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I n t he

Ch a rcuter ie
The Fatted Calfs Guide to Making Sausage, Salumi,
Pts, Roasts, Confits, and Other Meaty Goods

Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller

Photography by Alex Farnum

TEN SPEED PRESS

Berkeley

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C o n t en ts

Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1

2 P rovisioning the L ard er

25

Truffled Crema di Lardo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 33

1 T he Char cuti e r s Pa n try

Five Spice . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
Herbes de Provence . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 15
Preserved Meyer Lemons . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Dried Fruit in Brandy . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
The Charcutiers Wild Mushroom Duxelles . . . . . . 21
Funghi Sottolio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 22

Flaky Leaf Lard Biscuits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34

Roasted Nettle Butter Chicken
with Spring Vegetables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Basic Rich Broth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Basic Rich Roasted Broth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Pork and Duck Noodle Soup Broth . . . . . . . . . . 45
Crespelle and Chanterelle Mushrooms
in Game Bird Broth . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Creamy Semolina with Roasted Chicken Broth,
Greens, and Pecorino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49
Sausage Confit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53
Whole Duck Confit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

55

Classic Cassoulet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57

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3 In the Butch e r Sho p

61

Rabbit Porchetta . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

177

Brasato al Midolo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

178

Gingery Braised Duck Legs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

The Cuban . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181

Chopped Chicken Liver Crostini . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

Fig-and-Sausage Stuffed Quail . . . . . . . . . . .

185

Chicken-Fried Quail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
Rabbit Cacciatore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93

Pork Shoulder Pot Roast Stuffed with

Garlic, Greens, and Walnuts . . . . . . . . . . . . .

186

Five-Spice Baby Back Ribs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

109

Wild MushroomStuffed Pork Rib Roast . . . . . .

189

Chermoula-Marinated Pork Chops . . . . . . . . . .

110

Duck Stuffed with Farro, Figs, and Hazelnuts . . . .

190

Pork Bollito Misto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

117

Fennel-Dusted Pork Shoulder Steaks . . . . . . . .

119

Tonno di Maiale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

123

Pig Head Pozole . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

126

Pickled Pork Tongues . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

129

Lamb Rib Chops with Ras el Hanout . . . . . . . .

143

The Ugly Burger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

203

Goat Shoulder Birria . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

144

Duck and Lemongrass Sausage Patties . . . . . . .

204

Peposo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

151

Lamb and Herb Meatballs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

206

Rib Eye for Two . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

152

Oaxacan-Style Chorizo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

207

Carne Cruda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

154

Bockwurst . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219

Rare Roast Beef . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

157

Blood Sausage with Caramelized Apples

and Cognac . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

220

Cotechino . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

223

Belgian Beer Sausage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

224

4 S k ewe r e d, Ro lle d,
T i e d & Stuffe d

159

Pork Brochettes with Herbes de Provence . . . . . .

161

Harissa-Marinated Lamb Kebabs . . . . . . . . . .

163

Marshas Grilled Rabbit Spiedini with

Chicories, Olives, and Almonds . . . . . . . . . . . .

165

Pancetta-Wrapped Pork Tenderloin . . . . . . . . .

172

5 Sa usa ge, Sa la mi
& their Cousin s

193

Kolbsz . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 227
Hot Links . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

228

Cacciatorini . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

236

Saucisse Sec aux Herbes de Provence . . . . . . . .

237

Pepperoni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

238

Sbriciolona . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239

Pork Country Rib with Sherry, Garlic,

Thyme, and Pimentn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 175

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6 P t s: Po tt e d Me ats,
Te r r i ne s & Lo ave s
Rabbit Rillettes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

241
244

Guanciale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

298

Brown SugarCured Bacon . . . . . . . . . . . . .

300

Pastrami . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
Pulled Pork . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

307

Ciccioli . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
Oxtail Terrine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

248

Headcheese . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

249

Meat Loaf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

254

Foragers Terrine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

256

Bread and Butter Pickles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

310

Spiced Lamb Terrine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

259

Classic Cucumber Dills . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

312

Duck Terrine with Brandied Prunes . . . . . . . . .

