Woodwork For Grades

/OODWORK
GRADES
FOR THE
FRANK HENRY SELDEN
(lass
TlJ-lxL
>fS
p
Book
rgyrighfi
r.
14 IZ
night deposit.
Woodwork
for the
Grades
FOR USE IN
Manual Training
Shop Problems
Classes
Fully Illustrated with Three Hundred Half-tone Engravings from Actual Shop Practice and Many Working Drawings of Educational
A
CHICAGO
ORR & LOCKETT HARDWARE

71-73
CO.
Randolph Street
^5
Copyrighted by
Orb
cV
IxJckett
Hardware
Co..
1908
Frank Henry Selden,

Prank Henry Selden.
1912
L913
Woodwork
for the
Grades
Introduction
This course in woodwork
is
intended for use by pupils who

tools.
have had no previous experience with wood-working

It is
planned to develop the subject in a systematic manner

principles.
in
harmony with well established pedagogic
The
by a
lessons consist of instruction in tool usage, followed
large variety of designs for articles useful in the

first
home.
of
The
lessons should be thoroughly mastered so that the

in construction will
interest
and progress
be genuine and
educational value.
It is
no waste
of
time or interest to learn
by use
a plan
of study pieces the

if
fundamental tool operations.
Such
properly followed will result not only in
far larger
educational value, but also in deeper interest and

display of finished articles.
a better
The advantages
of
using a complete, definite text are beyond
the belief of those teachers of shop work

oral instruction or the
use of reference works.
who depend upon The use of this
text has not only demonstrated the advisability of using a text

as
a matter of
economy
of
the teacher's time, but has also
demonstrated that with
this text the pupils will
accomplish as
this aid
much
in the sixth
grade as we have heretofore without

;
expected of the eighth grade
while in the eighth grade as
much
first
value
is
received as by other means could be gained in
year high school.
WOODWORK FOR THE GRADES
NAILS
There are many kinds of nails, brads and similar fastenings. These include common wire nails, cut nails and brads. To introduce to you all of the styles and sizes at once
would only confuse and do more harm than good.

to gain a proper
articles is
The way
useful
knowledge
of
these
common and
to
work with but few
sizes until they are familiar,

sizes.
first.
then use them as a basis from which to estimate other In your school work you
will
use
66.
wire nails
Examine these nails carefully. Measure them in all ways and remember the dimensions. You will soon learn to select a 6d nail from an assortment of many sizes.
After you have learned this size you can readily estimate
the other
common
first
sizes
by comparison.
likely to use only 6d,
at
In your
3d
nails.
If
work you are you do any work
4d and
home with rough

is
inch boards
you
will likely
use lOd nails for the boards and 20d spikes

usually
for the 2
inch frame-work which
required.
By
driving a
6d
how much
through two j inch pieces and noting the point extends, you will have a useful and
nail
easily retained basis of
comparison.
will get
By
driving a
20d spike
of
through two 2 inch pieces you
another dimension to
work from.
Try the lOd
nail with
two thicknesses
rough
inch lumber and also a 1-inch and a 2-inch piece.

After you have learned the sizes of the most
common
nails
you should learn to distinguish between
made from
the
common
size of
which are wire and those which are made

nails
from smaller
sizes.

Boxes are frequently made with
nails
having a smaller
diameter than the

are
common
wire nails.
Hence
nails
which
made from
wire below the ordinary size are called box
nails.
is
much
lighter
6d box nail is the same length as a 6d common, but and has a smaller head, because the wire from
which
it is
made
is
smaller.
Nails of very small size are

smaller sizes are sold
by
length.
brads by the shape of the
made for small work. The They are distinguished from heads. The small nails have the
and
spikes.
same form
difference
of
head
as the larger nails
The brads have

is
small round heads.
The reason
is
for this
that nails are for use
where the surface
not to
visible,
be highly finished and therefore the nailhead may be

or
it
may be
set
below the surface and covered with putty.
In
setting a nailhead the
wood around
the head
is
usually torn so
that the surface will not finish to the best advantage
the
The small smooth round heads of the brads do not crush wood so much when they are set. and therefore their heads can be covered in a manner to make the holes scarcely
noticeable.
several lengths and each length of Most hardware dealers have a variety of lengths, but usually not more than one or two sizes of wire of each length. Your first work will require but a limited variety of brads. You will have little if any occasion to use those made of the smaller sizes of wire. As a basis for comparison, learn the size of a common inch brad so that you can pick one
Brads are
made
in
several sizes of wire.
from an assortment of brads without measuring
it.
The
'
inch
and
inch are other sizes which
it
is
worth while
to learn.
The
driving of nails and brads
is
a matter of great import-

ance.
One who knows how

will fail.
to
use a
hammer
properly will
drive a brad into a bit of hard wood, while one
who does not

to
know how
It is difficult to either
show or explain the proper way
drive nails, but

a
if
you
will
watch carefully every time you use
hammer you soon
will learn
how
to drive nails.
In driving nails or brads into hard
rubbed on soap
bending.
or grease to
cause
wood they should be them to drive without
SCREWS AND THEIR USES

Screws are made in a great variety
of
shapes and sizes for
many
purposes.
For your
first
work
occasion to use but two kinds.
wood you will have The flat head wood screw

in
shown
and
in Fig.
lA
the
round
head wood screw
shown
Fig.
in Fig.
IB
to
1A
Flat Head Screw.

part
are
sufficient
begin with.
In using a round head wood screw a hole
as the
is
bored
as large
shank
the
is
on which there
is
is
no thread.
This
hole should be as deep as the shank

of
this
long.
At the bottom
hole
sometimes bored
another
for
the
Fig.
threaded portion
of the
IB Round Head Screw.

is
screw.
of bit
The form
Fig. 2A.
used in boring these holes

called a gimlet bit.
shown
in
This
is
The
size
of the hole

10

determined by several conditions.
the base of the thread.
If
is
the
wood
is
very
the
hard, the hole should be as large as the
thickness
is
of
screw
at
If
the
wood
very soft and

_
you are provided with a
good screw driver such

as
is
Îfc-iW -^
_. Fig.
^^^^^S
2A Gimlet Bn
.
.
shown
will
in Fig.
2B
_.
_.
no hole
be required.
or hardness of the
You must therefore consider the texture wood in determining the size of bit to
use.
it
Where
two pieces are fastened together by screws
is
usual to bore a hole
-^
Fig.
s^^^J^^"^^
2BScrew Drive,
'
^^^^^^^^HHHP
large
enough
for
the shank of the
screw through one

piece and bore the
hole for the threaded portion in the other piece without regard
to length of either part of the screw.
Often, in manufacturing work, the screw
is
started with a
hammer and then

way
In
finished with a screw driver.
This
is
good
to insert small screws in soft
wood.
is
many
cases one difficulty
to avoid splitting the pieces,

of
which requires careful planning

bored.
If
the
sizes
of
the holes
grease, not
oil.
of
some kind
is
used
in the holes the
screws will insert easier and also hold better.
The
grease
should be placed
is
in the
hole rather than on the screw.
Soap
often used for this purpose.
A
that
if
matter which
the screw
in
is
is
often overlooked in inserting screws
is
turned too
fail
much
it
will
strip the
It
thread
formed
the
wood and
to hold properly.
requires a

good deal
of care to turn the
11
screw just enough to cause
it
to
hold the greatest amount.

Small screws, and especially brass ones,
may be
twisted in
two unless a hole
of sufficient size
is
is
made.
in the
The
the
flat
head wood screw
used
same manner
as
round head wood
screw except that in hard
wood a
head.
^"'
lilli
-L -- i
conical hole
is
- mmjSmS
J
bored to receive the
Fig.2C-Countersink
The
tool
used
is
in
boring these holes

Fig. 2C.
It is
called a countersink
bit
and
is
shown
in
used in a
brace as
is
a bit.
In selecting screws the length

inch.
is
given in fractions of an
in
The diameter
five
of the
shank
is
given
numbers.
The
number
3 /45
about }i inch, the number ten about inch and the number eighteen about %e inch in diameter
screw
is
of shank.
FINISHES
For the
first
work
in the
woodshop you
will
have need
for
only the most simple finishes.
The most
ing
it
useful finish, because of what you learn in apply-
it,
is
white shellac.
This
it
is
not only a durable finish, but
is
so transparent that
does not destroy the natural beauty
of the
wood.
Several coats of shellac are required to
make
nice finish.
After each coat the surface should be carefully
sandpapered.
For
this
use the finer grades of sandpaper.
Articles finished with white shellac can

if
be
easily repaired
injured.
As the wood remains nearly
its
natural color
much
can be learned by having about the
home
articles
of different
12

finished.
of the
woods thus
appearance
You
will
become
familiar
with the
woods and
learn to distinguish them.
Any
stain wastes this opportunity of learning the various
woods.
Stains are usually a matter of local sentiment or
changing
fashion
and therefore
if
you
treat
your school work to some

it
coating which
its
may soon go
stains are the
out of style,
will
be apt
to lose
interest.
are
The paint made by
most simple
stains to use.
They
oil.
using the ordinary paint colors ground in
These
are sold in small tin packages.
To
or
use stains, select the colors desired, or combine two

of
more
the commercial colors
self.
Thin the color with turpentine.

Allow
it
making a shade to suit yourApply with a common

Then, with a clean
wood.
It
paintbrush or cloth.
to dry for a longer or shorter
time according to the shade of color wanted.

cloth,
wipe
off all
except that which
is
in the grain of the
After the wiping allow the stain to dry thoroughly.
may
the
then be brightened by going over with a cloth and ordinary

floor or furniture
wax.
The more waxing and rubbing

on
sale
better.
There
ufacturers.
is
a large variety of stains
by dealers, which
should be used according to directions furnished by the man-
Varnishing should not be attempted until you can handle

a brush skilfully
and can
also prepare the
wood
in a
first
class
manner.
the novice
It
it
is
easy to put varnish on a surface so that to
will
appear a very
fair
piece of work; but such
coatings are certain to result in disappointment in a short time.
The
wiser
way
for
the young woodworker
is
to
let
varnish
entirely alone.
13
DESIGN
The beginner in woodwork usually has enough to do to master
the problems in tool usage which are essential to successful work.
Nearly
all
the designs in this course are capable of a large
variety of modifications.
You should
first
study the design as

of the parts, but
given.
to learn
fully
Not simply
to fix in
mind the shape
why
the parts are shaped in such a manner.
Go
care-
over every tool operation used in making the object.
This
will usually
throw light upon the reasons

all
for
the sizes or shapes.
After you have learned
you can by studying one design
go carefully over
all
of the designs of a similar form, or con-
taining similar parts.
The
details,
such
as the shapes of
is
edges and the sizes and
spacing of the small parts,
the
last
step in studying the designs.
All the objects given in this course are
planned to encourthis
age such a study and
if
you
will carefully
go over them in
manner you
will
gain ability to work out problems in design.
You should be
The one
able to
work out a new and appropriate design
from any lesson which you

fact
may
in
select.
mind is that designing is not guessing, but rather taking known elements and working definto
keep
itely into
new
work
forms which are within prescribed limits.

in
In
your
first
wood your design must be

you are able
limited to such
materials
It is
and
tool processes as
to use successfully.
all
not possible to proceed in the same manner with
designing, but the following
may
to
help to lead you into syste-
matic methods.
First
Select the article
be made.
Second
Decide
whether you wish to economize on time in doing the work or

14

use any amount of time necessary to produce the best
to
results.
Third
Estimate the amount of cash outlay.
Fourth
Select the material.
(This
will
be determined not only by
preferences for certain woods but also by expense and time.)
compared with the type of Sixth -The chief dimension should be determined by the space which the object is to occupy or its specific use. A book rack for a few large volumes would be higher and narrower than a rack for a larger number of small books or perhaps have fewer and
Fifth
Compare the general

selected.
size as
1
article
(Consider
and 2.)
wider shelves.
for
Seventh
Ninth
Calculate
the thickness of material

the relative size of top
part.
each
part.
Eighth Decide upon

of joining.
and bottom.
Sketch the outline of each

This
is
Tenth-
Determine the method
decided somewhat
by the preceding steps
in the process.
15
LESSON
LUMBER
This branch of schoolwork
as
is
is
called
woodwork. Such wood
You already know that lumber is made by cutting up trees. The trees are cut down by chopping and sawing and are then taken to a mill and sawed into lumber. To those who do not understand the
used in shopwork
is
usually called lumber.
cutting of trees and the working of
them
into boards or other
lumber products the work appears to be very simple and to

require no very definite knowledge.
case,
for
it
This, however,
is
not the
as
really
requires
great
deal
of
judgment
Fig
3 Ax
place the logs in the mill and
of
well as muscular strength.
To
work them
so as to get the
most and best grades
lumber
is
a matter requiring
much knowledge and judgment and
a great
deal of experience.
The
is
tools
and the saw (Fig. 4).

also
used in cutting down the trees are the ax (Fig. 3) The saw which is used to fell the tree
logs.
at
used to cut the tree into
These saws
are usually
about 6 feet long, have handles

crosscut saws.
each end and are called
10

After the timber
is
sawed into boards or other shapes, these
are taken out of the mill
piled just as
it
and piled. comes from the saw
Sometimes the lumber

mill,
is
but usually
it is
sorted
Fig. 4
Crosscut Saw
and grades and each kind placed
different
into different lengths, sizes

in a pile
by
itself.
There are a great many

but
grades of pine.
Other
kinds of trees are not sorted into so

all
many
grades as the pine,
are usually sorted before being
worked up into building

all
material, furniture or other products.

It is
impossible for you to learn at this time

of
about these
different kinds
lumber, but
will
if
you
will
examine each piece
while working
it,
you soon
understand enough about pine
and the
from a
common
for
soft
cabinet woods to select and purchase stock
you require
your work.
The piece which you have was
cut
pine tree.
The
large millsaw leaves the surface of
the board very rough.
This roughness may be removed by hand planing, but it is usual to run rough lumber through a machine called a surfacer (Fig. 5). Some surfacers dress but
at
one side
once.
a time, others dress both sides at once.

all
Some
machines, called four-sided machines, dress
four sides at
How
do you think
this
piece was dressed?
17
Fig.
Surfacing a Board
2
the light and
LESSON
Hold the piece studied
observe the
little
INSPECTING MATERIAL
in
Lesson
to
markings across the surface.
Sometimes
these marks are very large and uneven; sometimes they are
very fine and can scarcely be seen.
As they
are
made by
the
machine they are called machine marks.
IS

Sometimes the knives which do the cutting become uneven and then a mark is made lengthwise of the piece.
shows two marks lengthwise and the regular
fine
or nicked Fig. 6
marks
crosswise.
The piece photographed
for
the picture was
much
rougher than would be the case were the machine in good condition.
This piece was selected because
if
the surface was properly
smoothed the markings would not be
visible in the picture.
You have nothing

learn to see them,
to
do with these markings except to

fine
no matter how
plane.
they are, and to remove
them by using the hand
No
when
matter
how smooth and
straight a surface
may appear
if
tested
by using the try-square and straight-edge,
there
ipilliliitiiifli
Mill
linijiiuuiMiim nuit
i
in
I!!
iiuiuiim lUttunmtm<iM
Fig.
HUM
6 Piece Showing Machine Marks

in
it,
are any
machine marks
they must be removed before
it
can be considered
properly
smoothed.
than before.
After a surface
is
finished with varnish or any similar finish the

will
machine marks
finish
show much more
clearly
Sometimes marks
Because
of
which are so
will
fine as not to
be noticed before applying the

varnishing.
show very
which
plainly
arise
after
these
troubles,
faces,
from leaving machine marks

careful to learn in your
in the surfirst
you must be very

at
lessons
how
it
to see
them and how

it
to
remove them.
Do
not be satisfied
by looking
the surface in only one direction, but examine
by holding
up
all
to the light in several positions, until
you
are certain that
machine marks have been removed.
19
LESSON
PLANE
The
tool
which
is
ordinarily
used to remove the machine
marks and true the surfaces

hand-plane shown in Fig.
of small pieces of
lumber
is
the
the
7, called a smooth-plane.
If
piece
larg er
plane
to
be
smoothed were
you
a
might use
like the
one shown in
Fig. 8, called a
jack-plane There are a great many

.
kinds of planes,
some larger and
some
Fig.
smaller
7 Smooth Plane
Fig.
8 -Jack Plane
20

first
than these, but for the
work
it is
better to use only these two.
After you have learned to use these properly you can study other
styles.
These two planes
differ
only in the sizes of the parts.

Figs.
7
and 8 show
9 shows
how
to take hold of
^P
them and Fig.
how to place the piece

against the benchstop
of
and the
position
for
arms and body
ordinary planing.
The
parts of the plane for
which you require names are given in

Fig. 10. Fig. 11 shows
to
how
hold the plane to

if
see
is
the cutting edge
properly adjusted.
Thelever9(Fig.lO)
Plane Iron. Plane Iron Cap. Plane Iron Screw. Cap.
Cap Screw
Frog. "Y" Adjustment. Brass Adjusting Nut.
Lateral Adjustment
Frog Screw.
Handle.
Knob. Handle "Boltand Nul' Knob "Bolt and Nut." Handle Screw.
Bottom.
Fig.
1
Section of Plane

moves the
more
so
at
21
plane-bit, so
it
will cut
more nearly square
across or
one side or the other as desired.

milled thumb-nut 8
is used to move the bit endwise more beyond the bottom or sole of the plane, Your plane is probably or to withdraw it so it will project less. set just right for the work you are to do, therefore do
The
it
will project
not
move
either the lever

until the
or the
thumb-nut
bit requires adjusting.
In order to know which way to turn the milled

thumb-nut
ing
in
it
try
it
by turnturned
each way, because

it is
some planes
one way and in others in

the opposite direction to
move the
bit downward. As you turn the milled thumb-nut both ways to
Fig. 1
Sighting
the
Bottom of the Plane
observe the effect of the

turning be careful to
it
begins to
remember how much you turn it before move the plane-bit. Do not attempt to do anything
little oil
further with the plane except to put a

if
on the bottom
the bottom
it.
becomes rough because

your plane
it
of the pine
gum
stick-
ing to
If
is
dull or
if it
requires adjusting in any
other manner, report
to your teacher.
is
Your
first
work
on
in the shop
to learn
how
to
make
the
sides or surfaces of pieces straight
and true
in all ways.
You
must learn
this
a piece of material especially selected to
22

if
teach these things, for
you begin by trying to make somefail
thing for use you will probably
to learn
how
1
to plane
and
in
how
to true a surface.
The methods
of
work given
in
Lessons
to
20 are used
working nearly every piece which you make and therefore you
should be very careful to follow them exactly as they are given.
Your speed
in making things later in the course will depend It is upon the thoroughness of your study of these directions. a common occurrence for a pupil who is thorough in his work in making the scale and bench-hook to make a table or book-
case in one-fourth of the time required by one
who goes
over
the same
lessons
but does not
study or understand them
thoroughly.
Learn to work exactly

fingers
lines
as directed,
even
to the placing the
upon the tool, the position of the knife in drawing and every other detail. All these instructions are the
result of
school shops
much experimenting and experience with students and with practical men in actual trade work
You have
if
in in
many
lines.
the opportunity of profiting by the ex-
perience of others and
you are
to get the
most good from

of
your work you must use the experience of others instead
blundering along in your
own way.
at a trifling
effort.
Given these
results
you can reap the benefits
expenditure of time and
Your plan should be

it,
to learn
the work exactly as the author gives
study of his methods, you

of
may
try to
and then, after a full work out better methods

fol-
your own, but do not waste your time experimenting or
lowing your own notions until you

tried the
know and have thoroughly
methods given
in this
book.
23
LESSON
PLANING FIRST SURFACE

Before beginning to plane look carefully at both sides and
edges of the piece and select the better side

first
for
of
the one to be
the two wider
planed.
We mean by the term
'
side" one
surfaces.
or
It is
first.
not usual to plane one of the narrower surfaces
edges
Fig. 1
2 Piece against Stop

against the bench-stop as
Place the piece of

in Figures 9
wood
shown
off
and 12 and remove one shaving, taking
the
If
portion indicated
by the
light colored portion in Fig. 13.
the piece
is
quite straight
and
true the shaving
may be
of the
same width and thickness the
entire length, but probably the
plane will cut from one or two high places, leaving the surface
24

If
spotted as indicated in Fig. 14.
the plane does not cut a
shaving the entire length, do not go over the same place again
but
move
the plane farther over toward the right hand side,

15
taking a shaving as indicated in Fig.
and then another
Fig.
13
First Shaving Removed from a Smooth Piece
Fig. 1 4
First Shaving Removed from a Rough Piece
Fig.
15 Second
Shaving Removed
Fi?.
16
7"
shaving
Lastly
still
farther from the side
first
planed, as in Fig. 16.
remove a shaving from the farther side of the top surface If the piece were (Fig. 17) and then examine it carefully. quite smooth the planing would appear as shown in Figs. 18,

19 and 20.
25
Examine the
surface carefully to see
how smoothly
the plane has cut and then turn the piece, placing the other
end against the bench-stop.

the same manner as at
first
Plane over the surface again in

it.
and then examine
Compare the
Fig. 1
Fourth Shaving Removed
Fig. 1
Second Shaving Removed

.
9 Third Shaving Removed
Fig.
20 Fourth
Shaving Removed
appearance
after the
second time over with that
of the
first.
Did the piece plane easier or smoother the first time or the second time? Sometimes you will need to examine the piece
very carefully in order to
know which way
will
plane smoother.
26

will
3)metimes the piece

rough
plane
if
plane very smooth one way and very
planed from the opposite direction.

in
Some pieces will not
smooth
either direction.
This roughness
or smoothness in
planing results
from the grain
the
cf
Fig.
21 Straight
Grained Pica
wood
not bewith
Fig.
ing
parallel
the surface.
21
is
a picture of
a piece in which
the
grain
is
it
so
straight that
can
Fig.
be planed
in either
23 Piece from Near a

if
Knot
direction. Fig. 22
is
a picture of a piece which will plane smooth

to B, but
if
the plane
is
moved from A
stop
the
end
A
to
were placed against the
and the plane moved from B

in Fig.
the surface would be
made rough. The piece shown

direction, for the
in another.
23
is
will
not plane smooth in either

at
grain at
in
one direction and that

the
As
it is
impossible to plane such a piece smooth

it
the entire length you should plane

it
way which
will
make
the smoothest.
In this case this will be accomplished by
planing from
to A.
By
This
carefully studying the grain of each piece

of the
which you
work you can judge the way

will
grain before you plane.
save both time and material.

Fig.
27
24 shows one
of
many
causes of crooked grain in
wood.
grain.
The
piece shown in Fig. 23 was cut from this board
above the large knot.
This knot
is
the cause of the crooked
You can
easily
imagine
effect
how
the
grain will
bend
around a knot and how the

the knot.
extends several inches from
Fig.
24 Board
with
Knot
There are many peculiar freaks in the grains of different woods which you will learn as you work pieces of various sizes and shapes. Now that you understand how to examine the
grain and
face,
until
how
to place the piece to
make
the smoothest sur-
you can continue planing over the surface systematically

it is
smooth
entirely across.
Follow the plan indicated

plane the smoothest, plane
by the
illustrations (Figs. 13 to 20).
After learning which
way
will
the piece only in that direction, no matter which end requires the most planing.
28
LESSON
You have now planed
smooth,
square.
TESTING THE FIRST SURFACE

the surface until
it
it
appears to be
try-
and must
test
more
carefully
by using a
Fig.
25 Testing from
Edge
to
Edge
Fig. 26 shows a try-square such as

is
used
in
many
two
schools.
parts.
consists of
Fig.
26
quare
is
The try-square The thicker part

Try-
called
the head or beam, and the

is
thinner part
called the blade.

sizes,
squares are
made
in
many
styles
and
but
all
the forms

suitable for use in beginning the study of
29
woodwork
ordinary
are similar
to the one shown
The
for
try-squares
cabi-
use of
carpenters,
net makers and similar tradesFig.
27-
men
are not expensive tools
Steel
Framing Square
and sometimes suchtry-squares

are incorrect.
There are many
ways
of testing
is
them, but
for
the beginner the best
method
to test
them by comparing them with other

a
large
steel
try-squares
(Fig. 27).
or with
framing
square
Hold
light
the piece which you are planing
up
to the
and place the blade
of the try-square across
the face as shown in Fig.

25.
If
the blade of the
try-square
touches
all
the
surface at
surface
is
points the
as
correct
tested from edge to edge.

If
the
all
try-square does
not
is
touch
the surface the piece
incorrect
and instead
of planing
over the entire surface in a syste-
matic manner as
at first directed
you should now move the plane

so
it
will
cut
off
the high
Fig.
28 End View
of Plane
places only.
You have probably discovered
that the plane cuts
deeper
30

moved
over the high places as shown
is
near the center of the cutting edge, therefore the center of the
cutting edge should be
in Fig. 28.
In this case the plane
near one edge.

is
Continue planing
in this
moved so it will cut a shaving manner until the surface

to edge, hold the piece
as
true as tested
by applying the try-square from edge to edge.

is
After the surface

to the light
true from
edge
to
and
sight from
end
end
shown
in Fig. 29.
\9 7
Fig.
<&*
29 Sighting
Lengthwise

This
is
31
to see
if
the piece
is
straight.
Be sure
to
hold the
piece in the proper position to get a ray of light.
Usually to
After you
do
this
the piece must be held up from the bench.

this
have examined the piece in

face as
way, set the plane on the surit
shown
in Fig. 30, tipping
just
enough
to
to allow light
it.
pass under
straight-edge
may be used in a similar manner.

In grasping the
straight-edge hold
it
near the center
as
shown
at
in Fig.
it
31 whether
wider
be
the cen-
ter or straight
on
both edges.
Fig.
30-
Using
the Sole of the
Plane as a
Straight-edge
The machinist steel straight-edges which maybe used

this
for
purpose
have parallel edges.
If
there
is
any space between the piece

of the
and
straight -edge at
either
end
piece or at any other
point along the length, plane
down
the high places until the
piece
is
straight.
In doing this planing be careful to keep the

first test.
piece correct as tested from edge to edge in the
Probably your chief difficulty
is
that
you do not press down
enough on the toe of the plane in starting the stroke, and not enough on the heel of the plane in finishing the stroke. If the piece is low at the ends and you bear down on the plane
32

it
properly
will
not begin to cut until after the cutting edge

place,
has passed
beyond the low
and
it
will
cease to cut as
it
nears the opposite end.
See Figs. 32 and 33.
Fig.
31
Using a Wooden Straight-edge
Sometimes
it
is
necessary to remove the shavings from but

In such a case do not place the plane
a part of the length.
down on
the surface and then begin to

lift
move
it
forward or stop
the forward
movement and plane moving forward as it

ually raise
it
the plane abruptly, but keep the
is
lowered to the surface and grad-
before
it
ceases to
move forward
in finishing the
of the surface
stroke.
If this is
done, there
will
be no marking
where the shaving cut begins

In
that
all of this
or ends.
planing be careful to
it
move
the plane so slowly
you can see just exactly how
is
cutting at every part of

the stroke by looking
33
down
is
into the space
where the shaving

of the plane.
If
comes up.
This space
called the
mouth
Fig.
32 Starting
Plane
Fig.
33 Finishing Stroke
34

are obliged to
you
move
quickly in order to
make
the plane
it
cut, either sharpen the plane or
change the
the planes
set so that
will
plane easily enough to allow of very slow movement.

times
it
Some-
is
necessary to
grind
very rounding
(Fig. 108), so that they will take a very narrow shaving and
require less strength to
do the work.
Sometimes a
little oil
on
the plane bottom will cause the plane to work easier.
LESSON
You now have
enough.
a surface true in
SIGHTING FOR WIND

two ways, but
this
is
not
it
In order to be true enough for use in good work,
must be correct
when
tested in three ways.

test,
The
first
test
from
edge to edge, and the second

yet
sighting for straightness

is all
from end to end, may indicate that the piece

if
right,
and one
you
lay the piece
upon
flat
surface arid press
down upon
or
one corner, and then upon another, the piece may rock,
corner be
another
is
lifted as
pressed
the
down.
piece
When
is
not true
in
is
as tested
this
manner
to
it
said
be "in wind."
is
This word
pro-
Fit nounced with long i and means much the same as the word twist.
Fig. 34 shows
how such
a piece
would
rest
upon a
flat
surface
and
Fig. 35
shows how such a

piece would appear
are
if
35
looked
at
from one side.
These
'pieces
first
much more
in
wind than you

of this the
are likely to get for your
test piece,
and because
crookedness
is
quite visible in
the picture.
If
the piece
it
is
in
wind even a very
little,
it
must be made
straight before
can be used, and therefore you must study
Fig.
35 View of Surface
is
of Winding Piece
carefully to
also
know what
If
meant by the word wind and must

is
be certain that you can readily see whether the piece

not.
in
wind or
the piece
is
correct
we
say
it is
out of wind,
or not in wind.
The most convenient and

for
practical
way
to
examine
a piece
wind
is
to hold
it
up
in
both hands between your eyes and
the side light as
shown
in Fig. 36.
First roll the piece until
you cannot see any

roll
of the
back
edge, the edge farthest from you, and then
the piece very
slowly in the opposite direction until you can just see the
back
edge.
If
the piece
is
true, or not in wind,
you
will see all of
the back edge alike, but
if the piece is in wind, one back corshow more than the other back corner. The corner which is more visible is called the high back corner, and must
ner
will
be planed down
until
both back corners appear
alike.
3G

Before doing any planing upon the high back corner, mark
an
upon
it
and then turn the piece so
that the
will
be
at
the edge near your eye.
Examine the piece again
as
at
first
and you
will find
another high back corner.
S
Fig.
36
Sighting for
if
Wind
Mark
ally
if
this
high corner also and
you have examined the

teach you that
surface properly, you will have the two X's on the two diagon-
opposite corners.
is
This second test

is
is
to
there
a high back corner, there
also a
high front corner
at
the opposite end, therefore in planing to
make
the surface
true,
you can plane

off
off
either high corner, but usually

of the
you
should plane a part
each
high corners.

