Where to eatbars & clubsdirectory & shoppingWhere to eat

Čiurlionis

What to seeWhat to seeWhat to seeWhat to see

Freshfromtheirsuccessbuildingasimilaradventure-filledspaceinPalanga,

localladsMarijusKrasnickasandKostasKačerauskasareatthetimeofgoing

topressbuildinganew,adrenalinesqueplaygroundforthebraveandfoolhardy

inDruskininkai.LocatedimmediatelynorthoftheDruskininkųVandensParkas,

theparkupinthetreeswillcontaincrazybridges,netsandallmannerofropecontraptionsovertheriver.TheparkisduetoopenintimeforthehighseasonatthestartofJune.

Wild adventure

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Editorial

Editor

Sco

Research

SaulinaKochanskaitė

Layout &Design

VaidaGudynaitė

CoverPhoto

MonumenttoM.K.

Čiurlionis

(1975)by

VladasVildžiūnas

(photographer,AnnaKaciun)

Text andphotoscopyright UABVIYP 1992-2010;somephotos,LATGA-A;maps,cartographer.All

rightsreserved.No part of thispublicationmay bereproducedinany form,except brief extractsfor thepurposeof review,without writtenpermission fromthepublisher andcopyright owner.The

brandnameInYourPocketisusedunderlicense fromUABInYourPocket(Vokiečių10-15,Vilnius,Lithuaniatel.+370-52122976).

Editor’s note

Theeditorialcontent of InYour Pocket guidesis

independent frompaid-for advertising.Sponsoredlistingsareclearly markedassuch.Wewelcomeallreaders‘ commentsandsuggestions.Wehavemadeevery effort to ensuretheaccuracy of theinformationat thetimeof goingto pressandassumeno responsibility for changesanderrors.

Druskininkai InYour Pocket

Vokiečių10-15Vilnius,Lithuania,LT-01130tel.(+370-5)2122976 fax(+370-5)2122982

druskininkai@inyourpocket.comwww.inyourpocket.com

ISSN2029-2368©UAB“VIYP”Print run6,000copies

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General Manager

RūtaKlimavičiūtė

Accounting

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Sales Manager

IngaGrikienytėIf you’rethinkingof visitingDruskininkaistrictly for thefinedining,think again.Although thefewoptionsavailableareperfectly adequate,there’sno

realinternationalfoodto behadoutsideof afewhotels,of which werecom-mendtherestaurantsinsidetheEuropaRoyaleandRegina.FromArmenianto pizzato Soviet slophowever,thepotsandpansof Druskininkaianditsimmediatesurroundingsbubbleaway day andnight,wishingonly to keep

youfedandhappy.Druskininkai’sthat sort of town,andif youhaven’t had

Armenianfoodbefore,youmay wellbevery pleasantly surprisedindeed.

Armenian

Armėniška El & El Užeiga

Grūtas,tel.+37068566600,www.armeni

skauzeigael-el.lt.

Closeto thecorner of theturnoff for Grūto Parkasandonly

reallyworthvisitingifyouhappentobedrivingpastorwaitingforabusintotown

acrosstheroad.Yourbestoptionhereistoavoideverythingthatisn’t

šašlykai

(skeweredkebabs),marinadedto perfectionandcookedonawoodfireinthetraditionalArmenianmanner.

Open09:00-22:00.

ABSW

Lithuanian

Thereareessentially two typesof Lithuanianrestaurant inLithuania.The first andmost obviousvariety featurespigtailedwaitressesinnationaldressservingplatesof potatoesandbeetroot soupinanatmospherereminiscent of anoldbarn.Thesecondislesseasy to pindown,andisperhapsbest describedasarestaurant or caféservingpredominantly but

not exclusively Lithuanianfavouritesinanatmosphereyouwon’t findany

-whereother thaninLithuania.Rather thaninsult thebest intentionsof thegoodrestaurant ownersof Druskininkaiandcalltheformer of thetwo Folk restaurants,wechooseto list both typesof restaurant together.

Bebenčiukas

C-3, M. K. Čiurlionio83, tel. +37031353514.

Located

inthebasement of aSoviet-erahousingblock,don’t expect winewaitersinbowtiesor for that matter amenuwritteninEnglish.For thosewho don’t mind

muckinginwith thelocals,rewardscomeaplenty,includingana-to-z of deli-ciousif unambitiousLithuanianlunchtimefavouritesonthemenu,allof them for unbelievable,seemingly giveaway prices.

Open10:00-20:00.

Forto Dvaras

B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio55, tel. +37031355438.

Pridingthem-selvesonchurningout traditionalLithuaniancuisineusinglocalingredients,this

ever-expandingnationalchain’sDruskininkaioperationcanbefoundoverlooking

the lake, just next to the Druskininkai Museum. The interior is folksy without goingto Disneylandproportionsandthefoodisgenerally excellent andfilling.

Open 11:00-22:00, Fri 11:00-23:00, Sat 10:00-23:00, Sun 10:00-22:00.

TBAUS

Senasis Nemunas

B-2, Fonbergo7, tel. +37031342079.

Slightly hiddenawaybutworththeminorsafarirequiredtolocateit,latter-dayLivingstoneswillberewardedwith sturdy woodentablessuitablefor groupsof dinersandanintriguing

housedishofturkeyandpork.Gearedalmostexclusivelytowardsthelocals,menushavethankfully beenprovidedto makeupfor thestaff’slack of English.

Open

10:00-22:00,Fri,Sat 10:00-23:00.

TBAUSW

Vido Malūnas

Veisiejų4, tel. +37031352356.

Insideaconvertedwater millontheRatnyčiaat thefar southeasternendof town,Vidas’Millisespecially

worth avisit duringthesummer whenyoucansit outsideonthepleasant terrace.Thefoodrangesfromclassicgrilledmeat dishesto thegreat bigostentatiousaffairsthat theLithuaniansandPolesdo so well.Oneof thebest placesintown formeetingmembersofthelocalcommunity.

Open10:00-22:00,Fri,Sat10:00-24:00.