261

Pickled Red Onion Rings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

313

Veal and Chicken Galantine . . . . . . . . . . . . .

264

Loulous Garden Sweet-and-Savory Fruits . . . . .

316

Cou Farci . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

266

Marinated Olives . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

317

Duck Liver Mousse with Armagnac Cream . . . . .

271

Root Vegetable Chowchow . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

318

Foie Gras Terrine with Madeira Gele . . . . . . . .

272

Traditional Sauerkraut . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

319

Foie Gras Torchon with Port and Quatre pices . . .

275

Cherry Mostarda . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

320

8 Accoutre ments

309

Green Tomato Chutney . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 321

7 B r i ne d , C ur e d & Smoked

277

Black Coffee and Bourbon Barbecue Sauce . . . . .

321

Chile Tomato Sauce . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

322

Horseradish Salsa Verde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

323

All-Purpose Poultry Brine . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

280

Cleri Rmoulade . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

323

Garlic Brine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

281

Simple Beans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

324

Cider-Brined Pork Porterhouse Chops . . . . . . . .

282

Cowboy Beans . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 325

Smoked Ham Hocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

284

Fagioli allUccelletto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Braised Ham Hocks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

285

Picnic Ham . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

286

Croque Monsieur . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

287

Butcher Shop Lingo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328

Choucroute Garni . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

288

Sources . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

331

Corned Beef Brisket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

290

Acknowledgments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

333

Pancetta Arrotolata . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

295

Measurement Conversion Charts . . . . . . . . . .

334

Bresaola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

297

Index . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335

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Flaky Leaf Lard Biscuits

A flaky biscuit, lightly brown and crunchy on the outside, tender, airy, and moist inside, is the
Holy Grail for bakers everywhere. Good biscuits are the culmination of using quality ingredients
in the right proportions and good techniques. The techniques are fairly simple and easy to master:
keep all of your ingredients well chilled, make sure your oven is quite hot, and dont overwork the
dough. As for the ingredients, you cant go wrong with all-natural leaf lard that youve rendered
yourself. Butter makes a good biscuit, too, but because butter begins to melt at a lower temperature than lard, any trace of water in the melting butter causes the dough to stick together, rather
than separate into thin, distinct flaky layers.

Serve these biscuits alongside Roasted Nettle Butter Chicken with Spring Vegetables (page 36),

or split them and stuff them with browned patties of breakfast sausage (page 208) or griddled slices
of Picnic Ham (page 286). M a k e s
1 pound (450 g) unbleached all-purpose
flour, plus more for rolling and shaping
the dough

1 4 t o 1 6 b i s c u i t s ( 2 1/ 2 i n c h e s / 6 c m i n d i a m e t e r )

Preheat the oven to 450F (230C). Have

ready a large ungreased baking sheet.
In a large, shallow bowl, sift

Lightly flour a sharp-edged, round

biscuit cutter about 21/2 inches (6 cm) in
diameter. Working from the outer edge

2 tablespoons baking powder

together the flour, baking powder, sugar,

of the dough toward the center, cut out

1 tablespoon sugar

and salt. Place the bowl in the refriger-

as many biscuits as possible, pressing

2 teaspoons fine sea salt

ator to chill for about 20 minutes.

straight down and lifting straight up

6 ounces (170 g) chilled leaf lard, cubed

Using a pastry blender, cut the lard

to make each cut. Lay the biscuits on

1 cup (240 ml) cold buttermilk

into the flour mixture until the mixture

the baking sheet, spacing them 1/4 inch

11/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

resembles coarse crumbs. Make a well in

(6 mm) apart. (You can gather up any

the center of the flour-lard mixture, and

scraps, press them together gently, reroll

pour the buttermilk into the well. Using

the dough once, and cut out more bis-

a fork, gradually draw the flour-lard mix-

cuits; however, this second round of

ture into the buttermilk and mix gently

biscuits usually does not rise quite as

with a fork just until incorporated.

fully as the first.)

