Slovenian Istria in Your Pocket

Explore the Countryside
Picturesque villages, terraced

vineyards and countless hiking
and cycling opportunities
Istrian Cuisine
Youre guaranteed to eat well at the
coast, especially if you like seafood
Including Koper,
Izola, Piran, Portoro,
Postojna and the Karst
2014/2015
Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Slovenian Istria
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, well-
written series of guidebooks.
The New York Times
inyourpocket.com
Issue N6 - FREE COPY
2014/2015 3 facebook/slovenia.inyourpocket
Contents
E S S E N T I A L
C I T Y G U I D E S
2014
Arrival & Transport 5
Planes, trains, buses and cars
Koper 6
The capital of the coast
Izola 12
A shing village with soul
Piran 18
Slovenias prettiest town
Portoro 24
A top resort destination
The Karst 28
Explore this amazing inland region
Postojna 32
More than just a cave
Maps 36
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www.adriaservice-yachting.com
Socerb Castle oers breathtaking views as far as the eye can see,
photo by Ubald Trnkoczy
In recent years, the Port of Koper has seen increasing arrivals from
cruise ships, photo by Ubald Trnkoczy
4 Slovenian Istria In Your Pocket slovenian-istria.inyourpocket.com 2014/2015 5 facebook/slovenia.inyourpocket
Arriving & Getting Around Foreword
Publisher IQBATORLtd.
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C I T Y G U I D E S
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CZECH
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ROMANIA
HUNGARY
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GREECE
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IRELAND
GETTING TO ISTRIA
The Slovene coast is well-connected to the rest of the
country by trains and buses (usually requiring a transfer in
the capital Ljubljana if youre planning to go further), but
getting to or from neighbouring Italy or Croatia on pub-
lic transport is surprisingly dicult, in spite of the fact that
you can literally see one or both of them at nearly all times.
Coming by car is usually the best option, as its not only
much faster, but also allows easily exploration of the beau-
tiful countryside, although parking in or near the old town
centres can be a complicated and/or expensive proposi-
tion, especially in Piran.
BY PLANE
While Portoro technically has its own international airport,
there are currently not any regularly scheduled ight operat-
ing, although if you have your private jet or are arriving on a
chartered ight it is obviously the most convenient option.
However, for the non-Jet Set, the nearest airports are Ljubljana
Joe Punik Airport (LJU) situated near the city of Kranj some
125km from Koper, Ronchi dei Legionari Airport (TRS) north
of Monfalcone a bit over 60km away, and Venice Marco Polo
Airport (VCE), the latter oering by far the most direct interna-
tional connections. During the summer season, there are also
cheap budget ights and many charters to Pula, Rijeka and
other towns along the norther Croatian coast.
BY TRAIN
If youre coming to coast by train, the station in Koper is the
end of the line, so if thats not your nal destination youll
have to take a local bus, taxi, bike or a long walk from there.
From Ljubljana there are ve trains per day (six at week-
ends), which take two to three hours and cost 9-11 for
2nd class. If youre planning a weekend you can take advan-
tage of special return fares. More info can be found on the
site of Slovenian Railways at www.slo-zeleznice.si. Kopers
railway station is situated about 1km due south of the old
town gates, and oers an ATM and luggage storage but not
much else. However, its conveniently located right next to
the bus station, which makes onward travel a breeze.
BY BUS
There are a dozen or more buses between Ljubljana and
Koper on weekdays and few less at the weekends, which
can take anywhere between 1.5 and 2.5 hours. Be aware
that the vast majority of these go to Koper in the morn-
ing hours, and return to the capital in the evening. The
fares are similar to those for trains, but most of the buses
also travel onwards to Izola and Portoro. In all towns at
the coast the main bus stations (or sometimes just a stop)
are located in or very near the centre, and local buses will
make lots of stops so make sure to check which will get
you nearest where you ultimately want to go. Tickets can
be purchased from the driver, or in advance at bus stations
in larger towns.
BY CAR
Coming to the Slovene coast by car not only allows you more
freedom during your stay, but is also considerably faster than
public transport. The drive from Ljubljana to Koper should
take just about an hour, while Bled is only 1.5 hours away
and Maribor on the other side of the country is just over two
hours. Unless you get lost or stuck in trac (the latter be-
ing more common), it shouldnt take much more than 30
minutes to get between any two points in the region, as
this is the average time from Koper to Piran at the far end
of Slovene territory. Some the countrys most popular tourist
sites are also very close, including the white horses of Lipica
(30km), kocjan Caves (35km) and Postojna Cave (58km),
while Trieste in Italy is only 22km. If youre coming with your
own car, dont forget to purchase a vinjeta sticker for your
windscreen at the border if you plan on using the motor-
ways - this is the system that replaced tolls some years ago.
BOAT CHARTERS
ADRIA SERVICE YACHTING
Theres no better way to experience the Adriatic sea than on
a private boat. However, if like us youre not fortunate enough
to have your own vessel, dont worry, Adria Service Yacht-
ing have a eet of nearly two dozen sail boats, power boats,
luxury yachts and catamarans on which you can experience
your dream holiday. Standard charters are by the week, espe-
cially during the peak summer season, but day and weekend
charters are also possible, as are excursion, business trips and
team-building activities. Adria Service Yachting is also a fully
licensed travel agency, which means they can arrange ac-
commodation and airport transfers, as well as organise your
participation in one of the many regattas that take place int
eh Adriatic each year, including the most famous of them
all, Triestes Barcolana.Q6310, Tomaieva 2, tel. +386 (0)5
640 1102/+386 (0)5 640 1103, info@adriaservice-yachting.
com, adriaservice-yachting.com.
TAXIS
TAXI TEFAN
tefan is the man to call for all your transport needs, in-
cluding day tours and longer transfers to and from the rest
of Slovenia, as well as Croatia and Italy. Fixed prices can be
found on the website.QObala 122, tel. +386 (0)51 303
100, prevozi-portoroz.com.
TAXI TEFAN
+386 51 303 100
e-mail: info@prevozi-portoroz-com
051 303 100
ALEJA - PERSONAL TRANSPORT - NON STOP 24 /7
Even amongst Slovenes the phrase Im going to the coast
more often than not refers to a trip south to Croatia, which
is understandable, as not only were they part of the same
country just over two decades ago, but the Croatian main-
land and its numerous islands cover some 5,835km of Med-
iterranean coast, which makes Slovenias 47km (or 46.6km
to be exact) somewhat comical in comparison. However,
to quote the philosopher Plato: Necessity is the mother
of invention, and since the current national borders were
established following the Second World War, Slovenia has
made the most of what it was left with, giving it what is in
our not so humble opinion centimetre for centimetre the
nest coastline in the world!
Lest you think were just wantonly throwing around hyper-
bole (which admittedly wouldnt be the rst time, as we are
a tourist guide after all), take a minute and tell us where else
along a less than 50km stretch of the Mediterranean one
can nd two still-functioning ancient salt pans, a protected
nature reserve, a major shipping port and cruise liner termi-
nal, several well-preserved Venetian old towns, kilometres
of waterfront cycling and walking paths, an international
airport, one of Europes top nightclubs, both large public
beaches and small secluded swimming spots, a breakaway
municipality that was the subject of a recent constitu-
tional court ruling, the highest cli on the entire Adriatic,
a modern seaside resort town, countless major events held
throughout the year and lots of other things were likely for-
getting at the moment. Go ahead, well wait!
In all serious though, the Slovene coast, like the country
itself, oers visitors an incredibly diverse selection of things
to see, do and experience, and weve tried our best to in-
clude many of them in the following pages, while much
more info can be found on our website. As always we wel-
come any and all feedback, be it on Facebook, Foursquare,
Twitter or even old-fashioned email.
Koper Koper
The somewhat kitsch slogan used by Slovenias neighbours to
describe their coastline is the Mediterranean as it used to be.
Slovenians are more clever than that. Thats why one local of
the gorgeous seaside town of Koper told Koper In Your Pocket
that the Slovenian coast is in fact, simply, the Mediterranean as
it is.Brilliant, as is Koper, a town of not all that many people just
an hour from Ljubljana, yet in attitude and outlook it might just
as well be one million miles away. If Ljubljana reeks of Austrian
inuence, Koper is Slovenias Italian connection. Its Slovenia,
Jim, but not as we know it.
Wandering around Kopers Old Town, all narrow streets and
Venetian-style houses, you could be forgiven that you had
indeed crossed the border into Italy. You are as liable to hear
Italian spoken as Slovenian, there are Italian signs everywhere,
and its all a reminder that the border between one country and
another has never really mattered all that much in these parts.
Always something of a blur, it disappeared forever three years
ago when Slovenia joined the Schengen block.
RESTAURANTS
CITYBURGER
Dont be fooled by the name, Cityburger is decidedly not a
simple fast food joint. Not only does the interior have the ap-
pearance of an country bistro, but the menu also oers an
enormous selection - with dozens of pizzas, steak, seafood,
pasta and salads all vying for your attention. Of course they
also prepare some tasty burgers, including the namesake
Cityburger, which boasts a jaw-breaking two beef patties
and three pieces of bread (although for the record we usu-
ally opt for either the bacon or chicken burger). Located in
Kopers main commercial district just east of the old town
centre, there is plenty of free parking available.QG-2, An-
karanska 7, tel. +386 (0)5 630 9920/+386 (0)41 93 49 32,
info@cityburger.si, www.cityburger.si. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
PTALVBS
ISTRSKA KLET SLAVEK
Fantastic! Plates of sea food nibbles such as deep fried squid
in batter served as appetisers or simple snacks for the many
locals who come here for lunch or an early dinner. There is also
for once a good non-sh menu: check the daily specials on the
blackboard, like the brilliant minestrone soup. Super location
too, and plenty of outside seating.QB-5, upanieva 39, tel.
+386 (0)5 627 67 29. Open 07:00 - 22:00. Closed Sat. (3-
9.5). JULGBK
PEKING
One of four popular Chinese restaurants run by the Ji family
from Shanghai, Kopers Peking is located just south of the H5
motorway near the Mercator Centre. Known for its extensive
menu, huge portions and friendly service, this is our favourite
place for authentic Chinese food on the coast. Try to grab a
table in the garden, where you can dine amongst bamboo
trees and intimate lighting under the smiling gaze of a large
Buddha statue.QF/G-5, Cesta Mareganskega Upora 13, tel.
+386 (0)5 625 08 08, www.kitajska-restavracija.si. Open
12:00 - 23:00. PTAL
PIZZERIA 33
Were not sure if there are 33 pizzas on oer, however there
are enough to cause headaches when choosing. Pizza 33 also
oers a range of dishes from grilled meats and local seafood to
pastas and salads. Whilst the drinks list isnt quite as expansive
as the food menu it is nice to have options other than Lako
and Union. The pizzeria is located on the coast road between
Koper and Izola with views of the sea. Its a bit hard to reach
without a car though they do deliver.QIstrska 67, tel. +386
(0)5 90 12 580/+386 (0)31 33 33 96, www.pizza33.si. Open
10:00 - 24:00.
SARAJEVO 84
Voted by In Your Pocket readers as the best Balkan restaurant
in Ljubljana for 2013, Koper is now the third city in the country
(with nearby Piran being the other) to have this unocial rep-
resentative of the Bosnian capital turning out delicious grilled
meat dishes, which are inevitably washed down with bottles
of famous Sarajevsko beer and followed by authentic Turkish
coee. Located at the eastern edge of Kopers old town, this
restaurant themed on Sarajevos shining moment in the inter-
national spotlight back when it hosted the Winter Olympics in
1984 is a ne place to ll up before or after exploring the citys
sights.QF-1, Gramijev Trg 8, tel. +386 (0)8 383 59 44, www.
sarajevo84.si.
SKIPPER
The seamens and sailors choice, the highlight of this
place in the heart of the harbour is the raised terrace over-
looking the marina and shipyards. Expect to dine very well
on huge pieces of fresh sh caught that day. Wash it down
with a couple of the great local wines on the menu.QE-
1, Kopaliko nabreje 3, tel. +386 (0)5 626 18 10, emil.
horvat@siol.net, www.skipper-koper.com. Open 11:00
- 22:00 Holidays 11:00-22:00. JAGBK
VODIEK
This restaurant at the family-run BIO hotel has a long tradi-
tion of preparing large portions of local cuisine for both
guests and non-guests alike. House specialities include
fresh sh prepared on a wood-red grill and succulent
slow roasted meat dishes, as well as various pasta and
vegetarian options. Three separate dining areas can t
between 12 and 150 people, while theres also a shady
outdoor terrace open during the warmer months.QVan-
ganelska 2, tel. +386 (0)5 625 88 84, info@hotel-bio.si,
www.hotel-bio.si.
TIC KOPER, Titov trg 3, Koper
T: +386 5 6646 403
E: tic@koper.si
www.koper-card.si
TOURIST INFORMATION
Kopers well-stocked tourist information centre is lo-
cated in the centre of town on Tito Square. The friendly
multi-lingual sta will gladly make recommendations
for what to see and do both in Koper and the surround-
ing countryside, and free brochures and maps can be
found for pretty much everything there is to see and
do in the region.QB-4, Titov Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)5 664
64 03, tic@koper.si, www.koper.si. Open daily 09:00-
20:00 (June-Sept), and 09:00-17:00 (Oct-May).
Kopers ne Venetian old town is not to be missed, photo by Jaka Jeraa
Koper Koper
SIGHTSEEING
Koper, the Old Town at least, is one big sight. The joy of coming
here is to wander its streets, often getting lost, mixing with lo-
cals, visitors and hoardes of day trippers. Old Towns main street
-if you can call it that - is Cevljarska, which is no more than two
or three metres wide in places, and is packed from dawn to
dusk when it, like most of Old Koper, disappears inside. Cevljar-
ska leads up from Muda Gate to the towns main square, Titov
Trg, which is dominated by the bell tower of the St Marys of the
Assumption Cathedral, visible from all over Koper.
BELL TOWER
Rising up 54m from the centre of the old town, the citys
famed Bell Tower, will likely be the rst sight visitors see no
matter if theyre arriving by road, rail or sea. Originally part of
a Roman fortication, the tower was transformed into its pres-
ent appearance between the 15th and 17th centuries, and has
been used for liturgical purposes ever since. Panoramic views
of the entire region (weather permitting of course) can be had
by ascending 204 steps to reach the viewing platform at 43m.
QB-4, Titov Trg. Summer hours 09:00-14:00, 16:00-21:00.
2 per person.
CATHEDRAL OF MARYS ASSUMPTION
Kopers cathedral originally dates back to the 12th century
when the city acquired its own diocese, and a Roman basilica
actually stood on the same location as far back as ancient
times. The current faade combines architectural styles, with
a Gothic lower half and a noticeably Renaissance upper half.
Inside the Cathedral there are numerous sights of note includ-
ing the large altarpiece Madonna with Child on the Throne
of Saints by Vittore Carpaccio from 1516, the 15th century
stone sarcophagus of St Nazarius (Kopers patron saint), and
an organ decorated with two additional painting by Carpac-
cio, The Presentation in the Temple and The Slaughter of the
Innocents. The entire interior was redecorated by the famous
Italian architect Giorgio Massari in the 18th century.QB-4,
Titov Trg. No admission fee.
