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.L.I1U .LU :~.lL..t:AJ.....

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he French writer Guy de livered at the Inlerior Ministry,


Mllupaasant described the "Karabasehi's detention is aimed at
chador, the black head-to­ puttin~ pre~sure on the j£O....ernment of
toe garment prescribed by Pre~ident Khatami and weakening it,"

~
trac-ition for Islamic f~ she thundered, "Karbasehi has been a
males, OLe "de:uh out for II member of !he Cabinet and cannot be
walk....• Only the most reli­ detained without the eoorc1ination of the
pous wear it now, :md by ministers and the president."
birth, Faczeh Hashemi­ Like the mayor, Hashemi is a mem­
Iran's most visible and eon­ b"r of the Suvants of Reconstruction., a
trovenial woman-is both. group that opposes extremism. She is a

~ Yet Hashemi's chador naps woman whom Westerners might label

~ oyer blue jeans, a red shirt; and muddy her a bridge to the futurc. But she also

-,. ridin. boots.. "! always try to wear prCSllll:c:5 the second gencration of the

., 'IJ son1ethin&, bri,ht underneath," she tells re....olulion and the milder, l=u repressive

'me, specifYing sneakers or "something leadership which its less fanatic and
red." The juxtap... ~jtion is a bit neat. Per­ most forward-thinking architects envi­
haps she thinks i. important to dress up sioned as inc:vitable with tiT':le.
for the Western media. Perhaps she is
riKht. aezeh Hashemi became one of 13
"I like to do whatever I'm told that I
cannot do," Hashemi says. Her Ericsson
cdl phone plays ',,," Shave an&-. Haircut,
~
M \.
F women in Iran's 270-sO:/lt parliament
following a hugely su(·"essful 1996
campaign in whicl1 she ""..s widely bll>
Two Bits" when ,t rings~nd!ller ehador_ ""'i,,~ Iieved to ha....e received mu~e voles than
whips in tho ",in.;i~nge.Yetshe isl I \~_ L even the governing body's very promi­
the revolution'sr.ug!ltet', and'that's parr ~JC4.l\ (XlUL nent spe:sker, Ali Akbar Nl :.:q-Nouri, a

~~~;. reaso ~~db~r.


'oI!IICl-.~
',' .~,
conservative who would c,-j:Jose Khata­
S:1e can a!Tord to bc so mi in the presidential elt ttion the fol­
lowing year.

n Apri 4, Inm returned to the news '?::~. BUI Hashemi's popular;t>, at this time,

Oin&
as u: sions erupted between moder-
ate d repressive factions of the rul-
ic regime. The government's
seems mainly an elCtenslon of her fll­

lh.:r'~, a point which some r.ight see u a

sli~1 to Hashemi's feminist pride. In the

Hez lIah guards patrolled Teheran, Middle East, however, familial dynasties

wher thoroughfares once carried the arc common and help stabilize tho ever /'j

nlim s of Churchill and Roosevelt. -' ehllnginlit political mix. Power is passed l
e conflict beJ;an when the city's on I iice land. As is the case with Palc... ".
marOt, Oholamhosscin Karabaschi, a istan's BenllZir Bhutto, whose career has / ~~" ..
$ymbol of reform. wu hastily impris­ been inc:Atricably linked '" suspicions •
II;
oned on charges of embezzlement llnd sUIToundinll: her family'. plltriareh,
c~rruPIion, and denied counsel. Thou­ Hashemi cannot detach herself from her
sands of demonstrators clashed while
Iran's supreme: spiritual leader. Ayatol.
64-year-old father's legacy She haa no
need to. Rafsanjani, neither pacifist nor \
.'i'"
lah Khamenei, traded words wilh mod­ blood-thirsty, is a white-turbaned cleric n
'crate presidellt Mohammed Khatami. It (meanin~ that lei a direct jlellCcndent t•
was the most p ... blic eonf"ontation since o rophel, Mohammt.dl RaflUlS,II'I-/
the revolution which in 1979 swept the Jill1i survived because his more violent aI­
foreign appellations from the deposed lies recolI\nized his devotion to the revo­
Shah's avenUes and elevated the late Ay­ lution and because they ne:ded a. techno- ~
atollah Khon1eini to absolute power in a .:ral to hand~,:.~fidc::lsrdashemjmay ,
.. Go....ernment 01" God."
The mayor found ~upport from

be simiiarlY~ *..<..t- p( ' .