ABSW

Pizza

Čili Pica

A-2, Vilniaus 13 (Druskininkų Vandens Parkas), tel. +370313 531 53.

Vast and joined together with little glass bridges over pools full of goldfish, Lithuania’s favourite pizza chain stokes the stomachs of Druskininkai’s diners with a tempting array of pizza including several op

-tions for vegetarians plus a further foray into the non-pizza world cour-

tesy of a battalion of pasta and meat dishes. If you prefer a more intimatepizzaexperience,it’sonly afewminuteswalk to Sicilia.

Open10:00-24:00.

PTASW

Sicilia

B-2, Taikos 9, tel. +37031351865.

After atough day relaxingandgenerally doingnothing,plonk yourself downat alargebeech tableandchoose

fromoneofsome60savouryandacoupleofsweetpizzas,cookedinminutesand

servedwith asmile.Siciliaalso servesafinerangeof saladsandsomedecent

potatopancakes.Ifyou’redraggingsomebodysmallaroundtown,there’sadiminu

tiveyet thoughtfulchildren’smenutoo.Also at (B-3)M.K.Čiurlionio 56.

Open

10:00-23:00,Fri,Sat 10:00-24:00.

PTASW

Soviet

Grūto Parko Kavinė

Grūtas, tel. +37031347914.

Acountry-stylerestau-

rant fullof stuffedanimalsandphotographsof thesculpturepark’sGreat Leader

catchingbigfish onthewalls,amongthelocaldishesonoffer findasmallmenuof classicSoviet-erasnacksincludingspratswith aglassof vodka,borsch andgreasy meat cutlets.

Open09:00-22:00.

TAUS

AsmallspatowninEasternEuropeishardly goingto providethesort of nightlifeworthy of adoublepagespreadinasparklingCondéNast publication,but for aplacethesizeof Druskininkai,thethingsto do after sunset arebetter thanever andimprovingallthetime.Featuringeverythingfromluridbarsfullof tipsy localsto oneor two surprisingly modernclubs,Druskininkaimay not be

ableto promisehappinessor themother of allpubcrawls,but that’snot really why it’sthereinthefirst place.

Bars

Salt Blues

B-2,Vilniaus7,tel.+37031342221.

Alarge,semi-circularconser-

vatorywithoutthefoliageiswhatyou’llfindinsidetheEuropaRoyale’sin-housebar.

About asaction-packedastheSaharamost of thetime,asuddeninfluxof guests

seesit transformed,especially duringthesummer whentheoutsideseating’savailable,intoalively,chatteringden.ThedraughtGuinnessissuperb,andamong

thecheapest inthecountry.

Open11:00-24:00.

PBALSW

Saulėgrąža

B-2,Vilniaus22,tel.+37031352318.

Intheheartoftheac

tionyetrefusingtobowtotastelesstouristprinciples,TheSunflower’scafé-bar

credentialsmakeitworthapeepinsideanytimeofnightorday.Thegloomy woodeninteriorhidesaninterestingmixofcolourfullocals,and,bestofall,theroomtotheleftcomeswithtwopooltablesandanotherforRussianbilliards.

Open10:00-20:00,Fri,Sat10:00-24:00.Openinsummer08:00-24:00.

Clubs

Amber

A-2,Vilniaus13(DruskininkųVandensParkas),tel.+37031359195.

Somewhatawkwardlyhiddenawayatthebottomofaflightofconcretestepsthatleadtoanundergroundcarpark,AmbercaterspredominantlytotheEasternEuropeanholidaycrowd.Accordingly,theplaceisawashwithmirrorballsandareaswithlargesofasonwhichtositandshowoffyourbling.Themusicpolicy,which

featuresbothLithuanianDJsandsomelivemusic,is100%blandEuropeanpop.

Open22:00-03:00,Fri,Sat22:00-04:00.ClosedMon,Tue,Wed,Sun.Entrance15-50Lt.

Dangaus Skliautas

B-3,Kurorto8,tel.+37031351819.

Locatedimme-diatelybehindthelacklustrerestaurantofthesamename,thisnowlegendaryDrus-kininkainightclubontwolevelspandersalmostexclusivelytolocalboysandgirlsin

theirlateteens.ExpectDJsandlivebandsbatteringthebrainsofthetown’scashiers

andconstructionworkerswithaninsipidblendofcolourlesspap.

OpenFri,Sat

21:00-03:00.ClosedMon,Tue,Wed,Thu,Sun.Entrance15-50Lt.

PAIS

Kolonada

B-2, Kudirkos 22, tel. +37031351222, www.kolonada.lt.

A coupleof sofas,apot-belliedstoveandafewchairsandtablesto theright of the

entranceprovidethesettingforthetown’soneandonlylivejazzvenue.Essentially

anoversizedmusicalgreenhousewith awaitress,themusiccomesinallflavours,unlikethebeer which at thetimeof writingconsistedof Hornontapandafew

cansof Guinness.Theadmissionpriceisabsurdly expensive,afact only just

eclipsedinitssillinessby thepolicy of allowingeverybody sittingto theleft of theentrancetowatchtheshowwithoutpaying.However,wemustapplauditforbeing

theonly culturalvenueintownto appealto theover-16s.

Open11:00-23:00,Fri,Sat 11:00-04:00.Entrancefor concerts20-40Lt.Freeentranceto thebar.

PBAUIESW

Wine

Lithuania’sgoingwinecrazy at themoment,with placesto quaff thestuff

springingupinallmajor cities.Druskininkaiisyet to fully catch up,with theexceptionof thefollowingestablishment.

Kurorto Vyninė

B-2, Vilniaus 8-4, tel. +37031352385, www.kurortovy

nine.lt.

Littlemorethanadecent shopsellingalargeamount of quality wineas

isthecurrent trendinLithuania,there’saspaceto sit anddrink thestuff here,

althoughithardlyqualifiesasabar.Handyforpickingupabottleforpeoplelooking

for anight inback at their hotelwho’dprefer not to pay hotelwineprices.

Open

11:00-19:00,Fri11:00-20:00,Sat 10:00-19:00.