PRAETORIAN PALACE
Dominating the southern side of Tito Square is the imposing
yet beautifully ornate Praetorian Palace, which has served
as the municipal seat for some eight centuries. Its Venetian
Gothic design dates from the middle of the 15th century, with
the outer staircase and balustrade added fty years later, and
the overall appearance of the faade taking shape in 1664
after signicant renovations. After serving various purposes
following the downfall of the Venetian Republic at the hands
of Napoleon in 1797, the building underwent a decade long
restoration in the 1990s and now once again serves as the
municipal seat and mayors oce, as well as the Tourist Infor-
mation Centre.QB-4, Titov Trg 3. Free guided tours can be
arranged in advance through TIC.
TAVERNA (ST MARKS SALT WAREHOUSE)
For much of the past millennium salt production served
an important role along Slovenias coastal region, with
documented exploitation of the salt pans dating from
Stretching to the south and east of Koper, the rolling hills and
valleys of the Istrian countryside are dotted with ancient vil-
lages, Roman ruins, cli-top churches and countless hiking
and cycling trails just waiting to be explored. Youll likely need
your own car, or at least a driver, to reach most of what the re-
gion has to oer in a timely fashion, but the wealth and prox-
imity of sights makes renting an easily justiable expense.
Weve listed a few of our favourites below, but for a complete
run down of all there is to see or do - as well as maps and
other info - visit either the Koper or Ankaran tourist oces.
BERTOKI
Located just o the Koper-Trieste road near the Riana
River, Bertoki is a small settlement formerly known as Rian-
Lazaret or simply Lazaret. The village boasts a gorgeous
little parish church dedicated to Marys Assumption, which
displays the 400 year-old Crucied Christ painted by an
unknown local artist. Next to the church is a Venetian-style
bell tower added in the 18th century. The area was once
famous as for the sprawling summer manors that belonged
to the noble families of Koper, and a tree-lined promenade
leading to the church still remains from this time.Today
Bertoki is home to the only surviving colonial estate in the
Primorska region, which is a protected cultural heritage site.
The nearby kocjanski Zatok nature reserve (established in
1998) is easily combined with a visit to the village.
RNI KAL
The village of rni Kal lies just o the main motorway a
dozen or so kilometres east of Koper, at the natural border
of the Karst region. For most visitors, the most immediately
noticeable feature of the area, is the enormous rni Kal Via-
duct. Completed in 2004, at 1065m long and 95m high, its
currently the longest bridging structure in the country.
Conspicuously perched on the rocky clis above the vil-
lage are the remnants of an 11th century fortress, which
was part of the defence system of the Venetian Republic,
while on another nearby hill theres the odd-looking bell
tower of the Baroque Church of St Valentine. Dating from
1680, the tower now has a noticeable lean to it, and is se-
cured in place by steel wires.
The village itself, has typical Istrian-Karst architecture with
numerous decorative stone details. One house in particular,
the so-called Benkova Hia, is ocially considered to be the
oldest farmhouse in Slovene and the earliest example of Slo-
vene folk architecture, dating from 1489. The rocky slopes
above the village oer over 100 climbing routes of various
levels of diculty, and provide spectacular views of the val-
leys and hills below leading towards Koper and the sea, and
there are even more hiking and cycling opportunities in the
surrounding countryside.
HRASTOVLJE
The Istrian village of Hrastovlje is most famous for its Church
of the Holy Trinity, which dates back to the 13th century. The
entire interior of the the church is covered in frescoes by the
15th century Slovene artist Janez of Castua, including the
eerily enchanting Dance of Death or Danse Macabre [editors
note: this is alsothetitleof agreat albumbyanindiedancepunk
bandfromOmahacalledThe Faint].
Most of the equally impressive other works take their
themes from the various parts of the Old Testament, and
some include inscriptions in Glagolitic - the oldest known
Slavic alphabet, developed by Saints Cyril and Methodius
in the 9th century. The church is surrounded by 16th cen-
tury walls with two defence towers, originally built to fend
o the Ottomans.
The quaintly picturesque Hrastovlje village, with its tradi-
tional Istrian architecture, is also worth a stroll, and as with
many of the village in the area its a popular starting point
for hiking, cycling and motorcycle trips into the surrounding
countryside. For art lovers two galleries in the centre of the
village are also worth perusing, the Joe Pohlen Gallery and
the Victor Snoj Gallery.
AROUND KOPER
Ankaranska 7, Koper Every day from 8 to 24 h
Kopers bell tower is the citys trademark sight, photo by YMB
Discover the Church of the Holy Trinity and its famous frescoes in Hrastovlje, photo by Ubald Trnkoczy
Koper Koper
as early as 1182. Taking up the lions share of Carpaccio
Square on the western edge of the old town is the Tav-
erna building, which formerly served as a salt warehouse
before becoming at various times an inn, a sh market and
of course a tavern. Today the structure is used as a multi-
purpose space for various events, including many live
concerts and other performances.QA-4, Carpacciov Trg.
GALERIJA MEDUZA
An excellent collection of contemporary art by various
local artists, all of which is for sale. Friendly sta will
help with onward shipping should you require.QB-5,
evljarska 34, tel. +386 (0)5 627 48 37. Open 09:00 -
16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
KOPER REGIONAL MUSEUM
Housed inside a wonderful Venetian Palace, the Koper
Regional Museum presents a rather condensed history
of Koper, Izola and Piran. While theres precious little to
actually see, there are some rather nice paintings to ad-
mire, and the building is wonderful. Walking around is
not the worst way in the world to kill half an hour.QA-4,
Kidrieva 19, tel. +386 (0)5 663 35 70, pmk-kp@guest.
arnes.si. Sep-Jun Mon-Fri10:00-18:00, Sat and Sun
09:00-13:00; Jul-Aug: 09:00-13:00, Tue-Sun 18:00-
21:00, Mon closed.
MUZEJSKA GALERIJA
Part of the Koper Regional Museum (which is next door),
the gallery museum presents changing exhibitions of vari-
ous interest throughout the year. When we last visited the
current exhibition was a superb presentation of the role
of profane art and music in Venetian society. Check the
gallerys website for details of current exhibitions.QA-4,
Kidrieva 21, tel. +386 (0)5 663 35 70. Open 10:00 -
18:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
KOPER CITY BEACH (MESTNO KOPALIE KOPER)
Kopers small pebble beach lacks sand, but is a lovely place
to soak up the sun or to swim in the warm (depending on
the time of year of course) water. You will nd it on Kopa-
lisko Nabreje, next to the marina. There are large areas
of lawns for sunbathing, and an enclosed swimming area.
Lifeguards are on hand to make sure you do not swim o
out into the boating lanes. There are changing rooms,
showers, childrens playgrounds, a restaurant and a caf.
QE-1, Kopaliko Nabreje 1, tel. +386 (0)5 627 81 78.
ACCOMMODATION
BIO
In the newer part of town, some way from the Old Town (but
accessible by bus) the Bio is a good choice for those on a bud-
get. Rooms are simple but rather nice, and considering the
almost negative cost you get plenty of value for your money.
Theres an onsite restaurant complete with a terrace serving
local specialities.QVanganelska 2, tel. +386 (0)5 625 88 84,
fax +386 (0)5625 88 85, info@hotel-bio.si, www.hotel-bio.
si. 29 rooms (singles 38-53, doubles 57-79, triples 76).
PTHAR6LGBKW hhh
HOSTEL HISTRIA
A much welcomed (and much needed) addition to the
budget accommodation at the Slovene coast, the reno-
vated historical building has had some of its centuries-
old charm preserved in the form of stone walls, wooden
shutters and heavy iron xtures, and is conveniently lo-
cated just around the corner from Preeren Square and
the main southern entrance to the old town, within easy
walking distance from the train and bus stations and just
steps away from several popular pubs, cafs and restau-
rants.QB-5, Pri Velikih Vratih 17, tel. +386 (0)8 38 240
38, info@hostel-histria.si, www.hostel-histria.si. Two
8-bed and three 6-bed dorms, (13-15/person Oct-
April, 15-17 May-Sept). JW
GARNI HOTEL PRISTAN
Though it looks less than promising from the outside,
this is just about the best hotel in town, and as such is the
default choice of the business classes. Its spick, span, and
the well sized rooms are faultlessly attired. Bathrooms are
great, there are plenty of freebie toiletries and the sta are
both friendly and helpful in a wide variety of languages.
Note that not all rooms have balconies, and as there is
no extra cost for such luxuries ask for one when reserv-
ing or checking in.QG-1, Ferrarska 30, tel. +386 (0)5
614 40 00, hotel@luka-kp.si, pristan-koper.si. 10 rooms
and 6 suites (singles 77, doubles 60, triples 50).
PJHAULGBKDCW hhhh
KOPER
The only full-sized hotel located within Kopers old town,
what its name lacks in originality it makes up for in loca-
tion - with its faade dominating the waterfront prom-
enade opposite the small harbour and the statue-packed
Hlavatyev Park. Part of Terme ate chain of hotels, resorts
and spas, it comes with the standard 3-star amenities and
great views from most of the rooms. There are also two
onsite conference halls for business or other events.QA-
4/5, Pristanika 3, tel. +386 (0)5 610 05 00, fax +386 (0)5
610 05 94, koper@terme-catez.si, www.terme-catez.si.
55 rooms, 10 suites (singles 74-92, doubles 114-150).
PTHRULGBK hhh
PADNA APARTMENTS
Set at the edge of the idyllic village of Padna in the
heart of Slovenias Istrian region, these two large, well-
furnished apartments are a perfect combination of tra-
ditional style and modern amenities. Both apartments
have multiple bedrooms, bathrooms, a living room and
kitchen on two floors, as well as access to a balcony
and terrace with sweeping views of the surrounding
countryside. Padna is easily accessible from anywhere
on the coast, with the most direct route being directly
south of Koper on the road to Pula. Booking in advance
is highly recommended during peak seasons.QPadna
65b, tel. +386 (0)40 432 077, info@apartmajipadna.
si, www.apartmajipadna.si. Apartment A4 60-90,
Apartment A5 90-120. Bikes can be rented for only
3/day. PTAL
VILLA ANDOR
Housed in a beautifully preserved centuries-old Vene-
tian-style villa, Andor enjoys protected historic status
as it had previously served as both a private and of-
ficial state residence before being opened as a hotel in
the mid-90s. Its 14 double rooms all come with antique
furnishings as well as modern amenities, and most
have at least partial sea views. Try to request room four
(the Honeymoon suite), which has French doors open-
ing onto a large private balcony.QVinogradnika Pot
9, tel. +386 (0)56 15 50 00/+386 (0)41 65 51 00, fax
+386 (0)56 15 50 17, villa@andor.si, www.andor.
si. 14 rooms (singles 50-55, doubles 80-90).
POA6ILBKX
VODIEK
About half-way between the Old Town and the bus
and train stations, the Vodisek is a good budget choice.
Expect distinctly average rooms but at a more than
reasonable price, and friendly staff eager to help you
find your way around their town. The terrace caf gets
busy with locals and appears to be a centre of gossip.
All adds to the fun of staying here. Note the recep-
tion is around the back, through the shopping mall.
QF-2, Kolodvorska 2, tel. +386 (0)5 639 24 68/+386
(0)41 634 877, fax +386 (0)5 639 36 68, info@hotel-
vodisek.com, www.hotel-vodisek.com. 33 rooms
(singles 59, doubles 88, triples 107)44,2544,35.
THR6ULBK hhh
FROM 12.99
Ulica pri velikih vratih 17
6000 KOPER
tel.: +386 838 24 38
info@hostel-histria.si
www.hostel-histria.si
Izola Izola
the main dining room, there is a large terrace that can be
transformed into an enclosed winter garden during colder
months, and a small private salon with a replace that can
be reserved for special occasions. After dinner you can
head to the equally grand wine cellar downstairs.QKorte
44b, tel. +386 (0)5 620 96 57, info@hisa-torkla.si, www.
hisa-torkla.si. Open 12:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
MARINA
In spite of the stereotypes often associated with hotel
restaurants, Marina is widely regarded as one of the best
in town, and considering the top quality its a surprisingly
good-value option for those looking for a bit more upscale
dining whilst in Izola. Under the watchful eye of master
chef Ivica Evai-Ivek, the kitchen strictly adheres to the
motto of From the sea to the plate, which to be fair is only
a journey of a few metres given that the hotel is set right
on the harbour.QA-1, Veliki Trg 11, tel. +386 (0)5 660 41
00, ivek@hotelmarina.si, www.hotelmarina.si. Open
12:00-23:00 in spring/summer, 12:00-22:00 in autumn/
winter. PJALBW
MANJADA
Set high above the road overlooking the San Simon Resort
and Adriatic sea in the distance, Manjada is an excellent
choice for lunch or dinner, combining the modern dining
experience with a homey traditional-style. House special-
ties included meat and seafood dishes from a charcoal grill,
fresh sh from the Adriatic, and every kind of pizza imag-
inable, with the daily lunch specials always a good choice.
For a real treat, come for dinner and try one of the excellent
(and very reasonably priced) ve-course tastings menus,
with each course accompanied by a perfectly matched Slo-
vene wine.QMorova 25d, tel. +386 (0)5 64 16 321, www.
gostilna-manjada.si. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 -
23:00. Closed Mon.
PERGOLA
Open only during the peak tourist season, you can be
assured of fresh ingredients and a crowded house at this
seafood restaurant found at Hotel Deln near the en-
trance to the marina. Free parking for guests in another
added benet, and another likely reason why the place
is popular amongst locals and others who arent staying
at the hotel or even visiting its pools.QTomaieva 10,
+386 (0)5 6607 421, www.hotel-delfn.si. Open 10:00-
21:00 from April till October. PTAL
RIBI
Located beside Izolas picturesque shing port in the cen-
tre of town, Gostilna Ribi has been pleasing customers
for more than 140 years. After enjoying a relaxed weekend
lunch we can see why its still around, the atmosphere is
authentically rustic, the service friendly, and they even
serve a complimentary appetiser. Ribi (sherman in
Slovene) are specialists at preparing (surprise surprise) the
freshest seafood and their classic Adriatic and Mediterra-
nean dishes are delicious as are the local wines on oer.
The non-seafood items on the menu look good as well,
though we turn into pescatarians whenever were at the
coast.QA-1, Veliki Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)5 641 83 13, www.
ribic.biz. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Still an easygoing shing village at heart, Izola doesnt get
nearly as much love as some of Slovenias other coastal towns
and is often overlooked by tourists racing by on their way to
Piran for a day trip. However, as far as were concerned its a
beautiful little Venetian port town with enough amenities to
keep you comfortable, windy old streets to wander and sights
to see to make it a worthwhile destination in its own right.
RESTAURANTS
GUT
One of several places within a block of each other on
Drevored 1. Maja (or The 1st of May Avenue), Gut always
seems to have the fewest empty seats on its long terrace,
and for good reason. Its thick menu has a bit of everything,
but for our money the brick oven pizzas are probably the
best in town. For those staying farther aeld they also deliv-
er to most nearby areas.QE-2, Drevored 1 Maja 5, tel. +386
(0)41 67 59 53/+386 (0)41 65 03 33, gustizola@volja.net.