H.a.shemi, & (c1101~
Ppearances :>re erut.;a1 I . politicians.
an who
Faezch • d"ulUtter 0
ever hidd"" her face:­
onner ranlan
prc.sident Ali Akbar Rafsanjani. (Some
A More so for Hashemi. ~Jolnen in her
eounuy arc not ~upposed to reveal
their rae.:s to strangers. and reporters
married womcn in Iran maintain their are askcd to refrotin from providinc
maiden names 'mel pass them to their phy.ieal descriptions of female subjects.
dau&/1ters.) Huheml wo 16 when Lut yc:::sr, however, Hashemi po.cd for
i 1 Khomelni appointed Rllfsunjllni to the the cover of Zanun (Wom:n)' magazine

First Revolutionary Council, Now, at wearing a. herrincbone scarf under her

35. she Is har father's political heir. Two chador with her face clearly visible, Her
days after the mayor's arrest, Hashemi rebellions Ill&ainst many of the customs
spranjt to his defense with a speech de- that 'lovern her ~ are tolerated be­
NOTES:

causc ~,/lr father has earned broad-based Knowledge and e"posure:,


respeel ano because some Iranian lead­
ers see the need for jp'oomina: advocates
palataUe to the West.
2 Muandaran. in northern Iran. is
beautiful, but car.'ricious. ,." Hashemi
Ii"i.hes. we h:ar of a mow.tonn
N .. arly 20 years after fundamentalists squall in&: amonH the purple ceowns of
tOOK -56 Americans hostage inside the Elburz MOlJ,uains, which surround
Teheran's U.S. Embassy and held S2 of the routes to Teheran. The l:;overnor
them for 444 days, tlle Unitcd Stiltes is bends down to \Jh.ere we sit amid Per­
involv.:d in an intricate pas de deux with sian carpc\$, J' eets, and flowers to
the nation that WIUl once its hu'geit trad­ break the newl that the roads fire im­
inl partner. In February, Iran received a passable. "It i~ /fttlZah." he declares,
U.S. wrestling team for ;L pre-World meaning terrible. Thrce hundred cars, he
Cup meet. The Americans. who had claims, are blocked on the Firouz-Kouh,
come in bearing their flaa:, heard joyous road.
huzzans from the 12,000 fans as one "How do you·\(now7" Faezeh asks in
waved the Iranian flag and another held the ~harl' tone \,r a woman exasperated
a pkture of the supreme leader. There with the servants.
may be further developments. Detente, '"The police: !'adio," he says. "The DO­
economically a.dvantageous for both li"" are sayinj; you should nor go,"
parti.,~. is posiible because of the pres­ "I think ""'" should walle," Faez;eh
enc;e of Khatami, who was elected by a says, triumphantly itringinl:; to&:ether bils
land'lide in 1997. of Enalish. "0" you agree to walk?"
Khatami, however. has not transc;end. Her vita) it:'( i. well known, even
cd (, ,e hard-line infrastn.cturc. Irlln re­ among; the ma:;·r,u of children who .u....
m;a.i1. an exportcr of terrorism and round us, clar"orin& for her autograph.
play'~ a role in the maintenance of Fostered by bu association ..... ith athlet.­
licz\·oHah in Lebanon as well as the ics, it is pan c,f the myth that has grown
mUI tier of dissidents abroad. And Q;1Ch up around he-r. People say that Hashe­
day, at hOlne. ri&ht-wing cons,,~v.\l;ve. mi, who is tin.ess llnd sleeps only a rew
hit "aCK at reform c:fforLs-p.using re­ hours Ii night t>rings a charge of eltcite­
pressive laws direeted at women or jail­ ",ent lO everYlhing. ("Faezeh equals ex­
in¥ dissident clerics. citement," say; her mother. whose En­
Export~ agree, however. that it will be l:lish rcflects a familiarity with Ameri­
hard for Iran's most ri&:id theocrat.~ to can advertis;n j copy.) Yet this. volatility
maintain its fraying, repressive stric­ has disadvantages. Hashemi wil1 stay up
tures. Sin~ the: revolution, the counlry'~ until dawn working on schemes to help
population has swelled to 72 million, the poor, has been known to arrana:e
and half of the nation is under the age impromptu volleyball games llt mid­
of .21. They want freedom, computers, night, a.nd loves to drive alone in the
Oprah! Moderate Islamic leaclerll s"e the wee hours at.rou~ bacJcstreets often
youn&, and women, as a\lies in cU"bing
fanaticiim. FlLeZeh Hash~j-brash, out-
sp;,ken, I;Utsy-is the(fi0PcV0r the talk-
b1\ I
II ~tfJr
..voided. But she misses appointments
scheduled for civilized hours and is diffi­
cult to c:onlll<n, schedule, or predict.
show generation and- the enlighte:nctl The &ovc:rnor learns this.