Before you plane either corner, examine each end to see
37
if
one end
plane
off
is
thicker than the opposite

of the
end.
If
there
is
any
difference in the thickness
two ends, you had better
the high corner at the thicker end so that you will be
making the piece nearer equal thickness at the two ends at the same time you are planing down the high corners and getting
the piece out of wind.
In planing out of wind, work very carefully and

piece very often.
surface true, test
it
test the
If
in
you have any trouble about making the these three ways after each shaving is
tests
removed.
Unless you make these

out of wind.
if
you
will
waste
much
time by making the piece incorrect in other ways as you

attempt to plane
it
smooth
as well as true, but

start or stop
Be careful to keep the piece you cannot avoid making marks

all
where you
atically, as
the plane, go
over the surface system-
directed in Lesson 4, after the surface has been
planed true.
Do
not give up until the surface
is
correct as tested in
if
these three ways, for you can
make
it
correct
you
will
work
carefully according to the directions.

is
The common mistake
to neglect testing
it
often enough.
LESSON
After the surface has
FACE-MARK
been made true
is
it
should be marked
so that you
also so that
know
is
it
has been tested and found correct, and

the surface you
is
you know which

used
for this
first
trued.
The mark which

and the surface
purpose
called
a.
face-mark,
is
is
called a face-surface.
The face-mark
of
38

importance, and you must be very particular to place a
of this
much
mark
character on the
first
is
surface of every piece which

correct.
you work
but
as
soon as the surface
The mark should be

it
similar to the
like
it.
one shown
it is
in Fig. 37,
need not be exactly
Usually
located near
<
1
Fig.
3 7 First Face-m
is
the center of the piece and
made
free
hand.
It
always ex-
tends entirely to one edge and never to both edges.

reason for this
to
is
The
mark,
that the
edge to which
it
extends
is
the one
be planed next, the one which

is
will receive a similar
and which
For
the
called a face-edge.
this reason
is
you must examine the piece and determine

the piece
which edge
first
to
be the face-edge before making the mark on

If
is
surface.
to
be cut up into two or more
pieces, face-marks should be placed

after the parts are separated
on the surface so
that
there will be a face-mark on each
piece.
LESSON
In
all
KEEPING THE PLANE SHARP

planing you must keep the plane sharp.
You not
only can learn to sharpen the plane, but you can learn also to
do something which
will
avoid dulling
it
rapidly.

If
39
you have a board which has not been machine planed

all grit
or
surfaced, brush
and
dirt
off
the surface before begin-
ning to plane
it.
By being
careful to plane systematically,
you
will true
the
surface with
less
much
planing, and
thus not only do

better
work,
but
also will
use the
plane so
that
it
much less
remain
will
sharp much
longer.
If,
in using the
Fig.
plane, as it is drawn
38 Lifting Plane
on Return Stroke
back the cutting edge rubs upon the surface

of the piece
being planed, the edge

will be dulled more
1
than while cutting
on the forward Because stroke.

of this
you should
lift,
either
tilt
or
swing the plane as
you
pull
it
back.
Fig. 38 shows
how
lifted
the plane
so
that
is
on
it
the return stroke

Fig.
39
Swinging Plane on Return Stroke
rests
upon the toe
40

on the cutting edge
to hold
is
it
of the plane instead of
of the bit.
For most
work
this
this
is
the best
way
on the return
stroke.
it
Sometimes the piece

manner.
This
It
is
too narrow to permit of lifting

to an angle as
it
in in
may then be turned

the usual
shown
Fig. 39.
way
of
holding
in jointing edges.
Fig. 4
Tilling
Plane on Return Stroke

in this
The one difficulty about turning the plane you may neglect to turn it entirely back
with the edges for the forward stroke.
this, for
if
manner
is
that
to a position parallel
Be
sure to guard against
you do not
it
will
take
much
longer to
make
the sur-
face correct.
third
is
method, which
to
tilt
is
more often used
in
planing wide
Carefully
surfaces,
the plane as shown in Fig. 40.

is
jtudy each of these methods and use whichever
best for the
work
in
hand.
LESSON
The
next task
is
9 FIRST EDGE
an edge
for
to plane
a face-edge.
This
edge must be true
as
shown by
testing with the try-square as

in Fig.
41
41 and also by sighting

After you
for straightness,
as
shown
in
Fig. 29.
have sighted the edge, you may use a
straight-edge, as in Fig. 31, or the plane
bottom
as in Fig. 30,
but do not use either of these until you have examined the
There are two reasons why you should depend upon the straight-edge or the plane bottom: First, if you do not use your eye you miss the opportunity of learning the best methods and learning to work rapidly; second, you will soon be working on pieces too long to test with the plane or straight-edge, and if you have not learned to sight with your eye, you will be unable to do good work. In using the try-square hold it as shown in Fig. 41, pressing the head firmly against the face-surface. Be particedge by sighting
it.
not
jm
Fig.
41
Testing
First Edge
42

your success
will
ular to hold the wrist

of
and forearm as shown in Fig. 42, for much depend upon the position of your arm and
lift it
wrist.
Do
not rub the blade along the edge, but
and
lower
it
at several
places.
test to
Be
sure to
the ends.
of
The planing
the edges follows
substantially the
same methods
suiface,
Fig.
as
the planing of the

as
illus-
42
Testing First
Edge
trated in Lesson 4.
ing narrow you will need to be careful not to

too far out over the edge.
to carefully
The edge bemove the plane

of the
This
is
also an excellent opportunity
keep the plane
parallel with the
edges
piece
>
'
as
shown
in Fig. 12.
It is
improper to swing the heel
of the
It
plane at an angle on the forward stroke in doing such work.
not only wears the plane out of true, but hinders you from
doing the best work.

After this edge
to the
is
43
correct, place a face-mark

as
one on the face-surface

ends of
essential that the
on it pointing shown in Fig. 43. It is not the two marks meet at the corner.
LESSON
The marking gauge
lines parallel with
10
MARKING GAUGE
(Fig. 44)
is
a tool for use in drawing
an edge.
It consists of
two principal
parts,
the
block,
or
head, and the
beam,
parts
or bar.
i
To keep the
in
is
wff^'FFlWBBH
place
fe~'
there
a thumb
uf
u"~
Fig.
fgB
44Marking
made by
in
screw or some
similar arrange-
Gauge
ment
shape
in the head.
The
by
~
line
is
the small metal point
called the spur or

of the
a pencil
shown
in the opposite end.
The
spur
is
shown
Fig.
45.
The
fit
manufacBefore the
turers usually
the spur with
a conical point.
gauge
is
used the point should

the proper form.
is
be
filed to
The marking gauge
not
usually supplied with a pencil

Fig. 4
5 Point
of Gauge Spur
point by the maker, and therefore

if
you wish
pencil line you will bore a hole through the

pencil into
it.
it to make beam and fit
a a
The
pencil point should be short.
(Fig. 44.)
44

You
will
probably find some graduations on the side of the

to those
gauge beam similar

for
on your
If
rule, but
do not use them
they are not usually correct.
they are correct, the spur
Fig. 4
Setting Gauge
if
may
you
not be at exactly the end of the scale and, therefore,

set
the head by the scale the space which would be
marked by the spur

would not be correct. Because it is not safe
to use the scale
Fig.
on
set
47
-Pocket Rule
the side of the gauge
beam you should

the gauge by holding
it
and the
is
rule as
shown
in Fig. 46.
Notice that the rule

four fingers are
held in the right hand so that the
around the rule and the thumb underneath,

Notice
also
with
the
end against the gauge-beam.

left
that
three fingers of the

first
finger
on top
of
of
hand are around the gauge-beam, the the gauge head and the thumb against
head
directly
the
side
the
place
gauge
your
below the beam.

in
Be sure
to
hands and fingers
exactly
this

manner;
exactly.
it
45
will
enable you
to
set
the gauge
quickly
and
As
lines are
made
to
work
to,
it is
important that you
make
diffi-
the lines correctly.

culty a beginner has
lines.
It is often
is
discovered that the main
caused by carelessness in making the
Because
in
of a belief that the lines are of little conseis
quence they are carelessly drawn and much time

spent
trying
to
afterwards
lines
make
the parts
fit.
If
the
had
been
half
correct,
the work could have been better done with
the
labor.
Be very
careful in
setting the
lines
gauge and which you
drawing the lines and in making any other

require in your work.
If
you
will
examine your
will find
is
rule,
which should be a No. 84
or a No. 62,
you
the rulings which are on the outside
edges, as the rule
folded to six inches, are inches, half
inches, quarter inches

present, pay
and eighth inches.
(See Fig. 47.)
At
no attention to any of the rulings except these. In the No. 84 rule these marks are along the brass binding. Notice that the one-half inch marks extend about half way
across each side, that the one-fourth inch marks extend to or
past the line farthest from the
edge and that the one-eighth
inch marks are the shortest ones on the scale, extending about
to the first line.
rule, as all
Be
sure to
fix in
mind these
features of the
after this
rules for practical

If
measuring are made
general plan.
you become
familiar with these
markings you
will readily learn to
use any ordinary scale.
Your next
bit of
work
is
to
draw
lines
on the face-surface
After
all
or face-side of the piece
you have planed.

will
the lines
have been drawn, the surface
appear as shown in Fig. 48.
In this figure the outer lines represent the edges of the face-
AC

The
four inside lines represent the lines
surface of the piece.

to
be drawn.
The
short vertical lines which terminate in arrow
1
-.
hfij
|
~f
Fig. 4
First Surface Lined
heads are called dimension
lines.
Notice that each line has
cne arrow head

arrow head
at
at
the lower or border line of the figure
and one
an inner
line.
This designates
that the figures
on the dimension
line
tell
the distance
from the edge
to that line.
The
)l inch
spaceissosmall
that there
is
not
room for figures

andarrowheadi
between the
two
lines.
The
Uge Line
arrow
are
head.-.
therefore
placed outside of the lines, with points just touching them to

indicate which lines are intended.
The
figures are
placed

between the two
Study
are to
this
lines,
47
in
line with the
two arrow heads.

lines
is
drawing until you are certain how the gauge
be drawn.
The
it
line
2 y
inch from the face-edge
the easiest to draw, and therefore you

z y
may
set the
gauge
to
inch, holding
and the
rule as
shown
in Fig. 46.
Take the gauge
in your right
hand holding the piece against

the bench-stop as shown in Figs. 49 and
50.
right
Notice that the
arm
is
parallel
with the
piece
you
is
are gauging.
still
This
more
easily
seen
in Fig. 52.
The gauge must

be held so that
its
its
beam
ing
for
rests
upon
edge instead of
rest-
upon the spur, if it rests upon the

it
spur
will
be impos-
sible for
you to draw
Gauge Line
grain.
rest
an even line in wood which has uneven

is
Fig. 51
its
shows how the beam

it
rolled to cause
it
to
upon
edge;
also
shows how the spur

surface.
slants instead of
being perpendicular to the
gauge, take the position shown and
upper to the lower end
of the piece,
To learn to use the move the gauge from the but with the beam rolled
After
so that the spur will not touch the wood.
making
this
48

roll
movement several times, the beam so that the

surface, but not
to
spur will just touch the
enough
In
make
use
full line.
the
of
the
gauge
of the
watch the position
beam and head by looking under the beam and

next the head so that
you can see

is
if
the head
firmly against the faceas
edge,
the
Fig.
indicated by
49.
arrow in Fig.
of the
The holding
51
Rolled
head
is
Gauge
against the face-edge
very important, for

if
the head
is
not
the
tight
against
face-edge, theline
will
not be correct.
Gradually
the
roll
beam until
the
spur enters the
wood enough to make a line of the

proper weight. As
the
gauge
nears
the lower
the piece
end
it
of
Fig.
may
52
Rolling
of Line

be necessary
53 shows
to roll the piece as
49
to avoid hitting the
shown bench with the head

from the opposite
in
Fig. 52,
in order
of the
gauge.
Fig.
this rolling
side.
Notice that the
right arm is parallel
with
the
piece.
After
you
have drawn the
set the
to
gauge
inch and
line
draw a
inch from the
fac e -e dge. Next draw a

line 1
inch from
the face-edge,
and then a
1
1
line
inches from
Fig.
the face-edge.
53 Rolling Piece at End of Line

11
LESSON
bench against the
PLANING TO WIDTH
Place the piece on which you have drawn gauge lines on
top of the
stop.
stop.
Do
not drive
it
against the
Plane the second edge down to the gauge
line,
making
tryline,
is
the piece
\%
line
inches wide.
Test this piece by using the

If
square as shown in Fig. 42.
you plane exactly to the
and the
is
correct,
the one test with the try-square
50

you are
likely to plane
sufficient, but as
beyond the
line, or
it
perhaps the line

several ways.
as in Fig. 29.
may not be correct, you had You may examine it by sighting

Another
at
better test
in
for straightness,
is
test of considerable
importance
to
measure the width
several places by applying the rule as
shown
that
in Fig. 54.
it
In using the rule to measure with,
should be held so
is
the graduations are against the surface which

It
is
being
against
measured.
best to place the
end
of the
thumb
the edge of the piece to assist in adjusting the markings of the

rule to the exact position desired.
In using the rule, use the markings away from the end,
if
this
can be done.
In Fig. 54 the scale
is
placed so that an inch line

is
at
the edge
by the facemark.
It is not
incorrect to
hold
it
so that
is
the inch line

at the
opposite
edge.
Always
hold the rule in

this
manner
for
measuring and
you will soon do

Fig.
54
Measuring Width
with Rule
as
accurate
as
is
measuring
the average mechanic.
little
You
will
probably find that the piece

setting the
1
'
less
than
'
inches.
If in
gauge you
set the
pointofthespurexactlybehindthe
inchline, and then planed

the line entirely away, the piece
too narrow.
is
51
one-half the width of the line

at
This
is
because the spur bruises the wood
each side of the point and makes a line of some width.

this reason, in setting the
For
gauge
for
planing to width or thickwill
ness,
it
should be set so that the inside of the line

In
all
give
the correct space.
other gauging, set the spur exactly to
the line on the scale.
by measuring the width of the piece, you discover that it at one end than at the other, set the gauge to the Plane to this line the narrow end and draw another line.
If
is
wider
same
edge
as in planing to the 1
2 y
inch
line.
Remember
to test the
edge with the try-square

is
as well as
by measuring.
When
this
correct, pass to the next surface or
second side withface-marks,
out putting any the one on the
mark upon
this
edge.
The two
edge, (Fig.
37) and the one on the first 43) are the only ones used to denote face-surfaces,
first
surface, (Fig.
or that the surfaces are finished.
LESSON
The gauge should now be
Fig. 66)
set to
12
PLANING TO THICKNESS
1%
inches, (See Drawing
and
If
lines
should be drawn along each edge
\%
inches from the face-side.
Lines should also be drawn across
each end.
in drawing these lines
you stand
lay
at
the end of
the bench near the bench-stop, you can place the piece against
the stop in drawing the long lines
of
and
it
down
at
the corner
the bench, as shown in Fig. 55, while drawing the lines
across the ends.
Remember what was
said in the previous lesson about set-
ting the spur so that the piece will be full size after the entire
52

been planed away.
If
line has
in planing the
first
surface you
is
planed away so
1
'
much
of the material that the piece
less than
4 inches thick, you may set the gauge to the thinner end and draw a line entirely around the piece and then plane down
to this line.
The
fourth surface or second side
may be
tested by meas-
^^^^^^
uring as in Fig. 54, and
also by
sighting for
if
straightness, but
you
are careful to plane exactly to the

lines,
is
the
the
only test required
testing from line to line
^ ^
as on the first surface, shown in Fig. 25.
When
piece
is
you think the
finished, take the
r
_. Fig.
try-square and rule and

test
it
in
every way that

to see
if
55
Lining-
Across End
,_
can, you J
you
have overlooked any

accuracies.
If
\
in-
you find any errors, go carefully over the work Follow the same order and the same direcfirst
it,
and correct them.

tions as in
working the surfaces the

first
time.
If
necessary,
test.
go back to the
surface
and true
then repeat every
53
LESSON
13
finished
LAYING OFF SPACES DRAWING OF SCALE

Lay on the bench the piece which you have
Fig. 56.
planing and hold the rule on edge on the piece as shown in
Notice that the rule
is
placed on the piece so that
there
is
about
inch of
wood
projecting
beyond each end
of
the rule.
Do
this
not attempt to
measure
amount
jection,
in
of pro-
but
place the rule
position,
leaving an equal amount

of projection at
each end
nearly
as
as
you
Fi?-
can judge with-
56 Rule
in
Place for Marking Spaces
out
measuring.
These projecting ends are to be cut

off as
the piece
,
is
finishe d
act length
and
of
therefore their exis
no
in
consequence.
Take your knife
I
your right hand
and make a mark

opposite each inch
Jj
Fig.
57
Detail of Knife in
Hand
graduation and at
54

of the rule.
each end
left
Fig. 5
shows the knife and rule from the

great care
side.
These marks should be made with

square out from the
rule.
and
should
this
extend
In order to do
work accurately, you must be very particular about how
you hold your

knife.
/=/>.
Do not hold
58
your knife so that

/
thehandle extends
upward between the thumb and

hand and underneath the
first
forefinger, but rather in the
finger as
shown
in
the picture.
The
.
knife
should have a
sharp point
similar to those
.,
.
..
Fig. *
59 Pocket Knife
shown
in Figs.
58and59. The handle should

not be too large
or too
small.
The benchknife. Fig. 58,

is
not equal to
good pocket
very
knife, but will
do
It
well.
should be
kept with as
sharp a point as
the width of the
blade
will per-

mit.
55
The
ordinary difficulty with such knives
is
that the blades
are too long.
They should not be more than
% inches
long.
Sometimes
for
smallhands the handle also should be shortened.

knife, Fig. 59, has a handle three inches long,
The pocket
and
is
about
6%
inches long from tip to tip of the blades.

all lining.
The
little
blade should be used for
The
large blade
Fig.
61
Knife and
Try-square
is
sufficient for whittling
round ends such
as are
used in racks,
chairs, etc.
After a
rule aside
mark has been made at each 1-inch line, lay the and place the try-square on the piece; the head
against the face-edge, two fingers on the blade, two against
the piece, and the

try-square as
thumb against the middle of the head of the shown in Fig. 60. Place the point of the knife
56

made
in
blade in one of the marks
laying
off
the spaces and

careful to hold
move
the try-square up to the knife blade.
Be
the knife blade as shown in Figs. 56 and

After the try-square
is
5 7.
in
position,
is
draw a
line
entirely
across the piece.
Be sure the knife

of
held in the same posi-
tion during the entire process
lining.
Continue to draw
lines in this
manner at each
head
of the
mark
end
the
until the
try-square extends to the

of the piece.
Reverse
try-
piece
and the
square, holding
them
as
shown in Fig.
drawing the
After
all
and finish
lines.
the lines are
drawn
take
at
the inch spaces,
the
piece
and
line.
try-
square as shown in Fig. 62
and examine each

draw again
If
any are found to be incorrect,

at
that
point, being careful to set
the blade by the original

Fig.
62 Testing Lines
part of
line
at
on Scale
knife
trying
if
it
mark and not

until
to
a
a
crooked
straight
the
line.
Keep
even
is
it
you have
injure
every
inch
does
the
appearance
that
of the piece, for
of
much more consequence

that
you learn
to
draw the
lay
lines than
your piece has no
extra lines.
The next
step
is
to
off
the
'
_.
inch spaces and draw

lines
57
from the
line
which
is
one inch from the face-edge

knife in the
to the
face-edge.
as in
Hold
the try-square and

lines at the 1
same manner
drawing the
inch divisions, reversing
when
required to keep the head of
the try-square on the face-edge.

for testing the
Test these lines in the same way as directed

1
inch lines.
(Fig. 62.)
1
1 1
11
X X
1
1 1
1 1 | 1 |
|
hi
III
II
III
Ni
III
III
III
III
Mi
III
III
IN
III
III
ill
X
ill
ill
ih
X m
1,
ill
Fig.
63
Scale
Lay
which
is
off
inch spaces and draw lines from the line the one-half inch from the face-edge to the face-edge.
Draw and test these lines the same as the 1 inch lines. Lay off and draw the lines at the }i inch spaces. You will need to be very particular about these lines or the spaces will not be equal. Lay the rule on edge on the piece and examine If it is all correct, the scale is comall the spacing carefully.
plete
and
will
appear as in Fig. 63, and
if
not,
you had better

as
make another scale on the opposite side. Draw gauge lines on the back-side the same
against the face- edge.
you did on
the face-side, being careful to hold the head of the gauge
line across
In order to locate the scale on the opposite side, draw a one edge, place the point of the knife blade in the
of the first
end
inch line and
move
the try-square up to the
58

same
as in
knife blade the
drawing the
line for the scale.
(See
Next place the knife point in the end of this line and draw a line across the back side. If the face-edge is next to you, the knife may be held as shown in Fig. 65 in setting the
Fig. 64.)
try-square.
The
line
is
then
drawn
in
the
usual manner.
(Fig. 64.)
In lining around a piece
it
is
better to set the try-square
by the
line
on the
face-edge, even
though the one on
the back-edge has
been drawn.
If
you have a
scale
of
on both sides
your piece, set
the marking gauge

to
enough
the
less
than the thickness

of
piece
to
allow
for
planing
off
the scale
Fig.
and
64 Selling Try -square

scales
at
Corner
draw
the
off
lines
along
each edge. Examine
the
and plan
to
plane
off
poorer
one.
After tne lines have

test the
been drawn, plane
the scale and
piece as you tested the fourth side, Lesson 12.
Be
have
very careful to plane exactly to the lines or you will

trouble getting the piece in proper shape.
Set the marking
gauge
of the
to
K inch and draw lines on each edge with the head

it.
gauge against the side which has no scale upon

Extend
all
59
the lines which
entirely across the surface.
mark the half inches on the scale Extend these lines down on each
edge to the
lines
which are
/ic
inch
from the other side. Be very careful to
havethe lines
meet exactly at the

corners. Place the
knife as
Fig. 64
shown
as
in
and draw
you
line
Fig.
the
line
were directed to
draw the
across
the edge,
that
65 Setting
Try-square
at
Comer
except should
you
stop at the line which
is 3 Ag
now
inch from the edge.
The piece
will
then appear as in Fig. 66.
]g
X
ire
1,
III
III
,1, III
,1
! l
,1
1,
III
III
.1. Ill
III
,1, III
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1
ill
HI
III
III
III
III
III
III
III
III
II
III
III
ill
Fig.
66 Piece
Lined for Sawing
60
LESSON
SAWING
The back-saw
metal
is
14
(Fig. 67) has so thin a blade that a piece of
placed along the back to keep the
bhde from bending.

