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Free Electric Power Windmill

Free Electric Power Windmill

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Published by Jim
This article shows you how to make a windmill with a DC auto generator. Make a windmill and capture some free power.
This article shows you how to make a windmill with a DC auto generator. Make a windmill and capture some free power.

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Published by: Jim on Sep 22, 2009
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01/15/2014

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Free
E le c tr ic
P o w e r
Here the 10-ft, impeller described belowhas been mounted for belt drive. Noteposition of jackshaft on the baseboard.
Y
OUR vacation cottage or outlying farmbuildings can be lighted by electricityeven though you may be far from a powerline. The wind will gladly do this job foryou—if you know how to harness it. Theunit described will turn the trick for youwith little manual effort and even lessmonetary expense.Most people think of gales and hurri-canes when the wind is mentioned as asource of power. Nothing could be moremisleading, because there is vast energyeven from a gentle breeze.Anyone with ordinary mechanical skillcan build this machine. And cutting the im-peller blades will teach you more practicalaerodynamics than you could dig out of an armful of books. (If the term
"impeller"
confuses you, a propeller driven by thewind becomes an impeller.)Without digging too deeply into theory,it is well to know a little about the giantwhich we are about to harness. It is seldomrealized that the force which the wind ex-erts is composed of two distinct parts: apressure and a suction. Thus a sailboatwhich seems to be pushed along by thewind is actually deriving most of its pro-pulsion from the suction on the lee sideof the sail. A roof in the path of a galeis lifted up, not pushed down. Conse-quently, the blades of the impeller mustbe so shaped that this suction force can aidthem in turning.For the baseboard get a piece of oak orsimilar hardwood, 5-1/2 in wide, 50 in longand 1-1/4 in thick. Draw a centerline on thewide face of the board and do your layoutfrom this guide. From a point 9 in. fromthe head and down to the end of the boardthe sides are tapered down to a final widthof 
1-1/2
in.Drill a 3/4-in hole 26 in. from the taperedend and saw a 1/2-in slot to meet this hole.This slot is for the tail vane. For 'the gen-erator cradle a piece of wood 6 in. longand 1-1/4 in thick is fastened to the full endwidth of the baseboard. Shape the cradleto match contour of generator used.The tail vane is a piece of exterior-gradeplywood 30 in. long, 20 in. wide and 1/2 in.thick with the leading edge rounded andthe trailing edge notched as shown.The commutator (or collector rings) usedto connect the swinging generator with feed
wires is essential [continued on next page]
 
Free Electric Power
for proper operation. To make it, get a pieceof 2-in. brass pipe 3 in. long, a piece of woodwith 2-in.-square and 4 in. long, and an 18in. length of 1 in. galvanized iron pipe threadedat one end. Trim the wooden block into acylinder that fits snugly into the brass pipe.Drill a 1-1/4-in. hole lengthwise through thiscylinder true to the centerline.Soap the threaded end of the galvanizedpipe and drive it through the hole in the wooduntil it extends far enough in the floor flange.To engage the two insulated collector rings,cut two 1/2-in. sections from the brass pipeand connect these to encompass the woodencylinder. Fill the space with Plastic Wood andtrim flush. Drill holes through each brass ringand the galvanized pipe to take the insulatedwires from the generator. Solder the ends of these wires in the brass holes and file the out-side surface smooth.The brush holder is fastened to the edgeof the 1-1/4-in. galvanized floor flange. Thisfloor flange is the top end of the 1-1/4-in. gal-vanized pipe which serves as the mast. Itsupper surface should be ground smooth toease the generator's swing into the wind.The auto generator, available at any autograveyard, should preferably be one from anyof the large, older cars, since its output capa-bilities will be higher and its price lower.The jackshaft assembly and its strap ironsupports are now made. A bronze bearing issoldered into each end of a 7-1/2-in. length of 3/4-in. brass pipe. Align the bearings with theshaft before soldering. The brass pipe acts asan oil reservoir and a small hole is drilledso that it may be filled.The hub plate to hold the three blades is an11-in. circle of 1-3/4-in. exterior-grade ply-wood, or maple. Center it accurately on theend of the jackshaft and fasten securely witha flange and stove bolts. Cut a vee for a beltinto the hub plate edge. Adjust the height of the jackshaft above the base to take a standardautomobile fan belt connecting hub plate andgenerator pulley.The impeller of this generator is ten feet indiameter and has three blades. It will makeabout 200 revolutions per minute in an eight-mile-per-hour wind.To assemble the impeller, obtain threepieces of straight, knot-free, well-seasonedwood, each 60 in. long, 6 in. wide and 1-1/4 in.thick. Lay them on the bench side by side,with grain running away from you and mark the top of each piece "face" and bottom"back." Draw a squared line across each boardat six-inch intervals and mark each line withits distance from the preceding line, as 6 in.,12 in. and so on. To make your task easier, cutcardboard templates corresponding to degreesof slope that will fit the finished blades at theproper points. "Cut the face of the blade first. This is a flatsurface but of continuously changing anglewith respect to the original face of the board.The trailing edge is always 1/16 in. thick. Thesloping face intersects the top of the boardup to the 30 in. line and new leading edge iscut along this distance.To cut the blades clamp the hub of the bladeflat to your bench with the tip extendingstraight out. Stand to the right of the bladeand draw a sharp drawknife toward you untilthe approximate contours are reached. Fastenthe three blades to the hub plate with carriagebolts using three for each blade.For the impeller to run without vibrationit must be carefully balanced and the jack-shaft (if it runs true and free) can be usedas a balancing rig. Remove small shavingsfrom the heavy blade until the impeller comesto rest at a different point each time it is givena light spin.With the entire wind-electric generator as-sembled, including the impeller, find thecenter of balance of the baseboard and attachthe 1-in. floor flange above the commutator atthis point. Center of balance is that pointabout which the entire unit balances itself fore and aft.To protect all wooden parts against weather,soak generously with linseed oil or coat withoutdoor paint.The 1-1/4-in. pipe should be well braced.If guy wires are used, make sure that theydo not hinder the rotating blades.Mount the generator in place by slippingthe 18-in. length of 1 in. pipe below the com-mutator into the mast. Brushes will then makecontact with rings of the commutator.The feed wires to the unit are attached tothe two- spring brass brushes with the wiringexactly like that in your car. The cutout (todisconnect the generator from the batterywhen it is not charging) is the standard auto-mobile type and may be left mounted on thegenerator or may be placed near the battery.You will also need an ammeter and a pro-tective fuse. Mount them on a plywood panel6x8 in. A small six or eight-volt radio panelbulb will show at a glance when the generatoris charging.If you use a six-volt generator a standardautomobile storage battery will be enough tostore juice during calm periods. For highervoltage systems several units of auto batteries
may be connected in series. [END]

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