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P A R I S
Contents
THEATRES, TUNNELS AND TINY THINGS
CLASSIC LYON
Contrasts - Meet the Confluence Les Traboules - A Trip Through Time Only Lugdunum Lyon: The Directors Cut Hidden Secrets Walled Up 6 10 12 18 30 32
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INTRODUCTION
Lyon may be called Frances Second City, yet in reality it trumps its capital counterpart in nearly every category. Paris has the Seine? Thats cute. Lyon offers a choice of rivers, the Rhne and Sane. Whereas Parisians often meet travellers with a scowl of resentment, the Lyonnais are keen to share a smile and a story. A night out on the town in Paris will have you scratching your head the next morning, wondering where all of your euros went. Nightlife in Lyon, on the other hand, will leave you with at least enough money to pay for a slice of pizza on your stumble home. Paris may be called The City of Love, but Lyon is the city where you will actually feel the love. As this guide will prove, there are many reasons why Lyon should be top of your travel bucket list. Take a wander through the pages and you will discover a whole new take on the city. From history to hangover cures, tourist gems to hipster trends and Franais to Lyonnais, youll find everything you need right here. Book your flight and pack your bags the true French capital awaits.
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Rhne-Alpes France
lyon
Traboules
Croix-Rousse
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A trip from old to new Lyon will make you feel like entering another world. Start in the historical core between Place des Terreaux and Place Bellecour in a southerly direction, and relish the view over the historical places and buildings whilst walking along the pedestrian streets. Now and then, have a break and sit outside one of the numerous cafs, bars or restaurants tucked away within the small lanes: just watch the world go by and enjoy the sound of Frenchspeakers surrounding you. From typical Lyon specialities, such as crpes and ice cream, to international cuisine, you will surely find the right meal for you. In particular, dont miss a visit to Place des Jacobins with its imposing fountain. This is Lyon in its purest form. Go further southwards and you will continue to discover the historical and cultural centre of Lyon, with its small and original shops and bars and its huge variety of museums, theatres and old churches. A look inside the mosaic-lined chapels will leave you in awe. If you suddenly face a building that looks like an enormous spaceship behind Place Carnot, you have arrived at the station of Perrache, that stands above the freeway separating Confluence from the rest of Lyon. In case you went along the water and just found the freeway: dont worry, you have the same chance to reach Confluence as everyone else. Just search for a tunnel leading to the other side, or as highly recommended, avoid it and try to find the metro station of Perrache. Seeing these tunnels might be an experience, but struggling through the metro station is an adventure in itself, just without the typical, odious human stench found inside tunnels. After you have finally made your way through the labyrinth of this building,
the hardest part is over; just keep going straight. You know that youre about to enter Confluence when huge construction sites appear on the left hand side (southeast) and the landscape starts to change into a rotten, neglected factory area. Thats how it used to look like before the construction work started. Surely still a good setting for a horror movie. In extreme contrast, you face this giant, hyper-modern residential area to the right (northwest) with a giant shopping mall right in the centre of the neighbourhood. Including 106 shops, 12 restaurants, a cinema, parking space for 1500 cars, a hotel and even a climbing wall, it represents a whole new life for Confluence. In addition, strolling through the newly built quarter around Place Nautique is worth the walk, even though it still gives you a feeling of sterility and artificiality. Confluence has provided living space for people of every age and social background since 2008, as students and single parents live next door to yuppies and high-achievers, meaning that this face-lift represents just another example of the diversity of Lyon. More information can be found in the Confluence museum - another futuristic spaceship building, which is however not completed yet. According to the plans, it should be finished in 2014; for more information see the web page at www. lyon-confluence.fr.
Town Houses
Vieux Lyon
Apartments
Confluence
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to hide from the Gestapo. This was particularly useful in the early days of occupation, when only the Lyonnais knew of their existence. If you only have time for one, make sure to visit La Traboule de la Tour Rose. One of Lyons most famous traboules, it is known for its warm terracotta interior. Or if you have a little more time, cross over to Rue St Jean in the citys longest pathway, known as la longue traboule. Residents of the apartments surrounding the traboules have agreed to keep them open to the public between the hours of 8am and 7pm but some will nevertheless be closed. Your best bet is therefore to arrive as early as possible, but make sure to keep noise to a minimum the residents can be a little wary of tourists.
La Longue Traboule
54, Rue St Jean Metro D - Vieux Lyon
industry that made the citys name. Les canuts silk weavers used the traboules of Croix-Rousse to transport their wares to market. By the 1830s, the area became a hotbed of revolutionary activity, as disaffected workers marched through the traboules and briefly took control of the city. In the 20th century, the traboules again became a focal point for conflict. Their capacity for stealth was put to good use during the Second World War, as the French Resistance used the passageways
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Munipal Buildings
Gier Aqueduct
Only Lugdunum
Did you know Lyon was once a capital city? And not just of the area now called France, but of the whole region of Gaul? Well, way back in 43BC the Roman General, Lucius Munatius Plancus, was tasked with founding a colonia here by the Senate. The spot was considered important because of the two major rivers it overlooked, but it was really more of a ratification exercise since people from nearby Vienne (known as Vienna) had already started to settle here. Although the towns official name was Colonia Copia Felix Munatia, after its founder, the inhabitants gave it the much catchier name of Lugdunum, after Lug, the Celtic God of Light. It is a
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native connection that has been maintained to this day through Lyons reputation as the city of lights. Despite these Celtic remnants, however, ancient Lugdunum aptly fulfilled its role as the central hub (de facto) of Roman activity in the region. It hosted the annual Council of the Three Gauls, rivalled Rome itself in commerce and was proud to be distinguished as the birthplace of two highly successful Emperors (Claudius and Caracalla). Although much of the Roman remains are now lost beneath new buildings, the echoes of Lugdunum can still be found in Lyon if you know where to look. Simply follow this easy Roman guide to ensure that you dont miss out.
Roman Baths
Back down from Fouvire, on Rue des Farges, youll find one of Lugdunums public baths. Large apartment buildings completely hide the ruins from the road, but pass under their open orange arches and the stonework bursts out of the hillside before you. Its difficult to identify any recognisable features without archaeological training, but the semi-secrecy of the site makes it worth the diversion.
ROMAN BATHS
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Gallo-Roman Museum
On the same site, built into the hillside, is the world-renowned Gallo-Roman Museum. An architectural curiosity in itself built by Bernard H. Zehrfuss out of Guggenheim-esque sculpted concrete its portallike windows give panoramic views over the Theatre and Odeon ruins. The layout is clearly divided into different areas of Roman life in Lugdunum (and elsewhere in the Rhne area) and there is a handy English audio tour with amusing scenes to guide you around. Like the Theatre ruins, there is more information in French, but the signboards throughout consistently offer something in both languages. There are perhaps too many stone epitaphs, but the museum also hosts some star attractions (like complete room-sized mosaics) to break the monotony. It is open daily between 10am and 6pm, except for Mondays and some public holidays. Entry is 7 (4 concessions), but completely free on Thursdays.
Gallo-Roman Museum
6, Rue de lAntiquaille Funiculaire - Minimes
Architecture
Gallo-Roman Museum
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