Back-saws are
used
for cutting across the
tf&
Fig.
grain. Tenon saws may be similar to back
saws except that they
67- Back-saw
are filed so that they
can be used
the grain.
that
it
for cutting either across the grain or parallel
with
These
are
now seldom
used, as saws are so cheap
is
much
better to have two saws, one to

grain.
saw across the
and one to saw parallel with the hook on the bench and the
grain
Place the bench-
piece lined in Lesson
13
upon
it
and grasp the backin Fig. 68.
saw as shown
Notice that the thumb

is
against the saw
and upon
Notice
the
wood
close to the back
edge
of the piece.
that the first finger (Fig.
69) extends along the side

of the handle.
Place your
thumb
knife
so that the saw will
cut up close to one of the

lines
which extend
entirely across the surface.
Be
sure that the
saw leaves
the smooth edge
made by
Fig.
68
Holding Back-saw

the knife.
61
Move the saw forward and backward the

teeth of the saw close to the
length of the
blade, the lower edge of the side of the blade resting against your
thumb and the

ting
this
it.
wood but not
cut-
(Fig. 68.)
Move
the saw forward and backward in
manner without do-
ing any sawing until you
understand the motion

thoroughly.
Look
at
the angle
of the
formed by the side

the piece.
saw with the surface
of
This should
be an exact right angle
and if you are careful you

can hold the saw so
will be.
it
To
first,
assist
your
set
eye, at
you can
a try-square as shown in
Fig. 70.
serve that
You
if
will
obFig.
the move-
ment
69 Detail
of Sawing
of the
saw
is
is
cor-
rect, the wrist

will also
rigid
and the elbow the moving

this
joint.
You
be supporting the saw with your hand.

you have studied
When
saw
just
movement
is
until
you under-
stand exactly
how
the motion
made, you can lower the
enough
to allow the
teeth to touch the

cut,
still
wood
at
the
back edge, but not enough to
keeping the wrist

as
rigid,
and holding the saw
at
the
same angle
shown
in Fig. 68.
Move
manner,
the saw forward and backward several times in this

lifting
it
entirely
from the wood on the back stroke.
62

let
it
Then
it
cut a very
little
on the forward stroke,

saw
still
lifting
on the back stroke.
After the kerf (the
channel which the
makes)
you
lift
is
well
started
will
not
need
the
to
the saw on
stroke
back
and
can lower the handle a

very little. The thumb may now be moved to
the position
Fig. 69.
shown
in
As you lower the

handle, watch the knife
line to see that the
is
saw
but
cutting close to
it
not roughing the edge

Fig.
70
Try-square
at
Side of
Saw
of the
wood.
At each
forward
stroke
lower the handle a

little until
the saw has the

position in
shown
71.
Fig.
After sawing a
little
more the
saw
tion
should
shown in Watch
Fig.
have the posi-
Fig. 72.
71
Sau

as the kerf extends across the surface
63
constantly for the right angle at the side of the saw and as soon
watch the
it
line at the front
edge
it.
to see that the
saw
is
cutting close to
but not roughing
Stop after each few strokes and examine the back edge. See
that the
it.
saw
is
cutting close to the back line but not roughing
On
the side of the saw-kerf opposite the line at the back
side of the piece,
the edge will be
roughened because there

is
no
knife line on that

side.
to
at
If you wish have the wood
both sides
of
the saw smooth,
you must draw

two lines just
fir
Fig-
72 Sawing,
Fourth Position
between them. Continue sawing until the kerf extends to the lines which are 3Ae inch from the bottom side of the piece. Be careful to saw exactly to these lines and no farther, for the piece is to be bent and if the saw cuts too far the piece will break instead of bend. Fig. 73 shows the piece after it has been bent. Saw at the same side of each line which extends across the piece. Turn the piece end for end as soon as it will make the holding easier.
to allow of sawing
enough apart
Fig.
73 Piece Bent
64
OUTLINE
After completing the study piece
make an
will
outline showing
of great
will
each step in making
this piece.
This
be found
value, for, in working the pieces for the
bench-hook ycu
need
to recall
the order in which the sides
and edges
in
are
worked, the
off
tests for
each surface, each operation
laying
spaces, drawing lines,
and sawing.
65
LESSON
You have
learned to plane
all
15
BENCH-HOOK
four sides of a piece so that
the surfaces will be true and so that their ends will be of the
same size and shape. making simple things.
You can now use

little
this
knowledge
in
The bench-hook
requires but
knowledge beyond
that
required for making the scale, except for the end planing.
Be
Fig.
74
Bench-hook
same
very particular to true each surface exactly as directed in
making the
order.
scale,
using the same tools and in the
Because these pieces are fastened together, any care-
lessness in jointing the edges or truing the surfaces will be dis-
may show badly. Try to forget all about the fact making a bench-hook and try to feel that you are simply studying. This will help you to keep your mind on the work, for it is much more interesting to see how well you can do than to simply make something to use. If you do your best you will be rewarded many times, for you will be rewarded every time a surface or end is finished. Fig. 74 shows the completed bench-hook. It consists of three pieces of wood and eight nails. Fig. 75 is a mechanical
covered and
that
you
are
66

2|V0
Eli
u3
.i
<\l
vo
-Jh
*tf

drawing
piece
is
67
of the
complete bench-hook.
nails.
In
this
drawing, each
shown, and also the
Usually, in such drawings
the nails are not shown.
you
They are shown in this one so that them correctly. You will notice that This is because they they are represented by dotted lines. The heads are full lines or circles, in the are out of sight.
will
be able
to drive
front elevation, because, as
we
look at the edge of the bench-
hook,
If
we
you
see the nail heads.

will
look at this same view where the nail heads
show (the
line
front elevation
we
call it)
you
will see
a dotted line
almost the entire length of the elevation.

is full,
At each end, the

trace the line
because the ends
of
the wide piece
the side pieces.
From these ends you can

is
show beyond and

is
learn that this dotted line
to indicate that the
wide piece
the same thickness from end to end.
By using dotted
lines,
we
indicate edges that are not visible.
The plan shows

nails
it is
the wide piece and the dotted lines for the

of the side pieces.
full lines
and the edges

called,
This view, or plan, as

if
shows in
what you would see
you were
it.
to place the
bench-hook on the bench and look down upon

see between the views
lines are
You
figures.
will
The
made
fine
other lines.
They terminate in The figures are dimension lines.

and
and some to distinguish them from the arrowheads and are called
fine lines
for
some
the purpose of giving
the sizes
are called dimensions.
These dimensions are
not to give the size of the picture or drawing, but the size of
the real bench-hook.
size indicated
Sometimes the drawing

In drawings
for
is
made
the
is
by
the figures,
but more often the drawing
smaller than the object.
very small articles
the drawing
is
made many
times larger than the object.
68
Fig.
76-
Jointing
Edge
in Vise

If
69
you
will
apply your rule to this drawing, you will find
that the side pieces
which are marked 12
in. are actually just
three inches long, or one-fourth the real size of the object.
draftsman would say that the drawing was

one-fourth, or
other parts of
made to the scale of three inches to the foot. You can measure the drawing and find that it is all made to a
is
scale of one-fourth.
At the right of the front elevation and the plan,

part of the drawing.
this is
a third
This
it is
is
called an
end elevation. Although

it
a small view
quite important, for
shows one end
of
each piece and how they are placed together.
Read
sides.
all
the dimensions on this drawing before beginning
work, and then dress up the 4-inch-wide piece on the four
As you do
in the
this
work, see that every surface

as the study piece.
is
worked
and tested
to 14.)
stop,
it
same order
is
(Lessons 4
As the piece
too wide to rest against the benchIf
may be
held in the vise as shown in Fig. 76.

is
the
stock which you have

called for
sizes as
too small to
make
a piece the size
by the drawing, then make the piece as near these Be sure, however, to always work to lines, gauging for both width and thickness.
you can.
LESSON
After the piece
line
is
16
PLANING ENDS
finished on
all
four sides, draw a knife

J
entirely
around one end about
32 /
inch from the end.
(Figs.
64 and 65.)
Place the piece in the vise so that the
end will not be more than y inch above the bench, as 2 shown in Fig. 77. The piece is placed thus low in the vise
70

it
because
center.
will
plane easier.
Take
the smooth plane and sight

is
the bottom (Fig. 12), to see that the bit
cutting at the
Hold the plane
as
shown
in
Fig. 77 or 78.
The
some-
picture shows the plane at an angle of about forty-five degrees.
This
is
usually the best angle for cutting the grain, but
>
Fig.
77
Planing an
End
times the plane
will
cut better
if
held
in
at a
different angle, or
planing an edge or side. Unless you are certain that some other angle is better, you should hold the plane as shown in the pictures. Always move
the plane parallel with the edge
at
held parallel with the
edges as
whatever angle held.

points to
There are three very important
remember
in

planing an end.
First,
71
do not plane entirely across the end;
and then either reverse the piece or step to the other side as shown
in Fig.
usually about two-thirds or three-fourths of the distance,
78.
Second, stop between every
stroke while the
plane
is
between you and the piece, (Fig. 79) and see exactly
Fig.
78 Planing an End
Third, always have a where you wish the plane to cut next. and stop so close to the line that there will be no unevenness, and yet the smooth, glassy surface made by the knife remain. This is not so difficult a matter as you may suppose, for if you will see exactly where each
knife line to plane to,
72

is
shaving
to
be cut, and move the plane so slowly that you

it
can look into the mouth of the plane and see how
ting,
is
cut-
you can make the end correct the

tryit
first
time.
Test the
end with the
square, holding
against the side as

in
Fig.
80,
and
edge
against the
as in Fig. 81.
Be
the
sure
to
use
face-side
and face-
edge
in
making
fail
these tests.
If
you
to
make the end true,

read
all
of these
directions
again,
then draw another

lin e
ent
ir ely
around the piece

not more than fa
inch from the end
and
try again.
Continue studying the directions
and
re-lining
and
it
** 79-Bami^gBa
is
re-planing the end until

practice but study that
right.
will
made true. Remember it is not make possible doing the work

finished,
After the
first
end has been
measure the length
73
given in the drawing and draw a line
around the other
end of the piece. Saw about % 2 inch

from the
Figs. 64
line
(See
and 65),
to
and then plane

the line.
able to
You should be make this

first
if
end square the
time trying, but

Fig.
80 Try-square
you do not, then

on Side and
End
re-line
entirely
around the end and try again.

Although to have
the board shorter
than the drawing

calls for is a seri-
ous
mistake
and
should not occur,

yet
it is
far
worse
to leave
the end
it
without making
square and smooth.
Fig.
81
Try-square on Edge and End
74
LESSON
MAKING THE
hook, take the piece which
wide, dress
directed in
as
it
17
SIDES.
After finishing the wide piece for the bottom of the benchis
12
'J
inches long and 4 inches
square and finish the ends.

first
Proceed exactly
as
making the
for
it
piece.
Make
the piece as wide

all
it
you can,
is
to
be ripped
center.
in two,
and
the waste
to less than
material
may be taken from

fine
Do
i 6
not plane
3 n/io inches, for this will allow but
inch waste for ripping,
and unless you do very
sawing you
will require this for waste.
As
marks
this
piece
is
to
be ripped
Fig.
in two,
you should place face-
as
shown
in
82.
This figure also shows lines
drawn around
the
edges
for
chamf eri ng.

Draw
for
the
line
ripping by
setting the
Fig.
82- Piece for Sides
gauge
at
inches and
draw
lines
on both surfaces and across the ends from one

l
T
face-
edge; then set the gauge at
j 1
inches and draw the lines

'..
on both surfaces and ends
for
the
inch piece.
The piece is now ready to be ripped unless it is to be The methods of chamfering are given in the next chamfered. The following lessons on the ripsaw and ripping lesson.
should be studied before attempting the ripping.
niece has been ripped, joint the edge of each piece.
After
the
In case you
it.
have sawed beyond the line draw another line and plane to
75
LESSON
18
CHAMFERING.
A simple way of ornamenting a piece is to bevel the edges. When this is done as shown in Figs. 82 to 86, it is called
chamfering.
places.
Such beveling
of corners
may be used
in
many
of a
Chamfers need not extend the entire length
corner, but for the present
we
will
consider only those which
do, because these can
be made with a com-
mon plane. To do the chamfering,

lines
at
draw
pencil
around the board
an equal distance
from the corners on the

surface,
and on the
ends and edges.
The
chamfer may be on
either the face-surface or the back-surface.
For
this
piece
is
Fig.
83 Chamfering End
the
chamfer
on
)
the face surface (Fig. 82.
Usually the lines are the same dis-
tance from the edges
In this drawing ( Fig. 75) they are

at
% inch
from the corners, therefore set the gauge
inch and draw
the lines without changing the gauge, for in gauging for a
chamfer we do not always hold the gauge against a face-surface

or face-edge, but against the edges
which are to be chamfered.
This not only saves time, but
is
better, as
we want
the cham-
76
fers equal, and if we gauged all from the face surfaces they would not be alike unless the piece were the same width at
each end.
Use
a pencil in
marking
lines
for
chamfers and draw
across
ends as well as
edges (Fig. 82).

In working the chamfer,
place the piece in the vise and
hold the plane as in Fig. 83,

that
is,
at
an angle
of
about
forty-five
degrees with
should be
the
edge.
It
moved
as indi-
parallel with the
edge
cated by the arrow.

Fig.
84
Testing Chamfer
line.
Plane until the beveled or
chamfered
from
Test
it
surface
extends
line
to
with the blade
of the try-square as
shown
in
Fig.
84.
Be
careful not to
plane beyond
the
lines; rather leave
about half the width

of
each
line.
After chamfering
each end, place the
piece
Fig. 85
as
shown
In
in
Fig.
85 Chamfering Edge
is
and chamfer
working the
edges, the plane
the
edges.
held and

moved
finished
parallel with the
77
edge.
After both edges have been

in Fig. 84, test all the
and tested
as
shown
chamfers
by measuring,
Fig. 86.
They
all
should
of
be
the same
if
width;
they
if
vary, see
you
the
can
find
mistake and
correct
it.
Do
not fail to make

all
the cham-
fers alike
and
such work
Fig.
86
Measuring Chamfer
straight from
line to line, for
is
spoiled by even a slight irregularity
or rounding of the surface.
LESSON
RIP
shape in a picture.
19
the same size and
in Figs. 87
SAW AND HAND SAW.

Either style of back
The ripsaw and handsaw may appear
shown
and
88 may be used.
The
difference
is
in the shape of the
teeth.
Fig.
As
the
the
87 The Common
Grades of both Handsaws and Ripsaws are Made this Shape
handsaw is
for cut-
ting across
grain the points of

its
teeth are shaped like the point of a knife blade.
(Fig. 89A.
78

teeth of the backsaw are similar to those of
a handsaw.
The The
ripsaw
which cuts lengthwise

to
its
of the
board has chisel
shaped points
teeth.
(Fig. 89B.)
Ripsaws are usually

larger than
hand-
saws.
The
saws
Fig.
is
fitting of
too difficult
88- Some of the Better Grade of Saws are
for
you to under-
Made
this
Shape
take until you are

familiar
with the
uses of the saws, as well as careful and precise with tools.
When
fitting.
it
your saws require
fitting
take
them
to an expert in saw
Do not
think
sufficient to say that
youwantthesawfiled,
but
tell
what kind
of
work (rough or fine)
you wish
it
for
and the
will
kind of wood; he
fit
Handsaw
Fig.
B Ripsaw
Teeth of
the saw for that
89
will
Saws
particular
also so
work and
be more
easily
shape the teeth that the saw

is
used by
one who
not skilful in
its
use.
LESSON
RIPPING.
There
are
20
of this
two ways
in
which a piece
size
may be
for the
held in the vise for ripping.

first
Probably the better way
attempts
is
were wider
it
If the piece shown in Figs. 90 and 91. would be held as shown in Figs. 184 and 185.
as

Place the piece well
79
down
Begin
in the vise so that

at the front
it
will
not be
moved by
piece.
the sawing.
edge, starting the
saw in the same manner as the back-saw in sawing the study
Be
sure to start
the saw on the forward

stroke.
to 73.)
(See Figs. 70
The most
to
to
serious
mistake you are likely
make
If
in ripping
far
is
saw too
from the
far
line.
you saw
you
will
from the line because
you
fear
saw
will
into the line
you
not have
a sufficient
guide
for the
saw and
will
consequently
poorly.
saw
The ripsaw
is
should cut smoothly,

therefore there
no
need of sawing far from

the
line.
You
should
plan to leave the line
and a narrow
This
strip
strip at
Fig.
90 Starting Ripsaw
can be and not break away
Yss
the side of the line.
should be as narrow as
it
as the
sawing proceeds.
less.
If in
This need never be more than
inch
and may be
ripping where both pieces are to be

is
used, the amount of waste
more than required
for
one saw
bU

kerf,
two
kerfs
should be made.
Save time and avoid changing

the
vise
piece in the
so
often
by
making both
at
kerfs
the same time.
After the saw kerf
extends along the

top end and a short
distance
down
the
side next to you,
Fig.
91
Starting Ripsaw
remove the piece from the vise and
reverse
it
as
shown
in Fig. 92.
As soon
as the
saw nears the
end of the kerf on the

back
the
side,
reverse
piece again.
of the
first
This reversing
piece should at
be done
sufficiently
often to avoid saw-
ing on the side of

the piece away from
the worker.
As the
sawing becomes
better
understood.
Fig.
or

the reversing
81
need
not be done as often.
Continue sawing and

reversing the piece
until the ripping
is
completed.
As you near the

lower end hold the
piece as shown
in
Fig. 93, so that the

vise
edges
need press the but lightly

Fig.
and thus avoid bruising them.

If
93
Finishing Ripping
will
the rip-
ping has been done properly the edges

Fig. 94. ings
at
appear as shown in
teeth of the saw
This shows the mark-
made by the
different
the
angles
as
the
piece was reversed.
The edges should now be

carefully
jointed.
Often
it
is
best to remove the
face-marks
and place one on the side opposite
the chamfer after examining

it
the surface to see that

rect;
is
cor-
the edge should then be
jointed to the
new face-surface. The complete bench-hook (Fig.

74) shows the mark changed in
this
Fig.
94 Edges
manner.
of
Sawed Pieces
LESSON
NAILING.
21
The common adzeye hammer, hammer required for your first work.
and the head
steel.
(Fig.
95)
is
is
the only
The handle
are
hickory
Both the face and the claws
tempered.
The face, which strik es the

nails,
is
tem-
pered much
harder than the
Fig.
95 Adz Eye
Nail
Hammer
claws.
If
the
claws were very
hard they would be broken in use.
The
if
sides of the
hammer
head are so
soft that
they
will
bruise
struck against nail heads
or other hard objects.
Fig.
96
Starting Nail
Lay one
of the
narrow pieces upon the bench and

in Fig. 96.
start a
6d wire
to
nail as
it
shown
in
Drive the
it
nail just
enough
make
remain
place.
Examine
carefully from
two

directions, as in
nail tion,
is
83
examining the
bit,
(Figs
140, 141).
Ifthe
not at right angles to the surface as seen from each direcit
move
with the
fingers to the perpendicular,
then drive
it
very little more and ex-
amine
but a
it
again.
Be
sure to drive the nail

little at
a time,
it
to allow of placing
before
it
is
so far in
will
at-
the wood that it bend when you tempt to move it.
Start the four nails in this
Fig.
97 Locating Nails
To determine how
far from the
manner.
The
edge
drawing (Fig. 75) indicates their location.
to drive
them,
place the wide
piece on the
narrow one and
then judge the
center
of
the
piece (Fig. 97.)
Mark
the loca-
tion of the nail
with a pencil.
Drive the
Fig.
98 Piece
in Position
nails so they will
84

enough
to
prick through just
keep the piece from slipping when

Place the
its
placed on the edge of the wide piece as in Fig. 98.
narrow piece so that
edge
it is
is
even or
flush, as
called, with the face
of the
wide piece and

nail a
little.
drive one
Examine the piece carefully and if correct drive

another nail a little. Continue driving the nails a
little at
a time
and examto
ining
Fig.
the
piece
it
be
in
99
Setting Nail with Nail
Head
certain that place.
is still
After
the nails
have been driven so the

heads are flush with the
wood,
99,
set
them by using
it
a nail as shown in Fig.
striking
hard
enough to drive the

heads about fa inch below the surface; or nails
may be
nailset,
set
by using
a
in
as
shown
are
Fig. 100.
There
styles
of
several
nailsets,
the
best for this work being
shown
in Fig. 101.
Fig. 1
00-
Setting Nail with Nailset

Nail the piece
85
on the other edge

to
in the
same manner.
Look the bench -hook over

set
see that the nails are properly
and the edges
flush.
If
Fig.
101Nailset
Fig. 1
02 Planing
Joint Flush
the edges are uneven place

the bench-hook in the vise as
shown
a very
in Fig.
little
102 and plane

to
at the joint
,
make
will
the pieces flush

it is
You
easier
see that
much
to
smooth the
than
joint
when
the
sur-
edge projects beyond the

face
when
it
does not
extend to the surface.

If
you have occasion
to
withdraw a nail, a block
maybe
placed under the head of the

Fig. 1
03 Withdrawing Nail
hammer as shown
in Fig. 103.
S5
LESSON
Now
that
22
of
SHARPENING THE PLANE

you understand something
of their
how
planes
are
used and the necessity
being sharp you can try to

sharpen
fore
to
them.
Be-
doing anything
iron
remove the plane examine all the
parts carefully so that
you will
remember
are placed
to return
how they
them
and be able
to place.
To remove
Fig. 1
the
plane iron grasp the
04 Lifting Cam
This
Lever
cam
lever (Fig. 104)
with the
finger
thumb and
iron,
and
lift it.
will
loosen the cap, which can then be
pulled endwise and removed.

place
it
Next remove the plane
on the
bench and with a
screw driver
loosen the plane
iron screw, (Fig.
105).
Pull the
plane iron cap to
the position
Fig. 1
05-
Loosening
shown inFig. 106

Place the oilstone in the vise and grasp and tighten the screw Rub it backward and the plane iron as shown in Fig. 107.

forward on Ihe oilstone, holding
it
87
at exactly
the same angle
throughout the stroke.
The
which
angle at which
that
at
it
should be held should be a
little
greater than
it
has been
ground, but must not
be as great as the angle

at
which
it is
held in
the plane.
To be sure you are

getting the correct
angle in whetting the
plane
set the
bit,
you may
Fig. 1
plane near the

(Fig.
06 Sliding Cap
Iron
oilstone
107)
at
and compare the angle
which the
bit stands in the plane
with the angle at
which you hold the

bit while
it.
whetting
You must always

it
hold
at
less
angle than the one

at
which
it is
held
in the plane.
The angle made

in
Fig. 1
grinding must
07 Whetting Plane
Bit
be
less
considerably
than the angle
at which it is to be whet so remove much metal.
that in whetting
you need not
88

After you have
become accustomed
to cut a
to
using the planes

bit
and are strong enough
wide shaving, the plane
may be
first
nearly straight across, but in your

bit
work the
should be quite roundIn order to
ing as
shown
this
in Fig. 108.
produce
at
rounding end hold the iron

stroke, but
the
same angle thruout the
first
press on one edge and then on the
other edge.
In sharpening planes as in
Fig. 1
all
other
08
End
of Plane Bit
grinding and whetting of tools the position of the
edge on the abraiding surface
is
often altered to avoid inequalities in the

surface.
This usually necessitates the

at
If
holding of the plane bit

the edges of the oilstone.
is
an angle to
the surface
very rough or hollowed by long use
or
by careless whetting, the plane

will
bit
may be held nearly parallel with an edge.

This
not give as good results and
if
time can be spared for truing the stone,

it
should be done. At
first
you can examine the edge

for
by looking
the
fine,
is
smooth
part
between where the stone

the extreme edge.
cutting and
as this line
As soon
disappears, test the edge

ing your finger on the
bit
first
by draw-
flat
side of the
Fig.
out over the edge as indicated by
109
Fig. 109.
This
is
to sec
if
the edge
Feeling for

has been turned or a wire edge formed.
thin bit of the
89
A
it
wire edge
is
a fine
to
edge which
is
is
so thin that
bends or turns
either side as the tool
rubbed over the
oilstone.
Fig. 110 indicates the form of a wire edge
and how
it is
it
is
produced.
visible.
This wire edge

very
is
usually so fine that
scarcely
It is
much
exagger-
ated in the drawing in order to indicate

its
shape.
So long as the wire

tool will not cut
edge remains the

well.
It
may be broken off by rubbing on a piece of wood or on the

Usually the best way to
is
Fig.
110 Sketch
of Wire Edge
oilstone.
remove a wire edge
to
by
the plane bit on the
flat
side and
move
it
against the edge as
shown
in Fig. 111.
remove the wire edge the
first
time trying.
may not Be very careful in rubbing the

This
plane
the
flat
it
bit
on
side to
hold
flat
down on the
for
if
stone,
you do not, a
small
will
Fig.
angle
be made
Ill
Removing Wire Edge

It will likely
on
this side of
the edge
which
will
do much harm.
turn the edge as indi-
cated by the sketch.
(Fig. 112.)
Hold the
iron again as in Fig.
107 and
move
it
it
forward,
pressing very lightly and being careful to hold
at the
same
90

it.
angle you did in whetting

as indicated
This
will again turn the
edge
the
by the sketch, Fig. 110.

holding
it first
Continue
to
rub
edge
112
lightly,
as in Fig.
107 and then as in Fig.
until the wire
edge
is
removed.
fvWWXWWXWWWAV^VVWVWTtrr^
by looking
Examine it often both at it and by drawing

it
the finger over
as in Fig. 109.
Sometimes you
Fig. 1
may need
to
12 Wire Edge
is
Reversed
draw the finger over each side

in order to
find out
which way
edge
the edge
is
turned.
Watch
carefully to see that the wire

It often
removed
entirely across the end.
breaks away at the
center without breaking away near

the corners.
As soon
is
as
you think the edge
sharp, hold the iron as
shown
If
in Fig.
113 and
test
it
by drawing
it.
the ball of the

it
thumb over
is
sharp
it
should easily cut the

If it
outer coating of the skin.
does not appear to be sharp, rub

it
again on the oilstone, this time

at
rubbing lightly but

angle as
at first.
the same
is
Another way
to test the
If
edge on a piece
of pine.
the cut shows a clear, glassy
surface, the
is
edge
is
sharp.
This
it
good
test after testing
on
Fig.
I 1
3 Testing Edge
for
it
your thumb, so do not depend
upon the wood

is
test
but learn to test
it
with your thumb,
much
easier
and quicker.
91
After finishing on the oilstone the edge may be improved by rubbing lightly upon a piece of leather (Fig. 114) as it was rubbed on the oilstone, except that it is lifted from the leather or strop on the return stroke and is rubbed away from the edge as indicated by
the arrow.
When
that the
you are sure

is
edge
sharp,
place the plane iron cap

in position ,
its
lower end
about
y-i-2
inch to
inch
above the cutting edge.

Put the iron in place and
the cap over
it
and press
Fig. 1 1
Stropping Plane
little
down the cam lever. Hold the plane as shown

bottom
until
of the plane.
in Fig. 1 1
and turn the milled thumbbelow the

of scrap
nut until the cutting edge projects a very
Try
it
on a piece
wood and
keep turning the thumb-nut or adjusting the

it
lever, Fig. 11,
cuts a fine shaving at the center of the plane bottom.
LESSON 23 GRINDING THE PLANE
BIT.
After the bit has been whetted several times the end becomes so blunt that it cannot be easily sharpened in this manner. There is so much metal to be removed that it requires too much time and the angle at which you must hold it will be so near the angle at which the iron is held in the
plane that
it
will
not cut
when
sharp.
92

To remove
this large
amount
of
metal the iron

faster
is
held on
a revolving stone
which cuts much
than the oilstone.

as
The
iron should
be held free-hand against the grindstone
shown
115.
in
Fig.
Do
tempt
not atto grind
the edge sharp
enough
for use,
but remove the

larger part of
metal, and then
refine the
edge
oil-
with the
Fig. 1 1
5 Grinding Plane Iron
stone.
to have
Be
sure
plenty
of water
on the grindstone so
moisture
that the plane bit will not
be
injured by the heating of the thin edge while grinding.

sure to wipe
all
Be
off
the plane bit
and cap
iron before
returning
them
to the plane.
LESSON
Fig. 116
Fig.
is
24
CUTTING BOARD
a drawing of a cutting board with plain edges.
117
illustrates
a cutting board with chamfered edges.
The two
and,
in
are typical of boards
used
in
cutting bread or meat

etc.
larger sizes, for

in
kneading bread, molding pastry,

are
The processes used

ever the size,
making them
large
much
the same what-
unless so
for
that
two or more pieces of
lumber are required
one board.

If
93
you have, before beginning on
this board,
made
1
the
first
study piece, (Fig. 66) and the bench-hook (Fig.
74) you
should be able
to
make
a cut|*
ting board, or
42
4#-
any similar
board, as well
as a
good me-
chanic.
Mak e
00
complete scale
drawing of the
board you wish
to
make.
Be
Fig. 1 1
careful to fol-
6 Cutting Board
directions
to a reference, look
it
it.
low
all
come
study
stand
and when you up and

fully
until
you
under-
Select the best
side
of
the
board for the face-side and plane

it
true, testing
and planing
as in
sur-
Lesson 4 on planing the

face of the study piece.
directions in Lessons
first
Follow
to
17,
excepting as changes are desirable
on account
it
of the size.
it is
In
planing a wide piece

better to place
Fig. 1 1
usually
across the bench

of the grain
7 Cutting Board
and plane crosswise
94

shown
in Fig.
as
118.
the piece, but held at an angle.
and the direction

after
is
is moved straight across The amount of the angle determined by the way of the grain.
The
plane
Cross planing should usually proceed very systematically and
each cross planing the

the board
piece
should be
turned and
pianed in the usual manner.

If
is
in
wind, you should plane diagonally a part

of the time, planing
at
most
the high corners.
The second edge

worked
of
in the
is
same man-
ner as the second edge
thebench-hook piece,
too wide for your
(Lesson 15) unless the

piece
is
gauge.
ranged
Some gauges
ar-
have long beams

for
wide pieces,
little
but you will have so
use for a large one that
you had better work the

piece without the gauge
Fig. 1 1
Cross Planing
at
if
yours
is
too short.
Lay
you
the piece on the bench,
and mark the width

mark.
This
each end as shown in Fig. 119.
If
have a straight edge, you can draw a pencil line from mark to
will
be necessary
to
if
you are
to rip the piece.

in ripping.
Figs. 184
If
and 185 show how

but
little
to hold a
off,
wide piece
there
is
be dressed
you can plane from end
to
end
until the
edge has been worked to the line or the two marks.

site
95
Next gauge the thickness of the board and dress the oppoIn working such pieces where usefulness is not side.
it is
impaired by variation in thickness

lar to
usual not to be particufor,
make them
gauge
to
the exact thickness the drawing calls
but
to set the
the thinnest cor-
ner and work the

piece to that thickness.
Finish the ends

the
same
of the
as
the
ends
bench-
hook (Lesson 16). Be sure to draw the

knife lines entirely
Fig. 1 1
Measuring Width of Board

lines.
around them and plane exactly to the

board, unless
it is
This finishes the

of sand-
to
be chamfered, with the exception
papering.
If
Directions for sandpapering are given in lesson 25.

to
you wish
chamfer the board read the directions
for
cham-
fering the sides of the
bench-hook (Lesson 18).
LESSON
There are a number
of
25
SANDPAPERING
kinds and grades of sandpaper.
first
The
flint
only kind required for your
work
is
what
is
called
paper or sandpaper.
1>
The
grades you require are, Nos.

finer grades
1^2>
and
0.
There are coarser and
than
these, but they are not

is
coarser than No.

are
1.
needed for ordinary work. No. 1^ appears to be almost smooth. No.

the paper with a coating
These papers
made by covering
96

glue,
of
and then with
coating
of
some
is
abrasive
subif
stance, such as ground
flint.
The paper
amount
of
very tough, and
properly held will stand a large
rubbing.
Before the paper
is
used, the surface seems to cut the
hand
partly
it
is
rubbed over.
little
use of the paper on
wood
it
fills
the cutting surface with
wood dust and makes

is
cut
smoother.
Sandpaper which has been used
often better than
new
for finishing.
well as a matter of
You will find it an essential to the best work as economy to use sandpaper until it is worn out.
To do
prevents.
either
this
you should
settle
upon
a certain size piece
and
always tear the paper to that size unless the nature of the work
The
small pieces
in
of
the original sheet are used
on a block or
the hand.
it
When
are
a block
is
used the
paper should not be fastened to
but held in position by the
hand
as
shown
in
Fig.
120.
There
many
is
places in which
a block should not be used.
block
is
as a rule
used only
is
upon
large surfaces.
If
no block
used,
the sandpaper
manipulated with the hand and

block or in the hand,
it
Whether used on a should be torn in the same manner

fingers.
and
to the
same
size.

