks before I get this thing in and running. Anyways, had some time today to get a couple things though. First up was the first mock up of the transmission case to see where I need to notch out for the plug. Everything fits well and there's tons of room for the cooler lines.
02-28-2012, 11:25 PM eLiT3SnIpEz TECH Enthusiast Garage is empty, add now Looking great man! That gauge is looking pretty sweet mounted to the pillar Just remember what I said back on page 2 about the sprag and the race and installation is a breeze Can't wait to see pics of this thing installed!
#109
#110 Did you put the wiring harness and connector in the case to test fit it for clearance? If not I would do it because it requires quite a bit of room for the connector. Maybe the early connector is diferent, but mine required more than that. __________________ 02 T/A 408 l92 heads, nw 102mm. strange 12 bolt, 4l80, circle d 3600 gt91 turbo Strange 4.10 12 bolt gear for sale pm me if interested.
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#111
Originally Posted by Cam72aro Did you put the wiring harness and connector in the case to test fit it for clearance? If not I would do it because it requires quite a bit of room for the connector. Maybe the early connector is diferent, but mine required more than that.
Haven't made a second test fit yet. This connector is pretty flat and I could almost get it in there without even clearancing the tunnel, but would bend the wires significantly and I'd have to drop the tranny to plug/unplug it. It's not much work Trader Rating: 24 with an angle grinder, so once it's all together I'll make another test fit for it and Join Date: Oct make sure. 2006 Location: Ocala, FL __________________ Posts: 994
03-01-2012, 12:48 PM slow67
#112
TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now
I used a hammer to push in the body a little bit after I cut the frame. __________________ Black 2000 SS Camaro Jake's Performance 4L80E w/ Jake's Transbrake.
03-02-2012, 10:27 PM Cam72aro TECH Fanatic Garage is empty, add now Quote: Originally Posted by slow67 I used a hammer to push in the body a little bit after I cut the frame.
#113
I did mine with my snap on 3050 air hammer. It took quite a bit of shaping to get good clearance so nothing was touching. __________________ 02 T/A 408 l92 heads, nw 102mm. strange 12 bolt, 4l80, circle d 3600 gt91 turbo Trader Rating: 24 Strange 4.10 12 bolt gear for sale pm me if interested. Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Pearland, Tx Posts: 1,364
03-09-2012, 10:16
#114
AM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Alright, got back from my cruise yesterday. Still in recovery mode, lol. Not sure if I'll make it out to the shop today. But, good news is my 34 element sprag came in!! I'll be reassembling the tranny real soon. __________________
03-092012, 08:04 PM black00ss FL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro
#115
Ended up making it out to the shop for a little bit and got the main guts of the tranny together. Wasn't too long of a process and it was a pain sometimes to wiggle the parts in place to get them seated correctly. Here's the new 34 element sprag next to the old 17 element.
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03-102012, 08:04 AM White.Ligh tning TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now NICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!
#116
You have/had me thinking I should go this route for myself. The other part of me says, just buy it from Jake since it will be proper. I still have some time to figure it all out. __________________
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03-102012, 08:27 AM black00s sFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro
#117
Well I'm not gonna count my chickens yet. Once it's in and running properly then I'll know I did a good job, lol. I kept twisting and turning the parts even after they were seated just to make sure they were in right, lol. __________________
03-102012, 03:46 PM
#118
eLiT3SnI Ah man, maybe you didn't take a picture of it but I really hope you put the bearing back on the pEz front of the forward drum (what you referred to as the forward clutch housing) TECH Enthusia st Garage is empty, add now
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#119 It's in there. Was on the back of the next part that went in. Any idea if having air come out of the other hole on the center support is normal? __________________
03-11-2012, 08:29 AM LongIsland63SS40 9 Launching! Garage is empty, add now
#120 "Everything went smoothly. I did test the direct drum setup with air before I installed it into the case. I put air into the left hole and the clutches engaged but air was coming out of ONLY the bleed hole that was drilled and the hole on the right that is for reverse. Now, I'm not sure if air is supposed to come out of the other hole or not and am currently researching whether this is a problem or not. When I covered both the small bleed hole and the reverse hole, no air escaped and the clutches engaged." By any means I am not a 4l80E trans expert but am in learning mode from your outstanding thread. Thanks again for sharing!
