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Boulderactive 2009 - Limit Break
L
eaping men and ying women,
deafening audience and the
numerous breathtaking moments.Many tasted the sweetness of grabbingthe end hold, but numerous more thedirt on the mattress. However, successor otherwise, everyone cheered andwas wildly entertained. This effectivelysums up the exhiliration of Boulderactive2009, held across three days from 20thto 22nd March 2009.The annual bouldering competitionorganized by the NUS Climbing Club forthe 12th time, comes back bigger andbetter. Taking place at a new premise,Velocity@Novena, it was a changewelcomed by many for its betteraccessibility and abundance of foodand amusement choices, all of whichprovided both shelter and entertainmentthat served to distract when the cloudscame on Saturday afternoon.This year, Boulderactive sawa whopping number of over 300participants. Coming from all walksof life, they ranged from workingprofessionals to students to stay-at-home mothers.“It is very encouraging to see thegrowing interest in our sport,” sharedMr Nigel Chan, President of NUSClimbing Club: “We were surprised bythe number of people signing up, and itwas really unfortunate that we had toturn away some.”
(cont. on page 4-5)
in this issue
4 steps to enhanceyour competitionperformance
7
Health & Training
Join Traveling Climber inexploring one of Asia’s mostloved climbing destination- Krabi
6
Traveling Climber
Have some burningquestions on climbing? Getthem answered in ourDr. Rock column.
3
Dr. Rock
May 2009
Win
a Black Diamond PositronLocking Carabiner + ATCSport worth $55 courtesy of Campers Corner.
Pumpfest ‘09 Photo Contest
Send to dyno@sgclimb.com with thesubject “Pumpfest Photo Contest”.Submit photos and stand a chance to
2
Sin ga por e C limber s Associat ion ( SC A) is a lon g ov er due en deav our . F or man y year s , t her e hav e been man y dedicat ed climber s w ho hav e t r ied t o do t heir par t f or t he climbin g commun it y in Sin ga por e. T hey hav e v olun t eer ed t hemselv es t o r out e-set , t o belay an d t o coach. But it has all amoun t ed t o lit t le. I hav e don e a f air bit myself , but per ha ps n ot en ough. I lov e climbin g , an d I w ill r at her be climbin g t han polit ickin g. T hat is w hy my par t n er an d I w en t aw ay f or a year in Eur o pe , t o climb. But hav in g made it back , w e r ealize t hat it is t ime w e giv e back t o our commun it y.T he past is ov er . W hat w e w an t t o do n ow , w it h SC A , is t o r ebuild t he f oun dat ion f r om w hich s por t climbin g can gr ow again . T o t hat en d , SC A cr eat ed t he Nat ion al Boulder in g L eague ( NBL ).C limber s ar e most en er gized an d bon ded t oget her dur in g com pet it ion s. W hile climber s ar e f ier cely com pet it iv e , w e alw ays cheer our o p pon en t s on w ar d t ow ar ds t hat last hold. T he camar ader ie an d t he shar in g is like n ot hin g e x per ien ced in an y ot her s por t s.T hus , w e f or med SC A w it h t he aim t o get t he climbin g commun it y mor e cohesiv e t han bef or e- T o in s pir e keen youn g peo ple t o con t r ibut e t o climbin g by r out e-set t in g , belayin g or hel pin g t o or gan ize a climbin g ev en t .F or min g t he associat ion w as n o easy t ask , w e r ealised. T her e w er e t on s of admin ist r at iv e w or k an d f ilin g , diggin g in t o our pocket s t o f un d our mov emen t , cr ackin g our br ain s an d much mor e. But n o , w e ar e n ot com plain in g.P r oducin g t his co py of Dyn o t hat you hold in your han ds w as like con quer in g my f ir st 8a. It t ook a lot of w or k , but it is w ell w or t h it . W e ho pe Dyn o w ill become a par t of each climber ’ s jour n ey , let t in g us f ill you in on t he lat est ha p pen in gs , pr ov ide t i ps t o en han ce your healt h & t r ain in g r egime , an d of f er an o p por t un it y t o con n ect w it h ot her climber s , like your self . A par t f r om Dyn o , SC A has also laun ched a dedicat ed w ebsit e an d f or um at ht t p: / / w w w .sgclimb.comBein g a self -f un ded or gan izat ion , w e seek all t he con t r ibut ion s t hat w e can r eceiv e. Y ou can con t r ibut e as sim ply as- let t in g us kn ow how w e did an d hel p us t o im pr ov e , shar in g w it h us your e xhilar at in g adv en t ur e , or by don at in g t o us t o hel p us t o ser v e t he commun it y bet t er . Ev er y lit t le ef f or t coun t s an d w e ho pe
you w ill en cour age us w it h your con t r ibut ion s. C heer s t o you , C heer s t o Dyn o. Y our s sin cer ely ,
Ben T oh SC A C hair per son
A quarterly publication by
SCA needs you! Come join us as route-setters,photographer, marketing team, contributors,etc. Write in with your name and contact todyno@sgclimb.com today!