Open 08:00 - 24:00. (4.5-19). JAVBS
GOSTIE OBALA
Located in the Jadranka Avtokamp along the waterfront
just east of town, this no frills restaurant oers a relaxed and
authentic dining experience without the crowds of the city
centre, with free parking and panoramic views of the old
town oering further enticement. Grilled meat and vege-
table dishes are well-represented on the menu, as of course
are sh and other seafood specialities, while the award-
winning pizza is what draws many a local family here. Fresh
locals ingredients from surrounding countryside are used,
and prices are incredibly reasonable. Its open year-round
for lunch, and dinner as well during the high season.QPolje
8 (Avtokamp Jadranka), tel. +386 (0)41 528 787, camp.
jadranka@gmail.com, avtokamp-jadranka.si.
GOSTILNA KORTE
Locals and tourists alike make regular pilgrimages up into
the hills between Izola and Portoro to dine at this tradi-
tional inn. The menu has a mix of Slovene, Mediterranean
and regional Istrian dishes, and a great selection of local
wines - a bottle of which should be mandatory with any
meal. Its also not a bad place to come for a drink if you
need an excuse to get out and enjoy the fresh air, but are
not in the mood to eat.QKorte 44, tel. +386 (0)5 642 02
00/+386 (0)41 60 78 63, gostilnakorte@siol.net, www.
gostilnakorte.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. Closed Tue.
HIA TORKLA
Situated in a beautifully restored traditional 19th-century
Istrian house in the charming hilltop town of Korte, the
cuisine at Hia Torkla is just as exceptional as the setting.
Prepared using fresh seasonal ingredients from local farm-
ers, hunters and shermen, many of the dishes are based
on age-old Slovene recipes with a little bit of modern in-
novation from head chef Sebastijan Kovai. In addition to
Gostlna in Pizzeria Manjada
Morova 25d, 6310 Izola
Tel: 05/64 16 321
www.gostlna-manjada.si
TOURIST INFORMATION
A bit more dicult to nd after moving from the water-
front promenade to a parallel pedestrian street just around
the corner, the newly renovated premises now stock a
large selection of gifts and souvenirs (including a whole
wall full of local wines) in addition to the usual brochures
and guides. To get there take the small alleyway next to
the municipal building at Sonno Nabreje 8, and turn left
when you reach the end.QA-2, Ljubljanska 17, tel. +386
(0)5 640 10 50, fax +386 (0)5 640 10 52, tic.izola@izola.
si, www.izola.eu. Open 09:00-16:00, Sat 10:00-14:00,
and closed Sun (Sep-May); 09:00-19:00, Sun 09:00-
17:00 (June); everyday 09:00-20:00 (July-Aug).
The town of Izola was formerly an island, hence the name (isola is is Italian for island), photo courtesy of Tourism Izola
KILOMETRE ZERO
In order to promote the rich culinary heritage of the
Istria region, the Tourist Association of Izola in coopera-
tion with the towns Chamber of Craft and Small Busi-
ness has developed the Kilometre Zero initiative, which
both encourages and ensures the use of local products,
and also organises various ongoing events under one
unique brand. Currently, 18 restaurants within the mu-
nicipality of Izola have joined the project, meaning that
at least 80% of their ingredients are purchased from lo-
cal suppliers. This no only guarantees guests the chance
to try authentic recipes and local specialities, but also
means that seasonal dishes, both from the sea and the
land, are in constant supply. Events connected with
the projects include a special culinary evening known
as Forgotten Flavours of Istria, which takes places at a
dierent restaurant on the rst Tuesday of each month
(except January), a Saturday farmers market from May
to September, and The Sea on the Table, where par-
ticipating restaurants serve up the freshest lunches pos-
sible from the morning catch of local shermen. See the
Tourist Associations ocial website for more info.
Izola Izola
MANZIOLI PALACE
Originally built in 1470 under the direction of one of Izolas
rst mayors, Tomasso Manzioli, the recently renovated pal-
ace is one of the oldest buildings in the city and home to
both the oces of the local Italian self-government and
an incredibly charming wine bar. Frequently held art ex-
hibitions are a good excuse to see the beautifully restored
interior.QA-1, Manzioli Square 5, tel. +386 (0)5 616 21
31, agnese.babic@siol.net.
PARENZANA MUSEUM
In 1902 the Parenzana railway line was built connecting Tri-
este with Pore (or Parenzo in Italian, hence the name) 123
kilometres to the south in present-day Croatia. Although it
was only in operation until 1935 it garnered quite a repu-
tation for the beautiful scenery along the route, much of
which serves as a footpath and cycling road today. Dedi-
cated to preserving the history of the short-lived line, this
tiny museum opened its doors in 2000. It also houses an
impressive model train collection that is probably a must
see attraction for anyone interested in such things. Its a
good idea to ask for directions and conrm its working
hours at the tourist oce.QI-7, Alme Vivoda 3, tic.izola@
izola.si. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission:
2.10/1.50 for adults/children.
ST MAURUS CHURCH
Sitting atop Izolas modest high point is the parish church
of the towns patron saint, who is also responsible for
watching over the Azores, shoemakers, coppersmiths and
the disabled. The present church was originally built by the
Venetians in 1547, with the bell tower, which bears some
resemblance to its larger predecessor in St Marks Square
in Venice, coming some forty years later. The church last
saw major renovations at the end of the 19th century and
still holds regular services.QD-1, Trg Svetega Mavra.
THE UGO FAMILY PLAQUE
Well above ground level on a tiny side street not far
from Caf Alle Porte, you can find the family plate of
the once powerful Ugo family, who originally installed
it back in 1450. After seeing several large photographs
and reading a bit about its history at the tourist office,
we found it slightly underwhelming in real life, espe-
cially given the fact that it clings to the wall of a newly
renovated building, but well admit that when we
stumbled upon it quite by mistake one morning it felt
like winning some kind of sightseeing scavenger hunt.
QA-2, Gasilska Ulica.
SHOPPING
VINA BOI
The Boi family has been tending their vineyards in the
hills surrounding Izola for well over a century, 1902 to be
exact, with the current generation combining the age-old
knowledge acquired from their ancestors with modern pro-
duction, bottling and storage methods in order to produce
some of the highest quality wine in the area. Primarily grow-
ing the local Istrian grape varieties Malvasia and Refosco on
some 12 hectares of lands, the family launched a new label
in 2005, which has already been awarded multiple gold
medals at several prestigious wine festivals. Their still very
reasonably priced bottled can be purchased at their shop in
VILA RAINERI
Located next to the Hotel Deln complex just outside the
towns modern marina, Vila Raineri makes for a good family-
friendly destination after a day spent cruising out on the
Adriatic, or just splashing around at the hotels pools or
private beach. Some two dozen pizzas come in four dif-
ferent sizes, so everyone should be able to nd the perfect
size and variety.QTomaieva 10, tel. +386 (0)5 6607 426,
www.hotel-delfn.si. Open 11:00 - 23:00. TAL
SIGHTSEEING
BESENGHI DEGLI UGHI PALACE
Considered by many to be the nest building in Izola, it
has sadly seen better days and from the looks of things
now serves as a nightly hang out for the beer-swilling local
youth. Although if you can imagine it without the gratti
and low hanging power lines it gives you some idea of the
citys past glory. By day it currently serves as Izolas music
school, which means visitors can take a look around while
lessons are taking place.QGregorieva 76, tel. +386 (0)5
662 67 00/+386 (0)40 631 034.
CHURCH OF ST MARY OF HALIAETUM
The oldest church in Izola does its part to help make Man-
ziolijev Trg one of the most aesthetically pleasing places in
town. Other than the summer, its not often open to the
public, but if you settle in for a drink at the nearby wine
bar on any given Saturday afternoon youll likely be able to
catch a wedding ceremony or two.QA-1, Manziolijev Trg.
AMPELEA
Hiring a boat to cruise around the Adriatic Sea is hands
down one of the most enjoyable activities that can be
undertaken on Slovenias petite coast - a sentiment that
weve often heard repeated by many a Slovene as well.
Not only does this aord you and your fellow sailors the
luxury to go where you want when you want, but you
can also avoid the crowded beaches during the sum-
mertime and explore sights o the proverbial beaten
path. While the harbours of Slovenias coastal town are
full of boats for hire, one of the most unique experience
you can have is on the Ampelea, which oers a passen-
gers the same convenience of the rest, along with some
authentic charm and history.
The Ampelea is a type of sailboat called a tilac,
which was commonly used as a cargo vessel in the
eastern Adriatic during the second half of the 19th
century. The boat itself dates back to 1930, and un-
derwent more than a year of renovations after be-
ing purchased from a small Croatian fishing village
by the current owners in 2004. It can comfortably
accommodate up to eight people on longer jour-
neys, and shorter half-day, full-day and romantic
evening cruises are also available. Further details,
prices and more info about the boats history can
be found on the website.Qtel. +386 (0)40 794 216,
ampelea@gmail.com, www.ampelea.com.
A beautiful day on the
Slovenian coast
A beautiful day on the
Slovenian coast 33.33 eur/person (maximum 12 people)
gsm:
040 794 216 (Tomi)
e-mail:
ampelea@gmail.com
KINO OTOK
04.06 WEDNESDAY - 08.06 SUNDAY
Kino Otok is not only the second largest lm festival
in Slovenia and one of the most high-prole cultural
events on the Slovenian coast, but its also one of our
personal favourites, with screenings taking place out-
doors under the stars on Mazioli Trg in the old town
of Izola. In addition to its unique venue, the festival
also prides itself on promoting genuine interaction
between lmmakers and audiences, making the event
an unforgettable experience for everyone involved. The
festivals programme, which is due to be announced
on 22 May, is sure to be as international as in previous
years, with the selection of lms accompanied by a
full schedule of Q&A sessions, industry meetings, lm
education panels, workshops for youth and children, art
exhibitions and much more. This summer Kino Otok will
also be celebrating its 10th anniversary, guaranteeing
the event an even more festive atmosphere than ever
before.QManziolijev Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)1 43 18 008,
info@isolacinema.org, www.isolacinema.org.
Izola Izola
the city centre (located one street south of the main round-
about) or on a visit to their wine cellar in Jagode just west
of town.QPostojnska 7, tel. +386 (0)41 784 719, kristjan@
vina-bozic.com, www.vina-bozic.com.
NIGHTLIFE
AMBASADA GAVIOLI
Designed by Italian architect Gianni Gavioli, whos some-
thing of a legend in the clubbing world, this massive 1600
square metre complex can comfortably t over 2500 peo-
ple and is one of the regions top destinations for serious
club goers. The building itself is a hodgepodge of themes,
materials and styles but maintains something of a warm
Mediterranean vibe throughout. Events are usually only
held once or twice a month at most, but could be worth
planning your trip around if youre a big fan of electronic
music.QF-3, Industrijska 10, www.ambasadagavioli.
net. PALE
KANTINA
The wine bar in the cellar of Hotel Deln, attracts a boister-
ous mix of visitors during the peak months of the summer
season, its cool air and authentic Istrian stone walls provid-
ing a much needed respite from the scorching sun. Of course
theres also a wide selection of both Slovene and international
wine to choose from, and various meats, cheeses and other
light snacks to ensure that it all doesnt go to your head too
quickly.QTomaieva 10, tel. +386 (0)5 6607 426, www.
hotel-delfn.si. Open only for private groups.
MOBY DICK BAR
In a town thats essentially still an old shing village at heart,
its tting that the most popular night spot is named after Mel-
villes famous whale, however theres no guarantee that itll be
packed on any given night - especially out of season. In addi-
tion to the nautical-themed paraphernalia plastered over every
square centimetre of wall and ceiling, you can nd an electronic
dart board awkwardly positioned near the entrance and a bil-
liard table in the back.QD-3, Dantejeva 4, tel. +386 (0)51 64
65 65, info@mobydickisola.com, www.mobydickisola.com.
Open 07:00 - 24:00, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PJALB
WINE BAR MANZIOLI
Operated by the Zaro family, who have called Izola home
for around 700 years, the bar occupies the ground oor
of a former palace on the old towns most picturesque
square. Its one of our favourite spots on the entire coast
for a drink, and the best place in Izola to sample quality
local wines. If youre there on a Saturday afternoon youre
also likely to catch at least one wedding ceremony at the
church opposite.QA-1, Manziolijev Trg 5, tel. +386 (0)5
616 21 37, bruno.zaro@t-2.net. Open , Mon, Tue, Wed,
Thu, Sun 8:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 8:00 - 01:00. JAB
ACCOMMODATION
DELFIN
Located right next to the marina, Dein has been welcom-
ing guests for more than 30 years. With a heated outdoor
sea water pool, a smaller indoor pool and its own beach, its
Tomaieva 10, 6310 Izola
124 x 90 mm one of the best options around for those wanting to spend
a signicant amount of their time in the water. Request a
sea-facing room for some incredible sunsets over the Adri-
atic and lovely views of Izolas old town, which is only 500m
away along a well-kept walking path.QC-3, Tomaieva
10, tel. +386 (0)5 6607 400, rezervacije@hotel-delfn.si,
www.hotel-delfn.si. 219 rooms (singles 45-64, doubles
76-114). PTALBKC hhh
STARA OLA KORTE
This beautifully renovated old schoolhouse is a great
option for those who would prefer the charms of a
peaceful countryside village to the more tourist-centric
coastal towns, although it denitely helps to have your
own transport as Korte is actually closer to the Croatian
frontier than Izola or Portoro. Brightly coloured private
rooms and dormitories are reasonably priced especially
for larger groups and longer stays, and the surround-
ing hills, villages and vineyards are just begging to be
explored by bike, foot or horseback.QKorte 74, tel.
+386 (0)5 642 11 14/+386 (0)31 375 889, info@hostel-
starasola.si, www.hostel-starasola.si/eng. 17 rooms &
2 apartments (dorms 20-24, doubles 40-48, quads
68-84, apartments 80-100). A6LW
BELE SKALE TOURIST AGENCY
Can arrange rooms and apartments around Izola, al-
though be aware that the former are often in short supply
and there is a strict 3 night minimum for the latter (even
if youre in town doing research for a guide book), so ad-
vanced booking is must. They also oer various excursions
as far aeld as Venice, and boat trips lasting from 3 hours
to an entire day.QE-2, Cankarjev Drevored 2, tel. +386
(0)5 640 35 55, www.beleskale.si.
Piran Piran
Piran is to the Adriatic what Bled is to the Alps and Slo-
venia as a whole is to Central Europe: tiny, friendly and
overwhelmingly picturesque. It's a town that is almost
impossible not to fall in love with on your rst visit, and if
you only have time for a day trip you'll likely want to make
plans to return. We also only half-jokingly added "fam-
ily residence in Piran - preferably renovated" to our list of
things we now look for in potential signicant others, but
that's only because we're supercial.