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Page 4 of the ATSG manual shows that the direct clutch is also applied in reverse. Makes sense why air would be escaping from the reverse feed circuit hole?
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Experts please chime in to confirm. Mike __________________ www.lidragracing.com Last edited by LongIsland63SS409; 03-11-2012 at 08:43 AM..
Thread Tools 03-11-2012, 10:31 AM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro
Makes sense then. It was engaging just fine even with the bleed off, and no escaping air when I had a friend blow air in while I was covering the holes. __________________
03-12-2012, 01:29 AM armyinfantry3id Teching In Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 0 Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: ocala, fl Posts: 19
#122 the trans is looking good, cant wait to meet up for a cruise or something when that things done. __________________
03-12-2012, 11:21 AM
#123
Jake's Performance It will escape out the reverse side because we remove the center seal in the drum for LS1Tech Sponsor the "dual feed" modification. Garage is empty, Normal, our separator plate blocks the leak here. add now __________________ GM Racing Automatics from the company that designs the parts, not just another parts assembler. www.jakesperformance.com Racing Automatic Transmission Tech www.race-trans-tech.com Trader Rating: 1 Join Date: Oct 2010 Posts: 770
03-12-2012, 01:07 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Thank you sir __________________
#124
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 1998 Camaro Z28 4L80E Sold Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994
#125 Alright, hadn't had much time to work on the car. Have to finish the motorcycle I'm working on at my in-laws, so I can get it out of their garage. And......My wife and I just found out today that we're having triplets!! We've known for 4 weeks now that she's been pregnant, but went to the Dr. today for the first visit and she wanted an ultrasound to make sure everything was alright since her last pregnancy was a miscarriage. Well, to our surprise there was 3 little ones in there. Kinda a game changer when you were expecting only 1, lol. I'm ecstatic, but don't know if I'll be keeping the car for much longer. Either way, now I gotta get this thing done ASAP. __________________
03-13-2012, 09:13 PM LongIsland63SS40 9 Launching! Garage is empty, add now Congrats to you and your wife! Mike __________________ www.lidragracing.com
#126
03-19-2012, 10:28 AM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Quote:
#127
Camaro
Originally Posted by LongIsland63SS409 Congrats to you and your wife! Mike Thank you!
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 Ok, been a hectic week. Didn't have a chance to touch the car, but should have a day Location: Ocala, FL or two this week to work on it. But, the other day I had an idea about the transbrake switch. I've been trying to figure where to put it, so that I don't accidentally hit it but Posts: 994 also have quick access to shift it out of first. I got to reminiscing about my first vehicle, a 1987 ford f-150. And, for whatever reason, I remember the bright light switch was a push button switch on the floorboard (as are a lot of them in older vehicles). Well I got to figuring "why not do that with the transbrake". First thought that came to mind was what if I accidentally hit the switch? Then I figured I'd just copy my line lock and wire in an activation switch. So, I bought one of those $5 push button/momentary starter switches, and a flat toggle switch from autozone. I'm gonna drill and mount the push button switch on the "dead pedal" and then wire a good ground to it from the toggle switch, which I will mount on the flat panel under the steering wheel. I think it will work out great, and if not I'll just man up and buy one of those handle switches. __________________
03-19-2012, 12:27 PM slow67
#128
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Only disadvantage I can think of is that bracket racers have shown that the foot isn't as fast/consistent as a thumb.....but if the 'brake is just for test and tune, I don't see why not. __________________ Black 2000 SS Camaro Jake's Performance 4L80E w/ Jake's Transbrake.