Lightly flour a work surface and

Brush the biscuit tops with the but-

turn the dough out onto it. Knead the

ter. Bake for 6 to 7 minutes, then rotate

dough gently, just until it holds together

the pan from back to front and continue

and begins to take shape. Pat the dough

to bake for about 6 minutes longer,

gingerly into a flat disk. Smooth any

until lightly browned on top. Remove

large cracks around the edges by press-

from the oven and serve the hot biscuits

ing inward lightly. Roll out the dough an

immediately.

even 1/2 inch (12 mm) thick.

34

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G i n g e r y B r a i s e d D u c k L e gs
Although duck legs can be a bit chewy when roasted, braising renders them tender and succulent.
This comforting stew has a bold dose of ginger, a perfect foil for the richness of the duck. We generally eat this braise over egg noodles, but it can also be served over fragrant jasmine rice. Should
any duck go uneaten, the meat can be shredded the next day and folded into fried rice. S e rv e s

6 duck legs

Lay the duck legs in a baking dish large

for later use. Add the broth to the pan

1 tablespoon fine sea salt

enough to accommodate them in a single

along with the reserved marinade. Bring

1 tablespoon Five Spice (page 11)

layer. Season them on both sides with

to a slow simmer, then lower the heat

2 teaspoons sugar

the salt. In a small bowl, stir together

slightly and lid. Cook for 2 to 21/2 hours,

1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

the Five Spice, sugar, pepper, sesame oil,

until the meat is tender and begins to

1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil

soy sauce, wine, ginger, and garlic. Pour

loosen from the bone.

2 tablespoons soy sauce

the mixture over the duck legs. Roll the

2 tablespoons Shaoxing wine or dry sherry

duck legs in the marinade to coat evenly.

crisp the duck legs, preheat the oven

3 tablespoons grated fresh ginger

Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours

to 450F (230C). Outfit a roasting pan

1 tablespoon finely chopped garlic

or overnight.

with a rack, and transfer the legs from

1 tablespoon rendered duck fat

Remove the pan from the heat. To

Remove the duck from the refrigera-

the braising liquor to the rack, arrang-

tor. Heat a large, deep frying pan, saut

ing them skin side up. Blot the legs dry

Broth (page 45) or duck broth (see Basic

pan, or braiser over medium heat and

with a paper towel, then brush them

Rich Broth, page 44)

add the duck fat. As the fat melts, tilt

liberally with the saved cooking fat.

the pan to coat it evenly with the fat.

(Reserve any remaining fat for sauting

To Serve

Remove the duck legs from the mari-

or stir-frying vegetables.) Place the legs

1 pound (450 g) fresh Chinese egg noodles,

nade, reserving the marinade, and pat

in the oven and roast for about 10 min-

the legs dry. Place the legs, skin side

utes, until brown and crisp.

8 cups (2 L) Pork and Duck Noodle Soup

cooked according to package directions

1 cup (100 g) thinly sliced green onions

down, in the hot pan and cook slowly to

11/2 cups (150 g) bean sprouts

brown the skin and render some of its

Divide the cooked noodles evenly among

1 cup (15 g) fresh cilantro leaves

fat. When the skin is a deep gold, turn

large, deep individual soup bowls. Add

the legs and continue to brown on the

enough braising liquor to each bowl

meat side for 2 to 3 minutes.

just to cover the noodles. Rest a crispy

Tilt the pan and ladle off as much of

the cooking fat as possible. Save this fat

In the Butcher Shop

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To serve, heat the braising liquor.

duck leg in each bowl. Garnish with the

green onions, bean sprouts, and cilantro.