Despite it's modest size Piran is awash in superlatives. It
boasts what is undeniably the country's nest square, the
19th-century Tartinijev Trg named after the composer
Giuseppe Tartini, and what has to be one of the most
dramatically situated churches anywhere in Europe, St
George Cathedral and its spectacular bell tower perched
on the hill overlooking the town and the sea. In addition,
its numerous restaurants not only turn out some of the
best seafood we've ever eaten but also serve it in some
equally unforgettable settings.
Metre for metre this petite Venetian port can hold its own
against anyone, including the imperial capital just over
the horizon that was responsible for much of its fortune.
In fact Piran does have the same kind of open-air museum
feel to it as Venice, only on a much much smaller scale (and
without the 6 espressos, stagnant lagoon smell, periodic
ooding and constant worry of sinking into the sea).
However, once you venture from the heavily tracked wa-
terfront and central square down the narrow back streets,
the crumbling faades of ancient villas, freshly-laundered
clothes hanging from windows overhead and the odd
overgrown garden let you know that Piran should not be
mistaken for some manufactured cultural Disneyland - the
charms are real and, yes, people do actually live here.
RESTAURANTS
CASA NOSTROMO
A relative newcomer (only opened in 2013), Casa Nos-
tromo has quickly become a popular addition to Pirans
culinary scene. Located just opposite the old town
harbour, the nautical-themed restaurant specialises in
simple, fresh Istrian cuisine, prepared using only local
ingredients and accompanied by a well-chosen wine
list. The selection of cocktails and spirits is also said to be
quite ample - it is ocially referred to as a restaurant and
lounge bar after all.QTomieva 24, tel. +386 (0)30 200
000, www.piranisin.com.
DELFIN
Boasting a bit more authentic charm compared to some
of the competition around the corner, Deln lays claim
to being the oldest sh restaurant in town and has the
unique distinction of being located in a 500 year-old
former municipal building. The food is quite good - es-
pecially when accompanied by some cheap house wine
- and the service friendly and unhurried, although our
waiter didnt seem overly amused when we tried to or-
der dolphin (You dont have dolphin? But isnt deln Slo-
vene for dolphin?).QA-1, Kosovelova 4, tel. +386 (0)5
673 24 48, delfn.piran@gmail.com, www.delfnpiran.
si. Open 10:00 - 23:00. (6-21). PJAB
FONTANA
Tucked away behind a large stone cistern on the 1st
of May Square, Fontana is the place to come if youve
grown weary of seafood. Of course this being Piran
fish is not absent from the menu entirely, but the fo-
cus here is on Balkan cuisine which generally means
plates piled high with a variety of meat that has been
spiced and grilled to perfection. Combination platters
for two are a great value and will let you have a taste
of everything.QB-1, Gallusova 2, tel. +386 (0)5 673
12 00. Open 15:00 - 24:00, Tue Closed during winter.
(5-16). PJAB
GALEB
In the north of town just around the corner from the
pathway leading up to St George Cathedral, this small
family-run affair is another great option for superb
home-made seafood dishes. Savo Risti handles things
in the kitchen, while his wife Mija stays out front mak-
ing guests feel at home as they crowd around a half
dozen cosy tables. Highly recommended for a more
intimate dining experience.QA/B-1, Pusterla 5, tel.
+386 (0)5 673 32 25. Open 11:00 - 16:00; 18:00-23:00.
(5-19). JAG
GOSTILNA PRI MARI
This cosy, rustic restaurant is just your typical story of a girl from
Venice falling in love with a Slovene boy, moving to Piran and
sometime thereafter opening a restaurant specialising in Istrian
and Venetian cuisine fresh from the sea. Okay perhaps thats
not the most typical of stories, but now more than a decade on,
the little restaurant near the entrance to town has built a repu-
tation as one of the coasts top dining destinations, as much for
the convivial atmosphere and genuine hospitality of the hosts
Mara and Tomi, as for the excellent cuisine they serve.QDante-
jeva 17, tel. +386 (0)41 616 488/+386 (0)5 673 4735, www.
primari-piran.com. Open 12:00-22:00, Sun 12:00-18:00.
Closed in January, and 16:00-18:00 in summer. PA
Ribja restavracija Tri vdove
Preernovo nabreje 4, 6330 Piran/Pirano
tel: + 386 5 673 02 90
TOURIST INFORMATION
Boasting perhaps the best address of any tourist infor-
mation centre in Slovenia, TIC Piran has the privilege of
calling the ground oor of the towns gleaming white Ve-
netian town hall on Tartini Square home. While the inte-
rior is on a bit more humble scale than the faade would
suggest, theres a huge selection books, brochures, maps,
yers and more from seemingly every tourist-oriented
venue on the coast and beyond. But dont worry, the
cheerful sta manning the counter can help you make
sense of it all.QC-2, Tartinijev Trg 2, tel. +386 (0)5 673
44 40, fax +386 (0)5 673 44 41, ticpi@portoroz.si, www.
portoroz.si. Open 09:00-17:00, Sun 10:00-14:00 (Sept-
June), 09:00-20:00 (July-Aug).
Piran is quite likely Slovenias prettiest town, photo by Matej Kastelic / Shutterstock
Piran Piran
IVO
This place came highly recommended by some of our Slovene
friends who know a thing or two about quality cuisine, and we
cant say that we were disappointed. It may look a little worse
for wear than some of the other places you pass along the
promenade, but every item on our reasonably-priced combo
platter was cooked to perfection. Would we be able to tell it
apart from the competition in a blind taste test? Its highly un-
likely well ever have to.QA-1, Gregorieva 31, tel. +386 (0)5
673 22 33. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (6-24). PJAB
LA BOTTEGA DEI SAPORI
A relative newcomer to Pirans culinary scene, Bottega
nevertheless boasts one of the nest locations of any res-
taurant on the coast - occupying a sizeable swath of the
towns famed Tartini Square. With 40 years of experience,
head chef Sergio Vuk sees to it that each and every dish
coming from the kitchen is a worthy compliment to the
venue, and the menu features traditional Istrian dishes
with hints of Italian and French inuence. Perhaps best
of all the reasonable prices here belie the high quality,
so ordering multiple courses and lingering over a bottle
of prized Slovene wine is denitely recommended.QKa-
juhova 12, tel. +386 (0)59 920 474, labottegapirano@
gmail.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PJB
PAVEL & PAVEL 2
This extremely popular family-run seafood restaurant
is something of an institution on the waterfront of Pi-
ran. In order to accommodate the demand from both
tourists and locals, they had to open a second loca-
tion - the imaginatively named Pavel 2, lest there be
any confusion - just a couple steps away. The covered
outdoor dining area is close enough to the sea to catch
your own dinner, although its probably a better idea to
just enjoy the superb view and leave the angling to old
Pavel. But most importantly the food actually manages
to back up its oversized reputation.QA-1, Preernovo
Nabreje, tel. +386 (0)5 674 71 02/+386 (0)5 674
71 01, pavel.piran@siol.net. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
TJAUBK
PIRAT
A quieter alternative for those who would like to avoid
the omnipresent crowds at the main clutch of seafood
places on Preernovo Nabreje but still fancy a proper
plate of sh with views of the water, although in this case
that water is the port rather than the open sea. There
are usually a couple of daily specials sans sh for around
7, but prices tend to be on par with those at its higher
volume competition on the other side of town.QA-1,
upanieva 26, tel. +386 (0)5673 14 81. Open 10:00
23:00. (5.5-18). PJAB
PIZZERIA PETICA
The kind of place where locals drop in for a drink before
heading home, kids wait impatiently for takeaway piz-
zas, and cute scruffy dogs give looks that make it irre-
sistible not to feed them on the sly when their owners
not looking [editors note: we admit nothing], Petica is
Ribja Kantina Restaurant
Savudrijska ulica 1
6330 Piran - Pirano
Phone: + 386 (0)41 574 509
Gost i e Del n
Kosovel ova ul i ca 4
6330 Pi ran
Tel: 05 673 24 48
Fax: 05 673 44 48
E-mail: deln.piran@gail.com
www.delnpiran.si
a Piran institution, and on top of everything else they
make perhaps the best pizza on the coast. The menu
also includes excellent homemade pastas, various
grilled meat dishes and salads, all of which are a great
value. During the lunch and dinner rushes youll likely
have a bit of wait.Qupanieva 6, tel. +386 80 3588.
Open 11:00 - 23:00.
RIBJA KANTINA
Walking along the Piran shoreline it is hard to distinguish
from which of the many restaurants the delicious aromas
are wafting. What is for sure is that Ribja Kantina is con-
tributing its share. A stones throw from the promenade
and few minutes walk from Tartini Square, this special-
ist seafood restaurant serves up beautiful fresh seafood
with classic Adriatic dishes and excellent daily specials.
Order a glass (or bottle) of local wine to complete the
quintessential Piran experience.QB-2, Savudrijska 1, tel.
+386 (0)41 574 509. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
TRI VDOVE
Boasting a well-deserved reputation for friendly and
ecient service, Tri Vdove (or the Three Windows) is an
excellent spot to stop for lunch or a sunset dinner along
Pirans main waterfront promenade. It should come as
no surprise that the menu is dominated by page after
page of sh and other seafood dishes, however, various
steak and grilled meat dishes are also available for those
who have already had their ll of sea-based creatures.
The house wine has the benet of being both high qual-
ity and inexpensive, giving you an extra reason to linger
after the meal and appreciate the views.QPreernovo
Nabreje 4, tel. +386 (0)5 673 02 90/+386 (0)41 507
653. Open 10:00 - 01:00. .
CAFS
CAF TEATER
Housed in the golden yellow theatre building between
Hotel Piran and the pier, Teaters always busy terrace spills
over onto the promenade where you can lounge atop
comfy pillows and observe the comings and goings of
the port. The caf pulls double duty as the towns premier
nightspot, which would come highly recommended even
if it had some competition. If that werent enough they
also rent scooters and some fabulous apartments across
the harbour.QB-2, Stjenkova 1, tel. +386 (0)41 63 89 33,
www.piranjein.com. Open 07:00 - 02:00. PJAB
TARTINI CAF
In a town were the famous composer unwittingly lends
his name to just about everything, were not exactly sure
how this became the Tartini caf but we assume it wasnt
an easy feat. In any event, housed in a beautiful building
that was once the old town Loggia in the north corner of
Tartini Square, its denitely worthy of the name - although
its pastel furniture and futuristic egg shell chairs do seem
a bit out of place.QTartinijev Trg 3, tel. +386 (0)5 673 33
81. Open 07:00 - 24:00. PJAB
Piran Piran
We can be found in the
magnifcent scenic fortifed
town of Piran, a town with a
rich cultural heritage. Family
restaurants PAVEL and PAVEL
2 are located side by side on
the beautiful coast of Piran.
We ofer you international
cuisine with an emphasis on
seafood specialties.
Welcome.
RESTAURANT - PAVEL & PAVEL 2
phone: +386 (0)5 674 71 01
email: pavel.piran@siol.net
Piran
SIGHTSEEING
Not much of an eort needs to be made to go sightseeing
in Piran, in fact quite the opposite is true: it would take a
Herculean feat to avoid seeing the towns wealth of sights. In
addition to a lengthy must-see list of churches, squares and
palaces, there are countless less-heralded sights to be en-
joyed. Pirans cobbled backstreets and alleyways are literally
lined with statues, arches, coats of arms, intricately carved
doors and stately old villas just waiting to imprint themselves
in visitors memories. The regions long seafaring tradition is
also well-represented at two nautical themed museums,
and a number of art galleries - both public and private - hold
regular exhibitions. Piran is easily covered on foot, although a
hike up to the cathedral and further on to the remaining sec-
tion of the old town wall is enough to leave us in need of a
cold beer and a siesta, especially during the summer. Also be
aware that many of the museums and galleries keep shorter
hours in the winter, some even open by appointment only,
so if you visit during the low season its always a good idea to
drop by the helpful tourist oce for all the latest information.
1ST OF MAY SQUARE (PRVOMAJSKI TRG)
The administrative centre of Piran until the 13th century, these
days it stands in stark contrast to the glistening Tartinijev Trg
only a couple hundred metres away: scruy and an unkempt
with the odd clump of grass poking up between stones and
more than one faade unintentionally revealing brick walls
beneath crumbling layers of paint, in other words, perfect. In
addition to several restaurants, art galleries and a great little
wine bar, a large stone cistern elevates nearly half the square a
metre o the ground and serves as a stage for various music,
dance and theatre performances during the summer. Flank-
ing the stairs leading up to the now dormant wells are two al-
legorical statues representing Law and Justice, both of which
are obligingly photogenic.QB-1.
TARTINI SQUARE (TARTINIJEV TRG)
Already arguably the most impressive squares in Slovenia, all
debate was put to rest last year when it was transformed into
a pedestrian only zone with outdoor cafs taking the place
of parked cars - a fact that has yet to be reected on most
internet sites, including Google Maps. Fronted by two large
neo-Renaissance buildings on one side and a mlange of
smaller buildings of varying architectural styles on the other,
the square itself is younger than almost all of them, having
been part of Pirans harbour until it was lled in in 1884. The
squares inner oval was given its distinctive shape when it
served as the terminus for an electric railway that connected
Piran to Portoro and Lucija until 1953, while its white marble
surface was something of a posthumous gift to the late Tartini
in 1992 on what would have been his 300th birthday.QC-2.
TOWN HALL
The modern town hall dominates the northern end of Tartini-
jev Trg and is the administrative centre of the Municipality of
Piran, which includes the nearby towns of Portoro, Strunjan
and Lucija. It was originally built by the Venetians shortly after
their arrival at the end of the 13th century, but was torn down
in 1877 and rebuilt in a more contemporary style. Several stat-
ues and coats of arms that adorned the original building are
on display in the atrium.QC-2, Tartinijev Trg 2.
ST GEORGE CATHEDRAL
Watching over the town and visible from nearly every open
space is the massive cathedral dedicated to Pirans patron
saint, the dragon slaying young knight from Capadoccia,
George. Legend has it that towards the end of the 16th cen-
tury the cathedral fell into a state of disrepair, which was so
troubling that the Saint George himself made an appearance
in order to motivate the citizenry to undertake the necessary
renovations, and even blinded a sceptical mayor to show he
meant business. True or not, the cathedral saw some major
renovations shortly thereafter, including the addition of a
nearly 50m bell tower, which is a scale copy of the San Marco
Campanile in Venice. Throw in some stunning views of both
the city and the sea and you have the makings for one of the
most impressive churches in Slovenia.QC-1, Adamieva 6.
TARTINI HOUSE
Originally going by the name Casa Pizagrua this somewhat
modest palace next to St Peters Church on the eastern side
Tartinijev Trg was the birthplace of the composer - and name-
sake of roughly half of Piran - Giuseppe Tartini. It underwent
extensive renovations in the late 1980s and is now home to
the main oces of the Italian Community in Piran. There is
also a small museum on the rst oor displaying, among
other things, one of the masters violins, his death mask and
various letters, manuscripts and scores.QC-2, Tartinijev Trg 7.