Where to get your issue of Dyno
- Pumpfest ‘09, RockaMania ‘09- Various institutions & Climb Asia- Electronic mailing list
WANTED!
All materials in this issue are copyrighted materials of SCA.
3
Q
How much rest do I need toallow my body to recover
sufciently for the next climb?
The amount of rest you need varieseach time you climb or train. It isdependent on factors such as theintensity of your climb, how oftenyou train, and your age. The harderyou climb or the older you get, morerest would be needed. A good ruleof thumb adopted by most climberswould be to climb two days and restone day.Having appropriate rest isnecessary formuscle growth(hypertrophy),which takesplace duringrest andnot duringa workout.Failure to rest may undo all the hardwork you did during training itself.Resting may sound simple, butin our day and age of 24 hourentertainment such as YouTubeand Facebook, it does not comeeasy. Lack of adequate sleep orproper nutrition is perhaps a majorroadblock to most of our youngerathletes.
Q
What should I look out for
when buying my rst pair ofclimbing shoes?
A good pair of shoes is vital to goodclimbs. While many climbers or salespeople have different ideas on sizinga climbing shoe, Mad Rock hit the nailwith their philosophy on shoe tting:Comfortable is too large. Painful istoo small.Uncomfortable is perfect.Apart from this, the following aresome guidelines to help you nd thatperfect shoe:
+ Buy from people who climb
Retailers such as Campers Cornerand Climb Asia have salespeople whoactually wear the shoes they sell, andare able to provide reliable assistancewhen you make your shoe purchase.
+ Testing on a wall
Good retailers will have walls orsurfaces for you to test the shoes on,so do not be shy to take advantage ofthe facilities.
+ Legendary “small” Uncle
Do not be affected or swayed by asalesperson’s pushy tactics. Take yourtime in nding your “uncomfortable”shoe. Never get shoes thatare too small that go beyond“uncomfortable”. It may just be thefastest way to end your enthusiasmfor climbing!
Q
How do I overcome my fear
of falling?
By falling a lot! But seriously, agood attentive belayer may be allyou need. Thus, the importance ofnding good climbing buddies whomyou can trust.Be wary of asking strangers for abelay on a project route. Getting astiff belay on a vertical route mightmean a painful experience that willleave you scared of falling for life!A good dynamic belay should feellike you are landing in a pile ofautumn leaves.If a good belayer is not available,train your mind by taking repeatedfalls on overhangs, where thechance of banging into the walls areslimmer.
ask DR. ROCK
W ant y our questions to be answ er ed? Submit them to
dy no@sgclimb.com
along w ith y our name and contact number .T he best entr y w ill w alk aw ay w ith
a
Black Diamond R ocklock tw istlock car abiner +AT C Guide w or th $82
cour tesy of
Camper s Cor ner
.
News Snippets
Mammut has launched a newbelaying device, Smart whichlocks the rope in a style similarto that of the Petzl GriGri. Asingular piece of equipment, theSmart works well for single ropesfrom 8.9 to 10.5mm in diameterand retails at half the price of aGriGri.
Smart - New Belaying Device
Bringing a whole new meaningto the term “free climbing”, agiant multi-chambered airbag,BAGJUMP, was recently tested atthe ‘
Rockmaster
’ climbing wall atArco, Italy.Russian national speed climberstackled the 20m wall solo,bringing home with them only anadrenaline rush after each fall.
Free Climbing with BAGJUMP
Suspending a series of volumes20m aboveground to create atricky 13m overhanging traverse,climbing competition Skymasterscontinues to incite spectatorfrenzy in Birmingham, U.K. Thehighlight this year was a rotatingcone-shaped volume whichclimbers had to hold onto, andspin around on in order to reachthe last section of the climb.
A Spin on Climbing
A trendy new climbing outt,Border X (
pronounced Border Crossing
) opens at OrchardCentral on 25th May. Watch outfor the world’s tallest indoor ViaFerrata, climbing walls equippedwith auto belaying stations, anda shop retailing coveted prAnamerchandise.
Border X
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