0\:\ Guard. Absorbed :.,)' the siaJtt of a nine-year­
old 2irl in " red karate outfit break;n!:
aezeh always ran ahead of me. fast. boards with her hand, Faezch seems not

F :m the day last wintcr when we trav­


eled to the province or Mazand,trIUl.
Her seven SLOPS incJudc:d a llporU ell"'­
to hear, then turns to shoot the governor
a wichering look. The crowd chants
"Hashemi. Huhemi:' A sheep has been
piex to be: inaugurated, a muddy patch ~Iaughlc:red "h"r honor. She just wanti'
of ground in nc:"d or br....kint!. and a to get movir. g.
gymnaaium. Hashemi. who used the rei­ "Ther.. is a night lrain leavin&: from I
a<jvely unlhreate:nina arena of women's Sari," says Ihe governor, "which will get[
athletics as the vehicle for her entry into you back to: Teheran in 12. hours."
public life. has made the lielt! her do­
main. It is a na.tura! fit; her tomboy fem­
' -
AI;L
J~
Hashemi dials home on the Eriesaon..
Hl;r children want her homo IWW,
Mrs. Bal'mlUlpour. Fa.ah's cJref dIM
inism is more instinctual than theoreti­
cal. And l,er sports affiliation h"" other
a.dvantaaes. Every four yean since 1992
<f;
~r' ~ cabillf:l. leans over. She's 44, a lively bill-c
sister type who once ran a sharpshoOlen
l
~
she has helped stage the Islamie Coun­ ' school for girls, and she !mows how te:
tries Women's Sports Games. in whieh to,1 aim her appeal. "On the train, you
.2.2 countries compete. Clearly, the role (l / could get more work done than in lhll
"­ ----.. .­ #'n.cWtJAr hfltr ;''I'u~rnnr;onaJ t,J:J car," she ".dvises_ "You eould go ove:

'
."";': ..7 -:'":':~ - _.• - - .. ..-..-. .....=..A.._~.QIIU U t u,
...,vvv

j I

yo~r lettCT$:' 1:.!.!o<~~

On the train, Hashemi sits. chador


unwrapped, craclcing pumpkin seeda be­
tween her teeth. "Ask me anything you
3 Karabaschi-who has lor.1 down slums,
added green spaces, authorized 24-hour
supermilJ"keu-by Chief Judge Ayatollah
want," she dares me. '" will answer it," YaZdi, a cleric close to the supreme

- "A,re you a rebel?"


," lUn not by nature II. conservative
person," she replie.~. "I thrive on change
and excitement. I need it. Actually, I
think J'd &et sick without it. My mother
lellder, the bauari merchant classes. and
other conser"atiws.
"The right wing." alle£.ed Huhemi in
her speech at the Interior Ministry, "i.
trying to weaken the government. 1 de­

I J
complains constantly that I'm neglect­ mand that Ayatollah Yazdi not politicize
ing my husband and children. but I've ~ the jUdiciary'" Rai.anjan; supported his
spent cno~Bh time with them." daughter's personal insurrection. servin&
At 16, Hashemi was married, by f.rcl\l' II.li ~o.bctween among the warrini par­
arrll11lloment, to NAME TK, the son or I I· ties a.~ Hashemi gavl; Interviellls and ral­
Oln_yatQ1)ah named Lahouti. She de-
scribes the union as comfortable, but
she and her husba.nd, II. psychiatrist,
don't socialize tolitether and, except (01'
7 httVlDIl t,
L.sh K..( \/6\1:

lied the: Illoderates on television.


She will not be silenced. "If they can
put KlI.rabaschi in pri.on." she tells me,
"lhey can put anyone in prison. I hope
family vacations, .eem to lell.d separate
th.. "ight wing &ets a lesson from this
Iives. This doesn't appear to bother her.
and the people's reaction."
"I don't li1:e bein¥ bound by tradi­ Despite its self-serving components,
tion. and customs:· .he: continue:s~ u e.. Faezch's pcrronnance was stunning.
peciaJly alles, 1 think arc only conven· Rowing to pressure from Khatami, Raf­
tions. For example, my family believes a 5:anjani, and Hashemi, me supreme
woman should not drive alone, but I al­ leader relei1.~ed the prisoner on April 15.
way. do. 1 never use the chauffeur my After pelting him with nower., his sup­
brothers or si~ter do. I hut., bodYi:Ual'ds. porters held aloft a IO-foot-hi,h mural
If you do what they say once, you lIIil1 or his likeness. Faezeh was given hcr
always be doin~ what they say," she in­ share or the credit. A 1m ge share.