The
10
2 y
97
ordinary size of a sheet of sandpaper
is
9 inches
by
inches,
and
it
should usually be torn into four pieces,
each
4%
inches
sheet, rough side
by $% inches. This is done by laying a down, upon the bench top, placing a backat
saw or some other small saw across the sheet

then pulling up
at
the center and
one corner,
as
shown
in Fig. 121.
Do
not
use the rule in determining the center of the sheet, but place
Fig.
121
Tearing Sandpaper
Tear each
half
the saw as near the center as you can judge.
again and you will have four pieces of proper size for use.
Just what grade of paper should be used cannot
until
be stated
one knows the kind
of
wood, and how smooth the planing

1 or
has
for
been done. Usually No. surfaces and edges, and No.

is
No.
or
2 /
Y
is
coarse
for
enough
If
\y 2
No.
ends.
the work
to
finer grades.
be nicely finished these should be followed by Sometimes this is continued until No. is used, Only by experimenting
but usually two grades are sufficient.
98

you be able
to
will
select
the proper grades for your work.

finer
Soft
wood
usually requires
paper than hard wood.

is
To
first
produce
fine finish for polishing
No. 00 paper
required.
finish
In sandpapering the cutting board (Fig.

the under and then the upper surface.
116)
Use
it
the paper on a
block as shown in Fig.

grain.
If
120,
moving
lengthwise of the
or edges.
will
Be very
careful not to
work too near the ends
you rub much too near the edges, the outline
be
(^
Fig. 1
22 Sandpapering
Surface with
Hand
in the center
spoiled, for the paper cuts faster at an

of a surface.
edge than
After you have
done what you can with the sandpaper on

and take the piece
in
a block, lay the block aside
your hand as
shown
in Fig. 122.
Examine the
surfaces especially near the
edges and smooth any spots that were not properly smoothed
with the sandpaper on the block.
Next hold the board and
paper as shown in Figs. 123 and 124 and smooth the edges.

Be
careful not to round the corners,
as
this
is
<J9
mark
of
shiftless
workman.
at
To
avoid this the hand must not rest
flat
upon the edge but
an angle as shown in Fig. 124.
Do
not
Fig. 1
23 Sandpapering Edge
with
Hand
retain the
fin-
gers in the
same
place on the
sandpaper, but
change
position
their
often.
Sometimes the
sandpaper
in Fig. 125,
is
held as shown
but
usually a block
is
not required
Fig.
124
Sandpapering Edge with Hand
100

if
on the edges, and

sandpapered.
used
it
should be thinner than the edge to be
Fig. 132
shows such a block.

is
Sometimes the
held with both
work
hands
is
held in the vise and the sandpaper
as shown in Fig. 126. The chamfer is sandpapered

is
in the
it
same manner.
Because
care
chamfer
narrow and because
is
important that the edges
remain sharp,
much
is
it
needed
properly.
to
sandpaper
Fig. 127 shows

is
how
this
done.
first
In your
attempt
stop
at
sandpapering,
quently and
fre-
examine the
rule
wood with the

with
su: prise
is
and the
rapidly
trysquare and you will note
how
If
the surface
changed by
you do
the sandpapering.
the work properly, the surfaces will
be
as square
and
true to the edges as before.

Fig. 1
25- Sandpapering Edge

Narrow Block
with
If
by mistake or carelessness
you
you have injured the true

outline of the edges,
had better replane the surfaces and

very careful not to
try
sandpapering again.
Be
make such
a mistake, for after sandpaper has

in
been used,
particles of grit
remaining
the pores of the
wood
will rapidly dull
the plane.
In sandpapering a small end, place a piece of sandpaper
on a smooth surface and hold the piece
vertically
and
firmly

upon
it
101
as
shown
in Fig. 128.
Notice that the fingers are close

it
to the lower end.
Move
the piece from you, lifting
from the
paper on the return

stroke.
Go
slowly, be-
ing careful that the top
end does not move about.

Test the end with the
trysquare
and you
will
discover that the sand-
paper cuts faster on the
edge
farthest
from you.
This necessitates turning

the piece after every few
strokes.
Do not attempt
for
if
to
remove much material

manner,
you
Fig.
in this
126- -Sandpapering Edge Both Hands

of squaring
with
rounded and there

In
do the end will be is no easy way
it.
sandpapering cylindrical pieces, the paper
is
folded
around the piece and

held as shown in Fig.
129 and moved lengthwise of the piece. Sometimes it is better

to revolve the piece in
the paper at
first.
The
finishing should always
be done by moving the

paper with the grain
Fig.
of
127 Sandpapering Chamfer
the wood.
One
diffi-
102

is
culty about sandpapering such work
to
avoid slanting the
surfaces
near the
ends;
therefore
rub the
In
paper over 'he

all
ends
less
than you do along the center.
sandpapering,
watch
to see
how much
the paper
is
cutting.
Fig.
28
Sandpapering End
The proper grade

kind
of
of
paper to use depends so largely upon the
wood,
size of cylinder
and the planing that you must deter-
mine the grade by
trial.
Begin with
paper.
If
it
too fine
rather than too coarse a
does not cut
down
the plane marks,
try a coarser grade.
Use
the coarser paper only
enough
plane
to
remove the
Follow
marks.
with finer grades until

the desired smoothness
Fig. 1
29
Sandpapering Cylinder
is
produced.

The sandpapering
same plan
as the
of a
103
rounded edge follows much the

of a cylinder.
It
sandpapering
consists
of
two distinct operations first, the
removing
of
the
plane
marks and second, the smoothing
of the grain of the
wood.
As the paper cannot be folded around the edge without injuring the surfaces it is held on a block and the block moved across the plane marks at the same time it is moved lengthThis has much the same result as rollwise. See Fig. 130.
ing the cylinder in
the folded sheet of
paper.
After the plane
marks have been re-
moved
is
in this
way
(Fig. 130)the edge
rubbed length-
wise with the sand-
paper
first
on the
Fig.
block and then in

the hand.
130
Sandpapering Round Edge
More than
one grade
ance
of paper will be required to give a proper finish. As you work with sandpaper you should watch the appearof the surface to learn
are affected
of
by the rubbing.
how the different grains of wood You should compare the effect
soft,
sandpapering on hard
wood and on
on end grain and
lengthwise of the grain.
Notice also how the paper cuts the
medullary rays of oak and the porous grain about the large rays.
In sandpapering woods having a hard close grain, alternating with a soft porous grain, the sandpaper must be used without a block, for a block will cause the soft porous grain to be
104

For such surfaces
all
cut below the harder grain and a proper finish will be impossible.
sandpapering must be with the

all
sandpaper carefully folded beneath the fingers and nearly

the rubbing done upon the firm parts of the surface.
requires so
This
much
skill that
woods having great contrast

and
to
in grains
is
should not be used in elementary school work.

certain to give incorrect ideas of finishing
Such use
do
much harm.
Lastly
fully
done,
and most important, see how little rubbing, carewill produce the smooth satiny surface suitable for
receiving the finish.
He who
gets the result with the fewest
motions
is
the best workman.
LESSON
faces.
26
flat
SANDPAPER BLOCK
Fig. 131 illustrates a rectangular block for use on
sur-
See Fig.
120.
132),
The block with the thin edge (Fig. may also be used on a flat surface,
especially adapted for narrow spaces
but
is
or edges. Fig. 133 will be found convenient for use

in
corners and in smooth-
ing
rounded ends
Fig. 134
after
they have been whittled.

Fig.
13!
is
for large
Rectangular Block
hollows or internal curves.

All of these forms should
be carefully made,
all
surfaces being straight
and square, true angles or curves.

the directions given
for
Follow
planing surfaces,
ends and edges
in first lessons,
132
Edge

These blocks
inches
are usually
105
wide and
Ji
inch thick.
made about 4% inches long, 2j{ The paper should not be
fastened to the block, but held in
place by the hand.
Sometimes a
soft
pad
is
placed
between the block and the paper,

but generally this
is
not best.
pad makes possible the smoothing

of
uneven surfaces without working
them down
to a true surface.
Fig.
This
is
133 Block for Use in Corners and in Small Curves
often an ad-
vantage on cheap commercial work, but

usually should not be used in school
Fig.
134 Block for

in
work.
The
straight
will
smooth block,
if
Use
Large Curves
properly used,
produce a better
surface, especially
on woods having a
coarse
grain such as oak or
mahogany.
LESSON
The counting board
for
is
27
COUNTING BOARD
scarcely
more than a study piece,

is
such boards are so seldom used that their value
really
nothing.
As a study piece the counting board

value
if
is
of considerable
it
is
made according
it
to the drawing.
for
if
(Fig.
136.)
to
Do
not
make
less
than 11 inches long,
you attempt
106

is
plane a piece which
much
less
than 11 inches long before you
have a better understanding

likely
of the principles of planing,
you
will
form bad habits and get erroneous ideas of using the plane.
Fig.
135 Counting Board

in
If
you have been very successful

you wish
to
end planing you can

said about cutting
cut the corners as indicated by the dotted line on the drawing.

If
do
this,
read
all
that
is
corners in Lesson 29.
- //!"
Hfl
O O
O O O
ÔOOOOOOOO
,
O O C+O O O O O O O O O OÔ O O O O O o O O GÔ o o o o o o p ,o a+o o o o o o o

J
1
,..
Fig.
136 Counting Board
sure to
all
The chamfering is done as directed in Lesson 18. Be make every chamfer straight and of correct size. Keep
the corners sharp.

To
the face-edge.
107
locate the holes, draw pencil gauge lines parallel with
Lay
off
on one
of these lines the
spacing for the
holes and with a trysquare and knife draw short lines across
each gauge line, locating the holes.

there will be exactly
fifty
If this is
done properly,
besides
for
places
marked
for boring,
the five tally holes at the top.

boring.
Lesson 28 gives directions
LESSON
BORING
besides
28
There are other things requiring attention in boring holes
making the brace go around.

its
If
you
will
study each
thoroughly and in
quite as well as the
proper order you
will
1M
soon bore holes

t=>.
ordinary mechanic,
^^^gg^^,
I
^ Ê^
though you may
li
I!
not work as rap-
First
examine
the bit and learn
/W^Tll Ep^y iS^-^*^

Fig. 1
^HJ^^m ^wf
7 Bit-brace
and the
differ
bits,
the purpose of
each part.
The
fits
square upper end, or tange,
into the bit brace,
round part or shank, gives length so that deep holes can

be bored.
The common auger
bit
only in length.
and the dowel bit Dowel

for
being easier
to use,
the beginner
in
all
may be used
bor-
ing not requiring the longer

bits.
There are many shapes
108

sizes of bits
bits.
and
but
at
present
we
will
consider only the
auger
There
are three important parts at the cutting

bit (Fig.
end
of the
138).
The screw
helps to place the bit and pulls

it
into the
wood.
The
spurs
AA
cut across the grain of the

lips
wood and the

All bits
CC cut
at
the bottom of the hole.

are held in the
brace in the same manner. By

turning the milled sleeve at
the lower end of the brace
(Fig. 137) the jaws are
to receive the tange
Fig.
opened
and shank.
139 -Setting Bit

is
The
sleeve
then turned
the bit
in the
is
oppo-
site direction until
held tight.
The
placing of the screw is of con-
siderable importance.
In order to see
is
the point and the lines the bit
held
obliquely as
shown
is
in Fig.
139, but
before pressing the screw into the wood

the position
(Fig. 140).
changed
in
to
vertical
Then
turn the brace not
more than once

which the hands
the direction
a
of
in
of
watch move.
the bit and
Fig.
Observe the position

brace.
Are the angles formed with
140
Bonng

the surface of the piece right angles?
109
After judging with your
eye place the trysquare as in Fig. 142.
Hold the brace
in the
same position and step

in Fig. 141.
to the
end
as
Examine the
bit
again looking for
the right angles the
same
as before.
Move
see
if
the trysquare to the side and
you judged correctly.
Turn the
bit
brace another turn and repeat the two

tests.
Be
at
careful to
examine the
at
from just two positions, one
the end
and one
the side of the piece.
Con-
tinue turning the brace and examining

to see that
it is
boring at right angles
to the surface until the hole
pleted.
is comEach succeeding hole should
Fig.
141
Boring
trysquare
require less examination, until two or
three
changes
of
position
are
ampl e.
less
Use the
and
less until
you
can do the boring without

it.
Bore the holes

screw pricks
until the
through, then turn the
piece
over
and
finish
the holes from the opposite side.

as
Be
quite
careful in finishing
as in starting the holes.
Fig. 1
42 Try-square
at Side of Bit
110
WOODWORK FOR THK GRADES
LESSON
The
first
29
BREAD BOARD
work on Fig. 143
is is
the same as on Fig.

four points at the
to the
116.
Next, the end
laid out
by locating the
end
and edges according
drawing (Fig.
144) and drawing knife
lines to these points.

it
To use
Fig.
the trysquare, hold
as
at
shown
in
145,
where the head
the blade
touches the piece.

it
Do
not attempt to hold
without having the head in contact with
the edge.
Lines
may be drawn on
but one face or
on both surfaces and edges.

on the
Fig.
The
with
lines
edges
may be drawn
the
143
Bread Board
16*
Fig.
144
Drawing of Bread Board

trysquare in the ordinary
111
manner
or the
gauge may be
set
and
pencil lines drawn as

at
shown
in Fig. 146.
This affords points
which
lines
may
sur-
be drawn on the
back or under
face.
Saw the
lines,
corners
to near the knife
holding the
piece on the bench-
hook
Fig.
as
shown
in
Fig.
147.
After
145 Lining
Corner
sawing,
plane to
the lines the same as in planing an end.

that the
You
will notice
is
more
slant to the corner, the less
need there
for the
plane to be
held
at
an
If
is
angle.
the edge
tapered
very
much
the plane should be

held parallel
with the
edge. Fig.
Fig.
146 Gauging Corner

This piece
If
148 shows
how
piece
is
held in planing the corner.
the may have
square edges, or chamfered edges.
they are to be cham-
112
Fig
147
Sawing Comer
fered, follow the directions in

in
Lesson 18.
to
A common
mistake
chamfering such pieces
is
make
the chamfers too large.
They should be
than
ful to
'
not more
4 inch.
Be
care-
use a well sharp-
ened pencil point in ihe gauge and then work

exactly to the lines.
If
you wish to have a hole by which to hang this
board, locate
in
it
by
measuring as indicated
the drawing, Fig. 144.
Bore the hole, following the directions

g
148
-Plar:
in
Lesson 28.
113
LESSON
Fig. 149
is
30
Such edges may
on the
draw a
ROUNDING AN EDGE
a view of a rounded edge.
be used on boxes and many other
articles as well as
breadboard.
(Fig. 143.)
To round
surface,
the
edge, after
it
has been squared,
pencil line along the center with a gauge and a line on each
wkh
the gauge set at the same space.
The rounded
as in
surfaces are formed with a plane used
and held
chamfer.
(Figs. 83 to 85.)
^
Fig.
making a
150 Section
Round Edge
of
The
Fig.
difficulty in
is
rounding an edge
149 Rounded Edge

it
the opposite of that

in
chamfering.
make
the sur-
While making a chamfer you found

face straight from line to line; in
difficult to
making the rounded edge, you will make it too straight, unless you attend closely to the form. Fig. 150 illustrates the difficulty by showing an edge, the darkened portion indicating the material to be removed in rounding it. By examining this illustration you will see that very little of the stock is cut away near the lines and that much less is removed than would be if a chamfer were made between the same lines.

114
LESSON
SHELF
the
31
The making of a shelf requires much same directions as the making of a

Usually a shelf,
be-
cutting board.
cause longer, requires additional directions.
Before making a shelf read the
directions for planing in Lessons 1 to
11 and those for
making the cutting

planing
board.
The
pieces,
only additional directions
you
long
will require are those for
trimming
corners
and
be
UU
planing long curves.
When
planed
at
a piece
is
too long
to
one stroke with the

one
of
foot in
one
position,
If
two methods may
be used.
times
to
it is
an edge, and someis
when
it is
a wide board, which

is
be planed, the plane
started in
the usual
way and then kept moving
by taking one or more steps so that

the plane passes the entire length of
the piece.
is
The
is
other method, which
usually
followed in
to
planing
long
wide surfaces,
sections.
*
This
is
by done by beginning
plane them
SI
151 Shelf
on one corner and working across; then and still planing another section, another, in a similar manner, until the
entire surface has
Fig.
been planed.

Fig.
115
152 represents the
first
section planed.
Fig. 153
represents the second section planed.
Fig. 154 represents the
Fig. 1
52 First
Section Planed
surface after
it
has been planed the entire length, the shaded
portions indicate where the plane was raised
and lowered.
The
Fig. 1
53 Second
Section Planed
darkest places
show the low spots
in the surface of the board.
These are removed by again going over the surface systemati-
Fig.
154 Third
Section Planed
cally.
In finishing the surface the plane should be set very

carefully that there will
fine
and the shavings taken so
be no
116

marks where the plane begins to cut or where the shaving
visable
runs out.
The
the
manner.
may be dressed on both surfaces in the same The edges should be finished by taking a shaving entire length. In sawing pieces of this length they may
shelf
Fig. 1
55 Sawing Ends
in
be held on the bench by using two bench-hooks as shown

Fig.
155.
Finish the ends the same as the large piece of the
bench-hook (Lesson 16). The corners of this shelf may be cut off where indicated by the dotted line; being done as in
making
Fig. 143.
17
LESSON
SHELF
edge.
face,
32
The new feature of this shelf (Fig. 156) is the curved The edge may be lined either free hand en the surby making and using a
nails,
pattern,
by use
of a strip of
wood
and two
or a nail
and a
pencil, as
shown
in Fig. 157.
Fig.
156 Shelf
The nearer
straight
of the stick or
bar must be.
you wish the curve the greater the length In your first attempts at drawing
at the
such curves, you may guess
length of the rod.
The
Fig.
157 Drawing
Circle
curve
made by
the pencil in moving over the shelf
is
called an
is
arc of a circle. radius of the arc.
The
distance from the pencil to the nail
the
118

This distance or radius
is
one-half the diameter of a

as the shelf edge.
comrip-
plete circle having the
same curvature
If
you have a narrow

set
saw with a wide

teeth,
to the
at
you can begin
one
the
in
end
the
of the shelf
and
rip
along
curve,
ripping
off
waste material as shown
Fig. 158. Notice that the rip-
saw
If
is
held nearly horizontal.
you have no such saw, draw
straight lines tangent to the
curve and rip to them.

After ripping, smooth the
edge with a plane

Fig. 159.
as
shown
in
You
will find
the
plane a good tool

Fig.
for
working
158 Rippir.g Curve
such curves.
Be careful
to plane to the
line, for
short
any
true
variation
from the
curve
will
show badly. This shelf may be chamfered as shown in Fig. 1 17 cr rounded

as
shown
in
Fig.
Fig. 149.
159
Planing Curve
119
LESSON
If
33
MANTEL SHELF
you have made successfully
all
the pieces up to Lesson
30, you should be able to
make
this shelf.
Work each
piece
to the sizes given in the drawing, (Fig.
162)
Fig. 1
60 Mantel Shelf
i
7 jk
'
r.-Jr
Fig.
161
Testing A ngle of Brackets
120

By making the
shelf supports or brackets
in
one piece
will
as
shown
in Fig.
163 and then cutting them apart, you

able to
less
be
make them
nicer and in
time than by working each
piece separately.
The holes
in the
back for fastenThis
ingtothewallshouldbel6inches
from center to center.
is
to
make
the holes correspond with
the centers of the studding in an
ordinary frame
house.
In any
-Qvg
change of size or form which you plan you should keep this space
the same or use
some multiple
Fig. 1
63
of this space.
be modified
yet the shelf
The outline may many ways and be made with such

in
tools
and processes
the
as
you
to-
K-5f
already understand.
In fastening
gether,
first
parts
fasten the brackets
Ti
to the
shelf to the
If
Fig. J
back and then fasten the back and brackets.
Test the position of the brackets
62
by placing a trysquare in each corner as shown in Fig. 161.
121
LESSON
A
34
SWING BOARD
swing board though apparently a simple thing to make
and one which can be undertaken at any time is by no means as simple as it appears and should not be undertaken until all the work up to Lesson 29 has been successfully accomplished.
Fig. 1
64
Swing Board
164) follow the directions
for
In making the board (Fig.
planing out of wind, jointing edges, etc. given in these lessons.
To work
the oval edges draw pencil lines with the gauge
Fig. 1
65
Swing Board
122

}' z
on the two edges

face surface
inch from the face-surface and on the
\y z
of
inches from each edge.
These
lines
are
at
the
edges
the shaded portion in the drawing, (Fig. 165).
Form
the edges by planing, following the directions for round-
ing edges given in Lesson 30.
Lay out the holes and notches

from each side.
pieces, using a rip-saw
as the surface
is left
at
the ends.
Bore the holes

triangular
(See Lesson 28.)
Saw out the

Notice that the
slips
and sawing on
sawed.
the lines with great care,
just as
shaped
opening
is
formed so that the rope

of the hole.
through a space nar-
rower than the diameter
LESSON
This
is
35
FOOTSTOOL
the most simple form of footstool.
Its
beauty
lies
in simple outline
and perfect
nicely.
is
finish.
Be sure
to select
lumber
is
which
will
finish
Oak with
large medullary rays
suitable.
Whatever wood
that
it
used, the top should be quarter
sawed so
will
not warp.
for
In making the top, follow the directions given

the cutting board,
face true
making
the sur-
(Fig.
116).
Be
careful to
it
make
and smooth.
After planing
as directed in
making
or torn
the
cutting board there
may
still
it
be uneven spots
as fine as
grain.
Sharpen your plane, set

does not
you can and go

sandpaper-
over the top surface and edges systematically.

If this
make
it
sufficiently
smooth
for
for
ing you must use a scraper.

see Lesson 36.
For directions
using a scraper
The
legs are
first
squared in one lon^ piece and then cut

to length.
after the
for,
123
The
scraping and sandpapering should be done

of the
doweling or inserting
screws has been finished,
in this latter work, the surfaces

it
may be marred and

to
if
the
scraping has been done,
would need
be done over again.
Either of two methods of securing the legs
may be
used.
The more common way

If
is
to use dowels, as
shown
in Fig. 170.
dowels are
to
be used place
the legs in position, one at a time
as
shown
in Fig.
167,
the face-
marks toward the

inside,
and make
at the
two marks
surface of
leg,
end of each outer

each
holding the
knife as shown,
mak ing
marks
the
on
Fig. 1
clearly
66 Footstool
both the legs and

the top.
Also number each leg and the corresponding place

in the as
on the top so as to replace them Set the gauge to each mark

draw
in
same positions. shown in Fig. 168 and

Place the knife point
lines across the ends of the legs.
each mark on the top and draw lines as shown in Fig. 169.
The
points at which these lines cross,
on both
legs
and top
indicate places at which to bore the holes for the dowels.
Bore the holes in the top as deep
as
you can and not leave
124

of
mark from the spur
the
bit.
Bore the holes in the ends
of the legs
about 2 inches deep.
Glue the dowels into the top

to dry, then
and allow the glue

glue
them
into the legs.

in place
Fig.
170 shows them
and the
tight
leg ready to be driven

to the top.
It is
down
often easier to
force
the dowels into place by

of driving.
If
clamping instead
but one dowel
leg
it
is
used
in
each
may be
located in the
same
manner as the screw. (Fig. 171) The other method of securing the legs is shown in Fig. 171.
Screw fastenings
be used
in of this sort
may
Fig.
many
places.
Fig. 1
6 7 Marking for Dowels

a drawing showing
172
is
how
the
the leg
if
and screw would appear

at
cut through vertically
center of the screw.
Drawings
of this nature are called sec-
tional
drawings
or
sections.
Fig. 173 shows the leg with the hole bored, the screw and
the hollow pin which
is
driven
Fig.
over the screw.
168
Setting
Gauge

After the end of the leg has been squared the center
125
is
located and a hole
is
bored large enough to receive the head
of
the screw and just deep
enough
to rest
to allow the
head
of
on the bottom be
the hole.
It is essential
that the hole
of the
required depth.
A
in the
piece of metal as
thick as will enter the slot
screw head
is
then
Fig.
driven into the bottom of
169 Lining for Dowel
the hole.
This
is
shown
in Fig. 172.
It
may be
driven to place by setting a screw over

it
and driving on the

the screw.
is
point of
This
piece of metal
to
keep the
screw from turning in the

leg as the leg
is
screwed to
the top.
The hollow pin must be

glued in place.
Place glue
on the sides
also
of the hole
and
on the
that
pin.
Place the
screw in position, being certain

Fig, 1
the
slot
in
the
70
Inserting Dowels
firmly to the
screw head
fits
over the
piece of metal.
Drive the
hollow pin
down
it
head
of the screw,
using a block
with a hole in
to admit the projecting part of the screw.
126

may be screwed
to the top.
After the glue has dried, the legs
Bore holes for the screws and use grease or soap in them.
The
Fig. I
71
Screw
of Leg
in
End
Fig.
172-
Section Through
Screw. Pin and Leg
Fig.
73 -Parts Ready
Pit Together
positions for holes are located by measuring from the edges or
by drawing diagonals and measuring from each corner.

This footstool may be made with
with leather.
a soft
wood
top covered
127
LESSON
SCRAPING
36
It is seldom that the surface of hardwood can be properly sandpapered directly following the hand planing.
Fig. 174 illustrates a
common
dif-
cabinet scraper.
ficult tool to
It is
not a
use
when once you

it
have seen some one use

erly,
propFig. 1
but
it
is
very hard to keep
74
Cabinet Scraper
in
order.
It
may be
held as
shown
in Figs. 175
and 176 and pulled towards you, cutting
a very fine shaving.
Sometimes
it is
moved
in the opposite direction

in
as
shown
177
Figs.
and 178, but for your work
an d
mal
hands, you had b etter

pull
it
toward
if it is
you and
necessary to
Fig. 1
75 Using
work in the opposite direction, you

Scraper, Pulling
should usually
change your position or the position of the piece. You can change the angle at which it is held in order to avoid its
either
"chattering" or making small irregularities in the surface.
128

it
Notice that the angle

the
makes with the
surface of the board
is
same
in all the pictures.
This angle should not vary and

will allow
should be as nearly a right angle as
the scraper to cut.

firmly
The more
you
hold the scraper,
at the
proper angle, the better

it
will
it
cut
and the
longer
sharp.
It
will
keep
should cut a fine
shaving without tearing
the surface
Fig.
I
on any
76
Using Scraper, Pulling

It is
hard wood, whether
moved
as in
with the grain,

it
planing or against the grain.

it
because
cuts smoothly
grain
against the grain that

in
is
so useful for
woods which have
both directions.
Only by using
a tool
which cuts smoothly
against the grain can
such woods be properly

finished.
In your use of the

scraper,
be careful
cutting.
to
see
exactly
it is
how and
where
Do
is
Fig.
not scrape
necessary.
more than
Some places
no scrap-
177
Using Scraper, Pushing
will require
ing;
some
spots of torn grain will require a great deal.

will
Somein order
is
times you
to
need
to scrape places
which are smooth,
make
the entire surface level.
most important matter

to avoid scraping the soft
129
grain
lines
lower than the hard grain.
Fig. 179
shows a surface with
drawn to indicate the various

it.
positions of the scraper in finishing

different forms of grain
The
lines are
placed on
and
to
at different
angles
indicate
how
the
should be placed and moved at

scraper
these places.
Lines
which cross indicate

that the scraper should
beusedatthetwo angles
in succession.
Some-
Fig. 1
78 Using
Scraper, Pushing
times the change should
be made
at
each stroke, but usually not so often.

it
After surface
has been properly scraped, sandpaper
as directed in
Lesson 25.
Fig.
79
Piece Lined to
Show Method
of Scraping
130
LESSON
TABORET
There are two
oret.
37
in the
results to
far
be gained
making
is is
of a tab-
The
first
and by
the most important
the learning
of something, the second and far less important

If
the taboret.
you are
to
get the greatest good from the work, you must

of
be careful about the design
the taboret.
If
you attempt
is
to
make one which

cult,
too
diffi-
you
will
fail
to learn
what you ought, and also

acquire habits which will hin-
der you in future.
The
for
taboret illustrated in
is
Fig. 180
difficult
enough
It
the
first
attempt.
requires
no
tools with
which
you are not

should
surface
It
familiar
and you
make
and
correctly every
joint.
little
makes
difference
first.
which parts are made

Fig. 1
80-
Taboret
Usually you
ter
will
succeed betthe top,
by making
first
then the mils and
last,
the legs
Carefully study the drawing
(Fig. 181) before beginning work.
The top The

is
is
made
the same as the cutting board, Fig. 117.
Chamfering may be omitted.

rails
to dress
may be made in either cf three ways. One way up a piece a little rno>e than /our times the length

of
131
one
rail
and
as thick
and
wide
then
as the rails are to be.

of this piece are
The ends
squared, to be sure
that they are exactly correct

as tested
from both side and
edge, as shown in Figs. 80
and 81.
Unless you have

not
a knife line to work to, the
end
leg.
will
make
a good
joint against the side of the
Be
sure to follow
all
^T
7H"
the directions given for end
planing in Lesson 16.

