The essential

young people’s guide

to Berlin
Contents
Introduction page 5

Tips and Practicalities page 6

Itineraries page 9

History page 10

Museums page 16

The Arts page 25

Food and Drink page 34

Shopping page 40

Sport page 47

Nightlife page 51

Hostels page 55

Meet The Team page 59

„Berlin combines the culture of New
York, the traffic system of Tokyo, the
nature of Seattle and the history of,
well, Berlin“

Hiroshi Motomura
UCLA Law Professor, 2004
BERLINCOLOUR...
Spend a few days in Berlin and you will have seen all the important sights- the
Brandenburger Tor, the Berlin Wall, Museum Island. You will have had a meal
of Currywurst, and sampled some of Germany’s excellent beer. You may even
have learnt a word or two in the local language.

Stay a bit longer and you will discover Berlin in all its colours. The squats filled
with graffiti street art at its best. The underground bars that play eclectic mixes
of music fuelled by strange concoctions. Meeting people from all over the
world and tasting their delicacies in roadside vans.

You will become ‘Berliner’ in your actions. Avoiding smelly old men with their
sinister-looking dogs trawling the streets for discarded empty bottles. Chilling
in parks with 60 cent beer in the Berlin sunshine. Jumping on old-school
bicycles and cycling around the city centre in your socks and sandals.

There is so much to do in Berlin that however long you stay it will not seem
sufficient. This guide endeavours to show you some of the best and most
economical ways to get the most out of your stay in Berlin. Some are tourist
Meccas, others are a bit left of the centre; all make Berlin what it is now.

So throw yourself into the people, the music, the food; the experience that is
Berlin. Prost!

5
Ich bin in Berlin!
Berlin can be a perplexing place for the newly
arrived tourist. The train system does very little
to orientate one in a city that spreads and
sprawls in every direction, and after a few pints
of Berliner Pils, the scrambled map does not
become any clearer.
As with any city, travel guides generally lead you
to the heavily touristy areas, where vendors rub
their hands in glee as they attempt to take down
the next map-wielding, poncho-wearing
foreigner.
So here are a few tips and hints for a smooth
transition into Berlin life. Soon enough you’ll be
changing from the S-Bahn to the U-Bahn like a
pro and leading other people from your hostel to
the coolest, underground German bar around for
a round of Berlinerweiße and a late night snack
of Currywurst.
Five things you must do in
Berlin
1. Take a walking tour. Best to go early in your
stay. The guides are generally very knowledge-
able and humourous, and it’s a great way to see
the city and the important sights, get your
bearings and learn a lot.
2. Go on a kebab bender.
3. Buy a 60 cent Sternberg beer and get yourself
down to Treptower Park on a lazy sunny
afternoon. Take your frisbee for extra fun.
4. Go out at night without a plan and find
yourself at some crazy nameless pub, where you
end up dancing to Nena ’99 Luftballons,’ followed
by a good quality Russian jig, with a whole bunch
of new friends.
5. Trace the Berlin Wall. You can hardly come to
Berlin without getting in touch with its dramatic
and tumultuous history. See the History Section
for more information on where to discover the
divisive past of this city.
6
The East Side Gallery- one of the many free things to do in
Berlin.
Cash strapped backpackers
read here!
Let’s face it, things are always better when they
are free. Berlin has plenty to offer those on a tight
budget or no budget at all.
The Brandenberger Tor, Berlin’s signature statue,
is seen on everything from bank notes to trains. It
is a symbol of defiance, strength and unity, and a
must see on any Berlin tourists itinerary. (Page 11)
The East Side Gallery is a portion of the Berlin
Wall painted by graffiti artists from all over the
world. (Page 30)
The Reichstag. See where German Parliament sits
and walk up the dome to witness the Berlin
cityscape. (Page 15)
Sachenhausen, a concentration camp used in
World War II, is one of the last physical remnants
of Adolf Hitler and Nazi Germany in Berlin, and a
harrowing reminder of its omnipresent past.
(Page 13)
Tacheles, a squat that young creative Berliners
turned into a graffiti art haven. (Page 28)
Small art galleries along Auguststraße. They are
different, they are certainly individual, and they
are very Berlin. (Page 25)
Some museums are free on particular days, such
as Thursday evenings after 6pm.
The Topography of Terror is a worthwhile exhibit
created to face and accept the atrocities that this
city has witnessed. (Page 13)
DOs and DO NOTs
DO watch out for oldschool bikes screaming
down the streets at 70km an hour. They do not
stop for pedestrians and seem to relish in your
fear, so it’s up to you to avoid a collision.
DO be prepared when purchasing goods at Lidl
or other discount supermarkets. The cashiers
move at an unearthly speed and do not
appreciate those who dawdle, so have your
re-useable bags out and your change ready.
DO keep your empty bottles. Most bottles can be
returned to the vendor for at least 20 cents,
although you may have to protect them from
scavengers who will offer to take them off your
hands for you.
DO try a variety of kebabs, beer, Wurst, absinthe
and pastries. Berlin has loads of cheap and good
quality food and drink, and every now and then
you’ll come across something that will change
your life.
DO try to speak the language. In Berlin, the
majority of people do speak some English but,
like most countries, natives will be kinder to you
if you at least try a bit of German to start off with.
Currywurst- a ‘do’ when it comes to eating in Berlin!
7
Do not miss sights like the Berliner Dom
DO NOT J-walk or cross the road at traffic lights
when the little fat Ampelmann is red. Brazenly
dashing across roads like you would in Paris or
London is socially unacceptable in Berlin, especially
in front of children, so to avoid getting yelled at in
German in the middle of a road, wait for the green.
DO NOT put money in the middle of a table when
paying at a bar or cafe. They usually prefer if you
pay separately too.
DO NOT expect to get into the premier clubs in
Berlin like Watergate. The queues are long, the
clientele exclusive, so bouncers are looking for any
reason to deny you entry. If you do decide to give it
a go, dress up, try not to scream ‘tourist,’ and know
who the DJ is, and you might just get in.
DO NOT light up cigarettes in public areas unless
other people are smoking. There is an official
smoking ban in public areas in Berlin although it is
rarely adhered to. But to avoid trouble, follow the
locals and ask before smoking indoors.
DO NOT fare evade on the train. The ticket
inspectors do not have the best sense of humour
and pulling the ‘I don’t speak German’ is not going
to get you out of a fine as the directions are written
in English too. Best to just buy a ticket.
DO NOT use hostel internet if possible. Internet
cafes are ridiculously cheap here, so it is fiscally
sounder to go to your local net cafe and pay 50
cents an hour, rather than 2€ for 20 minutes which
is the going rate at most hostels..
Getting Around

Train
The train system in Berlin makes this giant city quite accessible. There’s two systems- the S-Bahn
(urban rail) and the U-Bahn (metro). The U-Bahn opens at 4am, and closes at 1.30am. The S-bahn
and U-Bahn are open all night on Friday and Saturday night. There are also trams in the east of
Berlin and a healthy supply of buses. Trams and buses usually run every ten minutes in the city
centre, and some run all night. Zones A and B will get you most places in Berlin unless going to
Schonefeld Airport. Fares to use all public transport systems are:
Adult 2 Hours: 2.10€
Adult Daily: 12€
Adult Weekly: 44€

Bicycles:
Berliners love their bikes, and biking is a terrific way to see the city. So if you are feeling energetic,
don the lycra and rent a bike! There are lots of bike stores that will rent you a bike for 8€ to 12€ a
day, and discounts often occur if you rent it for subsequent days. There are also some bicycles that
you can just pick up on the side of the road, ride around to your heart’s content and then leave the
bike wherever you finish up as it has a tracking device implanted in it. All you do is call the number
on the bicycle, pay the fee for the day via credit card over the phone, and then get the code to
unlock it.

8
Itinerary
on Oranienburgerstraße.

Day 3
If it’s a Tuesday or a Friday, start off the day at
Kreuzberg’s Turkish Market. From here you can
walk to the East Side Gallery and take in the
colours of the graffitied wall remnants. From here
it’s a five minute walk to the S-Bahn where you
can jump on a train to Treptower Park- take a
picnic for lunch, some bevvies and a frisbee!
Check out the large Soviet Memorial whilst you’re
here. Then head around the river, past a large
sculpture in the river of three men moving in to an
embrace, and end up for some drinks at the very
cool barge bar Club Divisionair (Page 54)

Day 4
Today, walk along Auguststraße taking in all the
Berliners and tourists relaxing on the grass in front of the small art galleries around this area (Page 26).
Altes Museum Walk until you end up at Tacheles to see Berlin at
its creative best (Page 28). Spend the afternoon
Four days in Berlin relaxing at a Turkish Shisha bar in Oranienburger-
straße if you will. Then, for dinner, go to
Mehringdamm Strasse U-Bahn station because
Day 1
the three men at Mustafa’s Kebab Van make the
First, visit the Reichstag, one of Berlin’s most
best kebabs in the world. Get your dancing shoes
popular sites for visitors but worth the queues
on and Russian jig the night away at Kaffee Burger
(Page 15). Next head to the Brandenburg Gate
(Page 53).
(Page 11) for a cheesy but necessary tourist
photo on your way to the Holocaust Memorial
(Page 29). From here you can work your way up
to Potsdamer Platz and down Stressmannstraße
to the Topography Terror exhibition (Page 13),
and if you’ve got any energy left, head to
Checkpoint Charlie and check out the museum –
this is best to do in the evenings to avoid the
crowds and the children on school tours (Page
14)

Day 2
Alexanderplatz has a long history in Berlin and is
a good place to do some wandering around and
take some snapshots of the Fernsehturm (Page
14), one of the city’s most famous landmarks.
From here you are only a short walk away from
Museuminsel (Page 17.), where you can enjoy
the museums or the sprawling lawn in front of
Altes Museum. Next head to Beckers Fritten for
some famous chips with special sauce (Page 36),
East Side Gallery
before checking out some of the bars and clubs

9
History
Nikolaikirche (U-Bahn Klosterstraße; 10-18:00
Tue-Sun, 12-20:00 Wed BUT closed for restoration
until Summer 2009). The area should be described
as the ‘medieval’ quarter, having been largely
obliterated during the Second World War, and only
rebuilt in the 1970s. This leads to the somewhat
unlikely architectural marriage of traditional
German streets and communist concrete blocks,
which works better than you might think. The area
The defining event of Berlin’s modern history- the fall is now home to a series of expensive but pleasant
of the Berlin Wall in 1989
touristy cafes, those up against the Spree River
Berlin is a city defined by its history. The people, being particularly popular. But it’s the small size of
sights and personality of this city have all been the Nikolaiviertel which brings home just how
deeply influenced by those that have come unlikely it was that this little collection of streets
before, and the fun-loving, active slant on life would become one of Europe’s great metropolises.
which is the hallmark of Berliners is a reflection of
Berlin’s and Germany’s history. This section is Another medieval church you could try is:
based around one question- which place is the Marienkirche (www.marienkirche-berlin.de;
best reflection of each period in Berlin’s history? U-Bahn Alexanderplatz; admission free; daily
10-21:00)- a 14th century church, incongruously
A not-bad place to start is the Deutsches set amongst the socialist architecture of Alexander-
Historisches Museum; www.dhm.de; U-Bahn platz.
Hausvogteiplatz; 5€ (U18s free); 10-18:00 daily).
Whilst a museum devoted to German, and not
specifically Berlin’s, history, this modern museum
is a great way to get a historical overview and tell
your Fredrick the Great from your Fernsehturm.
Apart from the fact that the entrance to the
exhibition isn’t signposted (it’s up the stairs to the
left as you come in), the history of Germany is told
from a modern standpoint, with interactive
exhibits and plenty to see. All in all, it makes a
refreshing change from the kind of museum
which thinks that a board on a wall which hasn’t
been changed since 1960 is a good way to tell
history.

Medieval Free Town

Berlin was a relative latecomer by the standards
of world cities, springing up out of the
bewildering mess that was the hundreds of
independent states in Germany in the Middle
Ages. As a consequence, the medieval area of
Marienkirche in Alexanderplatz
Berlin, the Nikolaiviertel, is extremely small, just
a few streets clustered around the 13th century

10
Royal Capital
Berlin’s expansion into a major European city was
thanks to the ambitions of the Kings of Prussia.
The city was turned into the centre of one of the
most aggressive states in Europe, built by
monarchs keen to prove that they were as good
at building stuff as they were at knocking it down.
The most famous and iconic product of this
period was the Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg
Gate; S-Bahn Unter den Linden, U-Bahn
Potsdamer Platz), a grand triumphal arch meant
for the victorious Prussian armies to parade
under the bronze statue of peace. Unfortunately
the first victorious army to parade under it was
Napoleon’s French army, who nicked the chariot
and took it back to Paris for eight years for good
measure. Even so, dodging the hoardes of
tourists and getting your group photo in front of
this classic symbol of Berlin is an absolute (free)
must-do. You can even see the hotel Michael
Jackson decided to ‘show off’ his son from (it’s
the Hotel Adlon, by the US embassy).
For more of the 17th and 18th centuries in Berlin,
try:
Schloß Sansoucci and Neues Palais
(www.spsg.de; S-Bahn Potsdam Hauptbahnhof;
12€ -8€ concessions; Tue-Sun 10-18:00)- this
The Classic Berlin site- the Brandenburg Gate (plus
tourists)
11
palace complex at Potsdam, a suburb of Berlin,
was the home of the German kings and emperors
until 1918.
Schloß Charlottenburg (www.spsg.de; U-Bahn
Richard-Wagner Platz; main palace 10€
(concessions 7€); Tue-Sun 10-18:00; guided tours
compulsory)- the most heavily decorated palace
in Berlin, dating from the early years of the 18th
century.
Schloß Bellevue (U-Bahn Hansaplatz, S-Bahn
Bellevue)- another late 18th century palace,
currently the residence of the German President
and so closed to the public.
Deutscher Dom (U-Bahn Stadtmitte; admission
free; Tue-Sun 10-19:00)- this 18th century
cathedral now houses an exhibition on German
parliamentary history.
Imperial Metropolis
In the middle of the 19th century the Prussian
monarchs took up the idea of German nationalism,
and managed, after more wars, to finally unite
Germany in 1871. Berlin became the centre of this
new, vigorous German empire, and the sites from
the period reflect this. Chief amongst these is the
long-windedly named Kaiser-Wilhelms-
Gedächtnis-Kirche (www.gedaechtniskirche-
berlin.de; U-Bahn/S-Bahn Zoologische Garten;
admission free; 9-19:00 daily), a church built in
1895 as a memorial to Kaiser Wilhelm I, the first
emperor of Germany. Decorated with beautiful
mosaics, the purpose of this church was to
emphasise the legitimacy of the empire and its
links to great German rulers of the past. On the
walls, incidents from the childhood of the emperor
show his fitness to rule. The church is a
propaganda statement in stone, to say: we are a
great empire now, and we are here to stay.
However, in 1943 a British bomb crashed through
the church roof, destroying almost all of this
statement. Much of the church was rebuilt in the
1960s in a modern style, which looks like an
eyesore from the outside, but inside is an
extremely atmospheric, contemplative contrast to
the original church.

Bomb-damaged mosaic of the Imperial Family in the
Kaiser-Wilhelms Gedachtnis-Kirche
If big Imperial monuments are your thing, you
could also try:
Berliner Dom (www.berliner-dom.de S-Bahn
Hackescher Markt; 5€ (3€ concessions); Mon-Sat
9-20:00, Sun 12-20:00)
Siegessäule (Victory Column; Große Stern,
Tiergarten; U-Bahn Hansaplatz; 2.20 € (1.50€
concessions); Mon-Fri 9.30-18.30, Sat-Sun
9.00-19.00)
Deutsches Technikmuseum (www.dtmb.de;
U-Bahn Gleisdreieck; 4.50€ (2.50€ concessions);
Tue-Fri 9-17:30, weekends & holidays 9-18:00)-
Germany’s emergence as a great power was
mirrored by its emergence as an industrial
powerhouse. Come here to marvel at the big
engines that made it possible.
Cosmopolitan Centre
The German Empire swiftly went the same way as
most empires, overthrown by its own people at
the end of the First World War. Under the new,
unstable Weimar Republic, Berlin briefly became
one of the most cosmopolitan cities in the world,
with more vegetarian restaurants than it has
even now, and Europe’s most open gay scene.
This was the time and place when Germany tried
to reject the grandiose ambitions of the Empire,
and part of this was trying to leave behind the
style of building. The movement known as
Bauhaus attempted to use all aspects of art and
Weimar Berlin- Potsdamer Platz in 1930
design, from architecture to kitchen utensils, to
help create the socialist utopia of which its
founders dreamed. The best place to see the
products of extraordinarily influential movement is
the Bauhaus-Archiv (www.bauhaus.de; U-Bahn
Nollendorfplatz; Wed-Mon 10-17:00; Sat-Mon 7€
(concessions 4€), Wed-Fri 6€ (3€)). This is a
relatively small museum built in 1977 to the design
of Walter Gropius, the Bauhaus founder, which
details the ideas behind the Bauhaus on a good,
free audio tour. Even for those not massively
interested in art and design and the concepts
behind them, it provides an interesting experience,
moreover because the exhibits show well just how
influential the Bauhaus ideas have been.
However, at the same time as these ideas were
being developed, lurking in the background were
forces which were opposed to everything the
Weimar Republic stood for- the Nazi Party.
If you’re interested in the Bauhaus or the products
of the Weimar Republic, check out:
Shell House (U-Bahn Mendelssohn-Bartholdy
Park)- a famous Bauhaus office block, just up the
road from the Bauhaus-Archiv
Filmmuseum (www.filmmuseum-berlin.de;
U-Bahn Potsdamer Platz; 6€ (4.50€ concessions);
Tue-Sun 10-18:00, Thurs 10-20:00)- the 1920s also
saw an explosion in the German arthouse film
scene.

