Welcome to Scribd. Sign in or start your free trial to enjoy unlimited e-books, audiobooks & documents.Find out more
Standard view
Full view
of .
Look up keyword
Like this
0 of .
Results for:
No results containing your search query
P. 1
Star Lite Sailboat

Star Lite Sailboat

|Views: 3,341|Likes:
Published by Jim
Star-Lite is a 27.5 foot sail/cruise boat that you can build. This boat can be sailed on the ocean or cruised up a river. All you need to do it build it.
Star-Lite is a 27.5 foot sail/cruise boat that you can build. This boat can be sailed on the ocean or cruised up a river. All you need to do it build it.

More info:

Published by: Jim on Sep 22, 2009
Copyright:Attribution Non-commercial


Read on Scribd mobile: iPhone, iPad and Android.
download as PDF, TXT or read online from Scribd
See more
See less





Build this motor sailer and take your own dream cruise downthe Mississippi and into the Gulf
PORTING an overall length of 27.5 feet,
accommodates four persons in6'-4" bunks with enough space for a privatehead and a working galley. You can live on thisboat as we did on our trip down OL' Man Missis-sippi (see preceding article) and during 18 weeksof sailing in the Gulf of Mexico.
is a proven design, improved slight-ly from the first ship built
out of MichiganCity, Indiana) and tested in Lake Michigan, theMississippi River and the Gulf. She is a stiff andable sailer, good for anything from an afternoon'ssail to a 3-month stop-and-go trip around tropicalisles. Every nook provides storage space forclothing, wet weather gear and food supplies. A30-gal. tank under the aft cockpit stores freshwater. Interior space and accommodations areclose to those found in the usual 34-ft. sailer be-cause of the short forward overhang.Since Star-Lite is primarily a sailing ship,you'll need only a small (and economical) auxili-ary engine—not to exceed 100 cu. in. displace-
Craft Print Project No. 188
ment. Tabu uses a UniversalTwin, 12
and I used aMichigan Marine, SeniorTwin developing 15
Anything over 20hp would be wasted, as hersailing lines can't efficientlyuse more power. A slow-turn-ing engine will prove themost economical and depend-able over the years. Both
and Tabu were builtwith laminated plywood planking that doesn'tcreak in rough weather and is easy to keepdry.Building a big boat like
is an ambi-tious undertaking, and, unless you have builtseveral boats before or have access to frequentprofessional advice, you'll find a book on the de-tails of boat building helpful. The wood you usefor framing will depend on where you live—white oak in the North, pine in the South and firin the West. Actually white oak is the materialI've found best over the years for strength anddurability, and that's what I used in building my
Regardless of the kind of wood youuse, she'll last up to five times as long by using
seasoned lumber, fitting joints closely and treatingall underwater surfaces with
and Kuhls
3-Way Preservative
for out-of-water surfaces.Before starting actual con-struction, it's absolutely nec-essary to lay out the linesfull size on a floor largeenough to work freely. Incase your floor space isrough or concrete, lay down some of the ply-wood sheets you'll use later in planking andnail them together enough to form a platformand keep them from shifting. Unroll red rosinpaper (from lumber yard) and lay out the linesfrom the dimensions of Fig. 1. You'll waste muchtime later and possibly valuable lumber unlessyou start from a full-size, accurate layout of thelines.
Getting Started
To get started building the frames, make uppatterns on red rosin paper for the frames atall stations from #1 to #9. Since the layoutindicates the lines to the outside of planking,you can pick off the al-lowances for beveling.Plainly mark this bevelingallowance on each member.Frames are built up fromtwo bottom members' andtwo side members directlyon the patterns. At the bot-tom, join the two pieceswith a floor gusset and atthe joints between bottomand side pieces, with chinegusset (Fig. 8). Use 1/4 x3-1/2-in. galv. carriage boltsat the floor gusset andchine gusset joints and
leave side frames aninch higher than deck line for later trimming.Attach temporary 2 x 4'sacross the tops to pre-vent spreading. Mark anexact centerline on these2x4 crosspieces, so youcan align the frameslater. Accuracy herewill pay off later.Transom can be builtof two layers of 5/8-in.plywood glued togetheror an outer covering of 1-1/2 x 8-in. oak or mahog-any planks screwfastened to an inside oak frame(Fig. 8). Rough out notches in the frames forchines, keel and clamps; you'll fit them moreclosely during final assembly.The keel assembly, like all big ships, is thefirst piece of 
back-bone to be laiddown. Using the line on top of the ballast andbottom of the #1 piece as a level, build up theassembly on its side over full-size plans. Theshaft log is built in two pieces, #5 & #6 (Fig. 5),and joined with wood alignment splines (Fig. 4)to eliminate the long drilling for the drive shaft.Only the horn timber (#8, Fig. 5) need be boredwith brace and bit in line with the shaft alleybetween parts #5 and #6. The keelson extendsaft only to the shaft log, and cheek pieces forattaching planking are fastened to the sides of the shaft log (Fig. 5) back to the transom. Whenthe keel assembly pieces are fitted, coat all con-tacting surfaces with Kuhls
clamp to-gether and join with bolts or drift pins. Driftpins are driven in lead holes drilled Me in. under-size and bolts are driven in a distance equal totheir diameter.With the keel assembly built up, take off apattern for casting the keel ballast (Fig. 6).You'll need about 750 pounds of concrete, iron orlead spread over the 10-ft. 8-in. length with sometrimming ballast inside the hull to be installedlater. If you plan to have the ballast cast in afoundry, allow for shrinkage of approximately1/8 in. per foot. Lead ballast is the best, but iscostly unless you can melt down junk pipe orused batteries. Attach the ballast and the keelshoe to the keel assembly with 5/8 x 20 or 21-in.bolts midway between frame locations (Fig. 5).One of the most important steps in gettingstarted right is to set up the keel and ballast as-sembly level with the way
will ride inthe water. The top of ballast or bottom of #1piece should be leveled and plumbed. All frameswill be plumbed vertical from this line which is10 in. above and parallel with the base referenceline. Block up this keel assembly so it will re-main fixed in position as it is the first step inbuilding the backbone. Accurate fitting andassembling of later parts depend on how carefullyyou plumb and level this keel assembly.Stem parts are next sawn to shape and fitted,

Activity (57)

You've already reviewed this. Edit your review.
Mario liked this
Mario liked this
Mario liked this
1 thousand reads
1 hundred reads
Lasiê liked this
Nabil Tanjawi liked this
ccosta_26 liked this
William Schroeder liked this
Jeff liked this

You're Reading a Free Preview

/*********** DO NOT ALTER ANYTHING BELOW THIS LINE ! ************/ var s_code=s.t();if(s_code)document.write(s_code)//-->