ACCOMMODATION
MAX
Up the hill from Tartini Square, this small boutique hotel is
housed in a beautiful 300 year old house and is one of our
favourite places to stay on the coast, although if youre a light
sleeper the over-active bells at the cathedral next door may
prove bothersome. Max, the owner and apparently sole em-
ployee, is a friendly old bulldog and ardent Liverpool support-
er wholl be glad to carry your luggage up the narrow stairs
or talk your ear o over coee, but weve also heard rumours
that he can have a bit of bark if you interrupt his afternoon
siesta.QC-2, Korpusa 26, tel. +386 (0)5 673 34 76/+386
(0)41 69 29 28, info@maxpiran.com, www.maxpiran.com.
6 rooms (doubles 60-70). PJA hhh
TARTINI
With apologies to several other worthy contenders, Tartini
Square is without any question the nest urban space in all of
Slovenia and for our money the views overlooking it from this
adjacent hotel of the same name are the best in town - all the
better that they come without the 10 premium charged for
rooms with a sea view. Inside, the well-appointed rooms are
warm and spacious, and the hotels lone suite and its private
terrace are a great value if there is someone youd like to im-
press.QC-2, Tartinijev Trg 15, tel. +386 (0)5 671 10 00, info@
hotel-tartini-piran.com, www.hotel-tartini-piran.com. 45
rooms and 1 suite (singles 62-88, doubles 84-118, triples
114-162, suite 140-192). hhh
VILA MIA CHANEL
These family run rental apartments are the perfect place to
unwind and relax. Behind the postcard cute faade lies six
spacious and luxuriously decked out apartments that come
complete with equipped modern kitchenettes and all have
views of the beautiful Piran coast, which is only 20m from
the front door, while the private terrace is the perfect place
to enjoy the sunset. Vila Mia Chanel also has private parking
spaces at no extra cost (an absolute rarity in Piran) so even
your car gets a great sea view.QB-5, Dantejeva 31, tel. +386
(0)41 711 888/+386 (0)51 694 100, apartma.piran@gmail.
com, www.piranisin.com. From 120 per night.
BRODARSTVO GORJAN
This family-run maritime company has been in the
passenger transport business for three decades,
nowadays catering primarily to foreign and Slo-
vene tourists with sightseeing trips along the Slo-
vene coast. In addition to regular return services
between Portoro to Izola in the summertime, they
also offer dining excursions with several different
seafood meal options for 30 or more guests, with
the larger of their two vessels accommodating
up 147 people. More detailed info can be found
on their website.QRegenta 13, tel. +386 (0)5
6730 780/+386 (0)41 664 132, info@brodarstvo-
gorjan.si, www.brodarstvo-gorjan.si.
Portoro Portoro
With only 47km of Adriatic coast Slovenes have to
make the most of every centimetre. The result is
a coastline dotted with half a dozen or so notable
towns, each with its own unique character, strengths
and weaknesses. The poetically named Portoro, or
Port of Roses, is home to one of the largest modern
marinas on the Adriatic and is the undisputed king of
Slovenias coastal tourism trade. Although it lacks the
Venetian old towns that can be found else where along
the coast, its numerous hotels, restaurants, conference
centres, spas and casinos make it a popular destina-
tion for both foreigners and Slovenes, and an excellent
base for day trips and excursions farther afield.
Portoro has been a tourist destination as far back as the
13th century, when it developed a niche as a health re-
sort, and towards the end of the 19th century it became
widely known for the healing properties of its mud and
salt water baths. This reputation has persisted till today,
with the city currently home to no less than six dierent
wellness spas and resorts. Aside from spas, Portoro al-
soplays host to various national and international confer-
ences, exhibitions and trade fairs, which enables the city
to maintain a bustling vibrant air throughout the entire
year. One of its largest annual events is Internautica, an
international boat show held every May, which attracts
over 400 exhibitors and 40,000 visitors - its a sight to see
even if youre not in the market for a new luxury yacht.
RESTAURANTS
PADELA
Set near the Portoro Marina at the far end of the main
seaside promenade, Padela is one of the few places in
town that is both patronised and recommended by lo-
cals. The interior is modernly renovated, but in the classic
Istrian style, with wooden ceilings and limestone walls,
while theres also a large outdoor terrace. Highlights of
the menu include classic Istrian dishes like homemade
pasta with trues, seafood from the Adriatic and local
Karst prosciutto, with much more reasonable prices than
the majority of the more centrally located establishments.
QObala 99, tel. +386 (0)5 902 36 59, gostilna.padela@
gmail.com. Open 10:00-23:00, Fri-Sat 10:00-01:00
FLEUR DE SEL
Named for the crme de la crme of sea salts, for which
Portoro has long been known, this ne restaurant within
the Kempinski Palace combines modern fusion cuisine,
a friendly laid-back atmosphere and exceptional views
of the sea from its position on the rst oor. The perfect
place for a relaxed lunch during a long conference day or a
morning spent at the pool.QD-2, Kempinski Palace, Oba-
la 45, tel. +386 (0)5 692 7000, reservations.portoroz@
kempinski.com, www.kempinski.com/portoroz. Open
11:00 - 23:00. PJAL
STARA OLJKA
Harkening back to simpler more relaxed time when
locals used to while away hot summer days chatting
under the cool shade of an olive tree, Stara Oljka, or
the Old Olive Tree in English, offers traditional Istrian
cuisine in a pleasant atmosphere right along the water-
front in the centre of Portoro. Fittingly, several vener-
able old olive trees still provide shade for diners on the
large sea-facing terrace in the back. In addition to the
wide selection of fish and seafood dishes, there are am-
ple meat and vegetarian options on the menu, and the
knowledgable staff can help recommend the perfect
wine to compliment it.QE-3, Obala 20, tel. +386 (0)5
674 85 55, www.staraoljka.si. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
PTA6IGBXSW
CAFS
CACAO
A modern, stylish caf thats as well-known for its home-
made ice cream and cakes as it is for its coee. The interior is
done up in the minimalist nouveau Euro-style seems to be
as popular in Slovenia as it is elsewhere on the continent,
while the sta are generally attentive and fast. The place
also functions as a bar once the clock hits a reasonable hour
for drinking - what time this is exactly is not for us to say,
but we can highly recommend the cocktails.QD-2, Obala
14, tel. +386 (0)5 674 10 35, www.cacao.si, Open 08:00 -
03:00. PTAR6UGBX
NIGHTLIFE
KANELA BAR
A fabulous rock n roll hangout during the summer
time, day and night. The bar is actually so small you
can barely fit more than 10 people inside at any given
moment, but most prefer the pleasure of the beach di-
rectly in front of the amongst the tall palm trees where
the music is still heard loud and clear. Live rock con-
certs are frequent and the atmosphere surely heats up
in the late hours with plenty of singing and dancing:
a beach party in the making! Weve personally spent
many a late night (and early morning) here. QD-2,
Obala 14, tel. +386 (0)5 674 61 81, www.kanelabar.
com. Open 09:00 - 03:00. 6UEGBX
PAPRIKA
With an unbeatable location in the middle of
Portoro Bay, Paprikas position allows guests to
enjoy the most beautiful views of the Istrian coast-
line, while they enjoy exceptional service, top qual-
ity drinks, cocktails, snacks and some of the best ice
cream around. Of course many people come here
for the views inside, as this caf by day turns into
one of the most popular nightlight venues on the
coast af ter the sun goes down.QD-3, Obala 20a,
tel. +386 (0)40 366 299, info@paprika.si, www.
paprika.si. Open 08:00 - 03:00. Admission free.
PAULEGBXW
portoro - ljubljana - prague
In Portoro the fun really begins after the sun goes down, photo by Urosr / Shutterstock
Portoro Portoro
SIGHTSEEING
AVDITORIJ PORTORO CULTURAL CENTER
The auditoriums logo doesnt seem to have been updated
since the disco era and it seems its conference centre may not
have had any major changes since then either, nonetheless it
still plays host to a number of conferences and major concerts
throughout the year. Check their schedule to see whether
theyve got something to your interest.QE-2, Senna Pot 10,
tel. +386 (0)5 676 67 00, info@avditorij.si, www.avditorij.si.
FORMA VIVA
Established in the early 1960s by two Slovene artists, this
sculpture park now serves as home to a large park full of
mostly abstract pieces by an international mix of artists. Head
inside and along the beautiful grassy area for a meditative
walk, or perch yourself on one of the many benches and
watch the boats sail by. A very unique treat!QC/D-5, Sea,
tel. +386 (0)5 671 20 80, info@obalne-galerije.si, www.
obalne-galerije.si. Open whole day. No admission fee.
HOLY CHURCH OF OUR LADY OF THE ROSARY
Travellers who have grown accustomed to and bored with
elaborate old European churches, might enjoy this interest-
ing little break from the ancient and rareed. Constructed
in the 1980s, with wooden surroundings and small stained
glass, this interesting piece of architecture seems to evoke
a happy hippy feeling of Catholicism, with a not-so-pained
Jesus leaning down from the cross to speak to a group of
friends.The outside lobby oers free postcards and reading
material.QD-3, Cvetna Pot 4, tel. +386 (0)5674 67 00.
MARINA PORTORO
Located less than a kilometre from the centre of town, the
vast modern marina in Portoro is the gateway to the Medi-
terranean not only for Slovenia but all of Central Europe.
With over one thousand berths accommodating boats up
to 22 metres in length, it is one of the largest marinas in the
entire Adriatic. Aside from the standard dockside facilities
the marina essentially contains a miniature resort with guest
rooms, restaurants and cafs, as well as sports facilities in-
cluding tennis courts, swimming pools, a tness centre
and even a driving range. In May the marina plays host to
Internautica, a large international boat show which attracts
over 40,000 visitors each year.QE-4/5, Cesta solinarjev 8,
tel. +386 (0)5 6761 100, fax +386 (0)5 6761 210, booking@
marinap.si, www.marinap.si.
SEOVLJE SALINA NATURE PARK
Hundreds of years ago, salt was a commodity almost as
valuable as gold and rulers fought to acquire and control
its means of collection. Seovlje was one such raried area
and today it is preserved as a park with a visitors centre
and museum. A fascinating piece of history, the salt pans
are not only an interesting public park, they are also a well-
preserved natural habitat for birds. The trek out to the pans
is an interesting one but make sure to pack your insect
repellant, not all of the inhabitants here are friendly.Qtel.
+386 (0)5 672 13 30, kpss@soline.si, www.kpss.si. Open
08:00 - 17:00. Admission: 5 adults; 3 students, seniors;
10 families; free for children under age six.
ACCOMMODATION
HOSTEL EUROPA PORTORO
The Slovene coasts newest hostel provides a much need-
ed option for budget travellers visiting glitzy Portoro. And
its not just the prices that are great, the hostel is located in
the centre of town 50m from one of Portoros most popu-
lar beaches. Its nine themed rooms are clean and comfort-
able, and the dorms with en suites are particularly good as
they have two toilets. Dorms can also be converted into
family rooms and even pets are welcome (with advanced
notice). Although there is no kitchen guests wont go hun-
gry as the hostel serves an excellent breakfast and in the
afternoon their bar oers reasonably priced local wine and
delicious bar snacks.QE-2, Senna Pot 2, tel. +386 (0)5
90 325 74, info@ehp.si, ehp.si. 9 rooms with 49 beds
(dorms from 22 with breakfast, 24 in July/Aug 24).
PiJBKW
GRAND HOTEL METROPOL
High up on a hill overlooking the beach area, Metropol
is one of the major sprawling hotel complexes along the
seaside strip. The complex also features a popular ca-
sino, an adult nightclub, and full (though slightly dated
) spa facilities. The hotel has the distinction of having a
direct bridge to the beach from a passageway through
the lobby, and from there you can also access their
private swimming pool and lounge area on the beach
front.QE-3, Obala 77, tel. +386 (0)5 690 10 00, fax
+386 (0)5 690 19 00, sales@metropolgroup.si, www.
metropolgroup.si. 103 rooms (singles 185, doubles
250-270, suites 420-550). POTHARF
GKDCW hhhhh
KEMPINSKI PALACE PORTORO
This iconic hotel has taken centre stage in Portoro since
it rst opened in 1910 during the waning years of the
Habsburg Empire. Combining Viennese elegance, modern
design and of course the famous Kempinski air for style
and service, the hotel is quite simply one of the grandest
places to stay in all of Slovenia. If price is no object, book
one of the two Laguna suites, which include a rooftop
terrace with a private Jacuzzi and breathtaking views of
the Adriatic Sea.QD-2, Obala 45, tel. +386 (0)5 692 70
00/+386 (0)5 692 79 50, reservations.portoroz@kem-
pinski.com, www.kempinski.com/portoroz. 164 rooms
and 17 suites (singles from 135, doubles from 155,
suites from 450). PTJHAUILEB
KXCW hhhhh
BARKA REGINA
Theres no better way to see Portoro, Piran or the rest
of the breathtaking Slovenian coast than from the sea!
If youre not one of the lucky few who have their own
boats, no need to worry, the Barka Regina tourist boat
oers various type of trips at reasonable prices. Pan-
oramic sightseeing trips lasting up to three hours cost
only 15 per person, while other organised itineraries
cruise for almost twice as long and also include full sea-
food feasts with drinks. The so-called Queen of Portoro
can also be chartered for extended shing trips, birth-
day parties, romantic dinners and more. Amenities on
the classic wooden boat include a bar, full kitchen, an
entertainment system and even wireless internet.Qtel.
+386 (0)31 518 338/+386 (0)31 662 438, regina@
zlatecan.com, www.barka-regina.si.
INTERNAUTICA
07.05 WEDNESDAY - 11.05 SUNDAY
The Internautica International Boat Show is the Adriatics
most signicant marine lifestyle event with a long tradi-
tion dating back almost two decades. Held every year in
Marina Portoro, it has a strong inuence on purchasing
and strategic decision-making in the nautical industry
market. Internautica features the largest display of boats
in the region, and each year there are more than 250 spe-
cialized exhibitors participating and well over 30,000 visi-
tors from Slovenia and neighbouring countries.
The Show strives to oer boating enthusiasts the most
complete picture of the marine market, whilst at the
same time providing an entertainment package that
will keep both enthusiasts and those simply looking for
a good day out engaged and having fun for their entire
visit. Internautica is committed to providing all exhibitors
with the best possible environment in which to show
their goods and services.QMarina Portoro, Solinarjev
8, tel. +386 (0)1 56 55 126, www.internautica.net.
Discover its exquisite cuisine based on istrian culinary
tradirion with infuencesof the mediterraniean yet.
Explore the fabulous taste of Adriatic sea food, special meat,
istrian trufes and home-made pasta which is prepared.
+386 (05) 902 36 59 / gostilna.padela@gmail.com
Obala 99, Portoro
ROYAL ADVENTURES ON THE SLOVENIAN SEA
Fish picnics - Panoramic - Fishing - Private groups - Celebrations - Romantic dinners
+386 31 662 348, regina@zlatecan.com, www.barka-regina.si
PADELA
The Karst The Karst
Geographically speaking the Karst Plateau, or simply
the Karst (Kras in Slovene), occupies the large area of
limestone highlands stretching from the southern
edges of the Vipava Valley in the north to the northern
parts of Croatias Istrian peninsula in the south, which
is not to be confused with the still relatively new Green
Karst (Zeleni Kras) regional tourism brand, or the more
general Karst topographical features that can be found
in pockets across all of Slovenia. The region actually
gave its name to the distinctive topography where lay-
ers of dissolved bedrock separate, often creating net-
works of caves and subterranean rivers, which has led
to it often being referred to as the Classical Karst (just
to make things more complicated).
