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Earliest use of plant fragrance lost in history Perfume (burning plants) may have been first use Egyptians using scented oils at least 5000 years ago Egyptian men would put solid cone of perfume on the head, let it melt
Romans scented clothes, houses, bedding and bath oil, as well as their bodies Japanese and Chinese used incense as clocks
http://www.nawcc.org/museum/nwcm/galleries/ asian/incense.htm
http://www.museesdegrasse.com
Popularity of perfume waned in Europe after the fall of the Roman empire, returned with the crusaders Distillation of essential oils Attributed to Avicenna, Arab, late 900s
Eau de Cologne
Germany, invented an 1709 by an Italian barber Rosemary, orange flower, and bergamot oils distilled in grape spirits Non-greasy Napolean decreed the formula must be public in 1810
A local company got a patent on the distillation system 1720s become a local industry Good sources for jasmine, rose, orange Modern perfume industry started here
Absolutes
concretes concentrated in alcohol
Resinoids
extracted like concretes, from plant secretions
Tinctures
direct extraction with ethanol
Perfume anatomy
Top notes
immediately perceived, highly volatile, bright, often citrus, ginger
Middle notes
a minute to an hour; often rose, lavender
Bottom notes
often animal, resin scents, perhaps vanilla, sandlewood
Types of fragances
Perfume (22% essential oils) Eau de Parfum (15-22%) Eau de Toilette (8-15%) Eau de Cologne (4%)
Lavender
Mint family Sterile hybrid of two species (L. angustifolia and L. latifolia) most often used today Obtained by steam distillation More than 300 components, linalool important In many mens fragrances (fern note)
Rose
Rosa centifolia and damascena Petals extracted with steam or solvents Used in many perfumes, foods
Geranium
Pelargonium graveolens Oils distilled from leaves and stems Much cheaper than rose, similar fragrance in some types Essence from Reunion island especially fruity Also in drinks, insect repellent
Jasminum grandiflorum Volatile solvents now used, used to be enfleurage A ton of flowers to yield a kilo of essence Extremely expensive Wide range of jasmonoid compounds, biosynthesis perhaps similar to prostaglandins Benzyl acetate and related compounds common
Jasmine
Tuberose
Polyanthes tuberosa Amaryllis relative Expensive, low yield to extract, done by enfleurage until relatively recently Many fragrance compounds (eugenols, nerol) also some weird tuberose lactones
Orange
Citrus species Flowers, leaves, fruits, even bark all used Distillation or solvents used Wide range of compounds isolated, including linalool
Bergamot
Citrus bergamia Zests from unripe fruits used Harmonious with many other compounds; contains linalool, limonene does not dominate in this as it does in orange oil Coumarins removed from essence (photosensitizing) In Earl Grey tea, as well as perfumes, soaps Eau de Colognes
Iris of Florence
Iris pallida Violet-scented rhizomes (orris root) used to produce a concrete with iron in myristic acid (called a butter) In perfume with heavy, woody notes
ylang-ylang
Cananga odorata, related plants From SE Asia (?) Annonaceae Very floral scent Several common compounds (eugenols, linalool) also p-Cresyl methyl ether
stinks by itself, but blends well
Patchouli
Shrub in the mint family Pogostemon cablin Distilled dried leaves yield several important fragrances Distinctive strong odor, but also mixes well
now grown in Madagascar More than 200 compounds have been identified Extract used in small amounts in perfumes; its very strong Lots of synthetic vanillin relatives used
Vanillin analogs, some with carnation, cocoa butter overtones
vanillin
Oakmoss
Evernia prunastri A lichen found in much of Europe Some constituents now synthesized
Fixatives
Various animal products
Ambergis, musk, castoreum, civet synthetics often used now e.g. ambergris compound from sage
Others
Ginger, cardamom, pepper (Piper nigrum), clove Many more
Perfume themes
Floral Chypre (bergamot, jasmine, oakmoss) Aldehydic (most famous is Chanel No.5, described as piquant) Fouger (lavender, coumarin, oakmoss), often in mens products Woody (sandlewood, patchouli, cedar) Oriental (includes vanilla, ambergris)
Remember, they are all chemicals! We may actually know more about the synthetic mixtures than the natural ones
Concerns
Toxicity to people? Allergens? Increasing asthma incidence? Unknown compounds in the mix? Persistence in the environment?
Example: synthetic musk
Synthetic musk
May accumulate in some organisms (e.g. mussels), prevents removal of other toxins