sists, grillllin& and pitching another shell "She is the rcal gene, the real child of
to th~ floor. "My mother says, 'Paezeh RafsaT\iani," says Shahrz.a.d Esfe.rJani,
is CTllZY.- .., whose advertisini1 ageDwY de$igned the
Others w<'uld modify that descrip­ lo~o for Huhemi's Islamic pmes.
tion-slightly. "She comes like a wa"o "When "he makes up her mind, she's
on the beach," says Shahla Sherlcat, bold and courllgeous IIbout it. And I
Zarzan's editor, "and like the wave, she's thinlc she shares that wim her fathc:r:'
gone. There arc people who, by nature,
lire hyperactive and malee those around Ut she has detractors. The right-wina

them tired.. Faezeh has a remarkably


healthY personality for someone quite
sheltered-a fun and excitin¥ personll1ity.
B press despises Hashemi. "Who's that

bicyele-ritling, boot_caring SPOTts


person in blue jeans'" demanded one
She doesn't feel she owes anyone any­ paper in a caption under a Jess than
thing, and it makes her less inhibited. rlattering cartoon emphasizina Ruhe­
"One could wish sbo: were more at­ mi's moutn_
tentive:' Sherlcat continue., "that she Even nonconservatives cite her undi...
followed through. One could wish sho: ciplined ways. Hashcmi's auendance in
had a plan, a modality for change. a. parliament is the worst of all female
real organiu.tion. She should get advis­ M.P.'s. and she has dl·...wn the wrath of
ers who arc skilled ... adept. I don't feminist.~ who work uncler excruciating
think .he has real political power." constraints. "An lsJamic yuppie," snorts
Women generally-Hashemi particu­ a fo:male activist. Another elaborates:
larly-found themselves UlrgelS in the "Her "bil iLy not to pvc: attention to oth­
wave of ilnti-Khatami activity whieh eul. er people's judlPllents and do wha.t she
minated in the mayor's aTTest. Tn April. wants obviously has many positives,"
aller Hashc:mi's Zanan Cover, the Iran­ says this obler"er, "but it brings with it
illn puliament banned wornen's pictures an unreliable carelessn!'ss,"
from the covel'S or magazines and "I~'l Ha.hemi livc:s by her rules, but hers
voted to .;;&iSkUc~ s"'llregaticlJ .... is the indilTerencc: of ':1. woman whose
hospitals by sex. Of the 13 women In confidence has been nourished by
parlill.ment, .2 voted against the new reg­ wealth and her proximity to power. ~
ulations. One wa.~ Hashemi. "I ilm our train rocked through the mountain
again.t both," she said, proclaiming the pll.$ses, she spoke of :rowing up as me
revolution's future at stake. second-oldest girl in her r...mily. (Two of

II
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NOTES;

her brothers arc older, one is younger. ference. Constructive criticism J have
Her sister, Fatimeh, is an adviscer in the
foreign ministry.) Dc.pite the f.mily's
se~rity, hcr view of her nation's politi.
4
nothing Ilgain.t-maybe it leads to
growth IiOd <!evelopment."

c:al reality war unobstructed. Por milch he last thing J see thltt ni&hl, before
of Hashemi', childhood. R:afSllnjani was
in pri.on for subversive political activity.
Because she is strong enoua:h to bear
T Kttling down to sleep, is HlIShemi.
across the aisle on a top bunk. We
lire nearin. the close of a 20-hour day,
the risk of Il similar fate, Hashemi COIn and the lisht is dim. bllt as I turn over I
seem oblivious to the Iimitatiolls which sec that my .ubjce:t is studying her not&- "'<;;.;
hamper other women. And her protesta­ booles.. She has the devotion of a nun i'I
tions of independence can sua.gest a and th~endUrance of an old-style Bol. ~v •
,elf-dramatizing dilettante, "J'm not lilee shevik but her existence appears to bc
the other member. of my family," she based imme~iatc action rather than
tells me. "About 10 yelirs .ao, when my contemplation. -'
dauBhter WIIS four, ! wanted to take the In the mornmg, F~ch sit. cross­

ClIl' and go on It trip by myself, but my legged on her bunk in her socles, still

one else to leave the house or .0


family objected. So J wltited for every.
to bed,
and I pac:ked. I packed up my dau&hter
studying her notebooks. She will not be

deterred. When the train stops. me

~abs her cbador, covers up, and waills

too. I drove to where r WlIntod to go, to join tho river of black cddying

lIlnd when I got there. J called my family throush the gra.y liibt of the ercaley

and told them where I was and not to train's corridor.