Regardless of semantics, the region is a fascinating place
with many notable destinations that can be visited on
easy day trips from Slovenias coastal towns. Perhaps most
noteworthy are the UNESCO protected kocjan Caves lo-
cated just outside the town of Divaa, while the small vil-
lage of Lipica near Seana is known throughout the world
for its white Lipizzaner horses. Further to the north the
hilltop town of tanjel is about as postcard worthy as they
come, with its winding cobble streets oering sweeping
vistas of the valley below. Of course the region as a whole
is perhaps best known for its gastronomic contributions
such as the dry-cured Karst prosciutto (kraki prut) and
the dark red Terrano or Teran wine, which is also fashioned
into a sweet liquor that is unfailingly oered at the end of
every meal in the region.
RESTAURANTS
GOSTILNA SKOK
An excursion into the Karst countryside is a must during any
extended stay at the Slovenian Coast, and the charming
family-run Skok guesthouse in the hills above Seana makes
an excellent destination. The menu here focuses exclusively
on local seasonal dishes, with house specialties including jota
stew with sausage, homemade gnocchi, hand-cut prosciutto,
venison steaks and other dishes. In 2011, Skok was one of the
founding members of the Gostilna Slovenija brand, which has
strict criteria for guaranteeing the authenticity Slovene cui-
sine and wine at establishments proudly displaying its trade-
mark bell. If the the village setting takes your fancy, there are
seven spacious modern guest rooms available for overnight
stays.Qtorje 27, Seana, tel. +386 (0) 768 54 09/+386 (0)41
725 504, gostilna.skok@gmail.com, www.gostilna-skok.
com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. PTALB
MAJERIJA
This villa outside the village of Slap is one of the premier gas-
tronomic destinations of the region, and, budget permitting,
a perfect place to end a day of wine tasting in Vipava. A head
chef who moonlights as a professor at a culinary school in
Trieste endows the place with a certain pedigree and also
guarantees a steady stream of Italian visitors at the weekends.
All the ingredients are freshly sourced from local producers
(or the herb garden out back), and the oft-changing menu is
seasonal, focussing on light Mediterranean cuisine during the
warmer months and hearty central European dishes in the
fall and winter. Highly recommended.QSlap 18, Vipava, tel.
+386 (0)5 368 5010/+386 (0)41 405 903, info@majerija.si,
www.majerija.si. Multi-course meal with wine from 40-
70 per person.
MORSKI KONJIEK
Found near the town of Pivka just o the main Postojna-Pivka-
Ilirska Bistrica road (some 15 minutes south of the A1 motor-
way), this sprawling countryside restaurant is a popular stop
for Slovenes and tourists after a day at the coast. Given that its
name translates seahorse in English, its not surprising that sh
and other seafood specialities are the main focus of the menu
here, but for those who have already had their ll of such fare,
there are plenty of other dishes and some ne pizzas. For fami-
lies theres a childrens playground for a before or after dinner
romp, and for those whod like to stay for a drink or ve the
place is open till the wee hours at the weekends.QMala Pris-
tava 10, Pivka, tel. +386 (0)5 753 20 55/+386, (0)41 523 325,
darija.hrvatic@gmail.com. Open 11:00-24:00, Fri 11:00-
04:00, Sat 09:00-04:00, Sun 09:00-24:00. Closed Mon ex-
cept for holidays.
RUJ
Set in an unassuming stone house just steps from the Italian
border, Ruj is perennially on the shortlist of Slovenias best
restaurants and ttingly named after the Slovene word for
Sumac - a small nondescript shrub that produces a brightly
coloured fruit, which is ground into a tangy crimson spice.
Despite the modest surroundings, a typical meal at Ruj fea-
tures course after course of exquisitely prepared dishes, using
only the freshest of local ingredients, each plate accompa-
nied by the perfectly matched Slovene wine, and optionally
followed by a post-meal cigar on the terrace. For lovers of
good food, it is truly an experience not to be missed. Reserva-
tions highly recommended.QDol pri Vogljah 16, Dutovlje,
tel. +386 (0)5 734 17 20, peter.patajac1@siol.net. Open
10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed. .
SIGHTSEEING
TANJEL
This hilltop village, known as the Jewel of the Karst, is one of
Slovenias most spectacular towns. Steeped in history, the
town was built by the Romans, while Ottoman raids in the
16th century prompted the ruling Counts of Cobenzl to add
extensive fortications. Despite sustaining considerable dam-
age during the Second World War, this charming medieval
town has since been restored to its former glory. Entering the
town through the stone archway is like stepping back in time,
gravel streets wind past traditional Karst houses leading onto
cute little squares with ancient stone wells. To get a proper
view into traditional life in tanjel, head to the Karst House
(Kraka Hia), which has been converted into a fascinating
little ethnographic museum. The parish church and remains
of the 16th-century castle are the most prominent landmarks
in town, with parts of the later having been converted into
an exhibition space that houses an excellent collection of Tri-
este-born Slovenian artist Lojze Spacal, famous for his graphic
representations of the Karst and coastal regions. The castles
pleasant courtyard is an ideal place to soak up tanjels time-
less atmosphere, preferably with a glass of local wine and a
plate of famous Karst pruscuitto. Beneath the village the
picturesque Ferrari Garden (Ferrarijev Vrt) doesnt feature any
Italian luxury cars, but the well-kept pathways, restored stone
walls and mancured ora have nevertheless been declared
a national monument. The gardens highlight is small stone
pool and its stunning views over the Branica Valley.
DIVAA
This little town in the southwest of the country has long
been a crossroads town and transport hub with this role only
strengthening with the development of the railway - today it
enjoys good connections with Ljubljana, the coast including
Croatia and to the north towards Nova Gorica and Jesenice.
If you do nd yourself with a couple of hours to burn while
waiting for a train, the 17th-century krateljnova house is one
Gostlna in pizzerija
Morski Konjiek
Mala Pristava 10, 6257 Pivka
tel: +386 5 753 20 55
gsm: +386 41 523 325
email: darija.hrvatc@gmail.com
The hilltop town of tanjel is known as the Jewel of the Karst, photo courtesy of TIC tanjel
The karst invigorate and creatons
Gostlna SKOK / torje 27, Seana / +386 (05) 768 54 09
www.gostlna-skok.com
The Karst The Karst
Lipica Stud Farm has ourished
tremendously since its con-
ception over 400 years ago.
Set amongst beautiful natural
surroundings,it is not only home
to more than 350 Lipizzaner
horses, but also very rich in his-
tory. Since its foundation by the
Habsburg Archduke Charles II in
1580, Lipica has become one of
the most prominent attractions Slovenia has to oer.
One of the many reasons this stud farm stands so proud-
ly today is the origin of the Lipizzaner. These capable
and distinguished horses have taken a major part in the
development of this amazing establishment since the
very beginning, and are reputed for having an eager-
ness to learn. Best of all they have been particularly well-
trained in the art of riding, which has enabled a large
assortment of activities and events to occur frequently,
making now more than a ne time to pay a visit.
To put it simply, Lipikum museum excels in portraying
the amazing Lipizzaner through modern presentations,
with both interactive displays and classical exhibits. It
will leave you knowing more than you could hope to,
and all through a pleasant and amusing experience for
both adults and children. The Stud Farm also oers a
nice and informative tour (available in English, Italian,
German, Croatian, French and Slovene), where friendly
guides will see that you are well informed about Lipicas
most beloved beast, and extensive history how of how
it came to be.
For centuries Lipizzaners have incorporated carriage
drawing into their area of expertise. Now, you can take a
carriage ride through Lipicas colourful and peaceful at-
mosphere of groomed grounds, with your own friendly
carriage driver.
To get a little more active, Lipica Stud Farm hosts a vari-
ety of invigorating horse riding programmes, as well as
lessons for more advanced riders. If you ever imagined
yourself as a brave knight of old then you just might
want to seize the days and give it a try! On a side-note,
they also oer pony riding lessons for kids between
three and seven years old, where, for a very reasonable
price, the little one will learn the basics of riding horses,
and more importantly, how to treat them.
At the end of a tiring and eventful day, retreat to the
comfort of your accommodation, where you can enjoy
various delicacies of the Karst, and relay in the peace
of the secluded location, resting up for the next days
learning, riding, show or indeed onward journey. By vir-
tue of the ample facilities in the main centre, Lipica in
as excellent destination either for all manner of confer-
ences, or to get married.
And last but not least, it would be folly not to mention
the classical riding school! The pride of the Lipica Stud
Farm the cream of the crop stallions training their el-
egant trots, turns and other skills. The training sessions
are open to spectators and of course there is a busy pro-
gramme of equestrian events and shows to be consid-
ered when planning your visit, including the following:
Day of the Lipizzaner (18 May), FEI International Dressage
Competition (23-25 May), FEI International Driving Com-
petition (27-29 June) and Days of the Lipica Stud Farm
(12-14 September).
Event or not, anyone with even a passing interest in the
long faced beauties should not leave Slovenia without
paying Lipica a visit!QLipica 5, Seana, tel. +386 (0)5
739 1580, fax +386 (0)5 739 1730, info@lipica.org,
www.lipica.org.
LIPICA STUD FARM LIPICA STUD FARM
April - May 2014 53 facebook.com/ljubljana.inyourpocket
What to see
Lipica Stud Farm has our-
ished tremendously since its
conception over 400 years
ago. Set amongst beautiful
natural surroundings,it is not
only home to more than 350
Lipizzaner horses, but also
very rich in history. Since its
foundation by the Habsburg
Archduke Charles II in 1580,
Lipica has become one of the most prominent attrac-
tions Slovenia has to oer.
ly today is the origin of the Lipizzaner. These capable and
distinguished horses have taken a major part in the de-
velopment of this amazing establishment since the very
beginning, and are reputed for having an eagerness to
learn. Best of all they have been particularly well-trained
in the art of riding, which has enabled a large assortment
of activities and events to occur frequently, making now
more than a ne time to pay a visit.
it came to be.
carriage driver.
Day of the Lipizzaner (18 May), FEI International Dres-
sage Competition (23-25 May), FEI International Driving
Competition (27-29 June) and Days of the Lipica Stud
Farm (12-14 September).
www.lipica.org.
LIPICA STUD FARM
What to see
Lipica Stud Farm has our-
ished tremendously since its
conception over 400 years
ago. Set amongst beautiful
natural surroundings,it is not
only home to more than 350
Lipizzaner horses, but also
very rich in history. Since its
foundation by the Habsburg
Archduke Charles II in 1580,
Lipica has become one of the most prominent attrac-
tions Slovenia has to oer.
ly today is the origin of the Lipizzaner. These capable and
distinguished horses have taken a major part in the de-
velopment of this amazing establishment since the very
beginning, and are reputed for having an eagerness to
learn. Best of all they have been particularly well-trained
in the art of riding, which has enabled a large assortment
of activities and events to occur frequently, making now
more than a ne time to pay a visit.
it came to be.
carriage driver.
Day of the Lipizzaner (18 May), FEI International Dres-
sage Competition (23-25 May), FEI International Driving
Competition (27-29 June) and Days of the Lipica Stud
Farm (12-14 September).
www.lipica.org.
of the best preserved examples of traditional Karst architec-
ture is worth a look at as is the Slovenian Film Museum which
it now houses. Despite not being the most interesting town
itself, Divaa is a good base for exploring the surroundings
countryside where there are some amazing sights - not least
the nearby UNESCO World Heritage listed kocjan Caves.
SEANA
The old road between Trieste and Ljubljana may take twice
as long as the highway though its meandering route, dot-
ted with little towns, historic sights and natural wonders,
is well worth exploring. One of the interesting towns on
the road is Seana, located basically on the Slovene-Italian
border it has long been a transport hub and regional cen-
tre for the lower Karst area. Its also home to the huge Vina
Kras winery and wine cellar, while the surrounding coun-
tryside is dotted with famed osmice - farmhouses that
traditionally open their doors for lunch and diner eight
days per year. Apart from being a destination for the food
obsessed, gambling obsessives ock to the towns casino
and there are also plenty of interesting cultural and natu-
ral sights in and around town. Highlights in the town in-
clude the botanical gardens which were once the private
gardens of the noble Scaramanga family who developed
the park in the 19th century and with hundreds of spe-
cies from around the world the park was known as one of
the nest in the Austro-Hungarian Empire and is still well
worth a visit. Short drives from town are the impressive
Vilenica caves and the famous stables of Lipica.
KOCJAN CAVES
Quite simply put, Slovenias kocjan Caves are one of
the most astounding natural attractions on the planet,
but you dont have to take our word for it, as there is a
signicant amount of ocial documentation to support
this assertion. One of only three locations in Slovenia to
be recognised as a world heritage site by UNESCO (with
the other two being the mercury mine of Idrija and the
Prehistoric Pile-Dwellings of Ljubljansko Barje), kocjan is
the only one to be on the natural monument list, with this
distinction also notably given to only three other caves in
the entire world.
Since 1996, the territory above and around the caves has
been a protected regional park, and was also recognised
as the rst underground wetland in 1999 under the Ramsar
Convention. However, at the end of the day its the magni-
cent Karst cave system itself that is responsible for attract-
ing an estimated 100,000 visitors per year, the vast majority
of whom (ourselves included) cannot believe their eyes.
First written about during the 2nd century BC, the caves
had actually been discovered long before this, with ar-
cheological evidence proving that they had been used
as far back as the 12th century BC. Of the many artefacts
found within the caves, the majority are weapons (eg
spearheads, axes, swords) and fragments of vessels and
other domestic items used by people during Bronze Age.
Created by the Reka River, which ows for some 55km
above ground before carving its way into the soft lime-
stone that makes up the Karst region, one of the two
possible tours of the caves follows the natural entrance
made by the river near the village of kocjan. This tour can
be done both with or without a guide, and takes in the
sections of the caves where many of the most important
archeological nds were made.
However, the more popular tour begins at the other end
of the caves, through a man-made entrance, and passes
by the main sights, including the so-called Silent Cave
(Tiha Jama) and exits by way of the underground Reka
River canyon, traversing the dizzying 50m-high Cerkvenik
Bridge. Only guided tours are possible along this route. A
third option is the above-ground educational trail, which
circumscribes the landscape of the park, with special em-
phasis given to the ora and fauna, as well as the rich cul-
tural heritage of the area.
Located just outside the town of Divaa in the southwest
of Slovenia, kocjan is easily reached by both car (via the A1
motorway) and train, with up to 16 of the latter travelling
between Ljubljana and Divaa each day, from where its a
3km hike along a well-marked path to the visitor informa-
tion centre in kocjan. Alternatively, several trains are met
by free shuttle buses.Qkocjan 2, Divaa, tel. +386 (0)5
70 82 110, psj.info@psj.gov.si, www.park-skocjanske-
jame.si. Admission prices vary greatly for each of the
three paths, from20/15/10 for adults/students/children
for a combined ticket for both underground routes, to
free admissionfor the educational trail without aguide.
kocjan Caves are truly one of Europes most amazing natural sights,
photo by Borut Lozej / PJ Archives
Postojna Postojna
With less than 10,000 inhabitants Postojna is barely one
of the 20 largest towns in Slovenia, but arguably none are
more well-known throughout that world (including the
capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript settle-
ment in the southwest of the country that wasnt even
ocially recognise until 1909. The reason of course it not
so much the town itself, but the amazing network of karst
caves that lie just below its surface. First opened to the
public in 1819, the world-famous Postojna Cave is said to
have attracted more than 35 million visitors over the past
two centuries, with one of its rst being Austro-Hungarian
Emperor Francis I the year before it opened.
