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THE MASSACHUSETTSTOXICS USE REDUCTION INSTITUTE
University of Massachusetts • LowellOne University AvenueLowell, Massachusetts 01854-2881Telephone: (508) 934-3275FAX: (508) 934-3050
TOXICS USEREDUCTIONINSTITUTE
Training Curriculum foAlternative Clothes Cleaning 
 The Massachusetts Toxics UseReduction Institute
 
Contents
Module 1 Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
11.1Course Objectives . . . . . . . . . . .11.2What is Wet Cleaning . . . . . . . .21.3Who Should Take This Course? .21.4Why Do We Need a NewWay to Clean? . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31.5A Brief History oWet Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4
Module 2 Health, Safety and Environmental Regulations 
. . . . . . . .92.1What Are the Hazards? . . . . . . .92.1.1Acute and ChronicExposure . . . . . . . . . . . .92.1.2Exposure toWorkers and Others . . .102.1.3Environmental Effects .112.1.4Environmental Health andSafety in Wet Cleaning .122.2Who Makes the Rules? . . . . . .122.3What Rules Are Currentlyin Effect? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .132.3.1Occupational Safety andHealth Act . . . . . . . . . .142.3.1.1Permissible ExposureLimits (PEL) . . . . . . . . .142.3.2Resource Conservation andRecovery Act . . . . . . . .152.3.3Clean Air Act . . . . . . . .162.3.4Comprehensive Environ-mental Response, Compen-sation and Liability Act(CERCLA,1980) andSuperfund Amendmentsand Reauthorization Act(SARA, 1986) . . . . . . .162.3.5Sewer Or Septic Discharge. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .172.4What Are the PotentialLiabilities? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .18
Module 3 From Fiber to Garment 
. . . .233.1Fibers, Yarns and Fabrics . . . . .233.1.1What Is a Fiber? . . . . . .233.1.2Yarns . . . . . . . . . . . . . .253.1.3Fabric Types . . . . . . . .263.2The Effect of Cleaningon Fibers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .283.2.1Fiber Strength . . . . . . .283.2.2Elasticity andDimensional Stability . .293.2.3Absorbency and the Effectof Water On Fibers . . .303.2.4Effect of Chemicals . . .323.2.5Effect of Heat . . . . . . .353.3TheEffect of Cleaningon Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .363.3.1Shrinkage . . . . . . . . . . .363.3.2Colorfastness . . . . . . . .373.3.3Textile Finishes . . . . . .373.4Garment Construction . . . . . . .383.5How to Identify Fibers . . . . . . .39
Module 4 Soils, Odors, Stains and Separation 
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .454.1Soils, Odors and Stains . . . . . .464.1.1Soils . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .464.1.2Odors . . . . . . . . . . . . . .464.1.3Stains . . . . . . . . . . . . . .474.2Separating Soils, Odors and Stainsfrom Fabrics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .484.2.1Processes . . . . . . . . . . .484.2.2Chemical Agents . . . . .49
Module 5 Garment Cleaning Methods 
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .535.1Current and Alternative GarmentCleaning Methods . . . . . . . . . .535.1.1Dry Cleaning . . . . . . . .545.1.2Carbon Dioxide:Supercritical and Liquid545.1.3Ozone CleaningSystem . . . . . . . . . . . . .565.1.4Ultrasonic Cleaning . . .565.1.5Wet Cleaning . . . . . . . .575.2A Comparison of Dry Cleaningand Wet Cleaning Methods . . .575.2.1Preparation . . . . . . . . .585.2.2Washing and Drying . .585.2.3Finishing andAssembly . . . . . . . . . . .60
Module 6 Overview of Wet Cleaning 
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .636.1Front Counter . . . . . . . . . . . . .646.2Garment Measuring . . . . . . . . .656.3Sorting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
 
6.4Testing for Colorfastness . . . . .676.5Stain Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . .676.5.1Stain RemovalEquipment . . . . . . . . . .686.5.2Stain RemovalAgents . . . . . . . . . . . . .706.6Cleaning with Water . . . . . . . .706.6.1Wet CleaningMachine . . . . . . . . . . . .706.6.2Detergents . . . . . . . . . .716.6.3Know Your Water . . . .726.7Drying . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .736.8Finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .74
Module 7 Hands-On Wet Cleaning 
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .777.1Sorting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .777.2Stain Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . .787.3Wet Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . .787.4Drying . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .797.5Finishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .79
Module 8 Economics of Wet Cleaning 
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .818.1Understanding andFinding Costs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .818.1.1Capital Costs . . . . . . . .818.1.2Operating Costs . . . . . .828.1.3Intangible Costs . . . . . .828.2Converting From Dry to Wet . .838.2.1Environment Canada’sTest Conversion . . . . . .838.2.2The Greener CleanerDemonstration Shop . .848.3Identifying and Comparing Costsof Dry vs. Wet Cleaning . . . . . .85
Module 9 Available Wet Cleaning Equipment 
. . . . . . . . . . . . .959.1Wet Cleaning Machines . . . . . .959.2Dryers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .969.3Wet Cleaning Equipment Featuresand Specifications . . . . . . . . . .97
Module 10 Facility Function and Design 
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10110.1Adapting the Staff toWet Cleaning Procedures . . . .10110.2Designing a FunctionalFloor Plan . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .102
Module 11 Labeling Liability 
. . . . . . . .10511.1Proposed Changes inCare Labeling . . . . . . . . . . . . .10511.2The Current Situation . . . . . .106
Appendix A
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107Machine Manufacturers . . . . . . . . . .107Detergent Manufacturers . . . . . . . . . .108
Appendix B 
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Organizations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111Government Agencies . . . . . . . . . . . .112
Appendix C 
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113References . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
List of Figures 
Figure 3-1 Fiber Classifications . . . . . .24Figure 3-2 Fibers And Yarns . . . . . . . .25Figure 3-3 Woven Fabrics . . . . . . . . . .26Figure 3-4 Knits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27Figure 3-5 Fiber Strength . . . . . . . . . . .29Figure 3-6 Abrasion Resistance . . . . . .29Figure 3-7 Elasticity and DimensionalStability . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .31Figure 3-8 Absorbency . . . . . . . . . . . .31Figure 3-9 Effects of Bleaches . . . . . . .33Figure 3-10 Effects of Acids . . . . . . . .34Figure 3-11 Effects of Alkalies . . . . . . .34Figure 3-12 Effects of Organic Solvents35Figure 3-13 Fiber Identificationby Burning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41Figure 4-1 How Surfactants Work . . . .50Figure 5-1 Dry Clean Process . . . . . . .59Figure 5-2 Wet Clean Process . . . . . . .59Figure 6-1 Wet Clean Process Flow . . .64Figure 6-2 Recommended Sites forGarment Measurement . . . . . .65Figure 8-1 Cost ComparisonWorksheets (One-TimeInvestment Costs) . . . . . . . . .86-88Figure 8-2 Cost ComparisonWorksheets (AnnualOperating Costs) . . . . . . . . .89-94Figure 9-1 Summary of Wet CleaningMachine Features . . . . . . . . . . .98Figure 9-2 Summary of Wet CleaningDryer Features . . . . . . . . . . . . .99Figure 9-3 Summary of Wet CleanMachine Features . . . . . . . . . . .99Figure 9-4 Wet Clean DryerFeatures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .100
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