Ropes and Knots (Rev 3)

THE PPTSB MARINER’S GUIDE
ROPES,
KNOTS.
HITCHES
&
SPLICES .
Explanations of Rope fibERs and constructions

How to tie Knots and Hitches
How to splice Braided and Twisted Ropes
How to make things with Ropes
MEMBER
Beginners - What are KNOTS and SPLICES? Page 1
What are KNOTS and SPLICES?

As a general term, 'knot' includes all configurations made in a cord or line (or other material).
However, when naming knots, the term knot is used in a more specific way. The knotting
'family' is best explained by the following diagrams: INTERNATIONAL GUILD OF KNOT TYERS (IGKT)
KNOTS
The rope is tied to itself
STOPPER KNOTS BINDING KNOTS LOOP KNOTS
Making a bulky part in Joining the ends of a FIXED LOOPS SLIP LOOPS
a rope to stop it single rope around an A single loop or Knots that slide,
passing through an object or objects. The more than one closing the loop
object or to stop the knot 'bears upon' the loop that does not under strain or
strands unlaying object close under strain. allowing it to be
opened.
Whippings, lashings and

seizing are special types
of binding knot.
Thumb knot Reef knot Bowline Running
Figure of eight Surgeon's knot Artillery loop Bowline
knot Packer's knot Figure of 8 Honda knot
Oysterman's knot Constrictor knot loop Handcuff knot
Fireman's Jar sling
Heaving line Whippings for binding chair knot Hangman's
knots also make rope ends: Alpine knot
weight at the end Admiralty whipping Butterfly knot
of a rope: West Country
Barrel knot whipping
Monkey's fist Palm & needle
Loaded Turk's whipping
Head
Lashings for binding
spars:
Square/Japanese
Diagonal/Filipino
Sheer lashing
Tripod l
Seizing for binding

ropes:
http://www.igkt.net/beginners/what.html 07/23/2004 10:24:32 AM
Flat seizing
Round seizing
BENDS...join
HITCHES...tie to something else SHORTENINGS SPLICES
ends
Joining the ends MIDDLE END HITCHES Taking up the Working with
of two ropes. The HITCHES Attaching the end of slack in a rope. the
knot must hold, Attaching the a rope to an object - a constituent
even when jerked middle of a rope ring, a post, a bollard, parts of the
in mid-air. Unlike to an object when a peg or even rope -
a binding knot, a there is strain on another rope. disturbing
bend does not both sides of the the structure
have to bear knot. and
upon an object intertwining
the strands.
Sheet bend Clove hitch Cat's paw Sheepshank Eye

Carrick Marlinspike Lark's Head Chain splice
bend hitch Timber hitch shortening Short
Fishermans Becket hitch Bellringer's splice
'knot' Various other Round turn and knot Long
Hunter's hitches are two half hitches splice
bend adapted as Anchor hitch Cut
'crossing (Fisherman's splice
For different hitches'Blackwall 'bend') Back
thicknesses: from other knots: Buntline hitch splice
Racking Mooring Chain
bend hitch To a hook: splice
Bowline Constrictor Blackwall Tucked
bend knot hitch splice
Quick-release:

Highwayman's
hitch
Lengthwise pull:
Rolling hitch
Increase tension:
Waggoner's
hitch
(Harvester's
hitch)
©Tim Field 1999
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ROPE,KNOTS,HITCHES & SPLICES
MYGAZEE ‘99
INTRODUCTION
This reference guide is designed to give the riggers, C.A.L.M Buoy

operators and others who is interested with ropework a general
knowledge of ropes, knots, hitches and splices. Those which are
essential, and those which have become accepted as best suited for
a particular purpose.
Man, from his most primitive beginning, has joined vines, creepers
and other flexible materials to make rope. Through trial and error
over the centuries a great number of knots, hitches, splices, lashings
and other fastenings have evolved. This guide contains those that
are most used and most useful to everyday and in some cases
industrial use.
Modern rope is a product of science and technology. It combines

great strength with light-weight flexibility to provide greater versatility
and ease of handling than any of the natural fiber ropes.
The best known synthetic fiber ropes are constructed of Nylon,

Polyester, Polypropylene, Polyethylene and Kevelar etc. The
advantages of these ropes are that they are strong; not damaged by
oil, grease or gasoline; are rot-proof and, in the case of nylon, are
able to take greater shock loads due to its elasticity. Polypropylene
and polyethylene ropes have the ability to float on the surface of
water. Polyester ropes provide great strength with an absolute
minimum amount of stretch.
ROPE CONSTRUCTIONS
BRAID-ON-BRAID:
Also known as Twin Braid and Double Braid. Actually two braided
ropes combined into one rope. A braided core is covered with a
braided jacket to produce a strong, handsome, easy handling rope.
This rope is spliceable and, in most instances, is stronger than
twisted rope of the same material and diameter. It is available in
various synthetic fibers. Our 15 inch (381 mm) diameter Hawser
system for the C.A.L.M buoy uses this particular type of nylon rope.
Special floats are used to keep them floating.
DIAMOND BRAID:
Also known as Hollow Braid and Maypole Braid. This rope is
constructed of 8, 12 or 16 strands with a hollow center. An
RESTRICTED CIRCULATION
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outstanding characteristic of this construction is its ability to be