Adult entertainment

Gentleman’s Club

A-2, Vilniaus 13(DruskininkųVandens Parkas), tel.+37069999033.

InsidetheAmber nightclub(seeabove),roomfor 20men

and/orwomentoenjoythepleasuresofmaleandfemaleeroticdancersthroughout thenight.

Openby appointment only.

Theplaceto look if youcan’t findwhat youneedintherest of theguide.

Banks

DNB Nord

M. K. Čiurlionio 50, tel. 1608.

Open 08:00-18:00. Closed

Sat,Sun.

SEB Bankas

V. Kudirkos 37, tel. +37031360552.

Open08:00-17:00.

ClosedSat,Sun.

Snoras

Vilniaus 13, tel. +37031351930.

Open09:00-18:00,Sat,Sun10:00-15:00.

Swedbank

M. K. Čiurlionio107(IKI), tel. 1884.

Open08:00-18:00,Sat 09:00-14:00.ClosedSun.

Books etc.

Vaga

M. K. Čiurlionio75, tel. +37031351525.

Open09:00-18:00,Sat 09:00-14:00.ClosedSun.

Dentists

J.MelničenkoStomatologijosKabinetas

M.K.Čiurlionio84-2,tel.+37031351896.

We’venotmanagedtofindanEnglish-speakingdentistinDruskininkai,

butthisnicepersontellsusallarewelcomesolongastheycanbringaninterpreter.

ForalistofEnglish-speakingdentistsinLithuania,seeourVilniusguide.

Open

09:00-17:00.ClosedSat,Sun.Check-upfreeofcharge.Fillings50Lt.

Flowers & Plants

Passiflora

Ateities 7, tel. +370 313 457 34.

Open 07:00-21:00, Sun08:00-17:00.

Gifts & Souvenirs

Inkliuzija

Vilniaus10a,tel.+37031356068.

Amber,goldandsilverjewellery.

Open10:00-18:30,Sat 10:00-17:00,Sun11:00-17:00.

Sidabrinė Kamėja

Vilniaus13,tel.+37031358096.

AlsoatM.K.Čiurlionio63b,M.K.Čiurlionio 50.Goldandsilver jewellery.Lithuaniansouvenirs.

Open

10:00-19:00.

Sofa

Vilniaus 10, tel. +37031351034.

MiscellaneousLithuanianartworks,paintings,ceramicsetc.

Open08:00-17:00,Sat 11:00-17:00.ClosedSun.

Hospitals

Druskininkų Ligoninė (Druskininkai Hospital)

Sveikatos30,tel.+37031359130.

Insurance

Lietuvos Draudimas

M. K. Čiurlionio107, tel. +37031351245.

Open

08:00-18:00,Sat 09:00-14:00.ClosedSun.

Pharmacies

Euro Vaistinė

M. K. Čiurlionio50, tel. +37031351164.

M.K.Čiurlionio 99,Veisiejų31.

Open08:00-19:00,Sat 09:00-18:00,Sun09:00-15:00.

Post

Central Post Office (Senasis Paštas)

Fonbergo4, tel. +37031351336.

Open08:00-18:00,Sat 08:00-13:00.ClosedSun.

Supermarkets

IKI

M. K. Čiurlionio107, tel. +37031351134.

Lithuania’sfirst Western-style

supermarket chain. Their Druskininkai offering sells a good range of local andimportedfoodanddrink,plusstationary,socksetc.

Open08:00-22:00.

Maxima

M. K. Čiurlionio99, tel. +37031360323.

Currently intheprocesstakingover thecountry with their aggressiveapproach to business,theMaxima

storeinDruskininkaisellsanaveragerangeof foodanddrink.Also at Veisiejų31,M.K.Čiurlionio 50.

Open08:00-22:00.

Norfa

Gardino37, tel. +37065613008.

Thecountry’slowbudget shopping option.Goodfor cut pricetinnedgoodsandalcoholbut not much more.

Open

08:00-21:00.

Accordingto thelocalRussianOrthodoxpriest,themudusedfor therapeuticpurposesinDruskininkaiis,unlikemost mudusedintheWest,pure,andthereforemuch,much better for you.Thismay or may not betrue,but what isfor certainisthat likejust about everywhereelseintheworld,Druskininkaiisbeingforcedto adopt amoremodernapproach inorder to surviveasatourist destination.Whereoncethetownofferednothingbut fresh air,exercise,mineralbathsandapeaceful,naturalenvironment,it nowseesamodernisticvisionof naturecompletewith spaceship-lookingbuildingsconcealingscoresof tiredexecutivesandtheir wivesinnylonunderpantsreceivingelectronic

therapy under fluorescent lightsto thesoundof MTV.Natureisfightingback however,andthebalanceisbeingrightfully restored.If your ideaof arelaxing

weekend

isn’t

lyingby thesideof anindoor swimmingpoolandlisteningto the

screamsof 500children,beassuredthat therearemorethanenough peace

- fuloptionsonoffer aswell.

Bowling & Billiards

Alita

A-2, Vilniaus 13(AquaMedūna), tel. +37031359195.

Petitebowl-

ingonjust four lanesplusthechanceto loseallyour money inaslot machine.If youreally likeit hereandhaven’t gambledallyour money away youcanalso take

advantageof thein-housecatering.

Open12:00-23:00,Fri,Sat 11:00-24:00,Sun11:00-22:00.

Atlantida

C-2,Dineikos1(SpaVilniusSana),tel.+37031351604.

Sixlanes

of bowling,Russianbilliards,threepooltables,dartsandabar insideSpaVilnius

Sana.

Open16:00-23:00,Fri,Sat 13:00-02:00,Sun13:00-23:00.

Sūkurys

B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio51, tel. +37031352212, www.sukurys.lt.

Eight lanesof bowling,two pooltables,aboxingmachineandoutdoor tennis

courts.There’sabar too,which seemsto bethefavouritehaunt of thetown’syouth who stillaren’t oldenough to get into aproper bar or aclub.Accordingly it

getsbusy (if not alittlerowdy)duringweekends.