dare come lifter me. And thllt wu It."


She sees no contradiction in the flict ashemi is a conundrum for Iranian

that she remains a dutiful Js/amic dliugh­


ter, fiercely loyal to Rafsanjani, who, she
emphasiZQ, has alwa.ys refrained from
H political anaJyJ;t Fllrideh Farhi. "The

problem," she contends. "is that

Fac:zch just doesn't know from the reali­

Alllcing her to asked her to modi/)' her ty of women's lives. We have enormous

opinions. "My father," she says, "has problems under Islamic law. But FOlezeh

never tried to pUll me down. He hqn'l doesn't s<:em interested. She leads this

given me verbal encouragement-praise jazzy life, the lire or lin upwardly mobile

U not really in his vocabUlary. But he Muslim who want. to do more, but &oes

hun't stopped me... It's not like J call about it rlldler c1ueless/y. Her interest is

hin, evcry morning to see if he approves in sports, and that doesn't let you know

of mc or not. But I dOn't need to. I about difficult livcs. She doesn't know

lenow what he bel ieves-we taJk politics what it's like to be physically at risk

endlessly. Jr there's a case where we di.. from mo"e relatives,

auee, I will try to persuadc him. Rut in "But," Farhi adds, "I think she d~

the end ! will follow his view.. He's a two things that are very important.

.skilled statesman, not just my father." Number one, she holdly and publicly

LAn to her own devices, the: impul­ SpC.1lc:s her mind, and that i. something

sive Hashemi crellte.s.in a word, b\12Z, It rare here. Secondly, lilee Khatami. she

WIUl she who sl.Iuested thllt there was otrcrs a possibility of reeonc:iJilltion be­

no reason for Iranian women not to ride tlNCen the dilTerent sectors of this divid­

bicycle•. Or run for the presidenC)'_ (The ed society,"

laUer remarle made front pqes in Iran.) Lllter I try to address Farhi'. points

But there are those who believe that she with Huhemi as she wraps It birthday

tries, too consc:iously. to ¥rab Ilttention. gift for her 14-year-old daughter, Mona.

Says one young woman, "Ifshe's will­ "These women," I beJ:in, "seem to want

in&: to &et C:litic:ism for supportina wom­ you to be more of a bridge between the

en riding bic:yc:les, she oughl to be will­ classes on feminist issues."

ing to get criticism for things which llre "A brid~," rcpeats Hashemi, who

much more important," Some who label does nor hesitate berore announcin.,

Huhemi an opportunist with a political "Let them come overl"

pme plan say lhat other. havc worked But before long .ho returns to the di­
hUder to improve the lives of women in alogue, somewhl&t hesitantly. "Maybe I.
~. JrlUl_nd .utTered more dan~erous gov­ have made Il mistake," sh~ bcgil}s. She
ernment hara..ment. seems 10 give in to,' or at least consider,
reI don't worry about bcing Iltlllckcd," the notiol1 that shc hu been a less than
Fa~h SIlYS as the train cuts through c1Teetive eonduJt between women divid­
smoky landscapes and little hill towns, ed by c1us, Then, rather Quickly, she ex­
"If something I do isn'tcritic:izecl, then plains what is, for her, an important
it probably uo't making enou&h of a dif- complication_ "Some of these people

~'"
I'


TBU 11.: 32 FAX 21ll 88Q 0707

=1/

are known to bc in the opposition," she At onc A.M., not nearly finished,
says flatly. HI C,"\J~not be wilh th~m, be­
cal,110 it would dliftl8i. my repulalion."
I ch.ns~ th~ lIubject to Khatilmi, for
5
Huhemi came into the kitchen for food
and sat on the [loor. Shc looked weary,
but not ellhausled. "1 (Olel badly when J
wbom she campai~'Ded in places where cannot help th..m, when what they nced
1D0lI~ of his male llllic:s feued to ven­ is beyond my powcr," she said. And
ture, namely the homctown of Now!. then $he rcturned, determlncdly, to the
. There were rumors that shc was at­ people.
tadtcd there, but lIhe denies this. "Look." says Shahrzad EsfaIjani,
A.fter Khatami's stunning victory, "Faezeh's not a masician. When she ran
most obscrver.. bclievcd hc would ap­ for parliament. every woman 1 know
point alUh~mi to his Cabinet. Khlltami vowd for her. She's opcn, she's tolerant.