03-19-2012, 02:40 PM cjmatt TECH Enthusiast Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 4 Join Date: May 2006 Location: Metro Detroit Posts: 557
#129 Do you need the adapter harness to convert 4l60 to 4l80? Ive got one laying around __________________ 1973 Lincoln Continental Coupe - Built 460ci BBF & Spray...HOT Rod Lincoln 1992 Mustang Notchback - LS1, TH350
03-19-2012, 07:29 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident Quote:
#130
Originally Posted by slow67 Only disadvantage I can think of is that bracket racers have shown that the foot isn't as fast/consistent as a thumb.....but if the 'brake is just for test and tune, I don't see why not. I'd think it'd be relevant to how much practice you have at it. I can understand how the consistency can differ, depending on what type of shoe you're wearing that day and what not. I only do maybe one actual competition a year, the rest is just out having fun at the track.
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct Quote: 2006 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994 Originally Posted by cjmatt Do you need the adapter harness to convert 4l60 to 4l80? Ive got one laying around Made my own from the plug I got with the transmission. I did make some progress today. Covered the hole where the shifter goes, drilled some holes, got some bolts and spacers for the shifter, and installed the shifter. Looks good and was easier than I thought. Also began wiring and installing the switches for the transbrake. I don't have pics yet, but will when I get it all installed. __________________
03-252012, 10:38 AM black00s
#131
sFL Ok, made some progress this week, and also ran into a snag last night trying to install the TECH tranny. I'll get to that later, but let's start out with the switch Idea I had. Like I said, I installed Resident the momentary switch into the dead pedal. 1998 Chevrole t Camaro
03-262012, 09:59 AM black00s sFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro
#132
Talked with Revmax this morning. They didn't build the converter to bolt onto a stock flexplate. They said that the converter isn't on the pump all they way, and there should be 3 distinct clicks to get the converter on. I got two clicks and then it moved about a 1/4" in when I installed it. I only messed with the converter for 15 minutes after taking the trans back out, so looks like I'll be playing with it a little more to get it seated correctly. Man, I guess I'm just too used to manuals, lol. __________________
03-27-2012, 07:18 PM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Transmission is in!!
#133
Camaro
No pics as I was busy working and forgot the camera again. Finally got the converter seated after a little persuasion with a rubber mallet. Was only able to get 5 bolts in. The 1 o'clock bolt hole didn't line up right, but all the others did. Other good news is that I don't have to cut the slip yoke down. It slides in far enough to get the driveshaft into the rear end.
However, the y pipe does not fit. I custom made it for when I had the t56 in there, so now with the 4l80e and the new crossmember it's contacting the middle of the crossmember. I started banging away at the pipe to make it fit for now just to get it running. I ran out of time, but almost got it dented enough. Looks like it will severely hinder flow, so I need to make a new one ASAP. So only thing left is to mount the cooler and run lines to it, bolt in driveshaft/exhaust, fill her with fluid, load an auto tune into the car, and start her up! __________________
03-29-2012, 11:06 PM RONIN LSX TECH Apprentice Garage is empty, add now Sub'ed for future use What is the best year 80 to get? Great write you Bro, thanks for taking the time to do it!
#134
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03-30-2012, 08:38 AM ISMELLRICE TECH Apprentice Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 22 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Clewiston, FL 33440 Posts: 350 1999 30TH Anniv. T/A A4 stock de-30th'd by previous owner 2004 srt4 stockish DD
#135 the company you bought your slip yoke from said they are on back order...would this work the same? http://www.alloutracing.com/store/bm...oke-yk004.html __________________
03-30-2012, 08:45 AM
#136
As long as it's for a th400, the splines will fit. The u joint ends will depend on what driveshaft you're using. I was using my PST, so it had 1350 ends. If you're using a stocker, I'm not sure what ends they have. Also have to take in consideration what output shaft you have on the 80e, whether it's fully splined like mine, or only splined part way up cause it's a bolt on yoke. __________________
03-30-2012, 08:48 AM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Quote: Originally Posted by RONIN LSX What is the best year 80 to get?