Open17:00-24:00,Fri17:00-02:00,Sat 11:00-02:00,Sun11:00-22:00.

Massage & Spa

Aqua Rojus

A-2, Vilniaus 13, tel. +37069708008, www.aquameduna.lt.

Tip-top,hi-tech treatmentsfor beauty andwell-beingincludingfacials,steambaths, massage and the fabulous-sounding weightlessness therapy.

Open

11:00-21:00,Fri,Sat,Sun10:00-22:00.

Druskininkų Gydykla

B-2, Vilniaus 11, tel. +37031360508, www.gy

dykla.lt.

Aninterestingcollectionof oldandnewarchitectureinperhapsthebest locationintown.Therangeoftherapiesonofferisextensive,includingtreatments for everythingfromheart diseaseto breathingproblems.Lieinabath of mudor simply takeacurativeshower.

Open09:00-18:00.

East Island

A-2, Vilniaus 13 (Druskininkų Vandens Parkas), tel. +37031356643, www.east-island.lt.

Combinedspa,massageandwhat they callexotictreatments(honey andchocolatemassagesetc.,nothingsaucy)insidethe

DruskininkųVandensParkas.Thelist of servicesavailableislonger thanthetele

-phonebillfortheentireSecondWorldWar.Checkthewebsiteformoreinformation.

Open10:00-21:00,Fri,Sat 10:00-22:00,Sun09:00-21:00.

River trips

Thereareamultitudeof thingsto do inanontheNemunas,fromjumpinginit to goingonasteamboat excursion.At thetimeof writingtherewaslittle

informationonwhat’sgoingto beavailableduringthesummer 2009season.

Besureto findcanoesfor rent andalmost certainly moreexcursionsthanthe

onelistedhere.For moreinformation,contact theTourist InformationCentreor

ask inyour hotel.

Excursion to Liškiava

A fine way of spending three hours is to take a river excursion to Liškiava (see

below). Departing daily at 14:30 from the small (B-2) landing stage close to

the Europa Royale hotel, a little white steamboat whisks you north to thesmall settlement where a tour guide takes you round the sights including theremains of the castle and the Dominican monastery. Only tea and coffee isserved on board, so bring a picnic if you need food. Tours run between May

1 and October 20 and cost 32Lt. Under-16s go half price, and children under

six can come along for free.

The great outdoors

Onecouldbeexcusedfor thinkingthat everythingthereisto seeanddo inDruskininkaitakesplaceunder aroof of onedescriptionor another.Not so.For thoselookingfor aliteralbreath of fresh air,thetownandsurrounding regioncanaccommodateinplenty of ways.Thestartingpoint isinoneof theparksor gardensmentionedintheSightseeingsectionof thisguide,which canbeenjoyedonfoot or with thehelpof two wheels.Severalcycleroutes,eachdividedinto different lengthsfor different abilitiesandtastes,nowexist inandaroundDruskininkai,takingyouonanumber of pleasant meanderingjourneysaroundlakesandthrough forests.Thesesameroutescanalso beenjoyed

duringthewinter,at least they canwhenthere’ssnowontheground,careof

cross-country skiing.Plantshavebeengrownalongpartsof theseroutesto in-troducespecifichealth-givingpropertiesinto thelungs.Thetownalso providesopportunitiesfor everythingfromquadbikeadventuresto ice-hockey onthelakeduringthewinter.For maps,informationonhiringbicyclesandmoreabout

themultitudeof availableoutdoor options,visit theTourist InformationCentre

or speak to somebody inyour hotel.Thelocalair really iscleanandthenature,if not exactly breathtaking,isat least picturesque.Druskininkaiisby no stretch of theimaginationbristlingwith fabulouschurchesandworldclassmuseums.What it doespossesshowever areahandfulof placesto visit offeringafascinatinginsight into thetownandsomeof itsmore

illustriousformer inhabitantsaswellasafewevocativegems.It’spossibletouseupanentireday exploringthetown’sculturalsightsandopenspaces,and

wellworth makingthetimeto do so.

Cemeteries

TheOldTownCemetery (SenosiosMiesto Kapinės),locatedimmediately west

of thebusstationprovidesaswift andatmosphericethnichistory lesson, featuringgravesgoingback severalhundredyearswith inscriptionsinPolish,

Lithuanian,RussianandBelarusian.Onecanonly wonder wherethetown’s

former Tartar community areburied.Thetwo other cemeteriesof notearelocatedjust south andnorth of theOldTownCemetery respectively.

Jewish Cemetery (Žydų Kapinės)

C-2.

JewsstartedsettlinginDruskininkai

relatively lateby Lithuanianstandardsinthemiddleof the18th century,working ascraftsmenandbusinessmenaswellasinvariousmerchant trades.Thetown’smost famousJewwasthesculptor JacquesLipchitz (1891-1973),who livedthereuntilhewas18.MakinguparoundhalfofDruskininkai’spopulationbythebeginning of the20th century,WWIIsawthetown’sthrivingJewish community thrownout

of their homesandforcedto liveinhutsintheoutskirtsof thecity beforebeing

sent viatheconcentrationcampat KielbasininAugust 1942to their deathsinthegaschamber at theTreblinkaexterminationcampsoonafter.What’sleft of thetown’sJewish cemetery ishiddeninthewoodsafewhundredmetresdirectly southwest of theTourist InformationCentreat Gardino 3.

Soviet Soldiers’ Cemetery (Sovietų Karių Kapai)

C-2.

TheSovietregimereplacedtheNaziregimeinDruskininkaiwiththecapturingofthetownbyRedArmy

soldiersonJuly14,1944.AsinmanyotherEasternEuropeantowns,the‘liberation’wascommemoratedwiththeopeningofacemeterytohonourStalin’sfallentroops.Druskininkai’sSovietCemeterymovedtwicebeforebeingfinallysettledinthislake

sidespotsouthwestofthebusstationin1962,havingpreviouslybeenrelocated

frommoresensitivepartsofthetownincludingneartotheCatholicchurch.AtthenorthernendofthecemeteryisatypicallybombasticworkofSovietart.Moreinterestingaretheindividualgraves,ofwhichsomearestillwelllookedafter.