12

The Third Reich
Adolf Hitler believed that Berlin would be the
imperial centre of his Reich which would last a
thousand years. Fortunately, he was wrong.
Because of British and American bombers and
the Russian Red Army, which finally took Berlin in
1945 after a vicious battle featuring the largest
artillery bombardment in history, only a few Nazi
showpieces remain. These include Tempelhof
Airport (U-Bahn Tempelhof) and the Olympic
Stadium (Page 47), where the black American
athlete Jesse Owens made the Nazis look silly by
beating the ‘master race’ at just about
everything at the 1936 Olympics. What relics
there are of this period are a much more fitting
reminder than what Hitler intended.
Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp (S-Bahn/
DB Regionalbahn Oranienburg; admission free;
8:30-18:00 daily), whilst not as terrible as the
specific extermination camps of Treblinka or
Auschwitz, is probably the best place in the
Berlin area to understand just how horrific the
Nazi rule was. The first purpose-built concentra-
tion camp, built at the same time as the Berlin
Olympics were being held, Sachsenhausen was
used from 1936 to 1945 to imprison, enslave and
kill socialists, Russian POWs, captured resistance
fighters, homosexuals, Roma and Sinti “gypsies”,
and Jews. These people were kept in cattle
sheds, forced to perform hard labour and often
“Work will make you free”- the sinister motto of the
concentration camp at Sachsenhausen
13
outright murdered. The history of this place under
the Nazis, and after 1945 as a Soviet GULAG, is
documented by a series of exhibitions scattered in
the surviving buildings, of which there are
disappointingly few. The camp was allowed to
decay until the 1960s, and so the cheaply
constructed huts have all disappeared. Despite this
(and the sometimes confusing layout of the
exhibitions) enough remains to give the place an
oppressive air. Whilst not for the faint-hearted, no
better place exists to really feel just what Nazism
led to.
If you’re interested in Nazi Berlin, you could also
visit:
Jüdisches Museum (www.juedisches-museum-
berlin.de; U-Bahn Hallesches Tor; 5€ (2.50€
concessions); Tues-Sun 10-20:00, Mon 10-22:00;
Page 25)- for a better understanding of what the
Nazis tried to destroy, try this excellent modern
museum.
Topographie des Terrors (The Topography of
Terror; www.topographie.de; U-Bahn & S-Bahn
Potsdamer Platz; 10-20:00 daily)- a free, outdoor
exhibition on the site of the Gestapo headquarters,
detailing the dirty work of Nazi rule which took
place there.
The Luftwaffe Ministry (now the Finanzministe-
rium; opposite Topographie des Terrors- not open
to public)- the fact that this strategic building was
missed in the bombing raids which flattened most
of the rest of Berlin is a potent reminder of the
inefficiency of these Allied attacks, and the civilian
casualties they caused.
Former site of Hitler’s Bunker (U/S-Bahn
Potsdamer Platz; Vossstraße)- now, believe it or
not, a car park for a 1970s East German housing
development, this site was the place from where
the Battle of Berlin was co-ordinated, and where
Hitler’s body was burned by his minions after his
suicide.
Bebelplatz Book-Burning Memorial (opposite the
Deutsches Historisches Museum; U-Bahn/ S-Bahn
Friedrichstraße)- opposite the Humboldt
university, in April 1933 the Nazis showed what
their regime would be like by burning 25,000 books
by authors of whom they disapproved, such as
Thomas Mann and Albert Einstein. This memorial
commemorates this early act of Nazi misrule.
The Cold War and the DDR
Once the dust had settled after WWII, Berlin’s
troubles weren’t over by a long shot. Berlin was
divided, like the country, into four ‘occupation
zones’ (US, British, French and Russian), which
swiftly morphed into two countries, the
capitalist BRD in the west, and the communist
DDR in the east. It was the latter which provided
Berlin with another of its most famous
landmarks - the Berlin Wall - built in 1961,
ostensibly to keep the West out, but in fact to
keep its own people from escaping there. Seeing
this most famous of Berlin’s sights is a must-do
for any trip to Berlin. However, the wall no longer
exists in one piece, since after the fall of
communism in 1989 much of it was destroyed by
Berliners themselves, famous pictures and all.
Still, there are several large sections left, such as
the East Side Gallery (U-Bahn Schlesisches Tor;
free and always accessible; for more
information, see page 30). There are other
remnants of the wall scattered over towards the
western end of the city centre, of which the
Berliner-Mauer Gendenkstätte und Dokumen- Checkpoint Charlie (plus scamsters in uniform...)
tationszentrum (Berlin Wall Monument and troubled time in history for the city and the world.
Documentation Centre; www.berliner-mauer-
dokumentationszentrum.de; U-Bahn Bernauer If Communist chic is what floats your boat, there’s
Straße; free; 10-18:00 daily) is one of the largest. more to see in Berlin, like:
Perhaps the most famous point on the wall was DDR Museum (www.ddr-museum.de; U-Bahn
the crossing point between East and West Alexanderplatz; 5.50€ (3.50€ concessions); Sun-Fri
known as Checkpoint Charlie (U-Bahn 10-20:00, Sat 10-22:00)- an interactive museum,
Kochstraße), scene of a standoff between featuring ‘the Trabant experience’. As you do.
American and Russian troops in 1961 and one of Alexanderplatz (U-Bahn Alexanderplatz)- this was
the enduring symbols of the Cold War. Today the the showpiece of the DDR, a great concrete plaza
checkpoint, which was dismantled in 1990, has dominated by the 336m high Fernsehturm
been reconstructed by a couple of local (www.berlinfernsehturm.de; 9.50€ (4.50€
‘entrepreneurs’ who will allow you to take their concessions); 9-24:00 daily), Berlin’s tallest
photo for a mere 1€ a pop. However, once you building and a great landmark to navigate by.
can fight through the camera-wielding tourists, Forschungs- und Gedenkstätte Normannenstraße
there is the Mauermuseum (Checkpoint Charlie (Stasi Museum; www.stasi-museum.de; U-Bahn
House; www.mauermuseum.de; 12.50€ (7.50€ Magdalenenstraße; 4€ (3€ concessions); Mon-Fri
concessions); 12-20:00 daily). This documents 11-18:00, weekends 14-18:00)- the repressive
the desperate attempts to escape from the east nature of the DDR didn’t just extend to the wall,
to the west either over, under, round or straight and this museum documents the activity of the
through the wall, and is a good experience Stasi, one of the most extensive and feared secret
despite the high entrance price. There was no police organisations ever to operate.
greater symbol of the division of the world into
opposing blocs than the Berlin Wall, and what
remains of it provides the best insight into this

14
Gedenkstätte Hohenschönhausen
(www.stiftung-hsh.de; Tram M5 to Freienwald-
estraße; 4€ (2€ concessions), Mondays free;
9-18:00 daily; guided tours compulsory)- near to
Normannenstraße, this infamous prison was the
main Stasi detention centre for Berlin. Check
ahead for English tours (2pm every Saturday plus
on request- tel. 0049 3098608230), and watch
out when asking for directions- many former
Stasi employees still live in the area and don’t
take kindly to being asked for its location.
One Country Again
Eventually, thanks to the incredible inefficiency
of the Communist system in Germany and
elsewhere, in 1989 a series of peaceful people’s
revolts toppled country after country in Eastern
Europe. In November 1989, the protests centred
on Berlin, and when it became clear that the
government wasn’t going to stop them,
thousands of Berliners literally tore down the
Wall overnight. The best place to understand just
how much has changed since then is the
Reichstag (U-Bahn Friedrichstraße, S-Bahn Unter
The Reichstag then...
The Russian flag flying over the Reichstag in 1945 after
the Battle of Berlin
15
...and the Reichstag now.
den Linden; entrance to the dome and roof free, to
the Bundestag public gallery by appointment only;
daily 8-22:00). Originally built under the German
emperors between 1884 and 1894 to house the
parliament which they had grudgingly granted the
German people, the Reichstag today houses the
parliament of a united (and democratic) Germany
again. The fortunes of the Reichstag have reflected
the fortunes of democracy and peace in Berlin- the
building which had housed the Weimar Republic’s
Parliament burned down in March 1933, a fire
blamed on the Communists by the Nazis and used
as an excuse to revoke democratic civil life for the
duration of Nazi rule. In 1999 the reunified
German parliament finally moved back into the
building, the dome and interior rebuilt in a
modern, open style. An important element of this
was public, open access to the roof and dome, with
an accompanying exhibition on the history of
German democracy and excellent views over the
city. The only downside of this is that too many
people want to take advantage of this- the queues
can be fearsome! It’s probably best to go at night
or in the morning- otherwise, take good company
or a good book for the wait.
Berlin has suffered a lot after the last 100 years,
and its people enjoy their freedom more than
most. So get out there, and enjoy it like a Berliner!
MUSEUMS
significant museums form part of the ‘Staatliche
Museen zu Berlin’, a central association
responsible for the organisation and administra-
tion of 17 major museums in Berlin. Although
Berlin’s abounding museum landscape suffered
devastating damages during WWII and the
infrastructural consequences can still be felt up to
this day. After the war and as an immediate
consequence of the city’s division, the collections
of the national museums were separated, yet
since the reunification these precious collections
have gradually been reassembled. Over the last
20 years, Berlin has invested an unfathomable
amount of money into the arduous process of
regeneration of its national museums. Besides the
costly renovations, the city’s museum universe
experiences a constant expansion of its
multifaceted landscape as recent years have seen
the emergence of new innovative museums, such
as the Jewish Museum or the Museum of
Altes Museum Photography. For many of the museums in Berlin,
the buildings, their architectural design as well as
A myriad of worlds their rich historical past, constitute an inherent
part of the museums’ cultural space. Berlin is
bursting with a multitude of different worlds
Berlin boasts a mind-blowing plethora of no less
inviting you to explore 3000 years of human
than 176 museums, establishing the city’s
history. Enjoy the adventure!
incontestable status as historical and cultural
hotspot of modern day Germany. Whether you
plan to explore ancient archaeological arts,
broaden your knowledge on German Expression-
ism, or intensify your dedication for American
punk rock bands, Berlin offers an adequate
museum for almost every conceivable subject.
Despite being scattered all over the vast
cityscape, Berlin’s most famous museum
complexes are located on Museumsinsel, at the
Kulturforum, around Schloss Charlottenburg and
at Dahlem, the centre for non-European arts and
cultures. Especially the prestigious Museum
Island with its impressive collection of antiquities
and ancient art and its Western counterpart, the
Kulturforum with its fascinating galleries and
captivating collections of paintings profoundly
shape Berlin’s cultural landscape. These
centralised museum complexes house Berlin’s
most celebrated venues and are ideal for
culture-heavy days of museum-hopping (make
sure to make use of the day pass which presents
Bode-Museum
culture for an affordable 4€ to students). These