spliced in just seconds. It is available in various synthetic fibers. Our
polypropylene Pick-up rope for the C.A.L.M buoy is normally of this
construction.
SOLID BRAID:
A very firm, round rope that works extremely well and blocks and
pulleys. Its name refers to the special lock-stitch construction of the
rope. Solid Braid rope will not unravel when cut or accidentally
broken. It is available in various synthetic and cotton fibers.
LAID:
Also known as Twisted rope. Just about all laid rope is 3-strand
construction. It is spliceable and is available in virtually every type of
rope fiber.
ROPE FIBERS
NYLON:
The strongest fiber rope manufactured. Due to its elasticity, nylon
can absorb sudden shock loads that would break ropes of other
fibers. It has very good resistance to abrasion and will last four to five
times longer than natural fiber ropes. Nylon rope is rot proof and not
damaged by oils, gasoline, grease, marine growth or most
chemicals. Manufactured by Puritan Mills, Inc, Wellington Ropes,
British ropes, OLIVERA etc.
GOLD BRAID:
A gold colored Braid-On-Braid nylon rope, consisting of a braided
jacket over a braided core. Combines excellent performance,
spliceability and handsome appearance. Manufactured by Puritan
Mills, Inc, Wellington Ropes, British ropes, OLIVERA etc.
POLYESTER:
Polyester is very strong, but not quite as strong as nylon rope. The
difference between the two.ropes is that polyester does not have the
stretch and elasticity of nylon. Other than this, the characteristics of
the two fibers are practicallythe same. Manufactured by Puritan Mills,
Inc, Wellington Ropes, British ropes OLIVERA etc.
PIMM SHEET:
A specially constructed rope designed specifically for sailing. It is
available in either polyester or cotton. Polyester PIMM Sheet is far
superior to cotton due to its great strength, minimum stretch,
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abrasion resistance and durability. it is Manufactured by Puritan

Mills, Inc, Wellington Ropes, British ropes OLIVERA etc.
TENSTRON:
Combines tradition with progress. Tenstron is constructed from olefin
fiber with the rich, golden tan color of manila rope. It has all the
advantages of the modern synthetics, plus the rope color that many
people like. It is rot proof, water proof and not damaged by oil,
gasoline or most chemicals. In addition, Tenstron floats on the
surface of water. Manufactured by Puritan Mills, Inc, Wellington
Ropes, British ropes OLIVERA etc.
POLYPROPYLENE:
A lightweight, strong rope that is extensively used in many different
ways. It is a floating rope and is rot proof and unaffected by water,
oil, gasoline or most chemicals. Polypropylene rope is available in
monofilament fiber, which is smooth surfaced, or multifilament fiber,
which has a somewhat velvety appearance and feel. Manufactured
by Puritan Mills, Inc,Wellington Ropes, British ropes, OLIVERA etc.
PRO.LINE:
Puritan Mills, Inc. registered trade name for multifilament
polypropylene rope. Available in either solid braid or laid (twisted)
construction. Manufactured by Puritan Mills, Inc,Wellington Ropes,
POLYETHYLENE:
One of the best known synthetic fiber ropes. A floating rope
somewhat like polypropylene except that it is just a little lighter. Also,
polyethylene’s handling characteristics are a little different than
polypropylene. It is not quite as strong, size for size, as
polypropylene. Manufactured by Puritan Mills, Inc,Wellington Ropes,
COTTON:
Much cotton rope and cord is used today. Most of it in the form of
sash cord, clothesline, venetian blind cord and other uses. For
handling quality, cotton is hard to beat. It is soft and pliable, and easy
on the hands. Being a natural fiber, it does not have the strength or
durability of synthetic fiber ropes.
MANILA:
The best known natural fiber rope. At one time it was the best
available but it is steadily losing ground to the synthetic fiber ropes.
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Manila must be handled and stored with care as any dampness will
cause it to rot and, of course, materially damage its effectiveness.
SISAL:
A rope that’s used primarily where strength and durability are not
important. Sisal is a natural fiber that deteriorates rapidly when
exposed to weather.
HOW TO MAKE YOUR ROPE LAST

LONGER
AVOID OVERLOADING ...

Safe working strength for any rope is 1/5th it’s breaking strength.
Ignoring this safety factor is dangerous. If your rope is old or worn,
make allowances for safety.
AVOID ABRASION ...

Outer and inner rope fibers contribute equally to the strength of your
rope. When worn, your rope is naturally weakened. Where it is
necessary for a rope to rub over an object protect it with chafing
gear, such as canvas wrapped and tied around the rope.
AVOID SUDDEN STRAIN ...

Rope that is strong enough under a steady strain can be broken with
a sudden jerk. Care when working with rope is extremely important.
AVOID KINKS ...

When rope is repeatedly turned or twisted in one direction, it is
certain that kinks will develop, unless twists are repeatedly thrown in,
or out of rope, Pulling a kink through a restricted space such as a
tackle block will seriously damage
the rope fibers.
AVOID SHARP ANGLES...