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Basic Rich Broth

A basic rich white (unroasted) broth is infinitely versatile, providing a neutral foundation for soups,
braises, sauces, and the like. This broth can be made with any one type of bones, or you can try
combining different types of poultry or poultry and pork. Before you begin, review the step-by-step
Basic Broth Making directions on page 42. Makes
12 pounds (5.5 kg) meaty bones (such as

about 6 quarts (5.7 L)

pletely. Place the stockpot over medium-

poultry or about 7 hours for beef, pork,

poultry, game bird, rabbit, pork, beef,

high heat and bring to a gentle simmer.

or lamb, tasting every hour or so to

or lamb), cut into about 3-inch (7.5 cm)

Lower the heat until you achieve a lazy

monitor the flavor development.

pieces

bubble. Using a ladle, skim off the froth

1 teaspoon fine sea salt, or more to taste

Aromatics (optional)

as it accumulates on the surface.

After the first hour of simmering,

Strain the finished broth first

through a colander and then through a
chinois or other fine-mesh sieve. Pour

add the 1 teaspoon salt. If you will be

into 1- or 2-quart (1 or 2 L) containers,

Rinse the bones under cold running

adding aromatics, they can be added

cool down in the refrigerator, and then

water and place in a large stockpot.

any time between now and the last hour

cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days or

Add cold water to cover the bones com-

of cooking. Simmer for 5 to 6 hours for

freeze for up to 3 months.

Basic Rich Roasted Broth

Roasting the bones before simmering them produces an amber broth with a rich roasted flavor.
You can use any single type of bones or a combination of different types of bones you like, but we
especially like to use duck bones or a combination of quail, squab, and guinea hen or other game
birds to make this earthy, nuanced broth. Before you begin, review the step-by-step Basic Broth
Making directions on page 42. M a k e s
12 pounds (5.5 kg) meaty bones (such as

about 6 quarts (5.7 L)

take from 45 minutes to over 1 hour.

any time between now and the last hour

poultry, game bird, rabbit, pork, beef, or

Remove the pan from the oven and trans-

of cooking. Simmer for 5 to 6 hours for

lamb, or a combination), cut into about

fer the bones to a large stockpot.

poultry or about 7 hours for beef, pork,

3-inch (7.5 cm) pieces

Add cold water to cover the bones

1 teaspoon fine sea salt, or more to taste

completely. Place the stockpot over

Aromatics (optional)

medium-high heat and bring to a gentle

or lamb, tasting every hour or so to

monitor the flavor development.
Strain the finished broth first

simmer. Lower the heat until you achieve

through a colander and then through a

Preheat the oven to 425F (220C).

a lazy bubble. Using a ladle, skim off the

chinois or other fine-mesh sieve. Pour

Spread the prepared bones in a single

froth as it accumulates on the surface.

into 1- or 2-quart (1 or 2 L) containers,

After the first hour of simmering,

cool down in the refrigerator, and then

layer, without crowding, in a roasting pan

or heavy baking sheet. Roast the bones

add the 1 teaspoon salt. If you will be

cover and refrigerate for up to 5 days or

until they are a golden brown. This can

adding aromatics, they can be added

freeze for up to 3 months.

44

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Copyright 2013 by Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller

Photographs copyright 2013 by Alex Farnum
All rights reserved.
Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of the
Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.
www.crownpublishing.com
www.tenspeed.com
Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon are registered trademarks of Random House, Inc.
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data
Boetticher, Taylor.
In the charcuterie : the Fatted Calfs guide to making sausage, salumi, pates, roasts, confits, and
other meaty goods / Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller ; photography by Alex Farnum.
First edition.
pages cm
1. MeatPreservation. 2. Sausages. 3. Cooking (Sausages) 4. Cooking (Meat)
I. Miller, Toponia. II. Title.
TX612.M4B64 2013
641.36dc23
2013011202
Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-60774-343-9
eBook ISBN: 978-1-60774-344-6
Printed in China
Design by Betsy Stromberg
Food and prop styling by Christine Wolheim
10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
First Edition

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