16
Museumsinsel
www.smb.museum.de
U-Bahn: U2, U5, U8 Alexanderplatz
Opening times (for all museums): 10.00-18.00
Tues-Wed, Fri-Sun. 10.00-22.00 Thurs, free
entry after 18.00.
Tickets to one museum also grant you access to
all the other permanent exhibitions on the
Island.
An unavoidable destination on the itinerary of
every self-acclaimed culture vulture travelling
through Berlin’s exalted cultural landscape,
Museumsinsel accommodates Berlin’s most
celebrated museums. Wedged inbetween the
MUSEUMSINSEL
Photograph of Museumsinsel
Spree and Kupferinsel at the northern tip of the
Spreeinsel, Museumsinsel hosts an incomparable
ensemble of the outstanding history of
Germany’s historical and cultural heritage. The
origins of the Museumsinsel date back to 1810
and King Friedrich Wilhelm III’s desire to erect an
ostentatious museum exhibiting the, back then,
rather scant royal treasures. Ordered to come up
with a suitable building, Friedrich Schinkel, in
reminiscence of ancient temple architecture,
designed the Altes Museum, labelled back then
as the new museum, at least until the Neues
Museum was unveiled in 1855 (you might have
noticed that the Germans were not the most
inventive when it came to naming their
buildings). Over the course of the 19th century
the Alte Nationalgalerie (1876), the
Bode-Museum (1897-1904) and the Pergamon-
museum (1909-1930) were built, turning
Museumsinsel into the archaeological and
17
cultural centre of the Prussian state. The
sumptuous baroque and neo-classical buildings
represent landmarks of the Imperial era and
provide you with a sometimes overpowering
sense of classical architecture. If, at the time of its
inauguration, the enormous halls and exhibition
rooms were mostly empty, the imperial
adventures of German explorers and archaeolo-
gists excavating (some might even say plundering)
the archaeological sites in the Near and Middle
East ensured that there would not be a shortage
of fascinating artefacts to exhibit. Heavily
destroyed during WWII (near 70% of the buildings
were utterly devastated), the Museumsinsel has
been gradually restructured, restored and
rearranged in the post-war years. Stashed away in
bunkers or hidden in secret locations, a lot of
artefacts and artworks disappeared towards
Russia along with Soviet troops or ended up in
Western museums and Berlin’s brutal division
engendered the further scattering of these
collections. Fortunately, the reunification has
reunited the majority of the impressive and
previously-divided collections.
Yet, Museumsinsel is far from being completed as
it is currently undergoing a major renovation
process, due to finish in 2015, which will see the
different museums interconnected with an
archaeological promenade taking the visitor on a
cultural journey through the centuries. The idea
of linking up the various museums and creating a
centralised complex follows Wilhelm von Bode’s
concept of establishing a centre of arts and
culture accessible for the general public. Once
completed, the Museumsinsel will represent one
of the most significant cultural institutions in the
world. Sadly though, as the project is still on its
way, some museums are closed or only partly
open, and currently the Neues Museum (due to
open its doors again in 2009) is completely shut
while the Pergamonmuseum is undergoing local
restorations (a complete closure is being
avoided). Although Museumsinsel can be
cramped with noisy and bustling tourists
belligerently fighting their way through the
crowds to get a glimpse at the elegant bust of
Nefretiti in the Altes Museum or the picturesque
French impressionist paintings in the Alte
Nationalgalerie, do not ignore the astonishing
treasures the Museumsinsel has to offer.
Altes Museum
Altes Museum
Am Lustagarten
S-/U-Bahn: U6, S5, S7, S9 Freidrichstraβe
Admission: 8€ /4€ concessions
The Altes Museum located at the top of the
Lustgarten and right next to the baroque Berliner
Dom, was designed by Berlin’s most famous
architect Friedrich Schinkel (seemingly
responsible for most of Berlin’s 19th century
buildings) and probably represents one of the
most exquisite work of neo-classicist
architecture. The Altes Museum was one of the
first purpose-built museums in Europe,
constructed to accommodate the royal collection
of art. The building’s impressive exterior, its ionic
columns reminiscent of antique temple
architecture, and its regulated inner structure, a
grant staircase and the rotunda, emphasise its
Greek influence. In fact, the Altes Museum
evokes antique grandeur to the point that Hitler
staged his speeches in front of the pillars,
constructing an imperial image for Nazi
Germany. Nowadays, the building houses the
‘Antikensammlung’, an astonishing collection of
Greek and Roman antiquities. A neon sign at the
entrance of the museum states that ‘all art has
been contemporary’ and the permanent
exhibition illustrates the historical context of the
antique pieces of art. The exhibition is organised
chronologically moving from the Greeks to the
Romans, split into different thematic sections
with insightful information tableaux, providing
you with a well-structured and comprehensive
expedition through antiquity. Watch out for the
museums cultural treasures such as the ‘Head of
Pericles’ or the ‘Praying Boy’, who originally
18
arrived in Berlin without any arms. The Altes
Museum currently holds the Egyptian Museum
until the restoration of the Neues Museum is
completed. At the moment, the upper floor hosts
a revealing exhibition entitled ‘kulturGUTerh-
alten’ focusing on the multifarious aspects of
archaeological work. Taking artifacts from various
museums in Berlin, the exhibition shows in
different stages the minute archaeological
processes of excavation, recognition, reconstruc-
tion and conservation illustrating how
archaeology constitutes a complex jigsaw process
disclosing a picture of human history. This
exhibition also currently holds Berlin’s own ‘Mona
Lisa’, namely the remarkable ‘Bust of Nefretiti’,
which has incited fervent cultural-diplomatic rows
between Germany and Egypt.
Alte Nationalgalerie
Bodestraβe .1-4
S-Bahn: S1, S2, S5, S7, S9, S75 Hackescher Markt
Admission: 8€/4€ concessions
Based on a sketch by Emperor Wilhelm II, the Alte
Nationalgalerie with its ionic columns and
monumental exterior staircase represents an
architectural interpretation of an ancient temple.
In front of the ostentatious building, an
equestrian statue modestly commemorates the
museum’s royal patron Friedrich Wilhelm IV.
Originally, the museum hosted a collection of
modern art (all art has been contemporary,
remember!) until it was split up after WWII.
Nowadays, the Alte Nationalgalerie exhibits a
considerable collection of 19th century paintings
and sculptures.
Alte Nationalgalerie
The exhibition comprises a vast collection of
realist paintings by Adolph Menzel, as well as
some impressive works by dedicated
romanticists John Constable and Gustave
Coubert. Walk up the pompous marble staircase
and indulge in some first class French
impressionism featuring such prominent names
as Renoir, Degas, Monet or Cézanne. The
forefathers of modern art manifest a striking and
colourful contrast to the gloomy, slightly
outdated, ‘German Romans’ paintings. However,
the stars of the show can be found on the top
floor which presents two rooms dedicated to the
romanticists Casper David Friedrich and Friedrich
Schinkel, exploring the mysterious relationship
between man, nature and god. The Alte
Nationalgalerie is saturated with astonishing
pieces of art and will certainly fulfill your
expectations if you are ready for some exciting
and captivating 19th century paintings. The
museum offers an eloquent introduction and
striking transition to the modernist paintings
displayed in the Neue Nationalgalerie.
Pergamonmuseum
Am Kupfergraben .5
S-/U-Bahn: U6, S5, S7, S9 Freidrichstraβe
Admission: 10€/5€ concessions
The most famous museum in Berlin, as indicated
by the wave of trigger-happy tourist streaming
towards its entrance, the Pergamonmuseum
certainly represents the cultural-historical
highlight for many visitors. Currently veiled in
white plastic sheets, as it is undergoing some
considerable restoration work, the museum’s
original appearance was structured on a
Babylonian temple. The museum is divided into
three separate exhibitions: the first being the
collection of Classical Antiquities housing the
eye-popping Pergamon Altar with the lavishly
decorated Telephos Frieze, at top of the Altar’s
colossal staircase, as well as the, slightly
dilapidated but still impressive, Market Gate of
Miletus. To the right, the Museum of Ancient
Near East holds the blue-glazed and richly
ornamented Ishtar Gate of Babylon from the
time of Nebuchadnezzar which leads down the
hall of the reconstructed Processional Way, a
long heavily-decorated corridor. Finally, up the
stairs you get to the Museum of Islamic Art which
19
comprehensively portrays the historic
development of Islamic art. Highlights include the
Aleppo Room, a colourfully painted wooden wall
paneling from 17th century Syria, and the
Mshatta Gate, a long, ornamented façade of an
Islamic Palace testifying the artistic creativity of
Islamic cultures. The museum documents the
rapid development of Islamic civilisation, arts and
culture manifesting its widespread influence in
both the Eastern and Western world.
Gate of Miletus
Bode-Museum
Monbijoubrücke
S-/U-Bahn: U6, S5, S7, S9 Friedrichstraβe
Admission: 8€/4€ concessions
The Bode-Museum, named after its interior
designer Wilhelm von Bode, seems to be the odd
one out on Museumsinsel. Following the buildings
acute destruction during WWII, the building was
set for demolition, but given that Berliners love
their cultural heritage they took to the streets and
safe this beautiful baroque building. The museum
reopened in 2006 and from looking at the list of
collections residing within its walls, you could be
led to the conclusion that this is the place where
they stuck everything they couldn’t fit into the
other museums. This shouldn’t put you off
visiting, though, since the exhibits, especially
all-encompassing European sculpture collection,
the medieval wood carvings and a reconstructed
half-dome of a Byzantine church from Ravenna,
are of astounding quality. Furthermore, the
17th-century building appears as of it arises out of
the Spree and is magnificently decorated as befits
a member of the Museumsinsel family of
museums.
Kulturforum
www.smb.spk-berlin.de
U-Bahn: U2, S1, S25 Potsdamer Platz
A ticket to one of the museums at the
Kulturforum, except the Musikinstrumenten-
museum, serves as a ‘Beriechskarte’ (8€/4€
concessions) and grants you access to the other
Kupferstichkabinett
museums.
Compared to the long and tumultuous history of
the Museumsinsel, the Kulturforum’s historical
past might appear less spectacular, however in
terms of art and culture it offers a modern
equivalent to the classical and slightly pompous
buildings of the Museumsinsel. Situated in the
area around the Tiergarten, just down the road
from the post-modern palaces of the Potsdamer
Platz, the Kulturforum stemmed from the idea of
constructing a new cultural centre in West Berlin,
combining a sprawling mixture of different
museums and cultural spaces. The majority of
buildings was realised in the period between
1961 and 1987, many of which were designed by
Hans Sahroun, and nowadays the area
constitutes an invaluable cultural and artistic
centre in Berlin.
Surrounding the central building of the
Kulturforum you can find the renowned
Philhamonie, home of the world-famous Berliner
Philharmonie orchestra, the Staatsbibliothek and
the Neue Nationalgalerie. The futuristic building
of the Kulturforum houses various cultural
institutions such as the Kunstgewerbemuseum,
20
the Kupferstichkabinett, the Kulturbibliothek and
the Gemäldegalerie. The Kupfestichkabinett
displays a rich collection of prints, engraved
plates, drawings and watercolours in various
temporary exhibitions, while the Kunstgewerbe-
museum holds an astounding collection of craft
and decorative art with, spanning over the
centuries from the Middle Ages to the modern
day.
The Gemäldegalerie, displaying an impressive
collection of paintings by the Old Masters, offers
an insightful, albeit sometimes overwhelming,
chronological overview of European schools of
painting. Despite its collection being divided
during the post-war period, Berlin’s reunification
has finally reunited and restored this astonishing
and unique collection. An absolute must for every
ravenous and aspiring high-brow culture vulture.
Just a stone’s throw away from the Gemälde-
galerie is the Neue Nationalgalerie which contains
a collection of international modern art. The Neue
Nationalgalerie has a somewhat troubled history,
illustrating the impact the Nazis had on culture
and arts, as in 1933 the Nazis confiscated a
majority of the works, including such renowned
artists as Monet, Manet or Renoir. The building in
which collection is exhibited today was designed
by Mies van der Rohe and contains a who’s-who
of 20th century modernist painting. An art
exhibition that is not to be missed under any
circumstances!
Kunstgewerbemuseum
Gemäldegalerie
Matthäikirche .8
U-Bahn: U2, S1, S25 Potsdamer Platz
Opening times: Tues-Sun: 10.00-18.00, Thurs
10.00-22.00.
Gemäldegalerie on Kulturforum
Undoubtedly the most impressive and significant
destination in Berlin’s art historical landscape,
the Gemäldegalerie, located within the
Kulturforum complex, possesses one of the most
important collections of European art, spanning
from medieval panel painting in the 13th to the
neo-classicist works of the 19th century. The
museum’s spatial design and the atmospheric
exhibition rooms provide a suitable surrounding
for the diverse paintings covering a good 600
years of multifaceted European art history. The
walls are covered in special light-absorbing fabric
and rather than using artificial light, the glass
ceilings allow for natural light to penetrate and
illuminate the paintings. The enormous main
hall, from which the different rooms spread out
like a daddy-long legs, is adorned by a futuristic
water sculpture and permeated by a calm and
serene atmosphere, the ideal place to have a
little break from constantly staring reverentially
at old authoritative paintings.
The main exhibition moves chronologically
through the centuries and can be divided roughly
into four main categories: German (13th-16th
century); Netherlands (17th century); Dutch and
Flemish (18th century); Italian, Spanish, French
(13th-18th century). The permanent collection
displays around 1500 paintings so be prepared to
be bombarded by an abundance of different
artworks. A good way of getting comprehensively
through the impressive collection is to get one of
21
the free audio guides when buying your ticket.
This will keep you from strolling aimlessly around
wondering what all the fuss might be about when
looking at elderly, solemn-looking men with thick
beards and funny hats. One of the main selling
points of the Gemäldegalerie is that the specific
paintings were chosen by erudite specialists who
over the years have acquired the paintings
systematically to represent all major European
Schools of painting. If you think that your
knowledge of the Bible has recently suffered from
considerable negligence, many of the displayed
paintings with their religious subjects will
certainly help you refresh your memory.
The towering rooms and the, sometimes, colossal
paintings and altarpieces emanate an occasionally
pious and austere atmosphere which seems to
urge you to obsequiously admire the exhibited
paintings by the so-called Old Masters. However,
the impeccable condition of the paintings and the
comprehensive organisation of the exhibition
make it a true delight to embark on a fascinating,
if challenging, journey through the historical maze
of European art. Among the collections main
attractions feature such celebrated artists such as
Dürer, Bosch, van Eyck, Caravaggio or Velazquez.
Make sure not to skip room seven displaying some
important works by Pieter Brueghel (among which
the marvellous ‘Dutch Proverbs’, spend some time
trying to spot them all), room VIII with paintings
by Peter Paul Rubens or room 16 showing works
by Rembrandt some of which were however
merely painted by his studio (be sure to get a
glimpse of ‘Der Menoitenprediger’ to get a sense
of Rembrandt’s idiosyncratic painting style). One
section of the museum is also reserved for
temporary exhibitons, focusing on different
artistic trends or personas from the rich history of
European painting.
Giotto di Bondone
Neue Nationalgalerie the artists’ reciprocal influences, their recurrent
Potsdamer Straβe .50
themes and the inherent differences in their
U-Bahn: U2 Mendelssohn-Bartholdy Park
unique approaches to painting and the world.
Opening times: Tues-Fri: 10.00-18.00,
The walls are illuminated by subtle atmospheric
Thurs: 10.00-22.00, weekends: 11.00-18.00
lighting, presenting the paintings in a bright and
natural light. Yet, the permanent exhibition
sometimes makes way for diverse temporary
expositions which, however, fit within the artistic
and historical context of the museum, exploring
and elucidating the artistic influence of
expressionism. At the time of writing an exhibition
called Die Macht der Expressiven (The Power of
the Expressive) was staged in the basement halls.
This unique exhibition displayed about 60
artworks (mainly paintings) donated by the
Munich art dealer Leo van der Loo to the Neue
Neue Nationalgalerie Nationalgalerie. The exhibition presents the work
of particular expressionist desperados, Henri
The Neue Nationalgalerie with its magnificent
Michaux, Jean Dubuffet or Antonio Saura, while
collection of 20th century modernist paintings
also highlighting the work of the Cobra group
was the first building erected as part of the
(founded in 1948) and their influence on the
Kulturforum and designed by Bauhaus legend
Munich collective Spur (1958). Not completely
Mies van der Rohe. The building is striking in its
relegated to the dusty storage, paintings from the
architectural simplicity; a flat steel roof over a
temporary exhibition are still included in this trip
glass quadrangle, supported by merely six slender
through modernist art, as works by Picasso, Nolde,
struts gives the building a floating, ethereal
Kirchner, Beckmann or Munch reveal their artistic
quality. While the ground floor is mainly used as a
and ideological influence on the work of the
gallery for temporary exhibitions by contempo-
following generation. The works from the
rary artists, its permanent exhibition can be found
temporary collection offer a suitable introduction
in the building’s basement. Walking down the
into this exhibition as they provide the artistic
stairs feels like a subterranean journey deep into
context and evoke the underlying themes of
the heart of the European modernist and
expressivity, spontaneity, mythology and abstract
expressionist painting. The exhibition rooms are
form represented in the ‘van der Loo’ collection.
structured around a big, sober reception hall in
The modernist paintings constitute the
the middle of which stands Henri Moore’s iconic
indisputable highlight of this exhibition, uniting in
bronze statue ‘Woman on Bench’ (1957).
the main hall the work of Picasso, Nolde,
The temporary exhibition illustrates the history of
Beckmann, Munch, Nay, and Kirchner and offering
modernist painting, starting with late 19th
an insightful overview of the expressionist
century artists such as Edvard Munch (the guy
creativity in 20th century art.
who painted ‘The Scream’), and then travelling
through the different European trends at the
beginning of the last century. The German
expressionists of Die Brücke movement, artists
such as Ernst Ludwig Kirchner or Emil Nolde, are
featured prominently in an exhibition which
succeeds brilliantly at conveying a comprehensive
sense of the history of expressionism. World
famous artists such as Picasso, Klee, Magritte,
Ernst or Dali also form an integral part of the
museum’s outstanding exhibition, emphasising
Max Beckmann

22
Museum für Fotographie
Jebenstraβe .2
S-/U-Bahn: U2, S5, S7, S75, S9 Zoologischer
Garten
Opening times: Tues-Sun: 10.00-18.00, Thurs:
10.00-22.00 Admission: 8€/4€ concessions
Hidden behind the formerly notorious Bahnhof
Zoo, the Museum für Fotographie is located in a
fo r m e r
military
casino.
Seriously
damaged
d u r i n g
WWII, the
n e o -
classicist
building
underwent
s o m e
restoration
w o r k ,
eventually
becoming
the home Newton Photograph
of the Kunstbibliothek. After being used mainly
as a storage and workshop over the last decades,
the building was reopened in 2004 as the
Museum für Fotographie. Still undergoing
considerable restoration, the finished building
will constitute a significant centre for research,
documentation and exhibition for the history of
photography.
The museum also contains the Helmut Newton
Foundation, displaying the life and work of the
renowned fashion photographer and donated by
Newton himself to his home city shortly before
his death. It contains a vast amount of
memorabilia from his personal life (Newton’s
vast collection of cameras offers a comprehen-
sive overview of the development of the
technology) as well as published and previously
unpublished material. The exhibition allows you
to dive deeply into Newton’s state of mind
exploring the various influences and recurrent
themes of his photography. Beware, if you have
never seen a naked woman before, you will
certainly do here. Rummaging through Newton’s
intriguing collection of private portraits
23
(featuring him and his wife Alice Springs), you
cannot help but ascertain his playful, if sometimes
juvenile, obsession with the nude human body.
Among the curiosities of Newton’s life you can
find his glasses, various clothes, bush of hair, his
tacky beach buggy and a reproduction of his office
filled with bizarre objects (his Dalì disguise, Barbie
dolls or a nude female statue doing a headstand).
When going through Newton’s notebooks, letters
and faxes, try and spot his hilarious apology to the
former German Bundeskanzler Schröder for being
late for an official dinner (Newton humbly
confesses to ‘having blown it’). The exhibition is
easily digestible while offering an interesting
insight into Newton’s artistic consciousness. The
exhibition offers a colourful journey through 30
years of fashion and strikingly emphasises
Newton’s status as one of the most talented,
provocative and groundbreaking photographer of
the 20th century.
Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum
www.kaethe-kollwitz.de
Fasanenstraβe .24
U-Bahn: U1 Uhlandstraβe
Admission: 5€/2.5€ concessions
Opening times: daily 11.00-18.00
Located in an opulent neo-baroque villa on the
idyllic Fasanenstraβe, the Käthe-Kollwitz-Museum
pays tribute to one of the most significant female
artists and critical voices of the last century. A
dedicated socialist and humanist, Kollwitz’s
lithographies and woodcuts, such as ‘Hunger’
(1920), ‘Beggars (1920) or ‘Kindersterben’ (1924),
express an eloquent and compelling account of
the human condition at the turn of the century.
Her first cycles of etchings on the ‘Weavers’
Revolt’ (1897) and the ‘Peasants’ War’ (1907)
manifest her profound sense of social criticism as
well as her sincere feelings of empathy for the
oppressed working class. The pictorial etchings’
dramatic contrast between light and shadow as
well as their bleak portrayal of human suffering
articulate Kollwitz’s gloomy interpretation of
human society. Throughout her career, Kollwitz
asserted the artist’ social responsibilities and the
fundamental need to hold a mirror up to society.
Affected by personal tragedy, Kollwitz’s
lithographs and prints became increasingly more
recurrent theme of mother and child, portraying
the motherly affection for her son but also a
mother’s distressing moment of holding her
dead son. Kollwitz’s most famous work, Pietà
(1937/38), later used as a model by Harald
Haacke in 1993 for the anti-war memorial at the
Neue Wache, epitomises this theme of mother
and child. Committed pacifist during her lifetime,
her lithographs adopted a progressively more
pacifist tone after her son’s death, best
illustrated by a furiously protesting mother in
‘Nie Wieder Krieg’ (1924). The museum offers a
comprehensive overview of her work, displaying
lithographies, sketches, wood cuts, paintings and
sculptures. It also displays Kollwitz’s self-portraits
which allow an honest look of the artist and her
aging face. The upper levels are used for
changing temporary exhibitions by contempo-
rary artists.
Jüdisches Museum
Lindenstraβe .9-14
U-Bahn: U1, U6 Hallesches Tor
Opening times: Mon 10.00-22.00; Tues-Sun
10.00-20.00
Admission: 5€/2.5€ concessions
Even before its inauguration in 2001, the
Jüdisches Museum (Jewish Museum) attracted
thousands of spectators, eager to admire the
spectacular building designed by American
star-architect Daniel Libeskind (the guy who has
designed the new World Trade Centre). The
museum’s exterior, with its metallic facing and its
angular external structure resembles a
thundering lightning bolt, possibly representing a
deconstructed Star of David. Descending the
stairs from the baroque Kollegienhaus to the
underground tunnel, you find yourself in a
labyrinth of three intersecting axis: the Axis of
Exile documenting the intricacies of the Jewish
Diaspora in the 1930s; the Axis of the Holocaust,
exhibiting personal documents of Holocaust
victims , takes you to the commemorative Tower
of the Holocaust; and the Axis of Continuity,
culminating in the enormous permanent
exhibition on the second floor. However, rather
than forcing an interpretation on you, Libeskind
encourages you to come up with your personal
interpretation of the building’s maze-like
structure, engaging with the museum’s
24
architectural space and its thematic context. On
the way up the long flight of stairs to the
permanent exhibition, stop halfway up and check
out the ‘memory void’ which contains the
abstract monument ‘Fallen Leaves’ (Shalekhet)
dedicated to the victims of war and violence. The
towering hall is filled with 10,000 grimacing iron
faces scattered over the ground. At the end of the
staircase, the permanent exhibition takes the
visitors on a complex, challenging and enlighten-
ing journey through 2000 years of Jews in
Germany. The exhibition spans from the
beginnings in the Middle Ages until today,
illustrating the flourishing history of Jews in
Germany, their
struggle for
integration as well as
their remarkable
achievements.
Relying on objects of
quotidian
a r t w o r k ,
life,
photographs,
documents, letters,
and rituals and
drawing on a very
interactive and
m u l ti m e d i a
approach. Focusing
on ordinary Jewish
people and
prominent historical
Fallen Leaves
figures the exhibition
demonstrates how far Western society, culture
and sciences are shaped by and intertwined with
Jewish culture. The museum’s comprehensive
exhibition illustrates the rich Jewish culture the
Nazis set out to annihilate completely, but instead
of portraying them as silent and anonymous
victims, they are shown in all their colourful and
exuberant liveliness. Strewn across the whole
exhibition, the ‘voids’ contrast this abundant
portrayal of Jewish people by reminding us of the
visitors of the harrowing gap left by the ravages of
the Holocaust (manifesting the presence of
absence). Exhibition, commemorative hall,
research centre, forum of discussion, interactive
playground and cultural space for human
interaction, the Jüdisches Museum increasingly
stretches the boundaries of what a contemporary
museum should represent and stimulates a
dialogue between the museum and its visitors.
The Arts
Berlin offers an art scene enriched with diversions
from local rising musicians to photographers,
painters and graffiti artists. You cannot stay here
without involving yourself in the music scene, the
street culture and the alternative and unique
bohemian vibes.
Walking through the streets you cannot fail to
notice the proliferation of art forms and graffiti.
This has become part of Berlin’s character;
ranging from political, comical and artistic
creations to the downright random. You only
need to look upwards to be amazed by the
determination of some people to express
themselves several storeys up, in places that
could only possibly be accessed with lengthy
ladders or a complicated method of hoisting and
scaling. It is worth it though, as the results give
the city charm and individuality through allowing
freedom of expression.
Given Berlin’s free spirit, contemporary
expression has flourished. The city boasts more
than 5000 artists in residence, who are regularly
opening their studios or exhibiting their work in
many of the galleries that the city has to offer.
Wherever or however you want to experience
this important aspect of Berlin’s charm and
Street art down Auguststraße contrasts with the chic
galleries
25
Just wandering the city reveals some amazing creations
character, there is something here for everyone.
Walking between any of Berlin’s main attractions
reveals expressionist graffiti on many walls of the
city. Take to the back streets rather than following
the typical tourist trails to see some of the more
interesting pieces of work. There is often much to
see around train stations and on shop shutters at
night-time. Also, more artistic and bohemian areas
of the city, such as Prenzlauer Berg and Kreuzberg,
offer a vast range of interesting creations.
There is also the more conventional means of
exploring the city’s artistic works, through visiting
some of the multitudinous galleries that are
located throughout the city. From photography to
abstract art, from contemporary to eclectic, the
galleries provide an interesting scope for all tastes.
In this section, some of the more off-the-wall and
unique ways to discover the true artistic spirit of
Berlin are highlighted. This covers not only
interesting galleries, but also ways to see a
different cultural side of the city
To find a list of temporary exhibitions and what’s
on where and when, refer to the city’s monthly
magazine, artery berlin, which is also available in
English. This guide can be acquired in most
galleries, but also has an online version at
www.artery-berlin.de. Usually further information
can be found in the galleries that you visit.
Auguststraße
If you are in the mood for checking out some of
the more contemporary art that the city has to
offer, make your way to Auguststraße. The street
is a hive of galleries, from visual to photographic
arts. Start at one end and work your way down,
with your eyes watching both sides of the street,
for this stretch of the city offers a dense supply
of individual and exciting galleries.
Auguststraße was the centre of the Berlin arts
scene in the 1990s, renovated after the fall of
the Wall in 1989 from a poor inner city district to
the quaint and buzzing sight you can see today.
The galleries attract artists from all over the
world and feature some of the most bohemian, Galerie Gerken
controversial and eclectic pieces that you are
likely to see in Berlin. Berlin Art Projects
Deschler www.berlinartprojects.de Augustraße 50b, U6
www.deschler-berlin.de Auguststraße 61, Oranienburger Tor, Monday – Friday 11.00 –
U6 Oranienburger Tor, Tuesday – Saturday 19.00, Saturday 12.00 – 18.00
12.00 – 18.00 The space here, unlike other galleries on this
This gallery, on two floors, features works from artist’s stretch, encourages relaxation and
several artists at one time. Its exhibits are of an contemplation of the work. Sofas, tables and chairs
eclectic style, often portraying the more are placed in the centre, and from that vantage
adventurous types of art. Exhibits tend to veer point you can contemplate the pieces from a
away from canvas works, and there are often life comfortable distance.
size models, statues and decorative items to be
seen. Deschler often houses visual artwork, a
Eigen + ART
www.eigen-art.com
rising trend in artistic circles. Auguststraße 26, U6 Oranienburger Tor
Galerie Gerken Tuesday – Saturday 11.00 – 18.00
www.galerie-gerken.de Augustraße 49, U6 This is one of the most important of the
Oraninenburger Tor, Tuesday – Friday 11.00 – Auguststraße galleries, as it is run by Gerd Harry
18.00, Saturday 13.00 – 18.00 Lybke, the first person to open a private gallery in
In a large, open and airy space you can see a vast the GDR. The staff are very friendly in this small
range of works from individual artists. The art gallery and information is supplied in English.
displayed here is generally very off the wall, and Artists exhibited tend to be from the east of
a long while can be spent wondering at the Germany, although it is now veering more to other
symbolism, the content or even just at the time young international artists. The exhibits mix simple
spent to create the art itself. techniques with the new, ranging from photogra-
phy to installations.