Sharp bends greatly affect the strenth of a rope. Any sharp angle is a
weak spot. Pad it for safety, and even then, Be Careful!
AVOID WRONG REEVING ...

Always use the right size rope for the sheaves in the block or pulley.
Too small sheaves cause added friction and rope wear.
REVERSE ENDS ...

Prolonged use, or wear, of one part of a rope will naturally, decrease
it’s effectiveness at that point. Occasionally reverse your rope,
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end-for-end, to distribute the wear more evenly. A good example is

an anchor line aboard a boat.
AVOID CHEMICALS ...

Virtually all synthetic fiber ropes are immune to damage from oil,
gasoline, paint and most chemicals. To be on the safe side,
however, keep your rope free of any type chemical. Natural fiber
ropes are, of course, severely damaged by exposure to chemicals.
KEEP ROPE CLEAN ...

Dirt on the surface and imbedded in rope acts as an abrasive on
fibers. When rope becomes dirty wash it thoroughly with clean water.
Be sure to dry natural fiber ropes before storing.
AVOID IMPROPER STORAGE...

Synthetic fiber ropes require no special storing conditions other than
keeping them out of sunlight and out of extremely hot rooms. The
ultra-violet rays of sunlight has a weakening effect on rope that is
exposed for prolonged periods of time. Natural fiber ropes must of
course, be kept dry or they will rot in a very short time.
ROPE TERMINOLOGY
BIGHT: A loop made in any part of a rope.
BITTER END: The end of a rope opposite the end in use.
BLOCK: Similar to a pulley. Used to give mechanical advantage

when lifting or pulling heavy objects.
END: The end of a rope in use. (Opposite the bitter end).
FATHOM: A unit of measurement. 1 fathom = 6 feet (1.8288 meter)
FALL: The standing part of the rope coming from the fixed block on
a block-and-tackle, on which strain is applied.
LAY: The way a twisted rope is constructed. Lay is either right-hand

(Z-lay) or left-hand (S-lay).
LINE: Rope used aboard boats and ships is called line.
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PULLEY: A device consisting of a sheave mounted in a block or

wall, which is used to achieve mechanical advantage when lifting or
pulling heavy objects.
ROUND TURN: Two turns of rope around the object to which it is

being fastened.
SHEAVE: Pronounced “shiv”. The grooved wheel in a block or pulley

upon which the rope rides when in use.
STANDING PART: The main part of the rope.
TURN: One turn of a rope around the object to which it is being

fastened.
KNOTS
OVERHAND KNOT
A knot made in a rope to prevent it from pulling through your hand or
a hole, is called a stopper knot. The simplest of these knots has
many names, but is best known as the Overhand knot. It is tied by
making an overhand loop. Then passing the end under and up
through the loop... Tighten.
FIGURE of 8 KNOT
The Figure 8 is an ideal basic knot form, used as a hand-hold at the
end of a rope, or at any point between the ends... used at the end of
a line to prevent a sheet or line from slipping through a block or
pulley. This knot is tied by making an overhand loop, then bringing
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the free end over the standing part and back under and through the
loop.
STEVEDORE’S KNOT
Somewhat similar to the Figure 8 knot, the Stevedore’s knot is made
with two turns around the rope, as illustrated. Inserting a stick in the
loop before tightening permits this knot to be easily untied.
SURGEON’S KNOT
Frequently used when tying packages with twine, to keep the first tie
from slipping before the knot is completed. To tie... With one end in
hand, take three turns around the other end. Pull tight. Pass one end
over and under the other end. Draw up tight and the knot is
complete.
SQUARE ( REEF) KNOT

Originally used by seamen in reefing and furling sails aboard the old
sailing ships. It is unsafe, however, forfasteningtwo ropes
together...as it unties easily when either of the protruding ends is
jerked. The square knot is used in first-aid for bandage tying. To tie
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this knot, pass the left end over and under the right end. Curve what
is now the left end to the right, under and over the right end. Pull
tight.
BEWARE OF THE THIEF AND GRANNY KNOTS!

