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Dolly Varden

Dolly Varden

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Published by nongsamrong
15'6" strip planked boat plans
15'6" strip planked boat plans

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Published by: nongsamrong on Sep 21, 2009
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11/19/2012

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Strip boat that
can be built in
two lengths.
By WESTON FARMER
BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
141
Craft Print Project No. 179
USE: Open utility outboard boat for fishing and generaluse on lakes and rivers with a variety of outboardengines.
LENGTH:
13' or
15' 6".
BEAM: 4'2".
DEPTH: 20½" amidship.
WEIGHT OF HULL: 175 lbs. CAPACITY: 4 persons.
CONSTRUCTION: Strip planking and steam bent frames,round bottom.SPEEDS: 1½-2 hp about 6-7 mph. 5 hp, alternate firing,
11
mph.
7 hp, 14
mph.COST: 13' hull $60. 15½' hull $65 (approx.).
AKERS will like the smooth lines of Dolly
Varden
that scoots along with any outboardin the under 7 hp class in choppy or smoothwater. Dolly is a strip boat fashioned like thehundreds of similar boats built by craftsmen of the old school, and still being used because stripconstruction turns out a tight, durable, cheap andeasy-to-build boat that has real water kindlinessand handling ability. About $60 will pay for
L
45-
45"
12" WL
SHEER LINE
6" WL
SET OF LINES TO INSIDE OF PLANKINGDOLLY VARDEN
#5
#4
#3
TRANSOM
12" BUTTOCK6" BUTTOCK
96"76"
#2
#1
OF KEEL
54"
32"
SHEER
12"1 WATERLINE
6" WATERLINE
STEM
SHEER
LINE
18" WL
12"WL
6" WL
0
MOLD FRAME #1
MOLD FRAME #2MOLD FRAME #3MOLD FRAME #4MOLD FRAME #5
TRANSOM & FRAMEx 3" CHEEK PIECES
x5 CHEEK PIECE
6" BU 12"
BU.
19¾"11"
4"
20½"2015¼"
19½"
17¼"3"33"3"18¼"
17"
2323¾"SL21¾"17¾"
24" SL
2219½"18"1917"131922SL20
1 7 "
2½"215"13¼"13"11½"1383¾"6 BU
12 BU
 
142
BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
materials to build either 13- or 15½-foot modeland if you can part with her, she'll market for
$225 to $350.
Building
Dolly Varden
is a good way to getacquainted with the blessing of steam bendingframes—long considered a bugaboo. Actually, asteam box is a cheap and effective "tool" andanyone who can boil oatmeal can make a steambox say "Uncle."Either the 13- or 15½-foot models will ridesafely on top of a car as you take off for yourfavorite fishing grounds. The 13-footer handleseasier on the ground, but the fifteen is better inthe water. There's only about $5 difference incosts—so take your choice and let's get started.Lay out the molds on either scab lumber orcast off ¼ in. plywood, according to Fig. 1. Themolds merely serve to guide the shape of thestrips. Since our keel is a straight line and thestealer or shutter planks which go onto the keelfirst determine the flow of the strips around themolds it is not strictly necessary to lay down
 Dolly's
lines.The molds can be made from the dimensionswith sufficient accuracy. Despite all you do, theplanking will not follow the molds exactly. Theidea is to plank your hull using the molds as aclose guide. In this 15½-ft. model, you'll findmold No. 1, mold No. 3 and the transom will behard against the planking much of the time, whilemolds Nos. 2, 4 and 5 merely guide the shape—that is, they maintain symmetry from side to side.With the molds done, attach them to a scab1x4 material which will reach to a convenientfloor joist in the ceiling above (if you build in abasement) or to rafters if in a garage. Erectsome stocks (short lengths of 2x4) spaced at2-foot intervals to raise the keel high enough forcomfortable working room. The stocks in myshop are tee'd to the floor, but ordinary 2x4posts, braced to a plank on the floor, will do.If you have a circular saw and a jointer, themill work necessary to cut and shape the stripplanking and frames will present no problem.Otherwise, take the cedar and oak to a sash anddoor factory or to a well equipped lumber yard,
and they will turn out the strips for you in a
couple of hours.Rip all the cedar boards to .625 x 6½ in. (Fig. 6).This will leave enough stock to get strong .437"planed strips. Rip up the 1x5 in. 16-ft. oak boards for frames into four ribbons a shy .875"wide, and re-saw these ribbons to divide the 1 in.face two ways (Fig. 8). Then run these stripsthrough the planer, and if possible, rout the edgesround. They'll handle better if routed, but it'snot strictly necessary.Now, if you go to a mill, and want a thoroughlyprofessional job of strip planking, I'd make a con-cession to costs and to the possibility of turningout that second boat for re-sale more easily byinvesting in a shaper cutting head. I took thisshaper head and two sets of blank knives to alocal tool works and had them ground to a ¾ in.
MATERIALS LIST—DOLLY VARDEN15½-foot modelNo. of
Pieces Size and Material Use
14 1 x 6" x 16'
rift
sawn
red
cedar
Planking
strips
1 2 x 2" x 14' white oak Keel
1 2 x 8" x 4' white oak Stem and forefoot2 1 x 12" x 4' mahogany Transom
2 x 6" x 16' white or red oak
(Should be wet or green) Frames
1 1 x 5" x 16' oak, mahogany or fir Wales and risers1 1" redwood, fir or spruce as needed Thwarts and breasthook
Note:For
13-ft.
model,
cut two
feet
from
strips,
keel
and
wales
indicated above, as explained in the text.
1
4"
60
48¼"
SEAT
x12
SEAT
x12
OAK KNEE
CEDAR FILLER BLOCKROW LOCK
 