#137
I like pre '97's. They're usually cheaper, builders say they have a beefier overdrive unit, and the cooler lines are next to each other and you don't have to deal with the extension of the rear cooler. __________________ Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994
03-30-2012, 08:52 AM ISMELLRICE TECH Apprentice Garage is empty, add now Quote:
#138
Trader Rating: 22 Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Clewiston, FL 33440 my shaft is just like yours Posts: 350 its from a 2003 exress thanks for your writeup btw __________________
Originally Posted by black00ssFL As long as it's for a th400, the splines will fit. The u joint ends will depend on what driveshaft you're using. I was using my PST, so it had 1350 ends. If you're using a stocker, I'm not sure what ends they have. Also have to take in consideration what output shaft you have on the 80e, whether it's fully splined like mine, or only splined part way up cause it's a bolt on yoke. lol but im going to be using the stock drive shaft..
1999 30TH Anniv. T/A A4 stock de-30th'd by previous owner 2004 srt4 stockish DD
#139 Maiden voyage! Did a write entire and a quick tune to get it to idle and scaled for the 42lb injectors. Took her out for a drive....and no 3rd gear . I'm also getting a P0740 code as well. I tried to get it to go into 3rd via hptuners scanner but no dice. I'm currently working on the wiring side of it to see what's going on. 1st and 2nd seem great though, lol. __________________
04-01-2012, 05:42 AM jgarza54 On The Tree Garage is empty, add now
#140 I'm sure Mike, Stephen (elit3), or slow67 will chime in and help you out. I have an 80 from Jakes in my car and love it. I beat the shit out of it, every chance I get and any of the guys at Jakes will tell you how good I treat the tranny lol. Watch out for Stephen (elit3) though, he'll start to hate you, like he does me for some reason... lmao jk Well that's what he tells me anyways.. lol BTW awesome thread. __________________
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Thread Tools 04-01-2012, 04:26 PM RONIN LSX TECH Apprentice Garage is empty, add now Quote:
Originally Posted by black00ssFL I like pre '97's. They're usually cheaper, builders say they have a beefier overdrive unit, and the cooler lines are next to each other and you don't have to deal with the extension of the rear cooler. Thanks for the info man! __________________ *** PARTS FOR SALE!!!! ***
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Morel Lifters-Vic Jr-BM Ripper-M6 Swap-Gaskets-Cloyes Timing-98 A4 Har/ECU-AND MORE Pre 04 LQ4 short block
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#142 Ok, after a couple days of testing theories, wires, etc, I still have no 3rd, 4th, or tcc lock up. Here's a run down of what I've tested and found out. First of all, 1st and 2nd are running great. No slipping, feels good, etc. Also, reverse is strong as well, doesn't need extra gas to get going like you hear when reverse goes on 4l80's. fluid level is good. trans hasn't seen a temp above 170 so far....as I've only done about 1 min drives on the road to test 3rd gear.
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 The transbrake will intermediately work. And, when it does work....it starts pushing Location: Ocala, FL through it at around 2500 rpms. Transbrake ties into b shift solenoid (2-3 shift). Posts: 994 Trans will not go into 3rd or 4th, even when commanded via hp tuners, neither will the TCC. Tested all the wiring. When commanding 3rd, it sends ground to plug and I can hear the solenoid. When commanding TCC lock up, the plug is getting a ground to the proper wire, but don't hear a solenoid engaging. Also getting the proper ground when activating the transbrake. I am getting a p0740 code for the TCC. This could simply mean that this solenoid is bad (reused from stock VB), or something is wrong with wiring in the trans. I'm also getting a p0300, I know that this could sometimes cause TCC not to lock up, but it's not even locking up when commanded. It's also an intermediate code that's only popped up a couple times since I haven't changed the tables for detecting a miss yet, and I have a pretty big cam in there. Next step is to pop the pan back of and see what's going on. There's a couple
possibilities on what I believe is going on. It's possible that the valve is stuck, since the solenoids are activating. Or the solenoid may be bad (even though I can hear it work?). I could have simply forgot to plug the tcc solenoid, lol. I don't think it's the direct clutch/drum as reverse is strong and not slipping....and 3rd isn't even engaging. I'd imagine if there was pressure bleedoff I'd still get 3rd, but would slip. __________________
04-022012, 10:01 PM
#143
Jake's Performa Quote: nce LS1Tech Originally Posted by black00ssFL Sponsor Ok, after a couple days of testing theories, wires, etc, I still have no 3rd, 4th, or tcc lock up. Garage is Here's a run down of what I've tested and found out. empty, add now First of all, 1st and 2nd are running great. No slipping, feels good, etc. Also, reverse is strong as well, doesn't need extra gas to get going like you hear when reverse goes on 4l80's. fluid level is good. trans hasn't seen a temp above 170 so far....as I've only done about 1 min drives on the road to test 3rd gear. Trader Rating: 1 The transbrake will intermediately work. And, when it does work....it starts pushing through Join Date: it at around 2500 rpms. Transbrake ties into b shift solenoid (2-3 shift).