If this were not enough, Postojna is also blessed with an-
other popular sight in its immediate vicinity, the magni-
cent Predjama Castle located some 11km to the northwest
of the town centre. Built in the 13th century and partially
situated under enormous natural stone arch, its not only a
ne castle in its own right, but also sits atop another tour-
ist cave and is also associated with several fascinating leg-
ends.While the vast majority of visitors come to Postojna
just to see one or both of its star attractions, with three
proper hotels and many other guesthouses and private ac-
commodation options located in and around the town, it
makes a good base for exploring parts of central Slovenia
as well as the Karst region that extends towards the Adri-
atic Sea and Italy - Trieste actually being closer to Postojna
than Ljubljana (35km and 54km away respectively).
RESTAURANTS
AVIO PUB
Found just o the runway at Postojnas small recreational
airport, theres a large garden out back where diners can
watch the planes take o and land - many of which are
taking visitors on panoramic ights. Despite the name,
this place is a full-edged pizzeria, steakhouse and wine
bar, with pizzas coming crispy and hot from a wood-red
oven, steaks grilled to perfection and a wide selection
of Slovene wine from the cellar. From Tuesday to Friday
there are multi-course lunch specials starting from only
6. Of course the cosy wood-covered interior is very pub-
like in appearance, and there are four types of draught
beer on hand for those who are thirsty.QRakitnik 1a,
Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, info@aviopub.si,
www.aviopub.si. Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holi-
days 11:00-23:00. Closed Mon. TLBS
PROTEUS RESTAURANT
After a day spent exploring Postojnas famous cave
and other sights, treat yourself to a rst-class meal at
the newly renovated Proteus. Set in a old house that is
typical for the region, the restaurant combines the tradi-
tional and modern with homemade local cuisine served
in an elegant interior. Tables are separated by curtains of
ne white string, which are meant to resemble the geo-
76 Ljubljana In Your Pocket ljubljana.inyourpocket.com
Postojna
capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript settlement
in the southwest of the country that wasnt even ofcially
recognise until 1909. The reason of course it not so much
the town itself, but the amazing network of karst caves that
lie just below its surface. First opened to the public in 1819,
the world-famous Postojna Cave is said to have attracted
more than 35 million visitors over the past two centuries,
with one of its frst being Austro-Hungarian Emperor Francis
I the year before it opened.
If this were not enough, Postojna is also blessed with anoth-
er popular sight in its immediate vicinity, the magnifcent
Predjama Castle located some 11km to the northwest of the
town centre. Built in the 13th century and partially situated
under enormous natural stone arch, its not only a fne castle
in its own right, but also sits atop another tourist cave and
is also associated with several fascinating legends.While the
vast majority of visitors come to Postojna just to see one
or both of its star attractions, with three proper hotels and
many other guesthouses and private accommodation op-
tions located in and around the town, it makes a good base
for exploring parts of central Slovenia as well as the Karst re-
gion that extends towards the Adriatic Sea and Italy - Trieste
actually being closer to Postojna than Ljubljana (35km and
54km away respectively).
WHERE TO STAY
EPICENTRE
Despite the name, Epicentre isnt quite in the centre of
town, although as Postojna isnt a metropolis the location
is still walking distance to everything, and whats more
with a restaurant on the premises and a bowling alley
right next door it could be considered the epicentre of en-
tertainment in town. Most importantly the hotel provides
comfortable and aordable accommodation.QKazarje
10, tel. +386 (0)5 700 22 00, booking@epicenter-on.
net, www.epiceco-hotels.com. 16 rooms, 18 apart-
ments (singles 59-63, doubles 75-85, triple 103-118,
apartments 65-75). PTJLKW
KRAS
This modern hotel is located in the centre of Postojna, just
a few minutes on foot to the citys famous cave, and near
several good restaurants. The hotels caf is also popular
with locals and tourists for ice cream during the day and
drinks at night. Kras oers everything you would expect
from an upmarket hotel - spacious and comfortable rooms
with modern furnishings, a decent continental breakfast
and very friendly sta.QTraka 1, tel. +386 (0)5 700 23
00, booking@hotel-kras.si, www.epiceco-hotels.com.
24 rooms, 3 suites (singles 71-87, doubles 89-109,
suites 121-141).
SPORT
Located just 200m from the centre of Postojna, and just
a 10-minute walk from the regions main attraction, the
magnicent Postojna Cave, Hotel Sport is a good accom-
modation option with clean comfortable rooms and a very
decent buet breakfast thrown in. The hotel also lives up
to its name by oering bicycle storage and rental, whilst
the friendly sta are happy to arrange guided cycling
or hiking tours in the beautiful countryside surround-
ing Postojna.QKolodvorska 1, tel. +386 (0)5 720 22
44, info@sport-hotel.si, www.epiceco-hotels.com. 38
rooms (singles 59-63, doubles 75-85, triples 103-
118, apartments 65-75).
AROUND POSTOJNA
HOTEL CASINO SAFIR
Located in the town of Seana, a stones throw from the
Slovene-Italian border, as the name suggests the mod-
ern Hotel Casino Sar is geared towards casino goers.
Rooms oer all the modern comforts, whilst if youre
lucky in the casino we suggest upgrading to a superior
suit with Jacuzzi. Even if youre not looking to win mon-
ey, the hotel is actually a very good base for exploring
some of the beautiful villages and natural sights nearby,
while Trieste is less than 10km away.QPartizanska 149,
Seana, tel. +386 (0)5 731 44 44, info@safr.si, www.
safr.si. 51 rooms (singles 69-75, doubles 97-109,
suites 121-141).
MIRJAM PENZION & WELLNESS
Set just underneath one of Slovenias most unique natural
sights, the white limestone clis at the southern edge of
the Nanos plateau, Mirjam is mini resort with budget ac-
commodation in both standard guest rooms and a shared
hostel-style dormitories, as well as a small campground
with hookups for motorhomes, shower facilities and plen-
ty of space for pitching a tent. QRazdrto 19, tel. +386
(0)41 684 988/+386 (0)5 75 77 200, mirjam.pavlin@siol.
net, www.mirjam.si. Singles 35, doubles 44, dorms
12, campground 11/two persons (tent or camper).
T6FLEKDCW
WHERE TO EAT
AVIO PUB
Found just o the runway at Postojnas small recreational air-
port, theres a large garden out back where diners can watch
the planes take o and land - many of which are taking visitors
on panoramic ights. Despite the name, this place is a full-
edged pizzeria, steakhouse and wine bar, with pizzas coming
crispy and hot from a wood-red oven, steaks grilled to per-
fection and a wide selection of Slovene wine from the cellar.
From Tuesday to Friday there are multi-course lunch specials
starting from only 6. Of course the cosy wood-covered inte-
rior is very pub-like in appearance, and there are four types of
draught beer on hand for those who are thirsty.QRakitnik 1a,
Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, info@aviopub.si, www.
aviopub.si. Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holidays 11:00-
23:00. Closed Mon. TLBS
Postojna is one of the few towns that still boasts a Tito Square - photo courtesy RDO Postojnska Jama - Zeleni Kras
Postojna
Postojna
capital Ljubljana) than this relatively nondescript settlement
in the southwest of the country that wasnt even ofcially
recognise until 1909. The reason of course it not so much
the town itself, but the amazing network of karst caves that
lie just below its surface. First opened to the public in 1819,
the world-famous Postojna Cave is said to have attracted
more than 35 million visitors over the past two centuries,
with one of its frst being Austro-Hungarian Emperor Francis
I the year before it opened.
If this were not enough, Postojna is also blessed with anoth-
er popular sight in its immediate vicinity, the magnifcent
Predjama Castle located some 11km to the northwest of the
town centre. Built in the 13th century and partially situated
under enormous natural stone arch, its not only a fne castle
in its own right, but also sits atop another tourist cave and
is also associated with several fascinating legends.While the
vast majority of visitors come to Postojna just to see one
or both of its star attractions, with three proper hotels and
many other guesthouses and private accommodation op-
tions located in and around the town, it makes a good base
for exploring parts of central Slovenia as well as the Karst re-
gion that extends towards the Adriatic Sea and Italy - Trieste
actually being closer to Postojna than Ljubljana (35km and
54km away respectively).
WHERE TO STAY
EPICENTRE
town, although as Postojna isnt a metropolis the location
is still walking distance to everything, and whats more
with a restaurant on the premises and a bowling alley
right next door it could be considered the epicentre of en-
tertainment in town. Most importantly the hotel provides
comfortable and aordable accommodation.QKazarje
10, tel. +386 (0)5 700 22 00, booking@epicenter-on.
net, www.epiceco-hotels.com. 16 rooms, 18 apart-
ments (singles 59-63, doubles 75-85, triple 103-118,
apartments 65-75). PTJLKW
KRAS
This modern hotel is located in the centre of Postojna, just
a few minutes on foot to the citys famous cave, and near
several good restaurants. The hotels caf is also popular
with locals and tourists for ice cream during the day and
drinks at night. Kras oers everything you would expect
from an upmarket hotel - spacious and comfortable rooms
with modern furnishings, a decent continental breakfast
and very friendly sta.QTraka 1, tel. +386 (0)5 700 23
00, booking@hotel-kras.si, www.epiceco-hotels.com.
24 rooms, 3 suites (singles 71-87, doubles 89-109,
suites 121-141).
SPORT
Located just 200m from the centre of Postojna, and just
a 10-minute walk from the regions main attraction, the
magnicent Postojna Cave, Hotel Sport is a good accom-
modation option with clean comfortable rooms and a very
decent buet breakfast thrown in. The hotel also lives up
to its name by oering bicycle storage and rental, whilst
the friendly sta are happy to arrange guided cycling
or hiking tours in the beautiful countryside surround-
44, info@sport-hotel.si, www.epiceco-hotels.com. 38
rooms (singles 59-63, doubles 75-85, triples 103-
118, apartments 65-75).
AROUND POSTOJNA
HOTEL CASINO SAFIR
ern Hotel Casino Sar is geared towards casino goers.
Rooms oer all the modern comforts, whilst if youre
Seana, tel. +386 (0)5 731 44 44, info@safr.si, www.
safr.si. 51 rooms (singles 69-75, doubles 97-109,
suites 121-141).
MIRJAM PENZION & WELLNESS
Set just underneath one of Slovenias most unique natural
sights, the white limestone clis at the southern edge of
the Nanos plateau, Mirjam is mini resort with budget ac-
commodation in both standard guest rooms and a shared
hostel-style dormitories, as well as a small campground
with hookups for motorhomes, shower facilities and plen-
ty of space for pitching a tent. QRazdrto 19, tel. +386
(0)41 684 988/+386 (0)5 75 77 200, mirjam.pavlin@siol.
net, www.mirjam.si. Singles 35, doubles 44, dorms
12, campground 11/two persons (tent or camper).
T6FLEKDCW
WHERE TO EAT
AVIO PUB
Found just o the runway at Postojnas small recreational air-
port, theres a large garden out back where diners can watch
the planes take o and land - many of which are taking visitors
on panoramic ights. Despite the name, this place is a full-
edged pizzeria, steakhouse and wine bar, with pizzas coming
crispy and hot from a wood-red oven, steaks grilled to per-
fection and a wide selection of Slovene wine from the cellar.
From Tuesday to Friday there are multi-course lunch specials
starting from only 6. Of course the cosy wood-covered inte-
rior is very pub-like in appearance, and there are four types of
draught beer on hand for those who are thirsty.QRakitnik 1a,
Prestranek, tel. +386 (0)5 720 13 10, info@aviopub.si, www.
aviopub.si. Open 10:00-23:00, Sat-Sun and holidays 11:00-
23:00. Closed Mon. TLBS
Postojna is one of the few towns that still boasts a Tito Square - photo courtesy RDO Postojnska Jama - Zeleni Kras
Postojna
logical formations found inside the cave, and the walls
are decorated with works of acclaimed Slovene painter
Leo Vilhar.QTitov Trg 1, tel. +386 (0)8 161 0300/+386
(0)40 457 483, info@postojnska-jama.eu, www.
postojnska-jama.eu.
RESTAURANT & PIZZERIA UK
This humble restaurant and pizzeria keeps things simple
with good food and friendly service. Located on the
edge of town, uk is popular with locals and visitors alike.
On oer are a range of hearty Slovene dishes and excel-
lent wood-red pizzas as well as tasty daily specials. The
restaurant is great for families with a selection of kids
meals and a playground to occupy the little ones be-
fore or after eating. If you are staying in town and dont
feel like heading out, uk also delivers.QPot v Pivki 4,
tel. +386 (0)5 7201 300, pizzeria.cuk@siol.net, www.
pizza-cuk.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat
11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PTLV
DOLENEVI TOURIST FARM
Slovenes are a rustic down to earth bunch with many
families still growing their own veggies and producing
homemade delicacies from salami to plum brandy. The
Dolenevi tourist farm, an ecological family-run estate
10km from Postojna, is the perfect place for visitors to
experience this strong connection to the land and taste
the fruits of their labour - the homegrown and prepared
food at Dolenevi is excellent, with the house-cured pro-
sciutto and gnocchi with local game coming especially
highly recommended. The farm is located in a tranquil
forested area with great opportunities for hiking and
riding (bike rental available), and the must-see Postojna
and kocjan caves are just a short drive away.QSajeve
8, Hruevje, tel. +386 (0)5 756 20 22, dolencevi@gmx.
net, www.dolencevi.si. From 20/person, 24 with
breakfast, 34 with half-board.
Stop by Proteus Restaurant for a gourmet dining experience in the
centre of Postojna
Postojna Postojna
PROTEUS RESTAURANT
After a day spent exploring Postojnas famous cave and
other sights, treat yourself to a rst-class meal at the newly
renovated Proteus. Set in a old house that is typical for the
region, the restaurant combines the traditional and mod-
ern with homemade local cuisine served in an elegant in-
terior. Tables are separated by curtains of ne white string,
which are meant to resemble the geological formations
found inside the cave, and the walls are decorated with
works of acclaimed Slovene painter Leo Vilhar.QTitov Trg
1, tel. +386 (0)8 161 0300/+386 (0)40 457 483, info@
postojnska-jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama.eu.
with good food and friendly service. Located on the edge
of town, uk is popular with locals and visitors alike. On oer
are a range of hearty Slovene dishes and excellent wood-
red pizzas as well as tasty daily specials. The restaurant is
great for families with a selection of kids meals and a play-
ground to occupy the little ones before or after eating. If you
are staying in town and dont feel like heading out, uk also
delivers.QPot v Pivki 4, tel. +386 (0)5 7201 300, pizzeria.
cuk@siol.net, www.pizza-cuk.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00,
Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
PTLV
AROUND POSTOJNA
10km from Postojna, is the perfect place for visitors to ex-
perience this strong connection to the land and taste the
fruits of their labour - the homegrown and prepared food
at Dolenevi is excellent, with the house-cured prosciutto
and gnocchi with local game coming especially highly
recommended. The farm is located in a tranquil forested
area with great opportunities for hiking and riding (bike
rental available), and the must-see Postojna and kocjan
caves are just a short drive away.QSajeve 8, Hruevje,
tel. +386 (0)5 756 20 22, dolencevi@gmx.net, www.
dolencevi.si. From 20/person, 24 with breakfast, 34
with half-board.