“Swept Away” Painting by Jay Mark Johnson on display in the Galerie Deschler

26
KW Institute for Contemporary Art
www.kw-berlin.de
Auguststraße 69, U6 Oranienburger Tor
Tues - Sun 12.00 - 19.00, Thurs 12.00 - 21.00.
Concessions 4€
Interview with Denhart von Harling,
KW Institute for Contemporary Art
What makes the Kunst Werke stand out from the
crowd, in a city where galleries are numerous
and the choice is slightly daunting?
The KW Institute for Contemporary Art always
displays young, “cutting edge” artwork. In terms
of contemporary artwork, it is certainly the most
interesting institution that Berlin has to offer. We
exhibit new pieces, which are not yet quite
established and certain in the art world. There
are often additional events such as talks,
screenings or concerts. Many artists come
regularly to the exhibitions and events. For these
reasons a visit is always worth it.
Does the history of Berlin play an important role
in the history of the KW?
The KW is a living example of Berlin’s history after
the fall of the wall. It was founded in 1991 in the
buildings of a former margarine factory. At that
time many buildings which had stood empty were
renovated to make space for creative projects.Its
opening was an important factor in the
development of Auguststraße as an artistic hub,
and the Mitte area as the artistic quarter that it is
today.
Chill out in the sophisticated Café Bravo
KW Institute for Contemporary Art, Uwe Walter 2009.
27
Enjoy the relaxing courtyard of the Kunst Werke Gallery
KW Institute for Contemporary Art, Uwe Walter 2009.
Has the KW helped develop the art scene in
Berlin, or is it merely a representation of the
artists of the city?
The KW is a very formative institution. In 1996
Klaus Biesenbach, the founding director of the KW,
was asked, along with others, to put together a
biennial celebration of contemporary Berlin
artwork. This festival has become one of the most
important biennial festivals of contemporary
artwork. This project is a child of the post Wende
years and is therefore significant in the cultural
community and calendar in Berlin.
What sort of people can be found in the KW?
There is a very popular café in the courtyard, Café
Bravo, which attracts people from all walks of life,
who just want to chill out in the hustle and bustle
of the city centre. Actors and artists, tourists and
students, businessmen and women all mingle
together during the daytime. It has become a
place to see, and also to be seen.
Which other galleries would you recommend a
visit to, when in the area?
There are many interesting galleries dotted up
Auguststraße, and ones to be checked out are
certainly Eigen + ART, Galerie Neu, Neugerriemen-
schneider, Esther Schipper and Sprüth Magers.
Also check out Clärchens Ballhaus in Auguststrße.
There are often dance evenings held there.
Other galleries worth a look
Jannowitzbrücke
www.holtzmarktstrasse.com
Tues- Sat 11.00 - 18.00, although check website
for individual opening times
To move away from the smart and up-market art
genre, head to the less touristy galleries tucked
away beneath the arches of the S-Bahn at
Jannowitzbrücke. In a perfect location running
along side the river, these bright and airy galleries
exhibit works from Berlin’s most dynamic and
avant-garde artists. Tucked behind a petrol station
a short walk from the S-Bahn, the area does not
attract most tourists, and yet provides an
interesting insight into the way that art is evolving
in the city.
The exhibitions are constantly changing, but along
the stretch of four galleries under the station, and
the two more a short walk away at Schillingstraße,
and then two more again on Strausberger Platz,
there is always something of interest going on
that is certainly worth checking out.
Hamburger Bahnhof
The old roof of the former Hamburger Bahnhof
www.hamburgerbahnhof.de Museum für
Gegenwart, Museum for Contemporary Art, 50 –
51 Invalidenstraße. S5/9/75 Hauptbahnhof.
Tues- Fri 10.00 – 18.00, Sat & Sun11.00 – 18.00.
Free Thurs 14.00 – 18.00 and first Sunday of each
month.
The Hamburger Bahnhof, a former train station
which ceased to function as such from as early as
1906, is the home of contemporary works of art
from a wide variety of artists. Offering both
permanent and temporary exhibitions, this
28
The inside of Tacheles is just as eclectic as the outside
museum is worth a visit on a Thursday afternoon
when entrance is free, if not for the artwork, then
just for the impressive structure of the former
station. It provides an impressive backdrop for
works of art ranging from Warhol to Beuys,
Lichtenstein to Keith Haring and Donald Judd. The
permanent collection is mainly work of an
abstract nature, so do prepare yourself for works
of a bizarre and perplexing nature.
Tacheles
www.tacheles.de Oranienburgerstrasse 53-56,
U6 Oranienburger Tor
Doomed to destruction in 1990, the former
shopping centre, exhibition hall and offices to the
SS and the Nazi labour organisation, Tacheles was
saved by a group of young international artists in
early 1990. The group settled and it became a
squat house, in which a band of painters,
sculptors and other randomers nutured their
artistic talents. Since then art has flourished in the
building, which now houses several exhibitions, a
cinema room, an outside gallery and several bars.
Prepare yourself to be amazed by the eclectic mix
of graffiti, and also the rather unconventional
conditions of living that these young people are
embracing. The dilapidated building, its walls
suffused with gritty murals and tattooed with
funky graffiti, must be ascertained as an urban
artwork in itself, housing about 50 contemporary
artists. The building serves as a creative source of
constant inspiration to many of the artists. Their
multicultural backgrounds as well as their diverse
styles of expression turns Tacheles into an artistic
environment bursting with creative energy.
The Holocaust Memorial
www.stiftung-denkmal.de
Monument open 24/7. Museum Tues-Sun 10.00
- 20.00, last admission 19.15. Free.
U2 Potsdamer Platz or Mohrenstraße, S1/25
Potsdamer Platz or Unter den Linden.
In a city where memories of the past seem to be
ever present, controversy raged when it was
announced that another set of reminders were to
be constructed in the form of Holocaust
memorials in the centre of the city. The largest,
officially entitled The National Memorial to the
Murdered Jews, stands centrally in the area
between the Reichstag, Potsdamer Platz and the
Tiergarten. Its location on a prime piece of real
estate, the enormously high construction and
planning costs and the fact that Germany as a
whole already seems to have enough reminders
of its troubled past, are the least of the objections
raised in protest to this dedication. The biggest
controversy was based around the company
chosen to provide the anti-graffiti paint, namely
Degussa, daughter company of IG Farben,
producer of Cyclon B gas used in the Nazi gas
chambers.
The other memorials, to the homosexuals and the
gypsies who also fell victim to Hitler’s regime, are
under construction.
2711 black pillars of varying height cover a space
equivalent to three football pitches. They are
arranged in rows, and become taller towards the
centre whilst the land drops lower. At night they
make an impressive yet sombre sight, illuminated
with 180 lights.
Approach the monument alone and with an open
mind to gain the full impact of the art. New York
architect Peter Eisenman described his creation,
inspired by Prague’s Jewish graveyard, as a “place
of hope”, although this description can fail to
capture the essence of the place for some. The
straight rows are designed so that there is always
a visible means of escape, a privilege that Jews
would not have been granted. As you tread
through the ominous pillars, and sink lower and
lower, sound seems to become muffled and
eventually disappear. Some feel that they are
walking with tunnel vision, with nowhere to look
but where they are headed, which for the Jews
29
was an uncertain destiny. Just as you reach the
centre and you think that it is becoming too
much, and that history is hitting you too hard in
the face, you start to rise out of the gloom again
and find sunlight, laughter and the bustle of the
city once more. You look back over the looming
grey expanse, at the children running gleefully
through this exciting maze, at the sun lovers
basking like lizards on top of the blocks, which at
lower levels are creepily reminiscent of graves,
and think to yourself how lucky you are to be able
to escape what had awaited so many Jews. Yet
does it lose its significance being treated in this
way? Does its presence in the centre of the city
act as a constant reminder to a shameful past? Or
is it merely a way for the government to yet again
express their shame and their remorse for the
actions of their predecessors?
The beauty of this monument is that it is art, and
it is for you to reach your own conclusions.
The monument stands above a museum
dedicated to the Jews. It is certainly worth a look,
as it provides a shocking representation of the
intricacies of a culture that was threatened to be
exterminated. It looks at the history of the
persecution of the Jews, at individual families and
traditions. Possibly most hard-hitting of all is the
presentation of letters to loved ones from those
taken away to the concentration camps, possibly
never to see their friends and family again.
The East Side Gallery
The East Side Gallery is the home of a 1316m long Interview with Hervé Morlay, East Side
section of the Berlin Wall that runs along
Mühlenstraße, opposite the Ostbahnhof. In 1989,
Gallery artist, France
the year of the fall of the Berlin Wall, 117 artists
How did you get involved in the East Side Gallery?
from 21 different countries joined forces to
I fell in to it by chance. When there were talks
transform the East Side, painting the eastern face
about making artwork out of a stretch of the Wall,
of the Wall, which for almost three decades had
I wanted to be part of this historical project. Any
been untouchable. Their paintings document a
artist who wanted to partake could put
time of change and desire for a different and
themselves forward with an idea, and so I did.
better future.
Just two days after it was opened on November
Did you have any restrictions or guidelines to
28 1989, the German Democratic Republic
follow for the design of your section of the wall?
ceased to exist.
No, not at all. We were offered to have complete
2009 sees the restoration of this documentation
artistic freedom.
of the fall of communism. Pollution, weathering,
vandalism and even theft have led to general
How did you choose what you wanted to have on
disrepair, including fading paintings and mindless
your section?
graffiti. Much controversy was raised at the
There were several factors involved. Part of what
beginning of 2009 when, potentially the most
inspired me was the artistic styles of the era,
famous image, that of Honecker and Brezhnev
although a great deal of it came from inside me,
kissing passionately, accompanied with the words
from my personality. However, a project like this
“God, help me survive this deadly love,” was
clearly also had to be influenced by the reality of
removed for restoration without the artist’s
the situation, which obviously given its history is
permission.
incredibly symbolic, and also of the reality of the
The artwork is being removed in stages, and the
country and its climate. The wall is incredibly
first few have already been repainted. The
famous and offered a very prestigious
original artists from 1989 have been contacted
environment in which to express myself. This
and asked to repaint their section, although some
project had to be dealt with delicately.
are thinking of changing their design.
This project should be completed by November 9
Can we read symbolism in your piece?
2009, the day marking the 20th anniversary of
In the painting, there is whatever people can find
the fall of the Berlin Wall.
or read or feel inside, personally.

Herve Morlay’s section of the East Side Gallery encourages you to think for yourself

30
Interview with Thomas
Klingenstein, artist and poet
How did you decide
what to paint on your
section of the East
Side Gallery?
I grew up in East
Berlin, in the shadow
of the Wall. As a child I
Thomas section of the East Side Gallery
had always wanted to
go to Japan but living However there are indeed differences in the
in the GDR meant that mentality of people from the East and from the
I could not. The GDR West. This is not so important for the younger
system was very generation, who have grown up without the
restrictive. When the presence of the Wall, but for the older people, who
wall came down and they were searching for experienced this situation first hand, it is not
artists to paint the East Side Gallery, I knew something that you can just repress. The East Side
immediately what I wanted to paint. The fall of Gallery plays a role to re-emphasise that not only
the Wall meant that Japan would have been was a land cut into two, but also the people. The
possible for me, so I painted the opening to a East Side Gallery represents a piece of history that
Japanese section of the city. is intrinsic to the current day. It was crazy,
troublesome, for the people of Berlin to have this
Is there any other message in your section? wall dividing them. When the borders were
My painting also aims to show how ridiculous, reopened, the people of Berlin wanted nothing
how crazy, this separation was. To divide a whole more than for this ugly reminder to be gone.
country, a whole people, is madness. Just imagine
how it would be if suddenly your own country or How was growing up in the GDR for you?
city was divided, and you could not have I was very young when I started to come into
freedom of speech or movement. The conflict with the oppressive regime in the GDR. I
consequences of this separation are enormous, started to write poetry, and I wanted to publish my
and that is something that is often overlooked. work. I was unable to do it in the East, so I worked
hard to get them over to the West. I was the
What sort of consequences for you are the most youngest person to ever publish Eastern literature
noticeable? in the West. The Stasi knew of what I had done and
This “wall in the head” concept is not as strong in I was taken to Hohenschönhausen, the Stasi
Germany as it is portrayed in other countries. prison. I was there for four months. When you
don’t know when you will be free again, that is an
eternity. It was an awful time. Very intense. There
culture_07_aps2 was outcry in the West when my imprisonment
became known, and the BRD paid the sum
demanded for my freedom. I was released to the
West in February 1981.

Did you ever make it to Japan?