Churches

Holy Virgin Mary Scapular Church (Švč. Mergelės MarijosŠkaplierinės Bažnyčia)

B-2, Fonbergo15, tel. +37031355228.

The

first brick church inDruskininkaiwascompletedinthe1844.Sufferingasingu

larly strangecareer,thechurch didn’t get apriest until1879,andwaseventually

demolishedunder puzzlingcircumstancesin1931,thesameyear thecurrent

church wascompleted.Ared,neo-Gothicbeauty,thebuildingwasdesignedby thePolish architect StefanSzyller (1857-1933).Countlessvisitshavefoundthedoors firmly bolted, although we’re reassured by the local tourist information

peoplethat they shouldbeopeninthefuture.

Services:18:00,Sat 10:00,Sun09:00,10:30,12:00.

Russian Orthodox Church (Druskininkų Ortodoksų Bažnyčia)

B-2,LaisvėsAikštė,tel.+37031355544.

Originallybuiltbetween1861and1865,thisdiminutivebluewoodenbuildingisdelightful,bothinsideandout.Whenyou’ve finishedgapinginwonder at theexterior (unfortunately theglazedcupolascan’t

bevisited)go through themaindoor andbeastonishedat thesheer splendour of thearray of iconsandreligiouspaintingsscatteredthroughout.Thechurch wascompletelyrenovatedtowardstheendoftheSovietoccupationwiththeassistanceof expertsfromtheHeritageMuseuminSt.Petersburg.

Museums

Druskininkai Museum (Druskininkų Muziejus)

B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio59, tel. +37031351024.

Housedinsideaspectacular whitevillaoverlooking

Druskonio Ežeras(DruskonisLake),thiscollectionof smallroomspackedwith old

photographs,furniture,maps,letters,bottles,pianosandmuch morebesideschartstheriseof Druskininkaiasahealth resort andalso findstimeto host theoccasionalconcert.Of particular interest arethefabulousmapsonthewalls,in-cludingtheonefrombetweenthewarsthatclearlyshowsthebizarreinternational

border runningdownthemiddleof MeilėsSala(seeParks& Gardens).Thenice

peoplewho work herespeak someEnglish,andcanbepersuadedto showyou

aroundif it’snot too busy.Charming,andhighly recommended.

Open11:00-17:00.ClosedSun.Admission:adults3Lt,students,children1Lt.

Forest Echo (Girios Aidas)

M. K. Čiurlionio 116, tel. +370 313 53901/+37061517266.

Thearchitecturalbrainchildof AlgirdasValavičiusandrunby theLithuanianForesters’Union,thisuniquewoodenstructurejust out of towninthedirectionof Grūto Parkasisessentially aneducationmuseumaimedat en

lighteningthelocalpopulationonallthingsnaturalaswellasexplaininghumanity’s

placeandfunctionwithinthenaturalworld.Featuringawealth of exhibitsincluding

woodcarvings,stuffedanimalsandasmalldisplay commemoratingLithuania’smost celebratednaturalist,TadasIvanauskas(1882-1971),outsidefindalarge

collectionoflargewoodcarvingsandaspeciallydesignedtrailtofollowthroughthewoods.Unfortunately most displaysareinLithuanianonly,although someprintedinformationisavailableinEnglish onrequest.

Open10:00-18:00.ClosedMon,Tue.Admission:adults5Lt,children2Lt.

Jacques Lipchitz Memorial Museum (Ž. Lipšico Memorialinis Muz

iejus)

B-2, Šv. Jokūbo17, tel. +37031356077.

BornChaimJacobLipchitz,

Druskininkai’smost notableJewwaswithout doubt theCubist sculptor knowninternationally asJacquesLipchitz (1891-1973).Thissmallmuseumdedicatedto

hismemory isclosedfor alargepart of theyear,but if enough noisesaremade

intheright direction(themuseumispart of theJewish NationalMuseum),it’s

possibleto havealook inside.

OpenJun-Sep.Tue-Thu12:00-17:00.Closed

Mon,Fri,Sat,Sun.Admissionfree.

Museum of Resistance & Deportation (Rezistencijos ir TremtiesMuziejus)

B-2, Vilniaus 24, tel. +37065608373.

Hiddenaway insideanondescript buildinginthecentreof theactionthisdiminutivemuseumaimsthespotlight onthelocalresistancemovement who fought theSoviet occupiersfrom

their forest hideawaysfromtheendof WWIIuntilthelast of themwereflushedout

in1953.Alowbudget affair with littleinformationinEnglish,ajourney roundwithsomebodywhocantranslateforyoumakestheexperiencemuchmoreworthwhile.Seldom open to the public, a telephone call usually gets the doors unlocked.

Open13:00-17:00.ClosedMon,Tue,Thu,Fri,Sat.Admissionfree.

Out of town

Česnulis Rest & Sculpture Park (Česnulio Poilsio ir Skulptūrų Par

kas)

Naujasodė, tel. +37031352448, www.cesnuliusodyba.puslapiai.lt.

Localwoodcarver AntanasČesnulis’gardenhasbeenturnedinto alargetimber

fairytale,completewithanextraordinary,four-storeywindmillhebuilthimselfattheentrance.Thejovialfolk artist haslivedherefor somethreedecades,producingarangeof carvingsboth bigandsmallandbasedonmany charactersfromreligious

figuresto peopleinthetheatre.Aninterestingdiversion,Naujasodėisabout 3km fromDruskininkai,just theother sideof Ratnyčia.

Open09:00-17:00.Admis

sion:adults5Lt,children3Lt.