TheThief and Granny knots, at first glance, look like the square knot
but they are to be avoided. Study the illustrations closely to see the
difference.
THIEF KNOT
The Thief knot is not entirely trustworthy. It gets its name from the
days of the old sailing ships, when sailors lived out of sea bags. If a
man suspected that a shipmate was rummaging through his seabag
when he wasn’t around, he would tie it closed with a thief knot,
knowing that a sailor would invariably tie a square knot when tying
the bag after searching through it.
GRANNY KNOT
The Granny knot is usually the result of an improperly tied square
knot. It may hold . .. It may not. This knot is not too reliable.
SHEET BEND
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An efficient knot for joining two ropes, especially hen they are of
different diameters. ake a loop in the end of one rope, (the larger
diameter rope if they are of different sizes). Run the end of the other
rope through the loop, behind its standing part.. .then down through
the loop again.Tighten, and that’s all there is to it. Make sure the
ends of both ropes are on the same side of the knot.
The Double Sheet Bend—made by running the rope end twice
behind the standing part, then through the loop—is recommended for
tying synthetic fiber lines together.
CARRICK BEND
The Carrick Bend is an extremely strong knot suitable for all
thicknesses of line. However, it is generally used for larger ropes. It
will not jam, even when wet. To tie this knot, make a loop in the end
of one rope as illustrated. Then thread the other rope end around the
loop, using an over-an-under sequence. At no point does the rope
pass through a loop, and the ends finish on opposite sides as
illustrated.
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BOWLINE
The most useful knot you can know. The Bowline forms a loop that
will not slip or jam and is easily untied. It is used for mooring,
hoisting, joining two ropes, and for fastening a rope to a ring or post.
To tie... Form a small loop in the rope. Run the end up through the
loop, behind the standing part, then back down through the loop. Pull
tight.
RUNNING BOWLINE
Used when a noose is needed to tighten a rope aro’jnd something. A
regular Bowline is tied, with its loop around the standing part of the
rope.
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DOUBLE BOWLINE
Can be used as a seat sling, and is tied exactly in the same manner
as the ordinary Bowline. The difference being that you pass the end
through the loop twice, making two lower loops. The end is then
passed behind the standing part and down through the first loop
again, as in the ordinary Bowline. Tighten as illustrated. The
right-hand loop goes under the arms, and the left-hand loop forms
the seat.
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BOWLINE ON BIGHT
A knot used to accommodate special loads or for holding an
unconcious, or injured person. The tying of this knot is accomplished
by taking a long bight (loop) of rope, making an overhand loop, then
running the large loop up through the small loop. Flip the loop-end
forward and around the large ioops, then up behind the standing part
as shown. Pull right side of loop to tighten. For holding a person ...
place one leg through each large loop and the loop-end under the
arms and around the back, as illustrated.
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SPANISH BOWLINE
Commonly used in slinging a ladder. The Spanish Bowline is tied by
forming three loops in any central section of your rope, as illustrated.
Flip the large center loop up, to encircle the smaller loops. Reach
down through the small loops, grasp each side of the large loop, and
pull it through the small loops simultaneously.
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FISHERMAN’S (ANCHOR) BEND

When a rope is to be used as an anchor rode, it must be attached
securely because you cannot inspect it in use. Taking a turn around
a ring (or post) then running the rope end through the turn, between
the turn and the ring. Two half hitches complete the knot. When this
knot has been pulled tight and is wet, it is very difficult to untie.
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MILLER’S KNOT
For tying bags and sacks. Take two turns around the neck of the
bag, the first turn over the standing part, the second turn under the
standing part, as shown. Draw up tight.
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FISHERMAN’S KNOT
A good knot for joining small rope, twine and fishing line. One end is
passed through an overhand knot in the other line, then knotted
around it. Pull knots tightly together to complete knot.
MATHEW WALKER KNOT

To tie the Mathew Walker knot, sometimes referred to as the Crown
knot, unlay the strands at the end of your rope for a short distance.
Then begin tying off as illustrated. Draw up tight and trim ends.
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HITCHES
HALF HITCH
The most basic of knot forms. Used primarily in the formation of
other knots, the Half Hitch can be used to secure an object for a right
angle pull. When strain is constant this hitch is fairly reliable. Tie as
Illustrated.
ROUND TURN and 2 HALF HITCHES