Oct 2010 Posts: 770
Trans will not go into 3rd or 4th, even when commanded via hp tuners, neither will the TCC. Tested all the wiring. When commanding 3rd, it sends ground to plug and I can hear the solenoid. When commanding TCC lock up, the plug is getting a ground to the proper wire, but don't hear a solenoid engaging. Also getting the proper ground when activating the transbrake. I am getting a p0740 code for the TCC. This could simply mean that this solenoid is bad (reused from stock VB), or something is wrong with wiring in the trans. I'm also getting a p0300, I know that this could sometimes cause TCC not to lock up, but it's not even locking up when commanded. It's also an intermediate code that's only popped up a couple times since I haven't changed the tables for detecting a miss yet, and I have a pretty big cam in there. Next step is to pop the pan back of and see what's going on. There's a couple possibilities on what I believe is going on. It's possible that the valve is stuck, since the solenoids are activating. Or the solenoid may be bad (even though I can hear it work?). I could have simply forgot to plug the tcc solenoid, lol. I don't think it's the direct clutch/drum as reverse is strong and not slipping....and 3rd isn't even engaging. I'd imagine if there was pressure bleedoff I'd still get 3rd, but would slip. Give me a call in the shop tomorrow. I don't think it's a sticking valve. Sounds like a low pressure in 3rd condition. It may be related to the checkball and spring that go in the valve body under the pressure switch (ie. installed backwards). If the transbrake comes on, and it slips at all, you have a low pressure condition to either the 3rd circuit or the low band, or the band pin is too short. Otherwise it WON'T slip. Usually if it drives through the brake, it's a band apply pin that is too short. __________________ GM Racing Automatics from the company that designs the parts, not just another parts assembler. www.jakesperformance.com Racing Automatic Transmission Tech www.race-trans-tech.com
04-022012, 10:09 PM
#144
black00s Quote: sFL TECH Resident Originally Posted by Jake's Performance 1998 Give me a call in the shop tomorrow. Chevrole I don't think it's a sticking valve. Sounds like a low pressure in 3rd condition. It may be t Camaro related to the checkball and spring that go in the valve body under the pressure switch (ie. installed backwards). If the transbrake comes on, and it slips at all, you have a low pressure condition to either the 3rd circuit or the low band, or the band pin is too short. Otherwise it WON'T slip. Usually if it drives through the brake, it's a band apply pin that is too short. Here's the pic when I installed the spring and check ball. Put the ball in first then the spring Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 994
04-02-2012, 10:50 PM Jake's Performance LS1Tech Sponsor Garage is empty, add now
#145 Hmm, Well that is correct. You can call the shop tonight for that matter. I'm working late trying to catch up. __________________ GM Racing Automatics from the company that designs the parts, not just another parts assembler. www.jakesperformance.com Racing Automatic Transmission Tech www.race-trans-tech.com
#146 Meh, I'm getting tired and trying to stay up and watch this game. I'll just call on my way out to the shop tomorrow. Thank you though! __________________
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 1998 Camaro Z28 4L80E Sold 2006 Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 994
#147 Ok, got to work on it yesterday and talked to Jake and his crew on the phone for a bit. I took the pan off and tested wiring there. All was good except for tcc solenoid wiring. I bench tested the solenoid and it worked, so testing the wiring showed that it was not getting the 12v, but was getting ground when commanded. Traced wires and saw no reason it shouldn't be getting 12v. So I ended up just tying the 12v tcc wire into another solenoid 12v wire. TCC solenoid now clicks when commanded and no more P0740.
Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 However, I popped out the 2-3 solenoid and tried moving the valve. Valve took a lot Location: Ocala, FL of force to move back, and when it did, it wouldn't come forward. Great, so I think this is the problem and a simple enough fix. I take the VB out, and begin to take it Posts: 994 apart. During that process, the valve became unstuck and moved freely. So I reassemble the vb and put it back in the trans and go for a test drive. Still no 3rd or 4th, and now it feels like sometimes it's not in 1st and only 2nd. Transbrake doesn't engage at all now. When in manual low, sometimes it will free rev and then go into gear...and that definitely feels like 1st. Hard to tell what gear it's in when I'm in D cause of this 4000 stall. And TCC lock up is not happening either when commanded through hptuners, however this could be because it's only in 2nd gear. So talked to Jake again and he believes I might have a low pressure problem, which could be true since I did not open the pump to take a look at what's going on or rebuild it. So I'm in the process of locating a gauge to hook up to the trans to see what kinda pressure it's putting out. And, not getting any SES lights now __________________
1998 Camaro Z28 4L80E Sold Last edited by black00ssFL; 04-04-2012 at 10:53 AM..
04-04-2012, 09:31 PM mprete Staging Lane 1966 Chevrolet Nova Trader Rating: 0 Join Date: Apr 2012 Posts: 52
#148 i like on the first page his check list on the board in the back ground and one of the points is "check everything" hahaha
04-04-2012, 09:45 PM Jake's Performance LS1Tech Sponsor Garage is empty, add now Quote:
#149
Originally Posted by mprete i like on the first page his check list on the board in the back ground and one of the points is "check everything" hahaha It's a good point when dealing with an automatic transmission! __________________ GM Racing Automatics from the company that designs the parts, not just another
parts assembler. www.jakesperformance.com Racing Automatic Transmission Tech www.race-trans-tech.com
#150 Got a pressure gauge on the tranny today. Showing 270-240 psi in park/neutral and all gears. Emailed Jake and he says that's way too high, only reverse should be that high. So, tranny has to come back out and gonna take a look at the pump. And to top it off, found out one of the fans stopped working, so gotta figure what's going on with that too (already swapped relays, and that's not it). Either way, I think I'm gonna take a weekend off from it. Too frustrated to mess with it right now. __________________
04-06-2012, 04:20 PM FAST LS1 TECH Fanatic Garage is empty, add now
#151 Damn man, I hope you get it figured out as I was going to do the same build with my 4L80E. I think I may just throw it in the car and see how long it lasts now. __________________ 00' Chameleon Formula M6
Ram Air, Whisper Lid, Fernco, Jantzer TB, ASP Pulley, QTP HVMC LT's, ORY-pipe, Catback, BMR tubular SFC's, LCA reloc brackets, Strano 35mm & 22mm sway bars, Trackbird PHR, LG trq arm, Koni SA shocks, Ground Control Coilovers, Bear GT+ brakes, Eradispeed rotors, Chrome Y2K 17x9.5 wheels 60' 2.06 1/4 12.62 @114.72mph 351rwhp Trader Rating: 2 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Athens TN Posts: 1,028
#152 Ya, can't blame anyone but myself on this one. I had everything out of the tranny and inspected everything else, but the pump. It's the little things that'll get ya. __________________
#153 You will get there man. I had my fair share of problems with my install, now I am making some tweaks and enjoying it. I went out a beat on it last sunday for about an hour. Make several 11lb pulls to about 6000-6200 and the car is wicked fast. I have 4.10's and thinking about going down to a 3.08 or 3.55 gear. The car pulls real hard, but rpms real fast. __________________ 02 T/A 408 l92 heads, nw 102mm. strange 12 bolt, 4l80, circle d 3600 gt91 turbo Strange 4.10 12 bolt gear for sale pm me if interested.