8"
RISER FOR SEATS
x ½
SEAT
x12
31¼"HALF FRAMES
IN WAY OF STEM
SPACE BETWEEN
INWALE AND PLANKS
AT STEM
GUNWALE FEATHERSPLANKING
½"
FILLER
SEAT
RABBETED STEM
10"
SEAT RISER
10"
KEELGUNWALEINWALE
DETAIL OF TRANSOM KNEE
HALF PLAN AND PROFILE VIEWS
½"x
GUNWALE
CUT OFF STEM
AFTER
PLANKING
FILLER
BRESTHOOK ½" PLYWOOD
FASTEN UNDER INWALES
STEM
RISER
COPPER CLOUT NAILS
EVERY OTHER STRAKE
SHUTTER
KEEL
STEM DIMENSIONS
2½"
4½"
10"
6½"
6"6"½"
INWALES ½" x
PLANKING
STEM RABBET
6"
8"
13½"
35"
6"
2"
LINE OF
KEEL TOP
3½"1½"
1¾" OAK
5"
3"
 
BOAT BUILDER'S HANDBOOK
143
radius to produce a hollow and round edge toeach strip plank. Hollow and round stripping isoptional, but it pays off. I used it because thecommercial builders use it and the nails centerbetter, their heads are hidden without setting andyou can use casein glue on the strips to get aperfectly tight boat that will not leak after longauto trips. However, the original builders of the
 Dolly Varden
strip boat did not bother with hol-low-and-round strips. They beveled their stripson a jointer when bevels were called for. On partof the hull, such as across the bottom and pastthe turn of the bilge up along the topsides, hol-low and round strip planks won't help much inshaping the boat. But at the turn of the bilges,you won't have to stop and bevel the strips andwork goes faster with hollow and round stripplanking. I used the hollow and round. But asI say, you pays your money and you takes your
choice—
Use the shaper head, as shown in Fig. 7 tocut hollows and rounds on the strip planks androunds on the frames. These operations completethe mill work. On our boat this work was donein a small cabinet factory in 2½ hours at a cost
of $4.
The white oak keel is rabbetted to just theright depth for the stealer or shutter plank, andshould be cut smooth for a close fit. Set up thekeel on the stocks (Fig.5). Assemble the tran-som out of mahogany,
buttressed by white oak 
cheek pieces (Fig. 9).Glue and screw fastenthe cheek pieces of .625 or¾ in. oak to the transom.The bevel on the bottomedge of the transom is 20degrees, fading aroundthe turn of the bilge to10 degrees top sides. If you cut this on a bandsaw, set the table to 20degrees, and cut the bot-tom halfway up the turnof the bilge. Then setthe table to 10 degrees,to cut the top sides andyou can then fair off the bend by hand.Erect this transom on the keel, using one No.16 x 3 in. screw from the keel into the cheek piece, counterdrilled about 1 in. and plugged.Clamp or bolt the transom to the cant stock atthe stern end of the stocks.Fig. 2 shows the stem dimensions for the 15½-ft. boat. To build the stem for the 13-ft. boat,eliminate the lower horn end and land the kneeright on the keel, 2 ft. shorter. Mark out therabbet and take a light chisel cut along the rab-bet line. The rabbet itself is best cut as you pro-ceed with the planking, as the lay of each strip
Molds set up and failed in with light battens.
KEEL
STRIPS FOLLOW
H
ULL SHAPESHINGLE NAIL
7d NAIL
SHUTTER ORSTEALERSTRIPS FOLLOW STEALER.1ST STRIP
PLANKING ASSEMBLY
DIMENSIONS OF SHUTTER OR
STEALER PLANKS - MAKE 2
24"
24"
24"
24"
15"
3¾
4
4¼"
4"
1
4x4 POST
TO RAFTERSCUT STEMAFTER PLANKING
32"
-
54"
76"96"
2x4s TO
RAFTERS
#4
#3
#2
#1
HULL IS PLANKEDCUT RABBET AS
20"
4"
7¼"
24"24"
24"
24"
24"
3 5 "
 
2"
6"
6½"
23
8"
6"
NAILSTEMPORARY2"x2" KEEL
1x4
½"RABBET
SHEER LINE
S T O C K
TRANSOMCHEEK PIECESNO KNEE NECESSARY
4
#18
FH
2x4
2x4 STOCK
24"
24-
18"
80°
#5
¼" PLYWOOD MOLDS
45"
ELEVATION OF MOLD FRAME SET-UP
C
ANT PIECE
 
2x4 TO
RAFTER
45"
½"
2"

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