Used for making fast the end of a rope to post or ring. Old time
seamen said, “It will hold the devil.” Take two complete turns around
the post or ring, then take two half hitches on the standing part as
shown.
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CLOVE HITCH
One of the fastest and easiest hitches to make. It is used to fasten a
rope to a stake or post. Make it by taking two turns around the post;
the first, under the standing part; the second, also under the standing
part but in the opposite direction.
WARNING: Never use the Clove Hitch where it needs to be
released in a hurry. This hitch binds extremely tight and, in the case
of a wet rope, may be virtually impossible to free quickly.
BLACKWALL HITCH
Used only for light loads and, even then, with caution. The Blackwall
Hitch holds under constant strain, but will free itself if the load is
slackened. It simply consists of looping a rope around a hook with
the end under the standing part.
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TIMBER HITCH
A fast, convenient method of attaching a rope to a log for dragging or
hoisting. The Timber Hitch is tied by taking a turn around the log,
then a half hitch on the standing part. Then twist the end around
itself at least three times, as illustrated. A half hitch around the log is
desirable when dragging.
SHEEPSHANK
You may find it necessary sometime to shorten, or take the load off a
weak spot in the rope. When there is no time to do it right, the
Sheepshank is the answer. Lay out two side-by-side loops as shown,
then take a half hitch around each loop with the standing part. The
Sheepshank holds pretty well under a steady strain, but remember..,
it’s for temporary use only.
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MIDSHIPMAN’S HITCH
Used generally for mooring and life-saving. This knot is tied by first
taking a half hitch around the standing part, then a turn around the
standing part, within the loop. Pass the end through the loop, then
take a half hitch around the standing part, outside the loop. The loop
can be made larger or smaller by sliding the hitch along the standing
part. It will hold under strain, in any position.
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COW HITCH
A simple and quick way to hitch a rope to a post. Double the end of
your rope to form an open loop. Reach through the loop and pull
both the end and the standing part back through the loop. Drop the
double ioop over a post and tighten.
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HALTER HITCH
The Halter Hitch is used for securing an animal, or anything, to a ring
or post. Tie exactly as illustrated. Draw loop tight against post or ring
when knot is as shown in Step 2. Then insert end or rope through
small loop to prevent knot failure.
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CATSPAW
Used for hoisting heavy loads. It is jam-proof and efficient. Tie it by
holding the rope with both hands, well apart. Turn your hands away
from you. Bring together the two loops and drop over the hook.
LASHINGS
SQUARE LASHING
Used to secure two posts, poles or bars that cross and touch each
other. Begin with a Clove Hitch around the upright pole just below the
horizontal pole. Twist the end and standing part of the rope tightly
together and pass the rope up over the horizontal pole and behind
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the upright pole. Now bring it forward and down around the horizontal
pole, then back behind the upright pole, laying it just above the Clove
Hitch. Repeat this procedure four times, laying each turn outside the
previous turn on the horizontal pole, and inside each turn on the
upright pole. Finish with three or four over-and-under passes around
the lashing as illustrated and complete with a Clove Hitch on the
horizontal pole, pulled tight next to the lashing.
DIAGONAL LASHING
Used to pull together and secure two posts, poles or bars that cross
but do not touch each other. Begin by making a Timber Hitch
diagonally around both poles where they cross and tighten. Follow
this with three or four turns at right angle to the first turns. Two
over-and-under passes are made a round the lashing as illustrated in
Step 2. Finish by making a Clove Hitch around the nearest post.
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SHEAR LASHING
Used to secure two parallel poles, and also for rigging “shear legs” to
support rope bridges, cables, etc. First make a Clove Hitch around
one pole. Twist the end and standing part of the rope tightly together
then take seven or eight turns around both poles, not too tight, laying
each turn next to the previous one. Now take three or four turns
around the first turns, between the poles. These last turns must be
verytight to pull the lashing firmly around the poles. Finish with a
Clove Hitch around the other pole. “Shear legs” are formed by
making a Shear Lashing at the pivot point of two crossing poles, then
spreading the poles apart at the base.
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TRIPOD LASHING
Place three poles on the ground, parallel to each other and with the
end of one between the ends of the other two. First make a Clove
Hitch around the end of one pole, then take seven or eight loose
turns around all three poles. Next take two or three loose turns
around the first turns, between the poles. Finish with a Clove Hitch
around the center pole. Raise tripod to standing position and adjust
legs so they are spaced an equal distance apart.
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SPLICING
SHORT SPLICE
1. For end-to-end splicing of two ropes. First, unlay both ropes
for a short distance and bring them together so that the main bodies
of the ropes fit snugly and the unlaid strands mesh; alternating a
strand of one with a strand of the other. Sealing the strand-ends of
synthetic fiber ropes with a flame or hot knife will prevent their
unravelling. It is helpful to temporarily tie the strands of one rope to
the body of the other rope.
2. Now, tuck one of the unlaid strands over and under a strand
of the opposite rope, working against the twist. Take the unlaid
strand, next to the strand just tucked,and tuck it over and under the
next strand in the opposite rope. Do the same thing with the
remaining unlaid strand. Now, take one more tuck with each strand.
3. Remove the temporary tie and make two tucks with the other
three strands. You now have the strands of each rope tucked two
times through the strands of the other rope. Now go back and make
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at least two more tucks with each of the six strands.. . four additional
tucks are recommended for synthetic ropes.
4. RoIl the splice under your foot, or a board and clip off ends of
protruding strands.
CAUTION: Do not clip ends too close to splice.
LONG SPLICE
The Long splice is not quite as strong as the Short splice, but it
permits a rope to run freely through a block or pulley.
1. To make a Long splice, unlay the end of each rope about 14

turns and bring them together so that the main bodies of the ropes fit
snugly and the unlaid strands mesh; alternating a strand of one with
a strand of the other. Sealing strand-ends of synthetic fiber ropes
with a flame or hot knife will prevent their unravelling.
2. Starting with any opposite pair, unlay one strand and replace it
with it’s opposite strand from the other rope. Do the same thing with
another pair of strands, going in the opposite direction. You now
have two long opposing strands in the center, at the original meeting
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point of the two ropes, and a pair of long and short opposing strands
on each side of center.
3. Now tie each pair of opposing strands tightly with an overhand

knot, tuck each strand twice back into the rope, going against the
twist. Roll the splice under your foot or a board, clip protruding
strand-ends and your splice is complete.
CROWN SPLICE
When you want a rope end to be a little larger in diameter than the
rope, and have a finished appearance, the Crown Splice is the
answer.
1. Unlay the end of your rope, (sealing the strand ends of