04-06-2012, 07:52 PM 99fbodyTA Registered User Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 0 Join Date: Feb 2012 Posts: 0 good luck man, hope it works out. i'm still squeezing my 4l60 for what its worth
#154
04-07-2012, 07:23 AM
#155
deuceswildpacefl Registered User 1967 Chevrolet C/K 10 My Garage Trader Rating: 0 Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: pace florida Posts: 6
nice post enjoyed your post it has been very informative I have two questions the first is the flywheel I got from chevy doesnt say which is face so do the indents for converter go in or ut towards the trans i have it mounted with the indents towards the motor and it seems like the converter is to much gap when you line up the holes. The second question is the yoke on mine is bolted directly to the tailshaft do i have to find a different yoke or just take the bolt out thanks bob
#156 The indents go out towards the transmission. However, you're still gonna have a big gap unless you get a spacer behind the flexplate too. You're gonna have to remove the bolt on yoke and either get the tailshaft machined down behind the splines, cut a normal slip yoke, or get a specifically made slip yoke for the bolt on tail shafts. __________________
04-07-2012, 03:49 PM
#157
deuceswildpacefl thanks Registered User already have the spacer in just have the indents facing wrong way now going to have 1967 Chevrolet C/K do some research to find what yoke i need thanks 10 My Garage Trader Rating: 0 Join Date: Apr 2012 Location: pace florida Posts: 6
#158 Alright. Finally got back at it some this weekend. Pulled the pan again Friday night and then pulled the boost valve out of the pump. Not too familiar with how it works, but the piston in the valve gets "hung up" pulling it in and out. It doesn't take a whole lot of force to pull or push it in when it does get hung up, but it gets stuck enough where I can turn it upside down and it won't fall out. Seems that the spring setup is there to push it in, but when the spring releases it should move back out on it's own...and that's the way it's getting hung up.
Sent an email to Jake with some pics and explaining what's going on and he says it's a bad valve. One is on the way and hopefully this solves my problems, or at least Trader Rating: 24 Join Date: Oct 2006 most of them. Location: Ocala, FL __________________ Posts: 994
#159 I'm still here. Waiting on new boost valve and give it another go around. I also ordered the updated wiring harness as well since the old plug was leaking a little. I have a feeling that the high pressure isn't the cause of all my problems. But we'll get it in there and see what she does. __________________
04-24-2012, 12:56 AM eLiT3SnIpEz TECH Enthusiast Garage is empty, add now Quote:
#160
Originally Posted by black00ssFL I'm still here. Waiting on new boost valve and give it another go around. I also ordered the updated wiring harness as well since the old plug was leaking a little. I have a feeling that the high pressure isn't the cause of all my problems. But we'll get it in there and see what she does. Boost valve was sent, should be there soon this week __________________ '98 Firebird Piece of shit v6 with Trans Am hatch and swapped ebony interior and leather seats.
Trader Rating: 1 Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Haltom City, TX Posts: 621
Forged 370ci/4L80E/D1SC - Under Construction Racing Automatic Transmission Tech www.race-trans-tech.com
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Thread Tools 04-26-2012, 11:43 AM Golf&GM TECH Resident Garage is empty, add now
Subscribing to see how this turns out, hopefully that valve will fix it. Thanks for the writeup and good luck with the triplets! __________________ '99 A4 TA - Bolt Ons '03 CBR 600RR - Stockish
Trader Rating: 18 Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Roanoke, VA Posts: 832
04-27-2012, 01:47
#162
AM black00ssFL TECH Resident 1998 Chevrolet Camaro Parts came in today. Headed out to the shop and installed them after dinner. Good news! I now have all 4 gears, and the transbrake works great! However, I'm still not getting TCC lockup. Solenoid is clicking when commanded through hptuners, but sounds very weak/faint. Could be a wiring issue or a bad TCC solenoid. I'll work on that later. Right now I'm just happy it's actually working! __________________
04-27-2012, 04:54 PM 418redz28 On The Tree Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 10 Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: sw mo Posts: 190 this gives me hope for mine I'm gonna be tackling in a couple weeks. thanks for taking all the time to post pics. very useful thread! __________________ Stockcube n2o 9inch 99 Camaro
#163
04-28-2012, 09:29 AM
#164
LongIsland63SS40 9 Launching! Garage is empty, add now
Quote: Originally Posted by black00ssFL Parts came in today. Headed out to the shop and installed them after dinner. Good news! I now have all 4 gears, and the transbrake works great! However, I'm still not getting TCC lockup. Solenoid is clicking when commanded through hptuners, but sounds very weak/faint. Could be a wiring issue or a bad TCC solenoid. I'll work on that later. Right now I'm just happy it's actually working!