I did eventually get to go to Japan. In total I spent
about three years there, but in a period stretching
over eight or nine years. I learned Japanese. I
Thomas Klingenstein, “Jale” To see his current works, see
fulfilled my youthful dream.
www.thomas-klingenstein.com

31
Alternative Berlin
Bear Pit Karaoke
U2 Eberswalderstraße. Head to Mauerpark flea
market and wander over the grass towards the
amphitheatre.
Generally 14.00 – 18.30

In theory, an afternoon of karaoke could sound to

some like an awful idea. Yet in practice, Berlin
seems to get away with it; a perfect Sunday can
be spent chilling in the sun with a beer and
watching random strangers from all walks of life
strutting their stuff on a stage.
A large outdoor arena in Prenzlauer Berg hosts a
computer, a set of speakers, a microphone and a
large audience. Joe Hatchiban, a wandering Irish
man with a bike, presents the show and provides
the tunes.
There is nothing official about this karaoke
session. It takes place every Sunday afternoon
from spring to autumn, weather providing. The
idea is simple, yet genius. You approach the
maestro with a song, he provides it, and you sing.
He even has a camera man so that you can relive
your moment of glory through YouTube. And the
best bit is that it is completely free, although
during the acts a tin is passed around. Crowds are
attracted to the large amphitheatre when they
hear cheering, clapping and singing. Driven by
inquisitiveness they take a seat and soon find
themselves wrapped up in the performance,
watching people take to the stage and sing their
hearts out - soon egging them on, to the point
where all they want to do is get involved.
Even if you hate the sound of this idea, it is
definitely worth heading down to see. Crowds
Come join the crowds in the bear pit
The streets are littered with graffiti wherever the eye falls
exceed 200 people and the atmosphere is electric.
Children play together beside the stage, people sit
sipping beers in the sunshine, providing a real mix
of cultures, ages, talents and musical tastes.
Abilities vary from the very talented to the drunk,
the desperate and the downright dismal. The
beauty of it is though is that nobody cares, and the
vibe of community spirit buzzes throughout.
Street Art
Prior to 1989, Berlin’s major form of street art was
the graffiti on the western side of the divide. Post
reunification, East-siders decided to get in on the
fun and since then, Berlin street art has flourished.
The work varies between huge abstract murals that
appear overnight, gang tags, redecorated chewing
gum vending machines, and stickers plastered over
street signs.
Street art in Berlin thrives due to the city’s unique
history. The separation and reunification gave
Berliners something to rebel against – it was a
reaction to two forces: freedom from the
oppression of Soviet dictatorship and the influx of
capitalism.
Street art has a history of being politically
motivated and the twin forces of capitalisation and
globalisation provide plenty of material to rebel
against. Lots of prominent street artists have
claimed that their work is just a response to the
advertisements of large corporations which are
plastered all over cities – street art is a way of
giving a voice to individuals and alternative ideas. It
was a mode of expression that was entirely
accessible, and the drab Soviet buildings provided
the perfect platform for it.
Prior to reunification, East German artists were
free of competition and influences from the West.
After 1989, artists from the East found they could

32

Some really impressive works can be seen on the streets
not compete with the art forms flooding from
British, American,French and other artists, and
street art developed as a new means of
expression.
After the restrictions of Soviet rule, post-1989
Berlin had a great emphasis on freedom. The
squat-houses, underground clubs and bars, and
street art emerged and flourished in rebellion to
the repression of three decades of division.
The masses of graffiti that exist over the city show
that personal freedom and expression is
important to Berliners, and that environment has
encouraged the artistically inclined to flood to
this essentially bankrupt city - which is another
reason Berlin has become a haven for street
artists. Despite the illegality and the displeasure
of many Berliners, city authorities have more
important things to spend their money on than
painting over works which cover whole sides of
buildings- like paying off their debt of over 60
billion euros. Nevertheless, the authorities have
traditionally had a high tolerance for street art
and fines are fairly small and do little to
discourage artists.
Alternative Tours
www.alternativeberlin.com
Meeting point: 11 pm Strabucks Coffee
Alexander Platz TV Tower
Fed up with squeezing yourself through the
bustling tourist crowds blocking traffic to get a
snapshot of the fake Checkpoint Charlie, tired of
fighting your way through the masses flooding
Berlin’s various museums, irritated by the
hoardes sweeping up and down the money paved
Kurfürstendamm? Join Ady and his team on the
alternative tour around Berlin. With his
33
encyclopaedic knowledge of Berlin’s urban
subcultures and hidden alternative gems, Ady takes
you on an approximately five hour freestyle tour
through Berlin’s alternative districts. Alternative
Tours takes you deep inside the clandestine
territory of ‘real’ Berliners.
With a clear emphasis on street art, graffiti and
urban culture, the tour offers a penetrating insight
into modern day Berlin off the tourist trail. Major
stops for alternative snapshot time include a visit to
Mauerpark, where remains of the Berlin Wall are
used as an everyday canvas for aspiring graffiti
artists; Prenzlauer Berg with its buzzing bohemian
trendy shops and cafés; the world-famous Tacheles,
(see page 28) a former squat house turned into
contemporary culture venue and an artwork in
itself; an anarchistic squat house (named after the
RAF terrorist Tommy Weisbecker); the ‘50 Faces
Gallery’ in Kreuzberg, a project aimed at the cultural
regeneration of the formerly notorious district and
the alternative culture venue ‘Cassiopeia’.
Perambulating across Berlin’s alternative cityscape
you can explore peculiar little shops, rummage
through GDR memorabilia shops, admire a
man-made waterfall in the heart of Berlin, explore
city markets and develop your individual image of
Berlin’s colourful and multicultural neighbour-
hoods. An undeniable culinary highlight of the tour
is the lunchtime stop at Berlin’s most reputable
Kebab shop (Mustafa’s) or its most beloved
Currywurst counter (Curry 36).
In order to get effortlessly around the city, the tour
relies on public transport so make sure you buy
yourself an AB Metro Day Ticket. Although the tour
is advertised as free, they work on a tips basis,
which means you can give as much at the end as
you think the tour was worth. Be generous, as these
people have to make a living too.
See the artists at work on the alternative tour
Food and drink Brunch
Like the Americans and Brits, Berliners love their
Though Berlin’s gastronomic faire pales in brunch, but you won’t find Eggs Benedict on the
comparison to that of some other European menu. If you‘re on a budget, check out the cheap
capitals like Paris and Rome, it would be wrong all-you-can-eat buffets for a choice of yummy
to assume that the seemingly limited Germanic hangover cures.
diet isn’t in its own way full of flavour and
variety. Not dissimilar to their Nordic Que Pasa
neighbours, Germans enjoy nothing more than Skalitzerstraße. 122, U1 Görlitzer Bahnof
a big slab of meat on the table. It’s not
uncommon to find curried hot dog (Currywurst) At Que Pasa in Kreuzberg, a bargainers’
sellers on street corners; fast food outlets open all-you-can-eat Spanish-German fusion is served
well into the early morning in every district, and up for a mere €5.90. Dishes include standard trays
a constant selection of processed meats in the of cheese, meat and fruit, set beside huge trays of
fridge. curry, tortilla ingredients and salads. There's
Meat is often accompanied by boiled potatoes something here for everyone and the best thing
in a stew or on their own in classic meat-and- about it is that it just keeps coming, and coming,
two-veg style. Foreign cuisine isn’t hugely and coming…
popular here but you will find an array of
Turkish outlets selling falafel and kebabs
through the city. The huge advantage of dining
in Berlin is the constant stream of activity
through cafes to bars, whatever the time of day
or night. Cafes often stay open well after dusk
and bars will keep you going through to dawn.
Beer is delightfully cheap and good and, for
afterwards, the availability of fresh coffee in the
early morning serves as a fantastic pick-you-up.
Plus, of course, Jägermeister was invented here,
and you can be sure that where there’s a bottle
of Jäger, there’s a night of fun.
The international buffet at Que Pasa

Zitrone
Graefestrasse. 20, U8 Schönleinstraße

For a more expensive but far more German brunch,

jump over the river to Zitrone on an early Sunday
afternoon. For €9 you can enjoy an unlimited
quantity of fresh soups, cold meats, continental
cheeses and breads, vine leaves, falafel, aubergine
and vegetable mixes, rice salads and a variety of
desserts. The food is great quality, hearty and not
caked in oil (unlike Que Pasa). You can also sit
outside to eat and enjoy the view of the park
opposite. So if the price tag doesn't put you off,
head to Zitrone. Of course you're still grabbing a
bargain for the unlimited food you're able to eat.
CHEERS!

34
Fairtrade
Eating fairtrade is a popular dining experience in
Berlin. Patrons are asked to pay whatever they
feel is a deserved amount, with no set minimum
charge. The owners might ban you if you leave
just a couple of euros on the table, however,
you’re guaranteed to spend less for what you
get than you would in standard restaurants.
Fra Rosa
Zionkirchstraße. 40, U8 Rosenthaler Platz.
From the outside Fra Rosa, a tiny restaurant
tucked away on a side street, with its kitsch
floral design and pink paint surprisingly doesn't
stand out from the crowd. Its simplistic décor
may not attract the eye of the average tourist,
as it seems to be a friendly local rather than an
international hotspot. With only two selections
of a four-course meal to choose from, the menu
is pretty basic, but the ingredients make up for
that; samphire, steak with sweet potato mash
and mango shrimp are just some of the tastes to
expect. Only one chef prepares the food, so you
could well be in for a wait, and the portions are
small so eat lots. The nouvelle cuisine is,
however, impressive and delicious, and the
constant flow of wine is definitely worth sticking
around for. Just be prepared that even if you
think you’re paying a fair price, they might think
otherwise. CR
A fishy maincourse at Fra Rosa
35
Tea
Tadschikische Teestube
Am Festungsgraben .1, U6, S1, S2, S5, S7, S9, S75
Friedrichstraße
Berlin might be known for its coffeehouses, but if a
cup of tea is more your cup of tea, head to Mitte. It
takes some finding, but hidden in the corridors of
the Palais am Festungsgraben is a gorgeous jewel
of a tea room, all soft lighting and silk cushions at
low tables, where visitors can while away hours
lounging, chatting and of course, drinking tea.
Covering just one room, Tadschikische Teestube
offers an overwhelming selection of teas from
China, to Russia, to Assam and Rooibos, all served
on beautiful crockery. Food leans more towards
snacks than main meals, but is just as interesting
and well-executed, and although the place isn’t
bargain basement, you certainly get your money’s
worth.
A sunny afternoon at Cafe am Neuen See
Beergardens
Cafe am Neuen See
Tiergarten, U2 Zoologischer Garten
Berlin’s biggest and most-famous biergarten (beer
garden), nestled cosily in the idyllic landscape of
Tiergarten, is a perfect spring or summer getaway.
Huge benches fill a large outdoor arena in which
people from all walks of life come together to
drink beer and wine, eat great-quality (but
expensive) pizza, and generally just hang out. It’s
probably the only place you’ll find wine cheaper
than beer too.
Fast Food
Currywurst
One of the German specialities is curried
sausage, otherwise known as the Currywurst.
Though each place has its own way of making
the popular takeout dish, it's generally served
in a bun or with fries and doused with ketchup
and curry sauce / powder.
Konnopke's
U2 Eberswalder Straße, under the bridge
6am-8pm Mon-Fri, 12-7pm Sat
Konnopke’s has been going since 1930 and
there's always a huge queue of hungry tourists
eager to try out their famous sausage. There’s a
range of spiciness levels so tough guys can
enjoy it too, but the sausages lack flavour and
the curried taste often gets lost in the heat.
Witty’s
U1 Wittenbergplatz, opposite KaDaWe
Open daily 11am-midnight
If you prefer something with a bit more of a kick
try Witty's, an upmarket sausage stand in the
west. All the ingredients used at Witty's are
organic, so it is a bit more expensive, but the
difference is in the taste as well as the pocket. A
well-doused Currywurst and crispy, fresh chips
will set you back about €5.
The queue at Konnopke’s normally runs out onto the
street
36
Also try: Curry 195, Kufurstendam .195, their
Currywurst mit zweibel (onions) will set your
mouth watering.
Kebabs
Mustafa’s Gemuse Kebab
Mehringdamm U6, outside station exit.
Don't be put off by the British equivalent of Turkish
kebabs, the ones in Berlin are far more authentic,
fresher and contain meat of a much higher quality.
Try Mustafas for a bargain €3 taste explosion. Their
kebabs contain chicken or doner meat, potatoes,
grilled vegetables and a variety of sauces all
wrapped in a sizeable tortilla. There's a veggie
option too.
Mustafa’s kebab makers take an order
Chips
Beckers Fritten
S1 S2 Oranienburger Straße
Cooked by hand when ordered, you'll be in for a
short wait by this little chip mobile, but it's well
worth the €2 price tag. They have a ridiculously
long menu of delicious sauce toppings, including
'English Curry', 'Special Mix' and hot mayo.
Falafel
dada Falafel
Lindenstraße, S1 S2 Oranienbuger Straße
dada Falafel’s freshly-made chickpea snack tastes
much crispier on the outside and hotter in the
middle compared to that of similar outlets. Get
either a €3 big sandwich and hummous, or €4
falafel or halloumi plate with a variety of salads.
Markets Alexanderplatz Holiday Market
Alexanderplatz
Hot food markets are popular here and
Held two weeks before Christmas and Easter Day
fleamarkets are all the rage, but a good fresh
If you’re in Berlin over the holidays, head to
food market may be hard to come by. Many
Alexanderplatz to sample some of the festive food
Berliners use the supermarkets Lidl and Kaiser’s
and drink at their large outdoor market. Stalls
to stock up on food for the house;. Lidl in
selling everything from fresh fish, meat, and
Germany offers fresh fruit and vegetables and
vegetables to chocolate and beer and oriental
much more good-quality supermarket-type
cuisine are around, in addition to crockery, clothing
foods for great low prices (a six pack of cheap
and bric-a-brac. As it's a holiday market it isn't
beer for €1.30, anyone?). But if you’d rather
hugely cheap, but there are lots of stalls selling the
head to market to find cheap fresh food, here
same thing so if you're prepared to do some
are some of the best we found.
haggling it's relatively easy to find a bargain.
Kreuzberg Turkish Market
Maybachufer, U1 Kottbusser Tor
Tues and Fri 12-6.30pm

Berlin’s largest Turkish market stretches for

over half a mile down the Spree and is
constantly heaving no matter what time you go.
It’s easy to see why: the fresh produce is
available in abundance alongside clothing,
materials and cheap bric-a-brac. Many Turkish
and ethnic spices and products can also be
found and it’s all great value for money. Enjoy a
kebab from one of the delicious-smelling hot
food stalls in the middle of your shopping trip, Hearts for sale at Alexanderplatz Market
but be warned that the local ladies do get feisty
if you stop to look at or buy something and have
Breitscheidplatz Square
the misfortune of getting in their way in the
Breitscheidplatz Square, S5 S7 Zoologisher Garten
process.
Open 10am-8pm daily March-November

If you find yourself shopping in the west, head to

the food market stretching around --- church for a
quick bite of Eastern European or pan Asian
cuisine. French, Chinese, Japanese, Spanish,
German, English and Italian stalls pump out hot,
fresh and very cheap pancakes, noodles and pizzas
by the millisecond. Sitting on the steps in the sun
also provides a welcome break for those with tired
feet and heavy bags and the outlets are much less
expensive than the more upmarket restaurants
nearby. Watch out though for crepe stands offering
€3 pancakes with cheese.. the 'cheese' some of
them use is heavily processed and tastes like
plastic.

Busy fruit and vegetable sellers in Kreuzberg

37
Sweet Treats
While there are bakeries on every main street in
central Berlin pumping out delicious fresh bread
rolls and doughnuts, those with a sweet tooth
may be hard pressed to find a good place for a
suitably fulfilling dessert.
At restaurants the pudding selection is normally
quite basic, with ice-cream and hot and cold fresh
and stewed fruit as main features.
Good ice-cream sellers can be found on many
street corners, especially in warmer months,
often offering a homemade selection of usual
flavours. But if it’s chocolate or cake that you
want, head to the places below for a truly
The enormous chocolate replica of the Brandenburger Tor
indulgent sweet experience.