synthetic fiber rope will prevent them from unravelling) and lay the
right-hand strand across the other two as illustrated.
2. Then tuck the left-hand strand over the first strand, then back
over the right-hand strand.
3. Pull all strands snug, then tuck them in sequence, over and
under the strands in the main body of the rope, as in a short splice.
Roll the splice under your foot or with a board, and clip protruding
ends; not too close to the rope.
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EYE SPLICE
The Eye Splice may be made as a loop of any size, or it can be
made tight around a metal thimble to prevent chafing of the rope
fibers.
1. To begin your Eye Splice unlay the strands for a short distance
and double back to form a loop of the desired size, with the unlaid
strands laying across the twist of the rope.
Sealing strand-ends of synthetic fiber rope will prevent them from

unravelling.
Tuck the center unlaid strand under any one of the strands in the
main body of the rope, going against the twist.
2. The next unlaid strand goes over the strand under which the
center unlaid strand is tucked, and is tucked under the next strand in
the rope.
3. Tuck the last unlaid strand under the remaining strand in the rope,
making sure the tuck is against the twist.
Page 31 of 40
MYGAZEE ‘99
4. Pull each strand snugly up to the main body of the rope then tuck
them, in sequence, over and under the strands in the rope. While it is
traditional to use 4 tucks, at least 6 tucks are recommended for
synthetic fiber ropes.
Roll the splice under your foot or a board, and trim protruding strand
ends, not too closely to rope. Your splice is complete.
HOW TO WHIP A ROPE END
Whipping is used primarily to prevent the end of twisted rope from

unravelling. It is done with twine; preferrably nylon twine because it is
rot-proof.
First, lay a loop of twine along side the rope, with open end of the
loop toward the end of the rope. Then, beginning a short distance
from the rope end, wind the twine tightly around both the rope and
the twine loop. The last turn of the winding is inserted through the
Page 32 of 40
MYGAZEE ‘99
loop-end. Next; holding the rope in one hand, pull the twine end at
the end of the rope until the loop-end is about mid-way in the
whipping. Clip both twine ends and the job is complete. The whipping
should be at least as long as the rope diameter.
HOW TO MAKE ROPE TO A CLEAT
In “Belaying” or making fast to a cleat, take the standing part of the

rope and make a turn around the stem of the cleat (away from the
direction of strain), under the cleat horn, then up over it’s center (Fig.
1).
Take a half-hitch over the opposite cleat horn if rope strain is under
light strain, (Fig. 2). Under heavy strain, make one or two turns figure
eight fashion over cleat horns before taking the half hitch, (Fig. 3).
Page 33 of 40
MYGAZEE ‘99
HOW TO RIG SLINGS
Page 34 of 40
MYGAZEE ‘99
A method used for centuries, and still the most satisfactory solution
to many varied hoisting, hauling and pulling operations. It is
important to remember that the angle of pull on a sling has a great
deal to do with its safety and efficiency. Wide angles of pull increase
the strain on the rope.
When working with a sling be aware that the strain on the rope is
equal to the weight of the object being hoisted, only when the object
is being lifted with a straight pull. At a 120-degree angle of pull, the
strain on the rope is double that of the object being lifted. At a
150-degree angle the strain is almost four times as great as the
weight of the object being lifted.
Illustrated above are several types of the most commonly used

slings. All are tied with knots and hitches explained in this guide.
Page 35 of 40
MYGAZEE ‘99
HOW TO RIG A BLOCK AND TACKLE
A block and tackle takes much of the work out of moving heavy
objects. The mechanical advantage is one less than the number or
ropes between the
blocks.
Terminology:
Sheaves (pronounced “shivs”) - The grooved wheels upon which the

rope rides in a block.
Page 36 of 40
MYGAZEE ‘99
Becket - A bracket on a block, opposite it’s hook end, for fastening

the rope end to the block.
Fall block - The fixed block.
Reeve - The procedure of rigging a block and tackle.
The diagrams show, in a simplified manner, the easiest way to reeve

a block and tackle. Start with the rope end that is to be fastened to
the becket. This eliminates the necessity of pulling the entire rope
length through the blocks. Reeve the rope end first over sheave No.
1; then No. 2; and so on ... ending up with the end eye-spliced to the
becket.
Double & Single: The becket is always on the single block. The
single block is always the movable block. The double block is always
the fall block.
Double & Double: The becket is always on the fall block.
HOW TO MAKE A CLIMBING and SAFETY LINE
Page 37 of 40
MYGAZEE ‘99
A rope with a series of hand-holds is perfect for climbing, and when it

is a floating rope. . . Like polypropylene or polyethylene.., for trailing
from an anchored boat to provide a safety line for swimmers.
It’s easy to make one. First, make a loop in the rope as illustrated,
and flip it forward and slightly to the right. Pull the lower ioop under
the rope and up through the top ioop, as shown. Complete the knot
by pulling the loop sharply to the left.
HOW TO MAKE A LEAD LINE
You will want a line that does not stretch so that measurements will
be accurate. The best to use is twisted polyester or 100% polyester
braided line such as PIMM Sheet or Braid-on-Braid, manufactured by
Wellington Ropes, British Ropes etc. Select the length and diameter
best suited to the “feel” you like and the depth of the water where
most of your cruising is done. Attach the line to the sounding lead
with an eye-splice if you’re using twisted or Braid-on-Braid line; with
an anchor bend if you’re using PIMM Sheet Lash the end of the line
securely to the standing part when using an anchor bend.
Measurements are made in fathoms (1 fathom is 6 feet or 1.8288