Great job! Thanks for sharing. Mike __________________ www.lidragracing.com
04-28-2012, 11:37 PM fastazzls1 Launching! Garage is empty, add now Trader Rating: 0 Join Date: May 2009 Posts: 268
#165 awesome post dude i am doing this swap myself and rebuilding my own trans is the overhaul manual worth it thnks
05-11-2012, 02:33 AM
#166
Busy night! Dropped the transmission to change a leaking front pump seal that I never replaced originally. Then I installed a new tcc solenoid and the updated wiring harness. Don't know which one was the culprit, but now I have lock up! I only have her tuned to 12.5:1 wot, but she pulls like a beast! All just in time for me to sell her . Between the triplets, and my recent decision to run for a local office here in town (tax collector), I'm gonna need the money and get rid of the burden. __________________
05-14-2012, 05:10 PM Pat-Man TECH Enthusiast Garage is empty, add now
#167 What a great thread! Read it from page one. Sorry to hear you are selling the car, but a big congrats on the tripplets! I've been struggling with the idea of swapping out a 4L80E or just spending the money on getting my 4L60E built. __________________ 2007 Pontiac G6 GTP - 3.6L DOHC VVT Stock DD 1998 Camaro Z28 - 6.0L 408cid LQ9 * Forged Rotating Assembly * TTi Street Kit w/ T76 Turbo @ 4psi * 3.73 Gears * Racetronix Fuel System * LS6 Intake * Motron 60# Injectors * 2 BAR MAP (SD Tune by Brian Reckhart) Not fast ... yet
Trader Rating: 3 Join Date: Jun 2002 Location: Georgetown,
Texas Posts: 564
06-17-2012, 07:30 PM djsanchez2 TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now
#168 Nice info man. I'll be following along shortly, just nabbed a 2001 4L80e last night. I was wondering if you ever got a chance to weigh it as it sat when sold? (LQ4, 4l80e, 9") __________________
Trader Rating: 14 Join Date: May 2005 Location: Sylmar, CA. Posts: 2,688
www.Fquick.com/djsanchez2 "Spending money I don't have, to buy parts I don't need, to impress people I don't know!" - Grumpy Jenkins
#169 It weighed 3360 with the 9", ls1, and t-56. Never had it weighed with the lq4 or the 4l80e. __________________
06-17-2012, 08:36 PM djsanchez2 TECH Addict Garage is empty, add now
#170 Damn ok, no biggie just curious. Too bad you had to sell it off, but off to bigger and better things i suppose. Congrats on the new litter btw... with everything. __________________ Had to 3 is alot to handle at once man, good luck
Trader Rating: 14 Join Date: May 2005 Location: Sylmar, CA. Posts: 2,688
www.Fquick.com/djsanchez2 "Spending money I don't have, to buy parts I don't need, to impress people I don't know!" - Grumpy Jenkins
06-18-2012,
#171
04:06 PM LS1Adam84 TECH Regular Garage is empty, add now I too am glad you posted this, I will possibly do this in the future here, but I will be getting a rebuild kit and doing some upgrades as well since I am shooting for around 700 to the tire with a 200 shot lol. We will see if my wallet can handle that since I am trying to finish the floors on my house too lol. __________________ **PHK** CMS Tuned
Trader Rating: 21 Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Riverside Posts: 471
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4L80E TEARDOWN REBUILD and INSTALLATION

01-24-2012, 10:30 PM RARON455 TECH Fanatic 1998 Pontiac Trans Am

1998 Camaro Z28 4L80E Sold

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will work this way, lol. __________________

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