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A European Road Trip with John &Coco
 John & Coco in Gigondas
Planning trips in the later years of your life are necessary but sometimes postponed forone reason or another. My recent postponement was an encounter with cancer that leftme more focused on living the day than planning for the future. It was now time to plansomething, I didn’t think would happen again, like traveling back to Europe. The plantook several turns before magically coming together. I had first visited Italy 40 years agospending a year and, of course studying. Now in our sixties, Coco and felt compelled tofulfill a promise to our dear friend Chad to return to Italy after touring with him just priorto his death. With such great karma and our natural enthusiasm for travel, these two 60something’s decide to “step across the pond” once again.In early February we made the decision and began checking dates and our inventory of airline miles. We settled on dates but soon realized that we were short on the milesunless we purchased the balance. Airlines charge you a premium for each additionalmile and we momentarily decided to wait until next year in order to save enough milesfor free tickets. Disappointed, we resolved that it was not meant to be at this time. Three weeks later, out of the blue, United emailed a special promotion reducing themiles requirements by 20% which was mileage reduction we needed to use our current
 
miles without having to purchase any more miles. The only catch was that we had tocomplete travel by May 15
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and that was fine with us. We also had a limited numbercities and available seats for our “saver award tickets”. The travel Gods had spoken andwe set our dates. We now knew when and where we were arriving (Frankfurt) anddeparting and had to only fill in the rest of the trip. We had traveled on severaloccasions by train but now preferred traveling by car on this trip. The car had becomeour preferred travel mode mostly for the flexibility it offered in choosing roads lesstraveled. To most people, planning a trip like this would be relatively easy but for John and Cocoplanning the first day became a sparring match from the get go. Coco was set on onlydriving a short distance after leaving Frankfurt and my idea was to travel no less thanthree hours. Since we were arriving at 10AM we would be leaving the airport by 12 afterclearing customs and renting the car. In the end we choose to drive for a few hourssince we had a great hotel already booked on line. The month prior to departure Coco spent using Google maps to plot each segment of our trip. We have to purchase new printer cartridges as often as we changed ouritinerary. This was also an opportunity for Coco to research her ancestors on hermother’s side to possibly include a visit to her great grandmother’s birthplace. It tookseveral trips to Powell’s Book Store to finally select an appropriate Europe Road Atlas.As part of the road trip, we were planning to visit lifelong friends in Lugano, Salice Terme, Italy plus visiting Coco’s cousin from Boston who invited us to spend some timewith them in Provence and a house they had taken for the month of May. Additionally,we had a unique opportunity to visit our nephew Brian who would be exhibiting newdesigns from the architecture department at Columbia University in the InternationalFurniture Design Show in Milan. Other than those dates our trip was open for discussion.Early in our planning we also decided to leave the cell phones and computer at homeand travel as we always had in years past—“off the communications grid”. The day had finally arrived. We boarded a united flight to San Francisco where we wouldconnect to a direct flight to Frankfurt. After a few boring airport hours we found ourhome in two exit row seats adjacent to the WC and narrower than what I rememberedfrom my last international flight 5 years ago-maybe the seats hadn’t changed as muchas our bodies. The 747 was full, the tailwind was strong and we started our 10 hour journey. Since the airlines began penny pinching, the impact to international “cattleclass” couldn’t have been cut more. The meals were small tasteless portions of lasagnaor chicken. I was surprised to be told that my travel profile had been checked for Kosher.For a moment I thought this could produce a surprise but in the end it only added to ourdining disappointment. They even charged for drinks which used to be free oninternational flights. If traveling in economy again I would strongly consider purchasingfood prior to the flight. On the brighter side, the movies were free but the headphoneswere still lousy.Landing in Frankfurt, we wound our way to baggage and bathrooms. We also decided tostop by the ticket counter to reset our return seats further from the WC. Arriving at the
 
Hertz counter we were told that they were out of cars and we had to wait an hour for theappropriate car. They would have been happy to upgrade us to a Mercedes or BMW butcould not given that Italy was part of our tour and not approved for these models giventhe Italian taste for theft of these cars. In the end, we agreed to a 50 Euro reduction inour rental rate for the inconvenience.Leaving the Frankfurt Airport with little to no sleep and a concentrated focus on findingthe A5 Autobahn south was a test for both of us. Entering the autobahn, I immediatelyfelt like we were standing still with cars zipping past us at 170km. Within a few minutes Iwas able to muster 140km while Coco screamed we were driving too fast. Having noteaten much for the past twelve hours, we decided to stop at an autobahn service areafor a bathroom break and something to eat. To our mutual frustration, we foundourselves without the appropriate change for the WC and had to make change at theespresso bar before we could relieve ourselves. This was an important issue given ourincreasing age and our interdependence on knowing where and how we would react toour next nature call. We stocked up on change.Pointing our way through the cafeteria ordering process, we settled on sharing a beer,soup and a lunch plate. After completing this cumbersome task we felt satisfied that wehad arrived and even finished with an espresso. Reentering the autobahn with bathroomchange and a well earned experience on how to negotiate the next stop we pointedourselves toward Badenweiler where we had made a reservation via the e web a fewdays earlier. The A5 from Frankfurt follows the west side of the Black Forest and(http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Black_Forest#Points_of_interest) sprinkled with Castles andSpa towns for several hours until reaching the Swiss city of Basel.We had never been to this region before and everything was new. We knewthere were thermal baths in the town of Badenweiler but nothing comparedto what we were to find.
 
Leaving the A5, we rambled through the countrysidestopping only to buy for some wine and snacks for the evening. Approachingthe town of Badenweiler, we are amazed to see a collection of hotels andprivate homes beautifully maintained and depicting almost a fairy-tale likeatmosphere. The townissituated with a backdrop of rolling hills, vineyards, and native forest.Badenweiler has a rich history as a health resort dating back to the Romanperiod with the original roman baths still preserved for viewing. The currentday resort is called Cassiopeia Therme which has a variety of pools, saunasand massage services.
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