meter). “Marks” are indicated by attaching the markers listed below.
“Deeps” are indicated by a mark of black paint or, preferably, a
seizing of black twine around the line. Measuring from the base of
the lead, mark as follows:
1 fathom (Deep 1) - Black twine.
2 fathoms (Mark 2) - 2 strips of leather.
4 fathoms (Deep 4) - Black twine.
5 fathoms (Mark 5) - White rag.
7 fathoms (Mark 7) - Red rag.
10 fathoms (Mark 10) - Strip of leather with a hole in it.
Page 38 of 40
MYGAZEE ‘99

15 fathoms (Mark 15) - White rag.
17 fathoms (Mark 17) - Red rag.
20 fathoms (Mark 20) - A line with 2 knots in it.
HOW TO MAKE A LARIAT (LASSO)
The first step in making your Lariat is to put a Crown knot or Mathew
Walker knot in both ends of the rope. This prevents the rope end
from unravelling and from slipping through the Honda knot used to
make the noose.
To make the Honda knot, tie a simple overhand knot in your Lariat.
Pass the end through the opposite side of the overhand knot from
which it protrudes, as illustrated. Pull overhand knot tight, leaving a
small loop. Run the other end of your rope through the honda knot to
form the noose. Your Lariat is now finished.
Page 39 of 40
Beginners - Monkey's Fist Page 1
Monkey's Fist
Make three turns round the Start making turns passing outside Complete the three
hand. the middle of the first three turns. second turns.
Make three more turns passing inside the Tighten up the knot round a soft core, e.g. a ball
first set of turns and outside the second of ropeyarn. Splice or whip the end to the
set. standing part
NOTE 1:
Avoid the temptation to weight the core with a hard, heavy object. This can convert a useful
knot into a potentially lethal missile. Any self-respecting wharfie will take out his knife and cut
off any such knot.
NOTE 2:
The British Admiralty Manual of Seamanship illustrates a slightly different method whereby
the working end comes out alongside the standing part
http://www.igkt.net/beginners/monkeys-fist.html 07/23/2004 10:29:02 AM

Beginners - Sea Cadet Knots Page 1
Sea Cadet Knots

The U.K. Sea Cadet Corps requires that all candidates for promotion must have a basic
grounding in seamanship. These knots are the basic requirement (Seamanship Third Class).
A cadet pursuing a Seamanship Specialisation needs to know more.
The table shows each knot and gives a brief note on the way the knot is made and its
application on ships. The diagrams show the knots tied loosely so that their construction is
clear.
Overhand Knot
Used to start the racking of a hawser
Figure of Eight Knot

For stopping a rope unreeving through a block or to temporarily
stop a rope from fraying.
Reef Knot
Comprises two successive overhand knots.
To secure furled canvas (because of the ease with which it
may be spilled). Also used for finishing off the racking on a
turned up hawser.
WARNING: The reef knot should never be used as a bend
to join two ropes that will be under load.
Round Turn and two Half Hitches
A round turn made round the spar and two half hitches
made round the standing part of the line.
Securing the head rope of a ship's boat to the ring of a buoy.
A very useful general purpose hitch to a spar or ring.
http://www.igkt.net/beginners/sea-cadet-knots.html 07/23/2004 10:26:16 AM

Rolling Hitch
Two round turns and one half hitch made round the spar.
Securing ropes that have lateral pull e.g. heaving line to the
picking up rope, gun line on the messenger when returning
gear after a refuelling at sea (RAS), fastening a line to a
spar.
Clove Hitch
Two similar half hitches put round the object to which it is to
make fast.
Securing items that hang vertically, e.g. paint kettles/
fenders attached to guardrail stanchions, fastening a rope to
a spar, securing ratlines to the shrouds.
Sheet Bend
Pass the end of one rope through the bight of a second
rope, around both parts of the bight, and under its own
standing part.
Securing the boat's painter to the Jacob's Ladder on a
boom, for joining two ropes the same or similar sizes, in
bending small sheets to the clews of sails, in bending flags
to halyards where snap hooks are not fitted.

Double Sheet Bend

Pass the end of the bending line through the bight of the
standing line, twice around it and through its own part,
giving added security.
For securing the boat's painter to the lizard on a boom,
joining ropes together when they are not too large,
especially when they are of different sizes.
Timber Hitch
Make a turn around a spar, around the standing part, and
then several around its own part.
Add an additional half turn round the spar when the pull on
the spar is lateral.
A quick way of securing a rope temporarily around a spar or
timber. Much used in handling cargo.
Bowline
Pass the end through a loop on the standing part, round the
standing part and back through the loop.
Securing the heaving line to the eye of the hawser, for tying
around a person's waist whilst using a lifeline , e.g. when
aloft, or when making a temporary eye in a rope.
It does not slip or jam and can be cast loose instantly, as the
tension is released

IGKT: Beginners - Sea Cadet Knots Page 4
Fisherman's Bend
Take a round turn with the end coming under the standing
part under both turns, with two half hitches on the standing
part. For security the end should be seized.
Securing a boat's anchor cable to the anchor, making a
buoyrope fast to a buoy .The greater the pull on the rope,
the more tightly the parts of the bend are jammed against
the anchor ring.
Heaving Line Knot

Provides a temporary weight to the end of a heaving line, as a
quick alternative to the Monkey's Fist.

