DISCOVERING WAKHAN
The great explorers who visited Wakhan are still asource o inspiration and wonder or today’s intrepidtravellers – Hsuan Tsang, the 7th century Chinese monkwho went in search o Buddhist teachings; Marco Polo,who in the 13th century journeyed overland to China;Mirza Muhammad Haidar, who chronicled the MoghulEmpire in the 16th century; Lieutenant John Wood andLord Curzon, Englishmen who searched or the source othe Oxus River in the 19th century; Sir Aurel Stein, the20th century British archeologist who sought to unravelthe Buddhist history o Innermost Asia; and mountaineerH.W. Tilman who sought unknown routes across themountain ranges.Snowcapped peaks soar majestically above villagesand glaciers descend precipitously to eed raging rivers inthis land o immense scale, beauty and contrast. On theAghan Pamir, the unimaginably wide open spaces seemto extend orever. Here you’re more likely to bump into abig-horned sheep or a brown bear than another humanbeing.Yet Wakhan is also home to hardy mountain people– Wakhi armers and herders, who greet guests withunmatched hospitality – a warm smile, a cup o tea and abowl o yogurt – and the last remaining Kyrgyz nomads,whose welcoming yurts dot the ertile grasslands o theAghan Pamir.
“In the middle of the Pamir valley is a great dragon lake, clean and pure as a mirror; the colour of the lake is dark blue and the taste of the water sweet and soft.”
Hsuan Tsang
THE AFGHAN PAMIR
Pamir
areuniqueU-shaped,high-elevationmountain valleysdistinctivetoCentralAsia,wheretherearemorethanhaladozennamed
pamir
.Renownedassummergrazinggroundsortheirabundantgrassandwater,thesevastplateausarecoveredbysnowsixmonthsotheyear.TeAghanPamirincludetwosuchgrasslandsattheeasternendoWakhan–theBigPamirandtheLittlePamir,whicharebetterknownbytheirPersiannames.TeBigPamirorGreatPamiriscalledPamirKalanandPamir-e-Buzurg(
kalan
and
buzurg
bothmean‘great’or‘large’).TeLittlePamiriscalledPamirKhurdandPamir-e-Kochak(
khurd
and
kochak
bothmean‘little’or‘small’).Te60kmlongBigPamirnestlesbetweentheSouthernAlichurRangetothenorthandtheWakhanRangetothesouth.TeLittlePamir,at100kmlongand10kmwide,isactuallylargerinareathantheBigPamir,yetthemoreruggedBigPamirhasahigherelevationandsoearnsitsname.Tepropername‘Pamirs’typicallyreerstotheCentralAsianmountainrangethatextendsromajikistanintoAghanistanandChina.
WAKHAN IS A LAND SO REMOTE THAT FEW OUTSIDERS HAVE EVER VENTURED THERE. YET THROUGH WAKHANFLOWED A VITAL BRANCH OF THE GRAND TRANS-ASIAN ARTERY KNOWN AS THE SILK ROAD, LINKING EAST TO WEST.PETROGLYPHS DEPICTING WARRIORS, HUNTING SCENES, CARAVANS AND BUDDHIST HISTORY, ALONG WITH THEOCCASIONAL
RABOT
OR TRAVELLERS’ SHELTER, BEAR SILENT WITNESS TO THE TRACKS OF TRADITION, AND OFFERTHE VISITOR A GLIMPSE INTO THE RICH HERITAGE OF PILGRIMS, CARAVANS AND ARMIES THAT ONCE TRAVERSEDTHIS CLASSIC ROUTE.www.wakhan.org
Aghanistan’sWakhanDistrictisanarrowstripolandseparatingajikistanandPakistanthatjutseastwardsome350kmtomeettheChinaborder.WakhanDistricthastwodistinctparts–theWakhanCorridorandtheAghanPamir.AlloWakhanliesatelevationshigherthan2000mandtheAghanPamirliesabove3500m.TeWakhanCorridorisadeepvalleyormedbythePanjRiverthatcoursesbetweenthe7000mpeaksotheHindukushtothesouthandthelotymountainsoajikistantothenorth.AlongthesouthbankothePanjRiveranditsuppertributary,theWakhanRiver,arenumerousWakhivillages.TevillagesbetweenIshkashimandQila-ePanjaaretermedLowerWakhan.Morethan5000moverticalreliecommandsthesouthernhorizonoLowerWakhan,wherethevalleyisasbroadas2km.TevillagesinUpperWakhanbetweenQila-ePanjaandSarhad-eBroghilliealongthemorenarrowbanksotheWakhanRiver,whichopenstoadramaticriverbasin3kmwideatSarhad-eBroghil.StreamsedbyprecipitousHindukushglacierscutacrosstheWakhanCorridorandowintothemainriver.Treemountainranges–theHindukush,KarakoramandPamir–convergeinWakhantoormwhatiscalledthePamirKnot.TeHindukushRange,whichormstheborderwithPakistan,has38summitshigherthan7000m,includingAghanistan’shighestpeakNoshaq(7492m).PermanentsnowblanketsWakhan’shighestpeaks.Tehigh,openvalleysbetweenthesethreemountainrangesormtheAghanPamir,knowninPersianastheBam-eDunya,orthe“roootheworld,”whichishometoKyrgyznomads.Highpassescalled
kotal
transectthemountainrangesandwereusedbyarmiesandancienttradecaravans.IntheAghanPamir,passes,althoughathighelevation,arerelativelyeasyorpeopletocross.TepassesacrossthemoreruggedHindukusharemoredicult.TekeyHindukushpassesare:BroghilPass(3882m)andDarwazaPass(4288m)toChitral;KhodargWerth(orKhoraBortPass)toIshkoman;andIrshadUween(4979m)andDilisangPass(5290m)toGojal.AlloWakhanisasemi-aridzone.IntheWakhanCorridor,agricultureisonlypossiblethroughirrigation,edbymeltwaterinthestreamsdescendingromthemountains.Apartromoccasionalclustersoshrubsorwillow,birchandothersmalltrees,thelandscapeislargelybarrenovegetation.Above3500m,thevalleyswidenontotheexpansiveAghanPamirwithitslushseasonalmeadows,peatysoil,andvividbluelakes.
THE LANDTHE MOTHER RIVER
TeAmuDaryaor“MotherRiver”isthePersiannameortheriverthatclassicalGreekgeographerscalledtheOxus.ItormsmuchoAghanistan’snorthernborderwithajikistanandUzbekistanandcoursesmorethan2400kmacrossCentralAsiatotheAralSea.TeAmuDarya,oneoAghanistan’sourmajorriversystems,hasitssourceintheicyheightsothePamirMountainsattheheadoWakhan’sWakhjirValley.JoinedbythestreamcomingromChaqmaqtinLakesouthoBozaiGumbaz,itbecomestheWakhanRiver,whichismetatQila-ePanjabythePamirRiverowingromZorkol.DownstreamoQila-ePanja,theriveriscalledtheAb-ePanja(PanjRiver)andowsthroughadeepgorgeormingtheborderbetweenAghanistan’sBadakhshanProvinceandajikistan.Finally,eastoKunduz,it’sjoinedbyajikistan’sVakshRiverandbecomestheAmuDaryaortheremainderoitscourseacrossCentralAsia.
The Oxus is a river whose headwaters,“tell of forgotten peoples and secrets of unknown lands, and are believed to have rocked the cradle of our race.”
Lord Curzon
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