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Section 5 – The Wines of Spain
Overview of the Regions, Wines & Grapes of Spain
 
Introduction
 
Spain has made a staggeringly quick about-face in recent times, rapidlymodernizing its wine industry and finding a niche with wines that are sometimesunabashedly forward and rich – and often cheap! Spain’s wines have alsoscored big with American critics. For many years of its long history dating back toRoman times, Spain was known for oxidized whites and dried-out over-aged reds – but no more. Spain has joined the rest of the world and is quickly regaining itsplace among the best wine-producers in the world.
 
Spain has more land under vine than any other country in the world, and a largevariety of excellent
terroirs 
. The advent of new winemaking technology, and thepromise of expanding export markets (particularly the US), have breathed newlife into the Spanish wine industry. The traditions of very long aging in oak hasbeen curbed, although some of the better aspects of the tradition continue to bevery important; and the once tired and yellowing Spanish whites were given anew lease on life thanks to refrigeration. It is an exciting time for this great winenation.
Spanish Wine Laws
Spain adopted a system of laws similar to those of France. The DO laws(Denominación de Origen, or Appellation of Origin) were established in the1930’s. These laws are similar to Italy’s laws in that they include a ‘highest’category, DOCa, that carries more prestige than just the basic DO. Spanish wineis known for long periods of ageing in barrel and the current wine law allows forthe length of aging to be included on the label by using one of several standardterms.The categories of Spanish wine are as follows:Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa): This is the highest category aSpanish wine can achieve. The word
Calificada 
, although not a direct translation,is equivalent to the
Garantita 
used by the Italians – an added guarantee ofquality. Only two wines have made it into this category, Rioja and Priorat. Itseems that Ribera del Duero be awarded this status in 2008. To be in thiscategory, wines are made under stricter rules than the regular DO’s and theregions have to have a track record for excellence.Denominación de Origen (DO): This category includes all of the most importantwines of Spain and is equivalent to the AOC of France or DOC of Italy. The usualrules apply as far as region of origin, grapes used, methods of viticulture andvinification, etc.Vino de la Tierra: This is the equivalent of the Vin de Pays category of France orthe IGT of Italy. The producer is given more freedom as to where grapes may begrown, which grapes may be used and also allows for varietal labeling.Vino de Mesa: The lowest of Spains wine categories, the equivalent of the Vin deTable.The categories and terms used to indicate the length of aging:Crianza: This indication applies to red wines aged for a minimum of 24 months,of which 6 months are spent in oak containers with a capacity of 330 litersmaximum; and to white and rosé wines aged for at least 18 months.
 
 Reserva: Reserva is applied to red wines that are aged for a minimum of 36months, to include at least 12 months in oak and the rest in the bottle; and towhite and rosé wines aged for 18 months, to include 6 months on wood.Gran Reserva: This distinction is given to red wines aged for a minimum of 60months, to include at least 18 months in oak, and to white and rosé wines agedfor 48 months, to include 6 months on wood. This indication may also be used bythose sparkling wines that have been given the Cava designation and whichhave undergone ageing for at least 30 months from
tirage 
to disgorging.
Spain’s Wine Regions
Rioja
This is Spain’s most prestigious appellation besides Sherry. It is located in theprovince of Logroño and sits on the Ebro River. The name Rioja comes from RioOja (Oja River), one of the Ebro’s tributaries. The most important red grape ofRioja is the Tempranillo grape, followed byGarnacha (Grenache).Rioja is composed of three distinct growingregions:
•
Rioja Alta: Cool climate-high rainfall region.The wines made here have the mostfinesse and are ageworthy. Tempranillodominates in this region.
•
Rioja Alavesa: Southern exposure slopes with chalky soils. Very fragrant,smooth and lush reds.
•
Rioja Baja: Warmest and driest, sits closest to the river. Richer alluvialsoils perfect for garnacha tinta.Most wines are blends of all three regions and most producers own vineyards inall three. The proportion of wine from each region determines the aging potentialand to some extent the quality of the blends. Single region and single vineyardwines are a very new development but are becoming quite popular.Rioja wines are still commonly aged in American oak, as they have been for avery long time; French oak aging is a new development. Another newdevelopment is that aging times are shorter as producers try to emphasize thearomas of the fruit over those of the wood.
Catalonia and Penedés
This region enjoys an excellent climate for wine production and is essentially anextension of France’s Rousillon. Because of this proximity there is a good deal ofFrench influence in the wine styles of the region.
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