After squaring the ends,
two pieces
of proper length
for rails are
cut
off.
The
is
remainder of the piece
then worked in the same
manner, making the other
two
rails.
Another way
these four pieces
of
is
making
to take
\D
four pieces of stock, each

large
enough
all
for
one
rail
and dress them

square on edges.
straight
surfaces
and and
In order to
make
Fig.
them
all of
the same length,
you can hold them side by
181
Taboret
132

lines
side, face-edge up, in the vise as
two
across the edges,
shown in Fig. 182 and drawmaking the lines exactly the distance apart which you wish
the length cf the pieces to
be.
that
Plan,
if
you can, so
be very
that
will
one
line will
close to
one end, so
only the opposite end

require sawing
After the
two
lines are
drawn upon
the edges, remove the

pieces frcm the vise and
draw
lines entirely
around
each end of each piece.

Plane to these lines, sawFig. 1
82- Lining
ing
Ends
first if
necessary.
See
Lesson
16.
A third way of making the rails

is
to dress
little
apiece
more than
four times as wide

asonerail,toallow
waste in ripping.
Finish the surfaces,
edges and
ends; then gauge

for
width.
Rip
as
Fig.
apart the
same
inmakingthelegs
183 Ripping Rails

(Figs. 184 and 185.)
133
This
is
good way
to
make
each
is
all
of the
same
length, but requires too wide stock.
To
use pieces wide enough for two

all.
rails
probably
the best way of

directions
In order to do this, follow the same

as in
for jointing
making the
is
it
sides of the
bench-
hook.
width,
If
the stock
is
so wide that there
some
to rip off the
make
the piece as wide as
will
work, and rip the

Figs. 183,
waste from the center, (Fig. 183).
By comparing
184 and 185 you

will
see
how
to
hold wide pieces

in ripping.
As the
short
at
piece shown in
Fig. 183
it is
can be held
the center of the

vise
and both kerfs
without moving it. The piece shown in

Fig. 184
that
it
made
is
so long
Fig. 1
84
Ripping Legs
jaw in ripping the
rails
must be
This usually necessitates the
of the piece to the other
held near the end of the vise jaw.
moving
piece
a
end
of the
off
the other side.
If
the two pairs of

if
vary in length
little it
does no serious harm
they are used in pairs.
That
is,
those of equal length opposite each other.
The
As they
to
legs
are longer
may be made in the same manner as the rails. and may be sprung or bent, you will need
in planing
be careful
them.
They must be
square, or the
134

end
as
will
joint at the side near the top
not
fit.
In making the
legs use a piece
wide enough
each edge
for all.
Joint both ends

in Figs.
and edges
what
and
rip a leg off
shown
184 and 185.
Then
re-joint the edges

is at
and
rip cff the other legs, leaving
waste there
the center.
of this
(Fig. 183.)
In ripping pieces
width they are
all
sawed from one

they are very
side unless they are quite

thick.
If
if
thick, or
you have not
learned to saw, the piece
may be
Figs. 91
that
it is
reversed, as in
and 92 except
held in the vise
as in Fig. 184. to
In order
sufficient
saw
at
angle to
make the revers-
ing of value, the handle

of the
saw must be held
low. Fig. 185 shows
how
the piece
is
tipped as the
saw nears the end.

Fig. 1
85 Ripping Legs.
After
Finishing
all
the
parts
have been worked to the

all surfaces which Ends and surfaces which form the legs and the inside of the
proper sizes they should be sandpapered on

are to
be stained or finished.
ends
of
parts of the joints, the

rails,
of the
Only a strip near the edge need be sandpapered. This affords an excellent opportunity to demonstrate that you know how to sandpaper, keeping all the surfaces and edges true.
should not be sandpapered.
bottom side
of the top
135
LESSON 38 ASSEMBLING TABORET

After
all
the parts are ready to put together,
set the
legs
on end in the position in which they will be when nailed in place, and mark an X at each side where a nail is to be driven These into the side of a leg to secure the leg to the rail.
marks are not
to give
the exact location of the nails but to

lines for locating the nails
show you
at
what side and end the

Set the pencil
are to be drawn.
end
of the
gauge
to
one
half
Fig. 1
86 Drilling Holes for Nails

and draw a
light pencil
the
thickness of a
rail,
gauge
line
on
each outside surface,

of
(the surface opposite the face-marks)
each leg
at
the top end.
You
side
will notice
that
these lines
are not
on Lay the
surfaces
which have face-marks.
legs side
by
with their top ends even and
draw pencil lines to mark position of the nails. (Fig. 194) J If you have made the rails of proper width, one line will be 2
136
and the other 2 inches from the end. removing the clamp, draw lines from the ends of these lines to locate the holes on the other side. Place each leg in the vise and drill holes for the nails as
inch from the end,
After
shown
fj
Fig.
in
Fig.
186,
using an automatic
dri11
-
187
Automatic Drill
If
you
drill
each
where the
lines cross,
drill
the nails will
hole at the point meet each other in the

little
piece, therefore
lines,
the holes on one side a
above the
and the holes on the

as
little below the shown in the
other side a
lines,
figure.
The automatic
(Fig. 187)
is
drill
worked by
point in
placing the
position,
drill
and pressing end-
wise on the handle.
Hold
the handle at right angles

to the surface so that the
nails will enter the
ends of
the
rails
properly.
Start the nailsthe
same
as in nailing
the bench)
hook, (Lesson 21
the piece as
Hold
in Fig.
shown
188.
Hold the
of
face-side
of the leg
flush with the
face-side
the
rail
and

the
137
end
of
the
leg flush
is
with
the face-edge
first
of
the
it
rail.
Drive the nail which

little,
next the top,
driving
but a
the other nail a
and then examine the piece, and, if it is all right, drive little. Examine the piece again, and if corNail the leg to the opposite end
that before driving the
rect, drive the nails in flush.
of the rail in the
same manner, except
second
nail, the
piece
should be
examined
(Fig. 189)
the same as in looking

for
wind.
Nail the
second
same
nail
pair of legs in the
manner, and then
the two pairs together.
Test them carefully for

wind, and when
all
are
correct, set the nail-
heads about
1&2
inch,
using a nailset, (Fig.
101)
Nail
blocks
into
each corner as shown

in Fig.
190.
These
Fig. 1
89 Looking for Wind
blocks whichare called

glue blocks
may be made by
dressing a square piece long
enough
square
for
two blocks.
The- two opposite corners should be

After the piece
is
and face-marked.
squared,
it
should
be ripped in two, by ripping from corner

nally
to corner, or diagohalf
is
through the piece, (Fig. 191)
Each
then cut
for
two corner glue blocks.
138

Often these blocks are used
little
of rectangular section. Such and do not look as well. These blocks are not necessarily of any specified dimensions. If they are about the size shown in the drawing, (Fig. 181), they will fulfil their purpose. The angle which fits the corner
blocks are but
stronger,
must be exactly a right angle

square.
in in
order to hold the frame
Drive
several
brads
each block.
These brads
of
may be
different
lengths, the longer
ones beingusedinthe
thicker part of the
block.
The brads
should be driven only

far
enough to keep the
blocks from slipping,
and then the blocks
should
be removed
the
sur-
and glue applied to the

blocks and
faces of the
Fig. 1
rails.
They
se-
90 Frame Showing
Glue Blocks
should
then
be
curely nailed in place.
Do
to
not neglect to place a piece directly beneath the end into
which the brads are being driven.

the ends of the
You may
find
it
necessary
put a clamp across the frame to hold the legs tightly against
rails
while you are driving the nails.
After the triangular glue blocks at the corners are fastened,
glue and nail four blocks
midway between these,

block.
to use in
securing the top.
Before nailing the blocks in place, holes
may be bored through each
This
will
permit of screws

being used
to
139
hold the top in place.
Read what
is
said about
screws and their use.
When
Measure
edge
these blocks have been fastened, place the top on the
bench, bottom side up, and place the frame in position.

at
each corner from the side
of
the leg to the outer
of the top
and move the frame
until all the
measurements
are equal, or as
nearly so as
ble.
is
possi-
Put a screw in
eachof the four holes
them by them a little with the hammer. Turn them in tight

and
start
driving
with a screw driver.

If
Fig.
191
Ripping Triangular Glue Blocks

of the rails before the parts
If
glue
is
placed
of the legs
on the sides on the ends
and ends
are nailed together, they will hold better.

of the rails first
the glue
is
placed
and allowed
to soak in
and then
more glue applied and glue placed on the surfaces of the legs and allowed to dry a little before placing the parts together,
they will hold
still
better.
LESSON
The
as Fig.
39
is
TABORET WITH SHELF

taboret
shown
in Fig.
192
made
in the
181 up to the point of inserting the
shelf.
same manner The shelf
strengthens the frame, and

fore taborets
makes the
if
taboret stronger, there-
may be
larger
with shelves.
140

The
shelf,
(Fig.
193)
r
'i
consists of three pieces, one
"i
n
i
rectangular piece and two

strips.
(^
The two strips are made first. They may be
cut from a long strip or by
-J
-
LH
14'
TT
t~
Ik-
Fig.
192Taboret
with Shelf
ripping from the edge of a
wide piece
after the surface
and ends have been

If
trued.
they are
the
at
-
strip,
made from a ends may be finbe found
6k
ished
an angle.
will
i
Thi
-J
Taboret
141
than making them square and will also give a better appearance.
Before the legs are nailed in place, they should be clamped
together,
for rails,
and pencil
lines
drawn locating positions
of the nails
and
shelf
of
is
the strips for the shelf.
See Fig. 194.

as the top.
It
The
made
in the
is,
same manner
the
should be square, that

Before cutting
it
the length and width the same.

if
to size,
measure to see
rails
and
strips
Fig.
194
Legs Clamped for Lining

If
are the
same
as
the sizes given in the drawing.
they are
not,
make
the shelf of a size that will hold the legs the same
distance apart at top and bottom. Nail and glue the strips in place, and, lastly, the shelf. Holes may, if necessary, be made for these nails with the drill,
(Fig. 187).
or a
little
The
shelf
may be
set flush with the
side strips,
above or a
little
below them.
for
This style of construction gives sufficient strength

ordinary center table 29 inches high.
an
142
LESSON
TABORET
Do
each
not begin
40
making this
taboret (Fig. 195) until you have
studied thoroughly the one described in Lesson 39; then

part, following the
make
as
drawing (Fig. 196).

are
The
top, legs
and
rails
made
If
in the
same manner
the similar parts of Fig. 180. the legs are
square
stock,
made from small, they may be

as
clamped together
ends and then
vise
at
shown
in
Fig. 194, lined very near their

all
placed in the
once and the

if
ends
planed as
as
they were one piece

in Fig. 197.
shown
The
clamp must be kept on the legs

during the lining and planing
so that they
may be worked
cf the
as
one piece.
See Lesson 16.
The ends
two
rails
are beveled in a
manner similar
to cutting the corners of the
bread board.
Fig.
Hold them
at
195 Taboret
The
rails
an angle in the vise and plane

at
an angle similar to planing
ends, (Fig. 198).
are nailed together at their ends
and a broad brace (Fig. 199) nailed across to keep the frame
square.
Glue blocks are then
fitted to
the corners.
The blocks may be clamped
as in Fig. 199, or nailed. (Fig.

190.)
it
143
If
clamp is used,
or
will pull
must not be tightened
too
much
it
the corner out of square.
When
nails
the glue
is
dry,
may be driven
Be
sure that
through the blocks into

the
rails.
the
rails
rest firmly
on
the
the bench, or the jar of

nailing
joints.
may break
Another method
joining
of
the
rails
is
to
clamp the four

gether
rails to-
and bore two

in
holes at each corner as
shown
Then
fit
Fig.
200.
dowel pins to
the holes, and after applying glue to both pins
and
holes, drive the pins
into place.
Before driv-
ing the pins in, the glue
should be dry enough

so that
to the
it
will
not stick
if
finger
lightly
touched.
After the glue
has
Fig.
dried, the corner angles
196 Tabcret
144

As these angles determine the position
of the
should be cut.
legs,
they should be very carefully lined and worked.
To
plane them, hold them in the vise

as
shown
in Fig. 201.
is
While the glue
drying,
make
its
the shelf ready for cutting
corners.
Intead of laying
out the corners by the drawing, the

rails
may be clamped upon

Be
rails
the shelf as in Fig. 202 and the
corners marked.
sure that
are right
at
both shelf and

side up,
and place a mark

of
one corner
each so that they
may be
returned to the same
Fig. I
97
Jointing
En is
of Legs
relative position in nailing to-
gether.
Trim the corners
as
directed for the bread board
(Lesson 29).
It is easier to nail
if
the legs
nail holes are drilled.
To
iej
ng Ends of Rails
locate the holes, place the

side
by
side, their top
ends even, and draw

Drill
a short pencil line
ich leg to locate the nail hole.
the holes at the

center of the legs and then nail the parts together.
are but
line,
145
As there
on the
two holes
in
each leg for securing the
rails, drill
not above or below

in Fig. 186.
as
shown
Examine the
if
legs to see
they are square with

rails,
the
and out
of
wind.
Test the shelf
also in several ways.
The
legs
may be
secured to the shelf by

using round head blued
screws.
Such screws
be used in
rails.
Fig. 1
99 Clamping
Glue Block
may
also
securing the legs to the

holes in the legs large
If
screws are to be used, bore
enough
for the
shanks of the screws.

about half the diame-
Bore holes in the shelf and

rails
ter of the
screw thread.
grease in these
Put a
little
holes before starting the

screws.
Be very
careful
not to hit the nails as you

bore the holes in the
If
rails.
screws are to be used,
plan for them as you nail

Fig.
200 Boring Holes
in
Comer
the
rails
together and do
not nail the glue blocks

until after boring the holes for screws.
at
It is
best to use dowels

will
the corners
if
screws are to be used, and then you
not
146

In assembling the parts,
fasten the rails together, then the legs to the rails, next fasten the shelf and finish by putting on the top.
spoil a bit in boring for the screws.

first
See that
wind.
all
parts
are
of
straight, square
and out
Four glue blocks

should be placed on the
rails as
shown
in Fig.
190
to firmly hold the top.
This taboret furnishes

a basis for a large
Fig. d
number
con-
201 Planing Corner
of modifications, all
,
.
structed in this manner.
...
The
size
may
vary from the smallest taboret to one the height
of a dining-table.
The amount
of rails are
which the top projects beyond

the
rails
and the width
features
of
which are susceptible

suit various
changes to
needs.
The
size,
legs
may not only vary in
but in section, from square

"
<;
to
extreme oblong, thus permit-inch material

will also per-
ting the use of
throughout.
This
mit of tapering or otherwise forming the outlineof legs. The rails may be broad enough to hold the
legs securely without the shelf.
Fig.
202 Rails and Shelf Clamped
147
LESSON
This pedestal, (Fig. 203)
sufficiently difficult for
is
41
PEDESTAL
a simple, plain problem; yet
any grade pupil.
When made
good
first
in
oak
or
mahogany,
is
it
taxes the ability of a
year high
school boy.
ners,
The
necessity for true surfaces,

it
edges and cor-
what makes
worth doing
at planing,
and
if
you are not good
you had better use some other design.

It
does not matter which part

first,
is
made
the
as all
may be made from

204).
If
drawing
(Fig.
is
the
square column
parts
begun
first,
other
can be made while the glue
joints of the
column are drying.

what
will
In making the column, dress to

a true surface
cf
be the inside
column.
one side piece

will
of the
Fit to this
surface the
two pieces
to leave
which
of the
be the narrow side pieces
column.
Be sure
fitting to
these pieces wide enough to allow

for jointing
and
the other
Fig.
wide piece.
Locate these pieces
203 Pedestal
and drive
nails at
each end
at
the
inside edges so that while being clamped, they will not slip.
Drive the nails on an angle, with their heads extending beyond

the ends of the sides, so that they can be readily removed
after the glue is hard.
Fig. 205 shows the parts in clamps,
148

also in gluing the other
joint side
of the
which are used
wide piece.
To
fit
this
second wide piece, true the
and then
joint the
edges
narrow pieces.
Plane these
proper width
m
-10-
TZ-
until they are of the
to give the correct size to the outtn
side of the column.
Should
this
piece be either thicker or thinner
-H"
13"
than the drawing
calls for, plan the
width of the narrow pieces, so that
* i
=3
Y-
the outside of the column will be

the correct size with very
little
plan-
1Z"
ing after
all
sides are glued.
Dress the outside of the column

to the required size.
Next square
will find
-4"
the ends.
This you
but
if
someyour
what
fully,
difficult
you work careto
watching and working
lines
you
will
succeed.
part of
The main
and then cut
facing strip
to the
is
the top
is
planed on one surface and one edge

to a size a
little
larger
than the finished top.
narrow
then
fitted
and glued
even
under surface
of the top
with the straight edge, (Fig. 206).
The two end

fitted.
facings are next
These
are cut so that the
grain will be parallel with the grain
y
Fig.
r.*
of the top.
They
207.
are
clamped
as
204
Pedesiai
shown
in Fig.

Nails driven at an angle at the ends
against them, will help to
strip tight.
145
and the pieces crowded

first
make
the end joints against the
Fig.
205 Clamping
Column
The
ing strip
last facis fitted
and clamped
208.
as
shown in Fig.
After the parts
have dried, the

top
is
worked the
as a single
same
thick piece.
The piece on
the top end of the
column may be of any size which
Fig.
206 Facing
Strip
Clamped
will
go between the facing
strips of the top
and
150

it
receive the screws, therefore do not plane

of equal thickness
except to make
it
throughout.
There should be three or four

In
screws through the piece into the top of the column and as
many more up through

very cheap work, nails
the board into the pedestal top.
may be used
it
instead of screws.
is
Deterexact
is
mine by
soft
careful
measuring that the column

in place.
in the
If
center of the top, before fastening
the top
of
wood and the screws of proper size, the holes for the screws may be bored through the board, then the latter with
Fig.
207
End Facing
Pieces Clamped
the
column attached may be put
in place.
When
the measure-
ments show the column
in the center of the top,
screws
may
be driven part way into the top by using the hammer, and
then the screw-driver used to finish forcing them to place.
The base
similar
If
is
fastened to the lower end of
the
column
in
manner.
the screws
parts
the parts are of hard wood,

h to
may be
driven
mark the places and then the
separated and

holes bored for the screws.
151
The sub-base
is
fastened to the
base as well as the feet to the sub-base with screws.
The design
of the pedestal
may be
modified by making
all
Fig.
208 Second Facing Strip

If
Clamped
parts octagonal.
the column
is
to
be made octagonal,
it
should be
made from
of the
a solid piece.
Chamfering may bs used

used on the edges
of the
on the corners
top and bases.
column
if it is
LESSON
This rack
42
BOOK RACK
ments.
It
may be varied in size to suit individual requireThe board should be carefully trued on all surfaces.
the upper edge, in which case
it
msy be chamfered on
The square
should be enough wider to allow for the chamfering.

pieces should be carefully jointed on
all
sides
and
all of
each size should be
made
exactly alike and square in
152

After the pieces have
cross section.
been jointed and cut
to
length, the ends are rounded.
To do
the
rounding
place a block
in the vise
and
whittle
end
in
as
the shown
210.
a
Fig.
To make
nice end,
first
shape
it
like
an octagon,
(Fig.
Fig.
211)
209- Book Rack

off
and then cut
the corners,
making
it
round.
You
is
will
un-
derstand how this
done by
reading the directions for making the cylinder, Lesson 67.

It
not necessary to lay out the
octagon, but you should understand
how one
is
made and
fol-
low the same plan as nearly as
you can without drawing the

lines.
The rounded
part should
sha]
be the same length and

they
each end so that in putting the

pieces
together,
will
all
Fig.
210
Whittling on Block

enter the holes the same distance.
is
is
153
Notice that the round part
of the
same
size for
if
about
inch back from the end.
This
very important
you wish to
If
make a
strong joint.
is
the
whittled portion
entire length
it
tapered the
will
have so
small a bearing in the hole that

the glue will not hold.
You
Fig.
may draw
end to
alike.
pencil lines at each
assist in
making them
in shap-
211 Octagonal End

knife.
Your success
ing the ends depends largely on
how you use your
Use the block
as in Fig.
whittle as in Fig. 212.
Sometimes you can Whittling past your thumb as shown in Fig. 213 is all right if
if
210
you can.
you are
particular to
keep
a
your thumb
in
such
position that the knife

passes
against
over
it;
and never
have a cut
is
otherwise you
are likely to
thumb.
a
is
This
no doubt
good way to
the only
objects.
whittle
and
not
way for whittling

It
is
many
Fig.
difficult to learn
and should
2 1 2 Whittling End
most
of the whittling)
be learned by every one,

(
although the block should
be used
for
for
being a method well adapted

than
for
removing the
fine shavings, in finishing rather
the
154

first
heavy
cuts.
By comparthe knife
is
ing the different views you

will notice that
held at different angles and

that
different
parts
of
the
blade are used.

the shaving near
By
starting
the large
end and gradually working toward the point, you will work faster and better.
The grain of the wood may require special care and

the holding of the blade at a
very oblique angle as shown

Fig
2 13--
Whittling
End
in Fig.
214.
These
are merely typical
positions for the knife.
In
working pieces
sizes
is
of
various
knife
and shapes, the
held in
many ways. Somein the
times cutting toward the end
and sometimes cutting

opposite direction.
After the
to an
it is
end
is
formed
octagon in
this
manner,
made
sixteen sided
and
finally
rounded, as was the
cylinder, Fig. 304.
The two
of
horizontal pieces
Fig.
each end should be clamped
214 Knife
Blade
at
an Angle

together and the places for the spindle holes marked.
155
Here
you have an opportunity to exercise your judgment in spacing. Bore the holes and make the small spindles and then sandpaper each before putting the parts together.
Use the paper
on your fingers for the straight sides of the pieces and on a round edged block, ( Fig. 133), for the rounded ends. The ends may be made separate from the base and not glued to it, so that in packing the ends will lie flat upon the base. It is possible to hinge the ends the same as if they were solid
boards, but the setting of the hinges
is
too difficult a task for
most pupils
at this
time.
Surface hinges should not be used for
such a piece, and
their use
marks the work
of a
mere novice.
LESSON
The
legs
select
first
43
(Fig. 215
) is to set
REED FOOTSTOOL
thing in
making
this footstool
the pieces for the
on end and
what are to
be the outside surfaces.
As the
in-
side corners are the
ones which deter-
mine the squareness of the frame,

it
is
necessary to
corners
make these
fore the
will
square and there-
face-marks
be on the inside
corners.
As these
Fig.
21 5 Reed
Footstool
156

be
less
will
seen than the others, you
will
select the poorer
faces for the face-sides, instead of the better faces as in work-
P
MO
-W
ing the
first
piece
*
o
(Lesson 4).
locate these
That
to
in
you may be sure

marks
the proper
place,
stand the legs on end
and mark an x on
each side that
is
to
If
8i
\z-
if
be a face.
After
dressing the surfaces,
1
k
use the
as
face-marks
in Figs.
shown
37
'
&
\
and 43.
i
li
After
all
four sides
ofeachleghavebeen
jointed, set
them on
for
end again and mark

C <J
the
places
the
holes for the rungs
(Fig. 217).
From
one leg
the drawing (Fig.
216)
t
-
lay out
b
c
and then by superposition, lay out the
Li
Fig.
216- Reed Footstool

chief difficulty
is
others from this one.
Be sure
mistake.
to
make no
The
to locate the lower holes corsides.
rectly as they are not alike
on the two
At the same time

you mark the positions
for the holes,
157
you should mark points
at
which
to
draw knife
lines for cutting off the
ends and pencil
lines for the

is
chamfers
This
After
shown
in Fig. 218.
longitudinal positions for the
holes have been located, set
the gauge and draw short lines

across the knife lines to locate
the lateral positions.
By referis
ring to the drawing you will
note that the gauge

at
to
be
set
the
same space
is
for all the

Fig.
holes and
to
be held with the
21
Marking Position of Rungs

much
importance,
the footstool
head against the face-sides.
The boring
for
if
of the holes is a matter of
they are not
at right angles to the surface,
will not
be square.
One
of the
upper holes should be bored

to a depth of about 1
%
is
inches and the other one
bored
one.
until
it
meets
this
better plan
to bore but one hole at
the top of each leg until

after the legs are
glued
in pairs.
Then the other

of
hole can be bored without so
much danger
splitting the end.
See
Fig. 229.
Fig.
All the lower
218 Marking by
Superposition
holes should
be about
158

Chamfer the top ends, following the directAs these chamfers are short you will
be very careful to
\]/ 2 inches deep.
ions for chamfering, given in Lesson 18.
make them
square, smooth and of equal size.
Be particular to make them alike,

and with sharp,
clean cut edges,
for
if
the cham-
fers are
not well
apthe
made, the
pearance of
Fig.
2 1 9 Testing
for
with Try square
piecewillbepoor.
Select the four
square pieces
cut
the lower rungs; plane
them
to size
and square;
them
to length
and
finish the
ends as directed in Lesson 42.
Thefourremaining pieces are for the
upper rungs. These
should
rounded
ing
for
first
at
be
adjoin-
ing corners, follow-
the
directions
cyl-
making the
After
1
inder.
they are
.
rounded, whittle the
220 Testing
with Try

ends the same as for the lower rungs.
159
Dowel rod may be

lose the opportunity
used
for
these pieces, but in using
it
you
of learning to
do the rounding.
Fig.
221 Testing with

all
Try square
After the parts have
been shaped and smoothed,
select
the rungs for the two
opposite sides and put
them together
if
they
are right, separate
them
Allow
and apply glue.

the
glue to
become
nearly glazed and then
force the pieces together by clamping.
Be
very careful to test your
work
189).
at
each stage by
looking for wind (Fig.
Apply the
try-
Fig.
222 Testing
with
Framing Square
160

in Fig. 222.
square as in Figs. 219, 220 and 221.
be applied as
The framing square may You may be able to press the parts
together without using
any clamps but do not

try to drive
them
to-
gether.
to Fig.
By
referring
will
229 you
learn
how a clamp may

the rungs re-
be used.
If
quire turning to
make
them square
in
as tested
Fig.
221 a hand
used,
screw
Fig.
may be
If
223-
Turning Rung
Fig. 223.
one end
it
enter too easily
may
be held back by placing a hand-screw

After each pair of legs has
as
shown
in
in
Fig. 224.
been put together and the glue

a similar
allowed to dry, glue the pairs together

testing
manner,
them thoroughly.
tested for
They may be
squareness by measuring
from corner to corner.