Liškiava

Unmissable,andjust 8kmor so north alongtheNemunas,thetiny

settlement of Liškiavahasbeenknownto exist asaplaceof relativeimportance

sinceitsfirst writtenaccount in1044,although excavationsprovethat thearea

hasbeenpopulatedfor morethantwo thousandyears.Although celebratedfor possessingno lessthanfour archaeologicalmonuments,namely theAlkaMound

(AlkosKalnas),Church Hill(BažnyčiosKalnas),TheBull’sHeelStone(Akmuo suJaučio Pėda)andtheWitches’Stone(RaganųAkmuo),themainreasonto visit ispredominantlyanarchaeologicalone.Hometotheremainsofa14th-centurycastleandthemarvellous18th-century DominicanMonastery,theformer,built to thwart

theever-threateningTeutonicOrder,wasoriginally awoodenconstruction,later updatedto astronger structureandeventually abandonedafter theOrder was

crushedatthe1410BattleofGrunwald(Žalgiris).Themonasteryandsurrounding

ensembleof buildingssufferedconsiderably duringtheSoviet occupationandareintheprocessof completerenovationwith thehelpof money fromtheEU.The

attachedchurch hassomefineworksof art fromthe17th to the20th century.

Raigardas Valley

Less than 10km south of Druskininkai, the spectacular RaigardasValley (Raigardo Slėnis)offersaninstant glimpseinto thenaturethat

shapedthelocalculture.FromtheoldLithuanianmeaningSwampCity,Raigardaslegendtellsthat inthemistsof timethereoncestoodagreat city herethat was

swallowedupby theearth.Paganmythology aside,today’svalley landscapewas formedfairly recently about 5,000yearsago andisstillforming.Thevalley,which

iscoveredinpinetreesalltheway downto thebottomwherefreshwater springscanbefound,issurroundedby dunesandmeadowsburstingwith wildflowersandwildlifeduringthesummer.Thevalley isfabuloushikingterritory aswellastheidealplacefor apicnic.

events

Lithuania’sgreatest artist andcomposer wasaPolish-speakingmanby thenameof MikalojusKonstantinasČiurlionis.Borninthenearby townof Varėna,Čiurlionis(1875-1911)spent hischildhoodinDruskininkaiandthe

townremainsthespiritualhomeof themuch lovedman.Animmensely

prolificartist,Čiurlioniswroteextensively for thepiano,composedstring quartets,andalso pennedthecountry’sfirst symphony,

Miške

(InThe

Forest).Hismusicalstyleshiftedbetweenthepastoralandromanticto

occasionaldabblingsinserialism.Abusy painter too,Čiurlioniswasoneof theprimary organisersof thecountry’sfirst exhibitionof Lithuanianart inVilniusin1907.Heservedasaconductor,wasdeeply involvedintheLithuanianindependencemovement,marriedthewriter SofijaKymantaitė,

dabbledinphotography andevenfoundtimeto designstainedglass.Suchahecticlifefor amanrenownedfor hisprofoundshynesswasboundto takeitstoll.Repeatingattacksof depressionsawhimfinally retiringto anursing

homenear Warsawwherehediedof pneumoniaat just 35.Čiurlionisleft

onedaughter,whomalthough almost ayear oldwhenhedied,henever saw.Severalof hisdescendentsstillliveinDruskininkai.

Čiurlionis Memorial Museum (Čiurlionio Memorialinis Muziejus)

B-2, M. K. Čiurlionio35, tel. +37031351131.

Possibly of moreinterest toanyonewho ever fanciedalook insideatraditionalLithuanianwoodenhouse,thissmallmuseumof four individualtimber buildingscanbefoundat thesite

of Čiurlionis’homefrom1890to 1910inthestreet that nowbearshisname.Themuseum’scontentsincluderecreationsofthelivingconditionsofthetime,reproductionsof Čiurlionis’worksandasmallgallery for temporary exhibitions.

Thefirst house,which also doublesastheticket office,sellsarangeof post-

cards,postersandCDsof theman’swork.Inthesummer themuseumboasts

bizarreweekendpiano concerts,duringwhich apianist playsthrough anopenwindowtoanaudiencesatoutsideinthegarden.

Open11:00-17:00.ClosedMon.Admission:adults4Lt,students,children2Lt.

Čiurlionis Monument

B-2.

Almost Cubist initsappearanceandunveiledin

1975,athree-metrelikenessofČiurlioniscanbefoundlurkingatthefarnorthern

endof Kudirkosandonthecover of thisguide.Cast inbronze,themonument is

thework of theLithuaniansculptor VladasVildžiūnas(b.1932).

Did you know we also publish full print guides to Vilnius,Kaunas and Klaipėda? Look out for them when in town

or visit lithuania.inyourpocket.com for more information

leisureWhat to seeleisure

Cross-country skiing AnnaKaciun

DateEventVenueMay2

GrūtasPark FestivalGrūtas

May

SeasonopeninginDruskininkaiEntertainment

Square(Vilniaus

11),DruskonisLake

May

Youth chamber musicdays

Druskomanija

Entertainment Square

May-September

DruskininkaiInternationalTheatre

FestivalEventsandconcert hallsaroundtown

May-September

MusicWeekendsEventsandconcert hallsaroundtown

June-September

InternationalArt Festival

DruskininkųVasarasu

M. K. Čiurlioniu

M.K.Čiurlionis

Museum,Drus-kininkaiMuseumDruskininkaieventsandconcert halls

June-September

CultureFestival

Vaivorykštė

Entertainment Square

June

DzūkijaRegionFolkloreDance

Festival

Kadagynė

Entertainment Square

June-August

Piano MusicSummer inDruskininkai

M.K.Čiurlionis

Museum,M.K.