Beginners - Six Knot Challenge Page 1
Six Knot Challenge

The Six Knot Challenge is to tie six elementary knots against the clock. Guild members often
hold this as a fun event at shows. It proves popular with all ages, and provides an opportunity
for hands-on learning for children as young as seven.
The world record, set by Clinton Bailey Sr., is an astonishing 8.1 seconds. Under 20 seconds
is pretty good - under 15 is very good indeed
.
Reef Knot
Sheet Bend Round Turn and two Half Hitches
Sheepshank
Clove Hitch
Bowline
Back to Previous Page

© I.G.K.T, 2002. All rights reserved. Technical problems - contact the
Webmistress
http://www.igkt.net/beginners/six-knot-challenge.html 07/23/2004 10:27:13 AM

Beginners - Trick Sennit Page 1
Trick Sennit
1. Make two cuts in a leather strap to form three equal width strips joined at each end.
2. Pass one end of the strip under the centre strip and over the two edge strips from right
to left.
3. Pass the same end under the two edge strips and over the centre strip from right to left.
4. Untwist the strips as necessary to flatten out the sennit.
5. Repeat to form a longer sennit
http://www.igkt.net/beginners/trick-sennit.html 07/23/2004 10:30:27 AM

MYGAZEE ‘99
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Ropes and Knots (Rev 3)

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THE PPTSB MARINER’S GUIDE

Explanations of Rope fibERs and constructions

What are KNOTS and SPLICES?

Whippings, lashings and

Seizing for binding

Sheet bend Clove hitch Cat's paw Sheepshank Eye

http://www.igkt.net/beginners/what.html 07/23/2004 10:24:32 AM

©Tim Field 1999

Back to Previous Page

http://www.igkt.net/beginners/what.html 07/23/2004 10:24:32 AM

This reference guide is designed to give the riggers, C.A.L.M Buoy

Modern rope is a product of science and technology. It combines

The best known synthetic fiber ropes are constructed of Nylon,

outstanding characteristic of this construction is its ability to be

abrasion resistance and durability. it is Manufactured by Puritan

HOW TO MAKE YOUR ROPE LAST

AVOID OVERLOADING ...

AVOID ABRASION ...

AVOID SUDDEN STRAIN ...

AVOID KINKS ...

AVOID SHARP ANGLES...

AVOID WRONG REEVING ...

REVERSE ENDS ...

end-for-end, to distribute the wear more evenly. A good example is

AVOID CHEMICALS ...

KEEP ROPE CLEAN ...

AVOID IMPROPER STORAGE...

BIGHT: A loop made in any part of a rope.

BITTER END: The end of a rope opposite the end in use.

BLOCK: Similar to a pulley. Used to give mechanical advantage

END: The end of a rope in use. (Opposite the bitter end).

FATHOM: A unit of measurement. 1 fathom = 6 feet (1.8288 meter)

LAY: The way a twisted rope is constructed. Lay is either right-hand

LINE: Rope used aboard boats and ships is called line.

PULLEY: A device consisting of a sheave mounted in a block or

ROUND TURN: Two turns of rope around the object to which it is

SHEAVE: Pronounced “shiv”. The grooved wheel in a block or pulley

STANDING PART: The main part of the rope.

TURN: One turn of a rope around the object to which it is being

SQUARE ( REEF) KNOT

BEWARE OF THE THIEF AND GRANNY KNOTS!

FISHERMAN’S (ANCHOR) BEND

MATHEW WALKER KNOT

ROUND TURN and 2 HALF HITCHES

1. To make a Long splice, unlay the end of each rope about 14

3. Now tie each pair of opposing strands tightly with an overhand

1. Unlay the end of your rope, (sealing the strand ends of

Sealing strand-ends of synthetic fiber rope will prevent them from

HOW TO WHIP A ROPE END

Whipping is used primarily to prevent the end of twisted rope from

HOW TO MAKE ROPE TO A CLEAT

In “Belaying” or making fast to a cleat, take the standing part of the

HOW TO RIG SLINGS

Illustrated above are several types of the most commonly used

HOW TO RIG A BLOCK AND TACKLE

Sheaves (pronounced “shivs”) - The grooved wheels upon which the

Becket - A bracket on a block, opposite it’s hook end, for fastening

Fall block - The fixed block.

Reeve - The procedure of rigging a block and tackle.

The diagrams show, in a simplified manner, the easiest way to reeve

Double & Double: The becket is always on the fall block.

HOW TO MAKE A CLIMBING and SAFETY LINE

A rope with a series of hand-holds is perfect for climbing, and when it