Fig. 225.
The
lesson
next work
is
the
finishing.
Read
the
on
finishing
and
use such materials as you

think best for this piece.
There
are
many ways

of
161
weaving the reed
or other material
is
used
for the
top of the
footstool.
The most simple

in
to
wind the reed around one
way and weave
the cross strands.
The weaving may

be done by passing the strand first
over,
-_
^fl
mm
under and then making a sim-
ple regular pattern.
By varying the num-
Fig.
225 Testing by
Measuring
ber of strands passed over or under different patterns are made.
To
plan the weaving use small frame and weave string instead
of the reeds.
i
-- -#
r
This
will
often
save much time.
Another
ih rrrri i.m mrr rr ra m.mm m m m m mm m m m %

i
mi IffTTSf M iir r m
method of weaving andthebest,

if
you
will
be
iiiiiiiiiJB
careful to follow
the
is
directions,
to
wind the
reed around in
three ways before
doing any
This
in the
weaving.
3
Fig.
<i
III'HLg
is
done
226-Weaving
in Fi S'
manner shown 226

'
162

This shows a simple plain weave.
strands close together or by leaving
By winding two or more more than one space the

finished
pattern can be varied.

After the three windings the top
is
by stitching
For
in the
this a
O
Fig.
227 Needle
^
J
last strands.
needle
as
It
is
is
required, such
in Fig.
shown
227.
a
may be made from

little if
piece of brass or iron and
should be but
any
wider than the reeds.

of
Other materials may be used
for the tops
such
footstools, but reeds are
probably most desirable for
school use.
LESSON
TABORET.
44
This taboret( Fig. 228)
may be made
nary
size
of
any ordigiving the
or
proportion.
Make a drawing
size of
each part and the
spacing.
If
the top were covered
with leather and the parts
properly proportioned it would be a footstool. In the taboret shown,

the
legs
are
"
:;
inches
square and 14 inches high,

the rungs
inch square
12
and
Fig.
the
top
inches
228
Tab
square.
From
these di-

mensions you can calculate the dimensions wish to make.
Dress
all
163
of the piece
you
the pieces straight and square.
Plan to have the
face-marks at the inside

corners of the legs and
at
the upper and inside
edges of the rungs or

rails.
In marking the
for
places
boring
and
whittling the ends follow
the directions given for
making the book rack, (Lesson 42) and footstool

If
(Lesson 43).
but one hole
of
is
bored in the top
each
Fig.
229 Clamping
Taboret
leg before the sides are
clamped there
will
be
less
danger
of splitting the top ends.
As
the lower holes at the adjoining sides do not meet, they
may
It is
both be bored before clamping.
usually necessary to
force the parts to-
gether with clamps.
Almost any light

clamp or handscrew
Fig.
230Taboret Top
is
will
answer, for the

fit
parts should
so
nicely that slight pressure
required.
Should the ends not
draw up alike a stick may be placed between them, Fig. 229. Read the directions for testing Fig. 215 before attempting to
104

The top is fastened to the frame by bordown through the rails and inserting screwsfrombeneath.
put this taboret together.

ing holes
A simple modification
is
of this taboret
shown
in
Fig. 230.
The
general
-JKI
*
"
--~:~
pl an
maybe
the
same
as Fig. 228.
In
order to allow for the extension of the

legs
at
above the top, they are dressed
off
the inside corner and the top fitted

similar to
by trimming the corners
mak-
W^l^^^
ing an octagon, or cutting the corners

of the
bread board, (Fig. 143).

this construction is
first
When
top.
used the
frame should
be made and then the
Before beginning work, carefully
draft out the top

will
Fig.
and
legs so that
you
be sure
to
have the parts well prois
23 1 Corner of Leg
of leg
portioned.
leg
Fig. 231
a picture of the
showing the flattened
corner.
This style
may be used on
other than rectangular tops.
LESSON
one
45
may be any
BOOK RACK
This book or magazine rack, Fig. 232,
size
from a rack
long.
It is
of
shelf to a rack of four or five shelves, 3 feet
best not to plan a rack requiring shelves
more than
long are
3 feet long, because the weight of the books will cause the
shelves to spring or sag.
Shelves 2 feet to 2
'
..
feet
most desirable and
satisfactory.
The
sizes of the parts should vary to
correspond with size

of rack.
165
Posts \y inches square are heavy enough for any

Posts
"/%
rack and can be used on the smaller sizes.
inch
feet
square are suitable for racks of two shelves not over 2

long, but
if
such
light posts are used, all the other parts

light.
2 y
must
be correspondingly
should not be over
The
shelves for such a light rack
inch thick.
Such
light parts require
very careful workmanship.

If
you are not
sure that you can
do
very close work you
ought not to attempt

to
make
a light rack.
Before making your
drawing look over

the
similar
designs
Figs. 209, 215, 228.
The ends and back
may be ornamented
by either horizontal vertical pieces
or
as
shown
signs.
in
these
de-
Do not make
many pieces.
Fig.
the parts too fine or
use too
232 Book Rack
All directions for
are
found in the directions
making the rungs and laying out the parts for making Figs. 209, 215, 228.
in the
Follow these instructions carefully.
The
shelves are
made
same manner
as the base of
the bench-hook,
Fig. 74.
In this design the shelves have
much
to do in holding the rack rigid
and square, and should
166

of
therefore be carefully straightened and also be out
wind.
Make
the ends
first,
then glue the back pieces in place, and
lastly fasten
the shelves securely to the ends.

is
The
best
rails
way
and
to secure the shelves
to
bore holes up through the
insert screws.
LESSON
The magazine
in
46
is
MAGAZINE RACK
rack shown in Fig. 233
a very nice study
planing and nailing.
The drawing
(Fig. 234), gives the

will
sizes of
each part and
if
you work to these dimensions you

sides,
have
little difficulty
in completing the project.

all
The end
and ends,
pieces should be carefully trued on

if
edges
for
they are in wind, or the edges are not square,
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
/
the joints
will
^||
not be
J
Y
i
good.
Be
WjT ^-
particular to
have your
plane sharp
while
smoothing
Fig.
233
-Magazine Rack
the end
grain,
for
to
one end should be carefully smoothed

other end must be smooth, cr
it
form a
joint,
and the
of
will
not finish nicely.
The bottom should be
straight
on th3 edges and out
wind but need not be exactly

from end to end,
straight
on the
sides.
It
should
be of the same thickness throughout, but

for in
may be
little
curved
putting together, the back
will straighten

it.
167
The back may

it.
also
be curved a
little, for
the bottom will
straighten
If
the strips on the front are a
little
curved or sprung side-
wise, the
convex side should be turned toward the inside or back.

straight
appear improper, but
Using thin pieces which are not perfectly if you watch such pieces
will
may
or
as
you work
sprung
them, you
discover that they are

it is
so
easily
straightened that
useless to attempt to
make them
straight.
y.
=_
^_^_
-
k 1*
v
-3 ^LDs.
'"
j
r> A " d.i

-1
^
-
^li ^Z&fc%
**-
!
**
!
'
*'i
Fig.
234 Magazine Rack
"fa
If
thin stock has
been run through a good surface planer

all
and
is
not in wind, usually
that
is
required
is
to
go over
each surface systematically with the smooth plane, joint the

edges carefully and then force the piece straight sidewise in
putting
it
in place.
of
The working
knowledge
pieces.
of
such thin lumber requires a
much
larger
planing and jointing than the working of thicker

therefore thoroughly master the instruc-
You should
168

first
tions in regard to the

of thick stock before
study piece and
make some pieces

and 29, bereceive
far
attempting any projects using thin material.

15, 20, 21, 24, 25
fore attempting to
You should study Lessons make this

this lesson
rack,
and you
will
more benefit from
if
you make
all of
the objects in
the lessons mentioned.
In assembling this piece,
first
nail the
slats.
back
to
the
ends
of
and then the bottom and

finish all parts
last
the
With some kinds
can be finished before nailing together.

nails
Fancy headed
may be used
over the brads, or blued
round head screws may be used
in front
and back.
LESSON
The
size of a
47
BOOK RACK
book rack
books
it
is
properly determined by the size

to hold.
and number
of
is
The
shelf should
be
Fig.
235
Book Rack
smooth and straight and
a little
wider than the widest book.

is
Carving or other roughness beneath books
objectionable.

Strips with spaces
169
between or adjustable shelves made up

be
tolerated.
of
sliding strips should never
The end
it
supports
should not be less than half the height of the book and usually
three-quarters
to
is
more
satisfactory.
Sometimes
is
desirable
make
the end supports higher than the book.
The back
support
when
in
combination with a level shelf need be only

In nearly
cases the back
high enough to hinder the books being pushed beyond the
edges of the
shelf.
all
is
not simply
to hold the books, but to assist in holding the

parts.
ends and other
When
this
is
the purpose,
other requirements must determine the size, strength and nature of the
back; for anything which
is
sufficient
if
to give strength to the case will,
properly placed, retain the books.
The length of the shelf is determined by the number of books to be held

until a limit
is
reached and then the

in
shelves
are
increased
number
light,
End
of
Book Rack
rather than in length.
Do
will
not
make
the shelves too

it is
Books
are
heavy and
spring a shelf unless
strong.
For small books a shelf

stock.
If
may be made
2 feet long of
^-inch
the books are
8vo. the shelf should
be
inch thick.
By examining
tions,
Fig. 135
and considering the above suggesto plan a rack for your
you ought
to
be able
will
own
use.
Do
all
the planning before you begin work,
so that while
making the piece you

for planing.
have nothing to think about besides
the study in construction.
Be
particular to review
all
directions
(Lessons 4 to 11), sawing, (Lesson 14), cham-
170

(Lesson 17), whittling, (Lesson 42) and sandpapering,
not attempt to
first
fering,
(Lesson 25).
Do
made
make your Book-Rack
until
you have
the
study piece and done some chamfering and
boring on a simpler project.
The end
view, Fig. 236, shows the
rails
projecting through
rails in place.
the end piece.
Round
pins are used to hold the
These pins may be
flattened
on one
side.
In this case the

is
holes are bored so that a part of each hole
covered by the
end piece. To insure the holes being
in the center of the rods
or rails they should be bored before the ends are rounded.
LESSON
This rack (Fig. 237),
is
48 PLATE RACK
made
in substantially the
same
manner as Fig. 235. The blocks (Fig. 238)
for fastening to the wall
should be
Fig.
237 Mate
Rack

shelf so that there will
171
securely glued and screwed to the end and cross-rod and to the
be no
possibility of their
becoming
Fig.
238 Plate Rack

16
loosened.
The
holes in these blocks should be either
inches, 32 inches or 48 inches from center to center.

All the cross-rods
may extend
entirely
through the ends as in Fig. 235, or some or

all
may be
239
is
in blind holes as the rails of the
book rack,
Fig.
(Fig.
232)
of
an end view
fFig.
w
237.
This shows a
combination of rods with
pins and rods with nails.

Fig.
240
is
section
of the
Fig.
through the end and red
showing the location

nail.
I
I
In Fig. 239 a nail
240 Reds
Nailed. Sectional View
shown partly driven. These nails should be very carefully driven so that they do not run out on the side of the A clamp should be used to hold Fig.239-ViewofEnd end piece.
^k
is
^^L
172

Pins
the pieces in place while the nails are being driven.
may
be used instead
of the nails, or the parts of
may be
glued.
Unless the rods are

held by screws, either
flat
hard wood the shelves should be
head or round head.
This plan of plate rack
may be
altered in
many ways
with-
out materially increasing the difficulties of construction.

size
The
and spacing
of the rods
should be determined to
suit indi-
vidual requirements.
as required.
Hooks may be placed beneath the
shelve?
LESSON
This book rack, Fig. 241,
is
49
which may be modiof a good cabinet
it is
BOOK RACK
of a type
fied to suit a great variety of needs.
Made
wood
a
a pleasing de-
sign as well as useful and
good lesson
It
is
in
wood-
work.
difficult
not a very
problem, and may be made by pupils who have learned to plane,

bore, saw
and drive
pieces
nails.
The
en
all
for
the
troughs should be dressed

four sides
and then
each end
clamped together and

lines
at
drawn
at
which
to cut
them
off
as in Fig. 194.
In squar-
ing these ends have good

Fig.
241
Book Rack
full lines
entirely
around

and then work exactly
easier to
to the lines.
173
Remember
that
it is
much
draw the
lines correctly,
and saw close
to
them
to
leaving
only enough for smoothing with the plane, than

lines carelessly,
it is
draw the
and then
attempt to plane the ends

square.
Before doing any

this rack,
work on
that
is
read
all
said about truing
surfaces,
jointing edges
in
and squaring ends,

Lessons
1
to 20.
The posts should be made in the same manner

as the legs for the taborets.
Fig.
180
or
Fig.
195.
After the four legs
have
been dressed
square,
straight and calculate the amount of slant, and make
the block to be used be-
tween the head

lining
of the try-
square blade and the leg in
around the ends,

determining the
Ji
and
in
3
Fig.
angle at which the holes

are to
be bored.
On one leg in the drawing (Fig. 242)

is
242 Book Rack

From
the
sketch of
shown a a trysquare and a tapered piece.

7
dimensions you learn that the ends are
inches wide at the
174

at
top and 10 inches wide

inches.
or
1
the bottom.
The
slant height
is
24
This gives a slant of 3 inches in 24 inches of height,
inch in width to each 8 inches of height.
The
slant
is
slant
is
equal on each side, therefore
on one side the

to
_.
inch
each 8 inches in height.
piece 8 inches in slant

) z
length and
inch wider
at
one end than
at the other will
exactly offset the slant of the

legs.
Such
a piece placed beof the trysquare
tween the head

and the leg
-
will
give
all
the
Lining Across on
End
angles for working the legs.

Fig.
at
an Angle
243 shows how the piece
is
placed for lining across the ends, Fig.

is
244 shows how the
piece
used
in boring the holes. of
As a matter
the piece
so
it
convenience
is
slotted at each
end
will slip
over the trysquare

or naris
blade.
Whether the wide

is
row end
drawn.
over the blade

line
determined by the
to
be
Always place the head
of the trysquare or tapered piece
against a face, the
same
such
as
in
ordinary work.
In
laying
Fip.244out
work
as the lines are
measure the lengths or spacing en the face-edge

straight across
on the edge.
Then from
the ends of these lines

draw the slanting
putting together
it
175
lines
on the
sides.
In squaring the end
for
maybe tested with

it
the try-square and tapered
block and also by measuring from the extreme outside corners.

If it is
not square
to
it
may be sprung
to place
or
clamped
it
until the glue has dried.
and a brace nailed Another way is to
clamp
to a board.
of the
The design
out requiring any additional directions.
end may be changed considerably withThe upper cross-piece

Square or round
or rung answers the purpose of a handle.
rods
may be used
lengthwise beneath the shelves to assist in
keeping them in place.

rack
The
strip at the front
of the lower
may be
omitted.
This permits making the end piece
tapered the entire length at the front edge.
The
pieces for the lower trough-ends

similar to Fig. 163.
may
first
be made in
one piece
Others
it.
Some may prefer a pattern to use in laying out the pieces. may prefer to make one piece and mark the other from Whatever method is used draw knife lines to work to, and
lines that but little planing will
first,
saw so near the
Fasten the ends into the troughs

legs to the trough ends.
be required. and then fasten the

dowels or screws
Glue and
nails,
may be used
This rack
for
holding the parts together.

modified by changing the sizes of the
may be
parts, the angle of the shelves, or the
number
of shelves.
The
ends may be solid pieces instead
of
square or rectangular legs.
176
LESSON
This follows the same plan
of
50
as the footstool (Fig.
of the
PLANT STAND
work
215), and
is
practically the
rail,
same excepting the extension
legs above the top

rails
the longer legs below, and the cross-
which form the
rest for the plant.
Read the
making the As the
directions for
making
for
round ends, Lesson 42 and

legs
are
footstool (Fig. 215.)
longer you
should be more particular to
make
every part square and bore the

holes correctly.
The hexagons or other ornamay be held in To lay off the place by brads.
mental pieces
hexagon
half the
set the
compasses to one(Fig. 247).
space between the rods

a circle
and
strike
Notice that
held near
the
compasses are
top.
the
Draw
the
diameter A-B (Fig. 248) either

with or across the grain.
Fig.
With
245
-Plant Stand
the compasses set at
the same
space as in striking the circle place
one leg
at the point
the compasses to
A and mark the the point B and
small arcs
C and
E, change
strike the arcs
and
F.
should give the points or angles of the hexagon.

the compasses on
Place
C and
draw the other arc
at
D, and on
E and

draw the other arc
exactly the
points correctly
at
177
F.
If
these
first
last arcs cross
the circle at
same points
as the
ones you can consider the
located.
Con-
S
ifo.
nect these points
completing the
hexagon.
"-N
Draw
knife lines to work

to
and saw and

hexato shape.
"i bi-
plane the
/2"
gon
*ift
Various other
r-
Htfk
*/-
-r-
*/#
fe
geometricalforms
may be used
this place.
in
First glue to-
gether the sides
which receive the

ends of the center cross-rails and
<M
then glue the two

pairs of
legs to-
gether.
The
be
left
legs
may
square and
straight, or
may
Fig.
246 Plant
Stand
be tapered.
articles
In
sort
of this
which sustain considerable weight, the
legs
may be tapered on only the inside or face-sides, or on all sides. To work these tapers draw pencil lines across the face-
178
surfaces (Fig. 249 A) for the end of the taper, and gauge lines on the lower ends, draw pencil lines lengthwise with a straight-
edge connecting these points.
If
you are careful

long lines
in planing these
may be
omitted.
Begin
the
planing
at
a distance from
Fig.
24 7- Drawing
Circle
Fig.
248 Laying out Hexagon
pencil line which crosses the surface

to
it
and gradually work back

on the end.
finish
as
you approach the gauge
line
In planing
one surface
beginning
before
another. After the
two opposite
faces
sur-
have been
Fig.
tapered draw lines

as
in
249 B
and taper the other

two surfaces.
This design
Fig.
24 9
Leg Linedfor
Taj
offers
an excellent

geometric forms as part
of the design.
179
opportunity for the study of spacing and the use of simple
LESSON
The
51
UMBRELLA RACK
This umbrella rack affords an opportunity for the use of
exceptional ability in spacing.
size of the parts, distances
between the horizontal pieces, and the variation
in the
number
for
and length
judgment
designer's
cf parts in the different sec-
tions all afford

as
art.
an opportunity
good
well as the use of the
Do not use too many pieces.
Fully
determine each part of the design before
Fig.
250 Umbrella
Rack
this
beginning work.
In
rack the posts are l}i inches square,
25 inches high and

square,
$%
inches
8% inches apart. and 4% inches
The
crossrails are
% inch
4^
apart at the top
and
180

'
inches and 3
inches apart at the bottom.
The
spindles are }
inch square.
Make
a complete drawing before beginning work.
Read the
directions fcr
making the book
rack, Fig. 209; the
footstool, Fig. 215;
and the plant stand, Fig. 245.

pieces in each side of this stand
all,
it
The number
when
of
of
make
necessary the careful fitting of

finished.
or the rack will not be square
You may
find
necessary, in gluing, to clamp

it
each side to a thick board in order to keep

wind.
that
square, and out
Test your work in every way that you can and be

the
glue
sure
on the sides
is
thoroughly dry before
attempting to glue the two sides together.
The pan may be of copper or
of cast iron as
shown
in Fig. 251.
LESSON
52
UMBRELLA RACK
This
is
similar
in
construction to Fig. 250.
There
is
an opportunity
spacing.
all
for a variety of
This should be
planned
and sketched
necessitate
before beginning work,

for
it
may
part.
change
in the size of
some
is
As
this rack
for several
umbrellas,
the material
may
all
be
the
larger than for Fig. 250.

Fig.
252
Umbrella
The
.
height
may be

same.
181
Read the
directions for making, Figs. 245
and 250,
before beginning the work.
From the
either
illustration
you can learn the method

cross-rails so that
of dividing
is
the top into rectangular spaces.
The long central rail
placed
of
above or below the

is
no notching
one
to the other
necessary.
Ordinarily,
cross-pieces appear to spring too
no fastening of these pieces is necessary, but if the much, they may be secured by
at
using a screw from the under side
each place where parts cross.

entire length of the
There may be one pan extending the

rack, or there
may be
a pan for each division of the top.

at
By
using one short cross-rail
the bottom, as
pans
can be used
for
each four
shown in Fig. 252, These may be divisions.

as for Fig. 250.
are, posts,
planned so that the same pattern
may be used
The
square;
sizes of stock
rails,
used in Fig. 252
1%
inch
inch square; spindles,
V 2
inch square; hori-
zontal cross-rails for
making the
divisions,
inch square.
LESSON
The
center panel of this screen
53
14 inches high and
THREAD SCREEN
is
7^
inches wide.
inches wide.
The side The stock

rails.
sections are 12 inches high

is 5/%
and 6}
inch square
for
the uprights,
inch square for the

are
The
pins on which the spools turn
%6
inch in diameter and about 2 inches long, including the
part in the hole.
215.
Lay out and work the pieces the same as for Figs. 209 and Carefully read the directions for making these pieces
before beginning to
make
the thread screen.
182

Plan the proportions and dimensions to suit your require-
ments.
Make
a complete.
drawing showing the
size
and
loca-
tion of each part
including the
pins.
The parts are

small
and the
all
holes not deep,

therefore
the
work must be well done orthe

screen will not
stand well when
completed.
Bore the holes
forthe pins, but
do not put them

Fig.
253 Thread 5
in before
gluing
the sides and

together.
rails
To
to
assist
in
squaring and also
keep the sides
from coming too
near together, pieces may be

placed
rily
tempora-
between the
sides as
shown
in
Fig. 254.
54 Clamping
Thread Screen

or they
183
The hinges maybe of leather the same as the screen (Fig. 259), may be made of cord as shown in detail in Fig. 255. The cord is laced through one hole, then between the
and through the second hole.
it
posts
This makes
hole.
double in the second
Pins are glued and forced
into the holes to
keep the cord from

fastening
is
moving.
required.
No
other
Hinges hold such

more
fastenings.
light pieces
Fig.
255 Cord Hinge

if
rigid than the cord or leather
Fancy
surface hinges
it
may be used
you do not
wish to
make
the screen so
will fold either
way.
LESSON
SCREEN
This screen (Fig. 256)
ing, boring
until
class.
If
is
54
a fine lesson in jointing, squar-
and designing, but it should not be undertaken you have made some of the more simple objects of this
you have had
this experience,
you require no additional

is
directions except that as the material
light
and long you
will
need
to
be very
in
careful to bore
all
holes in the posts as deep
as they
can be bored without breaking through.
keep ever
mind
that the longer the parts the
You must more any

all
variation in the boring or whittling will show,
and therefore be
very careful to bore
all
holes exactly straight, and whittle
ends exactly
Study
all
alike.
the designs of this class and
make
a drawing
184

sizes of all the parts
showing the
of
and the spacing.

of
Instead
each panel being
of a different height, the
center panel
be the highest and the side panels
equal height.
may The
$&
4
Fig.
256.
Qg
(Fig.
are
257) gives the dimensions
of
Fig.
256.
for a
There
light
many ways
the rods,
of securing the tapestry, but
screen,
as
shown
in
Fig. 258, are probably

best.
185
These
are simply light curtain-rods.
The
leather hinge
shown
in detail in Fig.
259
is
a very good hinge for a screen
n T~
T
T
LL SmM
m
is
wt*&
^
Fig.
257 Screen
i|tt in
Fig.
Fig.
259 Leather Hinge
258 Rods
ill
and Tapestry
of this size
and weight, although other
styles
of
hinges
may
be used.
186
LESSON
CHAIR
Do
some
it
55
made
is
not attempt to
make
this
chair until you have

in this class.
If
of the
more simple projects
the work
poorly
well done, the chair will be serviceable, but

will
if it is
made
not be sufficiently strong.

for
Carefully study the directions
making the book-rack (Fig.
209), the foot-stool (Fig. 215),
and the screen (Fig. 256).
Fig.
260
Chan-
Fig. 2-
Sides
More pieces may be used,

ently placed.
are as
or those
shown may be
differ-
The
in Fig.
sizes
given in the drawing (Fig. 262)
shown
260.
safe
to
The parts could be much heavier, but it will not be make them lighter. By comparing the sizes given in
the

drawing with the
sizes of chairs in
187
your
to plan a chair better suited to your needs.
home you may be able Make a complete
188

In putting the parts together
sides alike they
first.
drawing before beginning work.
assemble the sides
To make both
may
be clamped as shown in Fig. 261.

finished insert the rungs
After the two sides are
assembling examine the pieces for wind.

try-square at each angle as
and clamp them together. In all the Test them with the
shown
in
Lesson 43.
Also use the
framing square wherever the parts are large enough.
The back and

seat
seat are
(Lesson 43).
is
Other styles
woven the same as the foot-stool As of seating may be used.
there
of the
considerable strain on the seat the upper inner edges
rungs should be slightly rounded to avoid breaking the
reeds
189
LESSON
56
BLOTTER PAD
After you have learned to plane straight surfaces of ordi-
nary length, you can study the planing of curves on short or

thin pieces.
for
You
will find
it
more
difficult to
plane the pieces
the blotter pad than to
plane such pieces as the study piece, the bench hook or bread board.
The drawing
gives the sizes.
(Fig. 264)
Dress both
pieces in the ordinary way
making them both rectangular.

It is
Fig.
263 Blotter Pad
much
easier
to
do
this
than to plane the tapers and curve from a rough side.

first
To
taper the top,
cut the piece to the finished length.
Draw pencil
gauge
lines for the
end
of
the taper near the center.
Draw
at
lines for the thickness
theends.
(See Fig. 249.) Plane
to these lines.
against the stop in planing.
Hold the piece Use

and the
for
a block between the stop
piece to avoid bruising the end.
Draw a
Fig.
line
on each edge
lines
264 Blotter Pad
the curve of the thick or body piece

of the pad.
These
may be
They
drawn free-hand or with the aid of a templet or pattern.

should be
alike
on each edge.
As
this
curve cannot be planed
190

it
against the stop, you can place
in
the vise as shown in Fig.
265.
Part of the time the plane
may be
held
at
an angle of
about 45 degrees and

part of the time the
moved across from edge to edge, and plane may be held parallel with the edges
Test the surface from edge to edge
and moved along the curve.
with the try-square as in Fig. 25.
The The
parts are held together with a brass

in
knob and screw,
which may be secured from dealers

sizes
Manual Training Supplies.
may be changed
so that larger blotters can be used.
A very nice
and sides
finish
may be given the

of this
top
pad
by applying several
coats of white shellac
and rubbing the

faces
sur-
down smooth
for
after each coat.