ČiurlionisAcademy

of Music

(Vytauto 23)

June-August

Art Amatuers’Festival

MenųArtelė

Entertainment Square

July

InternationalPianists,Chamber

Piano Ensembles,Chamber OrchestraFestival

Muzikabe Sienų

Entertainment Square

July

InternationalArt Festival

Druskos Metamorfozės

Entertainment Square

August

DainavaFolkloreEvent Entertainment Square

August

Summer Event

Vasaros Aidai

Entertainment Square

September

InternationalSingingPoetry

Festival

Druskos Traukinys

Entertainment Square

September

InternationalPaintersMeeting

M. K. ČiurlionioDienos

MažojiGalerija(M.K.Čiurlionio 37)

September

PaintersMeeting

Raigardas

Variousoutdoor

locations

September

InternationalTourismDay and

outdoor picnics

Variousoutdoor

locations

October

InternationalLiteratureFestival

Poetinis DruskininkųRuduo

DainavaCentre

(Maironio 22)

December

NewYear’sEve& Christmas

eventsEntertainment Squareplusres-taurantsandhallsthroughout town

Druskininkai events 2009

Findmoreat www.info.druskininkai.lt

M.K.Čiurlionis

Raigardas Valley

(fragment)

ČiurlionisMemorialMuseum VaidaGudynaitė

Parks & Gardens

Aquick look at amapof Druskininkaishowsthetownasalittlespeck of orangeinahugeseaof green.Overflowingwith lush openspaces,fromthe

patchesof grasssurroundingtheCatholicchurch to the293-hectareforest that hemsit in,Druskininkai’sstatusasaruraloasisismorethanjustified.For

thoselookingfor outdoor rest andrelaxation,look no further.

Druskininkų Miškas (Druskininkai Forest)

Atalittleunder300hectares,DruskininkųMiškasprovidesplenty of opportunitiesfor gettingaway fromit all

onfoot or two wheels.Atypically EasternEuropeanparadiseof predominantly

pine,birch,lindenandchestnut trees,although it’snot exactly awildlifesanctu

ary there’sstillplenty of faunato befoundincludingsquirrels,hedgehogsand

anabundanceof birdlife.Popular with thelocalsyear round,includingduringtheautumnmushroomseason,theforest featuresseveralroutesto followonfoot or by bicycleduringthesummer andoncross-country skiswhenthesnowison

theground.Optionsfor thelatter includetheŽvaigždžiųOrbita(Orbit of theStars),which startsat Druskonio Ežeras(DruskonisLake)andfollowsanumber of routesof upto 24km.For moreinformationabout routesandbicyclerental,check out theTourist InformationCentreor ask inyour hotel.

Gydyklų Parkas (Health Resort Park)

A/B-2.

Featuringsomeofthequirki-est sculpturesinthecountry,thepark,likethetownitself,iscurrently receivingamakeover.Futurepromisedadditionsincludeinformationkiosks,health-orientatedpathwaysandanewfountain.Evenwithout these,theareaisparticularly niceduringthesummer monthsandoffersthechanceof abit of naturewithout having to go very far at all.

MeilėsSala RičardasMalinauskasDruskininkaiMuseum VaidaGudynaitėŠvendubrė AnnaKaciunTheNemunasnear Liškiava VaidaGudynaitė

Meilės Sala (Love Island)

A-1.

Thesmall,lozenge-shapedMeilėsSala(LoveIsland)ontheNemunasto thenorthwest of thetownrequiresaboat or abracing swimto reach it,but ismorethanworth theeffort if you’relookingfor alittleisola

-tion.Curiously,betweenthewarswhentheNemunasformedtheborder betweenLithuaniaandPoland,thelittleislandwassplit intwo by abarbedwirefence.Although no recordsremainregardingwhether theLithuaniansusedtheir half or not,thePolescontinuedto visit indrovesover afootbridgethat unfortunately no

longer remains,wherethey’dlieonthesouthernbeach afewmetresaway from

acountry they weretechnically at war with.

Sveikatingumo Parkas (Health Park)

B/C-2,Sausoji1.

Thisextraordinary exampleof post-war Soviet thinkingwasat onetimeasocially-designedspacefor thehealthy benefit of thecommonpeoplealthough it no longer seesregimentalrows of model Soviet citizens doing endless press-ups in Hungarian designer tracksuits.Onceplantedwith floradesignedfor their health-givingpropertiesand featuringacaféandoutdoor swimmingpool,thepark hassinceindependence

falleninto seriousdisrepair although it’sstillopento thepublic.Aninvestment of

1.5Lt millionhasbeenput asidefor itsregeneration,with Japanesegardens,anewbathhouseandprettypathsandbenchesallpromisedinthenearfuture.The

lovely mosaicby theentrancedatesfrom1962andisthework of theLithuanianartist MarijaMačiulienė(b.1929).

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Kaunas

My2008-My2009

HotelRetrtCfénightlifesighteeig EvetMpThor blimey!

Thunderhouse

Biršto

Spatown

Kediii

Thecentreof Lithuania.Andcucumbers

April- May2009

N°93-6Lt

www.inyourpocket.com

VILNIUS

Events

Thehighsandlowsof thecity’supcomingculturalcalendar

Trakai

Theidealdaytrip,andbigger andbetter thanever

HotelsRestaurantsCafésNightlifeSightseeing EventsMaps

April-May2009

“In Your Pocket:

A cheeky, well-written series of guidebooks.”

The New York Times

Grūto Parkas

Grūtas, tel. +370 313 555 11, www.grutoparkas.lt.

SeveralStalinsandloadsof Leninslitter thisbizarre,mildlycontroversialoutdoorsculpturepark

andinformationcentrelessthan10kmnorth of Druskininkaijust off themainroadto Vilnius.Thebrainchildof localmushroommillionaireViliumas

Malinauskas,gazeuponrowafter rowof retiredcommunist sculptures, collected en mass fromtheir former positionsof importancethroughout

Lithuania, and take a look inside the park’s

purpose-built wooden shacks which hide somewonderfulexamplesofSovietartandpropaganda.Asmallzoo isalso thoughtfully providedso the

wildboar inthecagescanbiteoff thelittlechildren’sfingers,andif you’rehungry there’sarestaurant too (seeWhereto eat).Designedto showthe

negativesideof theSoviet occupation,onedoeshaveto wonder whereall

themoney goes.It’scertainly not beingusedto helpoverthrowEurope’slast great dictatorshipafewkilometresaway inBelarus.Likeit or loatheit,Grūto

Parkasisunique,andanessentialpart of any visit to theareaif not Lithuaniaitself.Thestatueof aseatedLeninoncegracedthecentreof Druskininkaiandwasoneof only threeever madeof thegreat mansat onhisbehind.