Cupcakes
Cupcake
Krossenerstrasse .12, U1 Warschauer Straße
Wed-Sun 12pm-7pm

Known in London as the Berliner's competition to

famed cupcake house Hummingbirds, anyone
that's been to the latter will be eager to try out
Cupcake. The tiny store-cum-cafe, which also offers
fresh coffee and tea alongside cupcakes, bakes
their cakes daily in the back kitchen and will
customise the flavours and even letters on top to
your choosing. Or you could just try one from the
Sweet treats at the KaDaWe department store foodhall
menu: peppermint, peanut butter and Oreo cookie
Chocolate are just some of the mouth-watering flavours.
Fassbender and Rausch http://www.cupcakeberlin.de/
Charlottenstraße. 60, U6 U2 Stadtmitte
Mon-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 11am-8pm
cupcake_01
Raging chocoholics should head to Fassbender &
Rausch to salivate over the vast array of
delectable delicacies on display. From reasonably
priced soft-centred truffles in every flavour
imaginable (try chocolate butter for a taste of
heaven), to everyday bars, this place will test
those on the staunchest fat-free diet. Plus,
enthusiasts who admire large chocolate statues
will positively melt at the sight of the
all-chocolate mock Titanic, towering Easter
Bunny and obligatory homage to Brandenburger
Tor.
Some of the cakey delights available at Cupcake

38
Bader and Dawn
Needing a change of scenery and fuelled by a
hunger for the German capital after backpacking
in Berlin several years ago, Dawn Nelson upped
and left America and her former life to go it alone
in one of Europe’s biggest and most exciting
cities.
She met Bader within a month, formed a business
plan to open Berlin’s very first cupcake shop and
the rest, she says, is history.
What made you decide to set up Cupcake and
how did you get the ball rolling?
The concept of Cupcake started out when my best
friend and I were vacationing in Prague. We were
having lunch at a cafe and I was pondering what I
wanted to do for work in Berlin, since good paying
jobs were hard to come by. She said “You love to
bake and cook for other people, so why don’t you
open a cupcake shop!” and the light bulb went
off. When we got back to Berlin I started
researching the idea and realized that there
wasn’t a cupcake shop in Berlin (or even Germany
at the time!) Finally, in April 2007, we officially
opened Berlin’s first cupcake shop!
How did you decide on location of Cupcake and
how did you obtain a lease, get funding and
advertise?
It took us about 5 months to find a good location.
We searched all over Berlin. The store was a
record shop before and Bader used to trade cds
with the previous owner. He mentioned that we
were looking for a shop and the guy actually
39
• Cupcake
happened to be leaving... it was pure luck! We
used our own private money, it was totally DIY. We
have never really spent much money on
advertising; we rely mainly on word-of- mouth
from happy customers.
What clientele do you usually serve at Cupcake?
We get all kinds of people - French, Italian, British,
Canadian, Brazilian... we have also had many
celebrity clients including Tom Cruise and Katie
Holmes, Celine Dion, Jared Leto, loads of bands
and some German actors.
What are the best and worst parts of your work?
The best part is meeting new and interesting
people from all over the world. Our shop is a
magnet for tourists and travellers. It’s really cool
that we get people from Spain or Brazil who have
heard about our cupcakes and searched us out
specifically! The worst part is having to be so
responsible and being so anal retentive about the
cupcakes and the shop. Also, waking up really
early to bake everything in time for opening!
Do you have any future business plans to expand
Cupcake or set up other shops?
We always have ideas about taking things to the
next level and opening more stores, but then
reality sets in and we realize that we already work
so much. Maybe in the near future once we set up
plans and get financial help.
Bader and Dawn pictured behind the counter at
Shopping
Berlin’s shopping areas seems to be are randomly
spread all over the city, so when you head for the
a big shopping spree, please, bring a map! It will
reveal you status as a tourist, but then again –
your permanent look of confusion and your thick
accent has probably done the job already.

Berlin has a few of the compulsory high street

shops, even though its main forces are vintage
and vinyl. H&M, Mango and Zara for example, are Even when closed KaDeWe seems to attract people
located in Kurfürstendam. If you however want to

avoid the loud tourist crowds that surround this
place persistently, you could find the same shops
in the newly opened Alexia or generally
Alexanderplatz or Arkaden at Potzdamer Platz
and Friederichstraβe in der Stadtmitte.
When you are in Berlin you should take advantage
of some the city’s quirkiness illustrated by the
mass of German designers who have small shops
in Prenzlauer Berg, Hackeschermarkt and
Charlottenburg, one of the many vintage shops –
which you almost cannot avoid bumping into and
finally a Sunday flea markets.
As for the more luxurious shopping – most
flagship stores (for instance Louis Vuitton,
Maxmara) are located around Friederichstraβe
and Franchösicherstraβe (U-bahn: Stadtmitte).
This is also
where the
French chain
galleries.
Department
KaDeWe
Tauentzienstraβe 21, Schöneberg
U-bahn: Wittenbergplatz
Mon-Fri 10am-8pm, Sat 9.30am-8pm
KaDeWe is the symbol of western privileges as,
through the separation of Germany, it provided
foreign luxury goods to wealthy western natives.
Now, long after the fall of the Berlin Wall, its
elegance and class still seem to make it stand out
from the crowd.
As for the shopping, however, be aware that it
mainly sells expensive foreign labels and as a
result of this – what you will find on their racks is
often a little conservative. AW
Galeries Lafayette
Französische Straβe 23, Mitte
U-bahn: Französische Straβe
Mon-Sat 10 am-8pm

Focuses mainly on foreign designer labels, but

does have a small but well-equipped section
selling young labels such as Nümph, Session and
Levis.

Join the locals and visit the store just for their
impressive food hall, which specialises in French
delicatessens. AW
Some of the temptations you will experience

40
Berlin Stripped
Nina Tönnies in her shop, Superschlüpfer
Superschlüpfer
Wühlichstraβe 25, Friedericshain
MO-FR 11-20, SA 11-18
Interview with Nina Tönnies, owner of the
underwear clothing shop ‘Superschlüpfer’ in
Friedrichshain.
Exploration of Nina’s quotidian life as a
shopowner in the trendy city of Berlin, the
realisation of her childhood dream of being her
own boss and her ferocious endeavour to save
the old German ‘Schlüpfer’ from extinction.
Abandoning your regular office job as a graphic
designer to open your own boutique seems like a
bold and drastic career change, however for Nina
Tönnies it proved to be the crucial decision that
would forever change her life.
After years of strenuous work within the tedious
and ascetic environment of an agency, Nina
decided it was time for a fresh start in her
professional life, seizing the opportunity to
engage more directly with the people around her.
Inspite of the bureaucratic challenges invloved,
being her own boss has always been Nina’s dream
and she says that is in her blood to have her own
store.
The idea to delve into the stylish world of
underwear clothing did not immediately come to
Nina’s mind, as, sitting over a cup of coffee with
one of her friends, a myriad of different ideas
wrought their way into her shopping-
consciousness.
41
Nina tried to find a promising and unique ‘niche’
in the textile industry, constantly asking herself
what was missing from Berlin’s heavily congested
world of style and fashion.
Having perused the little shops and boutiques
around Berlin’s trendy shopping districts, Nina’s
decisive choice fell on women’s underwear and
the endeavour to offer women a bigger variety of
underwear which is sexy and at the same time
comfortable to wear.
As the old saying goes, it is easier to come up with
an exhilarating idea than implement it, and Nina
encountered various exasperating problems
(money, location, building, etc.) during her
personal project of opening her shop.
Although she knew she wanted to open the shop
in Friedrichshain, one of Berlin’s most fashionable
and desired areas, finding a suitable building
proved to be an arduous fight, as competition for
the location was quite fierce.
An important aspect of the shop was its location
as it should attract random strollers to come in,
have a look around and maybe buy some nice
underwear at afforable prices.
It took Nina a total of 7 months to find the perfect
place, a former appartment, which she
redesigned, refurnished until she was finally able
to open her own little dessous shop last summer
in the sparkling heart of Friedrichshain.
The name ‘Superschlüpfer’ is a hommage to the
old German word for knickers (‘Schlüpfer’) which
is rarely used anymore in everyday German
language and Nina felt compelled to do her part
in the campaign of saving the word from its
immanent extinction.
Despite its size, ‘Superschlüpfer’ boasts a
manifold variety of different choices of fresh and
trendy brands in both women’s and men’s
underwear, sold at very affordable prices ranging
from 10-30€.
.
The initial idea of exclusively selling women’s
underwear was quickly discarded as Nina
realised that men also seem to care about what
they are wearing on a daily basis.
Although Nina currently only sells established
brands, she hopes that she will be able to design
and sell her own creations, exploiting her
background as a creative desginer far away from
the monotonous office world.
Relying on her professional background, Nina
says that having work in the creative industry
has given her a certain feeling for what people
want to buy and her success proves her right.
After a year in business, Nina’s first annual
review was more than optimistic and she is
eager to embark on another successful year
with ‘Superschlüpfer’.
Occupied with taking her shop on the internet,
Nina is currently setting up her online-shop with
shich she hopes to further promote her store
and reach out to an even bigger audience.
If you happen to stroll through the streets of
Friedrichshain and feel like you could do with
some new undies, do check out ‘Superschlüpfer’
and you will be served by a friendly and
welcoming owner who is more than happy to
help you with your selection. PM
Arkaden on a quiet day
42
Shopping Centres
Alexia
Grunerstraβe 20, Alexanderplatz
U-bahn: Alexanderplatz
MO-SA 10.00-21.00
The centre was built in 2008 and is the best place
to shop high street in Berlin.
You will find all the major chain stores here plus
some less international brands which are
definitely worth a visit, like the shoe stores
Vagabond and Bianco and the German Street
One.
In one end of the mall you will find a massive
Mediamarkt which provides almost everything
when it comes to music and DVDs. On the top
floor there are various exhibitions – like Berlin in
Miniature and exhibitions displaying artifacts
from the Titanic. AW
Arkaden
Alte Potzdamer Straβe 7
U-bahn: Potzdamer Platz
MO-SA 10.00-22.00
When arriving at Potzdamer Platz you will be
overwhelmed by the modern Imperia coming out
of nowhere, but instead of gasping in awe for
hours (yes that will reveal your tourist status as
well) go find the hidden-away main entrance to
Arkaden, through a small gate next to Pricewater-
house Coopers.
When walking through you might be tempted to
believe you have found a small courtyard oasis,
but the huge Cinemaxx building and the neon
Arkaden sign will soon make you realize it is not
so.
Inside you will find more high street shops, a
rather impressive choice of places to eat and a
two storey bookshop called Hugendubel, with a
small English fiction department. AW
Books
Whether you are looking for German books,
English books, new bestsellers or maybe classic
hardbacks you will find it in Berlin. One of the
following should meet your needs.
Duusmann
Friederichstraβe 90, Mitte
U: Friederichstraβe
MO-SA 10.00-24.00
For an extremely broad choice of German books,
CD’s and DVD’s visit Das Kulturkaufhaus
Duusmann. In four storeys it provides whatever
you could need – from Opera music to historic
overviews. On the top floor you will find a rather
impressive collection of English books – fiction
and non-fiction, and even a small choice of books
in Spanish, Italian and French.
Marga Schöeller Bücher-
stube
Kneesebeckstraβe 33
S-bahn: Savignyplatz
MO-WE 9.30-19.00, TH-FR 9.30-20.00, SA
9.30-18.00
In four small rooms you will find English and
German literature – approximately half and half. If
you having issues deciding what to select from
the shelves either ask one of the many helpful
staff members or test-drive the material in the
stores small reading corner.
Bücherbogen
Stadtbahnbogen 593, Savignyplatz
S-bahn: Savignyplatz
MO-FR 10.00-20.00, SA 10.00-18.00
Directly under the Savigny S-bahn you will find
the bookstore Bücherbogen.
If you find the more artistic genres interesting,
you can spend hours looking through some of the
amazing books here (be aware, they are all in
german), only being interrupted by the
occassional S-train passing by.
43
Music
Most international music as well as German is
reachable in ordinary music stores located all
over Berlin – for CD’s try either Megamarkt (see
introduction) or Duusmann. If you are looking for
old style retro vinyl, shopping Berlin has a lot to
offer.
When walking down Kastanienalle or through
Prenzlauer Berg in general you will stumble onto a
massive amount of record shops – for example De
Capo.
If you are looking for a real bargain check out one
of the flea markets (see page..)
De Capo
Kastanienalle 96
U-bahn: Eberswalder Straβe
TU-FR 11.00-19.00
De Capo has an impressive selection of old
records such as Beatles, the Doors and Jimi
Hendrix plus a small antique department. Prices
vary from 5 to 20 Euros.
Mr. Dead and Mrs. Free
Bülowstr. 5
U-bahn: Nollendorfplatz
MO-FR 12.00-19.00, SA 11.00-16.00
This place has existed for ages and is established
by the eccentric couple Volker Quante and Ina
Rüberg aka. Mr. Dead and Mrs. Free.
Back in the days it sold the newest upcoming
music, now it provides a nostalgic flashback - for
those old enough to remember.
Most records are priced between 15 and 20€,
which is on the more expensive side. The
selection is however excellent and you will find all
the big ones from the sixties, all the wild ones
from the eighties and even some of the modern
ones, who still rely on vinyl.
The store has a small assortment of cd’s priced
around 7 €, as well. AW
Small Selection of Marga Schöllers assortment
Vintage Shopping Vintage Shopping
Vintage shopping in Berlin can be quite
overwhelming, but as a main rule most vintage
shops can be fitted into one of three categories:
1) The fancy uptown category contains stores
with a handpicked assortment of international
brands such as Prada, Chanel and Dior. These are
obviously the more expensive vintage shops
around, and despite all logic some of the items
sold here become more expensive with time. If
interested visit The Corner or Cash.
2) Shops which sell predominantly handpicked
items but since labeled items are non –existant or
less exclusive, the prices are affordable even for
students. For shops fitting into this category visit
Made In Berlin, Garage , Stiefel Kombinat or
Dressfactor .
3) The charity-shop-category. Second hand shops
where the prices are really really low, but where it
can take hours to find a real gem. If you want to
avoid the unpleasant guilt trip when having spend
too much money, remember to remind you self
that your money goes to charity. Try for example
Humana.
Practical Information
California Select (Alte Schönhauser Straβe 41)
MO-SA 12.00-20.00
Calypso (Rosenthaler Straβe 23)
MO-SA 12.00-20.00
Cash (Rosa Luxembourg Straβe 11)
MO-SA 11.00-19.00
The Corner (Französchische Straβe 40)
MO-SA 10.30-19.30
Danzschuh (Danziger Straβe 2)
MO-SA 10.00-20.00
Made In Berlin (Neueschönhauser Straβe 19)
MO-SA 10.00-20.00
Oder Barfuss (Oderberger Straβe 14)
MO-SA 10.00-20.00
Stiefelkombinat (Eberswalder Straβe 21-22)
MO-WE 10.00-21.00, FR-SA 10.00-23.00
44
- roaming Berlin in a day
Start out at U-bahn Nollendorfplatz, walk up
Einemstraβe and take the second road on your
left. Here, on Ahornstraβe you will find Garage.
After having your bits and pieces weighed you
are ready to head back to Nollendorfplatz.
From here jump on the U-bahn to Friederichstra
βe and get either a tram or the S-bahn to
Hackescher Markt. Enjoy the small quirky
courtyards while looking for Neue Schönhauser
Alle and Made In Berlin.
Next walk up Rosenthaler Straβe. Find Calypso
and live out your shoe fantasies.
From Rosenthaler Straβe walk to Alte
Schönhauser Alle where you will find California
Select and possibly add some American vintage
to your expanding collection.
For more shoeshopping go to Rosa Luxembourg
Platz and grab the U-bahn to Eberswalder Straβe.
Walk down Kastanienalle and be tempted by all
the funky streetwearshops. When you reach
Oderberger Straβe look for the Stiefel Kombinat
which will most likely provide you with your new
boots. If not, the neighbour store Oder Barfuss
will help you out. For heels and sandals head to
Oder Barfuss’ sister shop: Dansschuh at Danziger
Straβe.
From Danziger Straβe find Schliemanstraβe and
Dressfaktor - consider stealing a shopping trolley
for your heavy bags or rest your sore feet while
getting a cup of coffee on a street corner. If
hungry, stop at U-bahn Eberswalder Straβe for a
legendary currywürst (see page..)
When (or if) you feel your feet coming back to
life, walk back to Eberswalder Straβe and grab
the U-bahn to Alexanderplatz, from here grab the
U-bahn to Frankfurter Tor and check out
Humanas trend collection and finally find the
basics you need to compliment your other
vintage buys.
TOP3 Vintage
Garage
Ahornstraβe 2, Schöneberg.
U: Nollendorfplatz
MO-FR 11.00-19.00, SA 11.00-18.00
If you did not know that this place existed you
would think you were lost.
Amongst the family houses and apartments you
will find a small cellar entrance to garage.
Seen from the inside the place is less modest –
with color coordinated clothes taking up almost
every inch of this massive room.
Dress Faktors colourful façade
When researching the selection for your
favorite objects you might find yourself a bit
puzzled – most of the clothes have no price Dressfaktor
marks whatsoever! Instead of paying an unique Schliemannstrasse 9, Prenzlauer Berg.
price for each piece, you are paying per U: Eberswalder Straβe
kilogram – 13,50 euros. MO-SA 10.00-20.00
If you love dresses this is the place to go. As the
A small section of the store is dedicated to name indicates, the shop specialises in dresses,
handpicked clothes which are all price marked – and the shelves are stuffed with big shouldered
this is where you are most likely to find the power-woman-dresses, sixties miniskirts and
biggest treasures – dresses marked around 25€ flowery fifties full shirts, all priced between 25 and
and shoes approximately 15€. 60 Euros.
The shop has a small men’s department as well
If time is not an issue you will find that the rest (dress free!!) and even a children’s apartment
of the shop has a lot of possibilities especially in
the jeans and jackets department. So join the Humana
German and international students and get Frankfurter Tor 3
digging! U: Frankfurter Tor
MO-FR 10.00-19.00, SA 10.00-18.00
30.000 items on four storeys seems on one hand
Humana might not be impressive from the outside, but slightly bewildering, but since all clothes are
from the inside...
categorised in relation to colour and purpose it is
relatively easy to find what you are looking for.

The store has a men’s, a women’s, a furniture and

the most exiting – a trends floor. On the lower
floors the clothes are primarily basic and a little
conservative. The top floor is home to the fun and
time characteristic items, but you will still get
them to a really great price. Belts are around 3
euro, dresses between 15 and 25 € and shirts 5 to
10€.

Be however prepared to fight old German ladies,

and on smaller scale German students, in order to
get your hands on the perfect bargain.