nam~d Mauoumch Ebtekar as vicc She COI",c.r in here and wc're: playini Pat
president of the environment. Faezc:h Methcny lind she doesn't fall down in a
denics that she oevcr wanted It pillce in lit. She knows I'm not her type of rcli­
the Cabinet. IPOWI Muslim. but w~ liked eaQh other
"I WIUI thrilled wh~n he won:' she immediately. Wl!l talked a lot about bel'
says, "especially by such a marj"oin-70 run for office, she had 25 campaign of­
pcreent of th~ vote. But I never had an fices. She hardly believed she'd be elcct­
idea that Khatami would givc me a job ed; now she's trying to lUOW into the
because T eampai~ncd for him.... We job. She is tryin, to improve hoeuelr."
met three times soon afler the cleClioll,
and three times he started to lhanle me. portrait of Faczeh Hashemi is at least
J always changed the subject. If 1 joined
hi.- Cabinct, l'd have to givc up parl of
nlY independence. And I cherish my in­ '\""> n A part Ru.rhumon. Thc truth she revea/s
about herselr is d~pendcnlo upon tim­
inc, territory, and her audience. In a r~
dependence." "'T.t.~ ~ cent !ranit\O <!weUJilC2ifii'f:y. Burrv.yeh 0"
There were lIppM'enlly olher factors
Involved. "1 dOLlblo Kllatarni would ever
r I
,-\~
·l/ibhtlshz (Lady of MllY). she is fcatured
in a section whero Iranian women lire
have considered her for a position of interviewed about the laws that rul..s
power:' says one dose observer. "They them. "-m.. law;. line," shc tells the
have eomplctc/y oppo"ire personaJiti~•. c.a.mera. "It is the enforcem~nt of the
He's reflcctivc and dcep ... totally cau­ 11LW thal hilS problems, lind lhat's be­
tious. And FlleZch ill fast, quick, super­ GUuse of the rulina culture in the society.
fieill1. Khauul1i ClInnot ....orlc with loose The judges Ue men and can't under­

cannon.... ~tand the worn ell'S situation." At my

screcnln¥, hoot/IIi fOllowcd Hashemi's

e.plte the charges of bc;r superficillli­ defcnse of the I"w.

O ty, Ha.shemi re,wuly holdS nlara~bon


scsslons with the mQStuzu./fll, or disin­
h'erited. It is a mi.ion lnuch in 1l:ccplu¥
But 011 another evening, not long af­

ter that experience, we set out in Hashe­

mi's battered bl'r&Undy Puegol on one

with her flither's association with the lie­ of the night drives that she enjoys so

tivln branch of Islam, the: strain associ­ much. TO.lethcr, racina: put tall

;Iled wittl the marlyr HOlliain. who re­ sycamorcs, we venturcd down Teheran's

belled .,aiDst injustice. Once a month. winding slreets and curving alleyways

at a drab housc in southcrn Tehcran, the and over }u"""~th.. waterways (rom the

disadvantaged present hcr with peti­ mountains that line each major thor­

tionll. ou&hfare. Pineapple-shaped bl,llbs muk­

I visited one night, arriVing aftcl' 10 in,l the hajj festi"'" lights in all colors
P.M. She had been there since dawn. hung (rom b\lildin,ls in direct c:ontrast

Hundreds waited lO sec her. the women lo the yellr-rol'nd p'cen neon which .ia:­

huddled on the (loor. in one big room. nalsthe omnipreSence of Islam. Speak­

and ~he men in Ilnother. Onc of the for­ inc privately, Faczeh lldmitted that there

mcr had come 500 kilometers (TK lire plenty of thing.• wrolli with the laws

miles) to s.e Hallhemi, who distributes lhat ~vern lif.. in Irlln.

infoonation, dlsPlltcnes letters of recom­ "There: are two kinds of Islamic:

mendalion, ilnd dircou petitioners to laws," she said, her fliee nCMly invisible
Illwyers. She is a Whirlwind of advice. '" in the darkness. "Basic principles in the
have nevcr come herc alld nOl been Koran, which says there is one 00<1. lif~
hCllped," onc woman said. Another di.t­ aftcr death, and '0 on. Thelle can be
aareed, explaiDing, "I aot one of Mrs. c:hanged. But the soecond grou :' s e
Huhc:ml', letter' for my hu,band \he continued as she as she executed a hair
Ias~ time he:: nCClcled work. But it didn't raising turn, "arc lohose which can be
do muc:h." adapted to modem times.