Well signposted, find it less than 1km from the main Vilnius-Druskininkairoad.Busesrunregularly fromthecapitalto theturnoff.LocalbusNº2runsalltheway to thepark fromthefront of Druskininkai’sbusstation

Open

09:00-20:00.Admission:adults20Lt,children10Lt.

Grūto Parkas

M. Melnikaitė

sculptureby R.Antinis ScoTheubiquitousLithuaniancafé(

kavinė

)canbeanythingfromaninstantly recognisableplaceto drink espresso to arowdy bar fullof drunks.

Mona Liza

B-2,Kudirkos37,tel.+37069835364.

Itappearsalmost

impossibleto openacaféinDruskininkaiwithout buildingahotelupstairs

thesedays,MonaLizabeingthelatestexample.Insidethetown’soldpost officebuildinganddiagonallyoppositethelake,Viennaitisn’t,butdon’tlet that put youoff.Asthenameimplies,daVinci’senigmaticmasterpieceis

themaindrawhere,includingaseriesof amusingly createdif somewhat crudeincarnationsbuilt into thelight fittingsintheceiling.

Open10:00-22:00,Fri,Sat 10:00-23:00.

TASW

PepėsLedai

A-2,Vilniaus13(DruskininkųVandensParkas),tel.+37061605880.

Greenandpinkplasticfurnituretocomplimenttheice

cream,pluscoffee,softdrinks,wineandasmallselectionofspirits.Acon-venientlylocatedcafétohelpputthefatbackonyourbones.Alsoauseful,temporarydiversionforchildren.

Open13:00-21:00,Fri13:00-22:00,Sat12:00-22:00,Sun12:00-21:00.

Rūta

C-3, M. K. Čiurlionio97, tel. +37031347777.

Asomewhat pedestrianhotelcafé,thisoneplonkedafair distancefromtheaction.Alongsideamenuof café-stylebeveragesincludinganaveragecupof coffeeareacollectionof localhot dishesfor agoodprice.Findtheen-trancehiddenaway inanalcoveto theright.

Open08:00-22:00,Fri,Sat 08:00-23:00.

ABSW

Širdelė

A-2,Maironio16,tel.+37031359093.

ClosetotheDruskininkų VandensParkasthiswoodencafé-restaurantalsofunctionsasabarduring

theevenings.Decoratedinawoodenandslightlyausteremanner,itattractsalotoflocalswhoappreciatethecheapbeerandlargeportionsoflocalfood.Asmallterraceoutthefrontmakesanappearanceeverysummer.Meaning

LittleHeart,it’spartofthenearbyDainavacentre,whichspecialisesinheart

treatment.

Open11:00-23:30,Mon11:00-22:00.

ABW

Cafés

The accommodation available in the occasionally spectacular scenery around Druskininkai offers everything from a peaceful farmstead by the

side of a lake where you’ll be left in peace to the Lithuanian equivalent of

a boot camp complete with communal countryside living, sports activitiesand the chance to get horribly drunk on the local firewater with the locals.Plenty of superb, excellent value options are available, of which the Tourist

Information Centre are only too happy to advise on. As well as setting up

permanent camp, there are also plenty of options for moving about, mak-ing renting a car a necessity. For more information about car rental, see

Arriving & Getting around.

Countryside tourism

Švendubrė

Just 5kmsouthwest of Druskininkaiandcloseto theBelarusian

border,Švendubrėisasmalltraditionalvillageofparticulararchitecturalimportance.First mentionedin1620,thevillagefeaturesclassicDzūkija-stylehomesteads

insideenclosedyards.Thesettingitselfisfairlydramatic.NearbytheNemunykštisandNemunasriversmeet closeto thesteepBlack Mountain(JuodasisKalnas)that probably servedasadefensivepoint hundredsof yearsago completewithasmallwoodenfort.Fromthetopthepanoramaistruly outstanding.Just north

of thevillageistheso-calledŠvendubrėStone(ŠvendubrėsAkmuo),sometimesreferredto astheDevil’sStoneandapopular placeto visit with tour guidesdue

to themany legendsthat aretoldabout it.

Raudoni Drambliai

Tel. +370 643 334 33, info@raudonidrambliai.lt,www.raudonidrambliai.lt.

For thoselookingfor high adrenalinadventurewho

don’t mindscaringthelivingdaylightsout of thelocalwildlife,RaudoniDrambliai

(RedElephants)offer quadbikerentalandexcursionsinthelocalarea.Availablethroughout theyear andinallweather conditions,takealook at their Lithuanian-only websitefor photographicevidenceof their insanity.

Water parks

Druskininkų Vandens Parkas

A-2, Vilniaus 13-2, tel. +37031352338,www.akvapark.lt.

Convertedfromthetown’smost extraordinary Soviet-eraar

chitecturalmasterpiecewithnoattentiontoaestheticdetail,Druskininkai’snumber

onetourist attractionpandersto thelocalhoipolloiaswellasthemassesfrom further afield.So popular isit infact that anewbridgeacrosstheriver isbeing built to stemthehideousflowof trafficinthetowncentre,beggingthequestion

whether gettingany rest andrelaxationhereisat allpossible.There’sno escap

ingthefact however that it’sjolly goodfun.Expect alargepool,bubblingbrooks,

averitableSpaghettiJunctionof waterslides,restaurants,spa,massageandagaggleofin-houserestaurantsandcafés.

Open12:00-22:00,Fri12:00-23:00,Sat 10:00-23:00,Sun10:00-21:00.

Spa Druskininkai

B-2, Kudirkos 45, tel. +37031354401, www.spadrus

kininkai.lt.

Asmaller andlessfranticversionof itsvast neighbour,findthisonetuckedaway behindtheDruskininkaihotel.Theflyingsaucer designconcealsadecent sizedpoolwith water slidesand,accordingto their ownpublicity ‘naughty

waves’and‘funny showers’.There’sasaunatoo,plusarangeof massageand

spatreatmentsandanaveragecaféto boot.

Open12:00-22:00,Mon12:00-20:00,Sat 10:00-22:00,Sun10:00-20:00.