45
Sunday
Flea Markets
One of Berlins many flea markets is the perfect
destination for a Sunday excursion – that is of
course, if you are able to put the pumping
music, the unfortunate dance moves and the
one-to-many-beer-situation behind you.
Because these places are loud, they are
crowded and they will make your hangover feel
at least twice as bad, but if you have time and
enthusiasm you will be able to find unique bits
and pieces and if you are good, you will get it at
a reasonable price as well.
As for always when it comes to fleamarkets,
come early if you want the really good stuff,
come late if want the lowest possible price.
If you are doubting whether it is acceptable to
bargain, an easy way to find out is to point out
an item, ask for the price and shake your head
slightly disbelieving (no matter what the price
is!). Start walking - and if the seller is ready to
haggle he will let you know. If not - you might
have to ask you friend/mother/classmate or
whoever you might be travelling with to go back
and pick up the piece - just to avoid akward
confrontations.
Vinyl enthusiast should head for Boxenhagener Platz
Boxenhagener Platz
Grünberger Straβe, Friedericschain
U-bahn: Samariterstraβe
Sunday 10-18
Has especially a great selection of vinyl records –
priced 5€ for less legendary records and 10-15€
for the popular ones.
Normally you will not get the vinyls any cheaper
than the price tag says - but if you insist on trying,
make sure to do it with a smile!
46
Mauerpark
Bernauer Straβe 63-64,
U-bahn: Eberswalder Platz
Sunday 9-18
The place is normally packed with people so make
sure you have plenty of time – clear at least a
couple of hours or maybe even the whole day.
Enjoy the eclectic mix of vintage shoes, vintage
clothing, vinyl, small designer collections,
funiture, antique books and even a colourfull
massage wagon at the farest end of the market.
Be aware that some stalls have fixed prices, but
most stalls are haggle-zones. You might be able to
get 5-10€ off depending on the original price.
Arkonaplatz
Arkonaplatz, Mitte
U-bahn: Bernauer Straβe
Sunday 10-17
Get away from the crowds at Mauerpark by
walking 5 minutes up Winemünderstrasse and you
will end up at Arkonaplatz. The tourists are
replaced by fashion-interested German students
chilling on the sunny sundays - some of them even
with a beer in one hand.
This is a vintage Mecca, mainly selling shoes
(15-20€), belts (5€) and bags (20-25€) - your price
depends on your bargaining skills.
Unlike flea markets in southern European
countries, it is your job to approach the sellers
when interested. That means you have plenty of
time to check out items without being interrupted
b anything but other overenthusiastic buyers.
At Mauerpark anything is possible
Sports
Not only is Berlin the capital of the country, it is
also an exciting centre for sports. It boasts several
sporting teams and locales, which can both be
enjoyed throughout your stay. If you prefer to see
your sports live, check out the following venues
for live matches.
Olympic Stadium
Olympic Stadium with hovering roof
www.olympiastadion-berlin.de
U2 Olympia-stadion, S75/S7 Olympiastadion
Sport is embedded in the history of Berlin. During
the Nazi, regime the Olympic stadium was
constructed. When the Olympic Games were held
there in 1936, the African-American athlete, Jesse
Owens went on to achieve a staggering four gold
medals. This was a significant achievement, as at
the time Nazi persecution against numerous
ethnic groups was rife.
The stadium, like much of the city, came under
rigorous bombing during World War II. However
after reconstruction work, it continued to be
utilised for different ventures.
More recently the stadium has been used for
other means of entertainment such as concerts,
where such bands as The Rolling Stones and U2
have performed.
In 2000, Berlin failed at their second bid to host
the Olympic Games. Around this time, decisions
were being made as to whether the Olympic
stadium, an archetype of Nazi architecture,
should remain standing.
Ultimately, the decision was reached and
developments for reconstruction were completed
47
in 2004. New features include a distinct ring roof,
which looks as if it is hovering over the stadium.
Two years later, the 2006 World Cup final was held
here and witnessed the unforgettable Zidane head
butt, which will assuredly be engraved in the minds
of football lovers around the city and the world.
From the top of the stadium you have a fantastic
view of the grounds. Entrance costs 4€, or the
discounted rate of 3€ for students. There is also
the option of taking a guided tour, which costs 8€
or 7€ at a discounted rate.
Max-Schmeling-Halle
www.max-scmeling-halle.de
Falkplatz 1. U2, S8/S41/S42 Schönhauser Allee
The Max-Schmeling-Halle is a multi-function arena
in the Prenzlauer Berg district of Berlin. Named
after the famous German boxer, Max-Schmeling,
the stadium was opened on December 14, 1996
by Schmeling himself. The stadium holds between
9,000 and 10,000 people.
Initially the Max-Schmeling-Halle was set to be
used for hosting the 2000 Olympic Games.
However, when the city lost the bid, it went on to
be used for boxing and team handball.
It is also home to the Fuchse Berlin and the Berlin
Mini Basketball Tournament. In addition, the FIBA
EuroStar games were held here in 1998 and World
Wrestling Entertainment (WWE) has been twice
held at the stadium in April 2005 and 2006.
The O2 World Arena
www.o2world.com
Mühlenstraße 12-30
U1 and S3/S5/S7/S9 Warschauer Straße.
The O2 World Arena is an indoor arena that is
home to the ALBA Berlin basketball team, the Ice
Hockey team, the Berlin Eisbärens and the Fuchse
Berlin Team Handball team.
Construction work cost around €165 million and
was completed in 2008. The enormous stadium
can host up to 17,000 people. Apart from housing
major sport events, the O2 Arena also functions as
a concert venue for international stars such as
Lionel Richie and Beyonce.
Berlin’s teams
Generally Berlin sports teams perform highly in
their relative games and are rarely out of the top
positions in their respective league tables.
Between them, Berlin’s sporting teams have won
numerous domestic championships and have
also been successful on an international scale.
Football
Staging their games at the magnificent Olympia
Stadium, Hertha BSC Berlin is the city’s most
renowned football club. Since their promotion in
the mid-nineties, the team has been playing
more or less successfully in the German
Bundesliga. Although the team have been
modestly succesful on the European level, they
have failed to make a major impact in the
domestic league. Nevertheless, the current
season looks rather promising for the long
suffering, success starved supporters as the
team ranks amongst the clubs contesting for the
title. Kicking in the shadows of their prominent
local rivals, Union Berlin is the city’s second
football team. Attracting a more working class
crowd and hosting their games in the ‘Stadion
an der alten Förterei’, the club has caused some
uproars in the past by eliminating high rank
teams in the domestic cup. Besides Hertha’s
success in the Bundesliga this year, Union has
also achieved considerable success by being
promoted to the country’s second Bundesliga.
Watch out, they might soon confront Hertha on
the big stage. If you fancy some fancy footwork
or some gruelling tackles, keep your eyes open
for the team’s home matches.
(www.herthabsc.de;www.fc-union-berlin.de)
Prices for FC-Union-Berlin concession, start from
8€ and seating concession start from 18€ .
48
For Hertha BSC, starting prices are from 10.50 €.
Basketball
Berlin’s basketball team, ALBA Berlin – aka The
Albatross – is one of the city’s newest sporting
clubs and was founded in 1991. The team‘s home
matches are played at the O2 Arena throughout
the season, which runs from Autumn to Spring.
The team also plays in the European league, so try
and catch one of their home games and mingle
with their dedicated fans in an electrifying
atmosphere. Tickets start from 10€.
Ice Hockey
The Berlin Eisbären (Berlin Polar Bears) is the
city’s ice hockey team and was established in
1954. The team, a founding member of the
Deutsche-Eishockey-Liga, has had some ripping
success over the last few years.
The Eisbären’s home games were formerly held in
the Wellblechplast Stadium until Autumn 2008
when the O2 World arena was completed. Their
seasons run from September through to April.
Ticket prices start from 20€.
Handball
Less known outside continental Europe, Handball
is a fast paced and spectactular sport attracting
an ever-increasing crowd. The Füchse Berlin Team
Handball Club competes in the German First
League of Handball.
The men’s handball team has been quite
successful on a national as well as international in
recent times. In 2007, the team won the IHF
World Men’s Handball Championships. They were
also European Champions in 2004, and runners
up in 2002. If you want to admire some hectic ball
play, give handball a go.
Tickets start from 10€ or 8€ for concessions.
Watching Sport
Sport in Stadiums
Football, or Fußball as the Germans say, receives
a fair and wide spread amount of admiration in
Berlin.
The atmosphere in a football stadium remains
electric, whether there are several hundred,
thousands or just a mere dozen of fans. There is
always mass support being drummed up for their
specific team. At any level of the sport, there is
always encouragement for the team.
Don’t leave your seat during half time, as the
unique and entertaining half time hits are an
integral part of the spectacle. Also the chanting,
cheering and occasional swearing comes from
the players as much as it comes from the
audience.
However, nothing can replace the deafening roar
that comes from the crowd when the team
scores a goal.
Sports Bars
www.belushis.com
Rosa Luxemburg Straße 39 – 41, U2
Rosa-Luxemburger-Platz.
Open Monday - Friday: 12.00pm – Midnight and
Saturday - Sunday: 12.00pm - 2.00am.
So, if you can’t get yourself to one of the teams’
home matches, or maybe there’s a vitally
important international match between
Germany and the Former Yugoslav Republic of
Macedonia that you just have to watch, then get
your supporter-scarf on and head to one of the
many Sports Bars. Berlin’s Sports Bars provide
the right mix of a chilled out laid back
environment with adrenaline pumping action
from the crowds and the screen.
Watching sports in Berlin can be easily done;
several Sports Bars are located around the city
and are easy to access.
If you want a slightly chilled sporting experience
then watching games in a Sports Bar is just the
thing for you. Berlin offers a great variety of
different Sports Bars- be sure to check out
Belushi's in Berlin. It has franchises based
throughout England, but this establishment
based in the German capital boasts a large bar,
continuous specials on drinks and five plasma
49
screens for you to watch all your sporting delights.
Another big screen is also available for more sports
viewing as well as wireless internet access in case
you are desperate to check the latest results of
your favourite team.
Picker’s Sports Bar
Uhlandstraße 185-186, U1 Uhlandstraße
Described as the sporting version of the Hard Rock
cafe, the Picker's Sports Bar is filled with an
abundance of sporting memorabilia and large
screens TVs. Serving American-style dishes – and
portions (although half portions are also available)
there will be plenty for you to eat as you watch.
Make sure that you reserve a table as this place is
really popular.
Sports Bar Tor
Torstraße 133, U6 Oranienburger Tor
Open Monday-Sunday 11.00am to 2.00am.
Sports Bar Tor offers a wide range of action for
people to watch including Football, Ice Hockey,
Formula One and Basketball. All the broadcasts are
live and in addition, the bar provides, sporting
facilities for Mountain Bike or BMX, Free Climbing,
Skating and In-line skating.
Practising Sport
There are many forms of sport that people can
take part in when in Berlin. Cycling is a fantastic
way to get a great view of the cityscape. Streets
and sidewalks have wide walkways, making it
easier for people to cycle. Beware however, as
Berliners tend to ignore the general traffic rules
and recklessly ride the streets at their free will.
Central points such as the Brandenburg Gate, the
Holocaust Memorial and the Reichstag are easy to
travel to from Berlin’s central point Alexanderplatz.
Bicycles are available for rent from various places
around the city for a small fee.
In addition jogging provides an alternative view
around the city. The sidewalks offer generous
leeway for jogging and are rarely crowded out with
people at any time of the day.
Lush garden grounds and parks also feed the eyes
and mind, while the quaint and peaceful spots
spur you on for miles more jogging. For a day or
afteroon of sporting fun, a particularly good spot
is Treptower Park. To get there take the U1 to
Warschauer Straße, then change to the S9 on the
S-bahn and hop off at Treptower Park.
In addition, Tiergarten, as well as many of Berlin’s
other spacious parks, also provides plentiful
space for cycling, jogging or the rather
funny-looking activity called power walking.
Over the last decade, skateboarding has gradually
taken over the city. If you’re a fan of manoeuvres
such as the Ollie, Kick-flip or 360° spin, Cassiopeia
is a hot spot for you. Take the U1 or the S-Bahn,
S3, S5, S7 or S9 and stop off at Revaler Straße).
Although Berlin provides a large skatepark in the
alternative Cassiopeia club, the whole city is
exploited as a skating ground by skaters of all
ages. Check ahead for futher details on
www.cassiopeia-berlin.de, but do be aware that
the content on the website is written in German
(so get your translation dictionaries ready!).
Swimming pools are dotted all around the capital
and cater to a wide variety of preferences. With
specifications ranging from indoor, outdoor,
heated pools and gender only swimming areas,
there is something for everyone.
The prices for entry into swimming pools do vary,
with some starting from 4€ for adults to a
discounted rate of 2.50€ for children. Opening
and closing hours do differ from pool to pool, so
check out the BBB (Berlin Bath Holdings) website
or call 01803 10 20 20, to find out which pools are
most convenient to you and your likings.
For the tee-time lovers, Golf Central Mitte located
at, Chaussee Straße 94-98, there is a driving
range. Opening times are from 8 .00am until late
into the night, all year round. Facilities include 60
The Floating pool
50
pitch and putt greens. Prices start from 1€ for forty
balls between 7am to midday, and thereafter cost
2€. To get there take the U6 to Schwartzkopf
Straße.
After a sport-heavy day, you can unwind by
submerging yourself in a unique floating swimming
pool, the Badeschiff. Located on floating pods on
the Spree River bank in East Berlin, you can go in
for a relaxing experience in the sauna or go for a
floating swim in one of their outdoor pools. The
view of the city landscape is spectacular at either
day or night, so take an exceptional dive in the
pool.
The Badeschiff was opened in June 2004, initially
as an art project by local artists Susanne Lorenz.
The pool provides a great view of the city by both
day and night.
The pools open in early May for the summer
season and run from 8.00am til. However the
pools have proven to be very popular, so get there
early to make sure you get some space in the pool.
Entry costs 3€. The Badeschiff is part of the Arena
Berlin. Take a dive in, at Eichenstraße 4, U1
Schlesisches Tor.
For the sports enthusiasts among you, there is
always something going on to keep you on your
feet. Then on completion of your adrenaline
fuelled sports fest, this is the perfect place to chill
out and relax or pamper yourself.
 Nightlife
Unnamed Bar
Oranienstraβe 33-34
U1, U8 Kotbusser Tor
This bar is evidently ‘too cool’ to constrain itself
or adhere to the norm by giving itself a name, but
oddly it completely succeeds in pulling this off.
Swarms of young people travel from all over
Berlin to meet in the latest cool bar. This bar is a
great place to socialise, its hazy, smoky interior
adding to the grounded and unpretentious
atmosphere. The abundant collection of non
matching furniture as well as the clearly non-
health and safety approved ‘balconies’ enhance
its nonchalant attitude and brand this as the
perfect place to start off your weekend.

Brash lighting at A Trane

A-Trane
www.a-trane.de
In terms of its nightlife Berlin is best to be
Bleibtreustraβe 1
described as perplexing. It hosts a huge
S75 Savignyplatz
selection of clubs and bars. In the shabbier
For those well-versed in jazz clubs or even those
district of Kreuzberg you can find laid back and
who have never been, this place fits the criteria;
relaxed bars, which are often heaving with
crowded with jazz enthusiasts, check, small,
people and in many places include the option of
check, smokey, check….. Definitely a worthy
dancing. Then onto the renowned nightclubs
experience, with new and upcoming artists
where many choose to dance their way into
performing for free on Mondays and Saturdays,
daylight. Berlin’s nightlife is incessant, and as
it’s a great way to have your first encounter with
long as you have the stamina and know where
jazz without having to pay the hefty prices for
the party‘s at, you can easily enjoy the delights
the more established musicians. It’s certainly
of socialising, drinking and dancing seven nights
beneficial to reserve places online beforehand
a week. The city also has a population that is
and arrive on time, otherwise you will find
dedicated to its nightlife. This can be seen
yourself standing up, sweaty, at the back of a
through the quality of the broad selection of
crammed room.
music that the city has to offer, with RnB,
hip-hop and techno nights, right through to the
Balkan dubstep and Russian Gypsy-orientated
nights. The majority of clubs in Berlin are blasé
about confining themselves to one style of
music or one clientele base, and this is what
nachtleben
If you’re interested in knowing what
gives them a more casual and informal particular nights are taking place at various
ambience. Yet the pretentious and ‘superior’ clubs or what live acts are performing,
clubs are plenty, and still worth going to in order pick up a free nachtleben Berlin guide. They
to gain a full experience of Berlin. So get in the are usually found lurking among the postcards
‘schlange’, (which means queue but translates and flyers found by the toilet facilities in bars
as snake) and enjoy the diverse nightlife /cafes/clubs. Or you can pick up Zitty or Tip at
experience that is Berlin. most kiosks for a couple of euros.

51
 DachKammer
www.DachKammer.com
Simon-Dach-Straβe 39
Friedrichshain
U1, S75, S7, S5, S9, S3 Warschauer Straβe

From the outside, you’re drawn towards this bar

due to its disorganised, cluttered appearance.
After entering, you will find yourself transported
back into the 70s, the purposely dated blasé
furniture strewn around both floors adding to the
ambience. This bar is perfect for a casual, relaxed
drink, and the maze of rooms offers a variety of
chaotic furniture whilst adding an element of
eccentricity to this spacious bar. With most beers
at 2,80€ and special Monday to Friday cocktails
only 4,10€, this bar is definitely worth a visit and
is often found to be swarming with students. The
welcoming atmosphere and dusky lighting
separates this bar from those more select and
pretentious. Try to aim for the happy hour, daily
from 7pm to 8pm, in order to make a saving.

Summer drinks on the canal side at Club der Visionaire

(pg. 54)

GDR chic furniture in Dachkammer

Shisha
Krossener Straβe 19
Friedrichshain
U1, S75, S7, S5, S9, S3 Warschauer Straβe

Going to a Shisha bar is a relaxing and social

experience in a fast paced capital city like Berlin.
Smoking Shisha has become a popular reserve
of the twentysomethings of Berlin, and this
particular bar in Friedrichshain has a vibrant
collection of ten different flavours ranging from
melon to vanilla at an appealing price of approx.
€5 each. Shisha is quite a large establishment
with private, dimmed lighting in the evenings
where you can quite easily smoke away the
hours with the accompaniment of good
conversation. There’s also outdoor seating
where you can read a book and enjoy the
haziness of shisha in the sun.