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'.:
"For cxamplc," she WIlDt on, warm­ of people. But I have a special respect
ing to the: sUbjc.:t, "Illko the custody law,
in which sirls CO to their (athcrs (rom
the age of seven and boys from the lise
6 for the cultural aspects o{ poets, musi­
CilUls, filmmalcer., and all kinds of
artists," Ha.shemi tells me a(teT refusing
of two. Reeelllly we had the case of a to elahorate on til" Kiarostal11i situatioll.
nine-year-old eirl whose father, the cus­ WNot only aTe they a kind of interna­
todial parent, died. She Went not to her tional people, but they analy~ our situz.­
mother but her vandfathor, who Spent tion in Iran, Illld maybe, sometimes, this
all her inheritance and sold her proper­ is correct."
ty. r kept thinkioll:, Why could she not Hashemi's favorite recent IiIm is The
&0 LO the: mother, who llurely would SnDlv"'~fJ. the talc of a man who dresses
have loved her more?" Hashel'l'li'll voice liS a wOlnan ro escape Iran for the U.S.
grows more emphatic. "IsllU'l'l was not In the end, aner hc falls in love with an
intended (or 1,400 years ago. We believe actual female:, he sheds his persona,
it is for ~JI time. and 'the laws should be marrie., and returns home. "It's about
inl.erpreted according/y." finding your idenLity," sa.ys the director,
"So why don't you do something ill Ollvoud Mirbaqeri. "It'. (or a person
parliament," I ask, rather nlli"vely. who has lost the concept of identity and
"It i. very dimcult," she says, sighing. is searc:hinl for the lnJe one."
"II's goin& to take a lot of strong r .. :i\<­ Mirbaqeri was onc ot about 200
soningand power bllCkcd by the Ishunic artists and others recently hODor~d by
philosophers. SOOlO. of these laws have Hashemi in the splendid confines of the
bOC:omc a trlldition-we think they're I~ President'S Club, a bellutiful marble,
lamic but they're not; Lhey'ro outd~ted c:handelier~it plllace built by the Shl'lh.
t,...dition~." Men and women ate f~:I't!nj"n with
Huhemi is eauilu-torn between lamb, pomegranate, IUld walnuts, and
what she can say on-ellmer/l llnd what drank Parsi cola. Hashemi presented ~~I
she can say priwtely, beLween her com­ Mohammed Bei~deh. the choreogra­
mitment to blnm and the revolution and pher of a bllll.,t mildc for her Islamic
to her own desires, betwol!:n the realiLie8 g.ames, with 11 sculpLed horse. "This be- ~
of Iranian politics and American dol­ lonas Lo flw!ryone." she: told him, "So ~'"
Jlirs, between che past And what is to you sho...ld put it where everyone C:lln
come, between the: expcclluions thlit <!t­ Sl:e ir:' Obviously, .h.. wanted the selllp­
Lend her position liS Rlif$al\i~ni'.. dlLull:'" lUre Lo send II me:isage, to inspire.
ter lind the myriad or identities and pos­ "She'$ brave," he said. "Look at the ~
sibil iti.., thl:Lt boc:kon between her ballet we did. We're not supposed to do ~
chador aod dungllrees. The flice she that in Iran-dance is considered un- ~
sho~ to the world must be presentable Islamic. t don't len ow how inlportant \:
(rom many complicated angles, and sh~ artistic rrecdom is for people in the \."~
must always be conscious o( those who West, but for US it's our one way of \.~ '{
surround her who would prefc:r not. to sp~lIkin,g the trurh." ~~
seo it a.ll. Hor aC;tiollS m~st he axq\lisito­
Jy clllibraced: sometimes ll.ll bold liS her ashcnli lives in one o{ the hilly, srae:c- ~
opposition to the mayor's arrest, other ful neiahborhoods o( North Teheran. \:i
times more SUbtle. With the complexi­ "The people here are apolitical," she I
ties she must confront, no wonder she tellll me apolOll:etic:aIly liS sh.. lets me ~ "
rebels against .the schedule and the trivia into her home. "I (eel more comfortable "~
that J:overn simple lives. with
" the poor, Whenever ll-nything has .... ~ ~
Last year Hashemi rcponetlly helped happened to tbrellten the revolution, it's ~
Tenowued director Abba.:; Killro.~tami ar­ been the deprived people, Ihc relatives
ter the ~ovornment IIltcmpted to prevenL or th", martyr', who've come to our aid. \"
his film Tusr~ of ChC:TI1J rron\ boin, So r feel extra badly whl!:n martyrs' rela- ~ \
screcned llt Cannes. "I lN~nt to her and lives come to me And I Cl'lnnot help." ~
told h ..r," Baid a cOI\ccrncd party. "Lhllt She invite:s me to look around her ~
1iI1n. like Ki"rostami'$ were chan&jll¥ place for myself while she prepllres telL ~
the Wellltern mind abOUt ITlIn'1f imall:e. I Lovebirds croon in a comer, amid a ~
sai4 it was so important for the.e films haphazard colleclion of Oriental and
to be 'OCII outside Tran. She had never european furniture and prin;s·.-~
even hellId of Cannes:' her teenage daUihtcr, appeafs.((fNFOR:
Soon at'teT, the I:0vernment allowed MATION ABOUT SECOND CHILD
TA.fltl Df CherTJI to be sent \0 tile festival, TO COME.) Sh. Is ,by and pretty, with
";".j" where it WOft tho P"lIne cS'Or, me m~cr rDor more En,llsh at hor disposal than
pri~e, Later it WlllI shown in thc U,S. her mother. Still, she muo. ll. few
"I would alway, try to help lUI clancs .lipUpll, "J WlUlt to be a wet," .he an­
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j I

noun~. law, she's a challenger." Adds anolher


J beg bel' paardon.