MORSKI KONJIEK
Found near the town of Pivka just o the main Postojna-
Pivka-Ilirska Bistrica road (some 15 minutes south of the
A1 motorway), this sprawling countryside restaurant is a
popular stop for Slovenes and tourists after a day at the
coast. Given that its name translates seahorse in English,
its not surprising that sh and other seafood specialities
are the main focus of the menu here, but for those who
have already had their ll of such fare, there are plenty of
other dishes and some ne pizzas. For families theres a
childrens playground for a before or after dinner romp,
and for those whod like to stay for a drink or ve the place
is open till the wee hours at the weekends.QMala Pris-
tava 10, Pivka, tel. +386 (0)5 753 20 55/+386 (0)41 523
325, darija.hrvatic@telemach.net. Open 11:00-24:00, Fri
11:00-04:00, Sat 09:00-04:00, Sun 09:00-24:00. Closed
Mon except for holidays.
POSTOJNSKA JAMA
POSTOJNA CAVE (POSTOJNSKA JAMA)
The largest cave in the karst region and most visited show
cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice
to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20km of gal-
leries have been found, of which barely a fraction are open
to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up much of
a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way through
the most spectacular parts of the cave, at rst by a dinky lit-
tle narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There are no stairs
or dicult climbs along the path to or inside the cave, so
visitors with limited mobility should not have any diculties.
Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave
was discovered in the 13th century, though never properly
explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist at-
traction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among the
rst to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become that
electric lights were tted in 1884: some years before such
technology was rst deployed in Ljubljana itself.
Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites and
stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which
can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down
here are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature
of the cave is a chilly 10C, so bring a jumper. The caves are
also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphib-
ian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part
of Europe. The olms can be seen in some of the pools of
water as you make your way around the cave. Though blind
they are sensitive to ash photography and if you do spot
one you should refrain from taking any photos.QJamska
30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700
01 30, info@postojnska-jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama.
eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March tours at
10:00, 12:00 and 15:00, in April and Oct at 10:00, 12:00,
14:00 and 16:00.
PREDJAMA CASTLE (PREDJAMSKI GRAD)
Located some 10km north of Postojna is one of Europes n-
est castles. Predjama Castle (or Predjamski grad, Hhlenburg
Lueg and Castel Lueghi in Slovene, German and Italian respec-
tively), was built in a Gothic style by the Patriarch of Aquileia
sometime during the 13th century and rst mentioned in
the historical record in the year 1274. Perched under a natural
archway 123m up a sheer cli face and surrounded by a thick
stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has gained a
well-deserved reputation for being virtually impregnable.
This fact was most popularly demonstrated during the 15th
century by the more than year-long siege of Erazem Lueger,
who was a knight and the son of the Imperial governor of
Trieste, but had also a gained a reputation as a rather pro-
cient robber baron throughout the Habsburg empire. It is
said that in 1483, Erazem ed to the castle from Vienna after
killing a Marshall of the Imperial Army who had insulted one
of his friends, which brought about the wrath of Holy Roman
Emperor Frederick II, who laid siege to the castle. However,
thanks to a secret cave leading from the bowels of Predjama
to Postojna Cave and then on to the nearby village of Vipava,
Erazem was able to secure an steady supply of fresh food and
water. Unfortunately for Erazem, his luck ran out when he was
betrayed by one of his servants and unceremoniously killed
by the shot of a single canon ball while on the toilette. In the
years that followed, the castle was destroyed and rebuilt sev-
eral times, before acquiring a Renaissance style in 1570, which
has remained virtually unchanged to this day.
Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves as a mu-
seum. It has been completely restored to its original grandeur,
and among other sites visitors can see the residential quarters,
the chapel and of course the dungeon. It is also possible to see
the legendary cave below the castle, although some climb-
ing and a minimal level of tness is strongly encouraged if not
required. QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00,
fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, info@postojnska-jama.eu, www.
postojnska-jama.eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov
to March open from 10:00 to 16:00, in April and Oct from
10:00 to 17:00, in May, June and Sept from 9:00 to 18:00,
during July and Aug from 9:00 to 19:00.
Restaurant Proteus Postojna
Read more about Postojna online at
postojna.inyourpocket.com
Postojna Postojna
PROTEUS RESTAURANT
After a day spent exploring Postojnas famous cave and
other sights, treat yourself to a rst-class meal at the newly
renovated Proteus. Set in a old house that is typical for the
region, the restaurant combines the traditional and mod-
ern with homemade local cuisine served in an elegant in-
terior. Tables are separated by curtains of ne white string,
which are meant to resemble the geological formations
found inside the cave, and the walls are decorated with
works of acclaimed Slovene painter Leo Vilhar.QTitov Trg
1, tel. +386 (0)8 161 0300/+386 (0)40 457 483, info@
postojnska-jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama.eu.
with good food and friendly service. Located on the edge
of town, uk is popular with locals and visitors alike. On oer
are a range of hearty Slovene dishes and excellent wood-
red pizzas as well as tasty daily specials. The restaurant is
great for families with a selection of kids meals and a play-
ground to occupy the little ones before or after eating. If you
are staying in town and dont feel like heading out, uk also
delivers.QPot v Pivki 4, tel. +386 (0)5 7201 300, pizzeria.
cuk@siol.net, www.pizza-cuk.si. Open 10:00 - 23:00,
Fri 10:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00.
PTLV
AROUND POSTOJNA
10km from Postojna, is the perfect place for visitors to ex-
perience this strong connection to the land and taste the
fruits of their labour - the homegrown and prepared food
at Dolenevi is excellent, with the house-cured prosciutto
and gnocchi with local game coming especially highly
recommended. The farm is located in a tranquil forested
area with great opportunities for hiking and riding (bike
rental available), and the must-see Postojna and kocjan
caves are just a short drive away.QSajeve 8, Hruevje,
tel. +386 (0)5 756 20 22, dolencevi@gmx.net, www.
dolencevi.si. From 20/person, 24 with breakfast, 34
with half-board.
MORSKI KONJIEK
Found near the town of Pivka just o the main Postojna-
Pivka-Ilirska Bistrica road (some 15 minutes south of the
A1 motorway), this sprawling countryside restaurant is a
popular stop for Slovenes and tourists after a day at the
coast. Given that its name translates seahorse in English,
its not surprising that sh and other seafood specialities
are the main focus of the menu here, but for those who
have already had their ll of such fare, there are plenty of
other dishes and some ne pizzas. For families theres a
childrens playground for a before or after dinner romp,
and for those whod like to stay for a drink or ve the place
is open till the wee hours at the weekends.QMala Pris-
tava 10, Pivka, tel. +386 (0)5 753 20 55/+386 (0)41 523
325, darija.hrvatic@telemach.net. Open 11:00-24:00, Fri
11:00-04:00, Sat 09:00-04:00, Sun 09:00-24:00. Closed
Mon except for holidays.
POSTOJNSKA JAMA
POSTOJNA CAVE (POSTOJNSKA JAMA)
The largest cave in the karst region and most visited show
cave in all of Europe, words on a page can hardly do justice
to the majesty of Postojna. So far, more than 20km of gal-
leries have been found, of which barely a fraction are open
to the public. All the same, a visit here still takes up much of
a morning or an afternoon, as you make your way through
the most spectacular parts of the cave, at rst by a dinky lit-
tle narrow-gauge train, and then on foot. There are no stairs
or dicult climbs along the path to or inside the cave, so
visitors with limited mobility should not have any diculties.
Formed over millions of years by the Pivka river, the cave
was discovered in the 13th century, though never properly
explored until the early 1800s. They opened as a tourist at-
traction in 1819, with Franz I, Emperor of Austria, among the
rst to visit. Bizarrely, so popular did the caves become that
electric lights were tted in 1884: some years before such
technology was rst deployed in Ljubljana itself.
Highlights of the cave include the enormous stalactites and
stalagmites, and the quite sensational concert hall, which
can (and does) hold 10,000 people. The acoustics down
here are said to be sensational. Note that the temperature
of the cave is a chilly 10C, so bring a jumper. The caves are
also home to olms (or white salamanders), a blind amphib-
ian endemic to the subterranean waters of caves of this part
of Europe. The olms can be seen in some of the pools of
water as you make your way around the cave. Though blind
they are sensitive to ash photography and if you do spot
one you should refrain from taking any photos.QJamska
30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00, fax +386 (0)5 700
01 30, info@postojnska-jama.eu, www.postojnska-jama.
eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov to March tours at
10:00, 12:00 and 15:00, in April and Oct at 10:00, 12:00,
14:00 and 16:00.
PREDJAMA CASTLE (PREDJAMSKI GRAD)
Located some 10km north of Postojna is one of Europes n-
est castles. Predjama Castle (or Predjamski grad, Hhlenburg
Lueg and Castel Lueghi in Slovene, German and Italian respec-
tively), was built in a Gothic style by the Patriarch of Aquileia
sometime during the 13th century and rst mentioned in
the historical record in the year 1274. Perched under a natural
archway 123m up a sheer cli face and surrounded by a thick
stone wall, throughout the centuries the castle has gained a
well-deserved reputation for being virtually impregnable.
This fact was most popularly demonstrated during the 15th
century by the more than year-long siege of Erazem Lueger,
who was a knight and the son of the Imperial governor of
Trieste, but had also a gained a reputation as a rather pro-
cient robber baron throughout the Habsburg empire. It is
said that in 1483, Erazem ed to the castle from Vienna after
killing a Marshall of the Imperial Army who had insulted one
of his friends, which brought about the wrath of Holy Roman
Emperor Frederick II, who laid siege to the castle. However,
thanks to a secret cave leading from the bowels of Predjama
to Postojna Cave and then on to the nearby village of Vipava,
Erazem was able to secure an steady supply of fresh food and
water. Unfortunately for Erazem, his luck ran out when he was
betrayed by one of his servants and unceremoniously killed
by the shot of a single canon ball while on the toilette. In the
years that followed, the castle was destroyed and rebuilt sev-
eral times, before acquiring a Renaissance style in 1570, which
has remained virtually unchanged to this day.
Nowadays the castle is open to the public and serves as a mu-
seum. It has been completely restored to its original grandeur,
and among other sites visitors can see the residential quarters,
the chapel and of course the dungeon. It is also possible to see
the legendary cave below the castle, although some climb-
ing and a minimal level of tness is strongly encouraged if not
required. QJamska 30, Postojna, tel. +386 (0)5 700 01 00,
fax +386 (0)5 700 01 30, info@postojnska-jama.eu, www.
postojnska-jama.eu. Open every day, all year. From Nov
to March open from 10:00 to 16:00, in April and Oct from
10:00 to 17:00, in May, June and Sept from 9:00 to 18:00,
during July and Aug from 9:00 to 19:00.
Restaurant Proteus Postojna
Read more about Postojna online at
postojna.inyourpocket.com
Postojna Postojna
ACCOMMODATION
EPICENTRE
town, although as Postojna isnt a metropolis the loca-
tion is still walking distance to everything, and whats
more with a restaurant on the premises and a bowling
alley right next door it could be considered the epi-
centre of entertainment in town. Most importantly the
hotel provides comfortable and affordable accommo-
dation, and is especially popular with families, as half of
the rooms a fully equipped apartments. There are also
conference facilities.QKazarje 10, tel. +386 (0)5 700
22 00, booking@epicenter-on.net, www.epiceco-
hotels.com. 16 rooms, 18 apartments (singles 59-
63, doubles 75-85, triple 103-118, apartments 65-
75). PiTJLKW
KRAS
This modern hotel is located in the centre of Postojna,
just a few minutes on foot to the citys famous cave, and
near several good restaurants. The hotels caf is also
popular with locals and tourists for ice cream during
the day and drinks at night. Kras offers everything you
would expect from an upmarket hotel - spacious and
comfortable rooms with modern furnishings, a decent
continental breakfast and very friendly staff.QTraka
1, tel. +386 (0)5 700 23 00, booking@hotel-kras.si,
www.epiceco-hotels.com. 24 rooms, 3 suites (singles
71-87, doubles 89-109, suites 121-141).
SPORT
Located just 200m from the centre of Postojna,
and just a 10-minute walk from the regions main
attraction, the magnificent Postojna Cave, Hotel
Sport is a good accommodation option with clean
comfortable rooms and a very decent buf fet break-
fast thrown in. The hotel also lives up to its name
by of fering bicycle storage and rental, whilst the
friendly staf f are happy to arrange guided cycling or
hiking tours in the beautiful countryside surround-
44, info@sport-hotel.si, www.epiceco-hotels.com.
38 rooms (singles 59-63, doubles 75-85, triples
103-118, apartments 65-75).
HOTEL CASINO SAFIR
ern Hotel Casino Safir is geared towards casino goers.
Rooms offer all the modern comforts, whilst if youre
Seana, tel. +386 (0)5 731 44 44, info@safir.si, www.
safir.si. 51 rooms (singles 69-75, doubles 97-109,
suites 121-141).
MIRJAM PENZION, CAMP & WELLNESS
Set just underneath one of Slovenias most unique nat-
ural sights, the white limestone cliffs at the southern
edge of the Nanos plateau, Mirjam is mini resort with
budget accommodation in both standard guest rooms
and a shared hostel-style dormitories, as well as a small
campground with hookups for motorhomes, shower
facilities and plenty of space for pitching a tent. The
family-run place also includes billiards, a football pitch
and a swimming pool among other amenities, while a
full wellness and medical treatment centre rounds out
the offer. All in all, its a great place for cyclists, campers
and other budget travellers to break their journeys on
the way to or from the coast.QRazdrto 19, tel. +386
(0)41 684 988/+386 (0)5 75 77 200, mirjam.pavlin@
mirjam.si, www.mirjam.si. Singles 35, doubles 44,
dorms 12, campground 11/two persons (tent or
camper). iT6FLEKDCwW
Penzion, camp &
wellness Mirjam
Razdrto 19
Gsm: +386 (0)41 684 988
Telefon: +386 (0)5 75 77 200
www.mirjam.si
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Cemetery
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Ljubljana
Town wall
Motra
93
Rt Madona
Port of Piran
GULF OF PIRAN
PIRAN - PIRANO CITY
SCALE 1:6,500
0 0,04 0,08 0,12 0,16 0,02
Kilometers
Parking
Gas
Hospital Museum
Church
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Tourist Info Office Campsite
Beach
Cruise port
P
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J
N
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K
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A
M
A
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