52

Kitsch/retro lamps at DachKammer
Am einem Sonntag in
August
Kastanielle 103
Prenzlauer Berg
U2 Eberswalder Straβe
This bar is located in the popular and vibrant
area of Prenzlauer Berg. Its relaxed and laid
back atmosphere secures its firm popularity
with those who enjoy sitting and chatting late
into the evening. Best for a lazy Sunday, or any
other afternoon, lounging about in the hazy
sun, as the name suggests. The outdoor seating
area has a tranquil vibe and is contrasted with
the inside, which has crazy, shiny, sequinned
gold curtains and blood red walls. This bar is a
really interesting space but the prices for
cocktails and other long drinks are quite steep
so it may be best to stick to a beer for this one.
Drinks at the hazy smokey Unnamed bar
53
Cake
31-32 Oranienstraβe
Kreuzberg
U1, U8 Kotbusser Tor
Cake is a remarkable place to, by chance,
suddenly stumble upon well into the twilight
hours. Your immediate instincts tell you this is a
bar, yet when you enter you discover the place to
be bursting at the seams with the most bizarre
assortment of people, all dancing to the eclectic
variety of music. With an entrance fee that is
insignificant and cheap drinks, you can easily
dance your way into the next day to Manu Chao,
Justice and German rap as well as Turkish folk, all
blaring out of the sound system. Saturdays seem
to be most popular. This is definitely one to visit,
especially if it`s on the way back home at 4am.
Kaffee Burger
Torstraβe. 60 Mitte
U2 Rosa Luxembourg Platz
If you are partial to some Gogol Bordello, Balkan
Beat Box or you just want to liberate your talent
for Cossack dancing along with everyone else,
then the twice monthly Russendisko is where you
need to be at. This is a night that cannot be
defined as you have no idea what you might find
yourself ‘dancing’ to- a Katy Perry Russian remix
anybody? By the time a song is replayed later on
in the night, you’ll find yourself ecstatic and
singing along to the ‘Moskva, Moskva’ lyrics.
Kaffee Burger hosts a wealth of different
musically themed nights, ranging from soul and
funk to dance punk and Balkan ska. Kaffee Burger
is definitely well worth the visit just for the
random music selection alone, and with cheap
entrance and a busy throng of people, it has
certainly secured its popularity for the future. The
décor has not been altered from its GDR days and
the majority of the alcohol is averagely priced.
One thing to watch out for is the vodka shots
which come in the standard Russian size of a
teacup, and will certainly leave you on the floor
after busting your Cossack moves.
Café Zapata
Oranienburger Straβe 53-56
U6 Oranienburger Tor

Café Zapata is the adjoined bar that

complements the Tacheles project. When
entering don’t be discouraged by the general
disorganisation which rules the site, as it is a
vibrant and interesting place which desires to be
explored. It often has a variety of new and
interesting acts going on simultaneously, and the
generally relaxed and casual mood in the
frenzied centre of the city gives Café Zapata an
interesting contrast in comparison to the other
bars in the area. It’s the perfect place to relax and
socialise with cheap beers.

Club der Visionaire

Flugraben 2 Suggestive murals at Zu mir oder zu Dir?
U1 Schlesisches Tor
Zu Mir oder zu Dir? [Your
This bar/club has an incredibly relaxing setting on
an arrangement of barges on the canal side in
place or mine?]
Lychener Straβe 15
Friedrichshain. It hosts a variety of DJs and other
U2 Eberswalder Straβe
experimental musicians, and in the evenings
there are usually interesting acts taking place so
Compared to many of the Berlin bars, this one is
you can dance your way into daylight on the canal
quite lavish, and interestingly decorated with a
side. It is often crowded with those who want to
kitsch 70s theme. After entering you will notice
sit in the sun and enjoy a cool beer and some
the double bed for lounging on, which continues
techno beats by the water’s edge. Definitely
the insinuation of the title. Although the bar is not
worth visiting even if just to watch others
that large, there is an huge choice of very
drunkenly navigate their way around on the
comfortable seating and the DJ starts quite early
swaying barges. Drinks are well priced and the
on in the night. Drinks are well priced and the bar
atmosphere is always relaxed.
attracts a variety of stylish people. Also don’t
forget to observe the disco ball in the toilet.
Waterside lighting by Club der Visionaire

54
Hostels
These days, all major cities provide plenty of
accommodation options, but for anyone
travelling on a budget hostelling is usually the
way to go, and in Berlin it’s easy to see why. Not
only do hostels provide a cheap alternative, and
provide a great range of services, they are a great
way to meet people – the common room of a
hostel will always provide a more social
atmosphere than any hotel bar.

In Paris or Amsterdam it can be next to Themed floor of the Sunflower Hostel

impossible to find somewhere for less than 25€ a
night. Berlin however is a lot more affordable. In
terms of price, quality and quantity, the
hostelling scene in Berlin is one of the best in
Europe. What’s more, the public transport
system here is comprehensive enough that
location doesn’t have to be the deciding factor
for your stay.
What makes hostels preferable to any of the
budget hotels around (although there are plenty
around if dorm beds and shared bathrooms
aren’t your thing) is the social atmosphere they
provide. For a friendly environment which
provides the best opportunity to meet people,
plus added access to the internet and cooking
facilities, a good hostel is definitely the best way
to go. Hostel staff tend to be young people who
know the city and can answer your questions
about interesting museums and cool bars – good
hostel staff can be the best source of information
available to you and can make a huge difference
to how much your stay. The independent, smaller
hostels of Berlin tend to outdo the bigger
chaines, with a more personal touch, as staff
(often the owners) do their best to make sure
you enjoy your stay.
Circus Hostel
www.circus-berlin.de (0)30 20 00 39 39
Weinbergsweg 1a
U8 Rosenthaler Platz
Dorms from €19
Located only a few stops from the metro exit (take
Weinbergersweg or Rosenthaler Straße exit) this
hostel is in a neighbourhood full of cool bars and
restaurants. Much lauded by the major travel
guides, Circus Hostel provides guests with so
many services its hard to know where to start:
bicycle hire, car hire, segway hire, laptop hire and
free wireless internets, a bar downstairs and a
cafe next door (that allows guests access to some
basic kitchen facilities) with some very affordable
breakfast options. The hostel also has some
apartments for hire so attracts a crowd of all ages.
Staff are friendly and have good knowledge of the
city to help you find your way around Berlin.
The entrance to the Circus Hostel

Regardless, your impression of any hostel will

usually eventually come down to one thing – the
people you meet there. But having a good
location, friendly staff, clean bathrooms and not
having to pay a fortune for them can go a long
way to helping you enjoy your visit to a city. So
the hostels listed here are some of the best Berlin
has to offer – enough to fill a variety of
preferences.

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Lette‘m Sleep
www.backpackers.de (0)30 44 73 36 23
Lettestraße 7
U2 Eberwalderstraße S8 Schönhauser Allee
Dorms from 19€
Lette’m Sleep is the kind of hostel that’s
excellent for solo travellers. Small enough to
have a guest kitchen and big enough that there
will always be a few people there to meet.
Coffee, tea and internet (including wireless) are
free and the large windows of the common room
Common room and kitchen at Let ‘em Sleep
look out onto a relaxed Prenzlauer Berg street,
within easy walking distance of some of Berlin’s
best bars and cafes (see Food & Drink and Helter Skelter Hostel
Nightlife sections). www.helterskelterhostel.com (0)30 28 04 49 97
Kalkscheunenstraße 4-5
S25 S1 Oranienburger Straße
ComeBackPackers U6 Oranienburger Tor
Dorms from 14€
www.comebackpackers.com (0)30 60 05 75 27
Hidden down an alleyway and up a flight of stairs,
Adalbertstraße 97
this is the perfect old-school hostel – kitchen,
U1 U8 Kottbusser Tor
common room, internet and bunk beds in a
Dorms from 14€
retrofitted old Berlin building. Linen and towels
Once you have entered via the scummy entrance
are included in the price, and they always keep
and up several flights of dubious looking stairs,
some beds free in the busy season for people who
you will find this brand new and rather excellent
haven’t booked. The atmosphere here is cosy and
hostel. Huge common room with all the
the usual crowd is made up of students and
amenities you need (kitchen, bar and fussball
backpackers. They also provide breakfast for 3€.
table), giant dorms that accommodate 14 beds
Laundry facilities are available in their partner
very easily, plus lockers, and plenty of outside
hostel, Heart of Gold (see below), just down the
gravel decks for chilling with a few bevvies, this is
road.
terrific value for only 14€ a night (3€ extra for
breakfast). It is also literally metres away from
the U bahn station and in the middle of grunge
chic Kreuzberg. Pun aside, you’ll be comeback- Heart of Gold Hostel
ing. EJ. www.heartofgold-hostel.de (0)30 29 00 33 00
Johanisstraße 11
S25 S1 Oranienburger Straße
U6 Oranienburger Tor
Dorms from 15€
The larger, newer partner of Helter Skelter, Heart
of Gold has themed itself on ‘The Hitch Hikers
Guide to the Galaxy’, but still remains cool rather
than kitsch. Reception is open 24 hours and the
bar/common room area is huge. Due to its size
this place is also more suited to large groups.

ComeBackPackers common room

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Entrance of Sunflower Hostel
Pfefferbett Hostel
www.pfefferbett.de (0)30 93 93 58 58
Schönhauser Allee 176
U2 Senefelder Platz
Dorms from 16€ plus tax
Another Friedrichshain establishment, this very
new hostel can be a little hard to find, but follow
the signs up the stairs to the Pfefferburg
restaurant and you will get there eventually. It
attracts a mixed crowd of all ages and is often
used by large groups, but it has nice new rooms
and the rarity of free internet. Staff are helpful
and friendly and it’s only a few minutes away
from the nearest U-bahn station. Also, those
under 26 don’t have to pay tax and there are
plenty of services available including bike rental,
laundry facilities, book exchange, pool table,
lockers, a postal service and an outdoor area with
a view.
Beer garden at the Generator Hostel
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An unfortunate trend has emerged among many
newer hostels, of substituting good kitchen
facilities for breakfast. In a lot of cities, this is
included in the price, Berlin however is not one
of them, and extra charges for breakfast can
range between 2€ and 5€. When this is in
addition to linen hire, towel hire, luggage
storage facilities etc, the hidden fees of a hostel
mean you can end up paying a lot more than the
15€ a night that you thought you were. All
“extra” fees for hostels reviewed here are
included.
Sunflower Hostel
www.sunflower-hostel.de (0)30 44 04 42 50
Helsingforser Straße 17
U1, S5, S7, S9, S75, Warschauerstraße
Dorms from 13€
Regularly updated with ‘themed’ rooms and bunk
beds that you won’t hit your head on, cool,
welcoming staff and a very chilled out bar make
this place an excellent choice for your stay in
Berlin. Located in the very fashionable area of
Friedrichshain, there is lots of info available on
Berlin, and also internet (including free wireless)
and laundry facilities on hand.
Also note that kitchen facilities are only available
on request – make sure you mention this when
booking!
Generator Hostel
www.generatorhostels.com/en/berlin
(0)30 41 72 400
Storkower Straße 160
S8, S45, S46, S47 Landsberger Allee
Dorms from 10€
This place is big. Really big. At 902 beds it’s
Germany’s (and possibly Europe’s) biggest hostel.
So while it doesn’t exactly have a cosy
atmosphere, it makes up for it with a huge range
of (often free) services and by being just about
the cheapest bed you can find for a night in
Berlin. For your 10€, you get a bed in a 12-person
dorm, free linen, breakfast, a drink at the bar and
a free walking tour. It’s not an ideal area, but it is
literally right next to the S-Bahn station, so be
prepared to spend some money on transport.

East Seven Hostel
www.eastseven.de (0)30 93 62 22 40
Schwester Straße 7
U2 Senefelderplatz
Dorms from 17€
A fairly recent addition to the Berlin hostelling
scene, at the ripe old age of three, East Seven still
manages to retain some traits of an old school
backpackers joint – kitchen, common room, and
beer garden. And if you’re in Berlin on a Monday
night, this is the place to stay for a free vegetarian
dinner. Note though, that there is a compulsory
3€ fee for linen and while there are internet
facilities (wireless is free), it’s a little pricey
compared to most internet cafes in Berlin (see
Dos and Do Nots section). Same goes for the ‘low
cost’ drinks available at reception.
Reading corner at East Seven
Eastern Comfort Hostelboat
www.eastern-comfort.com(0)30 66 76 38 06
Mühlen Straße 73-77
U1, S5, S7, S9, S75 Warschauerstraße
Dorms from 16€
Lacks the charm that you might think automatic
in a hostel ‘boat’, but if you like the novelty of
sleeping on the water in an amazing location
(right next to the start of the East Side Gallery and
the U-Bahn station) this is the place for you. The
bar upstairs is the perfect place to spend a lazy
afternoon in the sun, and is also open to the
public. But beware, there is no kitchen and
breakfast – at 4€ – is at the pricier end of the
scale.
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JetPak Hostel
www.jetpak.de (0)30 78 44 360
Pariser Straße 58
U9 Spicherstraße
Dorms from 18€
A relatively small, but very popular hostel in a
quieter neighbourhood. There is no kitchen but
breakfast is on offer for 3€ in the cafe at reception.
Also note that there are no other food stores in the
area so be prepared to bring supplies with you.
.
Eastern Comfort Hostel ‘boat’
There are now several hostel booking sites
available online which allow people who have
stayed in a hostel to give it a rating. They differ in
size and extra charges, so if you have some time,
look around to minimise your costs. Also, hostels
don’t always allocate all their beds to online
booking sites, so if the place you want looks
booked out, try emailing the individual hostel, or
giving them a call.
- www.hostelworld.com - the most comprehen-
sive of these sites. Includes a service charge, and
prices quoted can sometimes be higher than on
other sites, however this is also the most user
friendly.
- www.hostelbookers.com -fewer hostels listed
and includes hotels and private rooms, but there
is no service charge.
- www.gomio.com - no charge to use and many
hostels listed
- www.hostels.com - fairly similar to hostelworld
but less users so less ratings
- www.hostelz.com - also has a large selection,
but not the best interface as it does not display
prices on its main page and clicking through to
individual hostels can be time consuming.
Meet the team
Eloise Johnstone, Australia
Practical Inforation
Eloise is currently travelling Europe after finishing her Journalis
degree. She is into sipping fine cheap beer, jiving the night away to
pretentious indie rock and roll and making up nicknames for people.
Has a poorly concealed nerdy passion for European history which is
often exposed at her clear excitement when approaching a good
quality museum.

Adija Adamu, Cameroon

Itineraries
Adija studies tourism and hospitality management at the Eastern
Mediterranean University in northern Cyprus. She loves dancing,
listening to music, travelling, meeting new people, and having quiet
moments alone.

John Latham, England

HIstory
John is a 22-year old history graduate from Loughborough, who is
currently working towards a writing career after travelling the Silk
Road. His interests include cooking, world music, and a masochistic
support for West Bromwich Albion FC.

Pitt Max, Luxembourg

Museums
Pitt is a recent MA graduate in contemporary English literature from
the mighty Grand Duché of Luxembourg. Eager to finally get a job and
exploit his writing skills, he is currently looking for an opportunity to
break into the brutally competitive world of public relations. Besides
his affinity for cheap German beer, he loves the smell of grilled
Turkish meat in the late hours of the evening.

Anne Smellie, England

Arts and Culture
Anne loves the great outdoors, sport and sarcasm. Running has
been the best way to see the city, as without trainers she would not
have discovered that the East Side Gallery was a mere 5 minutes
from her apartment. She would also have failed to discover that the
drunk red-faced man who sits outside the newsagent on
Adalbertstraße is not only there between 9am and 9pm, but also
can be seen at 6am with a Sternberger in hand. She is considering
joining him one day.

59
Cathy Reay, England
Food and Drink
Cathy is a journalist from London,. She writes for a charity magazine
by day and dances stupidly at music concerts on behalf of
entertainment publications by night. She hated beer before she
came to Berlin, now she can’t get enough of it. She loves food
almost as much as music (and beer), especially cupcakes.

Anne Wittorff, Denmark

Shopping
Anne is addicted to travelling with her backpack, however needs to
invent something that will allow her to do more shopping whilst
backpacking. Loves pizza fungi when drunk and is more than
capable of finishing an entire one on her own.

Ruth Jacob, England

Sport
Ruth Jacob is a Nigerian born final year Journalism and Economics
student. She loves, music, singing, eating, fashion, sport, keeping up
with current affairs and is keen to get travelling around this planet
and beyond. She can be a little shy and quiet sometimes. You know
what they say about the quiet ones...

Natasa Vunduk, England

Nightlife
Natasa has developed an unhealthy addiction to gherkins during her
time in Berlin. She also likes taking photographs. Also when
someone concocts an injection of enthusiasm, she would quite like
to know about it.

Hannah Bourke, Australia

Hostels
Hannah is a temporarily homeless and jobless individual from
Newcastle, Australia. She enjoys travelling, shopping and music in
all its forms, and is currently putting off getting a job and becoming
a grown-up for as long as possible. She has also been seriously
considering getting a goldfish.

David Aguirre Hoffmann, Honduras

Graphic Designer
David’s enthusiasm for digital arts has taken him to very inspiring
locations since his childhood. At the moment he’s lucky enough to be
living in Berlin, and continues to draw his days away into the next
horizon.

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© 2009 - Berlin Colour by CityTravelReview
Design and Layout by David Aguirre Hoffmann