Usually
such por-
ous woods the grain

Fig.
265
-flatting Curve
is
filled
before using
the
so small a surface the entire finish
shellac.
shellac,
but
for
may be made
with white
At
first
rub the
finish
with sandpaper, rubbing parallel
with the grain and be careful to not rub too
much
at the edges.
After you have applied sufficient shellac to cover the surface
and
fill
the pores of the
wood
nearly even with the other parts,
grind
it all
down
to a thin
even coating by using pumice stone

of cloih or cotton waste.
and
last
oil
under a pad or wad
The
fine
rubbing must be done with rotten stone or very

stone.
pumice
191
LESSON 57 SCOURING BOX

This box (Fig. 266),
may be made
of pine
or
of
hard
Fig.
is
wood, and
of a size
to suit
individual requirements.
268
gives the ordinary dimensions.
The
chief difficulty
Fig.
2 6 6 Scouring Box
of true surfaces
Fig.
2 6 7 Sides
Ready for Ripping

of this size
the
making
and edges on material
and thickness.
Be
careful to
following the
same order
work each surface correctly as you proceed, as in working the first study piece, or
the parts of the bench-hook.
192

The back
is
made
in
one piece, the ends planed

off as
as in
Lesson 16 and the corners cut
directed in Lesson 29.
To make
the work easier, the sides are worked as one piece
T
i
*
h"+
-3"
f/"H
l#H?Hj!
Of
~K
<
t
Vi
"<u
r
268
-Scouring Box
Fig.

until all surfaces are true,
193
the ends trimmed and the edges
chamfered
as
shown
in Fig. 267.
The
piece
is
then ripped
in two, as in Figs.
184 and 185, and the other edges jointed.

face-piece are then made.
The bottom and

worked
for
One
for
piece
is
to a size
wide enough or long enough

all
both face
and bottom.
the face
is
After
sides
and ends
are finished the piece
cut
off
and nailed
in place.
Fig.
269 Measuring
Width of Bottom
The bottom
in Fig.
is
is then fitted by marking the width as shown 269 and sawing and planing to the marks. The length
marked
as
shown in Fig. 270.

little finish
A line is drawn
It is
entirely
around
the piece and the end sawed and planed.

place.
then nailed in
But
should be used on a box of this kind.
fered across the top
it may be chamand down the edges to the side pieces. Thinner stock may be used, but as the box is likely to be wet
The shape
of the
back may be changed or
194

in use the thin
when
lumber
will
not likely be satisfactory.
To
learn the reason for this, select two pieces of board of the
same
kind and quality
of
lumber, both of different thickness, and
wet them on one side only.
and watch the changes in changes the most and see
their shape.
if
Lay them side by side to dry Notice which one

you can find a reason
for
the
difference.
You
differ-
may
also
experi-
ment with
ent kinds of wood.
Be particular
select
to
specimens
having the annual
rings
in
similar
position.
You may
notice a difference
in
the warping of
two boards of the
same kind
if
of
wood
one is cut
at right
angles to the rings
Fig.
270
Measunng Leu
and the other

nearly parallel with
them.
If at
one time you leave a wide board lying

or floor
flat
on the
bench top
and next time standing on end, or leaning against the bench, you will learn how boards may be warped
or kept from warping.
The
have
its
piece across the front
may extend beyond
the sides and
ends rounded the same as the sides
of the box, Fig.
287
195
LESSON
The
you
will
58
WHISK BROOM HOLDER

ease with which you
parts.
it
you work the
see that
make this will depend on how By observing the sizes given in Fig. 272 may be
made from one
piece 20
inches long, 5 inches wide
and y% inch thick. Plane this as you did

the study piece, Lesson 4,
except that by going over
each surface systematically the

will
machine marks
the
be removed and the

remain
so thin
piece
same
thickness throughout.
The
piece
is
it
can be
bent or sprung, so do not

attempt to
faces
make the
sur-
perfectly
straight.
There should be no short

irregularities
in
it,
nor
should
it
be
in wind,
and
Fig.
the edges must be square
27 l^Whisk Broom
shown
Holder
and
straight.
After truing
lay out the piece as
in Fig. 273.
First cut
the sides
and edges,
One end
off
should be lined and squared (Lesson 16).
the corners and then the piece for the back and trim the
edges, following directions for similar work (Lesson 29),
and

196

Follow directions
for nailing,
square the lower end.
Lesson 2 1
large
using 1-inch wire brads.
The
hole for suspending
may be
enough
tc
for
go over the head

the shank so the
of a nail or screw, or
only large
enough
pnpn
I"
broom holder will be held in place. ^ tms model is made of pine, basswood, whitewood, or some similar soft wood it is a very easy problem
|t
I
gX
i
for
one who
N'
*-!"-*
^l^-f^
learned to plane. To make the problem more

has
difficult the
-h
shape
of the
back may
also
front
sides.
be changed,
that of the
or
of
the
The
corners
may
be chamfered or
the front made
wider and
the
edges extended
past the sides and
rounded the same

as the
Fig.
ends
of the
272-
Whisk Broom Holder
box sides (Fig.

287).
Another modification and one which should be used by the
more advanced pupils

fine
is
to
make
it
the entire piece of
some
cabinet
wood and
polish
before fastening the front in
place.
This necessitates the front extending beyond the sides

and the use
back
of fancy
197
headed
nails
or escutcheon pins instead
of brads in securing the front.
Brads
may be used
to nail the
to the sides.
In place of the brads or escutcheon pins,

In using screws the parts should
if
screws
may be
used.
all
be
fastened together to see
all
are correct,
and then taken apart
and the
shellac or other finish applied.
Round head blued

head screws
at
screws should be used in front and
flat
the back.
of
Escutcheon pins are a special form

hemispherical heads.
nails
with solid
They
are
made
of
both brass and iron
^^^MHHM^^^^^M
91
Fig.
273 Piece
Laid Out
and
in
many
sizes.
If
you use them

drill
in hard
wood, holes
Before
should be drilled with the automatic

polishing the holder put
all
(Fig. 187).
the parts together, driving the nails

will
through the front only enough to make certain that you
have no trouble
in locating
it
properly, then
remove the
nails
and apply the

in
finish.
The
directions for polishing are found
Lesson 56.
In driving the nails
after the surface
far or
has been polished be
careful not to drive
them too
the finish will be cracked
about the heads.
198
LESSON
While
this is
59
it
MATCH STRIKE
a "useful
article"
is
a waste of time to
to
make
it
solely for use.

If
a purpose.
Time is too precious you have made the first study
spend
for
such
piece, the bench-
hook, and the chamfered bread board, and yet feel that you
.1
e
Jl
00
Fig.
274
Match St tike
Fir 2.
Strike
do not understand planing and chamfering well enough

make, properly, one
of the
to
waste paper baskets,
make
this
piece as a study of planing, but do not allow the thought of
simply "making something" to influence you.

29, you should study these thoroughly as you proceed.
199
This lesson being a review of Lessons 13, 14, 18, 25 and
Follow
for a
the
drawing (Fig. 275) closely, or make a drawing
different size
and follow
that.
Be
first
sure to leave
all
edges and
corners straight and square, as in the drawing.
Smooth the
do nice
surface for a
class finish
it
finishing.
Do
not
mutilate
and thus learn to by line carving,
stamping, or other "decoration."
LESSON
To make
match
the
60
MATCH SAFE
the back of this
safe (Fig.
directions given for
276) follow making

274).
match
strike (Fig.
The octagonal receptacles are made in one piece, direcmaking which are in Each end is finished and bored, and then the piece cut in two. As the trysquare head will not rest
tions for
Lesson 68.
firmly against the octagon, a
thin piece
is
held between
the head of the try-square and
the octagon (Fig. 277).
The
Be
parts are held to-
gether by nailing and gluing.

sure that each part
is
thorFig.
oughly smoothed and sand-
276 Match
Safe
200

papered
Read
before
putting together.
the di-
rections for sand-
papering before
doing
for the
this
this
work,
of in
beauty
is
piece
perfectly finished
s
u rfa c e
and
Fig.
277-
Lining
Around Octagon
edges.
Unless
every part
is
size of the
-^ r>c
drawing (Fig. 278)
>
c=
and every surface and

edge straight and
square you
fail
>
^n
to cor-
rectly answer the

-!-;
problem though your

piece
3Q
may be usable. The piece of sand'
paperfor the 'strike"
may be
cut from a
1 '..
sheet of No.
by
//
laying the sheet, pa-
per side up, on a cutting board

a knife or
and using
it
may be
in Fig.
torn as
shown
121.
201
LESSON
The basket shown
in Fig.
61
10 inches high and
larger basket
WASTE PAPER BASKET

279
is
9%
inches across the bottom inside.

better for most purposes.
If no thin stock is ^-inch stock and split have been finished. In this work follow direc-
would be
at
hand the
sides
may be made from

edges and ends
after
the surfaces,
tions
first
for
working the
study piece except
that as
each piece
is
to
be
split
you
will
place
face-marks on both surfaces
and have
true.
both
surfaces
Read
':'
"'
Lesson 29
for directions
for trimming th e corners
When ready to
entirely
split
the pieces draw lines
around the
placing the
Fig.
edges,
2 79 Waste
Paper Basket
gauge
first
against
one
other.
surface
and then against the
Set the gauge to the
fin-
ished thickness of the pieces.
Plan the thickness of the thick
piece with just enough to waste in the center for sawing and
smoothing with the plane.

If after
the pieces have been smoothed on both sides you
find that the face-marks,
which should be
at
the inside, are on
202

change the face-marks so
that the
the best surfaces,
nicer
surfaces will be at the outside,
and
off
retest the edges.
To make
find
the bottom, work the piece to an exact square of
proper thickness and then lay

the point
at
and work the corners.

lines
for
To
which to draw the
cutting the
corners draw diagonals and with the compass set to the space
A-C
for
(Fig. 280) draw the arc, C-B.
Set the gauge (pencil)
the space
B-E and draw

lines
lines
on each edge (Fig. 146).

lines (Fig.
Connect these
on each surface with knife
145)
care-
and saw and plane to these.

ful to
Be
make each
so the
fit
side of the octagon
of correct
length and square with the

side
surface,
pieces of the
basket will
perfectly.
When the
base
is
complete, place
if
the side pieces in position and see
A
Fig.
BE
280-- Laying off Octagon
they are correct.
If
they are, locate
the holes and bore them from the

outer surface so that
if
the bit splits
the surface the defect will be next the

base.
Hold each
side in place
and mark through the holes
for
the holes in the base.

If
Do
After
not bore these holes too large.
the sides are to be laced read directions for boring the
holes,
Lesson 62.
all
all
the
holes
have been bored
sandpaper
surfaces ready for the finish
and then
fasten the
sides in place.
For a cheap basket use
nails instead of screws.
No
holes are required for nails in ordinary soft wood.
Fancy
nails
may be used over long brads
to improve the appearance.
or long escutcheon pins with neat round heads.
The top ends may be held by
lacing or suitable metal

fastenings.
203
Plain pieces as
silver, or
shown
in Fig.
from copper, brass or

metal shop.
fancy pieces
279 may be may be made in

of
cut
the
Fancy hinges may be used instead
bent pieces.
The
finish
may be
applied before or after the parts are
fastened together, or the piece
taken apart
finish
may be assembled and then nature of the wood and the used must determine which method to follow.
for
finishing.
The
LESSON
Read
all
62
WASTE PAPER BASKET

the directions for
making Fig. 279 and you
will
have the information necessary for making the bottom and
for
getting out the sides except that required because the sides slant.
The drawing,
(Fig.
282) gives you

of slant
the
for
amount
each side, and

try-
also shows a
piece
square with a tapered
between the
head and the side

piece or stave.
Obis
serve that the slant
height of the side
12 inches and the

length
of
the
try-
square
head about
If
5 inches.
the side
Fig.
slants
inches in
281 Waste Paper Basket
204

it
12 inches
will
slant just
inch in 3 inches.
Because
of
this relation
you can plane a piece about 3 inches long and saw

to slip over the trysquare blade as
slit
in
one or both ends
shown
in Fig.
243.
You
then measure off on the piece

3 inches
'J
and make the width

at
inch wider
at
one
It
line
than
the other.
does
not matter what the width

is,
but
it
must be
)' z inch
wider
other.
at
one
If
line than at the
you wish
to
be
very accurate in your work,
you should measure the 3

inches on the slant height
and slant length of the piece.
You can do
the
will
this
by remeasIt
uring the 3 inch space after piece

is
tapered.
probably be so slight a
to
difference as
terial.
If
it
be immaslant
the
were
This
great
would be necessary
it.
to take account of
will give
Fig.
the angle of the
282
Waste Paper Basket
side
and the try-square and
block are then used similarly

to a try-square
on square work.
If
the piece has a saw kerf at
each end
For
it
may be
basket
reversed, or two pieces

all
may be
used.
this
the angles
may be
lined or tested with

the bottom
205
one piece keeping it always in the same first you can vary the width
the
position.
If
you make
of the staves to corre-
spond to the
lengths of
sides of the bot-
tom. The edges

of
the bottom
should be work-
ed
at right-an-
gles to the face-
side
and then
to
fit
beveled
the
slanting
283
sides. Fig.
shows how to
hold
the
tryFig.
283 Try -square
on Edge of Base
squar e and
block.
Dress the pieces for the staves on both surfaces, both
ends and one edge and then lay out
by measurement from the drawing,

or else
make
a pattern from which
to lay out
each piece.
the
Finish
corners and
then
bevel both top and bottom ends to
correspond with the slant of the

sides using the block
at
and try-square
fastened to-
each end.
The
Fig.
sides
may be
gether at the top by lacing.
There
284-
Detail of Lacing
are several
ways
of lacing corners,
206
Fig. 284 shows one, the ends of the lace being fastened by
driving a small brad at an angle through the lace and into the
hole, so that the
end is not seen. Read Lesson 61 for directions

bottom.
for fas-t-ening
the lower ends
to the
LESSON
There are innumerable
63
WORK BASKET
variations in this style of basket.
It
may be Some of
edge
larger
or smaller
and various woods may be used.
the sides
legs.
form short
of a
table
may extend below the bottom and thus may be secured around the top, and may be vertical, though for most
Similar sides
uses
lique
ter,
the
are
obbeta
making
light work table. Any form of taboret may

be modified
suit
to
this pur-
pose, but such

a table
Fig.
should
285- Work
Basket
have
light legs
rails.
and
In
making the work basket,
follow the directions
for
making the
lay off a
waste paper basket, Fig. 279 or 281.
To
and
set
lay out the
dodecagon or 12-sided-bottom
first
hexagon, (Fig. 248).
Bisect one of these divisions, (Fig. 286)
the compasses to this space and mark the points for

the other divisions.
207
Connect these points with
straight lines
completing the 12-sided-figure or dodecagon.
The
staves
fastenings
shown
in the
picture at the upper ends of the
were made from links of a
jack-chain.
Three
links are re-
quired at each place.
One
exat
-t-
tends across the space and one
each end
ening
is
of the three link fast-
straightened at one end

drilled in _.
.
put through and r a hole

the stave.
Fig.
28 6 Bisecting Side ofHexagon

__
_
_.
'_.,.
After the straight end

it is
has passed through the hole

place.
so bent that
it
will
remain in
LESSON
BOXES
The
successful
64
making
of
boxes depends very largely upon

If
the truing of the ends of the pieces.
you have made a few

pieces hav-
ing squar-
ed ends you will have no

trouble
in
making
box
well
with
fitted
joints.
Fig. 287
Fig.
2 8 7Box
is
a typical
208
box and if you work carefully, studying each step, you should be able to make boxes of any size and style so long as the
corners
are
square
butt joints.
For the top, bot-
tom and
sides follow
the directions given

for the cutting board,
(Fig.ll6).Theends
of all the pieces are
first
made
square.
The end pieces are made in one piece,

and
_. Fig.
after
both ends
are squared the piece
OD 288
_,
...
Nailing
rj End
is
cut in two by J meas. .
uring the
proper
length from each end and cutting

the waste from the center.
Fig. 314.
See
As the ends
be true.
It
of
these pieces
are to form the joints they

is
must
not enough that

as
they are square

side
in
tested from
and edge (Lesson 16), but order to make a good joint the
lines of the knife point.
edges should be as smooth and
even as the
Be sure
ly
edge extends around each end. The

this glossy
b\\
289

ends of
of the
all
209
the parts
may be
left
square.
If
any are to be
rounded, read about rounding edges (Lesson 30).
The edge
bottom may be
oval, as in Fig.
made
287.
Before the sides
and ends are nailed

together,
draw
two
gauge
lines for use in
sawing the box apart

after the top
and botbe
tom are
These
in place.
lines should
drawn entirely around

both sides and ends.
Fig.
290 Testing End
In locating these
lines, allow }i
inch to
/ig
inch for saw kerf and planing, dependSelect the brads

to be used in nailing the
ing upon
how
well you can saw and plane.
top,
and be
are
far
sure that the

lines
enough
from
the top so that
neither saw
nor plane
hit
will
the brads.
Also select the

Fig.
291 Transferring Meu surement
hinges an d
210

Make
the border beneath the cover wide
catch.
these.
enough
for
After these things have been done draw the lines with
the spur end of
the gauge.
Just
when
to
do sandpapering
on such work
depends a good
deal on the tools
and bench you

are using.
If
the
bench
is
clean
andyou can keep

the pieces from
being marred or
soiled while putFig.
292 --Nailing
Brace
ting
them
it is
to-
gether,
ter to
bet-
do all the
sandpapering
at
once before
In this
doinganynailing.
case be careful
not to
a d y
injure
of
the
joints
and do
no sandpaperi
n g
on an
Fig.
joint surfaces.
293
Adjusting
Box Bottom

For
this
211
of the
box the
joint surfaces are the ends

of the side pieces
and edges
end pieces, the edges

which these
surfaces,
fit.
and the places against

latter
As you cannot avoid sandpapering these

as little as
do so
you can while finishing the
rest of
the surfaces.
Another plan
is
to sandpaper only the inside or face surfaces
and ends
of side pieces
and both
surfaces of the
end pieces,
Fig.
294 Clamping Box
Bottom
then
after nailing these together
sandpaper the outside surfaces
of the sides.
Sandpaper the inside surface and ends and edges

bottom, then nail
the box
is
it
of the
on.
Do
the same with the top.
After
ripped in two and the hinges and catch are in place, sandpaper the top side of the top. The bottom side of the bottom need not be sandpapered.
In nailing the box together calculate the location of the brads and draw a pencil line across the side. Start all the brads for one side, (Lesson 21). Also draw a pencil line on
212
the face-side at which to locate the inner surface (the face

surface), of the
Fig.
to
Place the pieces as shown in end piece. 288 and drive one brad near the front edge. Examine it see that it is even with the line on the face-side and then
apply the try-square as shown in Fig. 2S9.
The
try-square
may
also
be held
end
as
shown
in Fig.
290.
Next
nail the piece to

in
the other
in the
same manner.
Be very accurate
having the locations of the ends identical.
'5
Box
in Position
for
'
Place the face-edge of the other side against the one which
has been nailed, (Fig. 291) and mark the location for each
end.
Draw
lines across with
the try-square and pencil, and

nail this
also lines for the brads
on the outside and
piece to
the ends.
Test the piece with the try-square and

Dal brace
if
necessary nail a
in Fig.
on what
is
to
be the top as shown
292.
is
The brace may be
nailed at one end, then after the box

squared,
for
213
the
other end nailed.
The box may be
tested
squareness by measuring from corner to corner with a rule
or stick.
(See Fig. 225.)

is
When
both measurements are
equal the piece
square, providing the ends
and
sides are of
equal length.
Fig.
296 Ripping Box Apait

Its position is
The bottom
is
the next part to be nailed.
located by measuring in from each edge and end.

position of the brads
location.
Calculate the
and draw
light pencil lines
showing their
The
lines parallel with the
edge should be drawn
with the pencil end of the gauge and those across the ends
with pencil and try-square.
Drive the brads so their points
214

hinder the bottom slipping, place the bottom on the bench
of the
will
and adjust the body
box upon
it,
(Fig. 293).
Both can
then be turned over and the brads driven home.
Another meth-
od
is
clamping
in
the bottom
place by securing
the lower jaw of a
clamp
in the vise
placing the box

and bottom
c'.amp.
in the
Tighten
the clamp but a

Fig.
297
View of Back of Box
trine,
then adjust
the parts,
and
when
the bottom
is
in
place apply another clamp.
(Fig. 294).
Release the clamp from the vise and turn the box and
clamps over (Fig. 295).

side.
Drive at least one

of
brad through the bottom into the edge
each
KÂ
Drive one or two brads into each end.
into the
These brads may be driven but a little way edges and then the bottom removed
to hold
it
and glue applied
more securely, the
points of the brads helping to find place
and
keep from slipping.

driven and
will
set.
The
brads should then be

Fig.
The
securing of the bottom
hold the box square and
(Fig.
now the brace 292) can be removed. Then the top
298
should be nailed, or nailed and glued, into place
in
the
same
manner.

To
same
rip the
215
box
in two, place
it
in the vise (Fig.
296), the
slowly,
as
the
piece
(Lesson 20),
and work very
reversing the box the same as a solid piece.

to a tight joint
Plane the edges

of the
and then put a clamp on each end

Fig.
box
(Fig. 295), to hold the two parts in place as you nail on the
hinges and catch.
287 shows the catch in position.
There
is little
need
of directions for putting
on
this style of
fastenings.
is
They should be
carefully located
on the
joint.
It
especially necessary that the hinges
be
in exact line
and the
center of the pins on which the hinges turn be exactly over the
joint.
Figs. 297
and 298 indicate how the hinges are located.
LESSON
The wagon box
tion indicated in follows the
65
of construc-
WAGON BOX
same general plan
Lesson 64.
The
corners should be carefully
Fig.
299 Wagon Box

if
nailed,
and
it
will
look better
the sides extend beyond the
ends as in Fig. 287.

as
The
rear
end
of the
box may be made
shown
in Fig 299.
216

As you
will
wish to use this box on your wagon you

suit
will
plan
all
dimensions to
your needs.
First lay out the sizes
you want, making a rough sketch.

material you have
Then
if
look
over
the
and change your

for
plans,
necessary.
Make
and
of
a complete drawing before beginning work.

all
Be
sure to read
the
directions
planing,
sawing,
sandpapering
finishing before beginning work, so as to insure the
making
a nice box.
Do
not try to do this problem until you have

first
solved several simpler ones including the
study piece.
LESSON
NAIL BOX
divisions to suit the sizes
66
number
Nail boxes are, of course, varied as to size and
of
and
varieties of nails to
joints, as
be held.
sufficient.
For ordinary use the simple butt
shown, are
Fig.
300
Nail
Box
After you have learned to use a larger variety of tools you can
make nail boxes containing more difficult joints. The box shown in Fig. 300 is similar in
construction,

adding
partitions
217
and omitting the cover,
to that illustrated
by
By following the will no doubt make this nail box in first class
Fig. 287.
directions given in Lesson 64
you
15
-2h
shape.
If
you do
not want the size
T
4
shown in the drawing, Fig.

301,
make
drawing to
suit
Fig.
your wishes. The

partitions should
301 Nail Box

all
be made
at the
same time
as the
ends and
lined for length at
one time the same
as the rails (Fig. 182).
You must then work

is
exactly to the knife lines.
The
difficulty
to stop at the line.
LESSON
NAIL BOX
Before attempting to
67
of this
make
287
box
type you should

will
make one
to
similar to Fig.
or Fig. 300.
is
This
help you
understand
how
are
this
box
sides
made.
Follow the same
directions for
making the
and bottom.
grain
of
The ends
made
so that the
the
wood
is
vertical instead of horizontal as in Fig. 287.
In shaping the
ends you follow the same method as in making the other

pieces except that you follow the directions in Lesson 29 for
cutting
off
the corners.
Fig.
The drawing,
303,
shows a partition beneath the

This
handle lengthwise of the box.
may be omitted
or
it
may
218

of the
be placed crosswise
partitions
may be
used.
box as in Fig. 300, or two or more These may be all of the same height
Fig.
302
Nail
Box
or they
may be
made
of different
izi
heights.
The handle is made in the same

-+
13
way
as the cvlin-
*-
/3i
..; 303
Nail
-,.-^-
Box

der, Lesson 68.
It
is
219
slipped into the ends before they are
nailed to the sides.
brad
may be
driven into the handle to
prevent turning.
LESSON
The making
if
68
not a difficult task
CYLINDER
of a cylinder
by planing
is
you are careful
to
first
make
the piece exactly square in

to increase the
section, then octagonal

of sides systematically,
and continue
being sure
all
number
sides are alike before
proceeding
After
to the
next larger number.

has
the
piece
been made an exact square by
following the directions for planing and testing (Lessons 4 to
11) make
it
into an octagon.
Fig.
304
Cylinder
Turn the
is
To
lay off the

it
octagon place the piece on the bench and

as
will
hold the rule on
shown
in Fig. 305.
rule to
such an angle as
use ten of the regular divisions of the

If
scale in the width of the surface.
the piece
% inch wide
this
you can turn the rule until 10

extend exactly across.
If it is 1
of the Vie-inch divisions will
inch across, the rule should be
turned to use 10 of the ^6 -inch divisions.
By
method
220

of getting three-tenths of the width,
you have an easy way

can
for
after placing the rule so that
you have ten equal divisions, you

three
of
mark
off
from one edge,
these
divisions,
or
three-tenths of the width.

Set the pencil
end
of the
marking gauge and
line
each
corner of the piece.
Hold the gauge

line
against each corner in
succession without regard to the face-marks.

until
Roll the piece
each side has one
upon
it,
then reverse the piece
end
for
end and draw the other
four lines.
Fig.
305
Dividing to Get Three-tenths 0/ Width
These
lines,
if
you have done the work properly,
will
be
the guides for planing the octagon.
Plan to leave the lines,
planing only to them.

first,
it
There makes easy the finding

is
are two reasons for doing this,

of
any
error in your
work and,
second, the fraction, Ho,
little
too large.
is
better spacing to use
on
larger pieces
seven twentyis
fourths, but for small pieces a three-tenths division
better.
Yet another method
of
making an octagon
is
shown
in
Lesson 61.

To
vice as
221
plane the corners
off,
the piece
may be
held in the
shown
in Fig.
306
or against the stop as
shown
in
Fig. 307.
Place an
on each surface between the gauge
Fig.
306 Planing an
Octagon
lines so as to easily distinguish the original four sides after the
corners have been planed
off.
it
Test every side by measuring with the rule, holding
in
Fig.
307 Planing an
Octagon
222

same manner
to
the
as in
measuring the chamfer (Fig. 86).
All
the sides should be of the

carefully
same width.
If
is
they are not, look
find
where the mistake
and
rectify
it
if
you can.
Test the octagon by holding the trysquare the same as in
testing
will
a chamfer,
Fig. 84.
Any
variations
in
the octagon
show
in the cylinder, therefore

of the
be particular about making

(Fig. 308).
each side
octagon exactly correct.

off
Next, plane
each corner
If
of the
octagon, making a piece
of 16 equal sides.
this
it,
does not make the piece as nearly

plane
it
round
as
you can plane
to a
32-sided piece.
The
Fig.
308
sides
Octagon
larger the piece the
more
is
you can make with the plane

For small pieces,
for larger
before
it
appears to be round.
such
as
dowel rods, 16 sides
usually enough;
pieces you
may be able to make 64 or even 128 nicely formed surfaces. The longer you continue making regularly formed angles the better cylinder you will make and the quicker you will
complete
it.
After you have
made
as
many
regular sides as you can,
look for any irregularities and plane
the work should be well done, for

will
them down. This part of no amount of sandpapering

sandpaper the cylinder
as
take the place of careful planing.

the
After
planing
is
finished,

directed in Lesson 25
.
223
Be
careful to
keep
it
straight to the ends.

is
In cutting
off
the ends of a cylinder
it
well to clamp
it
Fig.
309 Sawing End of Cylinder

as
between two pieces
shown
in Fig.
309 and draw
lines
on
the pieces to saw by.
Saw very
slowly to avoid slivering.
LESSON
Fig.
cal
69
1 is
TOWEL ROLLER
310
illustrates
the towel roller and Fig. 3 1

size
a mechanito suit.
drawing
of
it.
The
and shape may be modified
Fig.
3 1 0 Towel Roller
224

The back
or
main part requires the same working
as the
bench-hook.
w
f-<g.
311
Towel Koi.ei
The ends or bracket pieces may be made manner as the brackets (Fig. 163).
in the
same
The new
features in the
construction are the roller and

the slot into which the roller
fits.
The
directions for
mak-
ing the roller are found in
Lesson 68.
has
After the roller
been
made
holes
are
bored in each end and hard-
wood dowels
the bearings.
center,
Fig.
inserted to form
To
find the
measure
across
the
312
Boring Slot
end
in several directions,
each
time Bore the hole as directed

in
marking
the
center.
Lesson 28 on boring.
the point for the bearing, bore a
To make
been bored
in
the slot in one of the brackets, after a hole has
from the side
at

hole in from the top end meeting the hole which
bearing.
will
is
225
to
form the
material
(Fig. 312).
to
Bore
this
hole so that
little
need
slot.
be removed,
slot
in addition to the boring, to
complete
the
The
can then be finished with a knife.
Fasten the brackets in place by nailing and gluing.

sure that each part
is
Be
is
properly sandpapered before the whole
put together.
LESSON
This
If
is
70
you can do good planing.
REVOLVING BOOK RACK

an easy
article to
make
if
you have made the study piece and bench-hook properly you
Fig.
313 Revolving
Book Rack
can, with careful work,

it
make
this
book
rack.
for
if
Do
not attempt
to
until
you are able
to control
your plane,
you attempt
square the ends or joint the edges of the thin pieces before you
have a thorough understanding
of the
elementary principles of
226

may form bad
of
planing you
If
habits that will cause
much
first,
trouble.
you make one
the waste paper baskets
you
will
receive a larger benefit from making the book rack.
The base
bottom
fering
of the
it,
is
made
in the
same manner
as
the octagonal
for
basket (Lesson 61).
For directions
chamof the
review directions in Lesson 18.

is
The bottom
revolving part
to
made
the
make
this
piece true
same as the cutting board. Be sure and square in every particular, for
unless
it is
correct the sides
may
not
fit
properly.
Fig.
314-
Piece for Ends of Book Rack
The ends
are easiest
made by
dressing up two pieces, each
long enough for two ends, finishing them as in Fig. 314 and
then cutting them
in
two.
This
will
be much easier than

If
attempting to work each end from a short piece.

a piece
you have
which
is
very straight and out of wind and long enough

it
for all four,
you can dress
to size
and
finish
two ends, cut
them off and then finish the other two. This is the quickest way if you have a piece sufficiently straight. The two cross strips should be worked as one wide piece,

apart
227
the ends squared and rounded (See Fig. 149) and then ripped
and the remaining edges jointed. Lay off and bore the hole in the center
If
of
the octagon and
countersink for the screw head.

will
you use a
inch bit
it
be the correct
size for the
shank of a No. 12 screw.
Find
the center on the bottom side of the square piece and bore a hole for the threaded part of the screw.
that will reach nearly
Plan to use a screw

If
is
through the piece.
the pieces are
y% inch and
is
inch and the countersink
such that the head
barely below the surface, a lj^ inch screw will be the correct
length.
be used.
By making the countersink deeper a 1 inch screw can The head must be enough below the surface to
rests.
allow for the screw turning without injuring the surface on
which the base
Lay
off
and bore holes

for
for the
screws in the upright pieces.
inch round head screws. been bored, place the piece in position and mark the places on the edge for the screws. Number the ends and the bottom so that they can be returned to the
These should be
No. 8 by
\y 2
After the holes have
same
you
places.
Bore the holes and insert the screws, for

drill
this
will
need the automatic

two
fine holes in
(Fig. 187).
for the
Drill
each end of each cross piece
brads.
Nail these to place, testing the sides with the tryat right
square to see that they are
angles to the base.
This Rack
It
may be made
of soft
wood
or
any cabinet wood.