HA wet," she repeats, "lIJId look aner
anin\m. J clon'[ evcr wanl to set mar­
7
editot, "If she would I:CI some serious
politiClll, diplomatic trainin~. and seri­
ous edllea.tion, she could be a VOiCcl for
rieeL- Hermodler listens indulll:ently. the future or women in Lhis country'" .r-
HAt 14," she says, "neither ella I." Faezeh Hashemi has heard all the
Yet it WlIS only two yeus later thlll commenu, all the c:Titics, all the opin­
Faezch Hashemi's wedding took place. ions. But only she can fully perceive the
By arrangement, .he mlUTi~ the son or enonnous coml'Jjcation~ of her position.
a man who had Khtm~d her father's uSometimes J think 1 want to be power­
prison cell. To Weltemers, it would ful," says Ihe woman who hlL5 so rt:tany
seem a great irony that a woman who demands to rec:ondl", so"many'publics
durin, lhe next fe.... yoau would be to avoid offending, $0 many risles. And
dlaracICrized internationally as "the
then.~he add4....somc:.thins. ralhcr Stllr­
. feminist MU$lim" wa.s dle passive partie>
tling. "(aJso w;:ant to be fre"." ­
ipant in Ii wedding ceremony that WIlS
Maybe the volatility and earel....ness
morc: a consolidation of the two fathers'
tlult Faezch HlL~hemi's observers note is
c:mer~nJl; powe.. thlln of dlO couple'•.
JUSt nerve". Or perhap. thi.s is a revolu­
Maybe tlashcml 10v;,1 her rarely men-
tionary who is hiding another ins...rrec­
otioned husb::tnd. Maybe he: is a eonce$­ tiOll, a personal one, long po"tponed but
sion to uadlrion,lilce the ehlldor. What­ building Ii/lally in the unruly current~ of
ever the truth Is, Hashemi tells me that her remarL:ilblc exeitc:menl. D
shc'lI let Mona enoose her own hus­
blUld.

he ncxt day we arc on the slopes at

T Abali, a smaIl, private slti llrea mllin­


tained by lrtUlian Niltional Oil. There:
lire mOIC dran)alic recreational venucs
just outside Iran in the E1bur;z: ~~on of
NATION TK. but Abali's course i.
comfortabl)l undemanding. WId F-Iltshe­
mi toolc up "kiing only .. fc:w years a,o.
She practice. in a trench coat, with a
sporly ski bc''lnd under her sc~rf. and fo....
bids my taking her picture.
"00 you thinle I loolc like Harold
Uoyd?" she says, just before making 1\
~ame jump over II small mogul. Her fa­
bled enc:Tgy is much in evidence.
Later on, a.s we leave, she advi~ the:

manager that thcre is no need to segre­

gale men and women Using the slopl:£.

She says this is a family plllCC.

"I'm jWlt doln&, my job," he replies.


On the road back to Teheran, I sec

that some of lhe youn&, men from the

.Iop..s h..ve been spread-eal:led over

their cars by rifle-tOtmg Ho.tbollahi. The

guards, it appe::trs,. an; confiscating

Western C.D.'•.

Next yellr, the revolution will be 20


years old, Half of IflU) i. about that age.
Faezeh Huhemi will be 36 whon the
great Rnniversary lIrTiv". As the chil­
dren of her peers grow up, the character
of thc revolution may become mol'..
open. Or more danler~usJy fanatical
and violent. There: are many variablcll.
That i. Why Hamemi divides herself
among between so mllny camps. There
are, alter tI.IJ, .0 many 'ram.
'" lPve ber credit," ...y. Farlclc:h
f'lP'hI. "Widlin Ihc eontcxt or lslarnic

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