If
may be
felt
finished in any of the ordinary finishes.
varnished
washer about 3 inches in diameter should be placed

For other finishes a piece
paper
around the screw, above the base.

of thick
will
be
sufficient.
is
The base
of Fig.
304
12 inches across and y% inch thick.
228

'
The square revolving base is the same size and j inch thick. inch inches long, 5 4 inches wide and The ends are 5 inches long, " inch wide thick. The cross rails are 13
!
'
.j
'.,
j4
inch thick.
The
changed
plan of
sizes
given
make
very
nice
rack
but
to sizes suitable for 8vo. or larger books.
may be The same
construction can be used in making a rack of two
shelves, one above the other.
Another and simpler modification

pieces.
is
to use but
for
two
of
vertical
These should be wide enough

to the
two rows
books.
They should be fastened

keep
it
ends
of the
lower piece to
from warping.
support the ends and furnish a division between the two
To
rows of books, rods are placed across the center and extended
through the sides to receive pins, as
in Fig.
235 or a board may

,
be
fitted
between the uprights and held in place with screws. The directions for making this book rack and Fig. 209
all
include
the essential information for
making
a variety of
in place
of
simple racks.
of the
\i
Ends
similar to Fig.
314 may be used
frame ends
in Fig.
209.
They would then be made
inch stock and held in place by screws passing up through
the bottom into the lower ends of the end pieces or supports.
The base
for
such a rack may be plain rectangular or cham-
fered around the upper surface.
The end
little
supports
the same width as the base or a
narrower.
may be They must be

of the base
narrower
if
the edges of the base are chamfered.

to the
The end supports may be fastened

similar to an
ends
end
in fig.
313.
As there would be no cross rod
to hold the ends in
place larger screws must be used.

legs.
The
ends may extend below the base and form
229
LESSON
71
SHOE BOX
Fig. 315 illustrates a box suitable for shoes.
Fig.
316 gives
the sizes.
Carefully study Lessons 38,

this box.
39,
and 40 before
beginning
The
four pieces
which form the sides and ends are the
fir,\>t
ones to make and should be carefully dressed out of wind and
-,JI^^P
i
^*^^^^^^îf;^^,^--v,-;
J|
in
* 1
*$m
;
lot
iy .X|
ML
Fig.
315 Shoe Box
squared on edges and ends.

piece, follow the
nailing together
directions
is
To
bevel the ends of the side
done
in
on page 144 (Fig. 198). The the same manner as the nailing of
Dowels may be used
the
as
rails
for
the taboret (Lesson 40).
shown
in Fig. 200.
230

Although no glue blocks are shown
in the corners, they
may be used
as in Fig. 199.
Plane the rough surface of the
block by holding the piece

against the stop, Fig 307,
or
tack
two triangular
317.
holes are
pieces on a board as shown

in Fig.
If
to
be bored
for
screwing
or nailing
on the legs do
until
not put any nails into the
glue-blocks
all
the
boring at the corners has
T901-
* *b
been completed.
Remember
bottom
to leave the glue-blocks short
enough
to allow the
to rest against their lower ends.
To make
the bottom, dress one surface, one edge and one

end.
231
See that the finished corner
fits
a corner of the box and
mark so that you can always place it in the same position. Mark the length of the bottom at each edge, draw a line to these marks and then saw and plane to the line. Mark the width in the same manner and rip and plane the edge.
Make
the legs as directed for Fig. 180 or Fig. 195.

first
If
tapered they should be

(See Lesson 50).
made
straight
and then tapered.

hinged as
in Fig.
The
318.
top
is
of
two pieces
of equal thickness
is
I he width of the two parts
not material, except that the
narrow piece
should be wide
enough
of
to re-
ceive one end
hinge.
with
Some hinges
are
made
the two parts
differing
in
Fig.
31
Planing
in
Trough
length, therefore
it is
best to procure the hinges and fastenings before
making
the drawing.
Instead of the catch shown in Fig. 319 a hasp
and pad lock may be used.

place.
Do
not attempt to use any hinges
or locks that necessitate the cutting of the
wood
lid
it
to
fit
them
to
The use
of
such hinges and fastenings belongs to the
more advanced problems.

to strain the hinges a chain
To
is
hinder the
opening so
far as
fastened to
and the end

for this
or
front side of the box.

It
Jack chain can be used

it
purpose.
should be securely fastened or
will
This box
may be
modified in
soon come many ways to
loose.
adapt
it
to
232

The
sizes
other uses.
may be changed
to those of a large
chest, or to those of a jewel box.
Ornamental corner pieces
may be
substituted for the legs, or the corners
may be
If
left
square and covered with ornamental metal work.

is
the corner
as
trimmed
in
Fig. 315
and only a thin

piece used in
place
of
the
legs
one
piece top
be used.
may The sides may be rounded and

extend beyond
the
ends
the
same as Fig. 287. This would require

a
longer top.
The bottom
would be the
same
Fig.
as in
318
53
316.
If you make box you must be careful to use dry lumber. Some boards will warp or twist much more than others. Try to get
a large
those that will remain straight.
You can
will
get
some idea
of
what boards
will
warp and what ones
not by examining
tl
them
in
the pile or by laying
them out where you can watch
233
LESSON
TABORET
These
taborets,
72
Fig.
319 and
Fig.
322, show forms of
construction which
may be
applied to a large variety of tables
and taborets and
similar articles.
Before attempting to
make
these you should have learned to plane, saw and bore holes.
The top maybe octagonal,

as
shown
in
Fig.
319,
or
square,
gonal.
Fig.
320, or hexa-
The block into which

are fastened
is
the
rails
of the
same shape as the top. The size and number of rails for
each leg
may
vary.
The
legs of Fig.
319 may
be fastened
to the top with
dowels, as shown, or with two
round head blued screws

each
leg.
in
Directions are
and
in
found in the general directions for using screws
Lessons 38 and 39.
To
line
locate dowels
draw a
at
Fig.
319 Taboret
across
each leg
the
point which will be opposite the center of the edge of the top,
also
mark the center
of
width of the leg.
Locate the center in
length of the edge of the top and place this point opposite the
center line on the leg (Fig. 321).
Make
mark with the
point of the knife for each dowel, marking on the line which
234

of the top.
is
on the leg and that on the edge
With
knife
and
the
try-square
extend
marks on the edge across

the center line.
At the
points where these lines

cross
and
at
the line on
the legs the holes for the
dowels should be bored.
Bore the holes into

the edge of the top about
two inches, and into the

legs as far as
you can
of the bit.
without leaving a mark

(-
j-f
from the spur
Lesson
full
35
gives quite
information regard-
ing dowelling.
Try the parts

gether and
if
to-
they are
correct take them apart and smooth them ready

for
the stain or
finish.
See Lessons 25 and 36.
Glue the dowels into

the legs
first;
straighten
them them
carefully
and allow
glue
to dry.
rails
Then
the cross
or spindles
into the legs
Fig.320-Tabo>et
block and
at
and center the same

time glue the legs to the top.
thoroughly with the try-square
235
Look
at
carefully for
wind and
rails.
test
both top and cross
Glue-blocks
may be used where
the legs join the top, the
ends of blocks being well smoothed.

only glued and clamped. In
all
They may be
nailed or
your designing or modifying of the given designs

careful to consider the matter of strength.
you should be
is
This
controlled not only by the sizes of the parts, but also by the
of joining.
methods
Before making any radical changes in

all
the design you should study thoroughly
the forms of joining
given in the text.
This will include

dowelling, blind
screw (Fig. 171),

nailing,
gluing,
blued head screws, round joint, pinned

joint, etc.
of
Fig.
321 Marking for Dowels

It is for
Each these methods has
its
advantages and limitations.
you
to learn the features of
each and then make use
of those
best suited to your project.
Do
not consider your drawing

of
complete when you have only the outline

plan every joint and show in the drawing
structed.
joints,
each part, but

it
how
will
be conof the
Your best method
of
determining the sizes

is
nails
or screws to use
to study those given
and
determine the sizes in your project by comparison.

designing to be done while you are
oret or other article or
at
Leave no
work making the tab-
you
will fail to
get the largest benefit
from the work.
236
LESSON
TABORET
This problem
is
73
ends
a review on planing surfaces and
(Lessons
to 28),
working angles (Lessons 49 and 62) and the

(Lessons 42
or octagonal
to 45).
making and use
of spindles
The
top
may be square
322
set as in Fig.
or Fig. 323.
and the legs may be By comparing this design with

Fig.
319 you
will
under-
stand that
it is
similar in
plan of construction, the

chief
difference
being
the use of parts not at

right angles.
By study-
ing this design and com-
paring
will
it
with others you
be able to work out
new designs from such

right angle constructions as Figs. 203, 209, 232,
256,
in
all
etc.
Notice that
these constructions
is
the angle
Fig.
on but one
is
322 Taboret
at this
side of the piece. This

as difficult a
problem
as
you ought to attempt

five or six legs in
time.
A change
to Figs.
for
from four to three,
problems similar
319 or 322
is
pos-
sible without
meeting any problems
which you have no

fast-
instructions.
The
first
glue blocks to which the legs are
ened should be
secured to the ends of the legs by either

gluing and nailing or screwing.
the side which
fits
237
They
are then dressed
on
against the top to the exact angle required,
and the holes bored
for screws
for fastening to the top.
Lines should be drawn on

the top for the outside surface
of the
legs
and
also for the
edges.
Make
the center block
and
spindles.
Glue them
in the legs
to-
gether.
Bore holes
and
Fig.
323 Taboret
insert the spindles.
Place the legs in place on the inverted top
and
test
each angle carefully.
Adjust the legs to the lines on
238

if
the top,
you can, and
if
not,
make such
wind and
variations as are necto the proper angle.
essary to bring the legs out of
Mark the
the pieces
all
positions for holes for screws in the top, separate

holes,
and bore the
and then smooth and sandpaper

the spindles to place and then
After the
the parts.
In clamping,
quickly insert
first
force
the screws.
screws
are
in
place
adjust the joints at the spindle ends
and
finish tightening the
screws.
LESSON
This lamp stand
74
an advanced study
in
LAMP STAND
324)
is
planing, chamfering and making
glue joints, and should be pre-
ceded
by
all
the
work
to
Lesson 20.
The beauty of
exact
the stand definish,
pends upon perfect

shaping
It
is
and
and
if
of
edges
chamfers.
not difficult
you understand the work, but

cannot be well done by piecemeal, puttering methods.
Each piece should be made

according to the drawing, (Fig.
if
325) or to a drawing of your own, you prefer to change the dei.
Many changes
of
design
Fig.
32f
Lam}
are possible
which require the

use of no tools not used in making this.
239
In making the column, glue two pieces to one side (Fig. 326) and then dress them to a taper that will allow of the proper thickness for the remaining side. You will find help in making this column by the study of directions for the column
in
Lesson 41.
In squaring the ends use a block
your try- square the same
on the head
and 62.
of
as in working the angles in Lessons
49
The parts are fastened together with

screws.
These screws should be used

column, four in the
secured to the
in the base of the
bottom board and three in the column

top.
After the top
is is
column the thin piece

After
all
glued on, cov-
ering the screw heads.
the parts are
made and
of the
fastened together they should be taken

apart, except the pieces
on top
column, and sandpapered.
Read
to use
Lesson 25 before attempting

the sandpaper.
Some of the changes which can be made are an increase or decrease of

the sizes, keeping the proportions the
Fig.
325Lamp
Stand
same, a change in the outline by using another form
of orna-
menting the corners, the making

of
of all the parts octagonal, or
some other
outline instead of rectangular.
Sometimes cross-
arms are
fitted to
the column to support the shade, or the
240

is
frame of shade
made
of
wood.
Such constructions
It is
are
not most suitable for such pieces.
better to
make both
Fig.
326
Gluing up Colw
the shade frame and

of metal.
its
supports, or attachments to the column,
LESSON
75
UMBRELLA STAND
There is little about the making of this umbrella stand (Fig. These 327) with which you are not familiar except the legs. are the first parts to make, as they require clamping, and you
can then work on the other parts while the legs are
clamps.
In
in
the
making the
legs, after the stock has
been cut
to
rough
first
length, joint a side
and edge
of
each piece.
The
side
jointed will be the inside of the leg
plan so that the best part of
The edge first jointed will The edge which fits piece.
face
will
and therefore you must the piece will be at the back side. be the outside edge on the wide
against the wide piece will be the
edge
of the
narrow piece.
Plan so that the best surfaces
be where you want them to be. Glue the pieces together before tapering them.
In order

to hold
241
them
easily while gluing, drive

Start
is
about four brads along
each corner.
these brads before applying the glue so
that after the glue

their
on the surfaces the brads

adjusting the corner.
will
re-enter
legs
places and
assist in
Two
may
be clamped
I
at a
time, as
shown
in Fig. 329.
As these pieces
Y&i 6
r~
H
îM
1
-*&-
_^1Jl H*
10
t
Fig.
_L
Stand
327 Umbrella Stand
Fig.
328 Umbrella
must use plenty of clamps.

of
each leg.
edge draw a
The next step is to taper each piece Mark the width at each end and with a straightPlane, or saw and line as shown in Fig. 330.
the umbrella rack are
plane, to this line.
The
rails for
made
in
two
sets of four
242

rails differ in
each.
the
either
By completing the drawing ( Fig. 328) you can learn why These rails may be made by following length. of the methods given for making the rails for Fig. 180. As there are
to
be four pieces
it
of a length,
is
essential that
you
be
very
careful
about your
end
planing.
You
at-
should not
tempt to do the
work until you

have learned to
Fig.
329 Clamping Legs
end plane on
larger ends.
Nail the four legs into two groups, testing thoroughly for
wind (Fig. 189) and squareness.

as
They may
is
require clamping
shown
in Fig.
331.
After each pair

pairs
nailed
will
and glued
likely also
and dry,
nail the
two
together.
These
require clamping.
Fig.
330

The
square pans for the bottom
243
may be made
of
copper or
shown in Fig. 251. If of cast iron, a pattern is made and the pan cast in the usual way. This stand may be modified by changing the sizes of the various pieces, or by using more or ornamental cross rails. The posts may extend above the top rail or they may be solid
of cast iron as
Fig.
331
Clamping Rails
The
nails,
to
Legs
and the
glue.
rails
pass around them.
corners and
rails
may be
of
secured by ornamental wrought
or held entirely with

if
This
latter
if
plan should be used
the stand
is
hard
wood, especially
a
mahogany.
try to
Study the designs Figs. 250 and 252 and then
make
new
design.
LESSON
TABLE
This table (Fig. 332)
joints in the legs.
is
76
quite difficult because of the glue
The
construction at the corners of the
frame
is
shown
in Fig. 333.
The
legs,
which are the
first
244

made,
are
parts
worked the same

is
as
is
those
for
Fig.
327.
Another plan which

1
often
used
to select stock
wide
1
1
Fig.
i
332 -Table
in Fig.
enough
for a leg
by lining and ripping as shown

ripping
so
face
that
334.
face
VVJ
Be
careful to plan the
the
sides will
correctly
when put
is
together.
One
and both edges should be jointed be

fore the piece
^__^
^. _^55^*^^ ^
ripped.
All four legs
may be clamped
edge and
at
once by placing
Start three or
two large and two small ends each way.

four brads into the
tion.
I
.,
place the piece in posi-
Drive the brads into the other
_
F; f-.
333
,_.
Detail
piece enough to
make
sure that they
of
Leg and
Rails

will
245
hold the piece from slipping, but not
far
enough to hinder sep-
arating the pieces for applying glue.
Test the joint on the inside
with the try-square at several places as shown in Fig. 335.

Separate them and apply glue and then clamp them.
Fig.
334 Piece
Lined for Ripping
The
pieces.
for
rails
are
made
in the
same manner
as other small
Clamp each pair together and line them so that those

will
each set
be
of equal length.
rails
In putting the
joint.
First secure the
and legs together, nail and glue each end pieces, making two pairs of legs,
Fig. 332 and then fasten
the pairs together.

rails
The
should be sandpa-
pered before they are

put in place.
is
The top made and fastened to
the frame the same as

in the taborets.
The design may be

modified
by changing
of construction
Fig.
the dimensions, for this
method
is
applicable to tables of
335 Testing Joint
246

size.
any
is
In this lesson the stock
is
'
inch thick.
The
top
23x39 inches.
at
The
legs are
28 inches long and 3 inches

at
wide
the top and 2 inches wide
the bottom.
long.
The
rails
are 4 inches wide
and 35 inches and 18 inches

T
table
with a top 20x36 inches makes a very good writing table for
school work.
Larger sizes should be of
inch instead
of
inch stock.
the frame
If this
it
Reduced
is
to 10 inches square
by 16 inches high
hard wood,
is
suitable for a taboret.
design
well executed
and finished
table.
in
makes
very handsome and serviceable
LESSON
SLED
77
The question is not "how to make a sled," but "how to make a sled without attempting some problem of tool usage
not to be undertaken at this time."
This sled (Fig. 336)
is
Fig.
336
and yet require only simple
Fig. 337, gives the
so planned as to be serviceable
problems
in
construction.
The drawing,
dimensions
of
Fig 336.
Before undertaking this problem you should have
made
at

least the
first
247
study piece and the bench-hook.

try
Remember
that
you are studying, and
to learn
all
you can while

to discover
minimi
making the sled. Examine the picture and the drawing and try why each part is so made. After you determine the reasons for making this sled in this manner
and
of this size,
if
go over each part
of the
plan
!\(
and see
the reasons for this size or form hold
good for making a sled for your own use. Do you need a sled as long, as high or as strong? Perhaps you will need to make your sled much
stronger;
if
.Ho
1
1 1
ini
so,
what changes
u
1
4h>t- -i
should be made.
The runners may be made first. Be sure to make

them smooth on all surfaces. The curve should be drawn
free-hand either on paper
l i4
i
K
and the runner marked it, or on one runner and after this one is formed the other marked from it. Study Lesson 32 and you
from
will
r l AA
have
all
the directions
1
you require
curves
for
planing the
are simply
A
4ii
The beams
straight
pieces
of
rectan-
gular section.
They must
248

for
if
be well made, with edges and surfaces true,

not square you
in
wind
or
may have
trouble in squaring the parts
when
you put the pieces together.

in
The beams may be worked

rails
one piece and then ripped apart, as the
or legs for
Fig. 181.
it
Be sure
to
make
the ends square and smooth for

of the
will
add much
to the
appearance
strips
sled.
For the triangular brace
make
pieces in the same
manner
as the glue blocks,
Lesson 38.
They should be
liable
of
wood
free
from checks or shakes, and not
to
split.
Fig.
338
Nailb-g Brace Bloc
These blocks are

and often have
tips
to
keep the runners square with the beams
when the sled turns They should be thoroughly fastened to the runners as well as to the beams and braces (Fig. 338). The top board may be plain square or with corners cut off. The runners should be of stout wood, carefully made and
to resist considerable strain
or
over.
securely fastened.
Before putting the
p.trts
together read about screws and
how
to
use them.
Fasten the beams onto the runners, then

the blocks into place;
249
next fasten the braces and
finally
the
top board and raves.
The
if
sled
is
usable without iron shoes, but will

is
slip easier
a strip of iron
fastened on the lower edge of each runner.
Thin hoop-iron can be used for this purpose and is held in place with nails, though flat band-iron, half round or half oval
iron, thick
enough
to receive
countersunk holes
for flat
head
wood screws The curve
is far better.
at the front
end
of the
runner
may
to
include the
block and rave.
This
will not
be
is
as strong a construction
and
should not be used unless there
an iron shoe
extend up
over the end and fasten to the top of the rave.
INDEX
Adjusting Plane
20
117
Curve,
Working
Board
of
117, 189
Arc
Automatic Drill
Cutting
92
136
15
Cylinder
219
13
Ax
Back Saw
Bench Hook Bench Hook Sides
Bisecting
Bit
Design
60
65, 66
Dodecagon
Doweling
123, 143,
207
233
....
10.
74
Drawing Drawing
Circle
117,178
67
.
Hexagon
207
107
Drawing Gauge Lines

Drilling Holes
.46, 49
135
Blind Screw
Blotter
126 189
Pad
End Planing
Escutcheon Pins
69
197
38,
Book Rack
Boring
151, 164, 168, 172, 225 107, 109, 135, 145
....
at
Face-Edge
Face-Marks
Face-Surface
.
40
Boring
Angle
174
207, 232
37, 42
Box
Brackets
.
37
120
8
Facing Strips
Finishes
First
150
Brads
n
40
9
122, 155
Bread Board
Chair
no
186
75, 76, 191
. .
Edge
Flat
Head Screw
Chamfering
Chest
Circle
,
Footstool
232
178
Framing Square
29 43
10
Gauge Spur
Gimlet Bit
Clamping
145,149,163,182,186,211,242,243
Glue Block Gluing

Grain of
....
138, 145, 230
Compasses
178
240
Cord Hinge
Countersink
183
Wood
26
91
n
105
16
Grinding
Counting Board
Cross Cut
Hammer
Hand Saw
Hexagon
82
77
Saw
Cross Planing
94
176
'
IXDEX Continued
Hinge
....
14.
2IS
17
Nail Set
Inspecting Material
Jack Plane
Jointing
Jointing
....
19,
Needle
(
it._
33
Octagon
Octagonal
202,222
Edge
Ends
I
....
Sharp
40. 40,
68
1
<
End
153
69,
14
Outline
'
64
121
12
Keeping
Knife
'lane
....
38
54
>\al
Edges
Paint
Lamp
Lacing
Stand
238 205
53*
1 1
Pan
for I'mhrella
Rack
.170
147
Pedestal
Pencil
Laying off Spaces

Lining
Lining
<
55
Gauge
......
43
16
19
at
!<
Angle
irner
1.
120. 174, 2 \$
Pine
...
1
Ill, 146
[32, 14]
14
.
Plane
Planer
Lining Ends
Lining Legs
....
See Surfacer)
20, 87, B8
Plane
Plane
Bit
Lining around Octagon

I
200
242
Parts
. .
20
20,23,25,2
04,1 12.
I
ining
Taper
for
Planing
Looking
Wind
....
$6,
37
15
i;.
[8,144,146
Lumber
Machine
nc
[67,189,190,203,221,231
Marks
18
Planing
Plant
Plate
Ends
69
170
Rack
[66
.
Stand
Mantle Shelf
....
.119
j;
Rack
Knife
170
Marking Gauge
Marking by Superposition
Match Safe
Mate hStriki
Pocket
157
1
Pocket Rule
Polishing
Publisher's Note
no
[98
:
,
ing
Width With Rule
Radius
Rails
7
!
117
Milled
Thumbnut
....
130
tOtstOol
. .
.
[55
Nailing
Nail
82, 171, 2
216,
Revolving Book Rack
Bos
Ripping
78,81,1 (8,1 $2,1
INDEX Continued
Rip Saw
77
Squaring Ends
Stain
Straight
Steel
...
60, 131, 144
Rounding Edges
113
12
Round Head Screws

Rule
...
Edge
31, 32
44
. .
Framing Square
Plane
l!it
Sandpapering
95, 96, 102, 103
Stropping
.... ....
29
91
Sandpaper Sandpaper Block
97
104
Superposition
Surfacer
.
157
,
16
121
Saw
Sawing
60
6o, 63, 78, 112
Swing Board
Table
Taboret
.
243
130,139,142,162,233,236
178
Sawing End
Scale
of Cylinder
223
57
Tapering
Tearing Sandpaper
Testing 28, 30, 41,
56, 158, 161,
Scouring
Box
.
191
127, 129
97
Scraping
^-Screen
245
181
183
9
Thread Screen
Screws
Towel Roller
Trvsquare
. .
.
223
.
Screw Driver
Setting
10
44, 124
28, 73, 109, 174
Gauge
Umbrella Rack
Varnishing
.179, 180, 240

12
Setting Nail
Setting
84 55
Trvsquare
Plane
Wire Edge
89
Sharpening
Shelf
86
114, 117, 119
11
Wagon Box
Waste Paper Basket
. .
215
201, 203
Shellac
Weaving
161
. . .
Shellacing
190
.
,
Whisk Broom Holder

White Shellac
Whittling
.195
11
Shoe Box
229
. .
Sighting Bottom of Plane

Sighting
21
152, 154
Lengthwise
for
....
30 34
Whetting Plane Bit
87
Sighting
Sled
Wind
Wind
Withdrawing Nail
'
34
"
246
19
III
85
Smooth Plane
Work
Basket
206
btP 27

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/OODWORK

FRANK HENRY SELDEN

ORR & LOCKETT HARDWARE

Frank Henry Selden,

intended for use by pupils who

have had no previous experience with wood-working

planned to develop the subject in a systematic manner

harmony with well established pedagogic

lessons consist of instruction in tool usage, followed

large variety of designs for articles useful in the

lessons should be thoroughly mastered so that the

time or interest to learn

of study pieces the

fundamental tool operations.

properly followed will result not only in

educational value, but also in deeper interest and

using a complete, definite text are beyond

the belief of those teachers of shop work

use of reference works.

who depend upon The use of this

text has not only demonstrated the advisability of using a text

the teacher's time, but has also

demonstrated that with

this text the pupils will

grade as we have heretofore without

expected of the eighth grade

while in the eighth grade as

received as by other means could be gained in

year high school.

WOODWORK FOR THE GRADES

would only confuse and do more harm than good.

work with but few

sizes until they are familiar,

work you are you do any work

home with rough

use lOd nails for the boards and 20d spikes

inch frame-work which

easily retained basis of

through two 2 inch pieces you

Try the lOd

inch lumber and also a 1-inch and a 2-inch piece.

you should learn to distinguish between

which are wire and those which are made

WOODWORK FOR THE GRADES

diameter than the

wire below the ordinary size are called box

Nails of very small size are

brads by the shape of the

as the larger nails

The brads have

small round heads.

that nails are for use

where the surface

be highly finished and therefore the nailhead may be

below the surface and covered with putty.

setting a nailhead the

that the surface will not finish to the best advantage

several sizes of wire.

from an assortment of brads without measuring

inch are other sizes which

driving of nails and brads

a matter of great import-

WOODWORK FOR THE GRADES